Just a random tip, you guys probably already know this but for everyone who doesn’t. on the sr 50 r and probably more bikes, you can balance the light switch in the middle to make both the high and low beam be turned on at once:)
Great tip, we often do this as it balances the look from the front👌 We connect the wiring for the head light behind the front panel, using press clips to make the join, very simple for anyone to do.
Hi Joshua, another comment, thank you for the positive comment🙏. No we did not, did you watch the video? You have overlooked some important info. Can you watch all of our videos and pick out our bloops, leave the comments please.🤙
Read every single comment while watching and was surprised you guys actually replied to every single one! Explained everything in great detail without making it boring. I didnt skip 10sec one time, nice tips along the way Underrated channel for sure Got a new sub
@@scooterstreetau yes there is still but more up Rizinus based. 15 years ago was in every oil Rizinus included. today if you are looking for one stands by only for mixture lubrication
Ive got that exact crank on my Gilera Runner. that thing increases compression Massively!! I Just couldn't kick it with the Stage6 kick messed up a pair of shoes trying haha... had to swap for the original kick. Dont think those bearings will last tho.. for this type of engine you really want to go with ceramic bearings! These kits rev a lot and the crank gets HOT! They warp and eventually get messed up.. blew both bearings at the same time after around 400km.. luckily didnt damage my crank, only got some scratches. Thats a beast of a build!
this kit rev up to 10000 rpm not the same as mhr team so the bearings and crank are fine.most of time the seals will blow on the ignition side.use only c3 bearings with steel cage, c4 are sucks not made for daily driving.btw those stage 6 kicks are piece of crap.a few kicks and the threads broke.nice for the show but useless.
@@dokesz530 are you sure?? being an alu kit with a single ring in the piston and that massive bridged exhaust port?? that sounds like it can rev 14,000 easy!!! ive got a s6 mk2 racing ported revin 13.5k rpm and she wants more I just need another pipe that can do it .. You can turn these things into rpm chassers. All it takes is the owner swaping to lighter rollers simply by hearing the biggest myth "lighter rollers = +accel" lol. With these little details i'd rather not take any chances buddy... true the boss got a higher squish and whatnot to maintain lower temps, but still, i dont trust that area of the engine with steel bearings.. and i dont like to swap them either, ceramic lasts a lot more ✌️
Hey i had this same bearing and my setup is exact like the video. My bearing lasted only 200km. Melted cages on both sides. So what ceramic bearings did u use? Make and type?
@@peter0139 SKF does them for minarelli. Im not sure, but i think malossi only does hybrid, ceramic balls with metal cage. I ordered mine from the local factory in Malta, asked them to do 100% ceramic, they are white.. just gave them the measurements and they made them fresh... almost 1000km on a pair and no weird vibrations or sounds.. still going really smooth!!
I would do some things diffrent here. 1: put at least a 24 carb on it. 2: the expantion of a c16 is to small for this cylinder. C21 would be better. 3: never runn this kinda setups on a stock oil pump. Pre mix is the way to go here.
Hi Brando, thanks for your input. As a shop we're limited to the customers instructions, but this was only the first stage of the build for this customer. The bike has since been heavily upgraded with 21mm carb, inner rotor ignition, full over range transmission, gear up kit, ect. When we have built race bikes, we have always deleted the oil pump in favour of premix (for endurance races particularly this allows the use of the oil tank as an extra fuel tank for less fuel stops too). On this bike in in particular the selection of the exhaust and maintaining the use of the oil pump was mainly due to its need for daily practicality and the customers desire for reliability. The bike has done a couple thousand kms of hard riding since, and had no issue whatsoever with oiling, which has been the case over the 10+ years we've been working with these cylinders on street use scooters. I can for sure understand your preference for premix👍
You obviously know what you are doing guys but when heating the crank cases do it from the outside not directly onto the bearing journals, you need to heat sink the casing so the heat stays in the area, doing the journal direct doesnt give you enough time or get nearly enough heat in hence you had to twat the bearing in, it will also help to illiminate your "residual bearing tension" ..., a small (2mm wide) bead of instant gasket down the middle of the joint face is a better practice than smearing it all over 👍
The hardened oil and fuel lines can be replaced with silicone lines, these are more flexible and less likely to harden over time although they are slightly more expensive.
This SR is going to be a fast little scoot. Could really do with a gear up kit, and a better carb. If it was mine I would probably run pre mix too. I guess it's what the customer wants though. Defiantly change the tyres for something better. Really enjoyable video. 👏
@@dokesz530 it's always safe to premix even if you have a working oil pump. So in the event the oil pump fails. The pre mix is there to keep the engine from blowing up.
45:10 the coolant goes from the "outlet on the top of the head" to the "elbow"(the bottom part) or from the "elbow"(the bottom part) to the "outlet on the top of the head"? Thank you!!!
In the previous comments we have replied to this with what we have found: Pasted.. Everyone has difference of opinion to run or not to run. I would say to what you think is best for you. We tested several scooters using both methods: Running them in against thrashing them flat out non stop over a short and long period. We also ran new builds in the 24 hour Leminz race with no run in and there was no damage or compression loss in any of the machines, they were dismantled afterwards and the bore, rings and piston were in excellent condition. My info is only based on my experiences doing this not many times but hundreds of times over decades. One thing I can say is that it is absolute is to ensure the fuelling, air and oil system are working before riding.
Thank you so much for the positive comments, 🥰 We've used some Athena parts previously and been impressed with the quality for sure! We usually go with what we know works on a customer scooter, but would be willing to test some more Athena products if the chance arose👍
You fussed over the squish but why didn't you find a sealer product to coat the entire steel shim base gasket? If the molecules of antifreeze can leak past the gasket then the molecules of air will surely leak past also as they are much smaller.
Hi Smoke skull, We have had losses and victories based on the squish so I guess we did not want others to suffer the many mistakes we have made previously. We do use a red Temp friendly sealant but not usually on a base gasket, definitely something we will try if we ever get a leak, thank you👍
if u have the sr factory means purejet u dont have issues installing exhaust.also i did use malossi coil but i fit next to the cdi.probably the sr carb version is way different.grease or change the brake pads they doesnt sound good.did u guys bleed the oil pump too cuz i missing that part.dont worry about the jet size,tell the customer he need to upgrade it to 19 or 21 mm.
Hi Martin, Yes it has, Brad was in the role of Video production and he is no longer with us. I do plan to do more but the shop has taken my time. Stay well until then.
I’ve heard that tapping on the end of the crank can throw the trueness of the crank off. The only force that cranks can hold is vertical rotational force not horizontal force. What do you think?
We have used them a number of times in race bikes we've build previously for 24hr endurance races, and have installed them both ways. Upon pulling the engine back down after the race, not seen any noticeable difference either way. The reason we install them this way in the video is due to the lubrication of the balls being best this direction. Though the Piaggio engine has oil galleries which allow fuel/air/oil to pass to the outer side of the bearing, the majority of mixture is passing through the centre of the crank. When installed there is a fair bit of gap between the bearing and the crank lobe for oil to pass into and lubricate the balls.
24:21 how do you ensure you get it as close as possible to the crank casing before bolting it on when all you can do is just place one on top of another via gravity? You either placed it correctly or didn't?
Hello, i have an aprilia sr50r carb with a 65cc Malossi cylinder kit,a stage 6 exhaust,a Malossi variator and weighs, red clutch springs and a 21mm Dellorto carb but I don’t know what else to do to make it faster, do you have any suggestions?thanks
Upgrade the parts you have to higher class, mid race or higher. The cylinder can be upgraded, the transmission can move to an over range kit. An inner rotor ignition could be fitted too. Do your research into these parts prior to committing.
hello, nice video. I have a derby GP1 V2 piaggio engine, I would install the same cylinder, 21mm carburettor, but I would like to know which variomat is more suitable for this cylinder, malossi multivar or malossi MHR team 2? of course, it should be taken into account that this model does not have a foot starter, but only an electric starter thank you
Thanks mate. The Bitubo has a high quality feel and performs so well. Both are good options and there are several options in the brand range.. Would recommend to buy above the standard you require.
I must apologise for my comment, i did not read the comments and description (i should have). I'm currently in the proces of getting a scooter just like this one :)
Hey no problem NWN🙌. I answer every message and many are repeat Qs. So we update the Description hoping viewers have a quick read. Hit me up if the future if you need assistance and I will gladly help you out🦘👍
I have a sr50 2020. Setup: s6 srace; dellorto phbg 21mm; s6 reed valve and straight intake manifold; athena air filter; malossi multivar;rhq. Which exhaust is better with this setup yasuni c16 or r1200?
They both have their benefits, R1200 is great top end pipe(racing) where the C16 has a wider power range and would be tuned better for street. So it depends n your usage..
Everyone has difference of opinion to run or not to run. I would say to what you think is best for you. We tested several scooters using both methods: Running them in against thrashing them flat out non stop over a short and long period. We also ran new builds in the 24 hour Leminz race with no run in and there was no damage or compression loss in any of the machines, they were dismantled afterwards and the bore, rings and piston were in excellent condition. My info is only based on my experiences doing this not many times but hundreds of times over decades. One thing I can say is that it is absolute is to ensure the fuelling, air and oil system are working before riding.
Hey man I have the full malossi 94cc kit but having trouble setting up the 28mm dellorto carb that came with the kit. Q: would u know how many turns out do we do the fuel mixture screw? 😒 and what should be the right size Main fuel jet? Thanks heaps
Hey i saw your video i wantet to ask.I want to put a new exaust yasuni r and i want to put new rollers 3.6g or 4g. If i do those mods what else do i need to switch i have an Aprilia sr50r
I have aprilia sr50 and i want to upgrade 70cc i was thinking malossi mhr replica with polini exhaust forrace 4 and also with a carb 21mm and a reinforced crankshaft. How much you think my scooter will go
Consider a higher class cylinder for this exhaust and carby...I know you will be treating the transmission with some gifts as well so overall your expecting speeds of 100KPH+. The MHR rep would be good for the street race.
I'm planning to overhaul my '98 Zip RST (AC) to liquid cooling. What would be the ideal LC configuration - getting an electric water pump or using, like, the Stage6 R/T MK2 water impeller?
I would say it depends whther yours has the early engine or the later engine. Our experience is only with the Hiper2 which I believe to have been sold since '99. Having liquid cooled a factory AC zip myself, the issue with running a factory type water pump is the AC casing hasnt been machined for the bearings. The electric pump is an easy solution. I did have some issues with the electric pump flow rate being too high, and not allowing the coolant to pass through the radiator slow enough to cool adequately. Malossi make a special variable speed water pump controller for their liquid pump, I would hazard a guess and say they have experience a similar issue which the controller resolves. I solved mine by keeping the factory thermostat in place.
Thanks Roger, good to know. We have had a difference experience with them. We have used these bearings in several race bikes we have built and run 24hr races with. Stage 6 may use the same SKF bearings as Malossi, I'm not sure.
Hello, i am going to buy a 70cc cyllinder and malossi wildlion to a piaggio, its going to be in dailt use and i want something that last longest possible and have power, what cyllinder du u recomend? Thinking about airsal 70cc aluminium or malossi sport 70cc cast iron but whats better? Castiron or aluminium for my use?
Buy Quality, and a Brand that supports with spare parts, 3 brands come to mind. An Aluminium Cyl. would offer better performance. The longevity will come through the care management of the engine and the scooter in general. Regular service and maintaining the key parts of the engine are what makes a good scooter a Great Scooter.🛵
@@scooterstreetau thanks, but what cyllinder would you recomend on a setup that is for daily use and wheelies, a airsal 70cc aluminium or a malossi sport 70cc castiron
I have a 09 sr50 with fuel injection. Have you ever come across a one that wants a big bore kit that wants to keep the fuel injection? I seen a malossi 70 cc kit with the new computer. Have you had good success with leaving the fuel injection in? I have had many zuma's and roughhouse's but this is a whole new scooter to me. Thank you for any info. I love your videos!
Yes we have done many of these before and the BBK and the efi works fine. In the early days there was not an option to convert to carby so they were all injected with BBK.. Be sure to have all systems operating in good order.
@@scooterstreetau I just got it a few days ago. It runs and rides gold. It has a arrow exhaust and that's all I know of. I have got it up to 51. It liked to stay around 47 with me. I'm 6ft 250. I was hoping to see 60mph with the 70cc malossi kit. I will also get a variator and spring. What rollers would you recommend? Anything else in forgetting? Thank you for the reply, I'm just trying not to forget anything. Do they gain quite a bit with the 70cc?
@@levimorris6455 Take the 70cc kit, 2 x spark plugs, Air filter, inline fuel filter, Adjustable clutch, Variator and a few sets of rollers 2 below original weight and one above.
Very nice video ! I too have Aprilia SR50R and wanted to ask what exhaust I should get. Now I have installed Malossi Sport 70cc kit, 17,5 carb, malossi variator kit and I was wondering about Yasuni R exhaust. Is it good for my low end setup ?
hi, i just bought a piaggio zip 2stroke, its stock but im going to tune it, im going to have 70cc but nothing extreme, just for daily use and wheelies, what exhoust sholud i buy) yazuni z? wildlion?....
Daily use you may lean toward the Wild Lion. I say this because the down low power is there instantly and street riding without gaining too much attention is the best outcome. She looks standard but hammers on that red light. Go for a higher class BBK.
@@scooterstreetau Would it be a big difference of speed and power between wild lion and yazuni z? The setup i was thinking about was malossi 70cc sport, One of the 2 exhousts, lower weights, stiffer springs and the malossi red sponge filter
Hi! I am interested to build a 70cc Stage6 MK2 Kit, but i have no clue what crankshaft should i pick for reliability. My idea so far to engine is: Stage6 70cc MK2 Racing, Stage6 R/T PWK 26mm and Stage6 Intake kit. Near my country i could get Stage6 Pro Replica crankshaft but i don't know if it's good enough, first time building engine like this. I have tried to google, but cannot find anything. :( I have a SR50 R 2010(?) without fuel injection so normal carburetor engine with 17.5mm dellorto. Greetings from Finland Edit: I am also trying to cool the motor by replacing the mechanical water pump by a electrical one.
This set up your listing is very nice🚀. A higher class crank may be a better long term option.....We use the Malossi RHQ crankshafts with 39.3 Stroke. Look around and speak with other Scooter Tuners about their experiences.. Reliable and quality. Always remember to replace the small end bearing at regular intervals.
Using the same cylinder kit would a polini cp21 carb and a r1200 run well on a piaggio zip or do I need a bigger carb. I have stage 6 full race cvt set. Was thinking of going to a 24mm carb or maybe even 26mm and also what would be the best gear wheels to run with this set up. Thanks
And also what size main jet would I run if u can give me a range that would be great I know that’s it’s always best to start rich and lean out as much as necessary
@@scooterstreetau I have a paggio zip lc two stroke. I run a mhr team 70 like shown in the video, mhr rhq full circle crank, stage 6 oversized cvt kit(variator (7.2 g weights) clutch, torque drive, drive belt, etc) stock ignition. I need to know what carb to run I believe a 19mm is to small for this set up. I also need to decide wether the stage 6 r1200 or the c16 is the better exhaust to run and lastly I am looking at upgrading my gear wheel set any suggestions?
@@crbcairo.1633 The 19 will be ok and give good down low, but ultimately the larger carb will take all of the parts to another lever. Inner rotor ignition will change the game on your setup.
Hello I have 09 sr70 with mallosi crank and cylinder kit, its carb converted but i have polini cp24mm, with open filter but i cant get it running, do you think i need to go with smaller carb or any jetting suggestion ?
@@scooterstreetau compression is good because it start sometimes on idle but once you give gas a little over 2.000rpm i shuts down and spits from exhaust , do you know by any chance what main jet should i use or just to start from somewhere
It would depend on what class of 70cc kit your have chosen. The Yasuni C16 is leaning toward the performance cylinder over the sport class. Giannelli Shot V4 will give you excellent performance all round, offers benefits in low to mid range torque. The V4 has an improved header pipe over the V3, just change the packing often to keep the noise down.
Hello, random question,can i ask what the cable connected to the throttle and the transmission is for? (The one thats connected with the throttle cable) on aprilia sr50
hello i have aprilia sr50 all standarc from factori do you have any suggestions i want to put auspuh gianeli rekord and i want from you a sugestion what kind of weight and spirng to set for a better performance ?
The Rekord is a good street exhaust, we would recommend installing the yellow set of Malossi clutch springs to suit that bike, and somewhere around the 5.5-6g rollers depending on the rider weight and preference👍
Awesame video! What size is the carby with that 122 jet? Is it a 17,5? also what about the automatic oiling Is that enough for the extra fuel? or do you premix? Thanx
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! Yes its the factory 17.5. The customer wanted to do the build in stages, core engine parts first. We have since installed a larger PHBG 21 with a pod filter, the bike is making significantly more power. We will be doing an update video on this bike soon. Regarding the oil pump, we usually only delete the pump for dedicated race bikes, track only. The factory oil pump does an excellent job of lubricating the engine, the butterfly system which increases the oil pumping with the throttle is ingenious. The system is also adjustable, we often use the cable adjustment where the cable enters the crank casing to tension the cable, increasing the pumping. This particular bike has since done a couple thousand kms with no oiling issues. It mostly comes down to preference, the pump is certainly very convenient.
@@scooterstreetau Thank you for your great answer. Love the videos, I learn a lot! ;) greetings from Hungary! I think I will stick with the 17.5, if it will work fine. I am not about to go racing. But I have a similar malossi kit, malossi belt, rollers, everything. So it should work fine then.
The Malossi Cylinder is set and ready to install, we always measure the piston to cylinder clearance pre install and then the squish once installed.. We recently fitted the headless kit to a 2018 model Typhoon with the results being very impressive.
Do you have any idea what could cause dim rear light? Break light work just fine but the running back light is barely visible. I changed the bulb but no effect. I allready ordered a new stator just in case but was wondering is there something in between stator and the back light that could cause this? Its an aprilia sr 2008 carb.
Ohh I have seen this before, my brain cant pull the file.... Check the power wire from tail light to switch and power source, check the headlights and all contacts associated with the running lights. From memory it was the feed wire at the junction from the lighting coil on the stator..
@@scooterstreetau Yeah the thing is that front lights work just fine so it makes me think that the problem would not be the problem but instead in the wiring.
How do u fix a scooter smc mistrail 50 that is making a wierd noice when the belt expands, its a sharp sound and i know its not suppost to make that sound. It shakes the whole Atv, i dont know how to fix it though. Please help me identfy the problem😁
@@scooterstreetau its more of a slip, but its hard to identify where the sound comes from because its when driving, it makes my atv notch, it feels like the variator slips for 0.1 second and then keeps on driving and i know its not good, sound like a backfire or something is not tight enough when the belt expands, but we checked the variator with the weight rollers are, but we dont know much about the clutch, what do you think it can be? Thank you for answering fast:)
@@sondremoldestad3563 You need to carefully check each part, a thorough check of each part could reveal what the issue is. Look for worn or damaged components. It may not be in the transmission, it could be the engine. You can rev the engine while the scooter is on the main stand as long as it is safe and secure, this may reveal exactly where the noise is being generated.
I have a aerox with a 70cc kit and a polini highspeed variator with 5,6g rollers. IT doesnt get the belt all the way out on the variator and dont want to get over 80kmh. Do you have any tips?
First question? Did the belt go all the way out before you starting modifying? If YES, what was the change that affected this belt travel? Was it the Variator, has the variator been installed with the correct spacing? Has any other parts of the transmission changed, Torque spring.
@@Vatland. Does the Front pulley have the freedom to close together without the belt (touching faces)? At this point you will need to isolate the moving parts (front and rear pulleys)as to find out if they are restricting the belt travel. Front pulley must be able to close which pushes the belt to the top, rear pulley must be able to open all the way to its mechanical stopping point which allows the belt to travel forward, so it may sit in the very centre of the rear pulley.
I have a question too. I have Aerox 50cc with uprated 17.5 dellorto PHVA. I'll install a Malossi sport 70cc kit ( the one with the black head) and Yasuni R exhaust + TPR crankshaft. My question is what is a safe jet size to start with and go down? And also are 3.5 grams roller weights okay to start with?
Start at a 94 main jet, it will be rich but safe to start here, it largely depends on the air intake too (POD requires more fuelling). You may end up at 84 or near. Rollers: 3.5gram would be the minimum weight... with rollers you can start low and then bring up the weight with a test in between each change and you will end up at a weight that suits your set up. (4.8g perhaps).
@@iy1741 Once you have the initial jetting and performance at its best, then you can start to open up the air box and jet up to suit. Taking out the snorkel is a big air increase, so tread slowly..👍
@@scooterstreetau Thanks for the advice one last question for you guys. What do you think would be an ideal clutch spring to use with the setup above. I'm thinking blue clutch springs and a red contra/tension spring but not sure...
@@iy1741 Some things to think about: This engine can handle a higher class cylinder kit, if the budget allows then go for it. Again with the clutch if the budget allows then upgrade the clutch to a higher performance and adjustable clutch, Polini make a great clutch, the G3. If limited budget then go for a 4000-5000rpm clutch spring set.
The Airsal gives good low down power and that is the fun for scootering. Yes the Crank can handle this cylinder, but we always recommend to replace a worn part whether it be the crank and bearing set or the spark plug, keep it good order and you will get the best return👌
@@scooterstreetau thanks alot ill probably instal the airsal sport 70 and will it fit with the giannelli reverse ? Becouze now i have the reverse with stock piaggio 50cc cyl, and the low end torque is what i want becouze the stock 50 needs to "load up" until it picks up even tho mine is ported but its still kinda slow of the line 🙄. Also is the airsal sport reliable ? Or not ? :DD thanks for the info ✌️
@@domasjan8900 Check the rings on the kit you go for, single or twin ring? The twin ring pistons tend to have a longer life. The Reverse is a great exhaust and requires mid to high RPM to get going. Sharpen the clutch springs and tune the variator rollers. Don't forget to JET.
hi I was wondering if it is possible to water cool an aprilia sr mt. I have the euro 4 model. Also I have an issue where the screen sometimes does not turn on when I switch the ignition to on. I changed the battery on my bike but that did not solve the issue. What could be causing this problem?
Yes it is possible to water cool this engine, If you buy the cooling system for the ZIP SP or SR50R both water cooled you can retro fit the parts to suit: H2O cylinder, radiator, water pump and so on. Check the wire harness and the connections that power the dash, follow the wires from the ignition to see if the power is flowing to the dash connector.
Hi. I was thinking to put a Stage 6 sport pro kit with a Doppler endurance crankshaft combined with my yasuni r. I’m also running a 19mm (PHBG) carburetor which is a bit small. Would this be good ? Thanks in advance.
@@scooterstreetau thanks. I was hesitant that my setup wouldn't be able to support the racing version. I'll probably consider buying it then the sports version.
Can you recommend "some" website i can get aftermarket replacement parts for my Vitacci Spark 150cc. Your channel would help me a ton ff you would ever show vids on this model..BTW
Hi ACP, welcome back. So sorry but unfortunately in Australia we do not have this model, Vitacci Spark 150cc. So we have no information or experience with this model. I have done research and it looks like it is sold in the USA. Try to find a local dealer and they may be able to direct you to an aftermarket parts supply, or try here: www.scooterdynasty.com/spark1504tac.aspx👍
A performance variator will help it a fair bit with acceleration, but unfortunately the Piaggio Leader engine in that bike isn't build for performance. Its like a tractor engine, will run forever - just not quickly.
For the factory 50cc cylinder the Yasuni Z is a great option. If you're going to install a 70cc cylinder kit in the future, the R would be the way to go.
Hello, I bought a new cylinder, gilera stalker 50, Piaggio engine, and after 4 days of running-in, I removed the cylinder and it has a fine scratch that can be felt with a fingernail, guys, where did And the guys from the website where I got the set told me that after running in it will disappear, I don't know what to say, is there any problem? the scooter starts well both hot and cold, sorry for my bad English
I am not sure, without seeing it is hard to comment but generally a new cylinder should only have the cross hatch marks on it or nothing if it is Nikasil.
@@scooterstreetau unfortunately, due to the fault of the needle bearing, those scratches appeared, I will change the needle bearing and try to repair the scratches by honing, the piston and segments are not affected, thank you
@@scooterstreetau The bearing with that was seized, all its balls stopped moving or whatever they are called,I don't use the oil pump for a long time, I use a mixture in the tank 25ml per liter, I don't know what to say :(((
Sorry to bother you more, but do you have, any experience with piaggio LC? i think my aprilia sr50 has a piaggio engine it's powered by 17.5mm dellorto, i have tried to read germany/italy forums about it but cannot understand anything :D i still need clutch kit and was wondering what kit i should buy? Im really gratefull of the info i have gotten so far from this channel!
Thank you for your comment. We have owned many Piaggio LC engines and many hours of work but always still learning. Try for a performance clutch with adjustment of the spring, Polini G3 is a great option.
Have a chat with the guys when buying the kit, get a full list of what is required to run the kit effectively. With these builds you really need to go all out and commit to an upgrade on every component.
hello, minits 12:31 those lines above the flywheel on the crankcase, I also have those 3 lines, or what are they called, but mine are longer and bumpy, is there a problem?
@@scooterstreetau yes, the ones on the crankcase,but I have two other Piaggio engines and they are not as deep, but the engine ran perfectly, probably those three lines are from the factory like this
For the 50cc engine we like the Yasuni Z. The best is arguable and up to the user but many of the 50cc class engines respond very well to the Leading Brand exhausts.
I have a question. I have a Gilera Runner with an Airsal 70cc sport kit and a 17,5 carb and a polini hi speed variator what type of pipe would work the best with my setup?
@@scooterstreetau at least for hiper-2 lc engines it comes with a single-ring piston, it would benefit greatly with a c16, and the 17,5mm is also good considering you have a stock crank. A 21mm carb would be on the limit side of pia stock cranks. I have a Hiper-1 AC short drum brake engine on my zip, with mhr racing 70cc kit, 21mm carb, stock crank, c16, hiper-2 variator with 19x15,5mm rollers and a hebo racing clutch. tops at 90km/h but sometimes do stress a bit while pushing it, because stock crank :). in hindsight - yasuni r or c16, depending on budget.
This occurs due to huge amount of heat generated by the cylinder, the restricted exhaust restricts the flow and traps the heat due to the baffle and restrictors inside. Sometimes the new exhaust will burn out paint and new materials from manufacturing. This can also happen when you use certain types of fuels. If you are worried get it checked out.
@@alialkabi7375 Not much you can do, the speed is taken from the small gear that run from the front wheel, it is set from factory. maybe a different size tyre will change the speed reading. Manufacturers will usually allow a 10% accuracy with the speedo with an optimistic value. So 50 will read 55.
i have a problem with my piaggio motor. it wont charge the battery i have changed the volt regulator and it still wont charge i have also put a new stator and it still wont charge and also it wont start with the electric start when the new stator is on but when i change back to the old stator it starts right up with the electric start.
Firstly, charge the battery for 2 hours and then do a load test to see if the battery is fine. If no-replace the battery. If ok continue. Secondly, Connect the battery to the scooter and connect a volt meter to the battery terminals. Expect no less than 12.2 volts. Now start the scooter engine and watch the volt meter. A/ Does it drop. If it Drops, then not charging. B/ Does it increase. If it increases it should read up to 13.6-14.6 volts but not above this. C/ Does it stay at original battery reading? Does it stay the same, Not charging. -------------------------- So which one is it? To be continued.------------------
@@scooterstreetau it drops down below 12v i have changed the stator and the volt regulator and it still wont charge. i think that i got a defekt stator because when i installed the new stator it would not start with the electric start and would only start with kick start. when i put the old one back it started right up and the voltage still dropped down with the new stator
@@scooterstreetau i got the new stator and it now charges the battery but now it wont start on electric start and only starts with kick start. can you please help me?
PLEASE, PUT A BIGGER CARB AND REPLACE THE AIRBOX WITH A CONE FILTER, THIS IS A GREAT CILINDER BUT IT'S WASTED WITH THAT ALIMENTATION. p.s. I work with malossi
We have replied to this same comment multiple times. If you read the description we mentioned that this was only the first stage of the build. As a shop we work to our customers instructions, who wanted to build the scooter in stages to break up the cost. We will do an update video of this bike shortly, it has since had a fair bit more work done including 21mm carb with pod filter, inner rotor ignition, full over range transmission among a number of other significant upgrades to the chassis.
HEY GUYS, UPDATE ON THIS VIDEO HAS BEEN UPLOADED, SEE HERE>>>>
ruclips.net/video/iYmaoBAMDuA/видео.html&ab_channel=ScooterStreet
Just a random tip, you guys probably already know this but for everyone who doesn’t. on the sr 50 r and probably more bikes, you can balance the light switch in the middle to make both the high and low beam be turned on at once:)
Great tip, we often do this as it balances the look from the front👌 We connect the wiring for the head light behind the front panel, using press clips to make the join, very simple for anyone to do.
Extremely helpful and indepth, thank you guys!
Thank you. 👍
@34:13 you forgot the circlip. Great tutorial ...
Hi Joshua, another comment, thank you for the positive comment🙏. No we did not, did you watch the video? You have overlooked some important info.
Can you watch all of our videos and pick out our bloops, leave the comments please.🤙
Read every single comment while watching and was surprised you guys actually replied to every single one! Explained everything in great detail without making it boring. I didnt skip 10sec one time, nice tips along the way
Underrated channel for sure
Got a new sub
We really appreciate the comment, and yes we take this fun seriously. Thank heaps mate🦘👍
@@scooterstreetau which oil with good smell For 2T separate lubrication
@@DoM-Inik Years ago there was a Strawberry scented 2T oil. Now days I don't know....
@@scooterstreetau yes there is still but more up Rizinus based. 15 years ago was in every oil Rizinus included. today if you are looking for one stands by only for mixture lubrication
@@DoM-Inik I am not sure.
Ive got that exact crank on my Gilera Runner. that thing increases compression Massively!! I Just couldn't kick it with the Stage6 kick messed up a pair of shoes trying haha... had to swap for the original kick.
Dont think those bearings will last tho.. for this type of engine you really want to go with ceramic bearings! These kits rev a lot and the crank gets HOT! They warp and eventually get messed up.. blew both bearings at the same time after around 400km.. luckily didnt damage my crank, only got some scratches.
Thats a beast of a build!
this kit rev up to 10000 rpm not the same as mhr team so the bearings and crank are fine.most of time the seals will blow on the ignition side.use only c3 bearings with steel cage, c4 are sucks not made for daily driving.btw those stage 6 kicks are piece of crap.a few kicks and the threads broke.nice for the show but useless.
@@dokesz530 are you sure?? being an alu kit with a single ring in the piston and that massive bridged exhaust port?? that sounds like it can rev 14,000 easy!!! ive got a s6 mk2 racing ported revin 13.5k rpm and she wants more I just need another pipe that can do it .. You can turn these things into rpm chassers.
All it takes is the owner swaping to lighter rollers simply by hearing the biggest myth "lighter rollers = +accel" lol.
With these little details i'd rather not take any chances buddy... true the boss got a higher squish and whatnot to maintain lower temps, but still, i dont trust that area of the engine with steel bearings.. and i dont like to swap them either, ceramic lasts a lot more ✌️
Hey i had this same bearing and my setup is exact like the video. My bearing lasted only 200km. Melted cages on both sides. So what ceramic bearings did u use? Make and type?
@@peter0139 SKF does them for minarelli.
Im not sure, but i think malossi only does hybrid, ceramic balls with metal cage.
I ordered mine from the local factory in Malta, asked them to do 100% ceramic, they are white.. just gave them the measurements and they made them fresh... almost 1000km on a pair and no weird vibrations or sounds.. still going really smooth!!
I would do some things diffrent here.
1: put at least a 24 carb on it.
2: the expantion of a c16 is to small for this cylinder. C21 would be better.
3: never runn this kinda setups on a stock oil pump. Pre mix is the way to go here.
Hi Brando, thanks for your input. As a shop we're limited to the customers instructions, but this was only the first stage of the build for this customer. The bike has since been heavily upgraded with 21mm carb, inner rotor ignition, full over range transmission, gear up kit, ect. When we have built race bikes, we have always deleted the oil pump in favour of premix (for endurance races particularly this allows the use of the oil tank as an extra fuel tank for less fuel stops too). On this bike in in particular the selection of the exhaust and maintaining the use of the oil pump was mainly due to its need for daily practicality and the customers desire for reliability. The bike has done a couple thousand kms of hard riding since, and had no issue whatsoever with oiling, which has been the case over the 10+ years we've been working with these cylinders on street use scooters. I can for sure understand your preference for premix👍
You obviously know what you are doing guys but when heating the crank cases do it from the outside not directly onto the bearing journals, you need to heat sink the casing so the heat stays in the area, doing the journal direct doesnt give you enough time or get nearly enough heat in hence you had to twat the bearing in, it will also help to illiminate your "residual bearing tension" ..., a small (2mm wide) bead of instant gasket down the middle of the joint face is a better practice than smearing it all over 👍
We love these comments, we really appreciate this information, we will try for sure as you never stop learning👍
The hardened oil and fuel lines can be replaced with silicone lines, these are more flexible and less likely to harden over time although they are slightly more expensive.
Great video guys very comprehensive enjoyed watching.
Thanks heaps Craig. We actually have an update coming very soon. Just fitting some panels and running some small repairs as it was off the road.
This SR is going to be a fast little scoot.
Could really do with a gear up kit, and a better carb. If it was mine I would probably run pre mix too. I guess it's what the customer wants though.
Defiantly change the tyres for something better.
Really enjoyable video. 👏
no need to premix with this kit.you can adjust the oil pump lever.
Just wait Paul, there will be more to come... 🤙
@@dokesz530 it's always safe to premix even if you have a working oil pump. So in the event the oil pump fails. The pre mix is there to keep the engine from blowing up.
@@JDMz ok but more chance to foul the sparkplug also readings are not optimal.
@@dokesz530 but hard to know when at 40:1 though.
I would just remove the guessing.
Hey there, love your channel! What are the torque specs of the bolts holding the block together, and for the cylinder head? Much appreciated
Thank you very much 😁👍. Check out this link for all the Specs. Page 26.
dokumen.tips/documents/aprilia-sr50r-workshop-manual.html?page=26
Great video again mate! I’ll have another upload soon of my zip 70 pushing 80mph 😀😀🏴
Thanks Zep. On a zip...souunds like an awesome ride. Stay tuned for more upgrades on this ☝️ build.
@@scooterstreetau always mate! Love your content and I love zips😍 👍🏻
@@zepszip Legend🤟
Fantastic video
Thanks! 😃
45:10 the coolant goes from the "outlet on the top of the head" to the "elbow"(the bottom part) or from the "elbow"(the bottom part) to the "outlet on the top of the head"? Thank you!!!
When the engine is cold running at idle, take care to remove the line at the head and water will be flowing.
nice video but you are not suppost to go full acceleration in the first 300km i think
In the previous comments we have replied to this with what we have found: Pasted..
Everyone has difference of opinion to run or not to run. I would say to what you think is best for you.
We tested several scooters using both methods: Running them in against thrashing them flat out non stop over a short and long period. We also ran new builds in the 24 hour Leminz race with no run in and there was no damage or compression loss in any of the machines, they were dismantled afterwards and the bore, rings and piston were in excellent condition. My info is only based on my experiences doing this not many times but hundreds of times over decades. One thing I can say is that it is absolute is to ensure the fuelling, air and oil system are working before riding.
I love malossi, but I would’ve loved to se you youse a Athena evo cylender. Love the content! Keep going!
Thank you so much for the positive comments, 🥰
We've used some Athena parts previously and been impressed with the quality for sure! We usually go with what we know works on a customer scooter, but would be willing to test some more Athena products if the chance arose👍
And happy new year!
🍻😎
Loved you're video man
Thank you🙌
Awesome stuff as always I would like to see a full aerox build
I have a Yamaha JogR so maybe One day......
Can i ask if it is possible to put a quik action throttle and electric start button separately? And do you know where i can buy a start button?
Yes, the throttle can be made to suit and the start button can be wired in the start power line anywhere on the front legshield..
You fussed over the squish but why didn't you find a sealer product to coat the entire steel shim base gasket? If the molecules of antifreeze can leak past the gasket then the molecules of air will surely leak past also as they are much smaller.
Hi Smoke skull, We have had losses and victories based on the squish so I guess we did not want others to suffer the many mistakes we have made previously. We do use a red Temp friendly sealant but not usually on a base gasket, definitely something we will try if we ever get a leak, thank you👍
if u have the sr factory means purejet u dont have issues installing exhaust.also i did use malossi coil but i fit next to the cdi.probably the sr carb version is way different.grease or change the brake pads they doesnt sound good.did u guys bleed the oil pump too cuz i missing that part.dont worry about the jet size,tell the customer he need to upgrade it to 19 or 21 mm.
Nice thanks for sharing the knowledge👌
Long time since you uploaded. Hope you guys are doing good greetings from Denmark.
Hi Martin, Yes it has, Brad was in the role of Video production and he is no longer with us. I do plan to do more but the shop has taken my time. Stay well until then.
I’ve heard that tapping on the end of the crank can throw the trueness of the crank off. The only force that cranks can hold is vertical rotational force not horizontal force. What do you think?
Agree! As much care taken is the best approach. In reality do your best with what you have.
Always thought with them bearings the polymer faces the crank side
We have used them a number of times in race bikes we've build previously for 24hr endurance races, and have installed them both ways. Upon pulling the engine back down after the race, not seen any noticeable difference either way. The reason we install them this way in the video is due to the lubrication of the balls being best this direction. Though the Piaggio engine has oil galleries which allow fuel/air/oil to pass to the outer side of the bearing, the majority of mixture is passing through the centre of the crank. When installed there is a fair bit of gap between the bearing and the crank lobe for oil to pass into and lubricate the balls.
24:21 how do you ensure you get it as close as possible to the crank casing before bolting it on when all you can do is just place one on top of another via gravity? You either placed it correctly or didn't?
You missed the point. but all good.
Hello, i have an aprilia sr50r carb with a 65cc Malossi cylinder kit,a stage 6 exhaust,a Malossi variator and weighs, red clutch springs and a 21mm Dellorto carb but I don’t know what else to do to make it faster, do you have any suggestions?thanks
Upgrade the parts you have to higher class, mid race or higher. The cylinder can be upgraded, the transmission can move to an over range kit. An inner rotor ignition could be fitted too. Do your research into these parts prior to committing.
@@scooterstreetau thank you 🙏🏻
hello, nice video.
I have a derby GP1 V2 piaggio engine, I would install the same cylinder, 21mm carburettor, but I would like to know which variomat is more suitable for this cylinder, malossi multivar or malossi MHR team 2?
of course, it should be taken into account that this model does not have a foot starter, but only an electric starter
thank you
You do not really have many options, you must use a Variator which does not exclude the electric starter.
@@scooterstreetau thank you
After which point of the whole tuning process would you recommend replacing the factory oil pump and start premixing the oil?
If the oil pump fails or you have lost faith in its ability to pump the desired amount of oil.
Great video! Whats the better shock for road/commuting? the YSS or the Bitubo?
Thanks mate. The Bitubo has a high quality feel and performs so well. Both are good options and there are several options in the brand range.. Would recommend to buy above the standard you require.
Nice build. Since you are in the process of building, I was wondering would you happen to know the torque specs for the intake manifold bolts?
We use 3 - 4 NM. It is rubber sealed so a liquid gasket and a light approach is best.
Is the squish test / measurement really necessary with just a regular daily Rider Street sport kit ?
We believe it is even though you cant change much in a sport kit in terms of the gasket thickness. We do it with all of our builds.
I must apologise for my comment, i did not read the comments and description (i should have). I'm currently in the proces of getting a scooter just like this one :)
Hey no problem NWN🙌. I answer every message and many are repeat Qs. So we update the Description hoping viewers have a quick read. Hit me up if the future if you need assistance and I will gladly help you out🦘👍
I have a sr50 2020. Setup: s6 srace; dellorto phbg 21mm; s6 reed valve and straight intake manifold; athena air filter; malossi multivar;rhq.
Which exhaust is better with this setup yasuni c16 or r1200?
They both have their benefits, R1200 is great top end pipe(racing) where the C16 has a wider power range and would be tuned better for street. So it depends n your usage..
you are not supposted to go with full acceleration the first 300km
Everyone has difference of opinion to run or not to run. I would say to what you think is best for you.
We tested several scooters using both methods: Running them in against thrashing them flat out non stop over a short and long period. We also ran new builds in the 24 hour Leminz race with no run in and there was no damage or compression loss in any of the machines, they were dismantled afterwards and the bore, rings and piston were in excellent condition. My info is only based on my experiences doing this not many times but hundreds of times over decades. One thing I can say is that it is absolute is to ensure the fuelling, air and oil system are working before riding.
Is there a reason why u didnt do a run in process? Usually with a top end replacement a run in is needed
We do our run in on every build.
Hey man I have the full malossi 94cc kit but having trouble setting up the 28mm dellorto carb that came with the kit.
Q: would u know how many turns out do we do the fuel mixture screw? 😒 and what should be the right size Main fuel jet? Thanks heaps
The main jet will take many jet changes and hours of trial and testing to get it correct, the mixture start at 1 turn out.
Hey i saw your video i wantet to ask.I want to put a new exaust yasuni r and i want to put new rollers 3.6g or 4g. If i do those mods what else do i need to switch i have an Aprilia sr50r
Hi, You will need to adjust jetting, air, variator/rollers and clutch.
I have aprilia sr50 and i want to upgrade 70cc i was thinking malossi mhr replica with polini exhaust forrace 4 and also with a carb 21mm and a reinforced crankshaft. How much you think my scooter will go
Also i have a polini cluth and a malossi mhr team cluthbell
Consider a higher class cylinder for this exhaust and carby...I know you will be treating the transmission with some gifts as well so overall your expecting speeds of 100KPH+. The MHR rep would be good for the street race.
Noice👍
I'm planning to overhaul my '98 Zip RST (AC) to liquid cooling. What would be the ideal LC configuration - getting an electric water pump or using, like, the Stage6 R/T MK2 water impeller?
I would say it depends whther yours has the early engine or the later engine. Our experience is only with the Hiper2 which I believe to have been sold since '99. Having liquid cooled a factory AC zip myself, the issue with running a factory type water pump is the AC casing hasnt been machined for the bearings. The electric pump is an easy solution. I did have some issues with the electric pump flow rate being too high, and not allowing the coolant to pass through the radiator slow enough to cool adequately. Malossi make a special variable speed water pump controller for their liquid pump, I would hazard a guess and say they have experience a similar issue which the controller resolves. I solved mine by keeping the factory thermostat in place.
Witch hi-per 2 engine scooter do you think is the best for stunting and wheelies
ZIP SP.
The best variator between mallosi multivar, polini hi-speed and stage 6 pro?
multivar - piaggio 50cc
hi-speed - minerali 50cc
tested polini speed control with stage 6 cnc drive and malossi mhr multivar with the ventilvar (oversize) on piaggio. go with malossi
Malossi MHR Over Range, hands down the best variator available for most 50cc 2 strokes.
@@rockys777 Agree
Can I buy the SKF Polyamide high rpm crank bearing to suit my Yamaha Aerox Minarelli?
Yes they are available. I know Malossi have the bearings with polyamide cages. C3 clearance.
Do a video on installing polini parts on zip
Polini is not a Sponsor of our ours so we tend not to use their products so much... thanks for comment.
About the bearings, isnt it actually that the polymer cage bearings are built not to take more than 120°C for a long time, as stage 6 says?
Thanks Roger, good to know. We have had a difference experience with them. We have used these bearings in several race bikes we have built and run 24hr races with. Stage 6 may use the same SKF bearings as Malossi, I'm not sure.
Hello, i am going to buy a 70cc cyllinder and malossi wildlion to a piaggio, its going to be in dailt use and i want something that last longest possible and have power, what cyllinder du u recomend? Thinking about airsal 70cc aluminium or malossi sport 70cc cast iron but whats better? Castiron or aluminium for my use?
Buy Quality, and a Brand that supports with spare parts, 3 brands come to mind. An Aluminium Cyl. would offer better performance. The longevity will come through the care management of the engine and the scooter in general. Regular service and maintaining the key parts of the engine are what makes a good scooter a Great Scooter.🛵
@@scooterstreetau thanks, but what cyllinder would you recomend on a setup that is for daily use and wheelies, a airsal 70cc aluminium or a malossi sport 70cc castiron
@@truku8702 Aluminium.
Aprillia SR 125 next?
HI Barry, There were only only a few of these bought into Australia. I have only ever seen one in 22 years.
What is the tool you used to pull the fly wheel off and what size do i need thanks
Flywheel puller. www.scooterstreet.com.au/product/flywheel-puller-extractor-tool-for-aprilia-piaggio-50cc-2t-models-except-ditech/
ruclips.net/video/TKGI8VRHQEM/видео.html&ab_channel=ScooterStreet
I have a 09 sr50 with fuel injection. Have you ever come across a one that wants a big bore kit that wants to keep the fuel injection? I seen a malossi 70 cc kit with the new computer. Have you had good success with leaving the fuel injection in? I have had many zuma's and roughhouse's but this is a whole new scooter to me. Thank you for any info. I love your videos!
Yes we have done many of these before and the BBK and the efi works fine. In the early days there was not an option to convert to carby so they were all injected with BBK.. Be sure to have all systems operating in good order.
@@scooterstreetau I just got it a few days ago. It runs and rides gold. It has a arrow exhaust and that's all I know of. I have got it up to 51. It liked to stay around 47 with me. I'm 6ft 250. I was hoping to see 60mph with the 70cc malossi kit. I will also get a variator and spring. What rollers would you recommend? Anything else in forgetting? Thank you for the reply, I'm just trying not to forget anything. Do they gain quite a bit with the 70cc?
@@scooterstreetau it was missing the stock airbox/filter. I'm also trying to find one of those.
@@levimorris6455 Take the 70cc kit, 2 x spark plugs, Air filter, inline fuel filter, Adjustable clutch, Variator and a few sets of rollers 2 below original weight and one above.
@@levimorris6455 Good idea..
Very nice video !
I too have Aprilia SR50R and wanted to ask what exhaust I should get. Now I have installed Malossi Sport 70cc kit, 17,5 carb, malossi variator kit and I was wondering about Yasuni R exhaust. Is it good for my low end setup ?
Absolutely, the R would be an ideal choice for that setup. It'll give you great performance without over-exhausting the cylinder kit.
@@scooterstreetau Thanks for the reply.
hi, i just bought a piaggio zip 2stroke, its stock but im going to tune it, im going to have 70cc but nothing extreme, just for daily use and wheelies, what exhoust sholud i buy) yazuni z? wildlion?....
Daily use you may lean toward the Wild Lion. I say this because the down low power is there instantly and street riding without gaining too much attention is the best outcome. She looks standard but hammers on that red light. Go for a higher class BBK.
@@scooterstreetau Would it be a big difference of speed and power between wild lion and yazuni z? The setup i was thinking about was malossi 70cc sport, One of the 2 exhousts, lower weights, stiffer springs and the malossi red sponge filter
And what spped u think i wil get in the end?
@@eliaslien-hgeland457 The Z will offer more top speed. All about budget too.
@@eliaslien-hgeland457 You would expect approximately 90kph.
Hi! I am interested to build a 70cc Stage6 MK2 Kit, but i have no clue what crankshaft should i pick for reliability. My idea so far to engine is: Stage6 70cc MK2 Racing, Stage6 R/T PWK 26mm and Stage6 Intake kit. Near my country i could get Stage6 Pro Replica crankshaft but i don't know if it's good enough, first time building engine like this. I have tried to google, but cannot find anything. :(
I have a SR50 R 2010(?) without fuel injection so normal carburetor engine with 17.5mm dellorto.
Greetings from Finland
Edit: I am also trying to cool the motor by replacing the mechanical water pump by a electrical one.
This set up your listing is very nice🚀. A higher class crank may be a better long term option.....We use the Malossi RHQ crankshafts with 39.3 Stroke. Look around and speak with other Scooter Tuners about their experiences.. Reliable and quality. Always remember to replace the small end bearing at regular intervals.
Using the same cylinder kit would a polini cp21 carb and a r1200 run well on a piaggio zip or do I need a bigger carb. I have stage 6 full race cvt set. Was thinking of going to a 24mm carb or maybe even 26mm and also what would be the best gear wheels to run with this set up. Thanks
And also what size main jet would I run if u can give me a range that would be great I know that’s it’s always best to start rich and lean out as much as necessary
@@crbcairo.1633 Need more info.
@@scooterstreetau I have a paggio zip lc two stroke. I run a mhr team 70 like shown in the video, mhr rhq full circle crank, stage 6 oversized cvt kit(variator (7.2 g weights) clutch, torque drive, drive belt, etc) stock ignition. I need to know what carb to run I believe a 19mm is to small for this set up. I also need to decide wether the stage 6 r1200 or the c16 is the better exhaust to run and lastly I am looking at upgrading my gear wheel set any suggestions?
@@crbcairo.1633 The 19 will be ok and give good down low, but ultimately the larger carb will take all of the parts to another lever. Inner rotor ignition will change the game on your setup.
@@scooterstreetau what size carb would u recommend
Hello
I have 09 sr70 with mallosi crank and cylinder kit, its carb converted but i have polini cp24mm, with open filter but i cant get it running, do you think i need to go with smaller carb or any jetting suggestion ?
Test, Compression, Air, Spark, Fuel....
@@scooterstreetau compression is good because it start sometimes on idle but once you give gas a little over 2.000rpm i shuts down and spits from exhaust , do you know by any chance what main jet should i use or just to start from somewhere
@@mileeftimov4665 If you thin it is rich lower the main jet size, did you check these as I mentioned before. Test, Compression, Air, Spark, Fuel...
Hello i just wanna ask wich exhaust is better gianelli shot v4 or yasuni c16
For 70cc
It would depend on what class of 70cc kit your have chosen. The Yasuni C16 is leaning toward the performance cylinder over the sport class. Giannelli Shot V4 will give you excellent performance all round, offers benefits in low to mid range torque. The V4 has an improved header pipe over the V3, just change the packing often to keep the noise down.
Hello, random question,can i ask what the cable connected to the throttle and the transmission is for? (The one thats connected with the throttle cable) on aprilia sr50
Oil pump.
hello i have aprilia sr50 all standarc from factori do you have any suggestions i want to put auspuh gianeli rekord and i want from you a sugestion what kind of weight and spirng to set for a better performance ?
The Rekord is a good street exhaust, we would recommend installing the yellow set of Malossi clutch springs to suit that bike, and somewhere around the 5.5-6g rollers depending on the rider weight and preference👍
Awesame video! What size is the carby with that 122 jet? Is it a 17,5? also what about the automatic oiling Is that enough for the extra fuel? or do you premix? Thanx
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! Yes its the factory 17.5. The customer wanted to do the build in stages, core engine parts first. We have since installed a larger PHBG 21 with a pod filter, the bike is making significantly more power. We will be doing an update video on this bike soon. Regarding the oil pump, we usually only delete the pump for dedicated race bikes, track only. The factory oil pump does an excellent job of lubricating the engine, the butterfly system which increases the oil pumping with the throttle is ingenious. The system is also adjustable, we often use the cable adjustment where the cable enters the crank casing to tension the cable, increasing the pumping. This particular bike has since done a couple thousand kms with no oiling issues. It mostly comes down to preference, the pump is certainly very convenient.
@@scooterstreetau Thank you for your great answer. Love the videos, I learn a lot! ;) greetings from Hungary!
I think I will stick with the 17.5, if it will work fine. I am not about to go racing. But I have a similar malossi kit, malossi belt, rollers, everything. So it should work fine then.
@@andrasikjonatan Thank you for kind comments.. And upgrade to the carby is recommended with this cylinder kit, but follow your budget and ENJOY✌️
keen to put a 70cc kit on my typhoon , do you need to gap the rings or are they pre-gapped ?
The Malossi Cylinder is set and ready to install, we always measure the piston to cylinder clearance pre install and then the squish once installed.. We recently fitted the headless kit to a 2018 model Typhoon with the results being very impressive.
You placed a new oli line between the pump and rhe carburator Did you pre fill this oil line?
Sure did, always pre-prime lines! Hard to tell in the video.
@@scooterstreetau always nice to see you answer all questions. This helped me allot to understand things.
@@peter0139 Thanks for noticing. Yes we always try to answer every single question or comment.👌
Do you have any idea what could cause dim rear light? Break light work just fine but the running back light is barely visible. I changed the bulb but no effect. I allready ordered a new stator just in case but was wondering is there something in between stator and the back light that could cause this? Its an aprilia sr 2008 carb.
Ohh I have seen this before, my brain cant pull the file.... Check the power wire from tail light to switch and power source, check the headlights and all contacts associated with the running lights. From memory it was the feed wire at the junction from the lighting coil on the stator..
@@scooterstreetau Yeah the thing is that front lights work just fine so it makes me think that the problem would not be the problem but instead in the wiring.
Is this the same engine as in a Suzuki ay50? I been told that some do
Suzuki is a Morini engine, yes.
@@scooterstreetau ah that’s good finally be able to find some info etc bc I can’t find any information on the ay50
@@joshuasalisbury789 If you run a google search you will find some info.. Pictures and history and all sorts of stuff.
How do u fix a scooter smc mistrail 50 that is making a wierd noice when the belt expands, its a sharp sound and i know its not suppost to make that sound. It shakes the whole Atv, i dont know how to fix it though. Please help me identfy the problem😁
You need to identify where the sound comes from, which part of the transmission? Check the Variator and check the rear pulley.
@@scooterstreetau its more of a slip, but its hard to identify where the sound comes from because its when driving, it makes my atv notch, it feels like the variator slips for 0.1 second and then keeps on driving and i know its not good, sound like a backfire or something is not tight enough when the belt expands, but we checked the variator with the weight rollers are, but we dont know much about the clutch, what do you think it can be? Thank you for answering fast:)
@@sondremoldestad3563 You need to carefully check each part, a thorough check of each part could reveal what the issue is. Look for worn or damaged components. It may not be in the transmission, it could be the engine.
You can rev the engine while the scooter is on the main stand as long as it is safe and secure, this may reveal exactly where the noise is being generated.
I have a aerox with a 70cc kit and a polini highspeed variator with 5,6g rollers. IT doesnt get the belt all the way out on the variator and dont want to get over 80kmh. Do you have any tips?
First question? Did the belt go all the way out before you starting modifying?
If YES, what was the change that affected this belt travel? Was it the Variator, has the variator been installed with the correct spacing? Has any other parts of the transmission changed, Torque spring.
@@scooterstreetau it has never been all the way out idk why. I also have changed the clutch and springs to a mallossi
@@Vatland. Does the Front pulley have the freedom to close together without the belt (touching faces)? At this point you will need to isolate the moving parts (front and rear pulleys)as to find out if they are restricting the belt travel. Front pulley must be able to close which pushes the belt to the top, rear pulley must be able to open all the way to its mechanical stopping point which allows the belt to travel forward, so it may sit in the very centre of the rear pulley.
@@scooterstreetau Ok am gonna look into it more
I have a question too. I have Aerox 50cc with uprated 17.5 dellorto PHVA. I'll install a Malossi sport 70cc kit ( the one with the black head) and Yasuni R exhaust + TPR crankshaft. My question is what is a safe jet size to start with and go down? And also are 3.5 grams roller weights okay to start with?
Start at a 94 main jet, it will be rich but safe to start here, it largely depends on the air intake too (POD requires more fuelling). You may end up at 84 or near.
Rollers: 3.5gram would be the minimum weight... with rollers you can start low and then bring up the weight with a test in between each change and you will end up at a weight that suits your set up. (4.8g perhaps).
@@scooterstreetau As the air intake standard airbox with high flow mallosi filter. DO I need to derestrict it btw( remove the snorkel)?
@@iy1741 Once you have the initial jetting and performance at its best, then you can start to open up the air box and jet up to suit. Taking out the snorkel is a big air increase, so tread slowly..👍
@@scooterstreetau Thanks for the advice one last question for you guys. What do you think would be an ideal clutch spring to use with the setup above. I'm thinking blue clutch springs and a red contra/tension spring but not sure...
@@iy1741 Some things to think about: This engine can handle a higher class cylinder kit, if the budget allows then go for it. Again with the clutch if the budget allows then upgrade the clutch to a higher performance and adjustable clutch, Polini make a great clutch, the G3. If limited budget then go for a 4000-5000rpm clutch spring set.
What do you guys think of airsal sport 70 piaggio lc as a daily driver ? And will the stock piaggio crank be able to hold it ?
The Airsal gives good low down power and that is the fun for scootering. Yes the Crank can handle this cylinder, but we always recommend to replace a worn part whether it be the crank and bearing set or the spark plug, keep it good order and you will get the best return👌
@@scooterstreetau thanks alot ill probably instal the airsal sport 70 and will it fit with the giannelli reverse ? Becouze now i have the reverse with stock piaggio 50cc cyl, and the low end torque is what i want becouze the stock 50 needs to "load up" until it picks up even tho mine is ported but its still kinda slow of the line 🙄. Also is the airsal sport reliable ? Or not ? :DD thanks for the info ✌️
@@domasjan8900 Check the rings on the kit you go for, single or twin ring? The twin ring pistons tend to have a longer life. The Reverse is a great exhaust and requires mid to high RPM to get going. Sharpen the clutch springs and tune the variator rollers. Don't forget to JET.
hi I was wondering if it is possible to water cool an aprilia sr mt. I have the euro 4 model. Also I have an issue where the screen sometimes does not turn on when I switch the ignition to on. I changed the battery on my bike but that did not solve the issue. What could be causing this problem?
Yes it is possible to water cool this engine, If you buy the cooling system for the ZIP SP or SR50R both water cooled you can retro fit the parts to suit: H2O cylinder, radiator, water pump and so on.
Check the wire harness and the connections that power the dash, follow the wires from the ignition to see if the power is flowing to the dash connector.
where do you buy the parts beacuse i cant find original parts anywhere
We sell the parts... We are an online scooter parts store.
didn't grease the seals
Yes please grease the seal with a light smear so lubed at first start.
Is there any cheaper and easier way to make my aprillia sr 50 r go 60km+?
Yeah just do the basic derestriction. Variator ring.
What would be the total parts cost to do this? Thanks.
$1500 plus.
Hi. I was thinking to put a Stage 6 sport pro kit with a Doppler endurance crankshaft combined with my yasuni r. I’m also running a 19mm (PHBG) carburetor which is a bit small. Would this be good ? Thanks in advance.
This sounds really good👍👍 The Crank , Yas R and carby can handle a higher class of Cylinder but still this will be a fine ride.
@@scooterstreetau thanks. I was hesitant that my setup wouldn't be able to support the racing version. I'll probably consider buying it then the sports version.
Can you recommend "some" website i can get aftermarket replacement parts for my Vitacci Spark 150cc. Your channel would help me a ton ff you would ever show vids on this model..BTW
Start by buying a 2 stroke thats not chinese, then ill promise you, you will get speed
Hi ACP, welcome back. So sorry but unfortunately in Australia we do not have this model, Vitacci Spark 150cc. So we have no information or experience with this model. I have done research and it looks like it is sold in the USA. Try to find a local dealer and they may be able to direct you to an aftermarket parts supply, or try here: www.scooterdynasty.com/spark1504tac.aspx👍
Can you install a 47.6 cylinder while having a standard Aerox crankshaft?
At 47.6 you should upgrade the crankshaft. Most Brands will advise on which crankshaft to match with the relevant kit.
@@scooterstreetau Okey Thank You for the Information ♥️
@@gh0st_15_6 🙌
what variator are you using on this engine?
Watch the Update video and we discuss the transmission at 4:30
ruclips.net/video/iYmaoBAMDuA/видео.html&ab_channel=ScooterStreet
hello would like some ideas how could get best hi speed out of my Piaggio Typhoon 125 4t 2011 please ???
Get a 2t lmfao 🤣
A performance variator will help it a fair bit with acceleration, but unfortunately the Piaggio Leader engine in that bike isn't build for performance. Its like a tractor engine, will run forever - just not quickly.
Hello i have Aprilia Sr 50 Stock 2011?Which exhaust to put on the stock kit?I I want yasuni.
For the factory 50cc cylinder the Yasuni Z is a great option. If you're going to install a 70cc cylinder kit in the future, the R would be the way to go.
Hello, I bought a new cylinder, gilera stalker 50, Piaggio engine, and after 4 days of running-in, I removed the cylinder and it has a fine scratch that can be felt with a fingernail, guys, where did And the guys from the website where I got the set told me that after running in it will disappear, I don't know what to say, is there any problem? the scooter starts well both hot and cold, sorry for my bad English
I am not sure, without seeing it is hard to comment but generally a new cylinder should only have the cross hatch marks on it or nothing if it is Nikasil.
@@scooterstreetau unfortunately, due to the fault of the needle bearing, those scratches appeared, I will change the needle bearing and try to repair the scratches by honing, the piston and segments are not affected, thank you
@@GeorgeBGP I am not following, did the bearing let go and damage the new cylinder?
@@scooterstreetau The bearing with that was seized, all its balls stopped moving or whatever they are called,I don't use the oil pump for a long time, I use a mixture in the tank 25ml per liter, I don't know what to say :(((
@@GeorgeBGP Replace all of the damaged parts👍
Hi is this scooter only with exhaust and cylinder fitted?
No. See the description and the comments.
I have planned, are there any improvements to the CVT system, variator, clutch and others.
@@ГеоргиГ-о2р Yes.
Is it very loud
Yes it has a cracking 2 stroke sound.
Did IT break the oil pump belt?
Customer fitted parts at home and it went BANG💥
Hi have a problem with mine scooters oil pump gear I cannot seem to take it off any help?
Remove the Oil pump, now the oil pump gear should slide off once the pump has been removed..
@@scooterstreetau yeah i think its stuck I've tried to pull it out but it won't move at all
Sorry to bother you more, but do you have, any experience with piaggio LC? i think my aprilia sr50 has a piaggio engine it's powered by 17.5mm dellorto, i have tried to read germany/italy forums about it but cannot understand anything :D i still need clutch kit and was wondering what kit i should buy? Im really gratefull of the info i have gotten so far from this channel!
Thank you for your comment. We have owned many Piaggio LC engines and many hours of work but always still learning. Try for a performance clutch with adjustment of the spring, Polini G3 is a great option.
Should i put the stage6 88cc kit on my D50B0 engine? And what mods do i need to run that thing? 28mm carb and a exhaust?
Have a chat with the guys when buying the kit, get a full list of what is required to run the kit effectively. With these builds you really need to go all out and commit to an upgrade on every component.
Čau😁
i my self dont have the 88cc kit but if you are going to put it you need to do a bit of work to the crankcase
and yes the 28mm carb is enough but a bigger 30mm carb would be better. for exhaust a 80-90cc exhaust is perfect
Improperly mounted bearings because Teflon bearings are mounted, closed with a part towards the shaft !!!
Thanks for sharing your opinion, good to know👍
Could you put this engine into a ZIP?
There is an air cooled version to fit the Zip and other AC Piaggio models.
@@scooterstreetau I want to do a LC conversion
@@Yadonemessedupayeayeron You need the ZIP SP, it is a LC Zip .
@@scooterstreetau I'm in Perth WA we only get the AC here
@@Yadonemessedupayeayeron You would need to buy the parts from the LC Zip and fit them to the air Zip, expensive but very cool project.
hello, minits 12:31 those lines above the flywheel on the crankcase, I also have those 3 lines, or what are they called, but mine are longer and bumpy, is there a problem?
I think you refer to the 3 marks near the bolt hole.. these are marks from the casting, no problem.
@@scooterstreetau yes, the ones on the crankcase,but I have two other Piaggio engines and they are not as deep, but the engine ran perfectly, probably those three lines are from the factory like this
now I see closer at minute 21:35 next to the left brake, that part of the crankcase has the same 3 lines as mine
@@GeorgeBGP Yes I believe this is true.
Will there be an update on this bike ?
I was taken off the road😒
@@scooterstreetau oh why’s that mate?
@@l3W477 the owner has decided to pull it off the road to do some repairs to the body and frame.
Which exhaust would be the best for a peugot ludix with 50cc fast air cooled cilinder?
For the 50cc engine we like the Yasuni Z. The best is arguable and up to the user but many of the 50cc class engines respond very well to the Leading Brand exhausts.
@@scooterstreetau thank you!
@@tiemenjansma4685 👍👍
your customer needs a 20 mm dellorto carb :) and hpi racer ignition :)
@Blaster7 21 enough this isnt a team one.but it has a freaking bridge exhaust port which is the most critical part for the piston.i never liked it.
Stay tuned for the update. The entire build is not shown here.
I have a question. I have a Gilera Runner with an Airsal 70cc sport kit and a 17,5 carb and a polini hi speed variator what type of pipe would work the best with my setup?
The Yasuni R will be great for what you have, you will need to tune Variator and rejet.
C16 is also good
@@maarten1645 Yasuni C16 is an excellent performing exhaust! Do you think it is better suited to higher class cylinders?
@@scooterstreetau at least for hiper-2 lc engines it comes with a single-ring piston, it would benefit greatly with a c16, and the 17,5mm is also good considering you have a stock crank. A 21mm carb would be on the limit side of pia stock cranks. I have a Hiper-1 AC short drum brake engine on my zip, with mhr racing 70cc kit, 21mm carb, stock crank, c16, hiper-2 variator with 19x15,5mm rollers and a hebo racing clutch. tops at 90km/h but sometimes do stress a bit while pushing it, because stock crank :). in hindsight - yasuni r or c16, depending on budget.
@@bb_adrians4672 Awesome, thanks for sharing🙏✌️
Hello! My sr50 2020 is completely stock and my exhaust is glowing red in catalyic converter area. Is this normal or not. Can someone please answer.
This occurs due to huge amount of heat generated by the cylinder, the restricted exhaust restricts the flow and traps the heat due to the baffle and restrictors inside. Sometimes the new exhaust will burn out paint and new materials from manufacturing. This can also happen when you use certain types of fuels. If you are worried get it checked out.
@@scooterstreetau Can I ride it with Catalyic converter overheated?
@@rokileo1309 There are no Cat Converters in your scooter exhaust. As mentioned above, If you are worried get it checked out.
Do you know any unrestricted Cdi’s for that scooter?
Yes, There are several on the market, Malossi TC Unit and also Inner Rotor ignitions.
Is the airsal 70cc sport twin ring piston kit good?
It's alright. Not the greatest. My go to is either malossi. Polini or athena.
If you want reliable power always go with Malossi.
Yes Airsal 70 kit is good value for the money, reliable for street with 2 ring piston.
Do you know how to fix my Speedometer Reading the wrong speed
Is the speedo reading a higher speed than true speed (GPS)?
@@scooterstreetau yes
@@alialkabi7375 Not much you can do, the speed is taken from the small gear that run from the front wheel, it is set from factory. maybe a different size tyre will change the speed reading. Manufacturers will usually allow a 10% accuracy with the speedo with an optimistic value. So 50 will read 55.
i have a problem with my piaggio motor. it wont charge the battery i have changed the volt regulator and it still wont charge i have also put a new stator and it still wont charge and also it wont start with the electric start when the new stator is on but when i change back to the old stator it starts right up with the electric start.
Firstly, charge the battery for 2 hours and then do a load test to see if the battery is fine. If no-replace the battery. If ok continue.
Secondly, Connect the battery to the scooter and connect a volt meter to the battery terminals. Expect no less than 12.2 volts. Now start the scooter engine and watch the volt meter.
A/ Does it drop. If it Drops, then not charging.
B/ Does it increase. If it increases it should read up to 13.6-14.6 volts but not above this.
C/ Does it stay at original battery reading? Does it stay the same, Not charging.
-------------------------- So which one is it? To be continued.------------------
@@scooterstreetau it drops down below 12v i have changed the stator and the volt regulator and it still wont charge. i think that i got a defekt stator because when i installed the new stator it would not start with the electric start and would only start with kick start. when i put the old one back it started right up and the voltage still dropped down with the new stator
@@alialkabi7375 Ok, it sounds like your on to it..
@@scooterstreetau i got the new stator and it now charges the battery but now it wont start on electric start and only starts with kick start. can you please help me?
Hey guys, what was the total build $ for this guy?
2.5-3K
Tengo una moto igual que le puede acer para que corra mas
Sí, hay muchas opciones para el SR50.
PLEASE, PUT A BIGGER CARB AND REPLACE THE AIRBOX WITH A CONE FILTER, THIS IS A GREAT CILINDER BUT IT'S WASTED WITH THAT ALIMENTATION. p.s. I work with malossi
We have replied to this same comment multiple times. If you read the description we mentioned that this was only the first stage of the build. As a shop we work to our customers instructions, who wanted to build the scooter in stages to break up the cost. We will do an update video of this bike shortly, it has since had a fair bit more work done including 21mm carb with pod filter, inner rotor ignition, full over range transmission among a number of other significant upgrades to the chassis.