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Dodge 318/XE256 Cam Break-In/Exhaust Sound
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- Опубликовано: 28 янв 2023
- Edelbrock heads have been rebuilt.
Found & restored a 30+ year old Edelbrock Torker 2 intake manifold.
Added a 1" 4-hole spacer under carb and swapped in another camshaft since the CROWER 224°-224° was such a dud.
Now using a Comp Cams XE256,
212°-218° @.050"/256°-268 ADV.
.477" intake lift
.485" Exhaust lift (with 1.6 ratio Rocker Arms)
110 LSA
106° ILC degreed in @104°
**New blueprinted Edelbrock AFB 600 CFM carburetor test... wide open from idle⬇️⬇️
• Video
*On Dyno with small carb, lame Summit cam & Performer intake⬇️
• MOPAR 318 ON DYNO-Resu...
*CROWER 224° cam sound⬇️
• Dodge 318 w/Crower 224...
Thank you for not giving in to an ego trip and stuffing a huge cam in it that will only idle at 2000rpm. That is a responsible cam grind choice and will serve you well on the street!
I read an article back in the 80's that said Not to ever go to the bottom of the page for a cam. Humans seem to be pre-dispositioned to go for the biggest of anything if the prices are the same...which works with some items but def Not for Camshafts.
I've tried 4 cams in this engine in the past year. The biggest I ran was a 224°- 224° CROWER which was still fairly mild but it Ruined the driveability of the car entirely. I backed it down to this 212°-218° and it absolutely Rocks. Nice idle, pulls from 1500 to 5500 with a single plane Torker 2 manifold. It would certainly Pull from Idle with a dual plane.
One of the biggest benefits of a cam with under 45° of overlap is I can idle thru a parking lot in first gear with my foot completely off the clutch without any bucking or dramatics...Love this cam!
Ty for the the view & comment.
Cheers
Thank you for sharing this wonderful build! From a 1967 owner who wishes he held on to it 50 years ago! :( !!!!!
Got to love it. My first car was a 5 year old 1974 Challenger with the 318. Ran pretty good for its year, and sounded nice with the factory 340 dual exhaust system I installed complete with the cool cut-out rear valance & correct tips. Like they say, should have kept it.
Beautiful Charger built to DRIVE.
Ty & heck yeah! I've done almost 10,000 cruising miles since 10/2021...and counting. The car will turn 165,000 miles the next time I drive it & I don't care one bit 🏁🏁
Sounds great! I just put this same cam in my 360 Dodge D150 and love it! Not very lumpy but excellent for the street and still has a nice idle.
Nice...bet this cam makes your truck rotate the earth in a 360.
Well would you look at that. Sounds great. Great edit as well!
Looks awesome! I have a 318 in my work truck that I just started going through, to eventually get it to something like yours. I’m nowhere near you, but I’ve started the process at least. Yours sounds amazing, btw. Car is looking clean also. Great job, man. Very inspiring 👍
Thanks for the kind words!
If you have any questions on part selection or combination in general, drop me a line anytime🏁.
Very nice!
Good lookin engine and car sounds killer
What stripe "Graded Stripe" is that? Code? Gold? I had a 1974 Charger Rallye with a 400 Magnum with a 4 speed pistal grip in Yellow Blaze and a V6R red stripe, no stripe option on the hood. Loved that car but very rusty. Went out to PA back in 2000. 318 is a very solid engine!!
This car started out a with a 400 Magnum / 4-speed. 1 in 396 in 73'. By the time I got it, it had a smog 440 which was gutless and got 8 mpg.
I built an aluminum head 318 with proper compression which rips really good and gets 14-15 MPG. Graphics are from a company called Phoenix. Not sure what they called them but paint is called dark gold metallic JY9.
photos.app.goo.gl/C8ySyUwMDsX84fja7
Nice car, 4 speeds are pretty rare, and I like the color and stripes. I have a stock 440 / 727 slap stick with shift kit and sure grip in my 72 charger. I freshened up the 318 in my 77 powerwagon plow truck mainly to fix all the leaks. I put a factory spreadbore intake with a 650 avs2, advanced the stock cam 4 degrees and homemade dual exaust. I recurved the dist, but according to the plugs it it's running a little rich, and carb is set at leanest setting in the chart. I was wondering what jets you are running in your carb? I want to try using a different adapter/spacer set up, or use a thermoquad . Have a good day!
Thanks man! It's one of 396 for 1973.
Nice mods, sounds like a cool project. I tried an AVS2 650 & I am currently running an avs2 800.
Our of the box, the 650 was lean when running on the primaries. Stiffer springs on the needles alleviated that. The secondaries were so rich that it just went into a rich stutter if you tried flooring it. Winding up or tightening the spring on the flap door cured that issue then it started running almost like EFI with stock 98-98 jets. The only thing I did not like about the automatic choke 650 avs2 is the permanent air leak that the carburetor is designed to have on the choke thermostat which cools it. If you block it off, the thermostat will melt.
I then purchased the AVS2 800 with a manual choke. That carburetor worked 100% mint out of the box and the engine definitely ran better. For reference, all four barrels on the 800 are the same size. 1.75".
600 has 1-3/8 & 1.75.
I purchased an AEM wideband air fuel ratio Gage / setup but haven't installed it yet. For the $150, it's the only real way we are going to get carburetion spot on.
Here is the thermal insulator, spacer that I used.
It completely sealed and ensured the dual-plane intake manifold worked as intended. I would recommend this.
www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9266
@@Projects5309 I know I need to install an AFR gauge to be sure what's going on, just need to weld a bung into exaust pipe, but kinda want to wait till I install new exaust after headers are installed. I currenly use the carb adapter that angles the venturies this way and that, so I will try different adapter set up for now, otherwise try to tune a thermoquad... Will be waiting for more charger vids! I also like your vids, very well produced, and links built in. I hardly know how to use my phone much less.. Later
Any details on the build?
Built it last winter from scratch.
.040" 1973 318
Stock crank,
Reconditioned stock forged rods,
Keith Black KB-167 pistons,
Edelbrock performer RPM heads,
Edelbrock Torker 2 intake manifold w/ Edl 800 CFM AVS2 Carb & 1 inch 4- hole sapcer.
Comp Cam XE256 flat tappet cam with Crower cam saver Lifters, Cloyes billet 9-key timing set degreed 2° advanced.
New factory electonic distributor, 36° all in by 2,000rpm with FBO Ignition box.
Hooker long tube headers, Pypes X-pipe with pair of Dynomax super turbo mufflers.
*Here it is on the Dyno but with a super lame Summit cam, basic performer intake and a junk 600 CFM Holley carb⬇️
ruclips.net/video/maA9dng2xH4/видео.html
Do these head just bolt right up on a 318? Ive got a 85 318 block .030 over with flat top pistons and didnt know if they will fit.
Yes, direct fit. Bolt o n & go. Disregard the old false myth that the valves won't clear the bore.
What would you recommend the biggest cam i could run without hitting the piston? These heads are rated for .575 max lift, i think, and want a nice sounding cam. I found the summit 6900 cams are good, and the comp cam 20-223-3 was too, but i dont know if i can or can't run one or the other.
@@dakotamccoig4438 the summit 6900 is a very mild Cam and should be considered stock replacement. I ran a summit 6900 for one year. I used that cam for my Dyno video which is posted on my channel and I also have a sound video here as well.
The Comp XE268 that you mentioned has a super choppy idle and a lot of people use it for that reason. Is it the best cam? Don't know but I know guys who reduced cam size one or two steps and the vehicle actually ran better. The cam in this video, XE256... is two steps below the Comp Cam you mentioned. If I could do it again, I would go one bigger than mine which is the Comp XE262. None of these cams mentioned will cause interference with the Pistons.
Amazing information I appreciate the help
I've got one more concern. I'm going with a comp cam 20-222-3, which is one size smaller the the previous stated camshaft. I know these heads bolt right up and operate just fine and I can you factory rockers aswell. Did you have to change your pushrod length or did you use your factory pushrods just fine?