EVACUATE YOUR CAR'S AC SYSTEM THE RIGHT WAY
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- In this video I'll show you how to evacuate your car's AC system the right way. I'll be demonstrating on a BMW 435i F33, but this will work for any modern vehicle AC System.
🛠Tools Needed🛠
Recovery Tank: amzn.to/43O1xNT
AC Vacuum and Manifold Gauge Set: amzn.to/32bI5wY
Additional Yellow Hose: amzn.to/3n8Eg5o
Refrigerant Recovery Machine: amzn.to/3twzcdj
Recovery Machine Filter: amzn.to/3n3pcFS
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Chapters:
00:00 Intro
01:45 Tools Needed
02:00 Prepare the Recovery Tank
03:42 Connect the Gauges and Recovery Unit
04:50 Removing the Refrigerant
05:53 Disconnect the Gauges and Recovery Unit
06:44 Final Thoughts
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A must when working on your car's AC system 👍 🧊❄⛄❄🧊
🛠Tools Needed🛠
Recovery Tank: amzn.to/3xee9hI
AC Vacuum and Manifold Gauge Set: amzn.to/32bI5wY
Additional Yellow Hose: amzn.to/3n8Eg5o
Refrigerant Recovery Machine: amzn.to/3twzcdj
Recovery Machine Filter: amzn.to/3n3pcFS
Safety Gloves: amzn.to/3sBjCvI
Safety Glasses: amzn.to/3atpcKl
🎥 Helpful Videos 🎥
Install the CSF Performance Radiator: ruclips.net/video/ZxJ61JY2iaY/видео.html
Replace Your F-Series AC Condenser: ruclips.net/video/QIfHN4UWcIA/видео.html
How do you put refrigerant back in??
Why do you need additional vacuum pump? I thought the blue evac machine did that
I'm not sure what you've seen previously, but I had everything connected exactly how the instructions showed.
This is a great video! The guys mentioned in the comments below about purging your lines. I'm new ac stuff but something didn't quite add up with keeping moisture out of the system in the video. I think I got it now. Start from the target to be charged - Car - Ac Unit - etc. Hook up your hi and low up. Go to your manifold and open the inlet hose (not the manifold valve) to the manifold. Just crack it open and you'll see the moisture getting pushed out and close it again. I then worked my way back to recovery tank doing the same thing at every necessary 1/4" connection and I can be assured there's no moisture in the the recovery system I'm hooking up at that point. Then I proceeded with your advice on recovery. Thank you.
Over all slick presentation in the video. Keep up the good work.
Great video Steve!! Everything documented and very easy to follow!
Thanks! Glad to help! 👍
Thanks for this man I really wanted to understand what it does and you explained it perfectly
Great video, all the info I need. Thanks for uploading
Great video. Easy to follow and links for the proper tools. Thanks Fam
Glad it was helpful! 👍
I don’t know how you don’t have more subscribers because this was an awesome video and super helpful!! Will definitely be using the links you provided. God bless!
Hey thanks so much! So glad the video was helpful 👍
Hey buddy. That was one heck of a video. Really good production and he went step-by-step I know for a fact that with these tools I can do it myself and I am going to go that route.
Glad I could help! 👍
Thanks man. I got the same set up brand new in unused.
Pretty good instruction video thanks
This video is definitely helpful. But manifold purge is also a requirement in order to actually keep air out of the refrigerant tank. However, I don't think that matters if the old refrigerant will be recycled and new refrigerant will be used instead.
Excellent video. Very esy to follow and very informative. Keep up the good work!!
Thanks! 👍
Awsome vid thanks
Thank you very much for this video, really helped!!
Glad it helped! 👍
Great video! One thing I want to correct though-R-134a doesn't actually deplete ozone. In fact, that's why it is used today instead of R-12 (aka Freon), which had an Ozone Depletion Potential of 2,400 (R-11 has an ODP of 1).
The reason why you can't vent it is due to its Global Warming Potential (GWP; basically how much heat it absorbs from the sun and traps in the atmosphere). CO2 has a GWP of 1, which doesn't really tell us much because the GWP is defined based on CO2. R-134a has a GWP of 1,300, which means 1 gram of R-134a is equivalent to 1.3 kg of CO2 in terms of its effect on the greenhouse effect. One 12 oz can of R-134a has 340g of refrigerant, and venting all of that would be like releasing 442 kg of CO2, or almost half a metric ton. Roughly equal to 10% of the average car's annual CO2 emissions.
wow! Great information! Thank you!
That is very nice explanation. By any chance can you provide a reference to the source? Thank you.
If my system has leaked out R-134, do I need a recovery tank since nothing to put back in. I can then just connect gauges and vacuum
While R-134a does not have an Ozone Depletion Potential it does have a high Global Warming Potential. (GWP) The higher a GWP number the more damage the product can do towards Global Warming. These high GWP chemicals are known as Greenhouse Gases.
134a gwp is actually 1430 and r12 was 10900 (yf is 4), but the ozone part is correct. dunno the odp numbers
Great video! I need to replace my radiator & radiator mount because of a minor accident. I need to pull the condenser and this video completely and simply explained everything. Thank you again!
Glad to help! 👍
Good content ! Keep it up my man !
Thanks!
Great video this is what i needed to know to evac my 2007 honda civic to replace the condenser
Awesome! 👍
Great video men!!
Thanks! 👍
Great Video!
Thanks!
Great video excellent "infotainment".
thank you sir
Steve, at 4:55 in the video you open the valve on the recovery tank. At this point, you have not purged the hoses connected to the gauges, car and recovery unit. They will be full of air and will contaminate the refrigerant captured in the recovery tank. You need to purge both high and low side hoses of air as well as the yellow hoses going to the recovery machine and tank before opening the valve on the recovery tank.
At 5:02, when you open the valve on the recovery tank, there will be no leaks visible as the recovery machine, yellow hoses and recovery tank will be under partial vacuum. You can only check for a leak when you have opened the valve on the manifold. If you had purged the hoses then they would be under refrigerant pressure and you would be able to check for leaks before recovery.
At 5:05 you open the "blue liquid valve" on the manifold gauge set. The blue valve is not on the liquid side of the ac. It is on the vapor side. Again at 5:40 you say that the red high pressure valve is the vapor valve when it is the liquid valve.
As a final note, I would not advise people to purchase the manifold gauge set that you have used in the video. The high and low pressure ranges are more suitable for an R410A residential ac system than for a car's R134A ac system. If you look at the scale for R134A on the gauges you will see what I mean.
This is a great comment. I don't need to do ac work on my car, but great info for the future! Sometimes people should really double check their info before posting videos. Granted, the viewer should be responsible and look at more than 1 piece of info, but the creator also has a responsibility of what they're putting out.
I did my research and my ac is working perfectly. Everything in the video was done correctly. The recovery machine instructions would also agree that it was done correctly 👍
@@fthirty3 I'm afraid I agree with the comment above. You clearly know what you're doing, to an extent. But one of the most important parts of any work on AC is purging the manifold. The air contains a lot of moisture. The 3 things that create acid in an AC system are refrigerant, moisture and heat. And any moisture from the air in your manifold lines is getting in to your recovery tank a long with the refrigerant. All it takes is for that tank to get up to temperature and then that's you with a tank full of acid, depleting away and releasing all the refrigerant to the atmosphere creating a hot spot of global warming. That's not me being an environmentalist. That's you in big trouble for not knowing how to handle refrigerant correctly. Also, R134a doesn't do anything to the ozone as it doesn't contain chlorine. It contains carbon and contributes to global warming. 2 different things
@@markparkin5372 Completing Automotive Technician program in the coming months, you hit the nail on the head. I'm no expert by any means, just have always had a passion for cars as a child. Now as an adult I am pursuing entrepreneurship in opening my own one-stop-shop for all automotive needs. Now, upon completion of the a/c segment, ASE certification is obtained after study and testing. It's fairly complicated and unfortunately dangerous for your everyday casual do-it-yourself-er. The equipment needed for specific automotive refrigerants such as R134a, R1234YF, R12 Etc. varies in both specific systems and also dangers to yourself, others and the environment. This is not to be taken lightly. As Mark Parkins stated above majority of people can easily overlook a crucial step or 2 and result in catastrophic failure or disaster. None of which is worth bypassing necessary knowledge and certifications in order to backyard mechanic this particular job. I'm assuming the above commentators weren't trying to be offensive in their constructive criticism, rather, explaining potential hazards. I for one would possibly take this video down and maybe edit your voice over to include these suggested fixes, and also make known that you in no way take any form of responsibility if anyone watching this has a negative experience. That this is merely for educational purposes, and it's all done at your own risk. Also, your experience as of right now may not show any signs and may be working perfectly. It very well could be you may get several months/years before devastation hits. Also, its not guaranteed everyone else will have the same luck with their install maybe learning sooner than later. Just a little food for thought @F Thirty3 again not trying to be offensive or disrespect in anyway. Afterall, it isn't your duty to help others out by posting instructional videos yet you do it out of your own wanting which is very much appreciated and commendable. Otherwise, good job sir and I hope you continue to produce instructional videos for years to come.
@@sal92copride86 considering there are literal kids making 10 bucks an hour doing ac recharges Im going to go ahead and agree to disagree with the level of difficulty on recovering and recharging your ac system as an intensive diy project lol
Thank you so much
Glad this was helpful!
Nice video. Someone already mentioned the blue valve is the vapor side and the red is the liquid side. But I'd like to add that you should use a weighted refrigerant scale as not to overfill a tank, which would be dangerous. And since you didn't purge the lines, air will be in the tank as well as moisture. Those tanks are made of steel and moisture will degrade that tank over time. Please do not recharge your system with recovered refrigerant. Once full, take it to be recycled properly. Please explain the purpose for the moisture/contaminates filter. Most recovery machines don't come with those adding to additional costs. Thanks.
Simple and to the point. I appreciate you 🙏🏽
Thanks!
thank you for showing people the proper way and safe way to recover and charge freon without venting to atmosphere. I just had a customer show me a ChrisFix video of him opening a R134a system without recovering the system and then venting the R134a out of this manifold gauge set during the charge process. Telling the viewers "a little is ok" WTF
Glad it was helpful 👍
If you only knew how much the Govt and Elite (1% of world leaders ) are destroying our Earth (world) everyday a little but of freon is a no contest ... :) honestly speaking
Good info. Was looking up the recommended tools needed, and it's well over $800. That convinced me that it's more cost-effective to have a mechanic do it.
Exactly. This is stuff you purchase & own if you want to work on other peoples vehicle AC units for a living. For the one-time DIYer, fuggetaboutit! 😕
Everyone's situation is a little different. For me, I had no way to take my car to a mechanic for this as my coolant had already been drained and radiator removed.
Just leak it out. Fk the environment. When has the environment cared about you? Exactly.....
@@deebo2430 They don’t rent recovery machines…
Agree
Very good info here Really do appreciate your putting it together. I need to add that, and i am not sure if it is just me but (if it is apologies) is anyone else put off by music in this type of video? because it drives me to the point where i will just bail.
XD ! "Condenser is in a line of for for bugs, rocks, debris,.. when I hit the deer "
😆
A deer is definitely not stock.
Purge your air lines first or your putting air plus refrigerant into the recovery bottle.
How do you do that?
@@billyc768 just let some leak out
@@billyc768 Close the valves then turn on the vaccum, when they hit zero pressure for a while close vaccum
That was covered in a separate video. This video was only showing how to evacuate the system.
Goodnight! Congratulations, great video, I have an RG3 friend and I have a doubt there is always a little coolant in the RG3 how to reset this fluid?
Great video man! Would just like to ask if you need to put how much compressor oil back when filling in refrigerant again? Thanks
1:07 I get it, you don't need to discharge it into the air, but that is a bit over-dramatic.
That being said, great video!
Thanks! How to measure withdrawn oil quantity?
As a barging hunter, I managed to grab an older r134 recovery machine (gs200 NRP) for about $80 at a local resale shop and a tank off Facebook mkt for $10 the most expensive price of the whole repair was the compressor itself!
Great video and VERY informative!! I may have missed it but when did you open the low pressure side value on the manifold gauge that connects to the car? If you didn’t/don’t how does it drain the refrigerant when the ports closed?
That appeared to be left out.
What do you do with the tank afterwards once the recovery process has been done?
Why didn't you purge the air out of the yellow line at the tank instead of sending it into the tank? Won't this enter into the Vehicle's A/C system when you recharge it? I see some guys purge and some guys don't during the evacuation process. I know that you are supposed to purge the yellow line at the manifold gauge set when recharging. So what's the story? P.S. Other than this one issue, I agree that you did an excellent job producing this video. It is very helpful and much appreciated. Thank you Steve...
Quick question, the the process to return the gas in the car's AC the same, just working backwards?
Last three questions I swear!
1) How much oil is taken out during this process that will need to be put back in, along with the new refrigerant?
2) Is all of the oil that's removed solely coming from the compressor? Or do other components lose oil during this process as well?
3) Did you turn on the engine of your vehicle at any point during this process? (I can't tell because I can just hear you and the background music)
Thank you again!!!!
Hi Matt, you do lose oil during the process. Depending on how you choose to refill it. You may not need to add oil back in. If you reuse the refrigerant the oil should flow back in.
The oil thats lost is what is in the lines, not necessarily only from the compressor. When you replace the compressor you need to add oil directly to it as well as when you fill the system with refrigerant.
During the process I did not turn on the car. You only need to turn on the car when refilling the system. When refilling, you'll want to turn the car on and turn the A/C to max.
can u even refill it with the old stuff, because u dont even know how it was filled before, so it might have lots of moisture in it or smth ?
@@viisteist1363 I would just put new oil and Freon in it just to be safe so you know exactly how much Freon and oil is in the system, it’s not that much money.
My question too
I see video where machine separates oil. Then i think it pulls it back in when recycle freon back in
I think this machine not capable
What do you do with the tank afterwards?
I replaced the compressor (supports r134a) of my car in a local garage with a structually very similar compressor retrieved from a new model but used vehicle (supports r1234yf). The high side and low side MPa are same in both the compressor. My car's AC system supports r134a and it was regassed recently. I would like to know if while replacing the compressor, the freon was released (the mechanic just replaced the compressor) or it is still there. Also, if the new compressor contains any traces of r1234yf from previous vehicle. If so, if I should be evacuating the AC system before I regas?
Where does the pag oil that is in the freon go when using this method and how do you know how much was removed so you can add it back in?
The Robinair manual for the RG3 does not show a vapor side (blue) recovery. They specify a liquid recovery. I.e. red side
Cool video. I've been wanting to do this way but every time i recover refrigerant i accidentally leave the valve right before I walk away and it spills Oh well, someday it will happen
When recovering the Freon will the low side ever go to -30psi? Some reason mine doesn’t go all the way down.
is this the same steps you would take to put new freonn into your car?
So I got up to the point where you said "open the vapor valve on the tank" and that's a problem. If I do that the vacuum I pulled in the tank is gone and anything the machine then pulls into the tank will just vent into the atmosphere. Suggestions?
what do you do with your tanks full of refrigerant now? just hang onto it?
One of my ports schrader valve is leaking. Cant see buying all this. Will have have someone take it out.
R134A is non ozone depleting, it does however have a huge GWP factor, which is why you aren't allowed to vent it into the air.
and yet every time someone cleans their copier or camera with canned air, they're free to spray it to their hearts content 😬 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane
@@JustEnjoyingLife73 actually most dusters use 1,1 Difluoroethane, R152A which has a GWP of 124, which is 1/11th of R134A and a zero Ozone depletion rate. I realize a lot of this shit is probably more or less a scam, but still doesn’t hurt to have the facts.
@@Mooseguy15 I just googled canned air msds, so that's where I got that information from but still, that means if someone sprays 11 cans of canned air, that's like someone releasing one can of R134a, AND some canned air uses R134a or that MSDS wouldn't be out there, right? Anyway, I'm using a hydrocarbon refrigerant now, so I guess that doesn't matter as much for my case.
So my AC doesn't work at all and tried recharging it and heard hissing sound. I want to swap my condenser mainly for my transmission cooler. Do I still need to evacuate the system?
What was that red wire I seen in the background running across the car when you where install the freon in your car, does it have something to do with the machine or the AC installation process, thanks Mike God bless
Thats a cable that runs from my noco battery charger to the charging ports in the engine bay. It was keeping my battery charged while I repaired my car 👍
blue is usually Lo vapor side --- red is the Hi liquid side
can i call an AC home servicer to depressurize this car? or take it to a shop to do this before changing out the AC condenser?
Does this process pull any oil out of the system?
I'll be honest, from the minute or so I watched, it seems like your video is super helpful. My issue is that I can't stand how slowly you are narrating your video. I hope this comes off as a positive critique and not being critical of you. Thanks!
Change playback speed to 1.5 or higher
@scottpollard3270 good suggestion, I appreciate it!
That's what I do for most videos to get through them faster. It's like a habit now...
Steve, when vacuuming the Freon and oil out, does the car have to be on? And what about removing air and moisture, does this works all in one go?
Great questions. The car shouldn't be on when removing the refrigerant. You only need it running when putting it back in. You'll also need to use a vacuum pump to remove air and moisture before putting refrigerant back in if you've opened the system after replacing something. But if your you're just removing the refrigerant to put new in, then there shouldn't be any air in the system. Hopefully that makes sense.
Can you reuse that recover refrigerant again to another car?
hmmm didnt use the vacuum. im just starting out but feel like the lines should have been vacuumed out in case you want to reuse coolant or just to keep air out of your tank to reduce rust and the possibility of creating an explosive environment.
Can you rent the pump, recovery tank, and whatnot from AutoZone?
Just so people know if you had an accident already and your AC system is not cooling no more that’s probably because you didn’t put a hole in something fix the problem you don’t have to worry about draining the system because it’s already drained but you do have to vacuum make sure your system holds vacuum after that if it does for an hour or two, go ahead and put your Freon in it and you’re done Hope this helps.
I have spent weeks trying to get this all hooked up like you describe in the video, but you left some important info out. Here are some pertinent things you forgot to mention: 1) The recovery tank in your link has 1/2 inch ACME connections, but the hose you linked to has 1/4 inch SAE flare connections. So how did you hook that up without some sort of adapter? (and if you used an adapter, why didn't you mention it in your video?!) In fact I'm pretty sure we can see the adapter hooked up to your recovery tank at 6:33 of this video. 2) Not all manifolds have the same yellow hose connector sizes. Some come with 1/2 ACME on the yellow side.... and the hookups on the recovery machines (as well as the filter dryers) are almost always 1/4 SAE. It's been hell on wheels trying to get all these threaded connections identified so I can find the adapters... and even more time waiting for them to come from China/Amazon in the mail, cuz nobody seems to sell 'em locally.
Where do you go to take out the refrigerant from the recovery tank when it gets full?
It should go back into the car. Some purists will whine about this.
how do i know theres any refrigerant left in my system ? and if it is empty can i skip the first step and go right to evacuating the air out of the sytem?
Trying to fix a work truck I vac'd the system, recharged but still compressor not turning on. I checked the fuse, relay, and also showed voltage to compressor plug. So I replaced the compressor clutch thinking that was the issue but still no go. I was told the low pressure switch was replaced with a new one but jumped the plug to it anyways to test then "click" the clutch engaged and turned on the compressor. So lesson learned. Sometime new parts are defective.
It's the alternator
@@AndToTheRepublic4WhichItStands why do you say it's the alternator? I'm curious because I have the same issue in my Jeep. I replaced the low pressure switch and still the clutch won't engage
@@dontstayhome28 alternator
@@dontstayhome28 it's a joke
@@dontstayhome28 bc people always say it's the alternator. Bc it's the only car part they know lol.
Can anyone explain vapor side vs liquid side? So if you just recover using the vapor side (low side service port into vapor tank valve via the recovery machine), liquid refrigerant will still be left over on the 'high side' of the car's a/c system?
So what do you do with the tank once it's full?
Empty it back in to the system when you finish other work on the car.
Where can you take the old refrigerant that you captured in the tank?
Great question! Search your Town/ County websites. They should have a hazardous materials disposal program.
Let me start for thanking you for this video tutorial, your efforts are greatly appreciated for people like me who knows less, I have to mentions few things the first one and main one you have a lot of misinformation going here, honestly you should review the comments and re-do this video as if someone would follow it blindly will only get deeper in trouble with their system. secondly as far as "easy" I do have my reserves on that one; for the DIY like me that have never done it before it is not so easy; the special tools needed are $$; I have them already, manifold gauge and vacuum pump from Harbor Freight, got the tank , 30 pounds top yellow, body grey (not the blue one shown here which is color coded for 134a) got the Inficon vortex Dual machine ($$!!) also not shown here got a VivoHome digital scale; all the tools needed were around close to 2K!!, including the rest mentioned below so that is not easy at all for a DIY, the cheapest way still would cost close to 1K in tools along or even more! now the other things and expenses you do not mention here are parts costs; oil for the system, in my case I got 8 oz bottle of Pac 46 Supercool, O rings for the lines (O ring kit) an extra hose needed, mine is red, I got a Four Uncles AC System Flush Kit and also a pressure syringe special to inject the oil in the system. ALL this is NEEDED if you are going to service the car AC yourself and the acquisition of all and the knowledge of how to use it I wont be call that "easy" which is why it is recommended to get the car to a shop; granted, it is possible to be done at home but I feel your video here lacks the whole info as to what we will be getting into by choosing to service the car AC. I understand it is a "simple" and fast video, very well made showing the steps which by the way every manufacturer shows different in their instructions on how to use their products which creates lots of questions and confusion and then every you tuber does it differently as well which lets me wondering which step comes first and so on according to what I already have. In all fairness the more difficult part of this all is to gather what you need; I also thought I would be ok by getting the "basic" tools then my list kept growing and I was very frustrated. Now that I got everything, the scenario for my car is a 2004 Corolla which was running hot air. That was 3.5 years ago, engine is out of bay but AC system still hooked up intact; I collected and bought ALL essential parts for the system and was thinking full replacement as maintenance and parts must be close to end of service life. My original compressor fires (tested with battery) AC Relay is good and line reads 69 PSI pressure in low on 110 F, so system is possible low on freon (leak?? also got the leak detector kit), now since I even got the dashboard of the car out I got access to the evaporator which is why I was thinking full replacement; Evaporator, Condenser with Drier, Compressor and new O rings; as you can see a job like this is not easy in any degree; recovering the freon is just the starting point and to comply with legality; I should mention when quoted by local shops, what I want to do was over 2k or close to it; I have 2 old cars, this 2004 Corolla and a 2000 Tacoma which may need service one day; this is why I decided to tackle it myself and "get ready" job itself is a PITA no matter how you put it but hey "easy" now that is the spirit!!
I'm wondering if the manifold guage, vacuum pump, and recovery machine need to be specifically for vehicles or could you use the same ones that are used for home HVAC?
I see adapters requred
R22 used in houses
@@jamesconnor9142 Also R410A, but the gauges still fit both
Hello my system is empty, my compressor is already installed and unit is NOT in use.
I have been told the air needs to be bled from line before any new Freon is added
What if you have a cracked condenser you still have to flush out before removing?
Depends on if you have anything left in the system.
hey whats the song in the video?
After buying all the equipment you might as well take it to the dealership
I hope I can get an answer.
-- I have a Kia soul 2012 2.0L automatic. The compressor has been leaking a drop for some time. I tried to stop it with RTV silicone but not luck. The car has 74K miles, A/C is cooling fine, and compressor is working. Do you think I will need to replace expansion valve and Drier with 74K miles and the system working just fine?
-- I already bought a brand-new compressor (OEM), and planning for next year to change it. summer is coming and I live in the desert with 110 degrees.
I keep my car in good shape. I'm not a stupid kid keeping the car full of garbage, and never take care of their car, so now you know how my car will be.
-- I will appreciate any reply. Thank you for this video and your answers.
You don't need to replace the expansion valve. You typically should replace the drier when you are replacing the compressor.
Low side is vapour (blue) - high side (red) is the liquid
Question, How will the EPA, come knocking on your door, does the refrigerant released spell out your name in the stratosphere?
It was metaphorical. But if a neighbor or someone sees you do it and reports you, you could get fined
@@fthirty3 even after the latest supreme court ruling?
I know next to nothing but even I know you should purge lines of air or pull vacuum on them. That looks like 2 meters of air in the lines.
The machine takes care of purging the lines. I followed the instructions given by the manufacturer on how to use their machine.
can the refrigerant be re used?
Yep, just need to reverse the process
Is this what they call removing freon from the car, once this is done is it safe to remove the compressor
Yep, once you remove all the refrigerant, you can safely remove the compressor
you didn't purge the air from the hoses
I've got an AC problem I can't figure out. Could you please help me? I bought a 1990 Ford f350 diesel. The AC was not working. I found a leak in the evaporator. I changed the evaporator out and a bunch of o-rings. Then I added some oil with UV dye and pressurized the system with air using a cheap Ebay manifold set to check for leaks. I ran the truck for ten minutes. I found no more leaks. I let it sit overnight. The pressure did not go down. So I thought I was good to go. I took off the manifold set and installed a new receiver dryer. I then vacuumed down the system for an hour. Then I put 50 oz of R-134 into the system. Everything looked good. The system seemed to be working. But I got interrupted. I shut the truck off and partially closed the hood but I left the manifold set connected. I came out today and the pressure reads zero on everything. But there is no sign of refrigerant leaking out anywhere. I even waited until night and used a UV light and nothing. No sign of a leak but no pressure. I'm at a loss for what to do. It makes no sense to me.
Could be your gauge set is leaking. My hide side coupler was leaking on my set and leaking out. So I just used my low side to check vacuum and left the high side off. Vacuum held then.
wonderful VIDEO THE OZONE IS NOT DAMAGED BY REFRIGERANT THE STUFF WILL SIT IN THE AIR AND WILL DECOMPOSE IN TIME BUT WHO WANTS THAT i just dislike the KOOL AID the Government wants tell every one just to Control very interesting video thank you
Do you have to have the car running during this process. Removing freon
No, the car should be off.
If the compressor is shot, wouldn’t vacuuming out the old refrigerant before your repair, bring contaminates with it?
If there's contamination, I'd probably put in new refrigerant after everything is fixed.
@@fthirty3 yes, that’s what I will do but I’m concerned with being able to find someone that will drain my current refrigerant, knowing it’s likely contaminated…
You forgot to purge the ac lines of air when you connected then to the Robinair.
You need a real vacuum gauge to know moisture has been removed and nitrogen cylinder with regulator to run a pressure decay test.
K so how much is all this gonna cost
Where do you get the tank?
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Dos the gas turn to liquid when it's in tank?
Yes, the recovery machine is both a compressor that pressurizes the refrigerant and it runs it through a cooler so it recondenses into a liquid as it goes back in the recycle tank.
Can this process be used to recover R134a from a regular Refrigerator?
I haven't tried that, but I don't see why not
I think no ports on most refridge
Also i cant remember but different 'FREON' Uneed google again
Hey I’m parting out a car , that’s full of refrigerant . What if I just disconnect a ac line and let it out in to the air and come back to it when it’s all out ? I don’t have time or money to buy any equipment I just want to know if I let it air out how long does it stay in the air so I don’t get it in my lungs?
That's a good question. I'm not sure how long it stays in the air.
Hey, did you ever find an answer to this question? Or any advice on this route? I Got a car on the same situation
@@yassetgrullon9022 so I got some advice from someone to purge it and wrap a towel around it to keep from making a mess and having too much in the air and then throwing away the towel. Most cars have a wire connected to some sort of sensor that you can loosen up where the refrigerant can Escape wrap it and leave it for awhile to let it air out in the garage so your not there breathing that shit in
My new tank has blue knob on left labeled vapor and red knob on right labeled liquid. Also my Robinaire machine never made a knocking sound. Zero. The ac was fully charged prior to evacuation and there appeared to be none when I finished. Just wanted to pass on these details.
The big thing about recovery is cost,and epa if the right person sees you. Yes you can buy r134a in small cans,and a 30 lb is pushing 400.00 now,so if you do much ac work recovery is saving your refrigerant.
Health ... Dont vent in an enclosed area where you can inhale into lungs,reducing your capacity, senior chief in navy stressed that,and we used r12.
If you see oil on condenser you probably have no need for recovery,but new condenser,gaskets,o rings, receiver drier.....pull vacuum and charge. If you lost compressor you need to flush and dry with nitrogen.
And stay away from sealer...it damages equipment. Some shops charge double or will only replace whole system...3,000.00 sound good? What a friend told me.
R12? Convert to r134a unless you have access or can afford r12.... Need to flush and use approved oil.
The fine is 10k, but if you're doing recovery its hard to fine a diy , you're not deliberately venting.
From what I've read, r1234yf.....i have my opinion as to why its yf....its made from propane made less flammable....if anyone can clarify I'd like to know
R134a is the same thing in canned air that they use to clean cameras and copiers, 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane. If you have an R12 system, use a hydrocarbon refrigerant like Envirosafe Industrial R134a replacement refrigerant. I'm using it in my R12 converted system, and it cools so much better than R134a. Yes, definitely don't use sealant. I've been cleaning it off my orifice tube filter for years. Flushing it wouldn't even get it all out.
You have your valves mixed up- red is liquid blue is vapor
Video starts @2:02
If you're going to replace your condenser, it's no doubt cheaper to take it to a garage since all the tools you need, to legally and safely remove and store the refrigerant, are expensive to buy. I guess you can rent the equipment.
However, you can hire an AC technician to drain the refrigerant for you.
I my case I couldn't since my car was in an accident and I would have had to tow it back and forth from the shop.
@@fthirty3 Understood.
I think you get car running first then fix AC
Yes but starting at 250 a pop to drain and recharge it would pay for a cheap machine quick if you do it much
Bought everything on the link. The yellow connectors are too small for the blue tank and needed a R134 brass fitting... Dunno what size... Theen to my regular r134 gauge the yellow connector doesn't fit the drier hose and it also need a brass fitting lol 😂😂😂 and I dunno what size.... Im so screwed
small (male) is 1/4" MFL
large (female) is 1/2" ACME