You’re welcome and thank you Joe. It took awhile and some sharp helpers from Facebook to figure out that oil pressure loss route cause. I was close to pulling the engine. Thanks god it got figured out before all that work.
Excellent tip Joe! Ive seen this plug forgotten before just like the one that goes in the front of FE Fords. Theres another one that gets forgotten a lot and the end result is even worse... It goes under the rear main cap. I'd make a video but I don't have a small block apart at the moment. Maybe yours is still apart? Edit: then I proceed to read the comments and see this was already pointed out by other Mopar people! LOL!
Great info Joe, Thanks for sharing this and a big thanks to @JonnyMopar for bringing this to your attention. Glad he got this figured out. All the Best !
Great Tech Joe. Some people never pull that plug. That is definitely not good as you can't clean the oil gallerie.. Block looks very nice Joe. Thanks for sharing.
Great reminder Joe! Glad it got figured out and more so, glad it was able to be sorted without pulling the engine. And of course, the visuals are most helpful!
Good video and making "Awareness". Maybe something like this is what happened to the 383 ..... We'll know some day when I tare it down. I firmly believe it had a flatten cam when I bought it.
Great coverage, Joe. Big thanks to JonnyMopar for shedding some light on it.. I have seen these plugs with a tiny hole drilled in them for oiling the distributor shaft bushing. I don't know if that was really needed, but figured, as small as that hole was, it probably didn't hurt!
I wasn't involved with the oil galleries when my dad overhauled the engine in the car in my profile. It probably has the inner plug also like you said.
Glad to be back and I am glad you are doing this about that, a newer Mopar buff might not know about that one and as you said I don't remember you ever mentioning that in any of your building videos. Great evening and enjoy your day tomorrow. Again awesome post , glad you are doing it to ensure that someone doesn't miss this or forgets to clean it out, etc. Good evening and enjoy your night JMJ.
This really is a great tip for all the guys out there. Thank goodness for great machine shops that generally save our bacon a lot of the time! I too have had those already installed by shops...i think for the very reason that Jonny just dealt with. I'm alot like you Joe, I want to be able to put a flashlight at one end and look through to ensure things are clean; and I've almost made this mistake before myself. A guy also has to be careful if he loses one of the original plugs not to use a replacement plug that is too deep which can cause interference in the galley. Thanks again brothers Mopar Joe and Jonny 😅💪👏👏👏
I always check with a dowel down the sending unit hole. I have one already marked at the proper depth for the plug. Also on BBs, people leave the pipe plug out below the cam gear that points down to the pan. Have seen that TWICE!! No oil pressure, so they were never driven, and one was not started, just failed to prime. They both survived, and the one that was only primed and not started, ran a 6.9000 in the 1/8th it's very first pass (440, .590 Purple Shaft, 906 heads, TeamG intake with 1050 Dominator, 2" fenderwells, 74 Dart Sport with 4.88 8.75 and J-converter) with a deer-in-headlights novice owner/driver. LMAO
Excellent! That was the case with that blue Roadrunner in had in. They drove laps around the neighborhood trying to get it to prime 😳. It didn’t happen 😢
Great tutorial and valuable information. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. It's all about attention to detail for a successful build, no matter what you're working on.
😎👍. will have to check my LA 360 I took out of the truck a few years back . I would have good oil pressure but after a while it would lose oil pressure when warmed up. the crank bearings started showing copper and had the oil groove all the way around so that didn't help either.
As much as we think we know, it never hurts to be reminded of the obvious. Thanks for the reminder. As expensive as parts and machine work are, it really hurts when we ruin an engine by forgetting the obvious.
There is also a drive in welsh plug that goes in from the bottom under the rear main cap. It directs the oil pump output to the filter, if it isnt in the oil will never flow through the filter. It is in the passage under the oil sending unit port.
Oh man, such a simple overlooked oops. I can honestly say that we have all done an oops like that. Anyone who says otherwise is either a liar or never touched a wrench, haha! Hell my worst oops was breaking a compression ring and never noticing it until after it broke in the cam. Sad times!
A very good tip indeed Joe. I can see where that inner plug to the lifter oil galley could possibly be missed during a build. Cudos. Is this only on the 360 or 340 as well?
Ya know something, I believe it was last year or 2 years ago, Uncle Tony brought a back yard rebuild 318 to Nick's Garage to brake in a new cam and get some numbers. The oil pressure kept dropping, and Nick pulled the pan and oil pump and besides having a lot of debris in the filter, everything seemed alright. I wonder 🤔...
Lunar still had that engine. I believe Nick found out that the engine had .010 bearings on a very rough standard crank. It ran, but kept losing oil pressure for me the extreme clearance. It also had terrible blow by because they power honed one cylinder with a three stone hone trying to take the extreme ring groove out.
I had a bad valve on the rear passenger side of the engine replaced the cylinder head and now I have excessive blow By smoke out of the muffler. Is this normal will it eventually stopped once it burns all the oil out of the cylinder or or can it possibly be out of time and that's the reason why it's smoking again
Your thoughts on the oil modifications shown on other channels where they block off one side and drill and tap the oil passages in the lifter valley and run a tube from one side to the other? Good thing to do or bad thing to do?
I like to remove it and brush that out. Especially in a sludged up engine that ram Quaker state or pennsoil. A hot tank will help, but it won’t eat that heavy stuff all the way out. I think it’s a smaller plug than standard, but they’re usually in the headache kit.
Had a ticking noise on my 78 360 pulled push rods out on passenger side the push rod at the front of engine half of the ball is gone and the rocker is very black. Really not sure what happened.
You’re welcome and thank you Joe. It took awhile and some sharp helpers from Facebook to figure out that oil pressure loss route cause. I was close to pulling the engine. Thanks god it got figured out before all that work.
Great find, buddy!
Excellent tip Joe! Ive seen this plug forgotten before just like the one that goes in the front of FE Fords. Theres another one that gets forgotten a lot and the end result is even worse... It goes under the rear main cap. I'd make a video but I don't have a small block apart at the moment. Maybe yours is still apart? Edit: then I proceed to read the comments and see this was already pointed out by other Mopar people! LOL!
Thanks, Tony! I will show it during the build up video.
Great info Joe, Thanks for sharing this and a big thanks to @JonnyMopar for bringing this to your attention. Glad he got this figured out. All the Best !
Thanks Brother!
Windage tray bolts, NICE!!!
Yes sir
Great Tech Joe.
Some people never pull that plug.
That is definitely not good as you can't clean the oil gallerie..
Block looks very nice Joe.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ed! She will be all together soon and making steam
Great reminder Joe! Glad it got figured out and more so, glad it was able to be sorted without pulling the engine. And of course, the visuals are most helpful!
Thanks Terry!
Most important info on this engine!!!!
Cool Save!!
🫡
Good video and making "Awareness". Maybe something like this is what happened to the 383 ..... We'll know some day when I tare it down. I firmly believe it had a flatten cam when I bought it.
Thank you, Tim. Good morning mopar people!
Great coverage, Joe. Big thanks to JonnyMopar for shedding some light on it.. I have seen these plugs with a tiny hole drilled in them for oiling the distributor shaft bushing. I don't know if that was really needed, but figured, as small as that hole was, it probably didn't hurt!
Thanks Steve
This oil plug arrangement is also the same on early Chrysler hemi's , and probably all of the Mopar rear distributer varieties from the 1950's .
I wasn't involved with the oil galleries when my dad overhauled the engine in the car in my profile. It probably has the inner plug also like you said.
That will be a good runner, with Ed is doing some of the work on it. 👍👍👍
I think so too. He’s got the heads looking really nice.
That's great advice Sir! ESPECIALLY for a clod like myself!
Thanks Big Mike
Glad to be back and I am glad you are doing this about that, a newer Mopar buff might not know about that one and as you said I don't remember you ever mentioning that in any of your building videos. Great evening and enjoy your day tomorrow. Again awesome post , glad you are doing it to ensure that someone doesn't miss this or forgets to clean it out, etc. Good evening and enjoy your night JMJ.
Thanks, John. Have a good week.
This really is a great tip for all the guys out there. Thank goodness for great machine shops that generally save our bacon a lot of the time! I too have had those already installed by shops...i think for the very reason that Jonny just dealt with. I'm alot like you Joe, I want to be able to put a flashlight at one end and look through to ensure things are clean; and I've almost made this mistake before myself. A guy also has to be careful if he loses one of the original plugs not to use a replacement plug that is too deep which can cause interference in the galley. Thanks again brothers Mopar Joe and Jonny 😅💪👏👏👏
Very good point! Thanks Ryan
Great tip, Joe!
Thanks Don!
Thanks for sharing this tip
Great info Joe!👍
Thanks buddy
I always check with a dowel down the sending unit hole. I have one already marked at the proper depth for the plug. Also on BBs, people leave the pipe plug out below the cam gear that points down to the pan. Have seen that TWICE!! No oil pressure, so they were never driven, and one was not started, just failed to prime. They both survived, and the one that was only primed and not started, ran a 6.9000 in the 1/8th it's very first pass (440, .590 Purple Shaft, 906 heads, TeamG intake with 1050 Dominator, 2" fenderwells, 74 Dart Sport with 4.88 8.75 and J-converter) with a deer-in-headlights novice owner/driver. LMAO
Excellent! That was the case with that blue Roadrunner in had in. They drove laps around the neighborhood trying to get it to prime 😳. It didn’t happen 😢
Great tutorial and valuable information. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. It's all about attention to detail for a successful build, no matter what you're working on.
Thanks Terry!
That’s interesting . I couldn’t tell you the flow of oil thru an engine and sure wouldn’t know if a plug was missing . Thanks for teaching me
See ya soon 👍🏼
Not a small block guy but will definitely keep this in mind for my friends who do run small blocks
Thanks brother! It’s a sneaky one
Great information, i can see someone misplacing that plug and forget all about it.
Quick issue for sure
😎👍. will have to check my LA 360 I took out of the truck a few years back . I would have good oil pressure but after a while it would lose oil pressure when warmed up. the crank bearings started showing copper and had the oil groove all the way around so that didn't help either.
Oh man!
Good info
Thanks brother
Nice info to know
Thanks brother
Great tip to avoid trouble!!
I wonder if my 318 Poly in my late father's 1958 Plymouth Suburban is configured the same way?
I would bet it is. They have many similarities.
It’s amazing that the gauge showed pressure because you know the engine wasn’t getting much
Absolutely. We know they leak enough oil as is internally
you can also put a .020-.030 hole in the center of that plug and you get pressurized oil to the distributor drive gear and helps them live longer.
Thanks buddy. I knew about the one for the timing chain.
As much as we think we know, it never hurts to be reminded of the obvious. Thanks for the reminder. As expensive as parts and machine work are, it really hurts when we ruin an engine by forgetting the obvious.
Great point! Could have been a rushed job. Stuff happens to the best sometimes.
There is also a drive in welsh plug that goes in from the bottom under the rear main cap. It directs the oil pump output to the filter, if it isnt in the oil will never flow through the filter. It is in the passage under the oil sending unit port.
Yes sir. I can show that in the build video. “Rodney Byrd” and “Mopars are Everything” made a reference to that. Thanks Richard.
Oh man, such a simple overlooked oops. I can honestly say that we have all done an oops like that. Anyone who says otherwise is either a liar or never touched a wrench, haha! Hell my worst oops was breaking a compression ring and never noticing it until after it broke in the cam. Sad times!
Ouch!
A very good tip indeed Joe. I can see where that inner plug to the lifter oil galley could possibly be missed during a build. Cudos. Is this only on the 360 or 340 as well?
BTW, I sure would like to see some new video of your Challenger.
Challenger comes back soon! Im trying to get the racecar perfect for NNN. The plug is in all LA engines.
Some older, Pontiac, and Oldsmobile engines have similar oil plugs as well.
Great point!
Ya know something, I believe it was last year or 2 years ago, Uncle Tony brought a back yard rebuild 318 to Nick's Garage to brake in a new cam and get some numbers. The oil pressure kept dropping, and Nick pulled the pan and oil pump and besides having a lot of debris in the filter, everything seemed alright. I wonder 🤔...
Lunar still had that engine. I believe Nick found out that the engine had .010 bearings on a very rough standard crank. It ran, but kept losing oil pressure for me the extreme clearance. It also had terrible blow by because they power honed one cylinder with a three stone hone trying to take the extreme ring groove out.
I had a bad valve on the rear passenger side of the engine replaced the cylinder head and now I have excessive blow By smoke out of the muffler. Is this normal will it eventually stopped once it burns all the oil out of the cylinder or or can it possibly be out of time and that's the reason why it's smoking again
Good to know
Thanks brother
Jonny is good Mopar People! 🦶🏾good til Joe.
Haha!
I drill plug with a 32nd drill to put oil on pump gear and bushing
Man, when did you start watching my old slow projects! LOL Thanks Doc!
Your thoughts on the oil modifications shown on other channels where they block off one side and drill and tap the oil passages in the lifter valley and run a tube from one side to the other? Good thing to do or bad thing to do?
I think it's a solid idea for high rpm stuff. I can't really afford the heads to flow the high numbers over 6,500 rpm.
Interesting.
It’d be an easy fix if left out, but sure would be bad news if ran for long
How common is it to remove that plug? I mean...hot tank and machine shop maybe? Or? Probably a pipe plug right?
I like to remove it and brush that out. Especially in a sludged up engine that ram Quaker state or pennsoil. A hot tank will help, but it won’t eat that heavy stuff all the way out. I think it’s a smaller plug than standard, but they’re usually in the headache kit.
Had a ticking noise on my 78 360 pulled push rods out on passenger side the push rod at the front of engine half of the ball is gone and the rocker is very black. Really not sure what happened.
Wow man!
Great informative professional infoMoparforMoPowernationest lol!! Looks like you got a klien flashlight lol,.so.wjeres the olight???
Thanks brother! The olight lives in my truck. Sometimes it’s so bright that it doesn’t show up on my camera!
@@JustMoparJoe lol so the olight it's been good to ya so far I assume lol!??
👍💪
Thanks brother!
😎💣
👍🏼
🤦🏼👍🏻🇦🇺
Thanks brother