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@@ColdStartGarage That was the dial indicator/ pedestal / magnet assembly from my Clay Smith camshaft degree kit that I used on my Dodge. There are no rules 🏁

You can ask them that question directly at 1-800-540-5823 or e-mail them at Info@prolong.com 8 - 4 PST.

I'm sure they can answer your question. Call them at 1-800-540 5823 8-4 PST.

I have never tried gear oil on a chain but I've seen people who have & It ends up splattered All over The wheel & swing arm. Makes a terrible mess so that was never an option for me.

I agree. I have to think it's the X-pipe that helped make the music. photos.app.goo.gl/Eauak2AnNr2U5WkF7

Well written & lots of good advice, ty. My particular situation & application is unique. In 2024, nobody talks or writes about intake valve carbon buildup on a 1970s carbureted vehicle which poses a completely unique set of challenges, mainly being that atomized fuel & pcv gasses are moving with air into the port & through the valves at extremely slow / low velocities, giving plenty of time for fuel to cook on the back of the hot valve thus leaving carbon. This was a well-known and normal issue back then but nobody cared. Does a really even matter? Not sure, the car runs absolutely Swiss watch perfect but it's going to be interesting finding out if there's a product that can clean or even minimize build up.

I started working on engines extensively in the late 1960s. My Dad ran a small fleet of medium duty chevy trucks, all with small blocks that needed rings, rod bearings and valve grinding at 50-70K miles. There was always one needing work and it became my after school job at about 13 years old. Those engines spent spent much of their life at 4000 rpm near wide open throttle. I noticed that when we tore them down the valves and combustion chambers were virtually carbon free. On the other hand, when we tore down my mom's or some other car with the same engine is was usually carboned up bad. So we discovered that occasionally "blowing out the carbon" actually worked. We would take Mom's car out to a long hill and perform bursts of wide open throttle in 2nd gear. The first two or three bursts would blow out black smoke. Then it would clear up and run better. After high school I went to auto/diesel trade school where one of my instructors was a General Motors factory trained tech that had done a few years as a NASCAR mech. One day a car came it for us to diagnose. It would barely idle and backfired and stumbled under load. After setting the timing, new plugs, full analysis on the SUN machine, and compression it was still the same. He grinned a bit and said "boys, I'm gonna show you something that will make you a ton of money, but if you ever tell anyone I told you to do this I'll deny it. He got two coke bottles, rinsed them out well, and filled them with water. Had us drive the car for a few minutes to get it fully warmed up. He then put one hand on the throttle and the other held the bottle over the carb with his thumb controlling the flow. He slowly increased the rpm and the flow of water until the engine was near red line with bottle at full flow. Then he switched to the other barrel of the carb and did the same. The car blew black smoke for a minute or so the turned pure white. It drove perfectly. His word of caution, if you don't get the engine fast enough with enough water flow, this won't work; if you use too much water too fast and stall it, it will blow the head gasket or worse. Practice on an engine that's ready for tear down until you get it right and if you blow an engine it's on you not me. I used this many times but I also made the mistake of showing my brother in law this and he blew both head gaskets on his 1971 Torino. Blamed me and made me help him fix it ...Ha. @@Projects5309

I'll try them all. PEA or Polyetheramines are the most potent carbon cleaners & the Rislone bottle that I show at the end has the highest concentration of the stuff. We shall see! I just had the headers off and inspected the ex side as well. Surprisingly, the ex valves & ports are not built up with chunky carbon. Fuel appears to be cooking onto the intake valves. Car runs at only 182° max. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyetheramines

@@Projects5309 . . Fuel additives. Interesting. They claim those additives are suppose to keep things clean.

Ty. My only goal is to present evidence & facts, right to the point. 🏁

That voice tho

@@mattdee9296 Was an experiment...I won't be using that again👍

@@mattdee9296 I know I was waiting to hear step back you have 30 seconds to comply from robo cop.

Nope. We ended up using this mower for target practice, while it was running of course 🎯 💥

On machines that I own & maintain, I always shut them off by releasing the lever just enough to cut spark then the engine slows down and stops without any brake from the flywheel. It's always a good idea to properly torque the flywheel nut because we should be able to abruptly let go of the handle without anything ill occurring.

😂😂💯

Yes, direct fit. Bolt o n & go. Disregard the old false myth that the valves won't clear the bore.

What would you recommend the biggest cam i could run without hitting the piston? These heads are rated for .575 max lift, i think, and want a nice sounding cam. I found the summit 6900 cams are good, and the comp cam 20-223-3 was too, but i dont know if i can or can't run one or the other.

@@dakotamccoig4438 the summit 6900 is a very mild Cam and should be considered stock replacement. I ran a summit 6900 for one year. I used that cam for my Dyno video which is posted on my channel and I also have a sound video here as well. The Comp XE268 that you mentioned has a super choppy idle and a lot of people use it for that reason. Is it the best cam? Don't know but I know guys who reduced cam size one or two steps and the vehicle actually ran better. The cam in this video, XE256... is two steps below the Comp Cam you mentioned. If I could do it again, I would go one bigger than mine which is the Comp XE262. None of these cams mentioned will cause interference with the Pistons.

Amazing information I appreciate the help

I've got one more concern. I'm going with a comp cam 20-222-3, which is one size smaller the the previous stated camshaft. I know these heads bolt right up and operate just fine and I can you factory rockers aswell. Did you have to change your pushrod length or did you use your factory pushrods just fine?

Drag a lawn mower out of the trash then pick up a quart of the stuff and let us know.

All four wheels are 15x8, Rubber are 245/60-15 front & 275/60-15 rear. Do they Not look like 15" wheels??

This car started out a with a 400 Magnum / 4-speed. 1 in 396 in 73'. By the time I got it, it had a smog 440 which was gutless and got 8 mpg. I built an aluminum head 318 with proper compression which rips really good and gets 14-15 MPG. Graphics are from a company called Phoenix. Not sure what they called them but paint is called dark gold metallic JY9. photos.app.goo.gl/C8ySyUwMDsX84fja7

Just saw your question. Hooker long tube headers & a full stainless Pypes X-Pipe set up with 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers...center inlet w offset outlet into full length tailipes.

Thankyou. They sound amazing.@@Projects5309

I really like those. I like the mild rumble at idle and the raspy roar when you romp on it. Do they drone at highway speed? @@Projects5309

@@JimmyLoose I've had louder droning mufflers. I hoped these wouldn't & they don't at any RPM. I had the company sent me a blueprint of the internals & there are no silly edges or angles. Exhaust goes into the center then gets smoothly routed around the muffler & out the offset exit. They work great, highly recommend.

Thank you for the reply. I think I'm going to choose these based on your video and information. I'm putting together the same setup for my 74 Dart 318 with Summit 6900 cam. I really appreciate the reply. Awesome car btw. @@Projects5309

I think your estimate is very realistic. Knowing what I know now, we could have easily made another 30-40+HP with simple parts that I eventually put in such as a good intake manifold, a real carb, better cam & headers that belong on the engine. A simple metal air filter base would have been worth several HP alone. It's all good fun 🏁

Yes but there are much better and more powerful camshafts available that are still mild and very good for the street. I'd recommend this one with CROWER lifters part # 66031-16 www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-218-224-hydraulic-flat-cam-for-chrysler-273-360.html

I know O'Reilly's has it for sure but it's $20 for 12 oz. I buy a full-Qt from Prolongs eBay store for $32 +$5 shipping which is definitely a better deal www.ebay.com/itm/275762942839?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=o_Te8sHMQe6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=H6LwYMCyReu&var=577341022978&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thank you for the nice compliment! I have a few motorized time capsules and I ride / drive the wheels off of them all. The condition of my machines does not change with use due to extremely careful emphasis on maintenance and proper care. I say, don't hide them, ride them! 🏁

Thank you. I know Johnny's vintage cycle does restorations and I believe they are fluent with Kawasaki triples. I know of two individuals who brought bikes there. One guy had a five-star experience and the other guy had a no-star experience. Maybe try them and stay involved, very very involved.

thank you @@Projects5309

I like WASP. I've been riding and analyzing this bike a lot lately. The bike has remarkable solidarity & stability with the upgraded rear dampeners, tapered steering head bearings and modern rubber. It goes straight really well, it stops quite remarkably with the double front disc and it streaks nicely around high-speed loose Bends. Tight turns are off the list due to the expansion chamber's grounding quite easily. The machine must be appreciated for what it is and should not be pushed through corners. Once that respect is established and boundaries are set, it's a joy to ride with remarkable curb appeal and the sound is literally, from another world. Thanks for the comment.🏁

Horrible in my .040" over, 9.5:1 aluminum head, RPM air-gap intake & AVS2 650 carbed 318. 4-speed car with 3:23s. The idle sounded awesome. The engine didn't smooth out until 1800. 1800 to 4400 it just ran & nothing more. 4400 to 5200 was the super narrow power band then it was finished. With an automatic & a 2500 or 3000 stall converter, it might be okay. The cam was a carbon-copy knockoff of Comp Cams Magnum 270. I would not recommend it. Find yourself a nice split pattern camshaft like I did. Comp XE256 212°-218° @.050" is what I put in and it's a different vehicle entirely. Significantly better performance and drivability with a smaller split duration cam. I almost wish I had installed one size bigger, the XE262. That's as big as I would Ever go. Maybe someday. A very wise fellow told me 30 years ago that 318s do not want or need a lot of cam. He was right.

probably worn out, and exceeding the gvwr...

Thanks for watching and for the insightful comment. For the first time since last year, 2 days ago, I rode about 100 miles on the bike in this video and was assessing the bike and it's quirks nearly every mile. The characteristics you mentioned are what kept me from purchasing a 1971 model which was nearly identical to yours 69". The later H1's were significantly refined compared to the old ones. I put in roller headset bearings & modern rear shock absorbers with heavier weight oil in the forks for more dampening and the bike is remarkably safe and stable at any speed. A wonderful long-haul cruiser. It will corner if you push it but the biggest problem is the expansion chamber's want to ground and that will get your attention in a hurry and prevent you from trying such things ever again. I had stage 2 Denco Porting done and the stock carburetors & air intake system have been significantly refined. It makes wonderful usable power under 6,000 revs then from 6000 to 8800 it's on the boil and you better hang on. I ride a mixture of city / highway with occasional deep throttling and the motorcycle returns 30 + - mpg. My Honda 350 four and Yamaha 2 strokes are much more nimble and sensible machines but the cool factor of riding a 500cc three-cylinder two-stroke is beyond compare. 🏁

Ty & heck yeah! I've done almost 10,000 cruising miles since 10/2021...and counting. The car will turn 165,000 miles the next time I drive it & I don't care one bit 🏁🏁

A couple cam grinders who are actually talkative mentioned these white box cams. This Magnum 224° @.050" is the worst camshaft I ever ran by far. Bucked like crazy trying to idle through a parking lot (4-speed) .Didn't start running smoothly till 1800 and didn't come on to the boil till 4400 & was all done by 5200. WTF... Horrible.

@@Projects5309 I had that experience with a 440 cam. It was the 292.509 Purple cam. What a POS! Basically, forget it under 3000 rpm. The engine would lope all the way through the 2500 rpm range. But literally after 3000rpm it was like flipping a switch and it took off like a rocket. That was advanced 4 degrees with bleed down lifters too. 2 really good cams for a small block are the 340 auto cam and that Comp 268 HE. I think the 340 cam is 210/220@.050.

For what it's worth, the white box 260H was a huge improvement over the summit cam. The summit cam ran, it worked, it was super quiet but had no character whatsoever... Just a flat boring power curve idle to 5400. The summit cam has 278 total duration with 204° at .050". "Comp" has 260° total with 212@.050". The comp is closing the intake valve valve 8° earlier even though it has eight degrees more duration at .050", as you know, this equals more cylinder pressure. The 110 certainly helps. Out of the four cans that I've tried in the past year this 260h is my second-favorite... First favorite by far as the cam I'm using right now which is an xe256. 212° intake(256 total which means steeper ramps than the 260H) and 218° on the exhaust. This cam idles nice, I can creep through a parking lot with my foot off the clutch, and even with a single-plane manifold, it pulls from 1500, comes on to the boil at 3k and pulls really nice to 5500. I have a video of this cam running as well. Thanks for the comment, you clearly know what you were talking about.

@@Projects5309 I can believe it about that Summit cam. They're the same as Jegs and Elgin or Melling. Those cams are REALLY old 1960's designs from General Kinetics (out of business since 1993 I think). Those cams are like the stockers with really long slow ramps. I put a stock 'Magnum' cam in my 383 Dodge pickup. The guy at Mancini tried talking me out of it. It was 'OK' but pretty unimpressive. When I was doing some engine work a few years back I swapped in a Crane HMV272 and what a difference. I think a dual pattern cam is usually better than a single in most applications for better low end and extended upper RPM. Those Comp XE's are OK the only thing about them is the closing ramps are too fast and sometimes you get that 'tick' they're known for. I usually prefer the Lunati Voodoo's because they open the valves just as fast but the closing ramp is gentler so it's quieter. I know the XE268 and up were noisy but don't know about the smaller ones. You can tell how fast the cam is, or rather the profile, by subtracting the dur @.050 from the adv dur to come up with what Harvey Crane called the 'Hydraulic Intensity'. The cam with the lower number will have more power, better vacuum and better street manners than another cam with a higher number and the same @.050 dur, same lobe centers and advance.

@@vincemajestyk9497 Really good information, thank you! You are absolutely right about the clicking with these Comp Cams. My 260H and current xe256 both do it. I even tried half a bottle of Lucas additive as well as adding another quarter turn to the rocker adj, nothing helps... It is what it is. So many people recommend the xe268 which has 224°-230° @ .050. I had such terrible luck with 224-224, the last thing I want to do is put in anything even remotely similar. Someone told me a long time ago that 318s do not want, need or like big lumpy cams unless you're building a Max performance deal. My particular car is a 4-speed w 3.23s cruiser and gets 8000 Miles+ per season. I need it to do everything well, including mileage which it got 14.8mpg a average last week which is quite good for an old hot rod. I'm sure you'd get a kick out of my other videos(Dyno one especially). Feel free to have a look, I would appreciate any comment 🏁🏁

@@Projects5309 I wouldn't go to the bigger XE268. The Lucas or any additives won't help the noise. The problem on those Comp XE's is the design of closing ramps on the lobes are too fast and cause the lifter to momentarily lose contact with the lobe and when it comes back down it causes the 'tick'. If the valve springs are the correct recommended springs there's not much you can do, but I've heard that beehive springs help, however I wouldn't exceed the recommended pressure. The Voodoo's will give you all the same characteristics of the XE series without the noise. Plus, I remember early on they were tested for endurance, something over 100-200k miles of use with no issues.

@@Projects5309 I did check out your other videos! Thanks for posting those! I think that 256 profile sounds like the best profile for what the engine 'wants'. Not sure if you know it or not but of the 4 valve timing events, intake closing is the most important. The earlier the intake closes, the more cylinder pressure you generate and better low rpm performance and all that goes with it. You can tinker with it by the cam centerline and advance. Summit has a pretty cool cam timing calculator under the tools page. Performance Trends has a nice 'Desktop Dyno' that you can use on a trial basis to evaluate different cam profiles. Most of the cams are already cataloged.

Nice...bet this cam makes your truck rotate the earth in a 360.

Thanks for the nice compliment and greetings from the USA. Your current setup sounds interesting. Your cam is a little big and and trying to work outside of the range of your mild cylinder heads / compression. It's also not helping you build much-needed compression. If you were to install an XE256 which is the cam I am currently using, your engine would build more usable power. I've altered the tune quite a bit since this Dyno session. Cam, intake manifold and carburetor have been updated for the better. Trick Flow heads are really the ultimate cylinder head, a notch or 2 better than the Edelbrocks I am using but keep in mind, they work best with high compression and high RPM where the Edelbrocks are a bit more street friendly. Good luck, keep us posted 🏁 ruclips.net/video/T9iIuSx3Sq4/видео.html

@@Projects5309 thank you for that Information. Perhaps one day I’ll get around to it. Great engines though. Mopar 🤘

Chrysler put 800cfm TQ's on the 318 in trucks, I get a lot of crap about carb size but there have been a couple of dyno test on youtube where they found out bigger carbs make more power. I have a 750 on my 360 with a performer intake, cam and lifters, it was powerless with a 500cfm or 600cfm carb, I will be going with the new Edelbrock 800cfm when I install new 1.6 ratio roller rockers and headers, this engine is in a 84 Dodge dually with 4.10 rear gears. Carb size made no difference in fuel economy nor should it if properly tuned. I would say your 500cfm carb is way too small but then that's just me.

carb is 100% too small. try a 625-650 cfm carb.

I read an article back in the 80's that said Not to ever go to the bottom of the page for a cam. Humans seem to be pre-dispositioned to go for the biggest of anything if the prices are the same...which works with some items but def Not for Camshafts. I've tried 4 cams in this engine in the past year. The biggest I ran was a 224°- 224° CROWER which was still fairly mild but it Ruined the driveability of the car entirely. I backed it down to this 212°-218° and it absolutely Rocks. Nice idle, pulls from 1500 to 5500 with a single plane Torker 2 manifold. It would certainly Pull from Idle with a dual plane. One of the biggest benefits of a cam with under 45° of overlap is I can idle thru a parking lot in first gear with my foot completely off the clutch without any bucking or dramatics...Love this cam! Ty for the the view & comment. Cheers