How To PROPERLY Flush and Recharge A Contaminated AC System.
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- Опубликовано: 4 июн 2024
- How To PROPERLY Flush and Recharge A Contaminated AC System. In this video we are going to take a look at what it takes to clean out a contaminated A/C system. The vehicle in this video had too much oil in the system causing the high side pressures in the system to be extremely high and the low side pressures to be extremely low. The vehicle in this video was actually venting pressure out the pressure relief because the high side pressure was so high due to the amount of oil in the system. The only way to ensure the proper amount of oil is in the system is to flush out all the old oil and add the correct amount.
Proper AC system flushing requires nearly complete disassembly of the ac system. Flushing solvent needs to be ran though all the lines and the evaporator until the flushing solvent comes out clear. Things that should not be flushed are the: Compressor, Condenser, Orifice Tube or Expansion Valve, any line with a muffler, and the Receiver Dryer/Accumulator.
Tools used in this video:
Aerosol Flushing Solvent (at the minimum you'll need 2 cans): amzn.to/3CHaazN
Professional Style Flushing Canister: amzn.to/3AfnVCD
Flushing Solvent for Professional Canister: amzn.to/3dMGpTy
PAG 46 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3AGIIk4
PAG 100 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3pDHVdp
PAG 150 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3dEstLc
R134A Manifold Gauge Set & Vacuum Pump Kit: amzn.to/3AFHmWI
R134A & 1234YF Manifold Gauges: amzn.to/3T9LlCb
Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/3A8YgM0
Can Tap:amzn.to/3T7is9I
R134A Refrigerant: amzn.to/3dDPluj
1234YF Refrigerant: amzn.to/3KiejvO
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Oil type and quantity information: supercool.ac
Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
00:00 Intro
00:03 Why you would need to flush an A/C system
00:42 Why I'm flushing my A/C system
2:22 Establish what direction the refrigerant flows in.
3:30 A/C System disassembly
4:41 How to flush the A/C components
6:43 The components you CAN'T flush
11:04 Flushing my system
12:42 What A/C oil do you need?
15:09 System reassembly
15:26 How to charge the system with oil after it was flushed
19:11 Pulling a Vacuum on the A/C system
23:35 Refrigerant selection
25:55 Charging the air conditioning with refrigerant
27:47 Final manifold gauge readings
28:43 Vent temperature readings
29:22 Thanks for watching!
#acrepair #airconditioning #airconditioner
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. 
Авто/Мото
Tools used in this video:
Aerosol Flushing Solvent (at the minimum you'll need 2 cans): amzn.to/3CHaazN
Professional Style Flushing Canister: amzn.to/3AfnVCD
Flushing Solvent for Professional Canister: amzn.to/3dMGpTy
PAG 46 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3AGIIk4
PAG 100 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3pDHVdp
PAG 150 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3dEstLc
R134A Manifold Gauge Set & Vacuum Pump Kit: amzn.to/3AFHmWI
R134A & 1234YF Manifold Gauges: amzn.to/3T9LlCb
Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/3A8YgM0
Can Tap:amzn.to/3T7is9I
R134A Refrigerant: amzn.to/3dDPluj
1234YF Refrigerant: amzn.to/3KiejvO
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Oil type and quantity information: supercool.ac/
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-Click Lubricant Specification Guide.
-Enter Year, Make, Model.
Finally, someone with integrity who can actually admit he screwed up, as opposed to blaming it on someone or something else or making up some bullshit story. Then he goes in depth explaining the entire AC system. He explains what and what not to do.
Probably one of the best and informative ac videos out there. Very knowledgeable content and it shows how to do things right. I am retired ASE certified Master tech for 35 years. Could not have done this video better myself 10/10. Great job.
I am a DIYer and this removed so much of the mystery around AC systems. And your links are exceptionally thorough. Thanks, and great job!!!
For DIY'ers that might not have much of any a/c experience listen to the info in the video. Spot on and excellent info to guide you in the right direction! Nice work.
Very helpful
This is hands down the best tutorial regarding replacing AC components. God bless you for this.
Your the Man, dude. Great, informative content. You touched on every single point needed to attempt this repair. Thank you👍👍👍
out of all car a/c video yours is the most comprehensive. well done. thank you.
You may have made mistakes first time, but the man who never made a mistake never made anything.
Really good video mate 😊
Thanks for very good video! I would recommend to have shutoff valve right next to the vacuum pump in the yellow line. Without that you will have some air with moisture in the system.
Done Right...
Short and Sweet...
Most informative...
Most Educational...
Great Job on format and presentation.
NO LOUD MUSIC...
Again Great Job....
Thank you for the video. You are down to the point, straight without all the BS from other videos.... 💯
Great video, one observation :when charging with 1lb. cans, after attaching can tap and opening can tap valve to each 1lbcan it is a good idea to loosen charge hose at gauge manifold slightly to let tiny amount of refrigerant to exit to purge hose of any air that entered during attachment of refrigerant can before opening low side manifold gauge.
This manifold gauge set has a check valve in the end of the hose that connects to the refrigerant. So when I disconnect the yellow line from the vacuum pump it will hold the vacuum.
@@RepairGeek great video. But if there is a check valve in the yellow hose, then how could attaching a can to it push Freon in the other direction? Wouldn’t the check valve stop that?
It's a Schrader valve actually. That's the same valve that is in the stem of a tire. You can fill a tire and let air out of a tire using the same valve. It's the same concept here.
Hands down best explained video I've ever seen seriously thank you
Hello! It's by far the best video on AC. A few questions: why should some of the oil in a compressor with a fixed stroke go into the circuit? Like a variable lift compressor, the fixed lift compressor also has a swash plate. Both need to be lubricated. What should be lubricated in the circuit? The only moving parts in the circuit are the valves on the compressor, which do not require special lubrication, and possibly the expansion valve.
The dryer consists of a surface, for example granules, onto which moisture is absorbed. If this surface is contaminated with oil or is even covered with oil, moisture will no longer be absorbed. In my opinion, oil in the circuit is oil from the crankshaft housing which over time gets into the circuit along the pistons
Extremely HELPFUL video! Thank you!
Thank you for your thorough video. It helped me understand the process clearly.🎉
Best vid on air con flushing I’ve seen so far 👍🏻
Very good video! You touched on many points and I would recommend anyone doing this on their own research..research...research! (I learned the hard way also!)
I recently had a compressor replaced on my 2001 Buick and neglected to change the drier, condenser, orifice tube. Mistake!! Changing-out the compressor "ONLY" was a huge NO-NO.
The shop that changed it out really didn't inform of the negative aspects of everything involved. Ultimately, I ended-up doing everything (Including a flush) on my own.
Also - I was under the impression that compressor hoses (Like yours, with mufflers) were not to be flushed? Interesting. I'm glad your A/C is working!
And lastly... Thanks for not falling for all the A/C refrigerant marketing crap! Use only 134-a and don't fall for all those sealers etc. Thanks!
Outstanding Presentation, awesome details Thanks 💥
Your videos is one of the best so far, very informative, now we know one or two things extra which we don't at all, TQ
You’re the man. Thank you so much for all this information! Thankfully my shop is letting me utilize the ac machine for recovery, vacuum and recharge. Side note I also will be doing my water pump at the same time 😅
Keep posting, please!!
Hell of an intro: Today I'll be showing you how to fix an AC system that I messed up🤣
Why lie? lmao!
@@RepairGeek You have no idea how much I respect a person who can admit their own f*ckups, and then shows how they make it right.
Thank you so much , excellent video , I have the same problem of a dirty contaminated system, my car is a 2005 Ford Freestar Van, I have both expansion valve systems, because there is a thermal valve in the back, that Van has an evaporator in the back for the passengers, I cleared up many doubts with your video and I gained a lot of information, thank you very much again
Fantastic video.....great attention to detail.....much thanks to the significant amount of your time expended.
Great video, your timing was perfect. I have been trying to figure out what "sprayer" to buy.
Purge your line from your can to manifold before opening to charge. Good info on freon with leak sealer and added oil will cause nothing but problems.
The Supercool website tip is A#1. Thanks dude!
Very well done! Thanks!
Excellent content which was very helpful. Thank You
Thanks for making this video.
excellent video! Thanks a bunch!
Excellent job & video, thanks for share !!!
Extremely informative
Thank you for this! I'm currently replacing the entire AC system on my S2000 minus the hard lines. It helped to see how you were flushing your lines out and i have that exact aerosol solution you used as well. Replacing my evaporator core, expansion valve, drier, condenser, compressor, and high/low hoses. Only thing i'm keeping are the actual hard lines so I wanted to make sure I got those cleaned out properly.
Is it ok
Thanks Bud,
Good tutorial.
Well done brother!!
thanks for the very useful info handsome 😉.
I thought that surely after all that work you would measure the charge from the cans using a scale. I've always heard that using Hi/Lo pressures alone is not accurate to determine the correct amount of charge in the system. This video is a great resource to DIYers!
The car's refrigerant capacity is 34 oz. 3 cans is 36oz. I just dumped in the 3 cans and ran it. Works great.
@@RepairGeek Nice. It doesn't always work out so neatly... mine is 19oz
2 extra oz of refrigerant won't have any major side effects long term. The cooling capacity may be diminished very minutely but systems only leak over time. I was going to have more aggravation finding a scale, weighing the can, and trying to get precise over something that isn't going to cause any giant issues. If your system takes 26oz you can't put 36 in it expecting it to work correctly. I am just fortunate with the capacity of my system vs. the capacity of the cans.
If I don't have the black Gunk you're speaking of and the only problems I had was a sticking expansion valve and a bad clutch on the compressor do I need to change the condenser and muffler?
@@RepairGeekYep. The gauge set and hoses held 2 to 3 oz. that didn't get into the car.
Disfruté su presentación altamente informativa y paso a paso; aclaró muchas de mis dudas sobre los lubricantes. Me ayudará enormemente cuando recargue mi sistema. Desafortunadamente, la humedad no se puede eliminar del polietileno/polipropilenglicol aspirando, incluso durante períodos prolongados, ya que estos polímeros son extremadamente higroscópicos; La única forma es mediante tamices moleculares 3A/5A (idealmente activados a 250 C en alto vacío) o agentes secantes (CaSO4 anhidro, Na2SO4, KOH, etc.). El objetivo de la aspiración prolongada es eliminar la mayor cantidad de aire posible del sistema. Los restos de agua restantes son eliminados por el gel de sílice presente en el acumulador/secador.
Excellent video
All good,good knowledge,but one thing did not show the air purge before cracking the charging valve,may be u did but not shown Ibelieve .thanks for good demonstration.God bless u.
outstanding video
Thank you very helpful
I’m going to do this but I’m replacing the condenser and expansion valve. I’m using the can with the compressor. You are correct you cannot flush the condenser as it has very tiny offices that will clog so easily. That’s why I’m changing mine but I’m thinking I should flush with the condenser on because it has a integrated accumulator so it catches all the crap then I will flush the Line set then I will flush with compressed air with a dry filter to reduce moisture. I’m vacuuming for an hour anyway.
Pulling a vacuum not only removes moisture but removes any other non-condensables that may be in there. You can compress air, you cannot condense it. AC works on the principle of something (like refrigerant) changing state. The latent heat of evaporation and condensation is a wonderful thing.
Does vacuum the oil out of system also?
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 not typically. The oil tends to move around in a vaporus state propelled by refrigerant. Pulling a vacuum occurs at a very slow rate and thus the oil is left behind.
Great video
great video. If your AC is not working and you want to hook up an AC manifold to do some pressure measurements, should i purge the blue and red lines once I connect them to the ports or no need as air can not get into the system because it lighter than the refrigerant? please clarify if you know as I do not see anyone does that! thx
Best vodeo ever! Plus I have an 04 Mustang that I'm fairly certain I did the exact same thing! 🤣 It was my sons car and so many things were wrong with it. He decided to get a new car and I decided I could fix it. So I did. 💁🏼♀️ From the start with electrical issues to fuel issues to engine issues to vacuum issues, I fixed. It was insane. I get it running and bam! AC issues. 🥺 In the middle of the Houston summer. I feel like this is a brand new car now and soon will be cold AC! Thank you for this video! ❤️ New sub!
Firstly let me say that this is an amazing video! I've read through a lot of the comments not all of them I'll admit. What is the proper procedure if the compressor comes pre-filled with oil. I will most likely be doing exactly what you are replacing everything except for the evaporator coil so in this case all I would need to do is solve them clean and blow out the evaporator. Do the lines come clean from the manufacturers are there manufacturing oils on them? Should the new parts be cleaned pre-installation? Please and thank you
i have a 89 civic. when i first got it, all I did was vacuum the a/c, change the orings and clean out the hard lines. about 1000 miles after charging it up, the a/c compressor failed, specifically the clutch. this time around I've got a brand new drier, expansion valve, and since my compressor & evap are both serpentine type i'm going to flush them.
hopefully that makes the a/c last a good long time.
You're cool for admitting that screwed up, taking responsibility on yourself
Hello, I’m doing this whole service on sn ‘05 Subaru Outback. I have the compressor out of the car and introduced the PAG oil through the big suction port to lubricate. Did I make a mistake and had to introduce the oil through the high pressure port (smaller hole) instead? Please let me know.
Nice info. Thanks. I've wondered about the air that is in the open yellow hose when you attach the refrigerant can there. It means that air is going into the system. Is that bad, or at least not the ideal?
So basically don't waste money on flushing just replace everything
I flushed the system well (including removed Compressor), let it dry for 3-4 days, and started to put everything back. Before I was adding oil into components. I started from the Evaporator, bcs its tubes were opened for flushing and following drying process. And also you need to attach the Expansion Valve, which will close the tubes. So I measured oil PAG 100 2.25 Oz as recommended for the Evaporator in Shop Manual and started to inject it w/small plastic syringe. The Evaporator took 1.25 Oz, but then the oil started to come out, and I couldn't add anymore. Initially I injected the oil into the higher opening, when it couldn't accept anymore I tried to use the smaller bottom hole, but the oil was coming out again. So if I added only 1.25 oz into Evaporator, can I add a bit more into the Drier (by Manual I should add 1 oz)? I think to add 1.25 oz into the Drier, and a bit more then recommended into the Condenser to compensate the difference. Or it is better to add just in hoses? Thank you for your film again. It is very helpful for those who try to master a bit car AC system.
Hi i have a denso variable displacement compressor....did you say to put ALL(8oz for my entire systems) right into the compressor ? Thank you
~@1:20 on the replacing of the compressor: Someone wrote me on Amazon question, that when he put a new compressor he removed all the oil (which was there from the factory) from it, cleaned it w/Mineral Spirits, then added PAG oil. I think it makes sense, since we don't know what oil was added (and how much as a matter of fact), PAG comes in 3 variants: 46, 100, 150, which you can't mix. Now after you wash the Evaporator (really well, since you don't know what oil was there), do you need to add the same amount of new oil to that Evaporator, like you would add to a new one? Or a little bit less? Direction of the flow, is it from High to Low, or in reverse?. Thank you for your film again.
How do you add the oil to the evap when you have an expansion valve?
Just really quick- during recharge, i should keep my high coupling open and high Manifold gauge knob closed?
Gotta reccomend this video to my customers from now on, some people think i get the parts money. 😂
Absolutely perfect how-to video I greatly appreciate it!!
I do have one question You mentioned that the Ford compressor already comes with oil in it. Why did you have to add oil to the third compressor that you put in?
I drained as much as I could so I knew how much was in the system total.
I did the very same thing…. I replaced my compressor…. It leaked so I had to buy another one. I use pressure and duct temp to charge the system…I could not understand why it wasn’t cooling nearly as well as it should (I now know The pressure was higher than normal due to excess oil in the system…and not enough refrigerant). I’m very lucky I didn’t hurt my compressor… Lesson well learned….
Idk if you’re still around on this vid since it’s over a year old but I have a question. If the compressor comes pre charged, do it still have to add pag oil to it? And if I don’t, would I just add the entire amount needed to the drier/evaporator?
nice video
so i have to break into my dash just to put the other half of the oil into the evap core? or do you mean put the oil in thru the expansion valve to the evap?
Give some good advice when using compressor air to blow lines you are adding moisture in the lines .When assembling parts back together purge system with nitrogen then vacuum until you achieve down to about 500 micron on system if you have no leaks.
hey someone here nos what to do, you are correct. people are not helping most of the time. i wish they would learn the right way and do it the right way. and u dont use soapy water , u use a special soapy water for hvac only. and if u achieve 500 u want to watch the rise next. all mechanics are so behind times with ac, cause they are not being taught correctly, and ford says 30 min and sometimes forty five and with my micron gauge lots of time i see 4000 microns and stalls,so i do a triple evac with nitrogen purge and then i can get the low micron reading .but doing it the way these guys do it they get paid and it will make it past warranty period and then some one is doing it all over again. sad sad sad.
Advice… Bleed the air from the charge hose before opening the manifold valve… maybe you did that and didn’t mention it…. or I missed it? Great and very helpful video….
I was watching for him to do it but didn't see a way on his manifold set to bleed the line other than possibly cracking the line open.
Question. If i take my car to a shop and asked them to recharge my system, do they add PAG oil back in??? I think i need more PAG oil in my system as my low pressure line snapped, lost all refridgerant and i replaced it. I'm in NYC so i dont need AC right now, but just wondering if i have to put in PAG or will the shop put it in with the recharge?
Do the driers on cars vary soo much in size and shape ? My 15 Ford Fusion looks way diffferent ( I think )
Perfectly explained
I broke my high pressure line and refrigerant leaked out completely, I replaced the line and pulled vacuum on it, but I'm not sure if or how much oil I'd need to add, or if r134 with oil will suffice. Any advice?
I had a compressor grenade in a 2009 nissan altima what components should be replaced?
Do I need to flush a new condenser? And always have to replace the expansion valve when the compresor got stuck?
I do system flushes on compressor burnouts just on a residential and commercial basis. You know your way around HVAC on automotive very well. Akron boys are a hardy stock of Irish, German and Slavic blood.
Don't pat me on the back too much. I was the guy that had too much oil in the system haha.
@@RepairGeekahh.. just a lil slugging. No biggie. 👍 Your explanation of cap tubes, fixed orifices, and txv's as a metering device on the evap coil was really good.
Great video. Simple & informative.
My only question is 'why did you not bleed air out of yellow line before opening valves to charge system? Isn't that counterproductive to pulling vacuum in the 1st place?
My manifold gauge set has a Schrader valve in the line where it attaches to the can/vacuum pump. When I disconnect the vacuum pump the vacuum is held in the line.
I added a can of gas in the system but I opened the valve all the way immediately, do you think the condenser or/and evaporator were damaged to leak?
The best video I've seen on RUclips for us diy mechanics working on the ac system. Very informative. You got a new subscriber. All the best from England. 😊👍👍
Great video. I am working on a tractor with a cab and the expansion valve is in the heater box with the evaporator and looks to be nearly imposible to get to. would it be ok to flush the whole evaporator and lines uner there and accept that there is a chance I can not get all the contaminants out. It looks like the compressor failed and I am doing the best I can afford to get it back up before hay season.
You can try it but you run the risk of running the metal contamination through the new compressor.
You really need to bleed to AIR out of your yellow hose when you connect up a refrigerant can. Every time you change a can you need to bleed to air from the hose. If you don't do that, you are adding non-condensable air to the system.
The yellow hose has a Schrader valve at the connection at the end of the hose. When I pulled vacuum on the system I also pulled vacuum on the yellow hose. The only thing that could possibly have air in it would be the can tap that was swapped from one can to another.
@@RepairGeek Your yellow hose has a Schrader valve on the inlet side? Never heard of that. My yellow hose doesn't have a Schrader in it. Your telling me that your can adapter has a pin in the end that depresses the Schrader? Mine does not have anything that would depress a Schrader.
@@thewoodcrafterioy4003 amzn.to/3E5J6dK That is my gauge set. It's right in the description.
"Red and blue conversion hoses 1/4” F x 1/2” ACME-F, yellow hose with shut-off valve 1/2” ACME-F."
@@thewoodcrafterioy4003 The fittings on the hoses are called low loss fittings. Sealed on both ends when not connected. The schrader valves can be removed for more flow, but you'll need to bleed the hoses when connecting them.
Great video. If I want to connect the AC manifold just to measure the pressure at the low and high side, should i purge these lines going to the gauges? how to do so? I have not seen anyone do that but it make sense as these lines are filled with air? thx
Use the vacuum pump to pull the lines on the gauge set into a vacuum before you connect it to the system if you're concerned.
Fantastic job. *subscribed and liked*. Three questions for you if you don't mind - you mentioned your FS10 compressor was NOT variable displacement (thus had to add half oil then half to evaporator). Ive got an 07 Expedition (Ford FS20 style compressor) also with TXV that had compressor seize so going to replace a bunch of items and flush... Mine however has a rear/aux evap core in addition to the main evaporator core. My three questions - 1) Do you happen to know if the FS20 is variable displacement (saving me time on oil re-add)... and 2) assuming its NOT variable displacement, I assume I'd add half of the oil to compressor and then split the difference on the remaining half of oil between the aux and main evaporator cores? finally 3) was there no can agitation you did while the cans were charging the system - some of the cheaper kits talk about needing to agitate/jostle the cans while charging. Again thanks for the time spent on this - excellent job!!
Thanks for the video! I have one question. I can change my compressor, TX valve, condenser. But for flushing, I will let a shop to do it. Should the flush need to be done before putting up the new parts? Or I could do it after I install the compressors and the other parts?
Flush before fitting the new parts otherwise you will send all the crap into your new condenser that you can’t flush!
Wachtend about 20 ac videos. This one is certainly the best.
If I’m replacing all components, lines and all , do I need to flush the new stuff ? The new lines and evaporator ?
real good video,well done but i think you forgot to bleeding the yellow hose before recharging the system ? or maybe the hose having a valve at that end? even if a vacuum as been done the hose as been contaminated as soon you removed it from the vacuum , somebody let me known if i am wrong i am no expert i`m just learning myself, thanks
frenchy
So what happens if you are handed a used compressor. I'm thinking to rest it in a pool of IPA, drain and repeat a few times then refill oil/dye before install
can someone help me, I need to know how much oil the compressor takes after changing the condenser, 2009 toyota rav4 4 cylinders. Thanks
We want to know the price of all flashing solvents and prices of that instrument used drain gas and moisture from air conditioning
You would make an excellent instructor at an auto tech school
Please how oil need compressor and sistem in nissan altima 2010 2.5 four cylinder.
LET'S GO!!!🏁
I'M HERE FOR ME GRAMPS! MANY CAN'T DO THIS KIND OF WORK. 😮😮😮😮😦😦
So you add the refrigerant w/the low side valve open, high side valve closed.
WHen swapping cans, you close the low side valve again. Then swap the can, then re-open the blue.
When done, that's when you start the car and have BOTH valves (high and low) open? I got lost there on the end.
Does the "recover" function on an AC machine like a RobinAir completely drain the system of oil as well as refrigerant? I assume it is not the same as performing a flush as shown here.
I am not certain, and, I think it only recovers the refrigerant.
Refrigerant
Very good info. Thank you much! I have one question and a little tip as well. First of all, what did you do to screw it up at first? If you said so in the video I missed it. A little tip. While filling up the system with the little cans, they can get very frosty and not want to vaporize and go into the system. I always have an Little bucket with nice warm water to set the can into while charging and it really helps. Tom
Too much oil by twice. Thus, he flushed to remove the oil. He replaced the dessicant, which would have some of that oil in it.
Add ref slow it will not frost up.
@@user-yj4eg3sh9f Nah, charge only liquid into the high side, engine off, into vacuum and weigh the charge. That's why there's a charge weight specified.
Wow very thorough.Please do alot more auto video repairs on anything.
Love your video! One question .. how much psi for the compress air in the evaporator? I’m scare I’ll brake it lol if the air is to strong.. 😅
You won't break it. The pressure of the refrigerant when the system is charged and not running is greater than the pressure you'll see with a home air compressor.
Curious as to what that filter at 24 seconds is on your system? Great video
That's an orifice tube.
Is it possible to DIY evacuate the lines?
Was the feed hose bled of air?