Intek engine work part 1 - Compression release repair
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- parts listed below
Compression release repair on a 17.5 hp Briggs and stratton Intek. applies to most Intek engines.
Part 2 here: • Briggs and Stratton In...
Parts used:
Camshaft - B&S #793880 amzn.to/2LvQUw8
Sump gasket (standard thickness) - B&S #697110 amzn.to/2DYc2EP
An absolute brilliant video. Thank you. I wasted a Sunday afternoon chasing my tale with this issue and your video gave me the solution to the problem. I did the head gasket on it last year so I doubt the valve clearance has changed that much so my money is on my engine having the same broken parts in it as yours did.
Thank you from Ireland
Thanks for the video. I have been putting up with a bad compression release for years. Your video has given me the confidence that I can do this repair. I pulled the engine yesterday and using this as my winter project.
You should have fixed the compression release problem as soon as you discovered it. Those little parts were floating around inside the engine and ruining other parts. I wouldn't be surprised if you found other parts that need to be replaced now!
Thanks SO much for posting this video; I followed most of your ideas and the repair was a complete success. Here's a tip for others: to determine the compression release was NOT working, I loosened the spark plug 1/4 turn. That was enough to start the engine (less compression) and prove what the problem was before tearing down the engine. I replaced the battery & starter along the way, before I knew it was the compression release that had broken--very poor design. The new camshaft, new spark plug and a valve adjustment made the mower run like new. I have several hundred hard hours on my 19 HP, this was a pretty inexpensive repair (parts about $40). Video helped me have confidence to start the job!
Would you update the life of your new camshaft. Even on the Briggs and Stratton Amazon account there are reviews are not even getting 100 hours on the new camshaft, before the relief is back resting in the bottom of the pan.
@@kramnull8962 I did the repair last year at the beginning of mowing season. I have a second mower, but I have used the Craftsman mower a lot with no problems. I was wondering if I should pay more for the B&S part, but I didn't--I ordered a Chinese part. The design is really bad. My engine would not start at all--I had to make the repair.
18:11 - FYI - you can remove those three bolts holding the oil pump cover on and remove the oil pump gear and shaft before putting the sump on - that way there is no need to worry about orientation. And then just gently wiggling on the crankshaft should get the sump to slide in and seat on the gasket.Then put the oil pump back together.
It may take a few minutes longer but saves banging on the sump.
( And it may be even quicker if you have to struggle with the alignment for a while)
Have same engine. My compression release mechanism failed just like yours. It's really an easy job to perform this repair. For me, I just waited until mowing season was over to make the repair, that way a could focus on repairing it properly and really get my engine sorted out completely. Thanks for sharing!
The only issue with waiting is the shrapnel bouncing around inside your engine.
Thanks for the Info Man!!
I just got an older Craftsman Tractor I have been cleaning it up for a test start and noticed that it was different from my other experiences as it was blowing back through the Intake during the compression stroke while I was turning it Over by hand. I didn't know that these have a Compression Release built in.
Tomorrow I will adjust the values before I test it.
I would say that it hasn't been stated in years because when It arrived at my place I noticed that the Grill covering on the Fan - Flywheel was Packed with Mouse Nesting.
This Tractor makes 5 Yard Tractors in my collection. I even have one John Deere that I have been turning into another Rat Rod Tractor. I swapped out the Transaxle with a Honda TRX 125 axle.
Probably the most comical thing is that I don't even have a Yard at my place, I just like to Tinker around with things.
Again Thank you for the Video!!!!!
Thanks, We successfully adjust the valves on an 18.5 (003-5 Intake, 005-7 Exhaust)
However, it was odd that the starter was not able to turn the engine before the adjustment, then purred like seven kittens after? You pointed out the job of the compression release. Now it makes sense. Thanks again!
I did my intek today 4000 and adjusted the valves. Started right up!
What is the correct valve clearance? I'm having the same problem with my 4000.
25:21 starts rotating crack to check valve movement (you may want to play at slow speed)
at 25:28 you should see the little bump from the compression release.
The bump (small open/shut) occurs just shortly after the major exhaust valve movement completes/closes
Excellent video. One thing that would have improved it was if you had shown the compression release "bump" in the valve movement after the repair.
I just pulled the sump on my 17.5 and guess what? I found the same little pieces from the cam shaft. I was about to give up until I found this video. Thanks for your help. Now to find a cam shaft at a decent price.
Listing one on eBay tomorrow if still interested *mint
Thanks so much for taking your time making this excellent coverage,any negative commenters keep them to yourself and appreciate the knowledge you have gained!! Kind regards TW canadas west ,
Thanks for the instructions as I am working on an Intek engine right now in my shop and I got to the point of getting the sump off..but didn't know where to look after that..there is no debris so I am betting my return spring has come loose..will get back out in shop in the morning and pull camshaft and find out..thanks again !
Thanks for the part numbers, really helps speed the job up!
Lay the motor on its cowl, will make it easier to work on. And if you align both marks on crank and cam you will be able to pull out cam with no effort.
Always remove the oil pump before you put the sump on. It is a million times easier.i
But then that's one more thing to remove and reinstall.
pfun41 agreed,only thing different I would of done was drain the oil before removing the engine,but no biggie!
them motors love blowing head gaskets
11:41 Well explained, I finally understood how it works, Thanks from Latvia.
got a 12,5 bs engine on my mower,same problem, just cant crank past the compression stroke.ill check valve clearence but im sure that decompression thing is broken on mine too.Ive been dreading this job but after seeing this video Im mentally prepeared :)
Drop the oil pump shaft In after cover install and don’t force it, work the seal on shaft
Q how do you adjust the intake with a compression release valve different from one without? Another mechanic said the intake stroke has to clear the CRV when setting the intake valve. How can you tell if the CRV has cleared on the intake at TDC when making an adjustment to the intake valve? Thanks
Super video.
You may realize this with hind sight being 20/20 but draining the oil should probably be step #1
I do it on the bench because it's easier than dragging the jack around, lifting the mower, sticking the pan under there and getting oil all over.
I suppose this means I'm going to be seeing how many thousand hours the remains of the pressure release is going to sit in the bottom before causing problems.
So..just replaced the STARTER and RELAY. Been surfing the net and RUclips trying to find the ANSWER as to why my Briggs won’t crank.And here it is. ACR valve! But not prepared to pull the motor down yet. So might go with removing the air cleaner and blocking the intake so to starve the compression cycle…
Great video..I like you descriptions and explanations. I have one given to me by my son-in-law doing the same thing..I need the instruction video on adjustment of valves to try first..
Just set the valve lash to .oo6 on exhaust and if issue persists the problem is the compression release
You didn't show a close up on the timing marks. Is the crankshaft mark where the keyway is? These engines have two marks on the crankshaft gear.
I like your videos.
If it fails to turn over just park it and replace camshaft Asap
link to video to get the engine to run with a broken Compression Release?
You just seal off the intake with your hand or a piece of rubber
this eventually causes a vacuum build on the intake side which
naturally lowers the compression and the engine will begin to turn over faster and faster.
Then just take the seal (hand or rubber mat) away and it will have the turning speed enough to fire up.
It's a bit of an art, so don't expect to do it first try. You make need to bump the starter (i.e. on.off switch) a few times to get the vacuum to build strong enough.
Replace the aluminum one with steal. It won't hurt any thing.I have been working on mowers for 60 years.
Can you please tell me how I can be sure that my compression release mechanism is not working, I changed battery & starter, set valves clearence
@@dansofi turn key off reach under the motor turn over by hand in the correct direction if it gets hard to turn over at the compression stroke the compression release has failed also during electric start if it stalls during start or it puffs or back fires thru carburetor NOT MUFFLER it has failed . It's not a hard repair other them the drive pulley they can be HORRIBLE to get off. A lot of the times you will destroy them. Not expensive just a pain. Recommend replacing shaft seal while your down there 😁
@@ronaldbrown9638 Thank you sir for your advice,yes when I turn with hand it get hard & difficult at compression stroke & with battery start to it stop at compression stroke but with New battery it sometime complete the compression stroke & start up-- So I need to change the cam with compression release. waiting for weather to get batter Thanks again for your help.
What is the compression release part number and where can I get one? Great video! I learned a lot.Thanks for sharing!
I find it is easier for me to feel the bumb than seeing it, I just place finger on rocker and turn engine
quick question, while doing this repair, i went to change the oil seal on the crank shaft in the sump cover and noticed there was a sort of O-ring in there also, it seems to be a sort of a "spring" like ring not made of rubber. one was not included with the new seal P/N 690589 (#943 on the parts drawings on line) is this thing part of the original seal that came off or is it not needed? i dint see it anywhere listed on any of the drawings. do you know the part im talking about? BTW i did this fix in about an hour and this video was amazingly helpful. thanks!
That's probably the spring for the old seal.
I think it is... looking at the new seal now it does have the spring in it. Thanks!!
I hope you changed the Oil Filter.
I have 18 and a half horsepower won't turn over the compression stroke what is the valve series I want to set the valves adjust them
Can you just replace the relief mechanism on this Intek and not the whole cam, or does it take special tools beyond common folks ability? Do they sell the mechanism separate for this motor? I know some motors you can just replace the mechanism pretty cheap. I have a 17.5 hp. like this, and one day it had too much compression to crank. I can jump start it with a jumper charger or strong car battery and it runs fine. I will check the valve rocker clearance first, but pretty sure it will be the pressure relief.
They don't sell the mechanism but it doesn't require special tools. Ive robbed the mechanism off damaged cams in the past.
It’s only 38 bucks with both followers and gasket.
Appreciate the video. Learned a lot about the compression release. One thing though, are you sure what you identify as the "governor" isn't actually the oil slinger? Just look at its location. Its purpose is to sling oil up to the moving parts. Nothing about it will affect the rpm of the engine. 😎
The slinger and governor are one unit. The weights are on the opposite side of the gear.
Hey thanks, it helped me out big time....
Just to add a note, because it's not clear in the video - when lining up the camshaft to the crankshaft, there is a dot on the crankshaft and a dot on the camshaft. However, on the crankshaft, there's also an arrow on one of the teeth - DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LINE UP THE CAMSHAFT WITH THE ARROW (you won't be able to anyway, without turning them both). I had to look this up elsewhere because I was attempting to line it up with the arrow and it wasn't dropping in like in the video. Not sure why one of the crank teeth has this arrow, and the dot is hard to find, but wipe it off good and it's there.
Can you just leave the compression release off and just cover the intake to reduce compression to start the mower?
Very good job thang you
Great!!!
Thanks man
The compression release works on the exhaust valve NOT the intake valve
B&S Intek engines have it on the intake.
If its on the exhaust lobe it opens during the compression stroke. Same thing.
Friends don’t give friends a mowers with a single cylinder Intek engine on it.🤦🏼♂️
Hey pardner. Think I have the exact same issue. Replaced the starter and battery and gapped the valves.. still not able to turn over.. mine is the 20hp intek OHV Briggs one a 2006 ariens.. it should still be the exact same part right?
Great video , very informative ! The lighting sucks 😕
U do not have to change the compression relief valve.turn engine alittle past compression stroke by hand,use a piece of rubber to cover air intake ,then crank and remove rubber .5 second later as u crank it...once I now the sound it becomes easy
All but the potential parts sitting in the sump
You applied assembly lubrication, rather than trust engine oil will cover all parts sufficiently, once the engine starts. Is that really an issue with relatively low RPM engines?
You don't want metal on metal contact without lubrication, at all.
Can anyone tell me about the comp.release on a powerhouse generator. 124 cm
What causes compression spring failure mostly? Is it dirty oil sludge or valves just need adjustment? Thanks bro got a 2008 LA-115 268 hours never adjusted the valves then my head gasket blow. Put on new head gasket adjusted valves tuned it up new oil & air filter. Now it starts up easy no choke or smoke & oil consumption like before.
Usually the spring breaks, its a common issue with these.
@@pfun41 on mine, the plastic piece locking the pin inside the weight broke allowing the pin to slide back and forth.
Great vid man. Hey im strugging with this issue, adjusted the valves, didnt help, pulled out cam to check compression release, it was fine. Still have the issue. Piston moves fine with plug out. What am i missing? any help would be appreciated.
Is the spring on the compression release on the cam broken? It may not be immediately obvious.
Or you just probably need to adjust the valves again make sure you adjust 1/4 of an inch past tdc sometimes it takes afew times to get it right
Did you ever resolve your issue? I'm having the same problem...
i have adjusted and adjusted the vales even to the point of not closing properly and still only turns over slow not enough to start
Open your Engine, put your Engine at "Dead Center" and then double check your Camshaft. Look at the "Valves", if they are just slightly damaged, it will not open/closed correctly since alignment is gone due to the "teeth/tooth" on Camshaft maybe be broken or jumped. NOTE: I recently have that issued and I had to get a new Camshaft and further exam, that is what I found out.
Just so you know the way you set up your engine rockers to adjust the valves is not really the right way it could result in bent push-rods. Its supposed to be 1/4" from TDC then you can set the gaps and when you go to put on the sump plate if you remove that small pump cover from the bottom it will slide on every time. This is just a little constructive addition to your great skills and to this great video. Good Job man I know it was published a while ago but I enjoyed your video and I will pass it on to someone I know who needs to watch it. Thanks Techy
I've never heard of setting them with it 1/4" past TDC. I guess to avoid the compression release? Either way I've only seen bent push rods on the V twins when the valve guide moves or when some idiot adjusts valves without a clue how to do it (that happened, bend the pushrod and rocker holder). I know about the sump plate. I've had people question why I don't take all the accessories off when I do this, and the answer is time and effort. Everything I take off has to be put back on. If it doesn't have to come off I just leave it since It doesn't hurt anything. I could remove that plate but then I have to reinstall and reseal it later, I'd rather leave it together and risk having to realign the cam once or twice. Just more efficient that way.
@@pfun41 I just replaced the push rods on a John Deere 19.5hp today the mechanic at John Deere set the valves wrong its a clean engine 173hrs on it it looks like you could eat off the engine. I watched the video on the Briggs & Stratton website like 2 years ago and it tells you to set them 1/4" after TDC. I just wasn't sure how much play you would have setting them the way you were setting them. I find TDC then I use a wooden dowel to make the mark & move it the 1/4" & shes ready to adjust. But hey as Long as it sounds good and isn't making any noises the way you adjust it hey your good to go. Hey you have a great day!
Intex has lots of Head problems sometimes
I may be doing this soon. Besides draining the oil first, do you have more advice? Are any gaskets, seals or special tools needed?
Just the sump gasket and camshaft
Hi! How are you? From Argentina, I ask you a question, I have to adjust the valves of a Briggs And Stratton 313777-0163-e5 engine, do you know what is the measure of the feeler gauge?
thank you !
.003"-.005" Intake .005" -.007" exhaust
excellente vidéo, dommage que ce ne soit pas en français, mais elle va quand même bien me servir car j'ai le même probléme,sur mon moteur identique (intek 17.5 ohv briggs et startton) je dois changer l'arbre a came suite a casse du décompresseur également, combien avez vous mis au jeu de cale admission et échappement s'il vous plait ??
4 intake 6 sur l exhaust
I have a question. Is the preasure release allways on the intakte valve? Or can it be on the exhaust? Thank you for an answer.
Inteks always have it on the intake.
Hahaha 3rd time lucky ya recon... Iv'e got a pile of them humps of crud All drooped the decompress lobe 3/4 chewed it up and spar the rod out the block one day i was looking at them and thought get a cam and make a good 1 2 minutes later i shook my head and said do the maths on the pile to odds of survival....
Excellent... Thank you from Australia 16NOV2017
Where do you get the spec sheet with all the torque specs and valve settings? Briggs sells all their manuals. Thanks for the video. I am pretty sure a briggs motor I have is having the same issue.
I just googled Briggs and stratton check chart.
You can find the manual if you have the engine model number (usually on the valve cover): www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html
What causes the failure?
I was hoping to see it reinstalled on the mower and running though
ruclips.net/video/0l9LAhTIs0g/видео.html
I did this repair. Bought the new cam and installed. About 6 start ups later, the little decompression piece broke again. Bought another cam and did the repair again. It started one time and broke again. What is going on!?!
Did you buy an aftermarket cam and not one from briggs and stratton if so thats your answer if not then ? Maybe valves too tight.
@@rictorres6979 yep that was the problem. 3rd time bought the cam from Briggs and it's been running ever since.
Hi, thanks for the amazing video. Quick question, how do I replace the spring the compression release?? The crankshaft looks great but the spring looks very week and does not hold...Thank you!!!
There's a clip on the pin, pull that and the pin slides out of the weight and you can replace the spring, if you can find one.
@@pfun41 Thanks a lot for your quick answer, I really appreciate it! Yeah...finding the spring won't be easy....man don't you mind if I ask you something else :)?
I am rebuilding a B&S 28N707, the compression was at 50 psi, the rings and piston look great, rings gap between 0.14 - and 0.16 ( I will replace them anyway) the gasket was good to my eyes....valves, seats look fine too, one of the valves has some play in the guide, not much.....but I can't find the reason why the low compression? Do you have any idea??? THANKS A LOT!!!!!!!!!
@@Opiti72 I don't even check compression on small engines. IME either they have no compression at all or they burn tons of oil. But many will show low compression due to the compression release which stays engaged at low RPM.
@@pfun41 Thanks a lot, it is good to know...!!! Thanks again.
Is it possible to look at the compression release with a small camera like a bore a scope? Thanks
doubt it. You can usually feel the bump through the intake pushrod if its working.
Pfund41 please do you think is possible can you share the number part from original Briggs and Stratton engine I have 17.5 Hp Intek ohv Briggs and Stratton engine please I will be really grateful with you thanks!!
This engine is long gone but it should be a 31xxxxxx series
Hi,I have a Craftsman 4 years old Riding mower 21 hp Briggs & stratton engine . Motor hard to turn with starter ,new starter & battery--It make 3/4 turn & if if make 1 to 2 turn start right up. When starter can not turn it heat up ,without Spark plug engine move ok , I checked the valve clearance .004 & .006 -- Do you think it is a Compression release valve ,how I can be sure of that. Please help ,what other thing it could be?
V twin or single?
@@pfun41 it is a single head, one exhaust & one inlet valve
If it's not the valves out of adjustment, it's the compression relief!
Getting ready to put in a performance cam and tabit in a motor. Can I use just reg. grease for assembly lube,, or is royal purple 90 weight on the parts good? I do not have any specific assembly lube thus the question
motor oil is better than grease if you're not using assembly lube. regular grease may not dissolve properly in the motor oil.
I use that Permatex ultra slick red stuff or Lucas assembly lube. They both dissolve nicely with 5w-30, but motor oil is just as good especially if you plan on starting it within a couple days
@@elioselectric468 I Think I've been using a tube of Honda assembly lube for years. Anything that will dissolve in the oil will work. I mostly tend to use motor oil on small engines though as I often start them right after assembly and install.
What about verifying .0010 of the ACR ?
so it dosnt have one on the camshaft ??
Loved the video but where do you find the number in order to get the parts? Is there a number on the engine some where?
Model is stamped into the valve cover
@@pfun41 thank you
Makes you wonder how anyone can thumb this video down Maybe its just shows how many freaks suffer mental illness or have fish hooks stuck up there asses. You cant find a more thorough video on doing this engine the correct way. Thanks for uploading this Great job.
lies
Both valves should be set at .004.
Is the governor necessary and what is its purpose?
On a lawn mower it is. To maintain the engine at a set rpm for any given load.
What kind of Mickey Mouse bullshit design is that?!?! What happened to Briggs and Stratton?!?!!
I bought a craftsman riding mower brand new back in 2006ish, used it for 3 years. The engine started smoking BAD, I planned to nurse the engine until the fall when I could tear into it. That plan changed when the piston shattered, tearing up the engine beyond economical repair. I bought a replacement engine, for the most part it has been trouble free, until about a month ago. I had the same cranking slow problem, I replaced the battery with no luck. I still had the starter from the exploded engine, I swapped it with no success. When researching the problem I found this video. I’m pretty sure this is my problem. I change the oil and filter and fully lubricant everything every fall before storing the mower, it’s not a lack of maintenance issue.
My next door neighbor has a 25 plus year old riding mower that I have to borrow a couple times while my junk is down. I will NEVER buy another Briggs product again. This is another classic example of the bean counters cutting corners on quality to the point of driving away long time customers.
is it the same as a 23 vtin intec moter does it have the compression relief on camshaft
no
Do you know if a compression release cam can be retrofitted into an engine that did not originally have one?
Briggs MODEL TYPE CODE
331877 2371 G5 110913ZD
If the cam fits correctly then theoretically yes but if it didn't originally come with one it shouldn't need it.
@@pfun41 Well, it turns out hearing back from Briggs that the parts diagram I was looking at is not necessarily correct. They claim that ALL of the models have the compression release and that if I order the camshaft it will be on it. Meanwhile, I used the hand over the intake workaround to get it started and mowed a couple of hours with it before putting it to rest for the winter (during which time I will go ahead and get a new camshaft). Thanks! :-0)
why wont it turn over then good battery jump start but only turns over with plugs out soon as i put them in it stops turn over
poor starter cable connections or a weak starter. if it can't turn it even with the valves always slightly open then the starter isn't generating enough torque. I had a V twin starter that could barely get a worn out engine going, the upper bushing was completely worn out.
@@pfun41 yep ive pulled it apart its mint brushes are good magnets good just top gog is worn but that dosnt affect it im sure there must be a relief thing on the cam shaft ?there isnt one on my one but there is a 2 holes in it ?
@@paulslapcm I've never seen a compression release on a V twin. But I've heard a worn camshaft can cause trouble starting.
@@pfun41 thanks for that the lopes are quite not sharp but dont seem worn to much i might just get another one while ive got it apart anyway thanks for you help
what do you have in the spray bottle that your using to clean the gasket surface
Mineral Spirits. Cheaper than Brake cleaner.
vic mon bolatata
Bolanta plata generadora briggs stratton hp18 twin8000 con stater
Counterweight clunking while hand-cranking irritates me on mine.
So sloppy. So during compr. half stroke intake valve hits & air fuel backwards. Mine afterfires a moment after ign. kill.
Backfires on shutdown is usually a bad anti afterfire solenoid.
How do you adjust the valves
Never mind I watched this entire awesome explanatory video thank you
Why not drain the oil first ? Smh
Because then I have to spend extra time to jack up the mower and get an oil pan under there, drain the oil and then let it back down. Or I could skip that step, throw it on the bench and let it drain there where I have to have the tray and oil pan setup anyway. It's more efficient.
I took the motor off and then drained it thru the quick drain valve on the side. Worked for me
What kind of man wears gloves to work on a engine,lol
on most engines you do every possible to increase comp for more power all this release feature is bad design ?????????
I don't see a part two
ruclips.net/video/0l9LAhTIs0g/видео.html
too many words and too little work
B&S engineers using plastic, I will never but BS engines until they use metal gears!
What plastic? The Governor?The part with hardly any stress whatsoever?
Yeah the intek comp release is a dam joke.Won't be buying another briggs anytime soon , not when they're broken by design i certainly won't .
The push mower motors are even worse. The old ones could stand heavy use and a bit of Abuse.. Hit a root or hidden object in the yard and it bend the crank and crack the lower case. Parts to fix it cost more than a complete new mower.
Everyone motot make I've seen so far have weak compression release designs besides kohler . I buy and sell mowers for a living.