1800HP 3.5L Dart 2JZ Engine Teardown, And What We Learned.
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- It's been a real treat being able to test this new era of 2JZ blocks by Dart, especially with such a wild combination like the 96mm stroker setup we used. While the engine was running well, we wanted to take the chance to tear into it and see how the individual parts were holding up. This brought us some valuable insight as to how these parts work with one another, and where theres room to improve.
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![Sean Rii, Karyon, Sharzkii - Taungule [My Love] (Official Music Video)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eJoMuypbSzQ/mqdefault.jpg)
These videos don't hit the same without Jay doing them
6:20
Is that heat?
Oh those heat marks?
-two Marks just talking about marks
lol
1800 on an OEM sump and steel rods is nuts ... the fact it didn't grenade is testament of how good that block is. Push it down to 1300 HP and that setup would last forever. Else dry sump.
and dis is design 30 year a go to
@@francisbeaudry8598 its a brand new aftermarket block bro
@@francisbeaudry8598 Dart upgraded their design ...
That's exactly what I was thinking. 1300 on e85 all day every day would be a long lasting motor. Also drop the rpm a bit and a smaller turbo would be a stout combo.
Because it revs high. So you don’t need that much torque to make as much horsepower. So cylinder pressures are lower. Horsepower = torque x rpm/5252.
STEEL ROD @ 2000+HP Is what we all want to see next!
Letsss goooo!
Don’t wanna hear no b58 comparisons until I see them hit these numbers w/o a billet block.
You've tried the longest stroke. Now try a shorter stroke with aluninum rods, a dry sump, o ring block and see how much HP you can make!
I love this :)
What happen to Jay? I think you should let us know something!
Definitely not the same
yea, where is Jay
Isn't Real Streets his company? Maybe he stepped to the side
Once I went aluminum rods I’ve never looked back. All my main cap saddle issues got better, main bearing wear phenomenal, along with rods, just everything got better wayyyyyy less fretting everywhere.
*The comment section is undefeated. They see a 1800 hp block perform well, and the next thing they say is "MO POWAH, I'M NOT SATISFIED"*
Half of these people don't understand some of the basics lol 😆
More boost baby!
@@tonymiller6255 You are correct lol
@@realstreetperformance Lol. I agree. But most people never seen, built, nor drove anything over 15psi of boost
it looks so simple im impressed
You still amaze me with the wrench turning skills. A must when building and inspection of mechanical’s platforms wish someone would teach the general engine builder ❤❤❤❤
5:00 hy GRO scopic not hydroscopic .... substance that absorbs water. Same as brake fluid.
Thank you for the correction!
dw i say it wrong all the time too 😂
These are just awesome, love it
Brother eewww what’s that? on the ryobi 😂
lol
was kind of surprised when I didn't see you all do fire rings or a drysump for that matter. interesting to see this build
Thank you for these informative videos.
Thanks for watching!
Now let's see a max effort aluminum rod 3.2 build 10k rpm and crack that 2000hp mark easy
Love that high rpm!
THANKS FOR SHARING
GREAT INFO AND INTEL
Glad you liked it!
Great breakdown
Thank you so much! We appreciate you watching.
@@realstreetperformance wouldn’t miss it!!
7:40 they even tuned the oil pan to the music 😁
I would like to see a 2j 86mm crank and long rod
1. Wiseco Boostline Rods, Mahle Pistons, King rod and main bearings, OEM crank, PH Oil pump
or
2. High RPM, All motor, stroker 2jz with ITBs. full built head, big cams, light weight rods and piston, high compression, knife edge OEM crank, Light weight fly wheel and 6 to 1 equal length headers.
So, broke with a lot of torque or a lot of rpm? User choice, I suppose.
@@OctavChelaru Both would be nice! You have the torque at any rpm, plus the 9600 rpm. The balance would need to be perfect to have it survive. Having a 6 to1 equal length headers would definitely change the engine nature. Would be an absolute time attack car, in the right light weight chassis.
@@hummer1750 Of course, only the NA build sounds like a dream money no object obsession project since power/weight ratio with the iron block wouldn't be anything to write home about and if you move the powerband so high you won't have much down low and early mid. Stroke is already not rpm friendly at 86mm, stroker crank will only make it harder to spin 9600 reliably, that's a lot. Maybe better off with a lightly modified S54 at a fraction of the price if revs and response are your cup of tea. Would certaintly scream though and get people talking :)
We would love to do a Nitro ITB 2JZ !!
@@realstreetperformance This would be the perfect build for an NA 2JZ!!
Future build could you guys do 90mm crank,aluminum rods,2500 hp RealStreet pistons,stage 5 Mazworx head?
Thats a good combo there!
@@realstreetperformance that’s what’s going into my car thanks to your guys help!!
What a beautiful example of under hood jewelry. Great build.
Thank you!
Test it with VP M5 that’s what is used from the fastest 2jz
Decrease the bore on these custom iron blocks and make the cylinder walls thicker.
This one in particular is very large bore for a typical 2jz. So far the cylinders have been doing well at this power level. More wall thickness would be stronger!
I’d imagine an aluminum rod would solve the scuffing of the rod bearings due to less weight or at least reduce it.
I like Kelford also. Great company.
Would definitely help. Yes they're great guys with an awesome line up of parts.
This is low key ASMR lol
Also, locally in Australia, I have a customer doing 2300+ on steel rods..
Pb 6.85@ 205 rx7 2jz...it does laps
With a Dart block?
@@chuxshed587 no, bullet.
Tomei baffle in would be cool to see. Also run that same combo on pump gas just to see what it could max out at
Pump gason 10:1 doesn't go very far
2000hp 3.0L crank with steel rods!!
If money is no object.
I would def have a built 2JZ from you guys and PRP to build me the RB26 to put them into daily street R34 & Supra.
PRP is doing some awesome stuff!
I would like to see a stock crank with CP pistons and manly H Tuff rods ACL bearings and put some boosts to it to see how far it can go
Stock crank does funky stuff to the bearings at 1k whp no need to go further
Dlc coating si sweet until it flakes off and sandblasts all your bearings lol
Dlc coating si sweet until it flakes off and sandblasts all your bearings lol
@@tonymiller6255did that happened to you before
Test Presicion Next Gen XPR 9103
Perhaps keep current stroke but with lighter rods and E85 for a road legal build. Then an intercooler and dry sump.
Ligher rods would be good! This setup already runs E85, but One Ethanol R Race E85. We do have an intercooler on this setup, but it is tucked up above rather than in front . Dry Sump for the win!!
💪
Just need more and better oiling at that power level. Time to go to 2500hp level to test that block.
just amazing ....question you using stock toy toy oil filter ??
You should try Line2Line coating on the pistons.
I think that could help, but the root of the wear starts with the piston coming so far down below the cylinder.
Would be cool if Dart offered a 6 bolt block and head package.
i deserve a t shirt or sticker pack lol
Next time you stop in, or place an order, ask us for some free goodies, and we'll include a special stickers and trinkets!
Do a 3.0 that rev's to the moon 🚀
I like that idea. 10,000 rpm!
Came back for a second comment…I say titanium rods and see how they hold up to higher boost and rpm. Aluminum rods for a race build yea but seeing how high you can go with titanium would be MUCH more informative and cool as far as video content goes. Nobodys really done that. There are TONS of aluminum rod race builds. Let’s move on to something cooler💯😂
@@mikelmarion just go back 40 years to F1.. pretty much every turbo engine had ti rods. Bar the hart 415t
it would be nice to see a 2jz build for maximum low end torque and power. lot of builds are just max top end horsepower and it doesn't come alive until 5,000 rpm. how about a twin scroll, vvt, stroker, air to liquid intercooler?
That’s what I’m talking about, a real street car!
@@gnxtacy im saving my pennies. my goal is 600 to 700 rwhp. but i want it to start the party soon as possible
If you guys ever get the chance, please do this for the aftermarket EJ's whenever they come out. I believe Crest CNC and IAG are both developing one. My dream for a destroked EJ25 is slowly coming to life:)
EJ motors are boat anchors ⚓ , Don't waste your time or money on those piece of junk ... I've blown up several built EJ motors 👎
We would love to do some EJ stuff in the future!
@MING26 did you miss the part where I said "AFTERMARKET". As in redesigned cast block that addresses all the weak points of the EJ's. That's what I was talking about. EJ's can't handle big power for as long as other platforms. But I'd love to see a breakdown between a Subaru EJ and an IAG/Crest EJ.
Do titanium rods!!!!
Put Madison, WI on those power tools and when someone says "Get Milwaukee" you can say, "Ehh, close enough."
I expected to see aluminum rods in there at that power level.
R&R Aluminum Rods or BC titanium Rods
With a compound turbo setup 🔥
I would like to know how the oil film got compromised, if its just because of the high load on the piston due to the power you guys are making, or it has something to do the the bearing clearance, do you need to go higher or lower on the clearances?
@@ver.motorsports to me it looks like the big end housing is a noodle..lots of movement evident at the parting line.
Remember we saw the same ware pattern in that land speed engine, with the same rods.
yooooooooooooooooooo
why not the BC0303 280/11.48mm cams?
compound turbo
Love it
Do you say compromised oil film because of the wet sump? Is the headgasket just a MLS with copper spray on it?
That was likely part of the reason the oil film became compromised. Yes MLS with copper spray.
Milwookie getting it done
"A long time ago... In a machine far far away..." Hahaha
@@realstreetperformance 🤣🤣
What do you guys think of the line2line coating for piston skirts?
We've done that on a few engines that needed to close down on P2W clearance and they've worked really well.
Where’s Jay at? He should be the one doing this
Cool, were the camshaft lobes also DLC treated?
Not the cams, these are off the shelf non coated BC cams. Working really well!
I am just a "guest-watcher" of this channel; very nice engine! But for what reason is it running with that long stroke?
im guessing abuse the block as much as possible to see how it reacts
This block came to us already at its "max" bore of 88mm. We decided to also pair it with the "max" stroke possible to try and make a large 2JZ engine. The result was this 3.5L.
Next, I think we'll mix it up :)
Just out of interest? Do you guys do per cylinder fuel trim on a setup like this?
Great question, yes we do! Being able to monitor things like EGTs make cylinder trimming relatively easy . We highly recommend applying that to any race program.
How much would it roughly be to buy this exact build?👀 I don't seriously race. But I do like to have a project car to stay busy and out of trouble
Is Jay no longer with Real St.?
And Geo?
Jay owns it
@yerielvarela2405 Isn't he over with the Real Tactical shop?
@@7275vrt yeah, but i wonder he is not active anymore in building engine and in the real st. Website he is not in the picture 🤔🤔
Jay does what he wants…
Dry sump it and lets see it do over 2k hp
Time to let it eat!
Ryobi tools? Sorry just had to bring that up lol
Lol, still works well
Y'all frick the tools, there's a compound turbo SR that needs roller rockers. What other priorities?
Cool. Now put it back together, and sit it at 800 HP for 5 mins straight... Proper endurance test.
Assuming the dyno has the cooling capacity to di it
I like the way that sounds. Lets do it!
@@realstreetperformance if they managed to do a full 24 hr race, group C , at MORE power, should be a walk in the park🤌.
Plus, who doesn't like watching HP. Endurance tests are where it's at, "real horsepower".. 👌
1:30... Yeah...pretty sure everyone knows ONLY Milwaukee and Snap-on can loosen nuts and bolts... it's common knowledge
Mark looks like he is in his 60's with that beard ...
Gandalf beard coming soon.
@@realstreetperformance 🤣
Never knew ppl used 2ZZ buckets in 2Js
Yeah previously the only drop in when doing a shimless conversion was 2zz...
@@Bondangoed Did they use the 2ZZ's shim-under-bucket (valve stem cap) design too?
@@loganamurray64 the 2ZZ buckets are a single piece with the shim built into the underside of the bucket.
@@loganamurray64 1zz also, before these engines 1zz 2zz came about we used a bucket from a yamaha fzr bike but it required some machining
The eagle needs a hawk thua and it gets like new. 🤣
hahahah
Is there a reason to use a 2jz in drag racing over a v8?
The v8s hold up to drag racing better dont they?
Because the 2JZ can do 2000 hp ... How many V8's can do 2000 hp ???
@@ACommenterOnRUclips Pretty much all of them can?
My answer would be "because they want to"
Seriously, there are more than 10 engine families where horsepower is largely a wallet-based affair. Build what you like.
@@corystansbury All of them "can" ... i have yet to see any.
@@ACommenterOnRUclips You have not seen any V8s make 2000 HP? Really?
@@corystansbury NO .... not in person at all ever. Frankly never seen any over 1000 hp in person, all are in the 800 ish hp area.
i don't understand why everyone in the rb world needs to convert cam cap fasteners to aftermarket studs when these guys use oem-like fasteners???
10.37 --> "given that we were using a steal rod and heavy pin and heavy piston on a compromised oil film all at high engine speed this falls in line with what we expected". lol = we were expecting bearing wear wtf
*inhale nose whistle*
Who is making heads?
Aluminum rods diamond pistons.
Or titanium rods
I'd like to see Dart make a B58 block.
I’d like to see a 4.0L ford barra block from dart!
Milwaukee meat glazer brand loyalists are so annoying. Imagine constantly arguing for a brand that doesn't know you or give a shit about you.
1800 hp on an oem timing belt. Theres no point in aftermarket
The music ruined your show ! It's fvcked ! Just don't put music on the show please ! It's disastrous... I had to stop watching.
12:32 what rod ratio are you guys seeing with this bore/stroke and rod length? Awesome content.
1.43? Stock rod is 142, minus 5 mm for a 96 mm stroker crank. Pretty short. I don't know if the wrist pin is in the stock location, sometimes they move them up on the piston to get a longer rod.
@@PistonAvatarGuy yeah it looked pretty belowed the oil rings, they used the honda rod journal also, was wondering because they mention the scuffing in the lower piston skirts. thank you brother.
96mm stroke and 142mm rod length :
Rod ratio = 1.479
Rod angle = 71.3°
Mean piston speed @ 8100 rpm = 25.92 m/s or 5102 fpm
@@nNataXx They maintain the stock rod length?
@@PistonAvatarGuy Yep, 142mm rod is the OE length, you can see the specs on the Brian Crower website