A/C Leak Testing, Repair, Evac and Recharge (ANY CAR!)
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This A/C "class" will be worth sitting through for both the DIYer and the professional. Here is my A/C playlist • A/C and Cooling System...
:55 where to start with any A/C problem
3:00 visual inspection, what a leak looks like
5:40 type of refrigerant oil in a retrofitted system
8:08 how to tell if your A/C compressor is running
10:33 compressed air vs nitrogen to find a leak
14:00 locating a leak with soap/water
16:26 testing an A/C compressor without a refrigerant charge
18:50 pressure testing (max psi)
26:33 pressure decay test after leak repair
31:50 using a micron gauge for leak testing
35:46 adding oil to an A/C system
40:25 decay test with a micron gauge
48:58 charging an A/C system with 12oz cans
53:50 using hot water to charge an A/C system
55:55 in car temperature testing
58:40 what a low charge looks like on your psi gauges
1:02:22 using a sight glass to indicate charge level
1:05:31 how to remove high pressure from your gauges
1:10:44 final comments on a micron gauge (25400 microns in 1" of vacuum)
ScannerDanner Tools:
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For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
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On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
![A/C Repair Lasted One Day [What Did I Do Wrong?] - Part 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nCTgcal4N94/mqdefault.jpg)
A digital micron guage is a great insight into vacuum but pressure decay testing with digital manifold gauges at 150 to 200 psi is a more real world test. I've found many systems hold a good vacuum but can't hold a pressure test. Great video and camera work as always 👍😁
I agree. I do both tests, pressure and vacuum
25:22 Hygroscopic is the word you're looking for ( *not* hyDroscopic as many people incorrectly believe) like DOT3, DOT4, and DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
42:07 That change from 500 to 510 could be as simple as a change in ambient air temperature. Assuming linear gauge accuracy, and no built in hysteresis, it may have been actual 504.9 and increased to 505.1. So a change from 500 to 520 could be as little as 504.9 to 515.1 or as much as 495.1 to 524.9 and still show 500 to 520. All that really matters is that it's not climbing like crazy. That said, you can find cases where a system will hold a vacuum, but not pressure and vice versa - some leaks can annoyingly act like a check valve.
I've had an issue where vacuum held and pressure did not. I never got to make it right for them. It bit me in the bottom.
Wow. Learn something new everyday. I've been in the oil and gas industry for 30+ years and have always said "hydroscopic" (typically relating to ethanol.) I now see that I was incorrect. Thanks for the lesson.
So much to learn from this message but I'm totally lost i love to understand
Scanner fantastic video. Love when you realize ahh I screwed up, keeping your wits about yourself while smoothly figure out the fix. You are a slick mechanic with plenty of smarts. You may think yer a gas bag but that keeps the video exciting an myself focused on what yer putting out. I'm sure yer son is proud to have you as a dad and mentor in his life.
Your videos are always packed with information.
Thanks so much Mark!
at time stamp 29:06 i noticed your vacuum pump was a little low on pump oil. that could have had an effect on your guage readings. im only guessing. im rebuilding a/c system in my 1988 f250 5.8L truck. and my grandfather left me a suprise out in the shed from years ago. a 30 pound tank of R-12 new never used and full. . thank you for the videos and the help they provide
12:00 who remembers that scene from gone in 60 seconds ( the newer one with nick cage) where that Giant industrial cylender shot off like a rocket. I immediately thought of that when he mentioned the tank
Nice work. Your a good teacher!
DAVE VIZARD SAYS
PRECISE MEASUREMENTS ARE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GOOD MECHANICS OR GREAT MECHANICS.
How these unblemished get out send the sight glass?
Scotty on RUclips claims that compressors all leak microscopically on the spinning shaft so a well used system may only last 5 years before a recharge is necessary. I am hoping someone familiar here knows if a micron digital vacuum gauge can see such a tiny tiny leak?
That's totally false. My 2009 Silverado has never been touched and I bought it in 2012 with 24000 miles on it.
As far a checking for leaks using vacuum, even with a micron gauge, you can miss it as it only leaks under psi.
I have a video on this exact scenario on my sons Nissan 300zx
@@ScannerDanner Hey thanks. If I still have you on the line I was checking R12a recharge cans and some have dye and some don't . Same manufacturer shows 6 oz can has 1.1 lbs with dye and 6 oz can with no dye has 0.6 lbs. Some say to be careful of dye as it can be treated as oil in the system which might dilute the oil and overheat the compressor. What do you think of manufacturers or producers of coolant with dye added in the can. Can you charge an empty system using these cans or do you use only one or is it bad to begin with?
@@mrwebber35 1.1 ounces of dye? I've never seen 6 Oz cans either.
I also don't leak test with dye as it's very inaccurate in my experience. But the older R12 systems used mineral oil, so it wouldn't wash away like the R134a pag did, which is when I stopped using dye for leak testing
@@ScannerDanner NO, 12a is not R12. My fault for calling it R12a, there is no R. It is new and better than R134a as they claim it produces lower head pressure for improved cooling and is 35% more efficient than R134a refrigerants. This all-natural, non-ozone depleting refrigerant lowers compressor head pressure for improved cooling and longer component life. Can label says equivalent to 18 oz of R12 (510g) or 16oz (456g) of R134a. I believe this means adding a fraction of can will do the job. I suppose the dye additive means nothing? What do you think? I think we've just entered the later half of the 21st century.
Oh and I think the 1.1 lb rating with the dye additive compared to regular 0.6 lb rating without dye means 0.5 lbs of dye per 6 oz can.
This from Red Tek website about 12a refrigerant
System Compatibility
No retrofitting needed. RED TEK 12a is designed as a direct drop-in replacement for R-134a and R-12 substitutes. RED TEK 12a requires no significant redesigning of the refrigeration system because it is compatible with R134a, R12, metal components, compressor motor materials, mineral, and synthetic (Ester and PAG) lubricants, seals, gaskets, hoses, compressors, and O-rings.
Note: RED TEK Refrigerants and R12 Mineral Oil are not compatible with Butyl Rubber Hoses.
I get the whole point of the nitrogen charge. But when a system leaks out all of its refrigerant, isn’t it safe to say that it’s full of atmospheric air?
So what’s the real difference between charging with shop air ?
Don’t mean it as an arrogant comment, genuinely curious
Great question! Same one I've asked forever. To be honest, I just got tired of hearing about using air pressure lol and they're not wrong in saying nitrogen is better. Plus I can use higher pressures with a nitrogen bottle
@@ScannerDanner understood! Appreciate your feedback Paul!
Unless the leak is from a sudden break in a line or component like after a wreck, even a large leak will close itself as the pressure drops. Even if there is only 2-3 psi left in the system, it's enough to keep atmospheric air out.
How does this man not have 8 million subscribers. He is a fountain of knowledge and gives so much away for free. The videos are entertaining and he makes complicated things simple. The fact he has on 300k subscribers should be a crime. Keep up the fantastic work Mr. Danner and ALL who work with and help you.
Thank you!
I fully agree!!! I watch RUclips Videos while having a Beer or twelve to wind down from a busy day... This man has taught me more (In the last Year and a half) how to use my 25 years of multiple Snap On Scanner purchases and updates than any Snap On Video. Since I had to shut down my own shop 3 1/2 years ago, I am done after eventually paying off my Zeus. (Not my shop, not my Payment.) I did Purchase an Autel with it's 4 Channel Lab Scope for $4K and some Videos are easy to translate between it and his PicoScope... Kind of weird that I show up to work at a new place for me, that has been around a while, and all they have is a broken Verus Pro. 2 main Mechanics and a part time Smog Guy. My personal payment Tools are used by all daily. Meanwhile you have idiots making Videos (with as much diagnostic capabilities as a Lube Tech) with 366K Subscribers....
@@XLAND101 Blessed by this comment
Check out t lech as well, another awesome channel focused on automotive HVAC.
Plus hes really just a good dude too
I think the clear advantage of the micron gauge is to finally verify there is no moisture in the system. On a big system as you vacuum down, the liquid water quickly boils away, but there may be solid ice that doesn't sublimate as fast. The sudden drop in pressure induces a precipitous drop in temperature that can freeze some water, which will be slow to vacuum off. In that case, when you close the system off and wait, the pressure creeps up as that solid water ice sublimates to water vapour. It's a signal you need to vacuum for longer to get the rest of the water.
Correct
how much longer? what indicates long enough, or could overnight be best to be sure?
@@scottneels2628 Charge only in HOT weather.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'll wait for summer here in NZ.
Hi Paul. Great video. I am a chemist. I was told that the old R12 systems would contain traces of acid due to decomposition of dichlorodifluoromethane (R12). The PAG oils are long chain polymers made from polymerization of glycols. So the ends of these long chains have OH groups (alcohol groups). The alcohol group gets protonated from the acid and the polymer unzips and turns into sludge. By reacting the alcohol groups to make ester groups, there is no longer alcohol groups that can react with acid and the polymer (PAG) backbone stays in tact (ie, does not unzip).
I love these types of responses. Incredible amounts of detail like this is actually excite to learn! I might never use it in a work setting but learning something new is always great!
My brain went to static. 😂
Someone told you all that?
Sounds like a recipe for o-ring failure. In this case could have just been vibration. I'd like to hear your chemist approach for power steering fluid in a brake system.
@@The_RedkweenI just had brain freeze! :D
Huge respect to you for being honest and not editing them out when you made small errors, then explaining what went wrong. Then immediately explaining how to avoid those errors. We all make these silly little mistakes
Thank you!
A true teacher.
I love that... These you tubers today make it seem so easy when in fact there were a couple hundred swear words, skinned knuckles, cuts, bruises, etc
Nob
@@carlabromley8891 Any comment coming from a girl or a guy with a girl's name, especially a guy with a lady name about manly things usually holds little weight. nice try though
This dude is the epitome of a straight up professional who stays true to his backyard mechanic roots..
AC systems are one of the more tedious repairs with customers. It behooves the technician to be upfront with the customer. An older system may require lengthy diagnosis to repair, on top of costly components & book time. It can quickly turn a 120 dollar job into a 1200 dollar job. There is no room for shortcuts. If everything isn't working harmoniously, then it won't work at all. What's dreadful about the repair, is that most people don't care/notice the worn ball joint. They instantly notice the AC when they hit the button on a 90 degree day. They want it working, and working yesterday. Some will spare no expense to have it repaired. Many will question you. Be upfront before you sell the job.
Im a big fan of your teaching techniques, the way you talk to everyone, and especially your honesty! I have been learning refrigeration for 7+ years now, and I learn so much from you and every project that i do. I think your vacuum pump could possibly pull down below 100 if you let it go long enough, but that's not necassary, however, letting it run for a long time insures that the moisture is removed. I also recommend that you close and open whatever valves you are using a few times during the vacuum process, cause that lets air bubbles and moisture, that is trapped in the valves, free to be evacuated.
You will find that usually your microns will rise a lot more than on this video. As long as they don't rise past a certain point in 10 minutes, you don't have a leak. If you have a leak, they will rise quickly to infinity. I fix freezers, refrigerators, and home AC, and on the small systems I shoot for about 200 and hope it doesn't rise much past 600 in 10 minutes. I don't think I'd be too concerned if it stayed under 1000, but I would probably want to vacuum it for longer anyway. I have the same pump you used, as well as one a little bigger, and i like to leave them running for hours while i go and do something else.
Thanks again for all you do and how you do it. YOU ARE THE BEST!
Dude... I LOVE that you made errors because THAT'S exactly how we learn and to see how you correct those issues that many of us (no doubt) will create. These are the BEST videos to learn from, for this exact reason.
Excellent vid. Thanks again
Thank you so much!
I fixed my ac on my little work van earlier this spring with your tips and guidance...needed a condenser and some small stuff but everything i did i learned on this channel. Thanks for what you do 👍
Awesome! Thank you
I work for an electric company in NYC. When we perform evacs, we bring our vacuum down to under 150 microns. Our rise test is done over 30 minutes and a loss of 100 microns or less is a pass. On my truck, I've system-checked my vacuums, and I can get to 23 microns. All this means nothing in a car, but for moisture-sensitive electrical components working in the 64k to 345k volt range, it's the difference between flowing electricity and a burnout and power loss.
Con Ed gang 🫡
I think his pump had old oil in it. It should have pulled down much lower than the 500 micron he got to
I just discovered the ScannerDanner channel, and just in time. Recently, I noticed that my 2006 Honda Accord's A/C was not blowing nearly as cold as it had in the past years. At 54 years of age, I've only recently gotten over the fear of tackling some of the automotive repairs that are rarely handled in do-it-yourself/backyard repair situations. Thanks to ScannerDanner's (Paul's) great video, I will purchase an A/C manifold kit and a vacuum pump and fix the A/C problem myself. ScannerDanner (Paul), your videos are so valuable. Thanks - and please keep them coming!
Have you tackled Caliper repair? I'm wondering if i should tackle son's car which is a 2004. Im sure the components are old. should I replace both calipers or just the one that freezes up after braking (grabs and doesn't release the rotor.....at least I think
A couple quick side notes I'd like to add;
- With regard to the micron gauge, I've seen a lot of HVAC guys use a schrader on the port or a ball valve to valve off the micron gauge, and to prevent atmospheric air entering the system, they will charge until the pressure is equal to or marginally greater than atmosphere so that when they remove the micron gauge, atmospheric air can't rush in.
On the note of wasting your R134a by charging a leaking system, excluding the part where refrigerants are bloody expensive... here's what you should keep in mind with an R12, R22 or R134a system;
Luckily, unlike R12 or R22, R134a isn't a CFC, it's a HFC. therefore doesn't deplete the ozone layer. It's also not toxic either, which does mean that is safer to discharge to atmosphere... but the other impacts it has make these still a bad idea. R134a is an extremely dense gas. If discharged over a pit, it will accumulate in that pit. R134a is known as an asphyxiant, as it is capable of displacing air in the lungs and is hard to expel, so it should not be inhaled or discharged over a pit. It's also a potent greenhouse gas. These reasons combined are why you can't legally discharge an entire AC system straight to atmosphere, and you *MUST* use a recovery machine with a tank attached. Some purging is allowed for obvious reasons, as the amount of gas lost is very minimal and has no real effect environmentally.
Newer AC systems that use the R290 gas, however, can be safely discharged to atmophere, as the gas used is pure propane, which doesn't have the same effects as R134a. It's not a heavy gas, so easily disperses. R290 is also a very light hydricarbon that doesn't pose a greenhouse effect, it doesn't deplete the ozone layer either. Anyone discharging an R290 system though needs to be aware that the refrigerant is propane. it's extremely flammable, therefore should only be discharged away from sparks or open flames, and in a very well ventillated area to prevent a gas explosion.
Great tips! Thank you
Propane is still heavier than air, so it's still worth taking any precautions you would for other gases.
Well Danner I was on my way out of the industry and it didn’t end up happening I’ve been working at an independent chain shop the last couple years and they didn’t want to pay me more but want me to keep doing more work which I didn’t have a problem with at first to show them what I could do but now you know and don’t want to pay what I’m worth I was headed to a factory job and a local dealership was looking for help they are going to pay me almost 3 dollars an hour more to start and offer me all the factory training to increase my pay so it looks like I’m sticking around
As a DIYer this was a great video as usual. Your "gift of gab" just adds to the video. Thank you.
Thank you William!
Great step by step Paul for us novices on A/C diagnosis and repair. Thanks so much for sharing.
I've always been a Z fan. Had a 280z that rusted out then I bought my uncles 88 300ZX Turbo drove it to 230k miles
I have been a automechanic for over 30 years and I always learn something on your videos. Thank you and keep up the great work.
What a nightmare! O ring? Right off the bat? Easy fix? The universe is out of balance. The Gods take with ease but give with stipulations and pain. You better make it right bro! Break a bolt off in an easy to fix area. A sacrifice is demanded!
😂
A very good and humble teacher. I'm still learning the whole AC thing and you definitely just added wisdom to my small brain. Thank you.
I've always loved the system with a built-in sight glass because it'll truly tell you what condition the system is in whether you have enough for too little refrigerant even though the manifold gauge set has one
This is a shout out to other mechanics. Don't be a dick for someone asking to have his system drained. Like really what you are doing is dealing with someone who is trying to do the right thing. This guy really does not need to spend time asking around when all he could do is open the valve and release the stuff into the air. Like it is easy to rent the vacuum pump and the cans do come with a gage. Like if the guy is trying to do good for the environment and you have a recovery system just charge a nominal amount like $10 to drain the guys system. Both of you will be doing something for the environment. Way to many places will not do this.
Paul, I watched this whole video on RUclips TV ..HAVE GOT TO TELL YOU YOU ARE THE ONE OF THE VERY BEST, TEACHER EVER, YES EVER ❤️, GOD BLESS YOU FRED S. YOU DEFINITELY CARE ABOUT THIS WORLD AND DOING YOUR VERY BEST JOB !!!
Thanks so much!
Make sure you watch the follow up on this car! This went south real quick
For that car, I would've replaced the receiver/dryer. It's old and rotten, by now, and you had the system empty, anyway. You might've had drier and colder air if the receiver/drier was replaced.
Yeah I always replace the accumulator/filter dryer just cause the system is open, like you said the things are blown out after years of use. Pretty cheap insurance for most cars
FYI, after you take the hose off the vac pump and connect the hose up to the R134a you are to remove the center cap off the line set manifold and purge the hose with R134a until you see it in the site glass window. Then you can open up the low side and charge the system. Thanks for the videos!!! God Bless!!!
This is a great vid. DIYers learn a bunch. I consider myself a DIYer even though I got 100% in automotive A/C instruction during 4th year apprentice motor mechanic schooling. Use it or lose it. There is so much.
Thanks
To prevent having to remove your micron gauge find and purchase a 90° ball valve that goes between the micron gauge and the hose so that you can isolate the gauge without having to remove it
Maybe you should call your channel Scammer Danner.
I guess you got your micron gauge for free just checked Amazon $172.
I bought a brand new condenser for my 17 year old Suzuki Sx4 for $62 on Amazon. I also bought a brand new compressor with the Pag oil and all of the O-rings for the whole system for $97 from Amazon and a pressure reducing valve for $17.84 from Cardi. I would rather spend my money on all new parts then one ridiculous micron vacuum gauge that I would probably never use again. like most of the RUclipsrs good way to push products that most D.I.Y. don’t need. But your video will keep paying dividends for many years to come should help you pay for Jake’s college to finally get him out of the house and quit annoying you. Plus you get a free VGS 200 vacuum gauge.👈👀❔
Did you just like your own comment? 😂
I used to have a 280zx (same engine just older model) and it was faster than most people think they are! And super fun to drive. Enjoyed your vid!!
Ummm, Ummm, this is 2022,
How about a
" DIGITAL" TEMP - G. or use a VOLT - METER W/ the attachmt. - Wire - feat....
No pun, just saying..
But overall great "EDUCATION"
On - "A/C - HVAC " do it like
PROFESSIONAL!!! 👍👍👍👌👌
THX - YOU - SIR.....
I don't do enough A/C work these days to invest in more expensive gauges :-) but thanks!
I know people are going to say I'm a fool, but I've started converting all R12 designed systems to R152a instead of R134a. I get it out of computer duster cans with a can tap. It runs at lower pressure than R134a, and has very similar properties to R12. It's molecular weight is 66.05 g/mol vs 120.90 g/mol for R12, so a charge only uses 55 percent of the weight of R12. On most vehicles it's under 28 ounces, which is less then 2 cans. Yes it is considered semi flammable, but it does not give a flame extension or flashback in the standard test used to measure the flammability of aerosol products. It's already used in some industries, it was actually tested by the automotive industry to replace R134a but the manufactures decided to go with R1234YF. R1234YF has the exact same flammability class rating as R152a, A2 rating. They both have the same GWP rating also, at 0. You also drive around with 15-20 gallons of highly flammable gas in your vehicle, so I wouldn't worry much about 25 ounces of mildly flammable gas that's already being used in newer vehicles.
I'm with you that acidic oil in an automotive application is not a huge deal. You definitely don't want acidic oil in a house AC or commercial AC system because the acid will eat away at the windings in the compressor causing a burn out, but with an all mechanical compressor such as automotive its not near as big a deal. I worked in an AC shop for many years and we used compressed air quite a bit. A combination of a deep vacuum and the desiccant in the dryer/accumulator minimizes the chance of acidic oil a lot. Just found your channel last night and enjoying the content,
Thank you! Glad you found me. I've since switched to nitrogen, just to silence the critics lol. But I'm glad you're here and thanks for this comment!
I don't have a compressed nitrogen cylinder. I have several argon cylinders. I've always used dry compressed air to leak check in the past. I have a really great dry air system for painting. Learn something new every day, I didn't know about the acid problem with "air". I am all for doing everything I do as correctly as possible. But honestly if an AC system is at 0 psi it has atmospheric air in the system. If you replace a component and break the system it has atmospheric air in the system. But, going forward, now that I know better, I'll be using argon to leak check.
Argon is expensive as hell! N2 is a lot cheaper.
If it’s truly “DRY” how is it going to form acid in the AC system? I’m calling bullshit here. Sounds like something that relates to wet shop air and is likely very overblown by HVAC companies. If anyone has supporting literature ( not advertising) I’d be open to new information
IT'S HOT! I do A/C systems and I'm GETTING ME ONE OF THOSE micron gauge! Amazon here we come! 🤣
There is so much good old school classic basics going on here, that I thought someone might have had a Close Encounter with the Third Kind.
I might share this video as a Primer (not a primer) to my Techs at work.
Nicely done, thank you for your content and accuracy.
Thank you!
Intersting presentation.
Thank you.
best demo gauges, home charging , high/low readings, clean air safety. I've read and watched many, this was the clearest. GREAT JOB.
Thank you Brian!
😅 gas light on AC control panel? Wow..... The 80s were famous for gimmicky electronics. I had car back then that talked ... Yeah I shut that option down fast.
Right? How strange was that!
If that is your son filming, i like that you got him involved to gain the knowledge. He's helping you and learning valuable information. He's learning mechanics and videography. Nice.
It's my oldest son's car and my second born (Caleb) is my cameraman an editor. It's his full-time job these days!
Ever wonder how much R134a is released everyday just from accidents?
For sure
never rely on schrader valves to keep air from entering when under a vacuum, they're designed to hold pressure from the inside seal end and not a vacuum with air pushing in from outside, they'll easily open and allow air in. you very likely let in air when you closed the low side adapter and removed it. same for the self sealing/low loss hoses, they're all made to hold pressure, not vacuum.
you should use good ball valves to isolate things and cycle them half/part way closed a few times, as there's voids in them that hold air around the ball and that releases making the vacuum drop when cycled. it's a good idea to charge as much liquid as possible into the high side first (with engine off!) then you can close it and finish charging through low side with vehicle running.
Yep.
throttle bottle - damn, i've gotta watch the video again hahaha. i've got a set of fairly cheap ($300) gauges coming in next couple of days. i got em cuz i've gotta do my 2001 silverado & a couple of other buddies rigs. will be my first time doing AC so i've been watching a bunch of videos. can you walk me through what kind of valves to get etc.? would i install them on the end of the vacuum/high/low side hoses... like attach them to the factory ends where they install into the actual gauges or somehow replace the ends that connect to the hi/low service ports themselves? am i making sense? if you're too busy i totally understand, your comment just really interested me, thanks:) barbie
@@8barbies779 it's really not that crucial. Miniscule amounts moisture that gets in from disconnecting fittings and switching the the other cans, etc. should be absorbed by the drier.
20 microns = .000787 inches of Hg - pretty insignificant
New subscriber just think your approach is authentic and realistic and love that you dont edit out the things that make you human. You clearly have the gift of gab but also clearly understand that the more we learn the more it becomes obvious how much we dont know. Even a master in their trade will be learning with each project they do! Great content
Thank you so much and welcome to my channel! Looking forward to hearing from you more in the future
You can definitely have systems hold vacuum, but not pressure. And that can be because of the seal that's leaking--- your vacuum can pull it closed, but when there's pressure on the other side, it can push the seal away from the 'gap" at the leak again, because there's nothing there to support the seal-- at the leak. So again, a vacuum can cause a leaking seal to Reseal itself - but it only holds as long as the vacuum is there, pulling on the seal... So your leaky seal is acting as a one way valve essentially.
I was watching the show you did a year or so ago using nitrogen to find the leaks without damaging the system. So today falls right at the proper time. Thank You I have learned a lot since I discovered your channel about a year ago!
Thank you! Some additional safety things discussed in this one and then I introduce a micron gauge (first time I've used one)
I also would like to Thank You for your teaching you have a natural way to make my old mind click and I have been able to use your knowledge to help me as a 69 yr old man to keep on trying to fix my vehicles cause I don’t have extra money to pay a shop. Next is finding the leak in my 98 dodge V10 a/c unit. You truly are a God send to people such as myself and not afraid to try. I was a carpenter in my younger life and self taught
@@gregskibinski9937 glad you are here Greg and I really appreciate you. Thank you!
I don't stress about the loss of freon because where did it go during the leak? All this changing of freons to something else is ridiculous. Now it's R-1234yf. I remember when propane was used. One can limit it to the atmosphere only to a certain point I guess is what I'm saying. That's my rant for the day. lol
Propane is back. R290 is propane. It is also now being used.
The ac gas light is connected to a superheat switch. It will illuminate when the system is running and low on gas. If it's flat empty it should not illuminate after the engine is running. It will light for bulb check.
1380 meadowood hixson,tn37343 my ac is out at my house . it's fluxes hot I kneed sum miracles. JESUS BRINGS A AMRY cause because he was he wS afraid of MARINES
Please help ac is out I'm down stir didn't dru k and she got both the box fans still KY ass of hers
Watch some more AC videos and fix it yourself! Posting your address and praying to Jesus that someone is going to come bail you out isn't the right strategy in my opinion. But hey, it was worth a try I guess? I just don't think this is the way it works brother
Have u changed your vacuum oil lately ? Many times the old is dirty and the vanes can't seal .
I considering you my teacher already .. Respect your knowledge Sir.. and this is for your Son.. please tell him ... im really love that Z.. barely find a good one now.. its had alot memories on me with that Z..❤️
Great job…
Like your video…
Thanks 🙏 for all time making videos.
Unless I missed something in your math. 2 pounds is 32 oz. Not 36. I have done that conversion a few hundred times. I always learned that it is the amount of R12 times .8. You need less R134 than R12. Just sayin. You also have to remember there is a difference between vacuum and pressure. I have had some that never show a leak with a vacuum , but does with pressure.It's kinda like sucking thru a straw, then blowing 200 plus pounds of pressure in that system.
Oh I'm definitely off on my math quiet often on camera lol
@@ScannerDanner All I can say is i'm glad I never made a mistake. Thought I did once. Found out later I didn't . Anyway I was just giving you a hard time. Good job.
I worked on cars 50 plus years. Now I only do automotive AC. (Too old to work on cars anymore, still love it just too hard to get up and down anymore)
Good video, thanks
Scanner P
My last year working in the automotive world 2006, the dealership never recovered refrigerant which blew my mind. I made my guys do it right (body shop). When I left that company I called the EPA to report what was going on...they didn't give two shits about it.
I'm a fan of venting to atmosphere
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Damn dude, the first thing to do would tap and move the controls and make sure they even work. If the AC clutch is exposed and while the AC switch is on press or tap the exposed clutch and it's possible it may have been stuck.then do a relay bypass and use test leads on the clutch.
Or put psi gauges on it lol
@@ScannerDanner if you're in the middle of nowhere that would not be the first thing to do to quickly troubleshoot. Holy shit dude. Really? I thought you would be smarter than that.
@@AllFallBeforeMe 🤣 I'm not filming how to videos for people in the middle of nowhere. Also, the other checks you mentioned are fine, but you still got to put gauges on an AC system when a clutch does not engage. It's one of the first things you want to know!
Pro tip for you. Read the title of the video! It's a leak testing video, but your mad because I put gauges on it after seeing the clutch was not engaging? 🙄
Acid formation jeaporidzes seals and then loss of "these nasty refrigerants to the environment"
Thank you! Thank you! I learn so much today watching your video. You’re a great teacher!!😊😊
Your the Best , Thank you ! And.... Thank you for the link for the Micron gauge ! 😋😋😋😋😋😋😋😋
500 micron = 29.92 inchs
need to evacuate and don't have an evac machine?
take your tank and vacuum down and put in freezer 35 min get as cold as you can while you get a small trash can fill with ice after you put old vacuumed freon tank in.
now hook to car and open valve. the science is freon always goes where its cold so the colder you make that tank the more freon it will pull out.
Very helpful video, thank you, good job!
Hi Paul. I didn't do the line isolation like you did towards the end. Will that affect things down the line?. Should i redo it again or it's not a big deal?
Also like you, i didn't add the full third can. Its a complete retrofit and the system calls for 40oz of R12. Should I add the rest of the third can to get 90% of r134?
Great fix for your son. I know when my dad loaned me money he would tell me that he would jot it down on a block of ice😂
Kind of funny how Common sense goes out the window on RUclips Video comments. If that Nitrogen Bottle is not going to be fully anchored on a fixed stand, your two Tires is actually a best case scenario. That B.S. Safety Cap with a slot is not much help. The Heads and Valves are decent thickness material. That small piece of Brass protruding from the Cap to the Regulator will be a Scarier Option of Breakage. (Still full Tank Pressure) Instead of a Projectile taking off in a single direction, it is going to stay in the general area in a Death Spiral... Without the Cap, there is a more likelihood that the same tube breaking anyways. Just use common sense with these Bottles...
Good comment about protecting the atmosphere which is in trouble big time. ..says this urban refugee from Phx aka Furnace, Az
The word your looking for when something absorbs water from the air is, "Anhydrous." It's not commonly used but it is the correct word for things that absorb water from the air's humidity.
Yeah I made it all the way and i did learn how to work on the AC system. Thanks for everything !
So, If the system had PAG oil in100 in it , Could that be the reason the Oring went south or was it just old age and maybe OEM O rings ??
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I've always liked the a/c out the center vent to be in the mid 30's; and Im in Texas and your in Penn so who knows. I will say this, I cut my teeth on the Z's back in the 80's. Datsun 240z, 260z, 280z, and the 280zx Nissans all had a "design flaw" with their a/c system, the blower motor didnt blow evaporator air into the vents, instead it sucked the evaporator air into the vents, compromising the efficiency of "the cold air effect" at the vents. I dont know if Nissan fixxed that flaw for the 300z's or if they still retained it. Im guessing the flaw still existed in the 300z's otherwise your vent temps would've been about 10°F lower than what they were. I too miss the sight glass from the older cars driers - dont miss the carburetors, points, and all their stupid vacuum lines.
I had a Fiat Stilo with naturally aspirated 1.4 that claimed 90hp. It was a nightmare to drive with AC on. And I really mean a hell of a nightmare. Each time the compressor kicked in I had to give it full gas to even do anything. Now I have another Stilo, with a 1.9 JTD 115hp turbodiesel. Same car, same weight. I almost don't feel the power going down when that compressor is on. Maybe if I upshift a bit too soon, and the rpm gets below 1500, it doesn't pull as hard until the turbocharger spools up. But that's it. 90hp vs 115hp - it doesn't seem much. But as far as it goes for the torque, it's 128Nm vs 230Nm. And that makes a difference.
doing residential and commercial HVAC, what we normally look for on a micron gauge is a hold under 500... but the way it works is: water begins to boil off around 800. reach below 500 and if the numbers are bouncing around still, then its still boiling off moisture. if its not bouncing, do a hold test. the hold should AT LEAST stay below 1000 over 30min and below 800 within 5min. if it quickly jumps close to 800, just keep it on vac... even if it stops climbing after or near... if it just jumps up, u got more to boil.
You can go to auto paint supply store and get a filter for paint gun and filter out the moisture in ur compressor lines before you pressure a/c system with compressor air😊
I remember back in the day they sold a little schrader valve vent tool. It was a little metal adapter that you would screw on to schrader valve and it would allow you vent the freon into the atmosphere without removing the valve core. I guess this was before they knew how bad R12 was for the environment.
I run into the same problem when converting R22 systems to R290. Gotta change the oil, OR ELSE!
I serviced a 2000 Honda Accord v6 the other day. I charged through the low side with the car running. For some reason it seemed really difficult to charge like the freon wasnt getting sucked in. Can i use the hot water trick with the engine running? Also i found it very difficult to use the scale with the hose attached to the can almost impossible.
Danner you missed a detail on the ice water, you need to have the probe up high in the glass not down at the bottom. It’s most accurate and the 32 degrees Fahrenheit, is at nearest the top of the ice water! Small but very important detail for accuracy.
18:13 some times on an AC system with a traditional magnetic clutch, especially if the car has sat for 8-12 months and has 200,000+ miles, the clutch can be dirty and won't engage, tap the clutch face with a mallet and they usually will engage and be fine after that, if it was just a dirty lazy clutch...try the tap method before proving out the fuses/relays/climate head/wiring, etc... Great Video!!!
I’ve had one of these gauges in my eBay watch list for over a year, so as for your comment that ‘anyone can afford one’ that’s not 100% accurate, there always seems to be something that’s more important. I’m a DIY’er and don’t do this for a living 😂
….Hence I’ve had no AC for a while…. But I live in the UK so it’s not a big deal 😂
If it was me , after finding the leak and B4 opening to replace the O ring , I woulda cleaned the area .
Besides all that, I love this show and I also come back to watch it .
Good video Paul,t.. have been doing my own A/C work for years and there´s nothing to complain about,,, there are tons of videos on youtube where A/C technicians purge the lines, dont worry... also I live in the wrong country... you need a license here to buy R134a, muste be a trained A/C technician or car mechanic with A/C license to purchase refrigerant..
has gotten very strict in the last few years... so I had to switch to Hydrocarbon refrigerants
You maybe should add that modern systems are not that powerfull anymore and or the evaporator temp is regulated by TXVs or electronically controlled compressors..you will not see 40° on these systems even when everything in perfect order.. reason is gas consumption and to avoid people getting sick by blowing freezing air into their face. Also it´s hard to impossible to charge these systems by pressure.. need to charge bei weight
But the thermometer is from your grand grandfather before WW I :-)
As someone who's converted some of those old NIssans from R12 to R134, the condenser makes a big difference. If you swap the original condenser with a custom parallel flow unit designed for R134 the head pressure goes down by 30-50PSI and the thing will hit 40 no problem. The cost isn't too bad either $150 or so and the system works better than what it did with R12.
Great tip!
Hey instead of calling it a "vacuum pump" you could just call it a de-compressor 😂 then your right on two levels, you're doing the opposite of compressing and the "vacuum pump" looks just like a small air compressor.
So when you added the oil, you close (valve up) the Schrader valve on high side? Camera looked backwards. Is the gauge connector closed and opening ( pushing down)Schrader valve?
Hope you took some degreaser and cleaned up the condenser.. I am kind of anal about cleaning them as a part time detailer.. damn OCD I tell ya.
Glad I am not the only one who calls myself a dumb ass.. LOL
I didn't but I will now! 😉
Ssssooooooo many itty-bitty O-Rings & connections, smh.
Shrader-valves almost always leak.
Please please please don’t replace just one o-ring in a system that you’re already working on: just replace them all because if one is leaking it’s probably a sure bet that the others along the line are going to start leaking soon after.
I really like that micron gauge. However I use Master Cool manifold gauges, and my lines are quick connects, and do not thread at the end, so I wouldn’t be able to tie in the vacuum gauge in the same manner as you did. I wonder if Master cool makes lines and connection styles like yours so It would be possible for me to do the same thing.
Dan, you are one hell of a teacher Bravo Zulu.
Perfect audio, perfect video man.I am so impressed
Thank you! My name is Paul Danner btw 😉
I just wish some of the youth in Jamaica would just put down the gun and stop the killing and watch your videos and see how much money they could make fixing cars ..please continue doing wat you doing Mr Don im learning a lot
The idea that using shop air on an empty system to find the leaks will "cause the oil to become acidic" is illogical. If the system is already empty, that means that there is already atmospheric air in the system, so any acidifying has occurred already. I wouldn't do a test with air and then leave it in the system for any real time, but if you do it to test, and then fix what you find, you haven't caused any oil to turn acidic that wasn't already acidic. When you add some fresh oil you will reduce the overall acidity.
Only concern I have is noticing that your pump was low on oil when you fired it up at 29:13. Easy way to burn up a $100.00 pump. Look at the oil sight window. Looks low.