I thought your video was fantastic! I heard about this before, I just never saw it done. I can't believe how cold your temperature readings were, that was great!
Just about everything in this video entertained me. Vice grips to tighten the lines and the gauge set was hysterical. Hopefully someone from the epa didn’t see you purge the enviro-friendly r134 to the atmosphere. Anyway when I was young I did silly things also so don’t feel bad, it’s how we learn.
Just an FYI... You should not need to use vice grips on the knurled hose end couplings. They work finger tight only. If you over torque those? They will eventually fail because you would have crushed the O-ring seals in them.
Not only were the knurled hose ends tightened beyond finger tight, but the dust caps over the car's schrader valves were beyond finger tight! Man needed his vice grip to remove them!
ENVIRO-SAFE is an "ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE" organic, non-toxic, non-ozone depleting hydrocarbon compound. ENVIRO-SAFE is a hydrocarbon refrigerant and has been endorsed by GreenPeace. It is in full compliance with the UN Montreal Protocol. Like most organic materials ENVIRO-SAFE is flammable, but its ignition temperature is 1585ºF at both 5 psi and 0 psi (which is better than the DuPont R-134a's ignition temperature of 368ºF at 5 psi and 1411ºF at 0 psi)
NTGEFASTLANE I use your method for years and years already, on a commercial truck, works amazingly, I cause no grief to environment, even, if in case of accidental system leak out, and I saved hundreds and hundreds. I give you 5 STARS you so deserve it, I recognize your workmanship, and superkind heart posting your amazing video, it's nothing short of a grace, from you, to community. Blessings to you!
While cans of electronics duster typically do contain a refrigerant called 1,1 difluoroethane (difluoro-ethane) or 1.2 difluoroethane (there is a difference), it may not be the only ingredient. It may contain other ingredients - which you may not want in your A-C system. Plain HFC 134a at Walmart (without the gauge) is $4.88 for 12 ounces. Plus it comes with a schrader valve type of automatically sealing valve, and the can tap needed is about $8 at O'Reilly auto parts.
Wow, here you are doing something helpful for your fellow men and not from all but some, actually more than needed are on you about your tools, harming the O-zone, ect..., We all should care for our environment yes, how ever I thank you for doing something helpful for others that may not know what you know.
*@**16:45* Observe your temperature knob on HVAC control- it is not *fully on COLD*. Always have the hose *connected* to the can tap *BEFORE* tapping the can. Did you also replace the Accumulator Dryer before this charging?
A lot of things were done wrong here. Many have pointed out the use of vice grips on the lines, but that's not the worst of it. 1) Never feed liquid refrigerant into the suction line. The compressor cannot compress a liquid. What happens is you blow out the valves in the compressor. This is the first thing you'll learn if you train for HVAC. 2) The vent temperature should never be below 32 degrees. If it is, that means that the evaporator is freezing over. You may think it's cool blowing that cold, but keep driving like this and it will suddenly blow warm and continue to do so until you replace the compressor.
liquid not compressible but that is not engine where at TDC or power stroke the valves are closed and can’t be open with pressure so if there is water(liquid) the piston rod will bend no ! this is a compressor with reed valves if liquid enter once the pistons move up the pressure will make the discharge valve to open that’s why even when alot of people charge as liquid compressor doesnt actually get damaged I mean it could bend the valves but unlikely
It wasn't R-134a, it was Enviro safe "organic, non-toxic, non-ozone depleting hydrocarbon compound" I mentioned it in the video while releasing it into the water bottle. As for the oil,your correct, I should have mention measuring it and adding what was needed but in my case I had to much in there from alot of product testing.
To all you ignoramus' saying what this guy did venting his refrigerant to the atmosphere was illegal. He said he had Envirosafe refrigerant in the system which is about 60% propane and 40% isobutane. You can buy propane and butane at the store and vent it all you like and no one can do shit about it because it has zero ozone depletion. You could buy a 14.1oz bottle of propane and 2.75oz of Ronson Ultra butane and blow that in any system and you will get extremely cold temperatures if done properly. Europe, Japan, and many Asian countries use Propane/Isobutane for refrigerant with no issues. As for flammability i would be more worried about 18 gallons of gasoline around a hot engine at 40psi through 20+ year old rubber hoses than i would be with less than one pound of propane in an A/C system. Just my 2 cents, I think r134a and all the other crap is all about extracting money from wallets.
Thank GOD. Finally - a voice of reason and logic. Thank you. I've been talking about this shit for years. It's amazing the amount of ignorance and fear mongering out there. It is SO HARD to try to explain anything to these types of sheeple. Carry on.
I've done a lot of r152 conversion, but not like this. I have a large clear vacuum box that has can piercers inside it. I load up 12 cans in the box then vacuum it down. Once at an acceptable micron level I valve off the vacuum and pierce the cans. I let the box fill up with all the r152, then I recover it to a 30 pound tank. I have 2-3 full tanks for conversions.
1,1-Difluoroethane, or DFE, is an organofluorine compound with the chemical formula C2H4F2. This colorless gas is used as a refrigerant, where it is often listed as R-152a (refrigerant-152a) or HFC-152a (hydrofluorocarbon-152a). It is also used as a propellant for aerosol sprays and in gas duster products. As an alternative to chlorofluorocarbons, it has an ozone depletion potential of zero, a lower global warming potential (124) and a shorter atmospheric lifetime (1.4 years).[2][3] It has recently been approved for use in automobile applications as an alternative to R-134a
I liked your video because it informs people of a unique technique , i was CPA certified about 18 yes ago and i like learning new methods. I really don't know if your technique is legal at the time of my viewing but i really don't care anyway. you have given me knowledge that an alternate form of coolant is available and how to acquire and dispense it. to all the complainers and trolls relax it's a youtube video. I'd like an update on the temps lets say every 5 min on a 2 hr long road trip.
Difluoroethane has an ODP of 0 and a GWP of 120. Though not extremely flammable in gaseous form, 1,1-difluoroethane can burn under some conditions. As such, there is also a warning label present on some gas dusters. When inverted to spray liquid, the boiling fluorocarbon aerosol is easily ignitable, producing a very large blast of flame and extremely toxic gases such as hydrogen fluoride and carbonyl fluoride as combustion products.
Now read the MSDS for a similar HFC refrigerant called R134a... "In the event of fire wear self-contained breathing apparatus." All of our favorite refrigerants burn fairly enthusiastically under the right conditions. R12, R134, R152, R290, & R600a. When CFC R12 & R22 burn you get an extremely neurotoxic gas called Phosgene. R152 & R134a are HFC refrigerants. The byproducts of rapid oxidation, fire, will be fairly close to the same and they are VERY TOXIC too. R290 is dry clean propane... R600a is Isobutane. They burn with the same enthusiasm as the CFC & HFC refrigerants and are easier to light but they burn without the toxicity of the fluorocarbon refrigerants. I am not going to extol the virtues of any one refrigerant. Nor am I going to tell you what I run in my vehicle. They are all a tradeoff of Flammability, Raw Toxicity, Ozone depletion, and toxicity when burned. More of one gets you less of some others. There is no Holy Grail. Pick your poison... Literally.
The root cause of the explosion was excessive head pressure from a failed thermostatic expansion valve. When I'm repairing older AC systems to use any refrigerant I require that a HPCO switch (High Pressure Cut Out) on the compressor head or high pressure output line is installed. It's a safety issue. I do not do this for a living but I will not do an AC retrofit or repair without one. ALL Hydrocarbon & Fluorocarbon refrigerants presently in use will burn explosively when heated by extreme over-pressure. The latest "EPA approved" FC refrigerant HFO R1234yf ( Tetrafluoropropene CH2=CFCF3 ) releases Hydrogen Flouride when it burns. Hydrogen Flouride is not a big deal... It just melts your lungs instead of permanently damaging your neural pathways the way Phosgene does. A lung transplant and you're good to go right? The refrigerant game is just that. A game. Regulatory agencies and legislators do and will continue to work for large moneyed interests to protect the moneyed interests profit bases and thereby their illicit cash stream. The various Fluorocarbon refrigerants, one of which I commonly use, oxidize into into some very nasty byproducts and they can and will explode given the proper malfunctions. Even though I do not use Hydrocarbons I am not a cheerleader for the increasingly dangerous "modern" Fluorocarbon refrigerants. BTW that tank full of liquid Hydrocarbon that fuels the engine is fairly dangerous too. I knew a very nice young lady that was pinned in her Dodge Dakota and immolated by burning fuel fed from a malfunctioning fuel pump cutoff after an accident. Life is not safe. Driving cars and trucks is definitely not safe. If your number is up Thanatos will collect your soul and deliver you to Kharon the ferryman.
Interestingly, all the negative feedback is incorrect. R152A (1,1 Diflouroethane) is indeed approved as an alternative to R134a, as it has lower greenhouse gas potential. There is positively no reason to not employ "Air Duster" gas in a R134a application. (Now, you really need to get handles for your manifold and stop with the vice grips. Those valve seats are soft elastomers.)
For what is worth. I put this stuff in a 92 honda civic hb, with about 230K miles and about 3.5 months later the evap got a leak, big pipe to evap got leak, and 2 black rubber 0-rings leaked. I think perhaps this uses higher pressure. Also, I didnt notice it being any colder than r134a. I am going to try r12a next.
No one I've seen mentions or yet notices that his Heat/Cool dial is not turned all the way to the coldest. It was blending some with the warm. It would make a significant difference, so it could've been Colder blow temperature.
You should not charge with liquid on the "low side". Only charge with liquid when the car is NOT running and put it into the "high side". Finish charging on the "low side" with vapor, with the engine running. Check your temp at the center vent with the blower on "LOW". You get the coldest air on "low", "high" is for volume.
how much oil is lost when venting the enviro-safe refrigerant like dust off for example? does one need to add any oil after that and how much approximately?
Ivan Konstantinov You shouldn't vent it, it's still considered a refrigerant (R152a) and EPA bans venting of ANY refrigerant. it's one thing to use dust-off for its intended purpose (using it for anything other than its intended purpose is illegal as well, but we won't get into that). But to answer your question, it all depends on how the gas is removed. If it's removed as a liquid, it's going to take the oil with it. you will lose minute amounts removing gas as well. The only way to know for sure how much oil is in your system is to remove the oil, and refill to your vehicle specs, usually on the label under your hood.
Tyler Helgerson In that case, spraying Dust Off on anything other than a computer is illegal. So forget about the technicalities for a second, how is the result of releasing it from an AC system rather than its can, any different whatsoever? It's "intended purpose" is to be released into the environment. The law you are referring to definitely wasn't written with Dust Off (as a refrigerant) in mind. If you're so worried about people venting r152 from their AC system, then you should also start a campaign against the Dust Off product itself, when used for its intended purpose.
+Tyler Helgerson Epa doesn't regulate or ban Eviro-safe or Dustoff. Enviro-Safe Refrigerant does not fall under or within the guidelines set forth by Congress concerning global warming or ozone depletion because it is an environmentally safe, non-global warming and non-ozone depleting product. Therefore, Enviro-Safe Refrigerant does not require "approval" to be used or sold as a HFC 134a substitute.
+pearlmax dude I've got to get you to the court and sue you, with an option you get off only when show what law prohibits us to use dust off dusting my shelf, files, power strip outlets, Internet modems and routers, PC fans, motherboard, etc. Did you know there is an answer to be held for scam activity? I don't think you are getting off that easy for the abominable activities you are doing
Tried that on a E36 bmw, 1997, didn't work; system makes noise,not sure if the compressor was already bad,or if it went bad with this gas; or if the oil that was in the system is not compatible,maybe ?
Just a heads up, you may want to edit and add the fact that R152a (Duster, Dust-off) Is Infact FLAMMABLE... so make sure that you have no leaks at all in your system especially at the evaporator(little radiator in the car) and more so if you happen to be a smoker..R-152a does not smell so if the Evap leaks and the car is now full of that R152a and you happen to light a cig.... Car Go BOOM.. Lesson learned, keep an on on your levels, and quit smoking....
I gotta try this.... I tried 134a in my 87 C4 Corvette and it's not cooling down the air inside the cabin...and it mostly blows on the floor, very little comes out the vents😒😟☹🙁
If possible / practical for your model car- check your vent system at the evaporator. It is likely to be very dirty and clogged. I don't know what year auto MFR"S started to install cabin filters but I know filters can become so dirty they can prevent proper cooling. You may also have a problem with vent "doors" not opening / closing correctly.
Nthefastlane, Interesting Video !!! I have 3 coments 1) All of the professional HVAC guys that make videos say NEVER tighten your HVAC gauge hoses more than hand tight. 2) if you hook your hose to the puncture tool before puncturing the can it will be easier on the fingers. 3) the infrared thermometers cant read the air temperature, they can only the temperature of solid objects like the fins on the vents which are warmer then the actual air temperature. I used my Infrared thermometer on the vent slats and my AC thermometer inserted into the center of the vent and it read about 15 degrees colder then the Infrared. Otherwise it was a good video.
Releasing any refrigerant into the atmosphere IS illegal, r-134a or not. EPA "Complying With The Section 608 Refrigerant Recycling Rule" page is a good reference to that.
You just may be the coolest guy on youtube....literally! :0) Thanks for enriching my knowledge...people can joke your lock pliers, but your still cool!
Just wondering - did you have any issues with icing since you were below freezing at the evaporator? I know this is common in commercial walk-in freezers but haven't seen it done in a car before now.
TheWizechatmgr When you pull vacuum, the ice sublimes off into a vapor and is evacuated from the system, once you get down to around 29.8 inches Hg. This is why pulling a good vacuum is so important.
@@ModMINI Dumb ass, he is talking about the evaporator coil building ice on the outside while the unit is running, not ice on the inside of the lines! And 29.8inches Hg is still not enough of a vacuum pulled! In HVAC, you read vacuum in MICRONS, which is far deeper than 29.8"Hg!
I didn't want the clamp to slip, the hose put a little tension on the wrist. It could have been done that way also. If you don't use the whole can you have to take it off anyway :)
Not a bad video - However there are a few updates here that you should know 1 - Once the can is pierced with the tool it will leak out slowly over time. I know this because after a partial charge I did to a vehicle the can did still leak out through the gasket on the tool. 2 - You must have the yellow hose connected to the adapter BEFORE you pierce the can - that way you won't risk in frost bite. 3 - Do not remove the yellow hose from the adapter when changing cans. Keep the apparatus closed and in tacked . 4 - I do agree of the purging of the yellow hose to the gauge set - so you don't get air into the system. Other than that You'll be cool and ready to enjoy the summer...
I recommend everyone buy the approved R134a, which can be had at $5.00 a 12 ounce can at walmart or on line. Of course if you need to recover your refrigerant, go to a shop and have them do that. They will do it for free.
I'm putting in a new compressor, expansion valve & drier in my 97 Golf. How would I get the new oil into the compressor during this procedure? Great video! thanks,,,
And I will also add that the gauge on the low side reading 30 psi at idle - you can go a bit lower of 25 to 28 and you'll have colder temps... it takes a bit of practice and fine tuning but you add the refrigerant slowly but adding more will overcharge the system and you'll defeat the purpose and have warmer air coming from your vents.
Great videos - hleped alot... Currently - 99 ford explorer - compressor off.... Jumped the high and low sensors - compressor kicked on - no cold air - though. Your thoughts on that?
Why do you keep removing the supply line between bottles? Just pop the clip open and change to the new bottle. Much quicker and you don't have to freeze your un-gloved fingers!
Cheers to Nthefastlane!! I like people that think. As a chemist, I can guarantee it works, but it is a little...well volatile, as are many of the substitute gases. Take care, ignore the haters.
must be one of them college edumacated chemists... it's far less VOLATILE than everything else it is a good substitute for... INCLUDING 134a... I'm guessing you work for the CDC... eh? eh?
@@josepeixoto3384 Not sure the age of this car. IF it is a R-12 system and if the system has never been flushed and had the oil changed, it should still have mineral oil installed. Enviro-Safe product is ALSO a special gas and CAN be installed with Mineral, Ester or Pag oil. Mineral oil should not be used with 134a. That is why IMO Ester oil is a good choice after a system is flushed as it is compatible with R-12 and 134a.
Thanks for the Video, it gave me the courage to fix an AC system myself. A Pack-Rat bit through my High Side hose releasing the coolant. I guess there was condensation on it or something and he was thirsty. The harbor freight vacuum pump was a good idea, I think it was around $20, worked great was able to almost pull -25 on the low side and well below zero on the high side. Also a manifold down there was about $60.Two 12oz Cans of Arctic Zone R138A - $16.00, Found Dye for $8, and a necessary Brass CAN Tap for about $6 at O'Rilleys. I didn't use the Dustoff because I wasn't sure it was compatible with my current setup, so I had to go with the R-134A. The only refrigerant that was released was the stuff the pack-rat released. Heard a hissing sound when he bit through the line, I thought I was overheating and it took me a while to find the leak. Hissed for about 2 minutes. Probably froze his face off. He also bit through my radiator overflow valve. Stinking rat Cost me a day of work and at least 300 in parts and tools, not to mention the mess he made inside my machine. Piss and Turds everywhere.
A "-25" isn't a good vaccuum! A good vacuum can't even be read on a standard refrigeration gauge because IT IS IN MICRONS, and is deeper than a refrigeration gauge can measure!
It is against E.P.A. regulations to release any refrigerant into the atmosphere. 134a is a hydroflurocarbon and should not be released into the atmosphere. It isn't as harmful as some of the refrigerants but E.P.A. says no to releasing into the atmosphere. Check epa regulations and you will see that I am correct.
To Daniel B. The E.P.A. and I say again says no to releasing any refrigerant into the atmosphere, in some countries butane/propane is used as a refrigerant there by falling under the guidelines of the E.P.A. We all live in this world together, it doesn't matter where you abide, we all have to work together to protect our atmosphere. I don't know about you but I appreciate a good deep breath of fresh air every once in awhile. Oh, and by the way refrigerant is the word, not Freon, because Freon is a brand name released by DuPont Years ago.
Danny Calk so if its a diffrent product but a diffrent lable it all of a sudden becomes a refrigerant? what if he released air duster that was in the system is that still refrigerant ? just wanna know ...thanks
Makes my butt pucker every time I watch you "vice grip" the fittings on your gauges. They have soft rubber washers so they can be hand sealed. Go buy a new washer kit and do them by hand. Also, put your hose on the green clamp first so you don't freeze your fingers then purge. Otherwise good video.
There are a lot of cringe worthy parts that shows he doesn't really understand the physics. Like the can shaking before hookup to keep it "from freezing"? And r134 should be recaptured properly and not vented. This video could be massively improved with a little bit of instruction and comparison to the original 134. Part of that instruction could include why it kept bubbling for a while after he vented the 134. The venting process caused all the plumbing to get cold. In the end as the tubing and other coils heat up they cause the residual 134 to heat up which causes it to expand. Thus it continues to bubble. Also why repurge when you could just leave it hooked up to the special side tap? Something he also didn't consider is that some gasses carry the oil through the system better than others. Duster gas isn't used for a reason. Might want to find out what that reason is.
@@bryanfullerton1566 You can get away with one but not both of the PAG oils. PAE has better misicibility across the various flavors but you need to pay attention to what you're putting in the system and how much. Google R152A Refrigerant oil. You'll find a link to a Refsols PDF that contains a Miscibility chart for refrigerants and refrigerant oils. The Folks using Envirosafe should be aware that the PAG oil in the system may not work as well with Hydrocarbon (R290 R600 etc) blends as the mineral oils that were used in R12 systems. AC isn't just dump charge it up and go. You can get into trouble with the gubmint and you can damage the systems if you don't take the time to learn to properly service the system. It's not impossible for a DIY guy to learn how to safely and properly service an AC system but you need to study a bit before jumping in the deep end of the pool.
It's actually illegal to vent any refrigerant into the atmosphere as defined by Section 608 of the Clean Air Act. It has less ozone depletion than R12 but it is still bad for the environment. There's a reason it's required by law for shops to recycle it. Other than that I have enjoyed your videos, man!
hi there thnx for the video but try this: Johnsen's 6312-12pack r134a; its lowest was $44 on amazon(47 now at time of post); 47/12+tax=$4.23 per 12oz can. Cheapest possible r134a cans i have found so far + american made + no additive. just becuase Difluoroethane is stated on the can, it does not necessarily is a refrigerant. the r134a is 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane
***** "1,1-Difluoroethane, also DFE is an organofluorine compound with the chemical formula C2H4F2. This colorless gas is used as a refrigerant, where it is often listed as R-152a or HFC-152a. As an alternative to chlorofluorocarbons, it has an ozone depletion potential of zero, a lower global warming potential (120) and a shorter atmospheric lifetime (1.4 years).[2] It has recently been approved for use in automobile applications as an alternative to R-134a."
Yes,I mean don't go huffing the stuff but if you think about it, they do tell you to spray it on your keyboards and computer items in your house.So I don't think it will harm you. Yes, Enviro Safe can be used as a replacement for 134a and r12..just add it right in the mix with out releasing the 134a or r12.I threw this stuff in my other car that was l low with 134a and mixed it together @ 50psi and it get freezing and the compressor never kicks off while driving or sitting.
I liked the video and will try it although I did just buy 8 cans of R134 at Big Lots for $6.50 a can. It's $14 a can at AutoZone. My question is does drawing the vacuum remove the oil? Also on my S-10 the temp control knob also runs air through the heater core when its not fully set on cold. I noticed from the video that yours was about a quarter way from full cold towards the heat side. I wish I had seen your video a week ago.
if u draw a vac... yes, u do get pag oil (not all in the system though... think of the oil in your cooling system like a two cycle dirt bike.... kinda it mixes with the freon when being compressed but settles when not and separates quickly
Use the bitterant to find leaks =P Here's some good reading.... NFPA RATINGS (SCALE 0-4): HEALTH=0 FIRE=4 REACTIVITY=0 FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARDS: Severe fire hazard. Severe explosion hazard. The gas is heavier than air. Vapors or gases may ignite at distant ignition sources and flash back.Electrostatic discharges may be generated by flow or agitation resulting in ignition or explosion. Containers may rupture or explode if exposed to heat
I owned an automotive air conditioning & radiator shop from 1973 to about 2003. Then I sold it to an employee and it is still open today (about 50 years later). In my 30 plus years of servicing vehicle air conditioners I did not use vice grip pliers to connect the service fittings. It is OK to try things. It is against the law to vent refrigerants. It is against the law to mix refrigerants. It is against the law to put a different refrigerant in a system with out labeling it as such. When some one hooks up to a vehicle with R134a service fittings, they expect it has R134a in it. You would not want some one later to contaminate their A/C equipment by hooking up to a car with R134a fittings but having R152a in it. Some shops use charging stations, I did not like them. I had a refrigerant identifier and used it before refrigerant recovery. I always used gauge sets to check out and service cars. I always used new refrigerant to top off working systems and after repairs. These comments are for viewers.
ENVIRO-SAFE is a zero ozone depleting "second generation" replacement for R-134a and all other substitutes for Freon that are non-ozone depleting. Unlike R134a, it is also non-global-warming . EPA's Final Rule, issued April 1, 1994, states:"In this final rule, the Agency has determined that second generation replacements, if they are non-ozone depleting and are replacing non-ozone depleting first generation alternatives, are exempt from reporting requirements under Section 612"
-How long have you had this product in your a/c system? And is there, over a period of time, a possibility that it could break down and damage the compressor? Thanks for the video Marvin
Hillarous!! The best " How not to" vid I have seen in ages. First thing in this Video I'm going to show you is how to commit an Illegal act the free world over by venting refrigerant to atmosphere! Hahahahah! I was waiting for you to demonstrate how to tip sump oil down the storm water drain next or burn old tyres in your backyard! I loved the comic genius in not only having spray come out of the first bottle you tapped and giving yourself a freeze burn, you did it the second time as well! Normally you see a gag once and that's it but this was even funnier when you repeated it. Classic! The pliers on the hose connections was funny but not as good as the $20 gauge set with no knobs and you putting pliers on there. Comedy genius. But the finishing touch with the lawnmower racket in the background of the sign off at the end was inspired. Just that little extra humour outside of the main subject comedy. I'll bet Mr.Bean could not have done any of those gags and got any more laughs.
Good job man! These vids are hard work, consume valuable time, and the tuber did all of it for FREE. Now, people who are "interested" at least have an alternative. Should everyone do it? Who knows, but anyone can easily do their own research, which is also free, and decide if it is the right approach for them, or not. As far as flammability goes, cars are already full of gasoline for god's sake and there are dangerous people everywhere texting vs looking at the road; so, using dust-off will be near the bottom of the high risk category. Lastly, this obviously isn't a high volume shop, which released some "Enviro-Safe" from single car, and rude, hypersensitive viewers jump on this one guy? What a waste of time. If you want to be cool, A. Offer some "respectful" advice combined with some sign of appreciation.B. Call Eviro-Safe and explain they should rebrand their product "Enviro-Not-Safe" so consumers aren't misled. -Thanks for the vid and sharing your knowledge.
lol.. "vise grips" ..other than this kid needing a few crescent wrenches for Christmas, this is some nice out of the box thinking to find a cheaper way to get the job done. I remember my Dad laughing at the country used car dealer who put straight propane in the dash air systems of his used cars back in the 80s, but after a bit of engineering education and working in the industry.. turns out the guy was right. Way to go kid! GET A CRESCENT WRENCH.
Legally Sam's cannot sell this size canister of Freon to anyone who is not EPA certified. The only size available to the general user are the single use cans.
CFM ≠ Vacuum. That's the air requirement for the compressor to operate the pump. A perfect vacuum would be 30"Hg. That pump is probably capable of pulling 27 or 28"Hg, which is sufficient.
I cringed at that and figured he had no idea what CFM stood for. The other vac pump from harbor freight doesn't need a air compressor and is much better.
Curious when you have a system designed for R134A Why do you want to change it to another refrigerant? Yes R152a is colder, but it is highly flammable. You run a risk should a leak develop you have a fire under your hood.
Love some of the comments on here. I guess nobody realizes that the new vehicles have R-1234YF and that stuff is extremely flameable. R152a literally takes ~1/2 the charge of R134a. It also vastly outperforms R134a especially over 90°F. Not talking a couple of degrees either, talking 8-10°F colder vent temps. As for 250+ head pressure, LOL. Come to Texas and look at the pressure a R134a system runs at when charged per factory specification. Before the vehicles interior cools off the system will cycle multiple times on the 400-430 psi high pressure cut-off. In 105°F and 30-40% humidity the high side will run 325-350 psi and that is with a properly functioning fan. At prolonged idle, R134a might stay 55-60°F at idle if you are lucky in those conditions, while some get closer to 70°F. Pag oil is compatible with R152a. I have run it in multiple vehicles for over 200K and have yet to see a compressor related failure from the R152a. I did have a clutch coil go open on my 230K mile G35 which is fairly common on Nissan products anyway even running R134a. When I pulled that system down, it was clean, oil was well distributed, the old compressor had several ounces of oil in it, so the Pag works with R152a.
r1234yf: It's not very flammable. Just a little bit. With these tiny amounts, there is more danger coming from your gasoline tank.(in case of accident).
agreed Kujawat. now this is a DIYer that should definitely have a disclaimer. Then again i have been warned not to "critisise" others by findvoltage. haha
I thing that almost any gas that will compress into a liquid will get cold going from a liquid to a gas so technically this would work but not sure how long it would last
I have been using it for 3 years in my 93 300ZX convertible and 2.5 years in my brother in laws 99 BMW 740i. It works very well. Actually better than 134a due to the lower head pressures.
Great video and I'd love to try this on my old Honda. It seems that the "Dust Off" and other brands of spray that I have found now contain a bitterant to help discourage inhalant abuse. Does this added chemical pose any problems for using this in your AC System?? I see this video was posted in 2013, so not sure if the BITTERANT was in the original product back then or not... Does anyone know where you can purchase this product WITHOUT the BITTERANT added? Thanks!
optionstraderman Evidently the Bitterant is not a big concern.. Today, June 24, 2015, I found 3 pack cans of "Dust Off" on Walmart's site for $8.38. If you print out their web page showing the prices and take it to the store, they will price match in the store for the 3 pack which I believe is priced at around $11.50 in the store. www.walmart.com/ip/Dust-Off-Electronics-Duster/25596750
poor guy makes a awesome video on to save you hundreads and everybody wants to give him shit. i appriciate the video bro keep making them. i have to do this on my 240 this month
Juan Vargas save money? how about telling and encouraging people to violate the law. R134a is not legally permitted to be released into the atmosphere. how about you learn about federal mobile refrigeration laws...
ViciousTech Well sir, if you would of read the description of the video you would understand your comment is uneccesary and owe me an apology. I am a BMW level 3 technican, certified diesel technican, and a ASE certified Master technican. I also have my 608 and my 609. Who are you again? Have a nice day
ViciousTech . . ... so can u tell me ....when u have a leak where this r134 goes. i assume to the atmosphere. but maybe im wrong. hahaha stupid people talking about laws and this guy pay extra money to pass smog regulations. hahahaha
Juan, 3-12 Oz cans of dust off costs around $20. 3-12 Oz cans of R134a on amazon or ebay cost about $20. I'm sorry, but I'm not seeing the savings. Maybe a few bucks at the most. I'm no expert on what Difluoroethane might do to my air conditioning system, and therefore quite reluctant to remove the 134a and put in dust off. When the manufacturer of my vehicle says it's ok to replace the R134a with R152a then I may do it. I'm certainly not going to do it because some vice grip wielding kid on RUclips says it's a good idea. Fwiw, it is totally illegal to vent your R134a, or R12 to the atmosphere. You're supposed to get it recovered from your system. When he vented the system, was he venting a previous charge of Difluoroethane, or 134a? When he and his friends replace 134a in a system with dust off does he / they properly capture the old refrigerant? I bet not, and thus can cram any claims about caring for the environment where the sun doesn't shine. It's hypocrisy. The average car leaks less than 1oz per year through the compressor seal. He's dumping 20-30 times that much when he dumps one of these systems.
Good job overall, with a few suggestions. It's not pronounced di-flor'-o-thane. It's pronounced di-flor-o-eth'-ane. Also, try not to add refrigerant in straight liquid form - alternate gas and liquid by tilting the can back and forth. Takes a little longer, but you won't slug the compressor. Good job posting the safety corrections.
Cotronixco I was also concerned with him pushing liquid direct to the low pressure side. You can do damage to your compressor by sucking liquid from the low pressure side (liquid is not compressible... think of what water locking your engine does). I've also read that you want to make sure that you are using Ester oil with R152a. This is still good information, people just need to be careful with how they implement it.
You will notice that he filled the thing with the engine off to an unspecified amount (10 oz). Then he started the engine. After that he added only a little bit at a time. Adding it like that, it is then not necessary to rotate back and forth. He just cracked the knob then waited till it settled and did it again till it was full. This is a more practical and sensible way to fill it rather than dump in so many oz because that is what the label says. (And there are only a few compressors that actually are bothered by the possibility - I don't know if the newer compressors are like that.) You will just find out that another fill will be needed or that it is over full. The manufacturers are just trying to provide for their automatic filling machines so that the cheapest level of mechanic can fill the thing using the inaccurate machines. And it's di-flewro -eth'-ane. The 'u' is not silent. but everyone knew what he was talking about. It was written on the can!
Is that the same stuff they sold for to replace R12 it was propane or something flammable Freeze 12. I tired it a few times on old R12 systems didn't work. If you system is working well R134A will work. Some of the older 90's cars had poorly designed 134A systems.
Freeze 12 works (worked) fine... The hassles were no shops will touch it... and it's hard to find at a decent price now. I used it 3x in old R12 cars and they both cooled great. Don't use it anymore because of the above hassles. Your chance of getting burned by something like that in your ac system is squat compared to a leaking gas line on your engine.
Dan Limbaugh I tried it but could not get the pressures right ended up just doing a full conversion to 134A replaced everything except the evap. On my toyota pickup I just go on eBay and get R12 not that expensive only holds a few lbs nothing is better then old fashion R12.
I didn't have gauges back then... I just read how many oz's of freeze 12 were supposed to be equal to xx oz's of r12... vacuum'd the system with a pump from AutoZone and then shot in that specific amount of Freeze 12... plus a little can of freeze12 lubricant that came with it. Oh!!!! I for got to add this part!!! I got very lucky. right after I'd ordered the Freeze12 from eBay... I was at my local NAPA store... and they had a little worn out box that had a few fittings in it and 3 little 10 or so inch long hoses... it said "Freeze12 manifold Kit" handwritten on the box! I bought it for $25 or something... and that was I was able to vacuum down the system... because the Freeze12 cans' and adaptor they give you have bizarre reverse threads on them. And the high and low pressure threads are different too I think. Normal vacuum lines for R12 or R134 won't work, so once you put the reverse thread fittings on... how do you vacuum it properly?
Dan Limbaugh I think I made some sort of adaptor from copper fittings I got from Home Depot but I was able to vacuum it. It got cold but it would not at low speed or stop lights. That truck was a 1980 c-20 3x3 cab the A6 GM compressor was on it's last legs. Instead of wasting the money on another one I got an aftermarket 134a from a local guy who sells all the parts he even makes you custom hoses you just drive down there he measures it all out about $50 for everything. The condenser he sold me was a cross flow I mounted it with some brackets I made. When I was done the system worked well better then stock 134A on my friends 94 pickup. Back in those years 134A was new and cars coming from the factory had poor designs the condenser wasn't' big enough. I'm in Phoenix so AC gets hit hard here. That pickup I had the front end was really big so I was able to fit the largest 134A condenser he had. I usually charge to high side pressure to temp chart when I get close I wait until my vent gauge gets to 20F it's good. I check to make sure it doesn't cycle too fast when idling. With a fixed tube they are suppose to cycle. If you ever need any help post on their forum www.ackits.com they are in phoenix all they do is auto ac nothing else they are experts.
Hey I did the same thing in this video in my 2004 blazer works WAY better than the last ac shop that charged me $150.00 a hell of a lot colder to. And for the record that was a year and a half ago still will freeze you out of the truck! Oh yeah by the way GARY the main reason by refrigerants were changed twice was all about money everything can hurt the environment. Follow the money on refrigerants and then you will see what politicians made a shitload of money from it for god sake they are wanting to change the feed for cattle so they dont fart so much because they are damaging the environment to you jumping on that bandwagon to? If so stop eating beans or I will turn you in for illegal farting dam get a education. Great video lose the vice-scripts at worst case use a crescent wrench and knobs are cheap to get just busting your chops.
You shouldn't vent it, it's still considered a refrigerant (R152a) and EPA bans venting of ANY refrigerant. it's one thing to use dust-off for its intended purpose (using it for anything other than its intended purpose is illegal as well, but we won't get into that). If you feel you absolutely MUST do this conversion, do it the right way. Take it to a shop and have the 134a recovered. It's cheap. Hell, if you live near me i'll do it for free. Then buy Actual 152a refrigerant, and use that. Bear is mind though, SAE has already done extensive studies on 134a vs.152a. 152a will show better performance ONLY if the expansion valve is adjusted. At the same cooling capacity, air Discharge temp of 152a and 134a are almost identical.
I've never seen a temperature /pressure chart for canned air. How do you know what the evaporator or condenser temp is? Asking for trouble with this stuff.
Correction: It is only illegal to release r-134a if it is coming out of an air conditioner. It's important to note that considering that r-134a (not just r-152a) is used in several brands of duster (3M, for example). I guess what I'm trying to say is that just because it's illegal doesn't mean it will actually amount to anything. :) There are also some refrigerants that are legal to vent off, mostly HC based, such as butane/propane blends. Of course, those aren't legal for cars in the US.
If have R12 stick with R12. If changing it you must recover R12, but often have to change other components as well or you will not be happy with the cooling. I prefer dealing with the more inert R134a.
Have the system properly recovered and vacuumed down. If you went from zero charge to 134a without doing a vacuum, then there is most likely air in the system. Also, water in the system will boil off, that's why a leak-free system that was opened up tend to lose vacuum and the process is often repeated 2-3 times before a recharge.
R134a is the result of our government getting involved in something they didn't understand. R12 was much colder ran at a lower pressure therefore did not cause as many leaks. R12a is a much better replacement for r12 r134a caused a lot of compressors to go bad prematurely from running too much head pressure the systems were not designed to handle it. but our government was like all but just over pressure in the system it'll be okayas long as it cost the consumer more money and puts money in our pocket. As far as r152a or duster in this case it runs at a much lower pressure and there's more efficient then even r12. Of course our government is coming out with more new stuff now like r1234a instead of fixing the real problemstopping China from dumping cheap refrigerators and air conditioning units on our market with steel lines the rust out in corrode at the dissimilar metal connections causing leaks. Also they make these units so cheap and service guys don't like to work on them so people throw them away and by new then we have a whole bunch of old non-working unit out there leaking refrigerant into the atmosphere there's the real problem. Take a look at your refrigerator you will notice copper braised onto a steel line any point where dissimilar metals meet is a point of corrosion and future leak. Just dorm size refrigerators around the United States alone leak more into the atmosphere in one day then all the cars do in a yr now add cheap Chinese window mount air conditioning units to that and the number goes up to the point that it would take all the automobiles 10 years is Rick as much as these two items to in one day.but no politician really cares about the atmosphere in the ozone layer and your well-being they really care about the old mighty Dollar that goes in their pocket for keeping China happy.
💡Answering A/C Questions Here💡
📌ruclips.net/video/WJ25yJyQjT4/видео.html
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As the date of this comment (08/03/2017), there are no refridgerants/air duster cans available to purchase.
I thought your video was fantastic! I heard about this before, I just never saw it done. I can't believe how cold your temperature readings were, that was great!
@@HWandW too many kids out there huffing it probably.
Just about everything in this video entertained me. Vice grips to tighten the lines and the gauge set was hysterical. Hopefully someone from the epa didn’t see you purge the enviro-friendly r134 to the atmosphere. Anyway when I was young I did silly things also so don’t feel bad, it’s how we learn.
Just an FYI... You should not need to use vice grips on the knurled hose end couplings. They work finger tight only. If you over torque those? They will eventually fail because you would have crushed the O-ring seals in them.
That gauge is just 50 bucks... I can crush these one every week, who cares...
@@ikstrucking3289 You're an idiot...
Not only were the knurled hose ends tightened beyond finger tight, but the dust caps over the car's schrader valves were beyond finger tight! Man needed his vice grip to remove them!
@@ikstrucking3289 - We certainly don’t care if you’re stupid enough to spend 50 bucks a week on gauges that would last the rest of us decades.
ENVIRO-SAFE is an "ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE" organic, non-toxic, non-ozone depleting hydrocarbon compound. ENVIRO-SAFE is a hydrocarbon refrigerant and has been endorsed by GreenPeace. It is in full compliance with the UN Montreal Protocol. Like most organic materials ENVIRO-SAFE is flammable, but its ignition temperature is 1585ºF at both 5 psi and 0 psi (which is better than the DuPont R-134a's ignition temperature of 368ºF at 5 psi and 1411ºF at 0 psi)
NTGEFASTLANE I use your method for years and years already, on a commercial truck, works amazingly, I cause no grief to environment, even, if in case of accidental system leak out, and I saved hundreds and hundreds. I give you 5 STARS you so deserve it, I recognize your workmanship, and superkind heart posting your amazing video, it's nothing short of a grace, from you, to community.
Blessings to you!
Until it catches fire when you are in an accident!
While cans of electronics duster typically do contain a refrigerant called 1,1 difluoroethane (difluoro-ethane) or 1.2 difluoroethane (there is a difference), it may not be the only ingredient. It may contain other ingredients - which you may not want in your A-C system. Plain HFC 134a at Walmart (without the gauge) is $4.88 for 12 ounces. Plus it comes with a schrader valve type of automatically sealing valve, and the can tap needed is about $8 at O'Reilly auto parts.
You are the absolute champion of vise grips. I salute you O7
its his um.... vice
Wow, here you are doing something helpful for your fellow men and not from all but some, actually more than needed are on you about your tools, harming the O-zone, ect..., We all should care for our environment yes, how ever I thank you for doing something helpful for others that may not know what you know.
*@**16:45* Observe your temperature knob on HVAC control- it is not *fully on COLD*. Always have the hose *connected* to the can tap *BEFORE* tapping the can. Did you also replace the Accumulator Dryer before this charging?
A lot of things were done wrong here. Many have pointed out the use of vice grips on the lines, but that's not the worst of it.
1) Never feed liquid refrigerant into the suction line. The compressor cannot compress a liquid. What happens is you blow out the valves in the compressor. This is the first thing you'll learn if you train for HVAC.
2) The vent temperature should never be below 32 degrees. If it is, that means that the evaporator is freezing over. You may think it's cool blowing that cold, but keep driving like this and it will suddenly blow warm and continue to do so until you replace the compressor.
AMEN!!!!
liquid not compressible but that is not engine where at TDC or power stroke the valves are closed and can’t be open with pressure so if there is water(liquid) the piston rod will bend no ! this is a compressor with reed valves if liquid enter once the pistons move up the pressure will make the discharge valve to open that’s why even when alot of people charge as liquid compressor doesnt actually get damaged I mean it could bend the valves but unlikely
It wasn't R-134a, it was Enviro safe "organic, non-toxic, non-ozone depleting hydrocarbon compound" I mentioned it in the video while releasing it into the water bottle. As for the oil,your correct, I should have mention measuring it and adding what was needed but in my case I had to much in there from alot of product testing.
You should pin this comment to the top.
To all you ignoramus' saying what this guy did venting his refrigerant to the atmosphere was illegal. He said he had Envirosafe refrigerant in the system which is about 60% propane and 40% isobutane. You can buy propane and butane at the store and vent it all you like and no one can do shit about it because it has zero ozone depletion. You could buy a 14.1oz bottle of propane and 2.75oz of Ronson Ultra butane and blow that in any system and you will get extremely cold temperatures if done properly. Europe, Japan, and many Asian countries use Propane/Isobutane for refrigerant with no issues. As for flammability i would be more worried about 18 gallons of gasoline around a hot engine at 40psi through 20+ year old rubber hoses than i would be with less than one pound of propane in an A/C system. Just my 2 cents, I think r134a and all the other crap is all about extracting money from wallets.
He said he had r134a in there. It doesn't contain propane or butane.
Thank GOD. Finally - a voice of reason and logic. Thank you. I've been talking about this shit for years. It's amazing the amount of ignorance and fear mongering out there. It is SO HARD to try to explain anything to these types of sheeple. Carry on.
@@doctorfeinstone6524 He said clear, he had the envirosafe, whatever, version of it
I've done a lot of r152 conversion, but not like this. I have a large clear vacuum box that has can piercers inside it. I load up 12 cans in the box then vacuum it down. Once at an acceptable micron level I valve off the vacuum and pierce the cans. I let the box fill up with all the r152, then I recover it to a 30 pound tank. I have 2-3 full tanks for conversions.
How does performance compare to R12 in your experience?
@@mikelezcurra810 The coefficient of performance is slightly lower than r12 and higher than r134.
1,1-Difluoroethane, or DFE, is an organofluorine compound with the chemical formula C2H4F2. This colorless gas is used as a refrigerant, where it is often listed as R-152a (refrigerant-152a) or HFC-152a (hydrofluorocarbon-152a). It is also used as a propellant for aerosol sprays and in gas duster products. As an alternative to chlorofluorocarbons, it has an ozone depletion potential of zero, a lower global warming potential (124) and a shorter atmospheric lifetime (1.4 years).[2][3] It has recently been approved for use in automobile applications as an alternative to R-134a
I liked your video because it informs people of a unique technique , i was CPA certified about 18 yes ago and i like learning new methods. I really don't know if your technique is legal at the time of my viewing but i really don't care anyway. you have given me knowledge that an alternate form of coolant is available and how to acquire and dispense it. to all the complainers and trolls relax it's a youtube video. I'd like an update on the temps lets say every 5 min on a 2 hr long road trip.
Yes, I know..I should of mentioned it..thanks for letting us know. I'm sure it pulls a good vacuum though.
At 17:22 I noticed your blend door is set at half, you prob would have gotten colder readings at the center vents
Difluoroethane has an ODP of 0 and a GWP of 120.
Though not extremely flammable in gaseous form, 1,1-difluoroethane can burn under some conditions. As such, there is also a warning label present on some gas dusters. When inverted to spray liquid, the boiling fluorocarbon aerosol is easily ignitable, producing a very large blast of flame and extremely toxic gases such as hydrogen fluoride and carbonyl fluoride as combustion products.
Now read the MSDS for a similar HFC refrigerant called R134a... "In the event of fire wear self-contained breathing apparatus."
All of our favorite refrigerants burn fairly enthusiastically under the right conditions. R12, R134, R152, R290, & R600a.
When CFC R12 & R22 burn you get an extremely neurotoxic gas called Phosgene.
R152 & R134a are HFC refrigerants. The byproducts of rapid oxidation, fire, will be fairly close to the same and they are VERY TOXIC too.
R290 is dry clean propane... R600a is Isobutane. They burn with the same enthusiasm as the CFC & HFC refrigerants and are easier to light but they burn without the toxicity of the fluorocarbon refrigerants.
I am not going to extol the virtues of any one refrigerant. Nor am I going to tell you what I run in my vehicle. They are all a tradeoff of Flammability, Raw Toxicity, Ozone depletion, and toxicity when burned. More of one gets you less of some others. There is no Holy Grail. Pick your poison... Literally.
you might also find this article interesting
www.coolingpost.com/world-news/calls-for-ban-on-hydrocarbon-retrofits/
another related article
www.vasa.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/2005-May.pdf
The root cause of the explosion was excessive head pressure from a failed thermostatic expansion valve.
When I'm repairing older AC systems to use any refrigerant I require that a HPCO switch (High Pressure Cut Out) on the compressor head or high pressure output line is installed. It's a safety issue. I do not do this for a living but I will not do an AC retrofit or repair without one. ALL Hydrocarbon & Fluorocarbon refrigerants presently in use will burn explosively when heated by extreme over-pressure.
The latest "EPA approved" FC refrigerant HFO R1234yf ( Tetrafluoropropene CH2=CFCF3 ) releases Hydrogen Flouride when it burns. Hydrogen Flouride is not a big deal... It just melts your lungs instead of permanently damaging your neural pathways the way Phosgene does. A lung transplant and you're good to go right?
The refrigerant game is just that. A game. Regulatory agencies and legislators do and will continue to work for large moneyed interests to protect the moneyed interests profit bases and thereby their illicit cash stream.
The various Fluorocarbon refrigerants, one of which I commonly use, oxidize into into some very nasty byproducts and they can and will explode given the proper malfunctions. Even though I do not use Hydrocarbons I am not a cheerleader for the increasingly dangerous "modern" Fluorocarbon refrigerants.
BTW that tank full of liquid Hydrocarbon that fuels the engine is fairly dangerous too. I knew a very nice young lady that was pinned in her Dodge Dakota and immolated by burning fuel fed from a malfunctioning fuel pump cutoff after an accident. Life is not safe. Driving cars and trucks is definitely not safe. If your number is up Thanatos will collect your soul and deliver you to Kharon the ferryman.
My AC has a leak, and now I know how to leak test, fill with A152, and check for the leak with a match!
Immaculate disclaimer! A must read! Before you watch the video and start criticising and fault finding.
Interestingly, all the negative feedback is incorrect. R152A (1,1 Diflouroethane) is indeed approved as an alternative to R134a, as it has lower greenhouse gas potential. There is positively no reason to not employ "Air Duster" gas in a R134a application. (Now, you really need to get handles for your manifold and stop with the vice grips. Those valve seats are soft elastomers.)
some people should not be able to buy tools,let alone use them
For what is worth. I put this stuff in a 92 honda civic hb, with about 230K miles and about 3.5 months later the evap got a leak, big pipe to evap got leak, and 2 black rubber 0-rings leaked.
I think perhaps this uses higher pressure.
Also, I didnt notice it being any colder than r134a.
I am going to try r12a next.
Been doing this for year. My 1990 R12 Ford Ranger is still blowing cold.
Quick question. Will the R-152 work with R-134a PAG oil? I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban I want to turn into a rolling icebox.
No
Yes it will. I've researched this thoroughly as I'm thinking of doing this.
My Hilux Truck Low side pressure is 50psi
& High Side is 300psi
so the Compressor is good or bad?
Overcharged system
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: ruclips.net/video/LauAEm96Wfw/видео.html
No one I've seen mentions or yet notices that his Heat/Cool dial is not turned all the way to the coldest. It was blending some with the warm. It would make a significant difference, so it could've been Colder blow temperature.
You should not charge with liquid on the "low side". Only charge with liquid when the car is NOT running and put it into the "high side". Finish charging on the "low side" with vapor, with the engine running. Check your temp at the center vent with the blower on "LOW". You get the coldest air on "low", "high" is for volume.
R-152a is flammable. In case of an accident, it could make the situation worse. R134 is non-flammable, in fact it could put out a fire.
In Europe they are banning R134a because of global warming. Guess what they are planning on replacing it with, R744 which is R152a.
how much oil is lost when venting the enviro-safe refrigerant like dust off for example?
does one need to add any oil after that and how much approximately?
Ivan Konstantinov You shouldn't vent it, it's still considered a refrigerant (R152a) and EPA bans venting of ANY refrigerant. it's one thing to use dust-off for its intended purpose (using it for anything other than its intended purpose is illegal as well, but we won't get into that). But to answer your question, it all depends on how the gas is removed. If it's removed as a liquid, it's going to take the oil with it. you will lose minute amounts removing gas as well. The only way to know for sure how much oil is in your system is to remove the oil, and refill to your vehicle specs, usually on the label under your hood.
Tyler Helgerson In that case, spraying Dust Off on anything other than a computer is illegal. So forget about the technicalities for a second, how is the result of releasing it from an AC system rather than its can, any different whatsoever? It's "intended purpose" is to be released into the environment. The law you are referring to definitely wasn't written with Dust Off (as a refrigerant) in mind. If you're so worried about people venting r152 from their AC system, then you should also start a campaign against the Dust Off product itself, when used for its intended purpose.
+Tyler Helgerson Epa doesn't regulate or ban Eviro-safe or Dustoff.
Enviro-Safe Refrigerant does not fall under or within the guidelines set
forth by Congress concerning global warming or ozone depletion because
it is an environmentally safe, non-global warming and non-ozone
depleting product.
Therefore, Enviro-Safe Refrigerant does not require "approval" to be used or sold as a HFC 134a substitute.
+pearlmax dude I've got to get you to the court and sue you, with an option you get off only when show what law prohibits us to use dust off dusting my shelf, files, power strip outlets, Internet modems and routers, PC fans, motherboard, etc. Did you know there is an answer to be held for scam activity?
I don't think you are getting off that easy for the abominable activities you are doing
Yea, if you have a gun permit, you can use a gun to clean your ears out too! Watch my video too!!!
Tried that on a E36 bmw, 1997, didn't work; system makes noise,not sure if the compressor was already bad,or if it went bad with this gas; or if the oil that was in the system is not compatible,maybe ?
Just a heads up, you may want to edit and add the fact that R152a (Duster, Dust-off) Is Infact FLAMMABLE... so make sure that you have no leaks at all in your system especially at the evaporator(little radiator in the car) and more so if you happen to be a smoker..R-152a does not smell so if the Evap leaks and the car is now full of that R152a and you happen to light a cig.... Car Go BOOM.. Lesson learned, keep an on on your levels, and quit smoking....
16:41 you can see the temp selector knob is partly turned to heat. Make sure you have yours all the way to cold before doing temp readings.
maxbored The dial was broken.It was to the coldest setting.
I gotta try this....
I tried 134a in my 87 C4 Corvette and it's not cooling down the air inside the cabin...and it mostly blows on the floor, very little comes out the vents😒😟☹🙁
If possible / practical for your model car- check your vent system at the evaporator. It is likely to be very dirty and clogged. I don't know what year auto MFR"S started to install cabin filters but I know filters can become so dirty they can prevent proper cooling. You may also have a problem with vent "doors" not opening / closing correctly.
Nthefastlane, Interesting Video !!! I have 3 coments 1) All of the professional HVAC guys that make videos say NEVER tighten your HVAC gauge hoses more than hand tight. 2) if you hook your hose to the puncture tool before puncturing the can it will be easier on the fingers. 3) the infrared thermometers cant read the air temperature, they can only the temperature of solid objects like the fins on the vents which are warmer then the actual air temperature. I used my Infrared thermometer on the vent slats and my AC thermometer inserted into the center of the vent and it read about 15 degrees colder then the Infrared. Otherwise it was a good video.
LTBROYT6A
All of you comments prove that this Bozo's video isn't worth two pennies rubbed together!
@@user-cy6gf2pj7y - Amen!
Congratulations, your air conditioning will now be Dust Free!
@16:45, shouldn't your temp dial be all the way CCW to the coldest setting?
Releasing any refrigerant into the atmosphere IS illegal, r-134a or not. EPA "Complying With The Section 608 Refrigerant Recycling Rule" page is a good reference to that.
You just may be the coolest guy on youtube....literally! :0) Thanks for enriching my knowledge...people can joke your lock pliers, but your still cool!
Just wondering - did you have any issues with icing since you were below freezing at the evaporator? I know this is common in commercial walk-in freezers but haven't seen it done in a car before now.
TheWizechatmgr When you pull vacuum, the ice sublimes off into a vapor and is evacuated from the system, once you get down to around 29.8 inches Hg. This is why pulling a good vacuum is so important.
@@ModMINI Dumb ass, he is talking about the evaporator coil building ice on the outside while the unit is running, not ice on the inside of the lines! And 29.8inches Hg is still not enough of a vacuum pulled! In HVAC, you read vacuum in MICRONS, which is far deeper than 29.8"Hg!
Hi just a thought,why did you not attach the pipe to the side can tap before piercing the can (save getting cold fingers)
I didn't want the clamp to slip, the hose put a little tension on the wrist. It could have been done that way also. If you don't use the whole can you have to take it off anyway :)
I get 34 degree vent temps in the middle vent on a 95 degree humid day in florida with r134a
Not a bad video - However there are a few updates here that you should know
1 - Once the can is pierced with the tool it will leak out slowly over time. I know this because after a partial charge I did to a vehicle the can did still leak out through the gasket on the tool.
2 - You must have the yellow hose connected to the adapter BEFORE you pierce the can - that way you won't risk in frost bite.
3 - Do not remove the yellow hose from the adapter when changing cans. Keep the apparatus closed and in tacked .
4 - I do agree of the purging of the yellow hose to the gauge set - so you don't get air into the system.
Other than that You'll be cool and ready to enjoy the summer...
Have you add lubricate oil?
I recommend everyone buy the approved R134a, which can be had at $5.00 a 12 ounce can at walmart or on line. Of course if you need to recover your refrigerant, go to a shop and have them do that. They will do it for free.
King of the A/C vice grips. Renew the o rings and knobs on your manifold guage.
Do you have an R152a temperature pressure chart? Can't seem to find one on the internet.
Because there isn't one!
You should never have to use vice grips on hose fittings!
And please get knobs for ur gauges 👍🏼
I'm putting in a new compressor, expansion valve & drier in my 97 Golf. How would I get the new oil into the compressor during this procedure? Great video! thanks,,,
And I will also add that the gauge on the low side reading 30 psi at idle - you can go a bit lower of 25 to 28 and you'll have colder temps... it takes a bit of practice and fine tuning but you add the refrigerant slowly but adding more will overcharge the system and you'll defeat the purpose and have warmer air coming from your vents.
Great videos - hleped alot...
Currently - 99 ford explorer - compressor off....
Jumped the high and low sensors - compressor kicked on - no cold air - though.
Your thoughts on that?
Find someone other than this "Bozo the clown" to ask!
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: ruclips.net/video/LauAEm96Wfw/видео.html
Good grief man. You don't need to tighten the fittings on your gauges with vice grips. They're knurled because they only need to be finger right.
replacement knobs are cheeper than vice grips and are lighter too
Why do you keep removing the supply line between bottles? Just pop the clip open and change to the new bottle. Much quicker and you don't have to freeze your un-gloved fingers!
This guy knows exactly enough to be dangerous.
AMEN!!!!!
Cheers to Nthefastlane!! I like people that think. As a chemist, I can guarantee it works, but it is a little...well volatile, as are many of the substitute gases. Take care, ignore the haters.
must be one of them college edumacated chemists... it's far less VOLATILE than everything else it is a good substitute for... INCLUDING 134a... I'm guessing you work for the CDC... eh? eh?
@@rduvending *a good substitute* ?.... how bout that PAG oil in there, from the r134a, you think it's compatible with the propane+butane mix?
@@josepeixoto3384 Not sure the age of this car. IF it is a R-12 system and if the system has never been flushed and had the oil changed, it should still have mineral oil installed. Enviro-Safe product is ALSO a special gas and CAN be installed with Mineral, Ester or Pag oil. Mineral oil should not be used with 134a. That is why IMO Ester oil is a good choice after a system is flushed as it is compatible with R-12 and 134a.
Thanks for the Video, it gave me the courage to fix an AC system myself. A Pack-Rat bit through my High Side hose releasing the coolant. I guess there was condensation on it or something and he was thirsty. The harbor freight vacuum pump was a good idea, I think it was around $20, worked great was able to almost pull -25 on the low side and well below zero on the high side. Also a manifold down there was about $60.Two 12oz Cans of Arctic Zone R138A - $16.00, Found Dye for $8, and a necessary Brass CAN Tap for about $6 at O'Rilleys. I didn't use the Dustoff because I wasn't sure it was compatible with my current setup, so I had to go with the R-134A. The only refrigerant that was released was the stuff the pack-rat released. Heard a hissing sound when he bit through the line, I thought I was overheating and it took me a while to find the leak. Hissed for about 2 minutes. Probably froze his face off. He also bit through my radiator overflow valve. Stinking rat Cost me a day of work and at least 300 in parts and tools, not to mention the mess he made inside my machine. Piss and Turds everywhere.
A "-25" isn't a good vaccuum! A good vacuum can't even be read on a standard refrigeration gauge because IT IS IN MICRONS, and is deeper than a refrigeration gauge can measure!
easy with those vice grips tiger!
good on you for posting this video, sure there are things you could have done better but overall great stuff. Thanks for trying to help people.
Got a good laugh watching this.
It is against E.P.A. regulations to release any refrigerant into the atmosphere. 134a is a hydroflurocarbon and should not be released into the atmosphere. It isn't as harmful as some of the refrigerants but E.P.A. says no to releasing into the atmosphere. Check epa regulations and you will see that I am correct.
Danny Calk so airduster shouldnt be released?......the envirosafe he released was butane propane stuff not feon
To Daniel B. The E.P.A. and I say again says no to releasing any refrigerant into the atmosphere, in some countries butane/propane is used as a refrigerant there by falling under the guidelines of the E.P.A. We all live in this world together, it doesn't matter where you abide, we all have to work together to protect our atmosphere. I don't know about you but I appreciate a good deep breath of fresh air every once in awhile. Oh, and by the way refrigerant is the word, not Freon, because Freon is a brand name released by DuPont Years ago.
Danny Calk Well said man
Danny Calk so if its a diffrent product but a diffrent lable it all of a sudden becomes a refrigerant? what if he released air duster that was in the system is that still refrigerant ? just wanna know ...thanks
Danny Calk then they shouldnt sell air duster in stores. lmfao
if you guys don't have anything positive to say please don't post the guy is only trying to help I appreciate the video thank you very much you ok
Makes my butt pucker every time I watch you "vice grip" the fittings on your gauges. They have soft rubber washers so they can be hand sealed. Go buy a new washer kit and do them by hand. Also, put your hose on the green clamp first so you don't freeze your fingers then purge. Otherwise good video.
I second this.
There are a lot of cringe worthy parts that shows he doesn't really understand the physics. Like the can shaking before hookup to keep it "from freezing"? And r134 should be recaptured properly and not vented. This video could be massively improved with a little bit of instruction and comparison to the original 134.
Part of that instruction could include why it kept bubbling for a while after he vented the 134. The venting process caused all the plumbing to get cold. In the end as the tubing and other coils heat up they cause the residual 134 to heat up which causes it to expand. Thus it continues to bubble. Also why repurge when you could just leave it hooked up to the special side tap?
Something he also didn't consider is that some gasses carry the oil through the system better than others. Duster gas isn't used for a reason. Might want to find out what that reason is.
@@bryanfullerton1566 And venting R134A in the United States IS ILLEGAL and carries up to a $50,000 fine!
@@bryanfullerton1566 You can get away with one but not both of the PAG oils. PAE has better misicibility across the various flavors but you need to pay attention to what you're putting in the system and how much.
Google R152A Refrigerant oil. You'll find a link to a Refsols PDF that contains a Miscibility chart for refrigerants and refrigerant oils.
The Folks using Envirosafe should be aware that the PAG oil in the system may not work as well with Hydrocarbon (R290 R600 etc) blends as the mineral oils that were used in R12 systems.
AC isn't just dump charge it up and go. You can get into trouble with the gubmint and you can damage the systems if you don't take the time to learn to properly service the system.
It's not impossible for a DIY guy to learn how to safely and properly service an AC system but you need to study a bit before jumping in the deep end of the pool.
@@TheOcculus You should tell the OP that.
It's actually illegal to vent any refrigerant into the atmosphere as defined by Section 608 of the Clean Air Act. It has less ozone depletion than R12 but it is still bad for the environment. There's a reason it's required by law for shops to recycle it. Other than that I have enjoyed your videos, man!
hi there
thnx for the video
but try this: Johnsen's 6312-12pack r134a; its lowest was $44 on amazon(47 now at time of post); 47/12+tax=$4.23 per 12oz can. Cheapest possible r134a cans i have found so far + american made + no additive.
just becuase Difluoroethane is stated on the can, it does not necessarily is a refrigerant.
the r134a is 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane
***** "1,1-Difluoroethane, also DFE is an organofluorine compound with the chemical formula C2H4F2. This colorless gas is used as a refrigerant, where it is often listed as R-152a or HFC-152a. As an alternative to chlorofluorocarbons, it has an ozone depletion potential of zero, a lower global warming potential (120) and a shorter atmospheric lifetime (1.4 years).[2] It has recently been approved for use in automobile applications as an alternative to R-134a."
Yes,I mean don't go huffing the stuff but if you think about it, they do tell you to spray it on your keyboards and computer items in your house.So I don't think it will harm you. Yes, Enviro Safe can be used as a replacement for 134a and r12..just add it right in the mix with out releasing the 134a or r12.I threw this stuff in my other car that was l low with 134a and mixed it together @ 50psi and it get freezing and the compressor never kicks off while driving or sitting.
The compressor SHOULD kick off...
I liked the video and will try it although I did just buy 8 cans of R134 at Big Lots for $6.50 a can. It's $14 a can at AutoZone. My question is does drawing the vacuum remove the oil? Also on my S-10 the temp control knob also runs air through the heater core when its not fully set on cold. I noticed from the video that yours was about a quarter way from full cold towards the heat side. I wish I had seen your video a week ago.
if u draw a vac... yes, u do get pag oil (not all in the system though... think of the oil in your cooling system like a two cycle dirt bike.... kinda
it mixes with the freon when being compressed but settles when not and separates quickly
Use the bitterant to find leaks =P
Here's some good reading....
NFPA RATINGS (SCALE 0-4): HEALTH=0 FIRE=4 REACTIVITY=0
FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARDS: Severe fire hazard. Severe explosion hazard. The gas is heavier than air. Vapors or gases may ignite at distant ignition sources and flash back.Electrostatic discharges may be generated by flow or agitation resulting in ignition or explosion. Containers may rupture or explode if
exposed to heat
What oil would work best for this?looks like he likes to over tighten his valves,broke the knobs off of his guage set.
I owned an automotive air conditioning & radiator shop from 1973 to about 2003. Then I sold it to an employee and it is still open today (about 50 years later). In my 30 plus years of servicing vehicle air conditioners I did not use vice grip pliers to connect the service fittings.
It is OK to try things.
It is against the law to vent refrigerants.
It is against the law to mix refrigerants.
It is against the law to put a different refrigerant in a system with out labeling it as such.
When some one hooks up to a vehicle with R134a service fittings, they expect it has R134a in it. You would not want some one later to contaminate their A/C equipment by hooking up to a car with R134a fittings but having R152a in it.
Some shops use charging stations, I did not like them.
I had a refrigerant identifier and used it before refrigerant recovery.
I always used gauge sets to check out and service cars.
I always used new refrigerant to top off working systems and after repairs.
These comments are for viewers.
ENVIRO-SAFE is a zero ozone depleting "second generation" replacement for R-134a and all other substitutes for Freon that are non-ozone depleting. Unlike R134a, it is also non-global-warming . EPA's Final Rule, issued April 1, 1994, states:"In this final rule, the Agency has determined that second generation replacements, if they are non-ozone depleting and are replacing non-ozone depleting first generation alternatives, are exempt from reporting requirements under Section 612"
Your statement is a complete non-truth!
-How long have you had this product in your a/c system? And is there, over a period of time, a possibility that it could break down and damage the compressor?
Thanks for the video
Marvin
Me using dust off for 9th year already, super!
Hillarous!! The best " How not to" vid I have seen in ages. First thing in this Video I'm going to show you is how to commit an Illegal act the free world over by venting refrigerant to atmosphere! Hahahahah! I was waiting for you to demonstrate how to tip sump oil down the storm water drain next or burn old tyres in your backyard!
I loved the comic genius in not only having spray come out of the first bottle you tapped and giving yourself a freeze burn, you did it the second time as well! Normally you see a gag once and that's it but this was even funnier when you repeated it. Classic!
The pliers on the hose connections was funny but not as good as the $20 gauge set with no knobs and you putting pliers on there. Comedy genius. But the finishing touch with the lawnmower racket in the background of the sign off at the end was inspired. Just that little extra humour outside of the main subject comedy.
I'll bet Mr.Bean could not have done any of those gags and got any more laughs.
Good job man! These vids are hard work, consume valuable time, and the tuber did all of it for FREE. Now, people who are "interested" at least have an alternative. Should everyone do it? Who knows, but anyone can easily do their own research, which is also free, and decide if it is the right approach for them, or not. As far as flammability goes, cars are already full of gasoline for god's sake and there are dangerous people everywhere texting vs looking at the road; so, using dust-off will be near the bottom of the high risk category. Lastly, this obviously isn't a high volume shop, which released some "Enviro-Safe" from single car, and rude, hypersensitive viewers jump on this one guy? What a waste of time. If you want to be cool, A. Offer some "respectful" advice combined with some sign of appreciation.B. Call Eviro-Safe and explain they should rebrand their product "Enviro-Not-Safe" so consumers aren't misled. -Thanks for the vid and sharing your knowledge.
lol.. "vise grips" ..other than this kid needing a few crescent wrenches for Christmas, this is some nice out of the box thinking to find a cheaper way to get the job done. I remember my Dad laughing at the country used car dealer who put straight propane in the dash air systems of his used cars back in the 80s, but after a bit of engineering education and working in the industry.. turns out the guy was right. Way to go kid! GET A CRESCENT WRENCH.
if you can't afford 134 you should ride the bus. 134 IS CHEAP IT'S 5 BUCKS FOR 12 OZ
And in my area you can buy 30 lbs for $66 at Sams club! Hardly any reason not to use it unless it is underperforming on an r12 retrofit.
Legally Sam's cannot sell this size canister of Freon to anyone who is not EPA certified. The only size available to the general user are the single use cans.
Went to Napa and it’s 30 dollars for a 12oz can of r134a in California
@@jordyworley91 But if you drive just over the border, you'd find it for less than $10 per can!
Hi
Can Dust off be mixed with R134a? Just wondering if I can top up a 134a system with it.
Thanks
Terry Gee Yes.
no
It is illegal to do so, and the resulting chemical mixture produces acid which reduces the life of your compressor
Whats the long term update on this a/c system?
Dan Kelley No issues. Still ice cold to date.
im having fun standing up against the poo poo'ers here
Wouldn't it be colder if the temperature control knob was turned all the way to cold? At 16:40.
CFM ≠ Vacuum. That's the air requirement for the compressor to operate the pump. A perfect vacuum would be 30"Hg. That pump is probably capable of pulling 27 or 28"Hg, which is sufficient.
I cringed at that and figured he had no idea what CFM stood for. The other vac pump from harbor freight doesn't need a air compressor and is much better.
With the synthetic oils, a 28"Hg vacuum IS NOT sufficient enough!
@@bryanfullerton1566 And pulls a proper vacuum. The cheap POS he's using can't pull a proper vacuum!
Curious when you have a system designed for R134A Why do you want to change it to another refrigerant? Yes R152a is colder, but it is highly flammable. You run a risk should a leak develop you have a fire under your hood.
+George W R152a has the same flammability as R134a
but the systems arent compatible anyway...
I watched another vid where guy sprays R152a onto an open flame.....it put out the flame......I feel pretty safe with that!
And get that dangerous gasoline out of here!
THERE'S A GUY IN ANOTHER VIDEO USING PROPANE 129 AS A REFRIGERANT ON AN OLD TRUCK.
Love some of the comments on here. I guess nobody realizes that the new vehicles have R-1234YF and that stuff is extremely flameable. R152a literally takes ~1/2 the charge of R134a. It also vastly outperforms R134a especially over 90°F. Not talking a couple of degrees either, talking 8-10°F colder vent temps. As for 250+ head pressure, LOL. Come to Texas and look at the pressure a R134a system runs at when charged per factory specification. Before the vehicles interior cools off the system will cycle multiple times on the 400-430 psi high pressure cut-off. In 105°F and 30-40% humidity the high side will run 325-350 psi and that is with a properly functioning fan. At prolonged idle, R134a might stay 55-60°F at idle if you are lucky in those conditions, while some get closer to 70°F. Pag oil is compatible with R152a. I have run it in multiple vehicles for over 200K and have yet to see a compressor related failure from the R152a. I did have a clutch coil go open on my 230K mile G35 which is fairly common on Nissan products anyway even running R134a. When I pulled that system down, it was clean, oil was well distributed, the old compressor had several ounces of oil in it, so the Pag works with R152a.
r1234yf: It's not very flammable. Just a little bit. With these tiny amounts, there is more danger coming from your gasoline tank.(in case of accident).
is it me or was your temperature knob not all the way over to cold?
It's not just you. I noticed that also. Seems his readings would have been colder if it was.
The plastic knob was broken.It was set to cold underneath.
he set it under the dash for a vice grip.... you see the end of the handle hanging down out from under the dash
LOL
@Kim reck
Why am I not surprised? This guy must buy cheap vice grips in multipacks!
agreed Kujawat. now this is a DIYer that should definitely have a disclaimer. Then again i have been warned not to "critisise" others by findvoltage. haha
Awesome dude 👌
I thing that almost any gas that will compress into a liquid will get cold going from a liquid to a gas so technically this would work but not sure how long it would last
I have been using it for 3 years in my 93 300ZX convertible and 2.5 years in my brother in laws 99 BMW 740i. It works very well. Actually better than 134a due to the lower head pressures.
Great video and I'd love to try this on my old Honda.
It seems that the "Dust Off" and other brands of spray that I have found now contain a bitterant to help discourage inhalant abuse. Does this added chemical pose any problems for using this in your AC System??
I see this video was posted in 2013, so not sure if the BITTERANT was in the original product back then or not...
Does anyone know where you can purchase this product WITHOUT the BITTERANT added?
Thanks!
optionstraderman Evidently the Bitterant is not a big concern.. Today, June 24, 2015, I found 3 pack cans of "Dust Off" on Walmart's site for $8.38. If you print out their web page showing the prices and take it to the store, they will price match in the store for the 3 pack which I believe is priced at around $11.50 in the store.
www.walmart.com/ip/Dust-Off-Electronics-Duster/25596750
Do you have to evacuate R12 before charging? M7 car is half filled and don't want to lose my R12.
Mixing refrigerants is a bad idea.
@@jessetate6244 I agree! It is also illegal according to the US EPA clean air act!
poor guy makes a awesome video on to save you hundreads and everybody wants to give him shit. i appriciate the video bro keep making them. i have to do this on my 240 this month
*****
You are wrong. Do some research before opening pie hole.
Juan Vargas save money? how about telling and encouraging people to violate the law. R134a is not legally permitted to be released into the atmosphere. how about you learn about federal mobile refrigeration laws...
ViciousTech
Well sir, if you would of read the description of the video you would understand your comment is uneccesary and owe me an apology. I am a BMW level 3 technican, certified diesel technican, and a ASE certified Master technican. I also have my 608 and my 609. Who are you again? Have a nice day
ViciousTech . . ... so can u tell me ....when u have a leak where this r134 goes. i assume to the atmosphere. but maybe im wrong. hahaha stupid people talking about laws and this guy pay extra money to pass smog regulations. hahahaha
Juan, 3-12 Oz cans of dust off costs around $20. 3-12 Oz cans of R134a on amazon or ebay cost about $20. I'm sorry, but I'm not seeing the savings. Maybe a few bucks at the most. I'm no expert on what Difluoroethane might do to my air conditioning system, and therefore quite reluctant to remove the 134a and put in dust off. When the manufacturer of my vehicle says it's ok to replace the R134a with R152a then I may do it. I'm certainly not going to do it because some vice grip wielding kid on RUclips says it's a good idea. Fwiw, it is totally illegal to vent your R134a, or R12 to the atmosphere. You're supposed to get it recovered from your system. When he vented the system, was he venting a previous charge of Difluoroethane, or 134a? When he and his friends replace 134a in a system with dust off does he / they properly capture the old refrigerant? I bet not, and thus can cram any claims about caring for the environment where the sun doesn't shine. It's hypocrisy. The average car leaks less than 1oz per year through the compressor seal. He's dumping 20-30 times that much when he dumps one of these systems.
How far can you be and still have the car start?
Is that difluoroethane compatible with the PAG 46 oil from the R134a?
yes
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: ruclips.net/video/LauAEm96Wfw/видео.html
Good job overall, with a few suggestions. It's not pronounced di-flor'-o-thane. It's pronounced di-flor-o-eth'-ane. Also, try not to add refrigerant in straight liquid form - alternate gas and liquid by tilting the can back and forth. Takes a little longer, but you won't slug the compressor. Good job posting the safety corrections.
Cotronixco I was also concerned with him pushing liquid direct to the low pressure side. You can do damage to your compressor by sucking liquid from the low pressure side (liquid is not compressible... think of what water locking your engine does). I've also read that you want to make sure that you are using Ester oil with R152a. This is still good information, people just need to be careful with how they implement it.
You will notice that he filled the thing with the engine off to an unspecified amount (10 oz). Then he started the engine. After that he added only a little bit at a time. Adding it like that, it is then not necessary to rotate back and forth. He just cracked the knob then waited till it settled and did it again till it was full. This is a more practical and sensible way to fill it rather than dump in so many oz because that is what the label says. (And there are only a few compressors that actually are bothered by the possibility - I don't know if the newer compressors are like that.)
You will just find out that another fill will be needed or that it is over full. The manufacturers are just trying to provide for their automatic filling machines so that the cheapest level of mechanic can fill the thing using the inaccurate machines.
And it's di-flewro -eth'-ane. The 'u' is not silent. but everyone knew what he was talking about. It was written on the can!
Is that the same stuff they sold for to replace R12 it was propane or something flammable Freeze 12. I tired it a few times on old R12 systems didn't work. If you system is working well R134A will work. Some of the older 90's cars had poorly designed 134A systems.
Freeze 12 works (worked) fine... The hassles were no shops will touch it... and it's hard to find at a decent price now. I used it 3x in old R12 cars and they both cooled great. Don't use it anymore because of the above hassles.
Your chance of getting burned by something like that in your ac system is squat compared to a leaking gas line on your engine.
Dan Limbaugh I tried it but could not get the pressures right ended up just doing a full conversion to 134A replaced everything except the evap. On my toyota pickup I just go on eBay and get R12 not that expensive only holds a few lbs nothing is better then old fashion R12.
I didn't have gauges back then... I just read how many oz's of freeze 12 were supposed to be equal to xx oz's of r12... vacuum'd the system with a pump from AutoZone and then shot in that specific amount of Freeze 12... plus a little can of freeze12 lubricant that came with it.
Oh!!!! I for got to add this part!!!
I got very lucky. right after I'd ordered the Freeze12 from eBay... I was at my local NAPA store... and they had a little worn out box that had a few fittings in it and 3 little 10 or so inch long hoses... it said "Freeze12 manifold Kit" handwritten on the box! I bought it for $25 or something... and that was I was able to vacuum down the system... because the Freeze12 cans' and adaptor they give you have bizarre reverse threads on them. And the high and low pressure threads are different too I think.
Normal vacuum lines for R12 or R134 won't work, so once you put the reverse thread fittings on... how do you vacuum it properly?
Dan Limbaugh I think I made some sort of adaptor from copper fittings I got from Home Depot but I was able to vacuum it. It got cold but it would not at low speed or stop lights. That truck was a 1980 c-20 3x3 cab the A6 GM compressor was on it's last legs. Instead of wasting the money on another one I got an aftermarket 134a from a local guy who sells all the parts he even makes you custom hoses you just drive down there he measures it all out about $50 for everything. The condenser he sold me was a cross flow I mounted it with some brackets I made. When I was done the system worked well better then stock 134A on my friends 94 pickup. Back in those years 134A was new and cars coming from the factory had poor designs the condenser wasn't' big enough. I'm in Phoenix so AC gets hit hard here. That pickup I had the front end was really big so I was able to fit the largest 134A condenser he had. I usually charge to high side pressure to temp chart when I get close I wait until my vent gauge gets to 20F it's good. I check to make sure it doesn't cycle too fast when idling. With a fixed tube they are suppose to cycle. If you ever need any help post on their forum www.ackits.com they are in phoenix all they do is auto ac nothing else they are experts.
Hey I did the same thing in this video in my 2004 blazer works WAY better than the last ac shop that charged me $150.00 a hell of a lot colder to. And for the record that was a year and a half ago still will freeze you out of the truck! Oh yeah by the way GARY the main reason by refrigerants were changed twice was all about money everything can hurt the environment.
Follow the money on refrigerants and then you will see what politicians made a shitload of money from it for god sake they are wanting to change the feed for cattle so they dont fart so much because they are damaging the environment to you jumping on that bandwagon to? If so stop eating beans or I will turn you in for illegal farting dam get a education.
Great video lose the vice-scripts at worst case use a crescent wrench and knobs are cheap to get just busting your chops.
You shouldn't vent it, it's still considered a refrigerant (R152a) and EPA bans venting of ANY refrigerant. it's one thing to use dust-off for its intended purpose (using it for anything other than its intended purpose is illegal as well, but we won't get into that). If you feel you absolutely MUST do this conversion, do it the right way. Take it to a shop and have the 134a recovered. It's cheap. Hell, if you live near me i'll do it for free. Then buy Actual 152a refrigerant, and use that. Bear is mind though, SAE has already done extensive studies on 134a vs.152a. 152a will show better performance ONLY if the expansion valve is adjusted. At the same cooling capacity, air Discharge temp of 152a and 134a are almost identical.
I've never seen a temperature /pressure chart for canned air. How do you know what the evaporator or condenser temp is? Asking for trouble with this stuff.
Yes, he is!
How well does the Difluoroethane cas#75-37-6 work in place of R12?
From what I've heard about as good as R12. Definitely better than R134a.
Make sure the compressor oils changed, mineral oil from R 12 systems is not compatible with new gases
Are you saying R-152a is colder than HC-12a (Enviro-Safe)? My research leads to the the exact opposite conclusion.
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: ruclips.net/video/LauAEm96Wfw/видео.html
@@Nthefastlane Thanks! I will have a watch.
Correction: It is only illegal to release r-134a if it is coming out of an air conditioner. It's important to note that considering that r-134a (not just r-152a) is used in several brands of duster (3M, for example).
I guess what I'm trying to say is that just because it's illegal doesn't mean it will actually amount to anything. :)
There are also some refrigerants that are legal to vent off, mostly HC based, such as butane/propane blends. Of course, those aren't legal for cars in the US.
If have R12 stick with R12. If changing it you must recover R12, but often have to change other components as well or you will not be happy with the cooling. I prefer dealing with the more inert R134a.
What was the ambient temp? I'm going to do this to my S-10... My r134a retrofit cant get much better than 60F, and Insane high side pressures
Have the system properly recovered and vacuumed down. If you went from zero charge to 134a without doing a vacuum, then there is most likely air in the system. Also, water in the system will boil off, that's why a leak-free system that was opened up tend to lose vacuum and the process is often repeated 2-3 times before a recharge.
r134a is $5 a 12oz can at walmart.
R134a is garbage
R134a is the result of our government getting involved in something they didn't understand. R12 was much colder ran at a lower pressure therefore did not cause as many leaks. R12a is a much better replacement for r12 r134a caused a lot of compressors to go bad prematurely from running too much head pressure the systems were not designed to handle it. but our government was like all but just over pressure in the system it'll be okayas long as it cost the consumer more money and puts money in our pocket. As far as r152a or duster in this case it runs at a much lower pressure and there's more efficient then even r12. Of course our government is coming out with more new stuff now like r1234a instead of fixing the real problemstopping China from dumping cheap refrigerators and air conditioning units on our market with steel lines the rust out in corrode at the dissimilar metal connections causing leaks. Also they make these units so cheap and service guys don't like to work on them so people throw them away and by new then we have a whole bunch of old non-working unit out there leaking refrigerant into the atmosphere there's the real problem. Take a look at your refrigerator you will notice copper braised onto a steel line any point where dissimilar metals meet is a point of corrosion and future leak. Just dorm size refrigerators around the United States alone leak more into the atmosphere in one day then all the cars do in a yr now add cheap Chinese window mount air conditioning units to that and the number goes up to the point that it would take all the automobiles 10 years is Rick as much as these two items to in one day.but no politician really cares about the atmosphere in the ozone layer and your well-being they really care about the old mighty Dollar that goes in their pocket for keeping China happy.
Obviously the O-rings have been gone for a while if the knobs are gone! Who needs wrenches, the guy is a genius. Good dude too. Liv ya man!