Tools used in this video: R134A Gauge Set with Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/3WRgL4D 1234YF Gauge Set:amzn.to/3WWxd3rMy R134A Gauge Set: amzn.to/3R4IGKz Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/4awnfsF Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Hi Repair Greek! Could you help me repair my car ac system. Have a 2009 mazda 6 the ac was working fine until a few weeks again when it stops and blowing cold air. Checked fuse, relay and compressor clutch all are working OK. Hook up gauge without engine running on a 78 F day Low side was 85 psi, High side 85 psi. With engine running and ac on full blast, no change in readings L 85 psi H 85 psi. If fact after running engine for about 2 minutes high side temp increased to about 90 psi then I shut off engine. Don't know what to do. Please help me as I want to fix it myself. Thanks
This is the first time ever I am watching a video that explains the basic theory behind the automotive aircon system very well explained and you are not going too fast as many others do. Congratulations and thanks a million man. keep it up.
I just bought my manifold qauge set and vacum pump. Getting ready to work on my SUV A/C for the first time in my life !! And I'm 72 years old !! Thanks for the excellent theory class on diagnosing A/C systems !! 😇
@@kylelove927 Not finished yet. I'm going to replace the reciever drier and the expansion valve. But I'm out of money this month. My A/C works fine, just as long as it's below 85 degrees fahrenheit. But here in South Carolina it's going above 90 just about every day, then my A/C produces a 60 degree temp. So I just do all my travel in the morning, and park the SUV in the afternoon. 😭😭😭
The valve stems are the most common leak , right where you hook either gauge , high or low , always check them last , soapy water works for them .@@Crazy-about-cats
You learn something new everyday. I have watched several AC videos recently and yours is the only one that said to evacuate the gauge before connecting it
@@MontyGee-jq6xlbe sure your valves at the service ports are closed when you try pulling the vacuum, or you'll lose all your refrigerant. Close both of the valves at the manifold gauge to isolate the yellow hose before opening the valves at the service ports. I'd have connected the hoses to the service ports with those valves closed while drawing vacuum to check that the gauge set is not leaking while they're connected instead of connecting them after drawing vacuum.
Hi everyone I'm new to this and would love to be a DIY-er on automotive A/C....a recovery machine is too expensive for me but I can manage buying a recovery tank.....can anyone with great knowledge on this subject please help me learn how to evacuate refrigerant from my vehicle using the manifold gauge, vacuum pump and recovery tank without having to use a recovery machine? I would greatly appreciate all the help I can get thanks
A/C systems are what we call closed loop. In a perfect world, if they don't leak, but in reality as seal age leaks develop. The EASIEST for step for MOST r134 systems is just check your system pressure. No pressure, no run. Pressure switches are installed as safety devices to assure it won't run w/o the lubricant oil you spoke of. After that, if you lost pressure, you have to assume you have a leak. A UV dye is needed to locate the failed seal, then replace and recharge. If you have pressure, then proceed to troubleshoot pressure switches and relays. Always check pressure first. Low side usually needs a minimum of around 30 psi to kick on. If the overall system volume is low, it will run and then stop. This means you still have a leak, but a slow one and might be able to limp through a season with a recharge. Keep in mind, if your system has lost all volume, you'll need a vacuum pump and during recharge you need to add oil. Mech Engineer w/25+ yrs experience. Google what you're not sure of, cause costs can add up fast if you screw it up.
You’ve been responsible for some horrible designs I’d imagine if you have time to type out a comment like this get back to work and ACTUAL MAKE THE WORLD BETTER instead of just spewing basic level knowledge that the content creator is going over anyway.
"Keep in mind, if your system has lost all volume, you'll need a vacuum pump and during recharge you need to add oil." Can you elaborate in regard to the addition of oil in the case of system being completely empty? I am no a/c expert by any means just trying to grasp all concepts and tips before giving this a shot. I am assuming you are referring to the system completely running out of freon when you say lost all volume?
Thanks! You helped me more than I can express. This troubleshooting video is the best I have seen on youtube. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you for teaching me. My AC works now after applying your lesson and replacing my expansion valve. I wish I could give you more than $2, but youtube only allow this small amount. Again thank you
Man I love this explanation of a automotive A/C system! Makes so much sense in such a simple way. I feel a little bit silly now because all of us in tech class were totally scratching our heads at first when they first explained A/C systems to us 😅
THE BEST video I have ever seen describing air conditioning. A refrigeration mechanic told me one time you must understand latent heat evaporation to understand an air conditioning system...then he took about an hour to explain what this guy did in 30 seconds....GREAT VIDEO.
0:00 Thanks for a very well explained tutorial, with excellent pointers! Just one thing mentioned by another follower to remember: If you are working on a system that still has refrigerant in it and you do not have a vacuum pump, you still need to purge the blue low pressure line and the red high pressure line besides the obvious yellow hose, before testing the system (for pressures with the gauges). You can do that after hooking up the lines to your car's A/C system per Repair Geek's instructions by very quickly backing off and hand re-tightening the fitting of each hooked up line on the side of the manifold which holds the gauges. You will loose a very small amount of refrigerant from your car's system, but you will ensure the blue and red hoses are free of air and moisture. Otherwise a vacuum pump shoud be used as shown by Repair Geek. Thanks to John!
The clearest most concise explanation of auto a/c systems and diagnosis I have seen. I would add that not all compressors use a clutch to engage/disengage and appear to be always running. Find out what type you have first before trying to diagnose.
I’m getting ready to do may ase hvac test. Out of all the video I have watched, this one if by far one of the best. It’s straight forward and gives clear explanations on pressures
Happened across this channel to help mw with my AC. First thank you!. All I can say is this the best videos I've watched. He does not use jargon useless to the layman. His approach to instruction is well laid out and easy to understand and follow. Can't wait to view more of his content.
This Is the best and most comprehensive video I've seen on this subject. Glad I watched it before connecting a manfold gauge to my syste to check the pressures!
Hey love the video am from Jamaica I just got the manifold set today.. will seek out the vacuum pump tomorrow to start a repair shop where am located I learn a lot from this video. May God bless you and your family
Worth reiterating on the electrical diagnosis portion: the compressor clutch coil draws a decent bit of current. I once ended up condemning a compressor clutch coil (and the compressor attached to it) because I didn't do a thorough enough diagnosis. Unplugged, a digital voltmeter would show 12V across the pins and I used that as my justification. It turned out that there was another connector upstream in the harness that was loose. It was making a good enough connection to support 12V at the extremely low draw that a digital voltmeter creates. But it would not pass enough current to light a test light. Repairing *that* connector resolved the issue completely.
That's the problem with using a voltmeter for diagnosis, they don't put any real load on the circuit when you check voltage. 95% of all voltage checks can be done with a test light.
I have an '87 Chevy truck that still runs R12. I picked up a half full 30lb tank of R12 from a friend. The label on the tank says to charge with the tank inverted (liquid). I know I would have to do this on the high side. I have a scale and the system takes 3.25 lbs of R12. Is this ok or should I make the switch to R134A? I'm trying to stay original.
I recently changed compressor, condenser, and expansion valve on a 2012 Ford Fusion. It got it working, but, not as cool as I expected. A month later its barely working at all. I have 80 psi on low side and 100 psi on high side, compressor kicking on intermittently. I already figured it was either the compressor or expansion valve which your outstanding video seems to confirm. Now the trick is how to diagnose between those 2 components 🤔
I'm just getting into A/C systems... Now auto A/C too. Thank you so much for this easy-to-follow tech A/C training! You take the mystery out of the repair!
I have say that i appreciate this video as a single mom I really needed someone to explain this to me thank you so mush for the time that your took out of your life to do this need you to know it’s a blessing to bump into these videos with people like you and you make a difference
Great job. If you don't have a career in the education system it ll be a waste. I have a college degree and as an inmigrant I can understand you beter that my native language and I bet you can beat any college teacher. Congrats.
Thankyou very much. This is by far the best guiding video about car AC-system fixing i have watched out of a whole bunch of other videos on the same theme. Now i got really inspired to give it a go at my own car again. Thankyou.
The most thorough and helpful video I have ever seen explaining the ac system and all the different scenarios. Just amazing. Well done. Here's my scenario... 2000 saab 9-3. 80 degrees ambient. Low side is 125lbs. High side is 125lbs while running. Replaced compressor couple years ago. Ac blows pretty cold except on extremely hot days. 90degrees plus..then it struggles to keep it really cold. I'm not understanding the equal pressures when running. Thanks a bunch. Keep up the great videos
Amazing Video. Been running into a lot of issues lately on my 2015 vehicle. Slowly but surely learning what's going on. But your video is very good. Explaining a lot more in depth than most I've seen. And I've seen a lot. Lol
Very well done video. I haven't touched automotive HVAC systems in a long time and your video had me going through a lot of, "Oh! How did I forget about that?" moments throughout watching. Thank you for the time stamps and still putting the fundamental info in this vid together. I'm subscribed.
Excellent video. Covering many aspects of common problems. When diagnosing AC issues can be difficult. Because there’s many variables between manufacturers. Like GM has a common condenser leak that occurs. A simple dye test, and a UV light can also help you find leaks. Would make a great future video explaining the process of doing dye testing for leaks. Keep up the amazing work young man!!!
EXCELLENT VIDEO. I appreciate especially your comments about the STOP LEAK ( '...best to use it once only ...) ! Great advice, you get right to the point without extra chatter or heavy metal music in the background- no kidding a couple of vids have that !! Looking forward to more. Thank you...
My wifes car we recovered the freon. Found it to be about a 1.5 lbs low. Weve owned the car for about 8 years and never had it serviced before. Charged the system with a known good charge to specs. Now it cools for about 15 minutes. Gauges will show about 60 on the low and 280 on the high. Ambient temp is 90-95ish. After 20- 25ish minutes the low side will show low at 35 and high side low at 185 and fluctuating as compressor engages and disengages. Thoughts?
Good job, Really enjoy your video, Have a electronic and electrical background, I haven't dealt with a c much, And I really appreciate the way you explain good job.
I didn't see anything about the pressure or temp switch. I have seen both stop a compressor from engaging. Great video on system functions and how it works
Excellent for beginners. Could you do another video that explains these new compressors that have electric control valves that adjust the swage plate. Working on diagnosis of a 2016 BMW 340i, it had a bad clutch. Now it cools for about 15 minutes then disengages the clutch. Not sure how to mechanically check the control valve to see if it's good or bad. Hi and low psi @100. Compressor not engaging, my guess is a stucked closed control valve could keep the pistons at 0% and stop refrigerant flow? Hate these CAN BUS computer controlled systems!
I have a 2015 gmc 2500hd. I replaced the condenser and expansion valve, cause the it was only blowing around 65-70* when ambient is above 85*. Vacuumed the system and recharged it with the correct amount. But the low side pressure was close to 5psi low according to the chart. Any insight?
Amazing video, only question I have and keep forgetting is when you check pressure with manifold gauges you always screw them to open or close?.. this confuses me
Great explanation on how to troubleshoot. Amazing Job!!! I got a question though: I'm getting on my gauge, High pressure on the Low side and Low pressure on the high side. I already replaced compressor (no clutch since is a hybrid) and expansion valve and still having the same issue with very weak AC (meaning not very cold) . There is no leaks in the system. Could this be a clogged evaporator coil? I want to make sure this is the cause before I start the long and tedious work of getting to the evaporator on a Prius. Appreciate if you can point me on the right direction.
Great video! I just want to point out one little detail; some systems do utilize both an expansion valve and orifice tube. It's not common, but it does exist. It's found in vehicles that have multiple evaporators, like my Ford Expedition. The front evaporator is metered by an orifice tube, while the rear evaporator is metered by an expansion valve. Just wanted to add that in case somebody has a system like that and wasn't sure why both are available when looking up parts for their vehicle.
Trying to understand the gauges better. The valves closed prevent refrigerant from going "through" to the other side AND escaping via the yellow hose, correct? Similarly, they remain closed so that when you disconnect the yellow from the vacuum you don't then lose your vacuum from the blue-yellow. Where it gets weird for me is that the gauges can register pressures with valves open or closed. I guess if I saw the plumbing I'd understand it better. Great video.
Most yellow hoses have a valve core in them , so it won't back feed as you mentioned , but it will hold a little air in when you first hook it up , so will the blue line , so i try to bleed that air off before i start my charge ..
Thanks Mike. I might locate a more detailed set of instructions for a newbie ... I'm not normally stymied by tools but the Master Cool gauge's paperwork looks oddly cryptic. Had to return it because it arrived from Amazon broken, so now I wait some more.
Question, I have a 2001 Dodge ram 1500, with the 5.9L 4x4. I have an orifice tube, not an expansion valve. That line from the condenser runs to the orifice tube, then runs to the evaporator core and then from there to the accumulator and then from there, it goes to the compressor. So my problem is the AC line coming from the orifice tube to the evaporator when the AC is on full blast there is a lot of condensation on it. Eventually it turns to ice. So any advice is appreciated.
hello!! excellent video. My brother had a hose replaced and it was not getting cold enough in the cabin, but I also noticed that not enough air was coming out of the 2 ducts on the pilot's side. Could that be the problem, the pressures at the Gates were in the correct range!!
Thanks for this video, very helpful although I do have a question... I have a 2017 KIA sportage (1234yf), I checked the pressures at 65 deg and get the following compressor off: Lside 62, Hside 98 compresson on: Lside drops to 40 (normal is 28-38), Hside climbs to 128 and holds for a sec before the compressor kicks off (normal ranges 135-154) . The compressor stays off for about 35 sec before the cycle repeats at idle. When the compressor kicks off, the cooling fan comes on for about 15 sec. Any thoughts?
Great vid, thank you! Im trying to diagnose 75° air coming through my vents. I've read small clips that getting moisture/air in the lines cam also result in normal high & low side pressures with reduced efficiency. I am one of those people who top off on an annual basis (without vacuum bleeding lines first), and have been known to use a can wuth stop leak. What do you think? Condenser looks pretty clean, but to even inspect the evap core requires removal of the entire dash, disconnecting evap and heater core, and removing the entire hvac box in my 2005 Ram truck.
Great info and video - Thanks. Question; assuming charge is low, should I use the gauges to add refrigerant (and if so, how?) or just use the little 12” hose you can get at the parts stores. I feel like those let air into the system and don’t evacuate all of the can. Also, if low side pressure is 30psi, then the refrigerant can will never empty to a pressure less than 30psi. Or, am I missing something?? Thanks!
Great video. But I'm still unsure of my issue. The compressor is taking around 3-4 minutes to kick on which I know is not right. Ambient temp is 92. Pressures are 150H 90L @1500 RPM until the compressor finally kicks on. When the compressor is running the pressures are 200H 60L @1500 RPM and starts blowing fairly cold. I appreciate any advice!
Awesome video; Thank you! 2001 Miata (R-134a) compressor runs fine, warm air out of vent Followed your procedures; low side was low, high side was ok. (10/150 psi) Miata manual says (25/180) Added refrigerant (34/250) air cooler, but still not good… Decided to follow R-134a tem/psi chart - added more refrigerant (55/350) (72° F out of vent / 97° F ambient) actually 102° around engine compartment where I’m measuring. Still not great, but better… car was running for a good 30-45 minutes. Pressures held, compressor didn’t cycle, temp held, etc. Turned engine off and stopped for lunch. Went out to take her out on the road; started up fine, but as soon as engine rpm went up I heard a sound like gas escaping (pressure relief valve?) and air temp from vents immediately got warm. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Curious question on pulling a vacuum on the a/c system. If I already have refrigerant in the system, does pulling a vacuum remove the refrigerant from the system or does it remain?
I’m a diesel technician and have dealt with AC systems in the dealership that I worked for, but not qualified for it. I recently tried fixing my own field service vehicle’s AC system, but it still doesn’t seem to work 100%. You might be familiar with the Australian and South African Isuzu Dteq and Dmax models with the cracking evaporator issue due to vibration from the engine. I bought it used so I wasn’t sure if mine was part of the problem models. I then bought a new evaporator from our local dealer before stripping the vehicle, after stripping I realised it wasn’t the issue, but fitted the part anyway as it comes with a new expansion valve as part of the unit. Upon fitment and re-gassing the system the AC pump keeps on cycling for like 15mins without switching off and I can smell the AC gas inside the cab. I can’t find any leaks and the system keeps it’s pressure after 3+ days, but I keep on smelling the gas when the AC system operates. Is there a procedure that I can do wrong ? Or is it just me searching for an issue that might not exist ? Or is it possible that there’s a safety valve that dumps the gas ? As I know that AC systems are closed systems and should the gas be low there’s a leak or another underlying issue.
I have 11yo Honda Civic. The AC gradually started to cool not as good - I never serviced it yet during these 11years. I will check the high/low pressures. I guess it will need some charge. Do you have a video or good reference how to add charge to the car AC correctly? I have a digital manifold, hoses, vacuum pump, vacuum gauge and the scale.
Im having a high psi on low side and low psi on high side. My compressor is engaged and the psi is still high on low side and low on high side. So im thinking maybe expansion valve stuck open or compressor work out
Thank you for your most informative videos. If any cold air is coming out of the vents in the car, is it fair to say that the compressor is engaging and one can eschew testing the compressor for power and ground, testing AC clutch relay, and checking the clutch itself? Is there a visual/audible test to know if the compressor is turning on and the clutch is engaging? Is there a way to remove the AC clutch relay and check it somehow with a multi-meter or that? I have a 2015 Ford Police Interceptor Utility (Police Ford Explorer) and as far as I know the drier has never been replaced. Even though some cold air is coming out of the system, do you recommend replacing the drier because it likely has expended all its desiccant since 2015? I have owned the car since 2017 and live in Nevada (desert climate) and the drier has never been replaced since I owned the vehicle. I was told that at some point (not knowing the full history of the vehicle) it is good to evacuate all the refrigerant from the AC system, use a pump to remove any air or moisture as well, and then refill the system with refrigerant. I would imagine if I am going to replace the drier, then I'd need to do all this anyway in precedence to replacing the drier?
Great information. I was looking at vaccum pumps on amazon and they range from 3 to 7.2 cfm. Is there any benefits to higher cfm orher than speed? Some are single stage and some are 2 stage? Any benefit to eirher one? Thanks
Awesome video! My 99 Silverado AC will work for like 10-15 minutes, and it doesn't blow super cold, but cold enough. But then it starts to blow warm. I shut off the ac switch for a few minutes, turn it back on, and will start to blow cold again. Some mobile mechanic quoted me $1200 to replace compressor, dryer, orifice tube, and condenser. But I want to find out what is causing this, not just change out everything just cuz all the components are over 20 years old. It blows colder at night, and doesn't cut off as much. Once in a while I can hear the AC clutch engaging and disengaging, but it doesn't do that all the time.
Question My compressor went out replaced compressor with clutch,orfus, acculator and new 134a. Flushed system and pumped held vacuum. So took all 48 oz of 134a was cooling fair sitting still drove it down the frweway temp gage in vent got to 46° very comfortable compared to 96° outside once I parked vehicle Windows up and doors closed vent turned hot. Turn vehicle off Came back out drove it up the street moving is fine but when you come to a stop goes hot again???
Hi, I accidentally took off the side cover of my 2015 Toyota hybrid Alpha.( I mistaken it for a water pump). So I now have leaked gas and oil and a 'crushed inner seal'. If I replaced that seal, will this compressor run following all your guide lines to fill oil, vacuum all air and topped back r134 refrigerant? Or just replace the whole unit?
Hi Repair Geek, First of all, Thank you for giving me this opportunity to introduce my self. My name is John and I am DIY Machinic. Now i am 2008 Nissan Rouge. The issue is that the AC System has air and I vacuumed it out and recharge, however whenever i recharge ac can, just went up the Manifold gauge to high and no cold. I checked compressor was also not working i meant the clutch. Do you know what could that be. Any help will be greatly appreciated.. This video was one of the best so far i have watched on RUclips. Thank you again.
great explanation. how would you know if you need to add oil or the system needs oil? how much would you use? can a scan tool tell you if the compressor is working in the special function?
Hi, I was sitting in line at Starbucks yesterday, ac blowing, smelled a burning rubber smell briefly, and then ac stopped blowing cold. It wasn't making any crazy noises. RUclipsd a quick video and went to a parts store just up the rode and bought a clutch relay. Installed it, hit the ac button and it let out a loud howl. The pulley turns fine and doesn't wobble. What would cause a burnt rubber smell and cause it to blowing cold? I've yet to see if clutch engages but what could the howl and burnt rubber smell be?
It's the clutch/compressor from what I've found. The pulley spins freely until the magnetic clutch plate is engaged. If it engages but fails to turn the interior of the compressor you get the howl and the friction burns the belt and the clutch will disengage again. The relay you replaced, was the fuse to keep the system safe (the auto shut off). I'm no ac guy but I think this is a more useful response than the other one you got. If I'm wrong, someone can add correction.
Been 3 months and I imagine you got it fixed by now but it sounds like your compressor locked up, causing the drive/serpentine belt to slip and burn, causing odor. If so, you need a new compressor, with a complete system flush, new drive belt. Don't be surprised if your hamonic balancer (crankshaft pully) is shot if this is a Honda. Mine fell apart a hundred miles later after this happened and I fixed the AC, but my belt originally melted off on the interstate when the lockup happened so it put some big time stress on it and ruined it. If you do have a Honda with a J Series engine, at least get the pully replaced at your next timing belt service. They gotta take it off anyway.
I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze, AC worked fine a week ago, now blows not hot but not cold air. Gauges show 115 on low and 95 on high lines. The lines don’t feel cold anywhere but my compressor is engaged? Any thoughts on this? Thank you very much
I have an 87 s-10 that my air conditioning needs to be converted over to the new style. Just trying to throw out a video idea possibly 😅. Good simple straight forward video today 👍
Great video. Quick question. I just purchased an 03 altima and the A/C isnt working. Just for curiosity sake i bought a cheap gauge and freon recharge kit and topped it up. A/C worked fine until the car warmed up and just blows hot. Would I need to purchase the gauge set for both high and low to really diagnose or would you have an idea why?
Hello my friend, thanks for this beautiful video, specially create for you to people like us. I did it, my Toyota Rav4 2011 after connecting the gauges was marking 20 in low and 130 in high, after applied r134a (1 can 12 ounces) it reached 30 in low and 180 in high, i am living in Palm Springs, the ambient temperature was 100 F. Do you think that i must add another Can? the inside temperature if my car, measuring straight in the AC vent is 41 F. i measured the temperature also in the rear seat reaching 60 F. waiting for your best advice. Thanks again.
So i Have a 2015 Mustang, Low side too high and High side low. Clutch does engage. We evacuated the system but it only had 4 oz. In it, is it possible the compressor leaked or is that somewhere else in the system?
2013 Chevy Traverse. Not cooling. Changed the ac hoses assembly to rule out leaks per mechanic. Cooled for about a month and then back to the same issue. Came back to mechanic he said you need new compressor eventho he had already checked it and confirmed its working just fine smh! He said it looks like you have full freon still so no leaks. He said the compressor clutch is engaging but its not cooling so its most likely the valve on your compressor. He recommended installing a whole new compressor kit. Could this be ideal or could the valve be replaced and possibly work?
If the compressor intermittently doesn't engage at times, but when it does, puts out perfectly cold air, what would be the possible causes? I haven't yet hooked up manifold gauges to it, and assume it's the low pressure safety cutoff, but what's odd is that it'll usually come on some time later after start up. Then it's cold as usual, and will work normally for a while, but sometimes kicking out again. Don't think it's the freeze up sensor at the evaporator since this tends to happens right at the start. If it's the clutch relay circuit that might do it, but it'd be difficult to check if the system is calling for it to come on it if it's being locked out due to one of the other sensors.
Very good information. I just have one question. What if the low pressure side is too low and the high pressure side is normal. Does that indicate a clog in the system as well?
I have a ‘03 Dodge Grand Caravan and it’s 97 outside in this heat wave. Both the low side and high side is reading around 275psi. Going by what you’ve said in the video, the compressor could be worn out, or a clogged ac condenser. Does that sound correct? I’ll replace both if I have to in this heatwave. The ac blows cold enough to keep me alive while driving with the windows up.
Also, all ac parts were replaced except the compressor and condenser. Pressure equalizes where it’s supposed to go in a few minutes when the ac and car turned off. So it’s not the expansion valve.
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R134A Gauge Set: amzn.to/3R4IGKz
Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/4awnfsF
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What about a low side normal but a high side that keeps climbing? Low line is only cold where it’s leaving condenser.
Hi Repair Greek! Could you help me repair my car ac system. Have a 2009 mazda 6 the ac was working fine until a few weeks again when it stops and blowing cold air. Checked fuse, relay and compressor clutch all are working OK. Hook up gauge without engine running on a 78 F day Low side was 85 psi, High side 85 psi. With engine running and ac on full blast, no change in readings L 85 psi H 85 psi. If fact after running engine for about 2 minutes high side temp increased to about 90 psi then I shut off engine. Don't know what to do. Please help me as I want to fix it myself. Thanks
@@williamp6595z😅😅😅😅u😅😅u😅u😅uy😅😅u😅d😅u😅d😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅do 😅😅not 😅😅
@@cardonn364this guy a beta male
Km@@williamp6595x f b c f x 😊 0:41 0:39
This is the first time ever I am watching a video that explains the basic theory behind the automotive aircon system very well explained and you are not going too fast as many others do. Congratulations and thanks a million man. keep it up.
I just bought my manifold qauge set and vacum pump. Getting ready to work on my SUV A/C for the first time in my life !! And I'm 72 years old !! Thanks for the excellent theory class on diagnosing A/C systems !! 😇
Hey old man. How'd your AC job turn out? Got that thing nice and cold I hope.
@@kylelove927 Not finished yet. I'm going to replace the reciever drier and the expansion valve. But I'm out of money this month. My A/C works fine, just as long as it's below 85 degrees fahrenheit. But here in South Carolina it's going above 90 just about every day, then my A/C produces a 60 degree temp. So I just do all my travel in the morning, and park the SUV in the afternoon. 😭😭😭
@@Crazy-about-cats 1 step at a time. Keep your head up.
The valve stems are the most common leak , right where you hook either gauge , high or low , always check them last , soapy water works for them .@@Crazy-about-cats
@@MikeSmith-nu9wt Yes I know, After I discharged the Freon into the atmosphere 😱 I put two new A/C valve cores in. 😇
You learn something new everyday. I have watched several AC videos recently and yours is the only one that said to evacuate the gauge before connecting it
Do you keep the vacuum hooked up and just close the valves before connecting hs/ls hoses?
@@MontyGee-jq6xl I did (not running) but I don't know if it is necessary
@@MontyGee-jq6xlbe sure your valves at the service ports are closed when you try pulling the vacuum, or you'll lose all your refrigerant.
Close both of the valves at the manifold gauge to isolate the yellow hose before opening the valves at the service ports.
I'd have connected the hoses to the service ports with those valves closed while drawing vacuum to check that the gauge set is not leaking while they're connected instead of connecting them after drawing vacuum.
Hi everyone I'm new to this and would love to be a DIY-er on automotive A/C....a recovery machine is too expensive for me but I can manage buying a recovery tank.....can anyone with great knowledge on this subject please help me learn how to evacuate refrigerant from my vehicle using the manifold gauge, vacuum pump and recovery tank without having to use a recovery machine? I would greatly appreciate all the help I can get thanks
A/C systems are what we call closed loop. In a perfect world, if they don't leak, but in reality as seal age leaks develop. The EASIEST for step for MOST r134 systems is just check your system pressure. No pressure, no run. Pressure switches are installed as safety devices to assure it won't run w/o the lubricant oil you spoke of. After that, if you lost pressure, you have to assume you have a leak. A UV dye is needed to locate the failed seal, then replace and recharge. If you have pressure, then proceed to troubleshoot pressure switches and relays. Always check pressure first. Low side usually needs a minimum of around 30 psi to kick on. If the overall system volume is low, it will run and then stop. This means you still have a leak, but a slow one and might be able to limp through a season with a recharge. Keep in mind, if your system has lost all volume, you'll need a vacuum pump and during recharge you need to add oil. Mech Engineer w/25+ yrs experience. Google what you're not sure of, cause costs can add up fast if you screw it up.
Excellent post
Thank you
You’ve been responsible for some horrible designs I’d imagine if you have time to type out a comment like this get back to work and ACTUAL MAKE THE WORLD BETTER instead of just spewing basic level knowledge that the content creator is going over anyway.
"Keep in mind, if your system has lost all volume, you'll need a vacuum pump and during recharge you need to add oil."
Can you elaborate in regard to the addition of oil in the case of system being completely empty? I am no a/c expert by any means just trying to grasp all concepts and tips before giving this a shot. I am assuming you are referring to the system completely running out of freon when you say lost all volume?
Thank you for taking the time to explain so well, very helpful video!🤗🇵🇷
I'm no A/C tech, but I have installed Auto A/C systems, evacuated them, charged them, etc. This video seems really thorough and well explained.
Thanks! You helped me more than I can express. This troubleshooting video is the best I have seen on youtube. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you for teaching me. My AC works now after applying your lesson and replacing my expansion valve. I wish I could give you more than $2, but youtube only allow this small amount. Again thank you
Greatly appreciated!
Man I love this explanation of a automotive A/C system! Makes so much sense in such a simple way. I feel a little bit silly now because all of us in tech class were totally scratching our heads at first when they first explained A/C systems to us 😅
THE BEST video I have ever seen describing air conditioning. A refrigeration mechanic told me one time you must understand latent heat evaporation to understand an air conditioning system...then he took about an hour to explain what this guy did in 30 seconds....GREAT VIDEO.
0:00 Thanks for a very well explained tutorial, with excellent pointers! Just one thing mentioned by another follower to remember: If you are working on a system that still has refrigerant in it and you do not have a vacuum pump, you still need to purge the blue low pressure line and the red high pressure line besides the obvious yellow hose, before testing the system (for pressures with the gauges). You can do that after hooking up the lines to your car's A/C system per Repair Geek's instructions by very quickly backing off and hand re-tightening the fitting of each hooked up line on the side of the manifold which holds the gauges. You will loose a very small amount of refrigerant from your car's system, but you will ensure the blue and red hoses are free of air and moisture. Otherwise a vacuum pump shoud be used as shown by Repair Geek.
Thanks to John!
The clearest most concise explanation of auto a/c systems and diagnosis I have seen. I would add that not all compressors use a clutch to engage/disengage and appear to be always running. Find out what type you have first before trying to diagnose.
Like Toyota rav4 2014 le
I’m getting ready to do may ase hvac test. Out of all the video I have watched, this one if by far one of the best. It’s straight forward and gives clear explanations on pressures
Happened across this channel to help mw with my AC. First thank you!. All I can say is this the best videos I've watched. He does not use jargon useless to the layman. His approach to instruction is well laid out and easy to understand and follow. Can't wait to view more of his content.
This Is the best and most comprehensive video I've seen on this subject. Glad I watched it before connecting a manfold gauge to my syste to check the pressures!
From now on i am a Car A/C specialist, Top Teacher
Hey love the video am from Jamaica I just got the manifold set today.. will seek out the vacuum pump tomorrow to start a repair shop where am located I learn a lot from this video. May God bless you and your family
Worth reiterating on the electrical diagnosis portion: the compressor clutch coil draws a decent bit of current. I once ended up condemning a compressor clutch coil (and the compressor attached to it) because I didn't do a thorough enough diagnosis. Unplugged, a digital voltmeter would show 12V across the pins and I used that as my justification.
It turned out that there was another connector upstream in the harness that was loose. It was making a good enough connection to support 12V at the extremely low draw that a digital voltmeter creates. But it would not pass enough current to light a test light. Repairing *that* connector resolved the issue completely.
That's the problem with using a voltmeter for diagnosis, they don't put any real load on the circuit when you check voltage. 95% of all voltage checks can be done with a test light.
I have an '87 Chevy truck that still runs R12. I picked up a half full 30lb tank of R12 from a friend. The label on the tank says to charge with the tank inverted (liquid). I know I would have to do this on the high side. I have a scale and the system takes 3.25 lbs of R12.
Is this ok or should I make the switch to R134A? I'm trying to stay original.
I recently changed compressor, condenser, and expansion valve on a 2012 Ford Fusion. It got it working, but, not as cool as I expected. A month later its barely working at all. I have 80 psi on low side and 100 psi on high side, compressor kicking on intermittently. I already figured it was either the compressor or expansion valve which your outstanding video seems to confirm. Now the trick is how to diagnose between those 2 components 🤔
@@ericponta9771 80 ? No wonder mfker don't work!!
This is the best explanation of this system i've heard so far. Congrats, man! Wish your channel lots of success.
I'm just getting into A/C systems... Now auto A/C too. Thank you so much for this easy-to-follow tech A/C training! You take the mystery out of the repair!
I have say that i appreciate this video as a single mom I really needed someone to explain this to me thank you so mush for the time that your took out of your life to do this need you to know it’s a blessing to bump into these videos with people like you and you make a difference
I have watched a lot of videos and got to say yours is the best. Keep up the great work my friend
Great job. If you don't have a career in the education system it ll be a waste. I have a college degree and as an inmigrant I can understand you beter that my native language and I bet you can beat any college teacher. Congrats.
Thankyou very much. This is by far the best guiding video about car AC-system fixing i have watched out of a whole bunch of other videos on the same theme. Now i got really inspired to give it a go at my own car again. Thankyou.
Thank you very much for explaining the system to a"non mechanic". Now I know where to start.
The most thorough and helpful video I have ever seen explaining the ac system and all the different scenarios. Just amazing. Well done. Here's my scenario... 2000 saab 9-3. 80 degrees ambient. Low side is 125lbs. High side is 125lbs while running. Replaced compressor couple years ago. Ac blows pretty cold except on extremely hot days. 90degrees plus..then it struggles to keep it really cold. I'm not understanding the equal pressures when running. Thanks a bunch. Keep up the great videos
Your compressor isn't building pressure or metering device is flowing too much refrigerant. TXV stuck open/orfice tube missing/has a large hole in it.
Amazing Video. Been running into a lot of issues lately on my 2015 vehicle. Slowly but surely learning what's going on. But your video is very good. Explaining a lot more in depth than most I've seen. And I've seen a lot. Lol
Very well done video. I haven't touched automotive HVAC systems in a long time and your video had me going through a lot of, "Oh! How did I forget about that?" moments throughout watching. Thank you for the time stamps and still putting the fundamental info in this vid together. I'm subscribed.
I like your approach..simple, clear and easy to understand..thanks for sharing.
Excellent video. Covering many aspects of common problems. When diagnosing AC issues can be difficult. Because there’s many variables between manufacturers. Like GM has a common condenser leak that occurs. A simple dye test, and a UV light can also help you find leaks. Would make a great future video explaining the process of doing dye testing for leaks. Keep up the amazing work young man!!!
Thanks for the idea, I'll keep that in mind if I run across a leaking system.
Excellent video, as a life long motorcycle tech I never did much with AC, but now I am retired and want to fix my own. Thanks
Excellent work helping me read the gauges and explaining possible causes for each scenario
EXCELLENT VIDEO. I appreciate especially your comments about the STOP LEAK ( '...best to use it once only ...) !
Great advice, you get right to the point without extra chatter or heavy metal music in the background- no kidding a couple of vids have that !! Looking forward to more. Thank you...
DONTever use stop leak .it dosent worl and clogs up internal scilcar gell
AWESOME video, exactly what I needed for my car, and it’s getting hot out! Thanks
Excellent Video/Tutorial on air conditioning systems and troubleshooting them. Thank you.
My wifes car we recovered the freon. Found it to be about a 1.5 lbs low. Weve owned the car for about 8 years and never had it serviced before. Charged the system with a known good charge to specs. Now it cools for about 15 minutes. Gauges will show about 60 on the low and 280 on the high. Ambient temp is 90-95ish. After 20- 25ish minutes the low side will show low at 35 and high side low at 185 and fluctuating as compressor engages and disengages. Thoughts?
Good job, Really enjoy your video, Have a electronic and electrical background, I haven't dealt with a c much, And I really appreciate the way you explain good job.
Thanks!
Greatly appreciated!
I didn't see anything about the pressure or temp switch. I have seen both stop a compressor from engaging. Great video on system functions and how it works
Excellent tutorial video, greatly appreciated. Thankyou, hi from down under. 👍
Outstanding video brother. My 2002 Camry problem was a bad AC relay as well. And it has a sight glass which I love.
Very very respect for your effort to explain thanks so much and keep going on 👍👍👍👍👍👍
I replayed your video and made an ambient temperature table as well as a Low side / High side lo-hi diagnostic chart
Any way to share?
@@MichaelPSmith-mps Just pause the video and take a picture or write down the info.
Best video on this I've seen! Great job!!
This guy is really good at explaining,keep doing it cause you are really good!my respect!
My friend, this video is amazing! Thank you so much.
Learned so much from this video. Great video, great bullet points.
And you covered the major symptoms for the most common issues.
Thanks!
Excellent for beginners. Could you do another video that explains these new compressors that have electric control valves that adjust the swage plate. Working on diagnosis of a 2016 BMW 340i, it had a bad clutch. Now it cools for about 15 minutes then disengages the clutch. Not sure how to mechanically check the control valve to see if it's good or bad. Hi and low psi @100. Compressor not engaging, my guess is a stucked closed control valve could keep the pistons at 0% and stop refrigerant flow? Hate these CAN BUS computer controlled systems!
I have a 2015 gmc 2500hd. I replaced the condenser and expansion valve, cause the it was only blowing around 65-70* when ambient is above 85*. Vacuumed the system and recharged it with the correct amount. But the low side pressure was close to 5psi low according to the chart. Any insight?
Bro this guy is smart
Thanks and keep up the great charity!
Amazing video, only question I have and keep forgetting is when you check pressure with manifold gauges you always screw them to open or close?.. this confuses me
Close
🤔..... Hmmmm
Great explanation on how to troubleshoot. Amazing Job!!! I got a question though: I'm getting on my gauge, High pressure on the Low side and Low pressure on the high side. I already replaced compressor (no clutch since is a hybrid) and expansion valve and still having the same issue with very weak AC (meaning not very cold) . There is no leaks in the system. Could this be a clogged evaporator coil? I want to make sure this is the cause before I start the long and tedious work of getting to the evaporator on a Prius. Appreciate if you can point me on the right direction.
Great video! I just want to point out one little detail; some systems do utilize both an expansion valve and orifice tube. It's not common, but it does exist. It's found in vehicles that have multiple evaporators, like my Ford Expedition. The front evaporator is metered by an orifice tube, while the rear evaporator is metered by an expansion valve. Just wanted to add that in case somebody has a system like that and wasn't sure why both are available when looking up parts for their vehicle.
Informative!! How about pressure should be when running front and and rear ac separately or both at same time?
Excellent tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Trying to understand the gauges better. The valves closed prevent refrigerant from going "through" to the other side AND escaping via the yellow hose, correct? Similarly, they remain closed so that when you disconnect the yellow from the vacuum you don't then lose your vacuum from the blue-yellow.
Where it gets weird for me is that the gauges can register pressures with valves open or closed. I guess if I saw the plumbing I'd understand it better. Great video.
You're correct on how the valves work. The gauges just read the pressure in the red and blue hoses.
Most yellow hoses have a valve core in them , so it won't back feed as you mentioned , but it will hold a little air in when you first hook it up , so will the blue line , so i try to bleed that air off before i start my charge ..
Thanks Mike. I might locate a more detailed set of instructions for a newbie ... I'm not normally stymied by tools but the Master Cool gauge's paperwork looks oddly cryptic. Had to return it because it arrived from Amazon broken, so now I wait some more.
This is a proper video. Good explanation of how things work, with diagnostic tips. Not a parts changer. Thanks.
If I did not vacuum gauge set before charging is this a huge problem?
And great video!
Question, I have a 2001 Dodge ram 1500, with the 5.9L 4x4. I have an orifice tube, not an expansion valve. That line from the condenser runs to the orifice tube, then runs to the evaporator core and then from there to the accumulator and then from there, it goes to the compressor. So my problem is the AC line coming from the orifice tube to the evaporator when the AC is on full blast there is a lot of condensation on it. Eventually it turns to ice. So any advice is appreciated.
hello!! excellent video. My brother had a hose replaced and it was not getting cold enough in the cabin, but I also noticed that not enough air was coming out of the 2 ducts on the pilot's side. Could that be the problem, the pressures at the Gates were in the correct range!!
You have an issue with the dual zone climate control not the AC. If one side is hot and the other is cold the AC isn't the problem.
@@RepairGeek thanks for your time 🙏
Thank you, this video helps me get fully understand of the AC system work in car..
Terrific explanation. And very helpful. Thank you.
Your awesome Love your work man
Thanks for this video, very helpful although I do have a question... I have a 2017 KIA sportage (1234yf), I checked the pressures at 65 deg and get the following
compressor off: Lside 62, Hside 98
compresson on: Lside drops to 40 (normal is 28-38), Hside climbs to 128 and holds for a sec before the compressor kicks off (normal ranges 135-154) . The compressor stays off for about 35 sec before the cycle repeats at idle. When the compressor kicks off, the cooling fan comes on for about 15 sec.
Any thoughts?
Good easy to understand info said very well. Thanks for sharing
Great vid, thank you! Im trying to diagnose 75° air coming through my vents. I've read small clips that getting moisture/air in the lines cam also result in normal high & low side pressures with reduced efficiency. I am one of those people who top off on an annual basis (without vacuum bleeding lines first), and have been known to use a can wuth stop leak. What do you think? Condenser looks pretty clean, but to even inspect the evap core requires removal of the entire dash, disconnecting evap and heater core, and removing the entire hvac box in my 2005 Ram truck.
Great info and video - Thanks.
Question; assuming charge is low, should I use the gauges to add refrigerant (and if so, how?) or just use the little 12” hose you can get at the parts stores. I feel like those let air into the system and don’t evacuate all of the can. Also, if low side pressure is 30psi, then the refrigerant can will never empty to a pressure less than 30psi. Or, am I missing something??
Thanks!
Great video. But I'm still unsure of my issue. The compressor is taking around 3-4 minutes to kick on which I know is not right. Ambient temp is 92. Pressures are 150H 90L @1500 RPM until the compressor finally kicks on. When the compressor is running the pressures are 200H 60L @1500 RPM and starts blowing fairly cold. I appreciate any advice!
Awesome video; Thank you!
2001 Miata (R-134a) compressor runs fine, warm air out of vent
Followed your procedures; low side was low, high side was ok. (10/150 psi) Miata manual says (25/180)
Added refrigerant (34/250) air cooler, but still not good…
Decided to follow R-134a tem/psi chart - added more refrigerant (55/350)
(72° F out of vent / 97° F ambient) actually 102° around engine compartment where I’m measuring.
Still not great, but better… car was running for a good 30-45 minutes.
Pressures held, compressor didn’t cycle, temp held, etc.
Turned engine off and stopped for lunch.
Went out to take her out on the road; started up fine, but as soon as engine rpm went up I heard a sound like gas escaping (pressure relief valve?) and air temp from vents immediately got warm.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for sharing your know-how. I really appreciated it.
How to use a allway caulk tool
If u recharge ac unit do u have to add oil again?
Curious question on pulling a vacuum on the a/c system. If I already have refrigerant in the system, does pulling a vacuum remove the refrigerant from the system or does it remain?
Excellent introduction. Thank you!
he has did a better job than most.
Thanks for this video and for making it easy to understand
I’m a diesel technician and have dealt with AC systems in the dealership that I worked for, but not qualified for it. I recently tried fixing my own field service vehicle’s AC system, but it still doesn’t seem to work 100%. You might be familiar with the Australian and South African Isuzu Dteq and Dmax models with the cracking evaporator issue due to vibration from the engine. I bought it used so I wasn’t sure if mine was part of the problem models.
I then bought a new evaporator from our local dealer before stripping the vehicle, after stripping I realised it wasn’t the issue, but fitted the part anyway as it comes with a new expansion valve as part of the unit. Upon fitment and re-gassing the system the AC pump keeps on cycling for like 15mins without switching off and I can smell the AC gas inside the cab. I can’t find any leaks and the system keeps it’s pressure after 3+ days, but I keep on smelling the gas when the AC system operates. Is there a procedure that I can do wrong ? Or is it just me searching for an issue that might not exist ? Or is it possible that there’s a safety valve that dumps the gas ? As I know that AC systems are closed systems and should the gas be low there’s a leak or another underlying issue.
I have 11yo Honda Civic. The AC gradually started to cool not as good - I never serviced it yet during these 11years. I will check the high/low pressures. I guess it will need some charge. Do you have a video or good reference how to add charge to the car AC correctly? I have a digital manifold, hoses, vacuum pump, vacuum gauge and the scale.
Im having a high psi on low side and low psi on high side. My compressor is engaged and the psi is still high on low side and low on high side. So im thinking maybe expansion valve stuck open or compressor work out
Thank you for your most informative videos.
If any cold air is coming out of the vents in the car, is it fair to say that the compressor is engaging and one can eschew testing the compressor for power and ground, testing AC clutch relay, and checking the clutch itself?
Is there a visual/audible test to know if the compressor is turning on and the clutch is engaging?
Is there a way to remove the AC clutch relay and check it somehow with a multi-meter or that?
I have a 2015 Ford Police Interceptor Utility (Police Ford Explorer) and as far as I know the drier has never been replaced. Even though some cold air is coming out of the system, do you recommend replacing the drier because it likely has expended all its desiccant since 2015? I have owned the car since 2017 and live in Nevada (desert climate) and the drier has never been replaced since I owned the vehicle.
I was told that at some point (not knowing the full history of the vehicle) it is good to evacuate all the refrigerant from the AC system, use a pump to remove any air or moisture as well, and then refill the system with refrigerant. I would imagine if I am going to replace the drier, then I'd need to do all this anyway in precedence to replacing the drier?
Great video…really well done man! 👍
Great information. I was looking at vaccum pumps on amazon and they range from 3 to 7.2 cfm. Is there any benefits to higher cfm orher than speed? Some are single stage and some are 2 stage? Any benefit to eirher one? Thanks
Awesome video! My 99 Silverado AC will work for like 10-15 minutes, and it doesn't blow super cold, but cold enough. But then it starts to blow warm. I shut off the ac switch for a few minutes, turn it back on, and will start to blow cold again. Some mobile mechanic quoted me $1200 to replace compressor, dryer, orifice tube, and condenser. But I want to find out what is causing this, not just change out everything just cuz all the components are over 20 years old. It blows colder at night, and doesn't cut off as much. Once in a while I can hear the AC clutch engaging and disengaging, but it doesn't do that all the time.
Question
My compressor went out replaced compressor with clutch,orfus, acculator and new 134a.
Flushed system and pumped held vacuum.
So took all 48 oz of 134a was cooling fair sitting still drove it down the frweway temp gage in vent got to 46° very comfortable compared to 96° outside once I parked vehicle Windows up and doors closed vent turned hot.
Turn vehicle off
Came back out drove it up the street moving is fine but when you come to a stop goes hot again???
Hi,
I accidentally took off the side cover of my 2015 Toyota hybrid Alpha.( I mistaken it for a water pump). So I now have leaked gas and oil and a 'crushed inner seal'. If I replaced that seal, will this compressor run following all your guide lines to fill oil, vacuum all air and topped back r134 refrigerant? Or just replace the whole unit?
Hi Repair Geek, First of all, Thank you for giving me this opportunity to introduce my self. My name is John and I am DIY Machinic. Now i am 2008 Nissan Rouge. The issue is that the AC System has air and I vacuumed it out and recharge, however whenever i recharge ac can, just went up the Manifold gauge to high and no cold. I checked compressor was also not working i meant the clutch. Do you know what could that be. Any help will be greatly appreciated.. This video was one of the best so far i have watched on RUclips. Thank you again.
great explanation. how would you know if you need to add oil or the system needs oil? how much would you use? can a scan tool tell you if the compressor is working in the special function?
you cannot mesure the oil leval .put right amount in when you regas
Hi, I was sitting in line at Starbucks yesterday, ac blowing, smelled a burning rubber smell briefly, and then ac stopped blowing cold. It wasn't making any crazy noises. RUclipsd a quick video and went to a parts store just up the rode and bought a clutch relay. Installed it, hit the ac button and it let out a loud howl. The pulley turns fine and doesn't wobble. What would cause a burnt rubber smell and cause it to blowing cold? I've yet to see if clutch engages but what could the howl and burnt rubber smell be?
check the back of your pants lol
It's the clutch/compressor from what I've found. The pulley spins freely until the magnetic clutch plate is engaged. If it engages but fails to turn the interior of the compressor you get the howl and the friction burns the belt and the clutch will disengage again. The relay you replaced, was the fuse to keep the system safe (the auto shut off). I'm no ac guy but I think this is a more useful response than the other one you got. If I'm wrong, someone can add correction.
Been 3 months and I imagine you got it fixed by now but it sounds like your compressor locked up, causing the drive/serpentine belt to slip and burn, causing odor. If so, you need a new compressor, with a complete system flush, new drive belt. Don't be surprised if your hamonic balancer (crankshaft pully) is shot if this is a Honda. Mine fell apart a hundred miles later after this happened and I fixed the AC, but my belt originally melted off on the interstate when the lockup happened so it put some big time stress on it and ruined it. If you do have a Honda with a J Series engine, at least get the pully replaced at your next timing belt service. They gotta take it off anyway.
Thank you for an excellent presentation!
I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze, AC worked fine a week ago, now blows not hot but not cold air. Gauges show 115 on low and 95 on high lines. The lines don’t feel cold anywhere but my compressor is engaged? Any thoughts on this?
Thank you very much
I have an 87 s-10 that my air conditioning needs to be converted over to the new style. Just trying to throw out a video idea possibly 😅. Good simple straight forward video today 👍
I would do one but I don't have anything that needs to be converted 😅
Very good, on target. Thanks
great job explaining the system i will share this with some most likely
Great video. Quick question. I just purchased an 03 altima and the A/C isnt working. Just for curiosity sake i bought a cheap gauge and freon recharge kit and topped it up. A/C worked fine until the car warmed up and just blows hot. Would I need to purchase the gauge set for both high and low to really diagnose or would you have an idea why?
looks like you have a leak..put i pin in low side port to see if you have any pressure
Thank you! Very good information
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Hello my friend, thanks for this beautiful video, specially create for you to people like us. I did it, my Toyota Rav4 2011 after connecting the gauges was marking 20 in low and 130 in high, after applied r134a (1 can 12 ounces) it reached 30 in low and 180 in high, i am living in Palm Springs, the ambient temperature was 100 F. Do you think that i must add another Can? the inside temperature if my car, measuring straight in the AC vent is 41 F. i measured the temperature also in the rear seat reaching 60 F. waiting for your best advice. Thanks again.
Great technical explanation made simple- thank you
So i Have a 2015 Mustang, Low side too high and High side low. Clutch does engage. We evacuated the system but it only had 4 oz. In it, is it possible the compressor leaked or is that somewhere else in the system?
2013 Chevy Traverse. Not cooling. Changed the ac hoses assembly to rule out leaks per mechanic. Cooled for about a month and then back to the same issue. Came back to mechanic he said you need new compressor eventho he had already checked it and confirmed its working just fine smh! He said it looks like you have full freon still so no leaks. He said the compressor clutch is engaging but its not cooling so its most likely the valve on your compressor. He recommended installing a whole new compressor kit. Could this be ideal or could the valve be replaced and possibly work?
If the compressor intermittently doesn't engage at times, but when it does, puts out perfectly cold air, what would be the possible causes? I haven't yet hooked up manifold gauges to it, and assume it's the low pressure safety cutoff, but what's odd is that it'll usually come on some time later after start up. Then it's cold as usual, and will work normally for a while, but sometimes kicking out again.
Don't think it's the freeze up sensor at the evaporator since this tends to happens right at the start.
If it's the clutch relay circuit that might do it, but it'd be difficult to check if the system is calling for it to come on it if it's being locked out due to one of the other sensors.
Check for power at the clutch when it's supposed to be running.
Very good information. I just have one question. What if the low pressure side is too low and the high pressure side is normal. Does that indicate a clog in the system as well?
Yes
So we leave the yellow line connected to the vacuum pump the entire time we are checking the gauge readings?
I have a ‘03 Dodge Grand Caravan and it’s 97 outside in this heat wave. Both the low side and high side is reading around 275psi. Going by what you’ve said in the video, the compressor could be worn out, or a clogged ac condenser. Does that sound correct? I’ll replace both if I have to in this heatwave. The ac blows cold enough to keep me alive while driving with the windows up.
Also, all ac parts were replaced except the compressor and condenser. Pressure equalizes where it’s supposed to go in a few minutes when the ac and car turned off. So it’s not the expansion valve.