Grew up on GM predominantly Chevy. Love em, I really do. But I went to the dark side and discovered SBFs are where it’s at. Just wish I had the money to throw my knowledge at one. * A&P licensed aircraft mechanic. A high compression(14:1), big bore 4.125” bore with 3.25”stroke would scream. Run it on Holley efi through 4150 style throttle body, dual plane RPM gap edelbrock. Feed into some AFR 185 heads, stepped headers and of course, the appropriately spec’d camshaft. About 110lsa with a 106 intake centerline. Top it off with plug on coil ignition, and timing belt converted. Mathematically, that would be bullet proof.
I'm 36 and even my dad hadn't seen a push rod since his apprenticeship. That's here in the UK. But you can't nock the us for making what worked work well. The after market there is amazing. Love it 😁
@@johnherbold6539 yeh that engine did soldier on. Mainly thanks to the rover group having nothing to replace it until they teamed up with BMW. Then they got BMW v8s in the land rovers/range rovers which had a petrol V8. The rover V8 I don't think was very popular at the end of its life (90s?) As petrol got more expensive and it only had 200hp which wasn't very impressive after the 80s 😂. I don't know anyone that tunes them. TVR really pushed them before switching to a straight 6. I've never seen one in a drift car or anything over here. They just don't make power... Not like your v8s!
@@jesterokjones4954 it's cool that they are still able to make the technology work. I'd love to have a tinker with a push rod engine. I'm used to tuning ohc and trying to get them to rev. I suppose it's a totally different approach with big displacement v8s (big here is anything over 2 litres and most road cars now are under 1.4L we don't get many big engines sadly 😂🥺)
@@realstreetperformance it's a brilliant bit of education. We don't have a big drag scene here in the UK so your whole channel is fascinating. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Building a 8.2 deck drag and drive turbo engine at the moment ( big bore Ford Performance Boss block ) so this video was great to watch ! Got to love the sound of a high revving pushrod motor 💪🏻
The MAN O War is a World Products block (6 bolts for each cylinder) Dart makes two style blocks, The Iron Eagle (premium) The SRP Sportsman (cheaper) I am sure the OP just forgot
Dart actually makes 3 blocks the Iron Eagle (top tier block), Sportsman block (middle tier) and SHP Block ("entry level" tier) shp stands for Special High Performance and even though the SHP is considered the "entry level" block by Dart they can handle 1,200 hp. Even the SHP is far superior to a production Ford block.
Loved this video and kind of content, but I’m pretty sure that version of a small block Ford Dart block is called an Iron Eagle block. The Man O’ War small block Ford was made by World Products. Both are good blocks. 👍🇺🇸👍🇺🇸👍🇺🇸👍
Pablo was interested in seeing the contrast between some real iron and a pop-can based Honda motor. I bet he sprouted some hairs on his chest after having his hands on that lump.
Its still pretty cool tech. I like the fact that Nascar engines in 2006 had more or less the same BMEP and BSFC as the F1 engines of the time is just incredible. The cup engines revved to 10 000 with peak power of 825 Hp at 9000 rpm and 520 lbs/ft at 7500 rpm. With mean piston speeds around the same as the 20 000 rpm F1 engine and peak speeds higher (with much longer rods and heavier piston/rod assembly). On a "simple" two valve push rod engine with carburetor! Just plain amazing and speak volumes to the sucess of this pretty humble design. =)
Brake Specific Fuel Consumption and Piston speed have zero to do with power output of an engine. As the F1 engine was miniscule in comparison to a Cup engine and had power outputs of at least as much it signifies that those measures are irrelevant. Max VE is a much more relevant measure of engine design efficiency as it demonstrates how primitive and inefficient a pushrod type engine truly is. This thinking is why American manufacturers can still sell obviously inferior engine designs and still get away with it. The pushrod V8 is a dinosaur and should be replaced but too many of us Americans equate more iron to better product. 35 yr Senior Master ASE speaking that has worked on all types and just recognizes the best product.
@@matthewmoilanen787 if you check out the article from 2008 by Jack Kane in the race engine technology magazine where he compared the 2006 nascar cup engine with the 2007 F1 engine you will see that all the comparative numbers between these engines are very close. Its nothing short of amazing. For as you say the pushrod engine is a ”much inferior” engine design. 🙂
I’ve dreamed all my life of owning a engine like that but it’s just an unattainable goal unfortunately for me at this point in time maybe one day if I work hard enough Jay, you are an inspiration. Thank you for your knowledge and making these videos.
I got lucky I got a stock 302ho from a purchase my father made before I was born and the car was sold so I kept the engine and transmission I've decided to do a turbo setup (age and cash flow can't support doing na) and making it my pride and joy when I find a chassis
Yes this is high end engine build. I build engines for a living. I road race against expensive European and Japanese imports with a live axle Fox platform. I am very competitive with the supposedly “superior “ imports. It is Bull sh-t unless it is ultimate professional series. I built a 331c.i. Explorer 5.0 block making 450 h.p. To the wheels for less than 4k. Yes I assembled the engine but had the machine work done at my shop. (We have a rule no working on your own engine. Must be done by another tech. We do get a discount.) If you understand that most amateur racing series use tires that are not optimal for all out racing and how to set up a live axle one can build a domestic to run an defeat the “ultimate driving machine’s”. I twist the motor to 8k with no issues. Balancing the motor, quality porting and the right cam shaft is the key. I run a holley 900cfm Holley carb and home ported GT40 iron heads and Vitor Jr. intake. Also think about this. A 5 litre Explorer motor is the same weight as a 2.5 BMW engine with an aluminum head. All the B.S. about domestic engines reliability issues are lies. But….if it is on the internet it has got to be true right? Research. The Ford 302 small block is very good and half the price of import engines at the same weight.
@@dohcsmr1175 I'd love to hear how you'd do it I'm doing a stock rebuild with refreshed everything and some minor upgrades like rockers and a cam and a home port job because of the budget as much as possible is being done by myself I would love a 6700rpm limiter and I'm shooting for just 500whp it's also a stock mustang 302 ho block from 88
@@njdorset1050 To get 500whp at less than 7k rpm you will need Cubic inches and better heads than GT40’s. Hear is what My build consists of. It is not anything special except for cam and head work. 1. Rotating assembly. Forged crank, (Eagle) rods (eagle) and forged Aluminum pistons (sealed Power) balanced with harmonic dampener and Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel. 11.6 C.R. 333 c.i. 2. Main cap girdle, (Canton) Clevite bearing kit and ARP bolt kit for 302. Plus a road race oil pan and pick up with windage trey. (I had these from prior build. Canton) 3. Oil reducers for the top end to keep oil under control. 4. De burred block!!!!! Be diligent with this!!! This is how crack and splits start. Also opened up ALL oil returns from block and heads. 5. Melling high volume oil pump witch I blueprinted. 6. GT40 iron heads from 95 Cobra. This is were I spent the most money. 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust with 8mm stems (AFR) Ported to 286cfm intake 198cfm exhaust at .600 lift. Shaved the heads to bring combustion CC to 56 cc’s. 7. Edlebrock Victor Jr. Intake ported and matched to the heads. Had to reduce China rail thickness because of the head shaving. 8. STOCK 1985 H.O. Distributor with an MSD chipped to 8250 rpm. 9. 900cfm Holley carb road race prepared. 10. Custom made 1 and 3/4 in headers. (I made and fabbed them. ) with wide band O2 sensors to keep tabs on AFR. 11. Custom grind cam from my years of racing. I will not give out specs. (Solid roller cam) Comp cams solid roller lifters. 12 Jessel full competition roller rockers with 1.7 ratio. A LOT OF SPRING PRESSURE!! It took me 3 weeks to assemble in my garage. After I put the engine in the car I took the car to a Dyno shop. 453hp at 7300rpm to the wheels. I have 4 seasons on the motor. I adjust the valves twice a year. Best of luck to you.
What was said @20:50 really spoke deep.. I've got two cars that I've owned for over 10 years now, and the trajectory of my life would be completely different if it wasn't for that. Crazy to think about.. Good to see you still held onto that car after all these years!
I can't believe what you guys are getting out of a coyote engine platform. To see these 60 80 100,000$ engine builds to get to the same or a little better horse power is just crazy. I think a lot of people will be using coyote platform just from what you've accomplished. Great job!
Greetings from the uk 🇬🇧. Watch many of your videos and really enjoyed this one, great to hear about your background. I am not a Ford guy, but keep the car and hand it down to your kids! This car built a business
Jay you said that you’ve “never really worked with pushrods before” but your overall knowledge of the OEM valve trains along with the aftermarket upgrades is quite impressive. I especially like your methodical approach to precision engine building and the amazing finished engine is proof of your expertise. Pablo seems like a good boy but I hope he learned more than just how to use your engine stand as a foot rest 🤷♂️. Your patience is commendable 🏁.
"Pretty awesome", is an understatement! I bought my 93 Cobra in 2000 and left college with a degree in finance, just to start school again learning to work on automobiles. That quickly progressed to precision engine building, SCCA TA-II racing, Senior Master Automotive and Diesel Technician with FoMoCo(17 years), and finally ending passionately designing, building, wiring, and delivering what the client wants. I too have my "last engine" in mind, but I'm struggling to lock down the displacement. You made very tasteful choices! The only thing I might question would be the color( Dark Ford Blue for me). LOVE the crank trigger, coil near plug, and that EYE CANDY of stack injection!!!!! All on my list...... I have questions though.....
My brother and I are building a 1971 small bumper Ford Maverick right now with a re-manufactured '69 351W short block. It's got AFR Renegade 185cc heads with 58cc chambers, Keith Black pistons (should be around 11.2:1 static compression), a Howard's Cam hydraulic flat tappet cam (297/305 advertised duration, .512/.528 lift, 109 LSA), Performer RPM Air Gap intake, Holley 750 carburetor, and custom long tube headers. Should put out around 450 to 500 HP. Its all mated up to a 3 speed toploader manual transmission and Ford 9" rear end with reinforced spring perches.
Awesome build! I'm working on collecting parts for a SBF build myself. Not quite this radical, but a high RPM screamer with maybe 525hp or so, somewhere inbetween a BOSS302 and a NASCAR engine. 3.25 stroke and 4.030 bore for 332cid/5.4L, and aluminum Cleveland heads. 750cfm mechanical secondary Summit 4100-style carb, single plane Offy intake, reproduction Cobra Jet shaker scoop. Going into a New Edge V6 Mustang, with an X pipe, glasspacks, and side dumps/boom tubes.
Ford small-block Windsor made 816 hp and 531 lb-ft from a 374ci engine equipped with wedge-style aluminum heads that still maintain the original Ford inline, 20-degree valve-angle configuration. You heard that right: No rolled-over valve angles, no Cleveland,, or Yates heads it's built off the standard Ford 302/5.0L deck height in early 2000’s but this is a good build too
I love this I can't justify building a sbf with a with itbs and going this overboard that being said all Jay's videos give me ideas in which direction to carry my build and makes me even more hype to do my turbo sbf with all this info
I believe the Jesel recommends that the nose roller on the rocker begins off-center closer to the intake side and moves to the center of the valve stem so that it is in the center when the valve spring is in most compression.
I had a flat top sbf306 with 69 Windsor heads professionally done in early ninety's 51 cc heads. Had a pretty stout cam. Bought it from my cousin that had it in an F-100 and then a foxbody. I bought it and put it in an 86 bronco. 488 gear with 38 boggers. Stock C6 with a super Street fighter torque converter. No one believed it was a small block!!!! From the sound to the way it literally just exploded no one ever believed it was a small!!! But the bad part is I could have spent half the money rebuilding it and had a brand new small block Chevy with twice the power. I love ford power but the price is definitely a disadvantage. We used to run 460 Dove blocks and then d1ve blocks and turn them into 533 or 514. But for half the price I could have built a 540 bbc. For some reason doesn't seem quite Fair LOL
I felt bad I started my build in 2012 and just putting it together this year too. 2006 Ford Boss 302 block. Lightweight billet Scat crank, H-beams, and coated diamond pistons, 2012 spec. Jegs/Kasse sbf cylinder heads with titanium valves. Going in our 289 originally equipped 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback. Beautiful engine with that Inglese stacks?! Whatever brand, very nice induction. We are using a Predator carb with a Paxton Novi 1500. That predator always made EVERYONE look more than twice! While on the 289!!
Very tasteful upgrades. Before boosting became as affordable, and all there was to pick from was Gen I small blocks. Simple but dated designs. It's cool you're sharing this with those that may have never laid their eyes on a pushrod V8.
I have a 95 Mustang that i restored on a rotisserie for 6 years. I built an aluminum Ford racing 427 to go in it. I put the best supporting parts in it that should produce 500+ whp. I'm only making like 447whp. I think it's the engine management that's holding it back. I'm using a Dyno tuned SCT chipped cobra EECIV. I want to upgrade to a MS PnP and see if i can get 500whp or more. Cool video Jay💪
I run 8 ITBs on a 452 cu. in. FE Ford. Like the BMWs, my idle is controlled by a Ford idle air valve in a Blue Thunder intake manifold. Smooth balanced idle, instant throttle response.
Really loving this honest and chill build. Not a typical murica 1000hp big block build... Oldschool tech, reference to the M5, clear and good explanations. Compliments!
I love to see this as it's all I really know, Jay did not remark on who did the piston coating. I ran into a guy that had Line To Line coatings done on a set of 4.155 Mahle slugs but he unknowingly ordered them coated to a 4.158 and tried to assemble them in a block with a standard .030 over. I bought those pistons and my machinist caught it and adjusted the bore on my block to work with that coating size, being familiar with the break-in he told me how to do get the most out of them. I know Lake Jr. must have had a comment about those ABC coatings on a used pistons!🤨😄
Hey Jay did you consider the stock 351w block found in trucks before deciding on the Man o War? Those blocks have been taken well over 800hp and they can support the cubes you have
That's not a Man o War block from World products it's a Dart block . The Man o War block has extra head bolts for all the cylinders for additional clamping! 🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
Will there be a video of this engine running. I’m interested in hearing it run. Watching you assemble the engine and describing what and the why’s of what you are doing was real interesting. Thanks for this video. I also enjoyed watching you make your record breaking run. Kind of put you in the drivers seat as it was taking place.
I love this guy's style. This video and the coyote video maybe the best informative videos I've ever seen. Thanks for taking the time so we can all see
Jay telling Pablo, you did better than the other guy when putting the pin clips 😅, hey at least there was no blood in the episode! Thanks Jay and Pablo for the video!
A C9 (1969) 351w block was cast with thicker main webs and can have 4-bolt mains on the center three added, but you'd be into Dart SHP price range at that point.
Despite the number of head bolts,Chevys warped heads a lot more than the fords if they overheated. A police car mechanic used to comment on that fact a lot and he was a big Chevy guy.
If you ran a SBC warm the heads cracked by the center two cylinders. I saw a interesting video years ago on Nretv. A dude built a 4 valve per cylinder set of heads with the even exhaust port layout to go on old school SBC. They did three chassis Dyno pulls for the average on stock motor/ head. Then they swapped heads only and did three pulls for the average. I want to say it picked up over 100 HP just for the heads. Only crazy thing was one pushrod operated two valves. Craziest rocker arms ever.
I've built many Hipo 289's if your going to put that much time and care In to it paint the inside of the thing with Glypol paint makes the oil run back faster and it gives a professional look to your SB. I go so far as to do the inside of the valve covers, bottom of the intake and the heads. Good stuff nice build you have.
Old technology? Ford was making dual overhead cam engines in the 60's. That oil pump drive killed my 408 Windsor in the 90's. Solid roller cam, not paying attention in traffic, parked it at home and the next time I started it... expensive lesson learned. Everything had an oil pressure warning light after that. This was a fun build to watch. Takes me back to all the stuff we were doing when I was a high school idiot in the 80's.
I have heard that because ford had 2 different firing orders for the 302 , the 1/5 firing order is hard on the front main bearing that's why they crack and break. 1/3 fireing order is a better firing order less stress on the block.
Nice build ! What cam are You using and did You degree it in ? Interested in seeing the power numbers on the Dyno. Please keep Us updated on Your progress! Thanks 🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
I watch this/these videos before bed simply to dream about a parts list I’ll never be able to buy!!! lmao Just looking/waiting for the S/M50-52 BMW platform to make it onto the channel
I have a 68 Mustang fuel injected 438windsor 12:1 compression, e85, Xr292r street solid roller cam, super victor intake, 4k stall full manual th400, 410 gears, 1 3/4 headers and it made 525wheel and runs 9's all motor, spins to 7200rpm and drives on street and fwy. But any bigger cam and you run into valvetrain longevity issues and less streetable. Car destroys teslas
What intake manifold is that? What were you putting onto the bearing ends of the rod before you put on the bearing shell, I always put the beari gs on dry?
How's regular street driving with the stacks? I hear it's very rough trying to just simply cruise. It looks beautiful, but would you even consider something like this for the street? Like you said small throttle openings on all 8 will completely eliminate any vacuum making it a tuning nightmare at low, part throttle.
I still play with the small block Ford in my stang. No LS here my friend
Good 👍 job bro ...from a Chevy guy ☺️
Grew up on GM predominantly Chevy. Love em, I really do. But I went to the dark side and discovered SBFs are where it’s at. Just wish I had the money to throw my knowledge at one. * A&P licensed aircraft mechanic.
A high compression(14:1), big bore 4.125” bore with 3.25”stroke would scream. Run it on Holley efi through 4150 style throttle body, dual plane RPM gap edelbrock. Feed into some AFR 185 heads, stepped headers and of course, the appropriately spec’d camshaft. About 110lsa with a 106 intake centerline. Top it off with plug on coil ignition, and timing belt converted. Mathematically, that would be bullet proof.
Never thought I'd see an SBF with Injection AND ITBs on this channel. Great engine build, appreciate the knowledge as always Jay!
Thank you!
I'm 36 and even my dad hadn't seen a push rod since his apprenticeship. That's here in the UK. But you can't nock the us for making what worked work well. The after market there is amazing. Love it 😁
You guys sure make Kent/Crossflow and Rover-Buick V8s work pretty well admittedly!
Yeah, pretty much the only thing that's still pushrod is GM's V8 group, Chrysler's V8 group and a few V6 engines, everything else is OHC design.
@@johnherbold6539 yeh that engine did soldier on. Mainly thanks to the rover group having nothing to replace it until they teamed up with BMW. Then they got BMW v8s in the land rovers/range rovers which had a petrol V8. The rover V8 I don't think was very popular at the end of its life (90s?) As petrol got more expensive and it only had 200hp which wasn't very impressive after the 80s 😂.
I don't know anyone that tunes them. TVR really pushed them before switching to a straight 6. I've never seen one in a drift car or anything over here. They just don't make power... Not like your v8s!
@@jesterokjones4954 it's cool that they are still able to make the technology work. I'd love to have a tinker with a push rod engine. I'm used to tuning ohc and trying to get them to rev. I suppose it's a totally different approach with big displacement v8s (big here is anything over 2 litres and most road cars now are under 1.4L we don't get many big engines sadly 😂🥺)
couldn’t of missed the 427Fe
Having someone used to 90s+ technology ask the questions is bloody brilliant. I love this type of video. Thanks! Bell ON
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@realstreetperformance it's a brilliant bit of education. We don't have a big drag scene here in the UK so your whole channel is fascinating. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Building a 8.2 deck drag and drive turbo engine at the moment ( big bore Ford Performance Boss block ) so this video was great to watch !
Got to love the sound of a high revving pushrod motor 💪🏻
FINALLY! Someone who puts the cam in first!
Big hp NA with ITBs right up my alley!
The MAN O War is a World Products block (6 bolts for each cylinder)
Dart makes two style blocks,
The Iron Eagle (premium)
The SRP Sportsman (cheaper)
I am sure the OP just forgot
SHP not SRP
Came here to say the same. Man-of-war is definitely not a Dart block.
Which is “better”?
Dart actually makes 3 blocks the Iron Eagle (top tier block), Sportsman block (middle tier) and SHP Block ("entry level" tier) shp stands for Special High Performance and even though the SHP is considered the "entry level" block by Dart they can handle 1,200 hp. Even the SHP is far superior to a production Ford block.
Anyone who doesn't know that, but talks like they're some kind of guru?...kind of hard to take them seriously.
actually nuts! love these videos, i could listen to Jay's stories all day!
Glad you like them!
Jay is sooo knowledgeable about engines and cars in general.
Loved this video and kind of content, but I’m pretty sure that version of a small block Ford Dart block is called an Iron Eagle block. The Man O’ War small block Ford was made by World Products. Both are good blocks. 👍🇺🇸👍🇺🇸👍🇺🇸👍
You are absolutely correct. Being a Ford guy I was wondering how quickly someone would catch that slip.😁
AND YOU ARE CORRECT. THE MAN O WAR HAS 2 EXTRA BOLTS PER CYLINDER THAT FIT THE MAN O WAR HEADS ALONG WITH THE EDELBROCK SC-1 RACE HEADS.
Pablo was interested in seeing the contrast between some real iron and a pop-can based Honda motor. I bet he sprouted some hairs on his chest after having his hands on that lump.
The Bob Ross of engine builders!
Its still pretty cool tech.
I like the fact that Nascar engines in 2006 had more or less the same BMEP and BSFC as the F1 engines of the time is just incredible.
The cup engines revved to 10 000 with peak power of 825 Hp at 9000 rpm and 520 lbs/ft at 7500 rpm. With mean piston speeds around the same as the 20 000 rpm F1 engine and peak speeds higher (with much longer rods and heavier piston/rod assembly).
On a "simple" two valve push rod engine with carburetor! Just plain amazing and speak volumes to the sucess of this pretty humble design. =)
only difference being the NASCAR engine weighed 560lbs and f1 engine was 200lbs
I think they were closer to 900 hp
@@Realtime1501And much, much smaller capacity.
Brake Specific Fuel Consumption and Piston speed have zero to do with power output of an engine. As the F1 engine was miniscule in comparison to a Cup engine and had power outputs of at least as much it signifies that those measures are irrelevant. Max VE is a much more relevant measure of engine design efficiency as it demonstrates how primitive and inefficient a pushrod type engine truly is. This thinking is why American manufacturers can still sell obviously inferior engine designs and still get away with it. The pushrod V8 is a dinosaur and should be replaced but too many of us Americans equate more iron to better product. 35 yr Senior Master ASE speaking that has worked on all types and just recognizes the best product.
@@matthewmoilanen787 if you check out the article from 2008 by Jack Kane in the race engine technology magazine where he compared the 2006 nascar cup engine with the 2007 F1 engine you will see that all the comparative numbers between these engines are very close.
Its nothing short of amazing. For as you say the pushrod engine is a ”much inferior” engine design. 🙂
Woah, never thought I’d see the day. It’s always cool to hear Jay’s thoughts about different platforms.
I’ve dreamed all my life of owning a engine like that but it’s just an unattainable goal unfortunately for me at this point in time maybe one day if I work hard enough Jay, you are an inspiration. Thank you for your knowledge and making these videos.
Same here dude. One day.
I got lucky I got a stock 302ho from a purchase my father made before I was born and the car was sold so I kept the engine and transmission I've decided to do a turbo setup (age and cash flow can't support doing na) and making it my pride and joy when I find a chassis
Yes this is high end engine build. I build engines for a living. I road race against expensive European and Japanese imports with a live axle Fox platform. I am very competitive with the supposedly “superior “ imports. It is Bull sh-t unless it is ultimate professional series. I built a 331c.i. Explorer 5.0 block making 450 h.p. To the wheels for less than 4k. Yes I assembled the engine but had the machine work done at my shop. (We have a rule no working on your own engine. Must be done by another tech. We do get a discount.) If you understand that most amateur racing series use tires that are not optimal for all out racing and how to set up a live axle one can build a domestic to run an defeat the “ultimate driving machine’s”.
I twist the motor to 8k with no issues. Balancing the motor, quality porting and the right cam shaft is the key. I run a holley 900cfm Holley carb and home ported GT40 iron heads and Vitor Jr. intake. Also think about this. A 5 litre Explorer motor is the same weight as a 2.5 BMW engine with an aluminum head. All the B.S. about domestic engines reliability issues are lies. But….if it is on the internet it has got to be true right? Research. The Ford 302 small block is very good and half the price of import engines at the same weight.
@@dohcsmr1175 I'd love to hear how you'd do it I'm doing a stock rebuild with refreshed everything and some minor upgrades like rockers and a cam and a home port job because of the budget as much as possible is being done by myself I would love a 6700rpm limiter and I'm shooting for just 500whp it's also a stock mustang 302 ho block from 88
@@njdorset1050 To get 500whp at less than 7k rpm you will need Cubic inches and better heads than GT40’s. Hear is what My build consists of. It is not anything special except for cam and head work.
1. Rotating assembly. Forged crank, (Eagle) rods (eagle) and forged Aluminum pistons (sealed Power) balanced with harmonic dampener and Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel. 11.6 C.R. 333 c.i.
2. Main cap girdle, (Canton) Clevite bearing kit and ARP bolt kit for 302. Plus a road race oil pan and pick up with windage trey. (I had these from prior build. Canton)
3. Oil reducers for the top end to keep oil under control.
4. De burred block!!!!! Be diligent with this!!! This is how crack and splits start. Also opened up ALL oil returns from block and heads.
5. Melling high volume oil pump witch I blueprinted.
6. GT40 iron heads from 95 Cobra. This is were I spent the most money. 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust with 8mm stems (AFR) Ported to 286cfm intake 198cfm exhaust at .600 lift. Shaved the heads to bring combustion CC to 56 cc’s.
7. Edlebrock Victor Jr. Intake ported and matched to the heads. Had to reduce China rail thickness because of the head shaving.
8. STOCK 1985 H.O. Distributor with an MSD chipped to 8250 rpm.
9. 900cfm Holley carb road race prepared.
10. Custom made 1 and 3/4 in headers. (I made and fabbed them. ) with wide band O2 sensors to keep tabs on AFR.
11. Custom grind cam from my years of racing. I will not give out specs. (Solid roller cam) Comp cams solid roller lifters.
12 Jessel full competition roller rockers with 1.7 ratio. A LOT OF SPRING PRESSURE!!
It took me 3 weeks to assemble in my garage. After I put the engine in the car I took the car to a Dyno shop. 453hp at 7300rpm to the wheels. I have 4 seasons on the motor. I adjust the valves twice a year. Best of luck to you.
The perfect engine. Great video. Hoping to see it go into the car and maybe dyno and tuning.
Beautiful engine, ultimate NA components, and inspiring. Love building short deck SBFs!
It sure is!
What was said @20:50 really spoke deep.. I've got two cars that I've owned for over 10 years now, and the trajectory of my life would be completely different if it wasn't for that. Crazy to think about.. Good to see you still held onto that car after all these years!
I can't believe what you guys are getting out of a coyote engine platform. To see these 60 80 100,000$ engine builds to get to the same or a little better horse power is just crazy. I think a lot of people will be using coyote platform just from what you've accomplished. Great job!
Greetings from the uk 🇬🇧. Watch many of your videos and really enjoyed this one, great to hear about your background. I am not a Ford guy, but keep the car and hand it down to your kids! This car built a business
My top 10 RUclips channels. I love listening and learning all his knowledge
Jay, you the man! More builds, please!
Jay you said that you’ve “never really worked with pushrods before” but your overall knowledge of the OEM valve trains along with the aftermarket upgrades is quite impressive. I especially like your methodical approach to precision engine building and the amazing finished engine is proof of your expertise.
Pablo seems like a good boy but I hope he learned more than just how to use your engine stand as a foot rest 🤷♂️.
Your patience is commendable 🏁.
I'm always amazed at how older designs with the help of modern parts can perform at a level never dreamed about back when I was in my teens.
"Pretty awesome", is an understatement!
I bought my 93 Cobra in 2000 and left college with a degree in finance, just to start school again learning to work on automobiles. That quickly progressed to precision engine building, SCCA TA-II racing, Senior Master Automotive and Diesel Technician with FoMoCo(17 years), and finally ending passionately designing, building, wiring, and delivering what the client wants.
I too have my "last engine" in mind, but I'm struggling to lock down the displacement. You made very tasteful choices! The only thing I might question would be the color( Dark Ford Blue for me). LOVE the crank trigger, coil near plug, and that EYE CANDY of stack injection!!!!! All on my list......
I have questions though.....
My brother and I are building a 1971 small bumper Ford Maverick right now with a re-manufactured '69 351W short block. It's got AFR Renegade 185cc heads with 58cc chambers, Keith Black pistons (should be around 11.2:1 static compression), a Howard's Cam hydraulic flat tappet cam (297/305 advertised duration, .512/.528 lift, 109 LSA), Performer RPM Air Gap intake, Holley 750 carburetor, and custom long tube headers. Should put out around 450 to 500 HP. Its all mated up to a 3 speed toploader manual transmission and Ford 9" rear end with reinforced spring perches.
My maverick is a 72 based off spectra racing car this motor is right up my alley shooting for 675 HP 540 tq and 8000 rpm California pump gas???
Awesome build! I'm working on collecting parts for a SBF build myself. Not quite this radical, but a high RPM screamer with maybe 525hp or so, somewhere inbetween a BOSS302 and a NASCAR engine. 3.25 stroke and 4.030 bore for 332cid/5.4L, and aluminum Cleveland heads. 750cfm mechanical secondary Summit 4100-style carb, single plane Offy intake, reproduction Cobra Jet shaker scoop. Going into a New Edge V6 Mustang, with an X pipe, glasspacks, and side dumps/boom tubes.
Ford small-block Windsor made 816 hp and 531 lb-ft from a 374ci engine equipped with wedge-style aluminum heads that still maintain the original Ford inline, 20-degree valve-angle configuration. You heard that right: No rolled-over valve angles, no Cleveland,, or Yates heads it's built off the standard Ford 302/5.0L deck height in early 2000’s but this is a good build too
I love this I can't justify building a sbf with a with itbs and going this overboard that being said all Jay's videos give me ideas in which direction to carry my build and makes me even more hype to do my turbo sbf with all this info
I believe the Jesel recommends that the nose roller on the rocker begins off-center closer to the intake side and moves to the center of the valve stem so that it is in the center when the valve spring is in most compression.
I had a flat top sbf306 with 69 Windsor heads professionally done in early ninety's 51 cc heads. Had a pretty stout cam. Bought it from my cousin that had it in an F-100 and then a foxbody. I bought it and put it in an 86 bronco. 488 gear with 38 boggers. Stock C6 with a super Street fighter torque converter. No one believed it was a small block!!!! From the sound to the way it literally just exploded no one ever believed it was a small!!! But the bad part is I could have spent half the money rebuilding it and had a brand new small block Chevy with twice the power. I love ford power but the price is definitely a disadvantage. We used to run 460 Dove blocks and then d1ve blocks and turn them into 533 or 514. But for half the price I could have built a 540 bbc. For some reason doesn't seem quite Fair LOL
I felt bad I started my build in 2012 and just putting it together this year too. 2006 Ford Boss 302 block. Lightweight billet Scat crank, H-beams, and coated diamond pistons, 2012 spec. Jegs/Kasse sbf cylinder heads with titanium valves. Going in our 289 originally equipped 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback. Beautiful engine with that Inglese stacks?! Whatever brand, very nice induction. We are using a Predator carb with a Paxton Novi 1500. That predator always made EVERYONE look more than twice! While on the 289!!
Him telling stories about the car almost brought tears to my eyes not gonna lie.
Very tasteful upgrades. Before boosting became as affordable, and all there was to pick from was Gen I small blocks. Simple but dated designs. It's cool you're sharing this with those that may have never laid their eyes on a pushrod V8.
Cool motor! My brother put a jet engine in his Mustang last spring, and the chicks really dig him.
This is one thing that never gets old to me. I could eat sleep and breathe cars and engines, especially the later Fox body Mustangs.
I have a 95 Mustang that i restored on a rotisserie for 6 years. I built an aluminum Ford racing 427 to go in it. I put the best supporting parts in it that should produce 500+ whp. I'm only making like 447whp. I think it's the engine management that's holding it back. I'm using a Dyno tuned SCT chipped cobra EECIV. I want to upgrade to a MS PnP and see if i can get 500whp or more. Cool video Jay💪
I run 8 ITBs on a 452 cu. in. FE Ford. Like the BMWs, my idle is controlled by a Ford idle air valve in a Blue Thunder intake manifold. Smooth balanced idle, instant throttle response.
Really loving this honest and chill build. Not a typical murica 1000hp big block build... Oldschool tech, reference to the M5, clear and good explanations. Compliments!
My ultimate is a Ford 410 Sprint Car with massive squeeze which will soon replace the 358" Kulwicki spare in my 1984 SVO
More Pablo. 👍🏾
Friends doing a 331 Dart/AFR 6-71 for his 69 Mustang. Been wanting to have a blower on it since we were teenagers. He's super stoked about it.
Wow!! Amazing, I felt I like I was there. Man!! I definitely like to learn how to build a engine. Nice work👏👍
I love to see this as it's all I really know, Jay did not remark on who did the piston coating. I ran into a guy that had Line To Line coatings done on a set of 4.155 Mahle slugs but he unknowingly ordered them coated to a 4.158 and tried to assemble them in a block with a standard .030 over. I bought those pistons and my machinist caught it and adjusted the bore on my block to work with that coating size, being familiar with the break-in he told me how to do get the most out of them. I know Lake Jr. must have had a comment about those ABC coatings on a used pistons!🤨😄
Real nice quality build. Those are some really nice pulleys
cant wait to hear that thing shewwwwwwww
Its always fun to see how ppl started with a car or company
SBF! Easy fun power!! 💪🏼
When the right components are in complete harmony, the potential is great.
It doesn’t hurt that you have the best products known to man
for the build
Lol
Kick ass man
I mean using a pick without it ending up under your finger nail is always a victory. Engine is awesome!
Oh man what kind of asmr engine building hes doing today lol
Awesome video. Thank you for sharing the story of how it all started!
Hey Jay did you consider the stock 351w block found in trucks before deciding on the Man o War? Those blocks have been taken well over 800hp and they can support the cubes you have
That's not a Man o War block from World products it's a Dart block . The Man o War block has extra head bolts for all the cylinders for additional clamping! 🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
Either that or a 351 Cleveland. There has been stock block, stock head 408 Clevelands making 650-700 n/a and probably more with boost
The newest version has a 5 bolt conversion with 5 bolt heads. This block is the first one Dart came out with, and is a man o war.
Usable 351w truck blocks are almost non existent these days. Everyone on the planet thinking of a build like this has considered that option.
@@genemounce8302 i see those 351s all the time in running trucks and in the junkyard though. They are so common
I’m so glad you did this video. I always loved that car
this is extremely informative and relaxing to watch, thank you
Always learn something watching Jay. They did make a 260 as well
Will there be a video of this engine running. I’m interested in hearing it run. Watching you assemble the engine and describing what and the why’s of what you are doing was real interesting. Thanks for this video.
I also enjoyed watching you make your record breaking run. Kind of put you in the drivers seat as it was taking place.
I love this guy's style. This video and the coyote video maybe the best informative videos I've ever seen. Thanks for taking the time so we can all see
Jay telling Pablo, you did better than the other guy when putting the pin clips 😅, hey at least there was no blood in the episode! Thanks Jay and Pablo for the video!
A C9 (1969) 351w block was cast with thicker main webs and can have 4-bolt mains on the center three added, but you'd be into Dart SHP price range at that point.
I did that many years ago. Stroked to a 414 in a 94 sn95. Still lovin the Pushrod
I've been juggling this very same thought in my head for months. lol
Love all these videos. Really help me! Thanks!
Good vid, your using some pretty nice parts there with that improved block . Nice motor. Good info that makes sense.
4:26 ford hold my beer when making the 6.8l v10
I’ve never heard of a 8.2 deck with more than 363 cubes. Pretty interesting
I need to hear this thing roar!!!
Wow, very nice build.
Thanks!
Despite the number of head bolts,Chevys warped heads a lot more than the fords if they overheated.
A police car mechanic used to comment on that fact a lot and he was a big Chevy guy.
If you ran a SBC warm the heads cracked by the center two cylinders.
I saw a interesting video years ago on Nretv. A dude built a 4 valve per cylinder set of heads with the even exhaust port layout to go on old school SBC. They did three chassis Dyno pulls for the average on stock motor/ head. Then they swapped heads only and did three pulls for the average. I want to say it picked up over 100 HP just for the heads. Only crazy thing was one pushrod operated two valves. Craziest rocker arms ever.
Try using an after market cleveland block, remember clevelands were originally designed a race engine. Mine produces 500 rwhp 434 cu in
I've built many Hipo 289's if your going to put that much time and care In to it paint the inside of the thing with Glypol paint makes the oil run back faster and it gives a professional look to your SB.
I go so far as to do the inside of the valve covers, bottom of the intake and the heads.
Good stuff nice build you have.
Sharp looking SBF
Old technology? Ford was making dual overhead cam engines in the 60's.
That oil pump drive killed my 408 Windsor in the 90's. Solid roller cam, not paying attention in traffic, parked it at home and the next time I started it... expensive lesson learned. Everything had an oil pressure warning light after that.
This was a fun build to watch. Takes me back to all the stuff we were doing when I was a high school idiot in the 80's.
Definitely want to see the dyno session. What is the compression and cam spec?
Man love the sbf stuff cant believe I'm seeing some here more please
Pablos first question: Why arent we using Cleveland style heads?
Can't wait to hear it run!!
We all really need to hear this thing at full song by the way… its like life or death man 😂😂
I need one of these, So cool!
Had Weber sidedraft carbs on a Honda engine. Sounded sick
That's cool that you got the 6.2L out of the Short Deck 8.2" block.
I really wish you guys got into the mazdaspeed motors it would be awesome to have you guys build motors for that platform
I need to see this engine running either on the dyno or in the car one way or another.
“Honda Type of guy” LOL. 😂
Awesome! Subscribed! Can you post a parts list?
What kind of induction is that? That is a slick setup.
I have heard that because ford had 2 different firing orders for the 302 , the 1/5 firing order is hard on the front main bearing that's why they crack and break. 1/3 fireing order is a better firing order less stress on the block.
Nice build ! What cam are You using and did You degree it in ? Interested in seeing the power numbers on the Dyno. Please keep Us updated on Your progress! Thanks 🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
First part you put in was the camshaft?
I watch this/these videos before bed simply to dream about a parts list I’ll never be able to buy!!! lmao
Just looking/waiting for the S/M50-52 BMW platform to make it onto the channel
Cool engine. Can you post a build sheet for those of us following along at home?
In my opinion nothing sounds better than a push rod V8. Especially the Ford FE series engines and the Boss 429 385 series.
you need to check out the australian v8 supercar series fuel injection stacks & how we control them some used a slide blade set up
I have a 68 Mustang fuel injected 438windsor 12:1 compression, e85, Xr292r street solid roller cam, super victor intake, 4k stall full manual th400, 410 gears, 1 3/4 headers and it made 525wheel and runs 9's all motor, spins to 7200rpm and drives on street and fwy. But any bigger cam and you run into valvetrain longevity issues and less streetable. Car destroys teslas
No mention of Ford Motorsport M-6010-R302 blocks.
Which were between the A4 and Boss blocks.
What else is changing on the car Jay? Very nice to see you play with your own generation stuff alongside 90s+ JDM stuff
Who’s throttle bodies are that ? What engine management system you running to not use a distributor ?
What intake manifold is that? What were you putting onto the bearing ends of the rod before you put on the bearing shell, I always put the beari gs on dry?
How's regular street driving with the stacks? I hear it's very rough trying to just simply cruise. It looks beautiful, but would you even consider something like this for the street? Like you said small throttle openings on all 8 will completely eliminate any vacuum making it a tuning nightmare at low, part throttle.
Why not just use the ring pliers on the support rails too?
What is that you put onto your head studs? Anti seize? (Its was the black stuff applied with the brush)