I raced a Super Stock Duster back in 1973. I had my block modified by the Ramchargers in Detroit with the copper tubes installed and drilled. I ran my engine to 7,600 rpm. After a few seasons, my bearings looked like brand new. Absolutely no scratches or scuffs. Rods and mains. Best way to modify your LA engines. My car was the National Record Holder in HA/2 AHRA. Good luck with your racing.
You got it covered pretty good. Your eliminating 16 oil leaks and turning it into a priority main oiling block. If your running pushrod oiling bush the lifter bores idc what anyone says it's the only way 💯. The tubes will wear out and eventually leak again. I just bush everything myself but it's a cost thing. I went 8 years 1000s of laps on my last engine between rebuilds. Before you put it back together work on oil drainback and keeping it from draining back onto the crank. That's probably the most time consuming mod I do seems to help the most. Don't listen to the drag racers at all they don't live in the same world. Focus on keeping the oil where it belongs along with the rest of the mods you covered 👌
Where I screwed up on my magnum block was having the oil return onto the crank so I’ll resolve that before it goes together. Yea it is funny how the drag guys talk about going through the traps at 7000 rpm.
Another really good oiling mod is to take the galley plug out directly in front of the distributor drive and put a 020 hole in the center of it and put it back in that will pressurize oil directly on the distributor drive gear and if you're running a high volume oil pump it will definitely keep the life and wear to an absolute minimum on the cam gear and distributor drive.
You should show drilling the rear main cap to 1/2" feom where you chamfered the inlet hole. I run the 1/2" bit down those oil filter feed and return lines. I also prefer using lifter bushings to the tube set-up. It does cost money, but it solves a lot of problems. Use a fully fluted drill bit if possible when drilling those main feeds. The chips can stack up on a partial fluted bit. Ask me how I know. I have an R1 block with 3" of 5/16" drill bit broke off inside. You will want to clean the devil out of your block before assembly. I use a mixture of solvent and penetrating oil, so the block doesn't flash rust on me. I have the Goodson engine brush kit that allows me to clean EVERY passage in the block. I rinse it with the solvent and oil mixture after I run the brushes. Good job on the basics of oiling mods. Jody Cash has videos on the tubing also that you might want to watch.
Hey, I did a couple mopar small block oil system mod videos on my channel. Feel free to look em over. The playlist is Jon's 360 Slightly different than your mods but I am familiar with your mods as well. Best of luck!
@@beckbuilt3209 thank you very much. I've wanted to do the lifter gallery tube sleeves you're doing but didn't feel the need for my hp and rpm levels. But I think I'll be doing them in conjunction with the cross over tube system I use. They say, the more oil control you can do, the better it'll live. Good work man 🤘🏼
I'm missing a chunk out of my lifter gallery area I think is what it's called it's that cast iron that the lifter set in. But it's weird it is in the back it almost looks like someone had a chain hooked up to it to install the motor and it broke I'm not having any issues out of it I don't think. But it is kind of on I do not see it in the engine anywhere as well
@beckbuilt3209 id Ike your opinion on rod bearings I've git a 83 318LA engine bored 30 over and it was recently rebuilt nut they put a standard volume oil pump in I'm gkinh in sn putting a high volume pump in while in there I'm going to inspect rod bearings I have a feeling tgey didn't ask in very well the crank kit was a tured crank 20 rods 20 mains cold stsrt 65 PSI drive it a hour at 65 mph pull off interstate an oil pso when idling in gear is modt times 20 PSI sometimes 18 its idling in gear at about 759 to 800 rpms.whrn oil preasure is this low I'm guessing clearance opens up too much once engine is bern run a hour at 65 mph an it is a full size van eth a 723 torque flight them transmission was built when interstate speeds was no more tgan 55mph not 65 an 75 so high rpm at those speeds hour or mote st tines is stressing out my oil I also am now running valvoline vr1 10w30 and almost a whole quart of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer anyway MY MAIN QUESTION TO YOU IS CLEVITE ABD KING ROD BEARINGS DO NOT HAVE THE NOTCH CUT IN THEM TO SLING OUL UP ON CYLINDER WALLS DO U FERL ITS CRUCIL TO GO BACK WTH BEARINGS WTH OIL SLING NOTCH TYOE BEARINGS OR DO YOU THINK POSSIBLY THESE ROD BEARING COMPANIES TGST ARD MSKINH ROD BEARINGS WITOUY THE OIL NOTCH HAVE REALIZED MABY IT WAS A MISTAKE TO PUT A BOTH IN BEARINGS TGST ITS CAUSING A LOSS OF OIL PREASURE AN THSTS EHY THEY STOPPRD PUTTING NOTCHES IN CLEVITE AND KING BEARINGS IM RUNNING ROD BEARINGS WTH THE OIL NOTCH I WAS JUST WONDERING WHAT YOUR THOUGHTS WERE AN WGAT TYOE ASWELL AS WHAT BRWND ROD BEARINGS YOU WOULD PUT BACK IN A FRESHLY BUILT 318LA ENGINE IT HAS APPROXIMATELY 3000 MILES ON IT D8NCE IT WAS BUILT AN ITS NEVER CHANGED OIL PREASURE IT 65 PSI COLD START AN LIKE I DSID RUN IT LIKE A HOUR ON INTERSTATE AT 65 TO 75 MPH AN PULL OFF LESVE IT IN GESR IDLING ST 750 TO 800 RPMS ITS 20 SOME T8MES 18 PSI BUT U LET IT COOL OFF AN OUL PREASURE WILL BE UP TO 30 IN HALF HOUR AN DRIVING AROUND TIWN HALF A DAY 35 MABY 40 MPH OIL PSI NEVER DROPS BELOW 30 IT LIKE TGRM HIGH INTERSTATE SPEEDS AN RMPS UP FIR HOURS AT A TIME GETS ENGINE WARNER TGSN ANOTHER TIMES DRIVING IT AN TGSTA ONLY TIMES OIL PREASURE IS BELOW 30 BUT PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR THOUGHTS ON WHAT TYOE ROD BEARINGS I SHOULD GO BACK WTH ONES ETH OIL NOTCH OR ONES WITHOUT OIL NOTCH AND BEING THID IS MY FULL TIME ONLY VEHICLE AND IT ALSO IS MY HOME YELP ITS FULLY OFF GRID I WAS IN A MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENT IN 2019 DIES TWICE IN MED FLIGHT LOST A LUNG 80 PERCENT BLIND IN ONE EYE FROM STROKE I HAD WHEN I WOKE UP AT THE ACCIDENT AN WENT THROUGH 7 RECONSTRUCTIVE OPERATIONS THEN TOLD ID MOST LIKLY NEVER WALK AGAIN WELL IM WALKING ALSO BI METAL OR TRI METAL ITS GONNA SEE A TON OF INTERSTATE MILES IM NOW DISABLED AN INTEND ON SPENDING WHSTS LEFT OF MY LIFE TRAVELING THE U.S. AN ENJOY LIFE LOVE THE INDEPTH VIDEOS U DO I WAS A FULL TIME MECHANIC BEFORE MY ACCIDENT AN BECAME DISABLED I STILL DO MY OWN MECHANIC WORK THWNKS FIR ANY ADVICE IN ADVANCE AN I AM NOW A,SUBSCRIBER
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I raced a Super Stock Duster back in 1973. I had my block modified by the Ramchargers in Detroit with the copper tubes installed and drilled. I ran my engine to 7,600 rpm. After a few seasons, my bearings looked like brand new. Absolutely no scratches or scuffs. Rods and mains. Best way to modify your LA engines. My car was the National Record Holder in HA/2 AHRA. Good luck with your racing.
I hope it works out as well for me as it did for you.
You got it covered pretty good. Your eliminating 16 oil leaks and turning it into a priority main oiling block. If your running pushrod oiling bush the lifter bores idc what anyone says it's the only way 💯. The tubes will wear out and eventually leak again. I just bush everything myself but it's a cost thing. I went 8 years 1000s of laps on my last engine between rebuilds. Before you put it back together work on oil drainback and keeping it from draining back onto the crank. That's probably the most time consuming mod I do seems to help the most. Don't listen to the drag racers at all they don't live in the same world. Focus on keeping the oil where it belongs along with the rest of the mods you covered 👌
Where I screwed up on my magnum block was having the oil return onto the crank so I’ll resolve that before it goes together. Yea it is funny how the drag guys talk about going through the traps at 7000 rpm.
Another really good oiling mod is to take the galley plug out directly in front of the distributor drive and put a 020 hole in the center of it and put it back in that will pressurize oil directly on the distributor drive gear and if you're running a high volume oil pump it will definitely keep the life and wear to an absolute minimum on the cam gear and distributor drive.
With this setup that would be impossible, I don’t see a lot of wear on distributor gears so I would not create another leak for that.
You should show drilling the rear main cap to 1/2" feom where you chamfered the inlet hole. I run the 1/2" bit down those oil filter feed and return lines. I also prefer using lifter bushings to the tube set-up. It does cost money, but it solves a lot of problems.
Use a fully fluted drill bit if possible when drilling those main feeds. The chips can stack up on a partial fluted bit. Ask me how I know. I have an R1 block with 3" of 5/16" drill bit broke off inside.
You will want to clean the devil out of your block before assembly. I use a mixture of solvent and penetrating oil, so the block doesn't flash rust on me. I have the Goodson engine brush kit that allows me to clean EVERY passage in the block. I rinse it with the solvent and oil mixture after I run the brushes.
Good job on the basics of oiling mods. Jody Cash has videos on the tubing also that you might want to watch.
Nice
Thank you
Hey, I did a couple mopar small block oil system mod videos on my channel. Feel free to look em over. The playlist is Jon's 360 Slightly different than your mods but I am familiar with your mods as well. Best of luck!
I’ve watched your video many times over the years. Great information
@@beckbuilt3209 thank you very much. I've wanted to do the lifter gallery tube sleeves you're doing but didn't feel the need for my hp and rpm levels. But I think I'll be doing them in conjunction with the cross over tube system I use. They say, the more oil control you can do, the better it'll live. Good work man 🤘🏼
I think you need the direct port injection the curry losi needs a fast nitro motor
I’m slightly confused
I'm missing a chunk out of my lifter gallery area I think is what it's called it's that cast iron that the lifter set in. But it's weird it is in the back it almost looks like someone had a chain hooked up to it to install the motor and it broke I'm not having any issues out of it I don't think. But it is kind of on I do not see it in the engine anywhere as well
It’s not going to hurt anything
A letter K drill bit is .281 . I don’t know where they’re getting .283 ?
Yea I thought it was very odd, had me scratching my head
Have you heard of these clogging the catalytic converter in the causing the exhaust valve to burn
Never had anything with a converter on it, so no
Man i am too chicken to drill on my block..
There’s plenty of them out there, if you mess up you’ll learn from it.
If you don't increase the main galley from the filter, non of your mods will matter.
You are 100% incorrect, if you fix holes in a hose you don’t get more water at the end of the hose?
@beckbuilt3209 id Ike your opinion on rod bearings I've git a 83 318LA engine bored 30 over and it was recently rebuilt nut they put a standard volume oil pump in I'm gkinh in sn putting a high volume pump in while in there I'm going to inspect rod bearings I have a feeling tgey didn't ask in very well the crank kit was a tured crank 20 rods 20 mains cold stsrt 65 PSI drive it a hour at 65 mph pull off interstate an oil pso when idling in gear is modt times 20 PSI sometimes 18 its idling in gear at about 759 to 800 rpms.whrn oil preasure is this low I'm guessing clearance opens up too much once engine is bern run a hour at 65 mph an it is a full size van eth a 723 torque flight them transmission was built when interstate speeds was no more tgan 55mph not 65 an 75 so high rpm at those speeds hour or mote st tines is stressing out my oil I also am now running valvoline vr1 10w30 and almost a whole quart of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer anyway
MY MAIN QUESTION TO YOU IS CLEVITE ABD KING ROD BEARINGS DO NOT HAVE THE NOTCH CUT IN THEM TO SLING OUL UP ON CYLINDER WALLS DO U FERL ITS CRUCIL TO GO BACK WTH BEARINGS WTH OIL SLING NOTCH TYOE BEARINGS OR DO YOU THINK POSSIBLY THESE ROD BEARING COMPANIES TGST ARD MSKINH ROD BEARINGS WITOUY THE OIL NOTCH HAVE REALIZED MABY IT WAS A MISTAKE TO PUT A BOTH IN BEARINGS TGST ITS CAUSING A LOSS OF OIL PREASURE AN THSTS EHY THEY STOPPRD PUTTING NOTCHES IN CLEVITE AND KING BEARINGS IM RUNNING ROD BEARINGS WTH THE OIL NOTCH I WAS JUST WONDERING WHAT YOUR THOUGHTS WERE AN WGAT TYOE ASWELL AS WHAT BRWND ROD BEARINGS YOU WOULD PUT BACK IN A FRESHLY BUILT 318LA ENGINE IT HAS APPROXIMATELY 3000 MILES ON IT D8NCE IT WAS BUILT AN ITS NEVER CHANGED OIL PREASURE IT 65 PSI COLD START AN LIKE I DSID RUN IT LIKE A HOUR ON INTERSTATE AT 65 TO 75 MPH AN PULL OFF LESVE IT IN GESR IDLING ST 750 TO 800 RPMS ITS 20 SOME T8MES 18 PSI BUT U LET IT COOL OFF AN OUL PREASURE WILL BE UP TO 30 IN HALF HOUR AN DRIVING AROUND TIWN HALF A DAY 35 MABY 40 MPH OIL PSI NEVER DROPS BELOW 30 IT LIKE TGRM HIGH INTERSTATE SPEEDS AN RMPS UP FIR HOURS AT A TIME GETS ENGINE WARNER TGSN ANOTHER TIMES DRIVING IT AN TGSTA ONLY TIMES OIL PREASURE IS BELOW 30 BUT PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR THOUGHTS ON WHAT TYOE ROD BEARINGS I SHOULD GO BACK WTH ONES ETH OIL NOTCH OR ONES WITHOUT OIL NOTCH AND BEING THID IS MY FULL TIME ONLY VEHICLE AND IT ALSO IS MY HOME YELP ITS FULLY OFF GRID I WAS IN A MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENT IN 2019 DIES TWICE IN MED FLIGHT LOST A LUNG 80 PERCENT BLIND IN ONE EYE FROM STROKE I HAD WHEN I WOKE UP AT THE ACCIDENT AN WENT THROUGH 7 RECONSTRUCTIVE OPERATIONS THEN TOLD ID MOST LIKLY NEVER WALK AGAIN WELL IM WALKING ALSO BI METAL OR TRI METAL ITS GONNA SEE A TON OF INTERSTATE MILES IM NOW DISABLED AN INTEND ON SPENDING WHSTS LEFT OF MY LIFE TRAVELING THE U.S. AN ENJOY LIFE LOVE THE INDEPTH VIDEOS U DO I WAS A FULL TIME MECHANIC BEFORE MY ACCIDENT AN BECAME DISABLED I STILL DO MY OWN MECHANIC WORK THWNKS FIR ANY ADVICE IN ADVANCE AN I AM NOW A,SUBSCRIBER
Maybe if you ran some rotella t this wouldn’t happen put rotella t in my ex wife’s Malibu haven’t had to change the oil for the last 30k miles
The extra zinc content doubles as sunblock