Best video out there in my opinion. Took so long to find quality and up to date info. I hated messing with firmware and updating these machines. Now I'm confident that I can do it with this. And my machine is running the tom's bed test 190mm print as we speak. Smooth as butter. Thanks a lot! Just did mine and ordered a 2nd and 3rd for my ender 3 v2 and my ender 5 pro that i jacked up last time. Super excited.
Hello Chris, As others have already said, Thank you! I really appreciate that you've made this video! I've got and Ender 3 V2 that I am trying to get running for my young cousin and I needed a hand myself! Thanks again, great video with Tons of information!
Seriously, you just saved my bltouch from being thrown out the window and beaten with a hammer. I needed Pronterface to understand everything, and I'm glad you taught me about the g-code things. I was questioning why I bought it if I needed to level my bed every damn print like before. But nope, I was just unaware of the proper use. Thank you.
I've been a subscriber for who knows how long. Just saw this vid and you made my day, ok, night. I've been trying for 2 years to get the bl touch attached. The connection to the main board is too big. Now I know why. I was trying to plug it into the wrong place. It would have helped to have instructions long ago. Now, maybe I can get the machine up and running again. Thank you so much.
Thank you for the video and info!! I have been trying for days to get my printer right and just haven’t been able to and I think now I understand exactly what you’re saying as soon as I get home I can’t wait to jump on this thing to see if I can get it right!! Also I just caught that you change the springs in the very end of the video you put the other ones on there versus the stock ones. I wish you would’ve showed how you went back and get your bed and level after you change the springs just for novice like myself. And I’m sure there’s plenty of us out here!! Thanks
THANK YOU ffs that was hard to find info on this updated and with the same file structure as i had. your playlist on ender bugs me this video should be on top not the other one :)
Just fyi the latest armbian distro for the orangepi zero 2 doesnt work. If you want to install klipper use the debian 3.0 server edition from the official orangepi page.
@@deathcube2006 The Debian 3.0 wouldnt work for me I flashed the version before it 2.0.2 I think, im sure I have seen somewhere that someone has fernangled the Armbian distro and got it working, I will look back in my history and see if I can find it, although Im not 100% sure it is the latest release
One of the most common questions i see on the 3D printer discord channels is regarding the wiring of the the BL touch to this or the 4.2.7 board . With the 5 pin connector socket on the board having the (left to right) pin ID as G-V-IN-G-OUT the wiring @ 6:26 appears to be 180 deg turned in the connector. Have Creality decided to once again change the wiring colour norm to confuse people ??
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the reply. There's a load of people asking for help on this topic on Discord & Reddit almost every weekend. With Creality applying the "make it up as you go along" approach to BL touch wiring colour ID's and CR touch's, its increasingly difficult to help people. Add to this the BTT published firmware having 2 variants ( 5 pin socket or use of the 2 pin Z min endstop socket & 3 pin servo socket) theres a minefield of options catching a lot of people out!!
Awesome video! I am going to setup the bltouch soon and this was the most informative video I have seen so far. One question, is it better to use upgraded springs or install solid spacers instead. I am new to this and learning. Thank you in advance.
@@ChrisRiley How do I turn off software endstops? i am running Jyers and it wont let me go negative either. Am i supposed to use Kura to communicate with the printer? Im lost.
Why does the extension cable not have a single connector. Mine came with 2 female connectors and in the smaller one the wires switch position. I’ve cut the plastic down on the connector to make them fit side by side but worried the wiring switch will can cause a failure.
I'm funny that way, but I prefer to manually trigger my endstops after messing w/ firmware. No chance of crashing that way. Back in my Marlin days, I had the 210C nozzle crash into the OEM flex mat 3 times because it was just a few mm above and the linear advance code disabled steppers. The other reason to manually tram is to have square prints. If the bed is sloped, your corners will be trapezoid even though the BLT compensated on the 1st layer. G28 used to clear the mesh from memory so it's good to load M420 S1 after it.
I have been trying to get my printer to work for 2 days now since I got the BL touch installed. I don't know why but I can't get a good first layer at all... it seems like the auto leveler is not working since the first layer comes out as it would on an extremely crooked bed. Do you maybe know why this happens?
Sometimes the probing fails and it doesn't make that obvious. What I do is cable up USB to my complete and run a G29 from Pronterface. That will give me the map, then I can tell where the bed might be off. www.pronterface.com/
How do you know you have the correct version of firmware? There are so many to choose from that it is confusing. I have loaded several different ones and some are obviously incorrect as I do not even get a start screen after the flash is complete. Could the printer be damaged if the correct and proper one is not the one loaded? Must all the menu items work? on some I do not have bed or nozzle heaters work, On others I get no homing or leveling. I am a newbie in distress.
I just go with the one with the newest date. There should be one that has both the board and screen firmware that match. You shouldn't be able to hurt anything flashing firmware. You just need to find the matching set.
I have a CR Touch and the probe drops down randomly. It actually tore the part off the bed once. After I level the bed I slip a piece of tape under it in case it drops on it's own.
I know the Voxelab Aquila's bed levelling has a correct XY Offset that gives a uniform mesh when probing with the BL Touch, wheras Crealitys BL offering is not uniform (on 99% of their machines), I was wondering if the Voxelab Marlin FW would work with the V2 (has anyone tried this?), obviously the screen FW wont work, I guess the next instalment of this series will be a Jyers FW flash which is the go to FW for the V2 so I am told
@@ChrisRiley i followed it to the letter my default marlin (bugfix-2.1.x) compiled without errors only can't get it in the ender v2 (4.2.7) no beep of death nothing. thought maybe only the screen doesn't work but octoprint can't access it either. so I am doing something wrong somewhere.
So ive been having trouble getting my 3D touch to play well with marlin. It tries to probe the bed 10mm off the bed. Ive changed the z offset from --10 - + 20. It has no effect on the probe height. Ive went and recompiled Marlin what feels like 1000 times now. Any chance to get a video on troubleshooting and repairing issues? THANKS!!
the sensor will always probe at the same height, z_offset is then used to tell the printer what the difference is between the probe height and the bed height. So you home z and like Chris did you use a piece of paper and lower the head until it just touches the paper, this gives you a rough z_offset that you can enter in the system. Then you home z and tell the printer to move to z=0 (g1 z0) and the head should move down by the value you entered for z_offset (if you currently have +20 then it should raise 20mm). After this you can do the babystepping to fine tune the offset. z home and z=0 are different.
@@onleditpas So ive actually done that. The bed is level and print-on-able. When I tell it to probe the bed it homes raises 10mm and extends the probe and fails. Get a M999 and have to reset the boars to proceed. I have a feeling its something im missing when compiling marlin. I set off set, z safe homing, enable z end stop for homing. I think im just going to find a stock image from btt or creality that has it baked in to see if its a keyboard and chair error lol.
GD firmware is for boards that shipped with a Gigadevice micro Controller ( the chip to the lower right of the board #) Other boards shipped with the ST Micorelctronics Microcontroller. Per BV3D: Bryan Vines. ruclips.net/video/9__7SCDdKs4/видео.html
Oh man!!! I dont really know why these Enders are so much advertised as beginner 3d printers... You really need deep pockets and nerves of steel to get these working to a somewhat satisfactory level. BL touch, aftermarket all metal hotend, decent extruder, the list goes on... I went with your LOG/ Tom's dolly but with very carefully chosen components and ended up building two custom Frankenprinters that have been serving me well for already over two years without any hustle and even my 11 years old son can work them out. On the bed levelling side of things, I went with Mesh bed levelling and enabling Marlin's option "restore mesh after M28". Once mesh is created and saved in the eeprom, it can be activated by M420 S1 command in the start gcode. With enabled babystepping you can just adjust the 1st layer and that's it. As usual, very helpful and detailed guide.
JuSt to clearify. The boards are all 4.2.7, however some boards use the clone which uses the older Maple environment vs STM32. I have noticed some boxes have GD little white sticker to identify which board is in the box. Ender 3 pros are the same but 4.2.2. Also they come with Creality PSUs vs Meanwell. Creality has made a Ender series that come with meanwells by the name Meanwell in the product name. Creality PSUs do not appear to be rebranded Chang Laing
GD stands for Giga Devices, a chinese chipmaker. Their GD32 line is an incomplete clone of the genuine ST32 chips designed in Europe. The main issue is that the libraries for the ST chips are proprietary, so the GD32 has to use the Maple environment, which is relatively buggy by comparison.
Best video out there in my opinion. Took so long to find quality and up to date info. I hated messing with firmware and updating these machines. Now I'm confident that I can do it with this. And my machine is running the tom's bed test 190mm print as we speak. Smooth as butter. Thanks a lot! Just did mine and ordered a 2nd and 3rd for my ender 3 v2 and my ender 5 pro that i jacked up last time. Super excited.
Great, thank you!
Yea Chris did an amazing job on this video!! Thank you
Hello Chris, As others have already said, Thank you! I really appreciate that you've made this video! I've got and Ender 3 V2 that I am trying to get running for my young cousin and I needed a hand myself! Thanks again, great video with Tons of information!
Thank you for watching! Glad it is helping others get into the hobby!
Seriously, you just saved my bltouch from being thrown out the window and beaten with a hammer. I needed Pronterface to understand everything, and I'm glad you taught me about the g-code things. I was questioning why I bought it if I needed to level my bed every damn print like before. But nope, I was just unaware of the proper use. Thank you.
That's great! Thanks for watching
I've been a subscriber for who knows how long. Just saw this vid and you made my day, ok, night. I've been trying for 2 years to get the bl touch attached. The connection to the main board is too big. Now I know why. I was trying to plug it into the wrong place. It would have helped to have instructions long ago. Now, maybe I can get the machine up and running again. Thank you so much.
I'm happy I could help! Thanks for watching
Thank you for the video and info!! I have been trying for days to get my printer right and just haven’t been able to and I think now I understand exactly what you’re saying as soon as I get home I can’t wait to jump on this thing to see if I can get it right!!
Also I just caught that you change the springs in the very end of the video you put the other ones on there versus the stock ones. I wish you would’ve showed how you went back and get your bed and level after you change the springs just for novice like myself. And I’m sure there’s plenty of us out here!! Thanks
Thanks Billy, yeah, the stock springs were bothering me. :) I do show that in one of the upgrade videos. ruclips.net/video/r0GiAmZiQBE/видео.html
The renaming of the Bin file is such essential information. Thank you sir! You are a gentleman and a scholar.
Glad it was helpful!
Finally, a video that actually helped. Thx bruh. Subbed!!
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video. I've been struggling for 4 days to get my bed level. This is great. Can't wait to watch more.
Great, thanks for watching!
THANK YOU ffs that was hard to find info on this updated and with the same file structure as i had. your playlist on ender bugs me this video should be on top not the other one :)
Thanks for watching!
Woow that G29 saved me :D my print was in the air
Thank you sir
Great to hear! Thank you!
Already have ABL on my E3V2; still watched. Thanks Chris!
Awesome, thank you
I was stuck with this update for a while, so many variations.😤 Thanks for sharing.😊
No problem 😊
Hi Chris, I received my Orange Pi Zero 2's from Ali Express they took just 10 days to arrive, the fastest shipping I have ever had from China!
Just fyi the latest armbian distro for the orangepi zero 2 doesnt work. If you want to install klipper use the debian 3.0 server edition from the official orangepi page.
@@deathcube2006 The Debian 3.0 wouldnt work for me I flashed the version before it 2.0.2 I think, im sure I have seen somewhere that someone has fernangled the Armbian distro and got it working, I will look back in my history and see if I can find it, although Im not 100% sure it is the latest release
Thanks for the tip
Best guide on youtube, thankyou! subscribed
Wow, thanks!
One of the most common questions i see on the 3D printer discord channels is regarding the wiring of the the BL touch to this or the 4.2.7 board . With the 5 pin connector socket on the board having the (left to right) pin ID as G-V-IN-G-OUT the wiring @ 6:26 appears to be 180 deg turned in the connector. Have Creality decided to once again change the wiring colour norm to confuse people ??
Wow, I didn't know they did that, I haven't had a .7 board as of yet.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the reply. There's a load of people asking for help on this topic on Discord & Reddit almost every weekend. With Creality applying the "make it up as you go along" approach to BL touch wiring colour ID's and CR touch's, its increasingly difficult to help people. Add to this the BTT published firmware having 2 variants ( 5 pin socket or use of the 2 pin Z min endstop socket & 3 pin servo socket) theres a minefield of options catching a lot of people out!!
dude THANK YOU!!!!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for your informative videos. Please consider review/installation of 4.4.0 Beta2 for Prusa Mini.
Thank you
Awesome video! I am going to setup the bltouch soon and this was the most informative video I have seen so far. One question, is it better to use upgraded springs or install solid spacers instead. I am new to this and learning. Thank you in advance.
Thanks! I have done both ways, it doesn't matter much from what I've seen. I like them on solid mounts.
Good step by step video - thanks for all of these you make.
Thanks Dave!
my printer wont let me go into the negative z values, so how do i get the Z-offset now?
In Marlin you can use the M211 S0 to turn software endstops off.
@@ChrisRiley How do I turn off software endstops? i am running Jyers and it wont let me go negative either. Am i supposed to use Kura to communicate with the printer? Im lost.
@@jmarshal76 Run this command, M211 S0 to turn them off.
Next up use the Jyers firmware to set up the BLTouch on the V2, right now I do the manual mesh method.
I see what I can do
Why does the extension cable not have a single connector. Mine came with 2 female connectors and in the smaller one the wires switch position. I’ve cut the plastic down on the connector to make them fit side by side but worried the wiring switch will can cause a failure.
Shouldn't be an issue. The 2 connects is if you don't have probe pins you can use servo and Z min pins.
Ayy, we shop at the same Microcenter. It's a good one alright.
🙂👍
So, awesome video by the way. However, my probe doesn't extend when I auto home. Any idea on how to resolve that?
Only thing I can think of is the wiring might be off.
I'm funny that way, but I prefer to manually trigger my endstops after messing w/ firmware. No chance of crashing that way.
Back in my Marlin days, I had the 210C nozzle crash into the OEM flex mat 3 times because it was just a few mm above and the linear advance code disabled steppers.
The other reason to manually tram is to have square prints. If the bed is sloped, your corners will be trapezoid even though the BLT compensated on the 1st layer.
G28 used to clear the mesh from memory so it's good to load M420 S1 after it.
Thanks for your input
the GD on Creality Firmware mains the new board 4.2.2 not as you mention on the video, can you confirm that??
Yes, that is correct, I gained that infor after the making of this.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chric, I appreciate your efforts, big respect to the reply to my message
I plan on doing this on my geeetech..
Good luck with your projects!
I have been trying to get my printer to work for 2 days now since I got the BL touch installed. I don't know why but I can't get a good first layer at all... it seems like the auto leveler is not working since the first layer comes out as it would on an extremely crooked bed. Do you maybe know why this happens?
Sometimes the probing fails and it doesn't make that obvious. What I do is cable up USB to my complete and run a G29 from Pronterface. That will give me the map, then I can tell where the bed might be off. www.pronterface.com/
Dude thank you
Happy to help
How do you know you have the correct version of firmware? There are so many to choose from that it is confusing. I have loaded several different ones and some are obviously incorrect as I do not even get a start screen after the flash is complete. Could the printer be damaged if the correct and proper one is not the one loaded? Must all the menu items work? on some I do not have bed or nozzle heaters work, On others I get no homing or leveling. I am a newbie in distress.
I just go with the one with the newest date. There should be one that has both the board and screen firmware that match. You shouldn't be able to hurt anything flashing firmware. You just need to find the matching set.
I have a CR Touch and the probe drops down randomly. It actually tore the part off the bed once. After I level the bed I slip a piece of tape under it in case it drops on it's own.
Thanks for the tip
I would assume this is pretty much the same process for the cr touch right?
Yes, just a different option, it's right under bltouch.
@@ChrisRiley Wait different option where? In fw download or something else?
@@gergthewerg Well there use to be a different probe option for crtouch in configuration.h, now there is not. I would just use bltouch.
@@ChrisRiley gotcha, I'll try the same steps when the leveler comes in. If things go wrong I'll let you know. Thanks!!
My Ender 3 v2 won't auto home at all after installing the BLTouch. I've tried three different firmware versions and it still won't auto home.
It could be an endstop issue. Run an M119 command to see what the endstops read.
no clue what im doing wrong but if i do auto home mine just crashes into the bed
The probe thinks it always open. Check the wiring again and your endstop settings.
I know the Voxelab Aquila's bed levelling has a correct XY Offset that gives a uniform mesh when probing with the BL Touch, wheras Crealitys BL offering is not uniform (on 99% of their machines), I was wondering if the Voxelab Marlin FW would work with the V2 (has anyone tried this?), obviously the screen FW wont work, I guess the next instalment of this series will be a Jyers FW flash which is the go to FW for the V2 so I am told
I'm not sure if there firmware will work, but I will have a solid firmware version for you soon.
What cable you’re using for upload firmware.
This one you have to use SD card to upload firmware to it.
i have a 3dtouch on my v2 and have the right firmware everything works now i want the newest firmware :P hope Chris can help me
Oddly enough, he did a vid on that just before this one. On my phone it's next in my queue.
ruclips.net/video/7i7PnBZ6cnM/видео.html
Try this one: ruclips.net/video/7i7PnBZ6cnM/видео.html
@@ChrisRiley i followed it to the letter my default marlin (bugfix-2.1.x) compiled without errors only can't get it in the ender v2 (4.2.7) no beep of death nothing.
thought maybe only the screen doesn't work but octoprint can't access it either. so I am doing something wrong somewhere.
@@inducatvius3883 Not sure what else to try.
So ive been having trouble getting my 3D touch to play well with marlin. It tries to probe the bed 10mm off the bed. Ive changed the z offset from --10 - + 20. It has no effect on the probe height. Ive went and recompiled Marlin what feels like 1000 times now. Any chance to get a video on troubleshooting and repairing issues? THANKS!!
the sensor will always probe at the same height, z_offset is then used to tell the printer what the difference is between the probe height and the bed height. So you home z and like Chris did you use a piece of paper and lower the head until it just touches the paper, this gives you a rough z_offset that you can enter in the system. Then you home z and tell the printer to move to z=0 (g1 z0) and the head should move down by the value you entered for z_offset (if you currently have +20 then it should raise 20mm). After this you can do the babystepping to fine tune the offset. z home and z=0 are different.
@@onleditpas So ive actually done that. The bed is level and print-on-able. When I tell it to probe the bed it homes raises 10mm and extends the probe and fails. Get a M999 and have to reset the boars to proceed. I have a feeling its something im missing when compiling marlin. I set off set, z safe homing, enable z end stop for homing. I think im just going to find a stock image from btt or creality that has it baked in to see if its a keyboard and chair error lol.
That's really strange, it's almost like it's not reading the Z min pin successfully.
GD firmware is for boards that shipped with a Gigadevice micro Controller ( the chip to the lower right of the board #) Other boards shipped with the ST Micorelctronics Microcontroller. Per BV3D: Bryan Vines. ruclips.net/video/9__7SCDdKs4/видео.html
Good info to have, thank you.
Once you go auto bed leveling it's really hard to go back.....
You said it!
Dude you are the shit
Thank you !
Oh man!!! I dont really know why these Enders are so much advertised as beginner 3d printers... You really need deep pockets and nerves of steel to get these working to a somewhat satisfactory level. BL touch, aftermarket all metal hotend, decent extruder, the list goes on... I went with your LOG/ Tom's dolly but with very carefully chosen components and ended up building two custom Frankenprinters that have been serving me well for already over two years without any hustle and even my 11 years old son can work them out. On the bed levelling side of things, I went with Mesh bed levelling and enabling Marlin's option "restore mesh after M28". Once mesh is created and saved in the eeprom, it can be activated by M420 S1 command in the start gcode. With enabled babystepping you can just adjust the 1st layer and that's it. As usual, very helpful and detailed guide.
That's great, if you want it done right sometimes you gotta do it yourself. 🙂
GD is for the CPU they are using that is a ARM clone. GigiDigit
JuSt to clearify. The boards are all 4.2.7, however some boards use the clone which uses the older Maple environment vs STM32. I have noticed some boxes have GD little white sticker to identify which board is in the box. Ender 3 pros are the same but 4.2.2. Also they come with Creality PSUs vs Meanwell. Creality has made a Ender series that come with meanwells by the name Meanwell in the product name. Creality PSUs do not appear to be rebranded Chang Laing
GD stands for Giga Devices, a chinese chipmaker.
Their GD32 line is an incomplete clone of the genuine ST32 chips designed in Europe.
The main issue is that the libraries for the ST chips are proprietary, so the GD32 has to use the Maple environment, which is relatively buggy by comparison.
Interesting, thank you for your comments
CEO 😅👍🏼 and who's the Chief of the CEO.....?😆🤭🤐
Lol, the smarter and better looking one!
BLT ouch
Lol
now youtube has become absolutely impossible: i am foreced to watch a stupid commercial for 3:42 minutes!!
I'm not sure what your talking about
@@ChrisRiley that is was unable to skip commercial at start of your video, youtube seemed to force me looking at a 3.4 min advertisemenr
☹