Always micrometer new camshaft lobes, should be .003 taper on each lobe for lifter spin, lifters should have base crown, run at least 10 minutes at 2k for polishing, in 3 steps.
Update: suffered a slight flat spot outta the hole with the Edelbrock carb (suspect the squirter a bit small), but the car set a new best at Quaker City Motorsports Park of 11.46 @ 112. Should be a great mid pack car for Ron.
Finally a video where everything doesn't go right the first time. Today I could have made a video like that breaking in my Cam, but it would have been longer with some real dumbass mistakes. Thank you Doc
Absolutely, no shame here, it's important to show everything because there may be someone on the fence about doing it themselves that needs to see what can go wrong. Glad it worked out and cam has been great all season so far.
Make me feel better about the mess that happened to me a few days ago… mine… I didn’t crank nearly as much but When the thing finally fired and ran for a few seconds .. as soon as I increased the rpm it started popping out the exhaust…. I threw in the towel before made things worse… anyway Iam gonna give it another go this weekend and take my time…
Some folks have you believe if it doesn't fire in one revolution, take the cam out it's junk. Definitely ideal that it lights off immediately, but there is room for error to some extent. Hopefully you get yours figured out!
If I were switching cams, I would be using a fresh new set of tappets. Tappets and cams are married once they break in together, change one and you gotta change both. The lifter must stay with the lobe.
I RECENTLY WATCHED A VIDEO OF A MAN THAT OWNS A MACHINE SHOP, HE HAS DISCOVERED THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH ALL THE NEW LIFTERS BEING SOLD, A VERY HI FAILURE RATE IN ALL BRANDS , MIGHT WANNA FIND HIS 3 part vide, APPARENTLY THESE JUNK LIFTERS ARE WIPING CAMS OUT
Not just cams. They wipe out the rod and main bearings and usually the crank. In just under an hour of run time, 25 minutes cam break in and 25 minutes of carb and timing adjustment mine wore one lifter down about 7/16" , that is not a mistype. That much. The valve in the lifter is visible from the contact side. Lots of metal in the oil. Their lifter, following their instructions to the letter and by the numbers equaled disaster.
The instructions that come in a Crap Cams box say 20-25 minutes, varying the the rpm between 2000-2500. NOTHING ABOUT 10-10-10. Their cams and lifters are not at all the cams they made in the 70s 80s and 90s. You almost never heard of a failure. I was selling and using them. I would have had customers wanting money and blood. I never had someone even mention a failure to me. I just experienced a lifter failure that has killed my cam, crankshaft and of course all bearings, gaskets etc. involved in tearing a motor down to a bare block and starting over. These companies like Comp Cams are criminals for selling this junk that tears up an entire engine. Criminals Junk. They should have stopped selling them years ago. Waiting for the class action law suits to start.
Agreed. Normally you'd want to set it as close as possible, but we ran into issues with the one plug wire inadvertantly tugging on the distributor and causing it to rotate. Not to mention I don't think that battery was helping us as all not putting out enough voltage for the ignition to light off. It definitely could have gone better.
@@awesomusmaximus3766 Exactly how do you have your timing "set" before you crank it? He had the distributor out of the motor. You turn the motor to TDC, both valves closed on #1 cylinder. Put your distributor down into the motor so that the rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap. Then turn it a few degrees in the advance direction. There isn't a way to have it Exactly at the timing setting you want until it is running. Tell us genius, how to have it set without starting the motor. Oh, and by the way, it's not a dizzy, it's a distributor. You are dizzy.
@@davidkeeton6716 I set the crank mark to 8 degrees advanced of TDC (recommended on my engine label) then drop the dizzy in so the rotor is close to #1. with equal amounts of distributor travel in either direction. Next (disable fuel) turn on ignition and with a timing light on #1 plug wire, rotate the distributor back and forth, noting where it sparks. Back and forth in smaller increments until your within 2-3 mm of the spark..... that is the spot. Spark will happen at 8 degrees advanced. This will have you within 1-2 degrees of the idle timing of 8 degrees advanced. Genius I rekon.
Your young helpers need to be taught what is going on and what to expect and WHY. They seem a bit lost because of lack of training and experience. They really need to quit the gaming on their phone and pay attention to the car and engine and racing conversations that the adults are having around them.
I build many flat tappet engines , my way is inspect very well all parts , then lube cam with proper lube , install breaking springs I use beehive 80 psi seat open 250 open use breakin oil , run in 3 heat cycles 10 to 15 minutes at a time keep cool with fans and H20 hose on radiator , after break in I change to recommend springs and don't have problems good luck . Also mine i make sure fire up immediately .
Always micrometer new camshaft lobes, should be .003 taper on each lobe for lifter spin, lifters should have base crown, run at least 10 minutes at 2k for polishing, in 3 steps.
Chevy guys!!! Proud of it. lol didnt have that issue. Check ur wires crossed..
Update: suffered a slight flat spot outta the hole with the Edelbrock carb (suspect the squirter a bit small), but the car set a new best at Quaker City Motorsports Park of 11.46 @ 112. Should be a great mid pack car for Ron.
Put a double pumper on it go faster.
@@karlsracing8422 budget build for bracket racing so he isn't after ET
What springs you running seat & open pressure ?
Finally a video where everything doesn't go right the first time. Today I could have made a video like that breaking in my Cam, but it would have been longer with some real dumbass mistakes. Thank you Doc
Absolutely, no shame here, it's important to show everything because there may be someone on the fence about doing it themselves that needs to see what can go wrong. Glad it worked out and cam has been great all season so far.
That cam is toast.
200 passes since install and still going strong.
@@dr.moparm.d.6528 yes not toast, don’t matter, get it timed right before you run it 👍
Make me feel better about the mess that happened to me a few days ago… mine… I didn’t crank nearly as much but When the thing finally fired and ran for a few seconds .. as soon as I increased the rpm it started popping out the exhaust…. I threw in the towel before made things worse… anyway Iam gonna give it another go this weekend and take my time…
Some folks have you believe if it doesn't fire in one revolution, take the cam out it's junk. Definitely ideal that it lights off immediately, but there is room for error to some extent. Hopefully you get yours figured out!
And I still have my Craftsman timing light from the '70's it's well traveled
Back when Craftsman was the go to brand for middle class America.
Glad you got it running.
We are too...it's always the little stuff!
I want to reuse my hydraulic flat tappet lifters, I’ve heard people say I can as long as I do the right break in procedures. Is this true
If I were switching cams, I would be using a fresh new set of tappets. Tappets and cams are married once they break in together, change one and you gotta change both. The lifter must stay with the lobe.
I RECENTLY WATCHED A VIDEO OF A MAN THAT OWNS A MACHINE SHOP, HE HAS DISCOVERED THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH ALL THE NEW LIFTERS BEING SOLD, A VERY HI FAILURE RATE IN ALL BRANDS , MIGHT WANNA FIND HIS 3 part vide, APPARENTLY THESE JUNK LIFTERS ARE WIPING CAMS OUT
Not just cams. They wipe out the rod and main bearings and usually the crank. In just under an hour of run time, 25 minutes cam break in and 25 minutes of carb and timing adjustment mine wore one lifter down about 7/16" , that is not a mistype. That much. The valve in the lifter is visible from the contact side. Lots of metal in the oil. Their lifter, following their instructions to the letter and by the numbers equaled disaster.
The instructions that come in a Crap Cams box say 20-25 minutes, varying the the rpm between 2000-2500. NOTHING ABOUT 10-10-10. Their cams and lifters are not at all the cams they made in the 70s 80s and 90s. You almost never heard of a failure. I was selling and using them. I would have had customers wanting money and blood. I never had someone even mention a failure to me. I just experienced a lifter failure that has killed my cam, crankshaft and of course all bearings, gaskets etc. involved in tearing a motor down to a bare block and starting over. These companies like Comp Cams are criminals for selling this junk that tears up an entire engine. Criminals Junk. They should have stopped selling them years ago. Waiting for the class action law suits to start.
You should have done the timing before you attempted to start it mine started first go after the rebuild
Agreed. Normally you'd want to set it as close as possible, but we ran into issues with the one plug wire inadvertantly tugging on the distributor and causing it to rotate. Not to mention I don't think that battery was helping us as all not putting out enough voltage for the ignition to light off. It definitely could have gone better.
@@dr.moparm.d.6528 I'm getting holley hyperspark as my dizzy just died
@@awesomusmaximus3766 Exactly how do you have your timing "set" before you crank it? He had the distributor out of the motor. You turn the motor to TDC, both valves closed on #1 cylinder. Put your distributor down into the motor so that the rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap. Then turn it a few degrees in the advance direction. There isn't a way to have it Exactly at the timing setting you want until it is running. Tell us genius, how to have it set without starting the motor. Oh, and by the way, it's not a dizzy, it's a distributor. You are dizzy.
@@davidkeeton6716 I set the crank mark to 8 degrees advanced of TDC (recommended on my engine label) then drop the dizzy in so the rotor is close to #1. with equal amounts of distributor travel in either direction. Next (disable fuel) turn on ignition and with a timing light on #1 plug wire, rotate the distributor back and forth, noting where it sparks. Back and forth in smaller increments until your within 2-3 mm of the spark..... that is the spot. Spark will happen at 8 degrees advanced. This will have you within 1-2 degrees of the idle timing of 8 degrees advanced. Genius I rekon.
Never never never run Chevy distributor parts in a Mopar that's a No-No that Chevy part was not happy
Your young helpers need to be taught what is going on and what to expect and WHY. They seem a bit lost because of lack of training and experience. They really need to quit the gaming on their phone and pay attention to the car and engine and racing conversations that the adults are having around them.
Literally me yesterday
battery charger ?
Yeah I think we could have used a better one...and a fresh battery as well. Lots of cranking so the starter got hot.
Nice car 👍
Wtf am I watching 🐒🐒🏈
Real life
I build many flat tappet engines , my way is inspect very well all parts , then lube cam with proper lube , install breaking springs I use beehive 80 psi seat open 250 open use breakin oil , run in 3 heat cycles 10 to 15 minutes at a time keep cool with fans and H20 hose on radiator , after break in I change to recommend springs and don't have problems good luck . Also mine i make sure fire up immediately .
lol
Kinda a shitshow
Kinda?
Trying to be 👍