Here's How To Get FREEZING COLD AIR From Your Vehicle's Air Conditioning System!!
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- Here's How To Get FREEZING COLD AIR From Your Vehicle's Air Conditioning System!! I Fixed My Air Conditioning Using This Method!! #airConditioning #r134a #fixAirConditioning
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In this video I fix my 1995 GMC Suburban K1500 GMT400 air conditioning system which was just low on refrigerant. I was able to quickly recharge the system with r134a and a manifold gauge set and now have very cold air coming from the vents.
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.
00:00 Introduction
00:52 Air Conditioning Before
01:34 Manifold Gauge Set
04:34 Testing r134a Pressures
05:47 Recharging r134a System
08:44 Adding Even More r134a
12:13 Freezing Cold Air Temps
13:08 Calling It Good
14:27 Conclusion 
Авто/Мото
As an air conditioning mechanic, I think you did a really good job. I don't know what laws are in the united states, so bear with me. In Canada, you need a license to purchase real refrigerant. The stuff we can buy at a parts store, isn't "real" r134a, but a hydrocarbon cocktail (propane, isobutane, etc.) that works in r134a systems. The catch, is that the weight of the charge and system pressures are very different. The products I'm familiar with require only 40% of the systems listed weight. This leads a lot of people to overcharge their systems, which prevents the ac from cooling at all. Its actually better to under charge than to overcharge. Pressure is great for diagnosing issues, but not great for charging.
Thanks, that’s interesting.
@@1RoadGarageyou didn't show and open only the low pressure, blue doo. You didn't open the valve on the gauge red one, high pressure. Why you didn't do that?
In the US to purchase large quantities of refrigerate you need an EPA license. The small cans anyone can purchase.
@@shawnvanderdoes9823 that sounds really convenient for home mechanics who want to do it right
Lol, you will know if you overcharged it. You will find oil from that AC system leaking from your AC line seals/o-rings. Then you will need to go have the system serviced lol.
Just a tip. Turn off the recirculation system on your a/c when charging, allowing only outside air to flow through the evaporator, which will give you the true pressure readings on your manifold gauges.
If you follow this video, it shows how to introduce non-condensables into a system. Yes, air in the hoses at 0 PSI is air at 1 ATM pressure. In the USA, to work on automotive AC systems, an EPA 609 certificate is required. Purged the refrigerant line, but not the high and low side lines. One out of 3. OK. To vent much less refrigerant to the atmosphere, opening the can valve, then closing it will squeeze the air and partially replace it in the hose, then with the can valve closed, purge at the manifold. The refrigerant in the line then expands and expels the air. No need for inverting the can for this step. Gas pressure alone is enough to purge the line. Same applies to the vehicle lines. Open the high and low side connector valves and close them, then release the pressure at the manifold. The expanding refrigerant will purge the hoses. Do this with the engine off, so the low side has more than 15 PSI to compress the air in the hose, then expell the air as the refrigerant expands as the pressure in the hose is released.
Keep air out of the car AC system. It can't turn into a liquid and thus reduces efficiency and capacity. Save the environment by venting as little refrigerant as possible. Don't flow refrigerant to the atmosphere by venting it as shown in this video.
Might take a look to see where the sight glass is on the vehicle AC system. Learn how to use the sight glass in addition to your gauges for charging. Remember, if you have non-condensable gas in your system, the sight glass will always have bubbles. Only a system without air in it will be able to fully condense the refrigerant into liquid to be seen as no bubble liquid in the sight glass.
I understand that the refrigerant must be charged through the low pressure line in gas form and through the high pressure line in liquid form. It is not good to charge liquid through the low pressure line. Is that so?
@ You can charge through the high side, but only after the system has been repaired and under vacuum. Liquid can be charged by weight into the high side. If you try to put liquid or gas into the high side, the tank being lower pressure will pump out the refrigerant into the tank possibly over filling it and making an explosion hazard.
Some refrigerants are required to be added as a liquid, as blended refrigerants can be distilled by boiling off the higher vapor component first, which destroys the refrigerant glide. Look up blended refrigerants for more info.
@isettech
Reference ”In the USA, to work on automotive AC systems, an EPA 609 certificate is required”
That statement is true ONLY IF you are being compensated ($ or bartering).
“Any person who repairs or services a motor vehicle air conditioning (MVAC) system for consideration (payment or bartering) must be properly trained and certified under section 609 of the Clean Air Act by an EPA-approved program.”
@@CWK090 This is one of the many things that make me happy to live in the developing world, definitely the "free" world is not free at all, everything regulated, everything normed, everything limited, everything controlled.
And it is beyond you to comprehend why?
I sometimes get myself in trouble when I criticize RUclips posters, pointing out mistakes and things that they left out? But you need not worry, because your video is the most complete AC recharging video I have watched in the past few days! You showed all the steps. Please take this compliment, as I don't give very many!
You were soooo close! Your pressures are good, which is why it is cold air when driving around. Hook your gauges back up like you did, then raise your RPM's to 2000-2500, and watch your pressures while doing that. You'll sleep better knowing your pressures now maych the chart. They'll drop back down when your rpm's.go down.
Thank you!
@@raularteagagavia2835 the wheel as your AC system cycles on and off it’s supposed to.
Why did he need two cans if it didn't change that much pressure wise ? When do you open high side valve . I don't think I saw him open it. When do you open yellow side valve
@@connorwallace9643 You normally don't open your high side on MVAC , you just use the gauge for problem solving. As far as where your pressures should be you can look it up online and all it tells you is the weight from the factory and if your using a 30lb tank and scales you can just drop that weight in HOWEVER if I have to use small cans I normally go by Ambiant temp 82 to 90 outside and my temp gauge in the vent should be at a idling vehicle 39 to 44 is what I like but you will see some systems at 48 50 and it be 95 to 100 outside. Once I get pressure where I want per temp, I drive the car around while looking at the temp gauge. Long as temp is stable its good. Go by these steps and your good.
Hés correct about a vacuum but you can vac it down normally 10 to 12 min then add freon, if you have a leak , pull your high side service valve out and using an injector add your oil and dye, reinstall with new service port valve-replace low side to, pull vac only on low side this is so you don't suck all you dye out, vac 12 min, dump freon in.
I know long comment, but i love doing this stuff, I got license through MACS and opened up my side business at my house. I have been doing this for years and I have learned a lot
My first 3 years I had a 40 year vet I could ask question to. Been on my own 5
@@traviskelly7082 good info, thank you
Many have said this, normally what I do is purge my high side while the engine is off by cracking the red knob just a tiny bit then closing it. You leave the yellow hose disconnected. then i repeat with the process with the low side with the engine on. Then do what your purge process. During the recharge, i use a thermometer to measure the temp on the condenser near the inlet side and compare it to the temp on the high side gage. Try to get the temp on the guage to match the temp at the condenser inlet without going over. Once these are close, usually within 10 to 15 degrees, your system is full. You will note the suction line on your compressor should be condensating. This means there is cool liquid refrigerant making its way back to the compressor to help keep it cool and lubricated. Its always worked for me and kept me cool in the Florida heat. Charge volume specs never actually tune your ac system because each system is different, and it's volume capacity depends on not only manufacturing accuracy but also elevation and ambient barometric pressure. Hence a system charged in denver would need slightly less freon than a system charged in New Orleans. Always go by condenser temp to prevent overcharging.
I have been a HVAC service tech for 25 yrs the only thing I see is normal we put the straight end of the hose to the manifold and the curved end to the adapter for the service port but it works either way great job over all brother also if u idle the motor up to 1500 RPMS than set it at 42 to 44 and it should be good cause going down the road the engine is at 1500 RPMS and air moving across the condenser coil so always idle the motor up to 1500 then set the charge cause those pressures are for 1500 RPMS they will be lower at idle that’s why they look low
Can you fill an AC system using the gauges instead of using the specified quantity of R134 under the hood?? Is he saying it doesn't matter if you disregard the specified quantity?
Cause I got a car that isn't blowing super cold, but the system is sealed still after 20 years, and I was gonna evacuate the system before filling it so that way the quanitty is correct... But based on this guy's logic I can just see what the gauges are at and add however I see fit as long as the guages are in spec.
Came across your video and provided me with directions to proceed. I saved it to refer back to the information. Thanks buddy, from South Texas where we are in 100° F heat dome.
Jimmy, you've come a long way. Another good one man
I'm about to replace my entire system in my 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I bought the gauge setup and I want to do this the right way so I am here learning and this is one of the best videos I have come across so far. I really want to know more about charging a new system and removing the old refrigerant from the old. such a good job on this video thanks brother
Great video and info bro!! Hey the only thing that I would like to add is when you screw the fittings down onto your AC lines don’t screw them down all the way because they are known to break the Schrader valve that’s in your AC line so basically screw it down until you see the gauge move and maybe just a little bit turn past that and that should be good. Hope this helps.👍💯
nice bit of advice sir thank you
good advice, you only need to open it, any more will damage the fitting thank you!!!!
Very wise to stop when you did. The system is performing very well, the difference between the pressures is correct.
Yea I blew out my compressor trying to get get the pressure up to what is recommended
It's nice to see others take on something new to them. My opinion is just run it until it starts blowing warm again, otherwise you're throwing money away! If it's lasted 28 years so far, it'll probably be fine for at least several more years with the top off provided you didn't overcharge the system and hurt the compressor.
If it is leaking anywhere, it's probably leaking at the service ports and compressor seals...could try soapy water and see if you get any bubbles to avoid having to add dye, but it's probably not a big deal if it has lasted this long. Just run it until it becomes intolerable before going down the rabbit hole of parts replacement.
The video is a really good video for any DIYer to follow. I'm a DIYer I work on my Class 8 truck. Your information right on.
Jimmy I liked your video very much you explained all the processes very well.. I just finished working on my 95Chev just about the same system as yours. I only got the inside air temp down about 50* F until I drove it at freeway rpm’s then the temp came down to 45*. I was happy with that. The outside air temp was 98*.🤠
Unless you are evacuating a system or drawing a vacuum, you do not need to open the red (high) pressure valve on the manifold set. The gauge readings are irrespective of the manifold valve positions. Gauge dials read with manifold valves open or close. The valves control the flow from the yellow hose to the respective colored valve.
I just rebuilt my entire ac system l most anyway after recharging twice only to not have ac afterwards. Third time was a charm thang god. Cold ac is a blessing
Good job plain and simple now all we need to do is fix it so home owners can do this also
Can’t get much colder than that. Smart to keep it safe like you did. The beauty with these old trucks is they are simple and when they work they don’t need fixed until they break. I’d bet yours will blow cold for years to come unless the compressor fails. Good video!
Well, when it comes to automotive AC systems whether mid 90s or later vehicles, this is no different than my 2012 Jeep or my 2013 daily driver Nissan which the latter was low on refrigerant. Same procedure and now it's more comfortable driving to work in 110°F+ temps here where I live.
Great video Jimmy! Thanks for sharing
Dude, that was awesome, and AC units are always unpredictable.
But as long as it's blowing cold, you're good.
That’s what I’m thinking
You do everything perfectly sir
You did a great DIY on this one.! Thanks for the entertainment.
Excellent video... For sure will help a lot people saving money out there. To know a good and honest mechanic shop that you can trust in this days is very hard and its sad to say it.
Thank you so much for this great video. May God bless you.
hey no worries mate, as temps go up pressure will also go up, you did a great job, if it goes low again then it is time to look for a leak, if you have to recharge a 2nd time then you should vacuum the system and also add some oil but for now you are solid gold!!!
Awesome- Thanks for sharing- gonna give it a go on my vehicle
Looks good bro! Thanks!
Awesome video, this is in my near future too since the cost of doing this at the shop will be more than buying the necessary tools. Thanks✌
Awesome video, I got my 03 avalanche last year and hasn't had any AC and I have to fix this soon
Excellent Video. Thank You
You da man Jimmy, great vid as always.
Stay Coooool! LOL Yes. Many do not use the vacuum like they should. I rent it from the local big boys. There is almost always some moisture in there after the years go on. Also, I'm sure you know, but if you suspect a leak - like your cold no longer cold in a week or so, you can use that fancy multi-legged thingy to push leak dye and UV light around (night better).
BTW, save your gauges that come with some of the "rebate" canisters. You can use them on the refill cans, later.
Awesome video brother thanks
Place a fan in front of radiator that helps to simulate a driving condition it changes your pressure readings
I do the same, but like to run a little refrigerant thru the low side line to purge as well. I never open the high side at the manifold, so that is that. If the system is empty, and repairs are done, I evacuate the system with a vacuum pump for an hour, check for leaks, then add refrigerant according to the levels indicated by the manufacturer on labels under the hood, looking for, as you said, pressures to be proper with the ambient air temp, and look for cold air out. Thanks for the vid, you do it right. Cheers!
Goodwork, badass truck 💯
Great job . Thanks !
I am a pro mechanic and I think you did a fine job yes you will need better stuff to do it for a living but you did nothing wrong good job guy!!!!
Thanks!
Charging a properly evacuated system is much much simpler if using the "delta drop" procedure.
That is, at 1600 rpm, measuring the input air temperature going into the evaporator coil and the output air temp coming out while charging slowly and intermittently (to stabilize) to get the maximum temperature difference.
Thats the ONLY way of accurately determining the exact proper charge.
Also the accumulator will be warm about half way down and cold in the upper half. That tells you that theres reserve refrigerant in the system.
Youre welcome. 😁😎
I too have a GMC, it too cools better when the pressures are lower than those that a pressure chart says what they aught to be. When the pressures are brought up to the charts specification, the temp rose from around 44-46 to 52 or so. Keep the pressures slightly low for the coldest air. Rf-TN
You made it be a succes, definately but you still have to find the leak, great video.
Jimmy, could you make a video showing how to replace your coolant on your 95 suburban? I have a 1998 gmt400 truck and am planning on doing this myself soon. I always watch your videos because you are always so thorough and meticulous about everything. I assumed you already would have a video of this but when I checked and you didn’t, I figured I would ask if you’d make one if your coolant needs to be changed. Thanks either way, love the videos, from Jimmy to Jimmy👍👍
Don't get me wrong though I like your videos I like your style and I like the way you present doing your own mechanicking Air conditioning is always tricky what you doing really well job of explaining and showing what one should do thank you for that
good job for a diy'er, always stay on the cautious side and DO NOT add tooooooo much 🤠
When the weather got hot this year, my truck (a 2000 Ford F-150), also was not cooling. I found one of the Schrader valves was leaking. So, after replacing the valve, I recharged the system and it started cooling like yours.
I like those gauges, they have a port for the vacuum and the freon so you can vac and then charge with out breaking any connections,
GOOD JOB THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
I watch A lot of or videos this one you really really right
Good job, dude
Yes, this video is very entertaining. Thank you😂
Love my Harbor Freight AC gauges too.
They’re actually really nice gauges
Look at your gauges again carefully there is differant scales for different refrigerants listed on bottom sbove needle stop pin. The manifold reads 3 differnt types refrigerants. I believe your eyes are focused on the outter black numbers on gauge.
Good tutorial.
Idle your engine to at least 1500 rpm. Your pressures should get to the idea measurements. Good job and explanation!
Great job
Nice work keep it up God bless
make sure your aircon motor sometimes not engaged, if not it will not last long. thanks for your effort.
I would also check your fan. I believe this is a fan clutch vehicle and it's likely weak / needs to be replaced. That'll definitely help with your sitting still pressures
Not a pro here. But I have always only charged gas into the low side. Meaning the valve on the can is up. Tilting the can or putting it up side down will give you liquid. If you want to empty a can. Hang the can upright into a small bucket of hot water. I do the same with 30lb jugs too. Just makes the gas charge a little faster.
Over filling is worse then underfilling for ac systems you didna great job Jimmy @1Road
In america Vacuuming ac systems Standards are 10 minutes at 20 Inches Of Mercury to Boil off any water in the system if it passes 10 minutes no need to continue if it dosent then you need to do a 30 to 40 minute Vacuum Jimmy @1Road
Thank you thank you so much thank you if I can get my AC colder
I think you are awesome! Great video.
I am also a DIYer.. on the r134a chart (i.e. 175-210psi on the highside), i rev to 2500rpm to get that highside range.. that would also be safer.. avoid high pressure hose from bursting.. that's just mu process :)
Great video. I have a Schrader valve leak and need to buy the tool to fix that before adding refrigerant. I have the same manifold set that you do.
I don't know for sure but I've heard where one must vacuum all the refrigerant out and moisture before adding new refrigerant I've always heard that and to use a scale to measure how much to put back in according to the label under the hood
It's the best way to know you are not undercharging or overcharging. Charging based on pressures is tricky and inaccurate.
Very good 👍🏾 video
❤❤❤👍Love your channel bro 🙏
Great thanks
Was just about close the video out just before your said “ if your system has no pressure ……”
& guess what, I went outside to check the pressure amd there is none on high side and low side.
Looks like I gotta find the leak. Appreciate the video
Is that adapter included with the kit you bought @ Harbor Freight? Any other adapters?
That kit is super nice. I just have the small blue that came with a can years ago with no bells or whistles. I’m at the point where I hade to put a can in every 2 months in the summer. Guess I’ll replace the compressor eventually.
Unless it's leaking at the compressor don't just replace it to replace it. Add dye to the system and use a uv light or sometimes soapy water works too to find the leaks. Just wanna save you some cash
@@brianherndon5820
That bubble stuff that kids use for blowing bubbles is great for locating leaks. Just brush a little around fittings, etc. It's cheap and it WORKS.
A clean, white tissue also helps find leaks. just wipe around fittings and it should show signs of oil where there is a leak.
Good video, wondering if compressor is going bad with the low pressures? It’s working is what matters, I added 12 ounces to my Toyota Camry and working fine
I was hoping to 35 ish on the low and 150 on the high.. if it leaks out.. check the orifice tube for chunks from the compressor.
Great video
Thanks!
You really need to recover all, check for leaks, and vacuum and fill to how much your OE manufacture says to have in it.
Just checking by pressure is a great way to overfill your ac system and damage your ac compressor.
Thanks for the input.
I'm finishing a compressor replacement on my 05 t&c today. I thankfully saw before getting into this project that pressure by itself doesn't tell you how much refrigerant needs to go into the system.
So I bought a kitchen scale, I 'obtained' a copy of the factory service manual, and figured out exactly how much oil & refrigerant I need to put into my system.
So I'll be able to measure the exact ounces coming from the scale into the system and I've got the factory manual which has great info on how exactly to perform the tasks I need to do. Already swapped compressor, seals and o-rings, pulled my vacuum & no leaks.
Just need to make a final trip to the parts store cause my stupid can tap was machined improperly and doesn't fit the acme 1/4” connectors like it should.
Hopefully I can pull this off and get this AC working strong before a thousand mile move!
Good video , i didn't see you purge the low pressure side 😮
HI, for sake of argument , lets say your system takes 34oz of refrigerant...it will work better(believe it or not) with 31-32oz. Also wash your condenser rad with a garden hose it will help for better results.
thanks for the vid, be well !
ITs another good video.
I think the low side should also be purged before connecting the yellow line to the full can. Should be no need to purge the high side since refrigerant will never be added there.
Just for your edification, you can buy adapters to go on a 1234 system, because 134 will work in that system. When you get to about 11% of 134 in a 1234 system, you remove the fire hazard that the 1234 carries. It was well-known in Europe for causing engine fires quite frequently when they first started converting over to it. The other problem is is that the reason we use 134 is because it doesn't damage the ozone layer but they still can't explain why they're forcing us to convert over to yet another design except that the 134 patent has now expired. Just like R12 did a couple of decades ago.
Many vehicles actually required elope side pressure to be somewhere around 30 to 35. The greater differential between the low-pressure and high-pressure which is usually around 275, the colder the air will be after it goes through the evaporator.
I was thinking just that. I don't know why they would stop using r134 considering how much better it is compared to the old stuff.
It's only better according to the DuPont Scientists who said it was after the patent on R-12 expired.
@GlennHamblin r-12 worked great but killed the ozone bad. 134 works pretty well with way less side effects to the ozone. Why they released 1234 I have no idea
In theory it's because r134 is a greenhouse gas 100-120 times more powerful than CO2
@@brianherndon5820
R-1234 YR
3 times the price.
I'd say run with it. If you hear the compressor kick off again on low press. add a few more ounces. Or if you go full throttle to pass someone and the air blows hot during and after the event I'd add a bit more refrigerant. My truck did these items to me.
The delta T on car AC is 30F, so if it's 100 inside car it will blow 70, there is no fixed ok temp, when cool in car 75F it should blow about 45F. Too much refrigerant will damage compressor. Charge for 30F delta and accumulator canister frosty to touch 70-80% of canister. If system is completely flat you have to fix leak, evacuate it, and recharge correct weight.
Next time, you have to set up at big fan front de condenser coil. Tha min the car is runing on the way so , you got very accurate ac cooling if not probably is over charge y the higth pressure sensor is goin to cut up power. To prevent damage . O saturate the txv. Just at recomendation.
i juct changed my Compressor..... but its January and cold out.... does it make sense to do my AC now or should i wait until warmer temps? I can take to a shop, but i can also buy these gauges and pump and do it myself. I def need to pressurize the system and remove all air so i was thinking about buying a kit, but i dont have a garage to plug the kit into it.... can i use one of those 12V converters and plus into my car?
Nice job Jimmy.Looks like you fixed your problem,now a bunch of keyboard commandos are going to tell you what you did wrong.😂😂👍👍
I hate youtube for this exact reason.. everybody in the comments section an expert on everything... shits ridiculous
lots of them especially in this comments section actually gave great advice and compliments... this guy did his homework though ad did this the right way
Can you fill an AC system using the gauges instead of using the specified quantity of R134 under the hood?? Is he saying it doesn't matter if you disregard the specified quantity?
Cause I got a car that isn't blowing super cold, but the system is sealed still after 20 years, and I was gonna evacuate the system before filling it so that way the quanitty is correct... But based on this guy's logic I can just see what the gauges are at and add however I see fit as long as the guages are in spec.
I don't wanna mess up my system by just adding R134 til the gauges read within spec at the risk of overfilling with Freon...?
Im curious as to exactly what vehicle you drive. It looks to be a gmc yeuck of some sorts. Not every truck or version of gmc truck, but generally on average most 1500 series trucks that ive worked on the ac systems on, again rear air will differ, but generally youll see a requirement of somewhere between 1.7- 2 lbs of 134a. You put a 1.5 pounds or right under in yours so how was your compressor kicking on in the beginning of the video. In my experience a system that is that low on freon will not kick the compressor on.
Did you happen to look at the sticker on the front hood latch area and or to the left or right of your engine bay on top of the accumulator to see what the system holds how many ounces it holds total? That's usually the first place you start with an AC system before refilling the system. If you put 2 ounce cans in there, it had to go somewhere so that's what's called Serviceable leak that you must find or just keep putting refrigerant in every so often. While it holds through that no system is 100% irritate because of the compressor eating oil to lubricate the clutch so it does leak some refrigerant/AC COMPRESSOR OIL. You could just keep adding cans of refrigerant but that being said eventually that's gonna stop working because eventually it's going to not be as effective if there is a large leak because at some point the AC system will take some type of contaminants from the outside air. That being said when you would need to evacuate the system using vacuum pump and some ultraviolet die, which usually is already added into the oil that you'd be adding to the system, along with your ultraviolet black and your goggles in order to find the leak. System is evacuated and the repair is made. Then you can vacuum down the system to draw vacuum to about -30 HD inches of mercury. I believe it is is when water boils at -30 HG vacuum in which that will get rid of all of the moisture after a minimum of 15 minutes to boil off any atmospheric moisture and or oxygen nitrogen, etc. it's vacuum down and holding a steady pressure. You would then fill it with the exact amount of refrigerant as per the OEM sticker located where the hood latches or could be right above on the hood itself where the hood latch would be in the closed position. System is an overfilled because it won't last long if it's overfilled because as we know, liquids are virtually incompressible and the compressor in modern cars, mainly built of plastic and rubber gaskets and O-rings on the inside so the plastic pistons and what not don't fare very well to liquids. Other than that, I think you stopped at the right time because it's never a good thing to overfill it and it's always a good thing to underfill it to be on the safe side. You weren't sure exactly how much refrigerant was already in the system in case you have to go by the gauges and whatever the OEM pressures are rather than the standard air conditioning system readings found on the Internet which are standard, but may not always apply to every vehicle making model depending on refrigerant type, etc. All in all success for sure rather than going to your mechanic shop down the street and he's going to charge you 100 bucks just to hook it up to the AC machine & if he was honest, he would say yup you're just a little bit low. I'll top it up but it doesn't always work out. That way they'll tell you you need something because they don't make any money on 24 ounces of refrigerant.
How do you add the required compressor lubricant???
You have the correct adapter for that can. It's a self sealing can. The tip of the depressing rod is FLAT. You can remove the tap after retracting the rod.
For anyone else - Don't use the other common can tap that has a POINTY end! Those are for the cans that have a puncture top. Once those are engaged (handle is turned down) you can't remove the tap or the can will just dump out.
The system usually takes about 22 ounces of R134 (check your owner's manual or the label in the chassis/hood). Do not keep adding refrigerant to your system without any kind of measurement (example weighting the cans), don't ask me how I know.
Pro's usually "weigh" how much they will put in so ... can you use the gauges to put enough in without overcharging safely?
In Australia, all work with Refrigerants requires the correct Licence. Disposable (single use) containers are BANNED. So, really this limits anybody that is a home mechanic from doing what this Video is showing the free world.
It used to be that way here in Wisconsin too until 10 years ago they lifted the ban
That's shitty
It should be banned everywhere, a lot of those cans have loads of crap mixed in and some of them aren't even what it says it is on the tin. Usually cheap hydrocarbons like propane and butane. But this leads to mixing of different substances inside the ac and causes a lot of headaches.
At the end of the day it does not cost much more to have a professional look at it than it is to buy those little tins. Especially if you end up murdering your compressor.
So what good are the numbers from the internet as far as low side pressure? You had 20 psi when you started, then 25 when you stopped adding freon. I'm confused.
Question did you purge the suction and discharge? I noticed you purged the feeder hose but you didn't purge the other ones! Anyways great video... I'm a 29-year service technician from Nashville Tennessee
I’m in middle TN as well. Currently trying to solve a rough idle on my ‘05 Envoy. Check my latest video I just uploaded. Here’s a link to my fuel trims: Live Data From 2005 GMC Envoy! Help Me Diagnose Rough Idle!
ruclips.net/user/shortstTO8Oc_T1k0?feature=share
@@1RoadGarageignored the question entirely.
Should the red and blue hoses be bleed of air too?
Only if they're opened at the manifold. The high pressure side doesn't 'feed' into the system and the high pressure manifold valve didn't have any reason to be opened in this top off scenario. The low side should have been bled by cracking the manifold valve open slightly with the yellow fill hose side disconnected/open to bleed it out, then reclose the manifold valve. Yellow fill is always bled every time you connect a bottle/can.
To get the coldest air you need the gauge to read 28 psi to 36 psi while the compressor is running. Use the PSI Gauge as a temp guide 30 psi should give you near 0 degrees celcius
you want the temperature to be about 4 degrees Celsius As Ive said before {Less is More}
Hmmm, after 2. Can still no pressure increase on the low side. Sound like the expansion valve is stuck. This regulate the flow of refrigerant throw the system.
It would have been good to first to pull a vacuum on the system to make sure it doesn't have any leaks. The fact that you had to add 2 can of R132 A tells me that you do have a leak and your fix is temporary. All in all good video , this is how we all learn. O'Reillys Auto here in Bozeman will lend the gauge set and vacuum pump to make testing and recharging with very little cost
pulling a vac on the system would require dumping all of the 134 out of the system, without a recovery device this is a bad idea. It looks like a GM that's a couple decades old. A leak detector is a better idea
Yep a sealed system that leaks isnt a sealed system lol
I never seem to be able to get those new self sealing cans to function right even with the correct fitting/valve, they either won't release the refrigerant or they leak it all out wasting the whole can ....I miss the old puncture style cans, I never wasted any refrigerant with those