318 Mopar Engine build on a budget. Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- We build up the shortblock for the 1974 Duster project car with new rings and bearings. Drop in the crank, pistons and camshaft. Much of the process will carry over to other makes of V8 engines.
Here's the video on how to use the tumbler: • Tumbler - Simple and E...
Some of the tools I use or recommend:
Cam bearing tool: amzn.to/3JmIRfZ
Ring groove cleaner: amzn.to/3Jt4ona
Cylinder hone: amzn.to/3xE2i1k
Ring compressor: amzn.to/3W4tmBc
DIY Parts washers:
Budget parts washer that fits on a bucket: amzn.to/3vWSpLC
Sink style parts washer: amzn.to/4cZZBYa
(both of these will need pump upgrade to use petroleum based solvents)
Disclosure:
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Just found your channel tonight and really enjoy watching this series (I'm a Mopar guy). You have a great presentation style; relaxed, no terrible music, just a solid guy working on cool car projects. Keep up the good work!
Great Video and Thanks for showing what its really like building one of these for the average Joe!
Glad you liked it!
No Plastigauge or bearing clearance checks ??? you got a lot of faith.
Haha I was looking over my shoulder at 1:53! 😅 good job
Love your videos!
Awesome workshop/garage, thanks for video
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for the content. Subscribed and liked
Awesome, thank you!
Thx bud good down to it information
Thx bud small detail is diy guy
very nice 318 roller block
Thanks! I was pleasantly surprised when I saw this junky old 74 Duster had a roller motor!
The first time You can also take a bus to the rain but it’s raining here and run through the grooves clean the ring lines out on pistons answer cleaning them out in the solvent think that’s what most of us do you want because we don’t have that fancy Ringland cleaning till you’re just using their😊
Exactly. You can take a bus to the rain, but you can't take the rain to the bus.
ta hell!?!
Cool 😎
Some people use that white polishing compound from Harber Frate and a terrycloth L and use the same methodology right there and then they switch to the Emery cloth to do the final ball after using the the White compound Lakeside Harber Frate I think you need to remember about the compound Harber Frate is that the white stuff it’s a lighter and the Sriracha sauce red color it really is abrasive so I wouldn’t use that on crankshaft but people do use the white one as I said Derek‘s got a really good video on this when he build his junkyard 350 Chevy for the 70 Chevelle with a three speed that he built and his first vice script garage video before there was a vice grip garage
It's easier to put the freeze plugs in first, before all the heavy stuff, so you can maneuver the block around. Always check for bore out of round and taper before glaze breaking. What is done here is not honing. New rings won't last long otherwise.
I only installed the core plugs last because I wanted to paint the engine complete but leave the plugs unpainted and didn't want to mask them off (tape or grease). Didn't have any trouble getting them in with the engine upright. The honing process I did is still honing. It's not reaming or boring, it's not going to fix any taper or out-of-roundness. But that's not what we are trying to accomplish here. Just level the surface and create a crosshatch for the new rings to seat in.
I watched the entire video and i noticed at 26:45 there are dents from the valve i just noticed mine has them on all 4 pistons I'm guessing the valves hit from the first time i put it together
Check your valves and pushrods make sure they aren’t bent. I found a couple bent pushrods. The only thing I can figure is the plungers in the lifters were getting stuck, holding the valves open. I couldn’t get them to bleed down for nothing.
I took off the heads and found a piston has chipped off on the edge
now I ordered a new set of pistons but can I use the same bearing caps or should I replace everything new?
I just use emery cloth strips and polish the crank without a shoe lace. Just pull it back and fourth by hand doing (U) shape around the journal. Lace is waist of time
Hi there I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota 4x4 with a 5.2L magnum and I am also doing a rebuild everything is done but now that I reinstalled the engine when I turn the crankshaft by hand from the crank bolt it will turn all the way until the 5oclock position and then it gets stuck jammed. I know your not supposed to turn the crank backwards but I tried it to see if it would turn counter clock wise and it still gets jammed at the same 5o clock position any ideas on what can be jamming it?
I have also removed the top left head assembly because there is a squeak coming from the left side of the engine when I turn the crank shaft .
It feels very hard to turn
Everything looks fine but there is something jamming it at the 5 o'clock position
Hi thanks for watching. Id check all your bolts. Make sure they are all they way in and not backed out. Also, make sure they are not too long and sticking out far enough to hit something. (Converter and balancer). May be something internally like the crank counterweight hitting the oil pump, or some interference with the timing gears. Also it’s OK to rotate the engine backwards.
That’s the most people use a piece of gas line or small heater hose to keep from Nicky in the crank with the bolt not all of us have again the fancy factory made tool for that some of us are as Chad from this in that garage says we are at backyard literally at the best, but Sam Lewis can’t afford those fancy tools sir. Just let you know there is another way of doing it.
Yup. More than one way to skin a cat as they say. These rubber caps came with something I got years ago for shipping to protect whatever it was. I just saved them from the trash and threw them in the drawer with the rest of the engine tools. I've used hose before, works perfect.
I've built many engines and have never uses a rod bolt protector. If your that careless when using tools or assembling engines maybe should find other hobbies.
The biggest downfall of these factory LA blocks is lack of deck thickness and the distortion associated, I've never seen one yet that didn't need to be decked some amount to straighten it usually Iin the centre they ate low
This was a very low budget “fresh’n up”. I’m hoping I don’t have issues with the head gasket and valves sealing. We’ll see I suppose.
Dryer information
Whats it usually cost to have a mechanic do it for you?
Im getting a 360 done right now, machinists is saying about $2000 for getting my crank polished cylinders bored out to 30 over new cam bearings installed, new pistons put on rods, block cleaned and decked to give me 10 to 1 compression, thats gonna include new pistons, and im gonna put it together, pretty pricey
@@blakenorman4822 psssshhhsh I gotta strong 318 and want to rebuild or get a 360 for better torque. It's in a 1975 Winnie I wonder if it'll fit
@@father6figure it should, theyre about the same size, both use the same head size and intake, building my 360 for my 47 hotrod, got a 318 in my 85 d150, only got 90,000 runs great
@@blakenorman4822 I'm getting excited just hearing about classic cars being brought back to life
I haven't a clue how much a shop would charge. You can buy a remanufactured engine for a few grand from an engine rebuilder or through a parts store. Regular mechanic shops out here charge $125-$185 an hour.
diyer
Sir,
With all due respect, your presentation is missing many important steps of the rebuild. Reusing old pistons is one thing, but not explaining why they are being reused is simply not good for viewers. Did you check for Oil Clearance ? Did you check crank journals for Out of Round ? Did you check Rod Big Ends for proper Specification ? Did you check the Main Bore ID ? Did you check the Bores for Taper ? These are all standard procedures involved in an Engine Rebuild. If you neglect to cover these things, you are misleading viewers. A rebuilt engine is supposed to do more than just survive, it is supposed to live long and by skipping procedures, you are paving the way to another tear down and rebuild in the near future. Being on a budget may mean only replacing parts that are severely worn, but it does not mean neglecting key steps and practices to ensure that YOU know that the engine you are assembling will be put together Right and not be a waste of time.
Thanks for watching! And Yup your correct, you don't know what you have unless you measure and check! You have to remember that this is just a hobbyist's youtube channel, not intended to be an all inclusive instructional video on how to build an engine. If one were to do that it could take hundreds of hours of video and you still wouldn't touch on everything. However, like most hobbyists that goto RUclips for knowledge, we learn from watching many different RUclips videos from various channels, pick up tips and tricks from each presenter. Not everyone can cover every detail. Maybe I should put a disclaimer at the beginning of my video like Derek from VGG does? lol
Ring gap? Did I miss that part?@@roadhardrestorations
I looked, and there was a gap! lol They were already gapped for the bore size from the manufacturer. Yes I checked but don't think I had a camera rolling at the time.@@mattszemkus891