Setting Z-Offset for a BLTouch (or another probe)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Did you just install a BLTouch (or other ABL) and now you’re printing in mid air? This video goes over how to find the proper z-offset value for your probe.
Edit: A lot of people ask how to “go below 0mm Z.” My firmware (Vanilla Marlin 2.x) is set in configuration.g to allow me to go 5mm below zero. However, you can also Send M211 S0 via terminal (octoprint or pronterface) to unlimit axes. When you are done, just send M211 S1 to re-enable axes limits.
I dont know how you did it, but in the 7 minutes you took you explained this far, far, FAR better than literally any other video or forum I've been able to find. You demonstrated how to get it absolutely flawlessly and without any kind of needless measuring. Truly fantastic.
Same here
Yeah actually explained that very very well. Understood that so well... Goly
Same thing. Everyone else glossed over this
I agree with this comment so strongly. You are a blessing dude. Thank you so damn much
There's a reason this is the top comment. I've spent 3 days reading through various subreddits/forums and finally found this video. Everything works great now!
Thank you, I have used your video twice now to help with this. My motion->move wouldn't go below zero in my version of Marlin, so I had to set my offset to -1 (or lower if you need) and then move to a +.2 and ended with a final z-offset of -.8. Thank you for your help in understanding what should be a basic concept.
Glad it helped
Wild that a flashlight review channel made a better video on 3d printing than 3d printing channels. Great video 10/10
This comment really made me smile. Ty!
@@cheule as someone who watched a lot of 3d printing videos recently I have to agree.
Agreed, plain simple and to the point! Exactly what I was after without overcomplicated twaddle!
I spent the whole weekend downloading firmwares, reading and re-reading the manual, converting languages from PC to MAC, dented my printing board, ordering new nozzels, went on the verge of returning my BL TOUCH and then FINALLY came across your video! THANK YOU so much for explaining thoroughly and quickly. Karma points for you my friend!
Complete 3D printing newbie here, and this was by far the most useful video out there by far. Explained the z-offset very well, much appriciated!
Great way of explaining how it works. No beating around the bush. Thanks!
Sometimes things are so simple with a good explanation, and I don't even have a 3d printer, nice video..
You are GREAT. Finally someone who explained it in an easiest way. Now I clearly understand how BL touch works and what need to do make work perfectly. Thanks
I have been struggling with this for eight hours and finally i came across a video that was explained perfectly ,thank you . i did load software in Chinese the first time which set me back a little though !
Man I've been searching for days to find a video this good, that explained everything flawlessly and is so simplified..... why has nobody else done this? kudos to you Sir 👍
my printer is limited to positive units when manually controlling the values how do I make it go negative so i can find my offset.
M211 S0 to disable software endstops and M211 S1 to enable it again
Finally a good quality video
You are my god damned hero. This is easily the clearest explanation of how to do this I have found. Thank you!
Finally someone that shows the damned lcd screen ! Fantastic explanation of what ends up being simple process that many channels make sound harder than it really is or go off on a tangent right when the viewer is trying to learn a particular part of the process.
Best explanation of Z-offset by far on YT. Thanks a ton!
My recently purchased Ender 3 Pro has a different LCD display to yours. Some controls are there but in different places. How do you get the graphics to turn on?. Also, when I save the settings it does not beep. I read that some machines actually have a control to switch the beeper on or off. Mine does not seem to have it. After following these instructions carefully my printer is still attempting to print about 3 mm above the bed. I have a BLTouch fitted and upgraded the firmware to Ver.4.2.2. This printer usually worked well with the slicer supplied with the kit but I have not been able to get 1 successful print using Cura. It was going well with the standard slicer until I fitted a Creality glass bed and then after resetting the Z stop switch everything went haywire and now all I get is squashed prints. I removed the glass bed as I could not get proper adhesion. Tried using hair spray, and then glue stick with little success. I am using PETG with 245 nozzle and 70 bed and 50% fan. I have now given up on the glass bed. Any successful prints must have a raft. I could not get adhesion using brim, or no raft. Most videos I see where they show the LCD screen the displays are different and in some cases my printer does not even have some of the controls mentioned. I cannot find anything in the standard software or Cura where I can control the number of 1st layers or the Z offset. Maybe the units sold in Australia have different firmware to the US models. Any assistance would be appreciated.
@@barryrsahrp This isn't my printer, although I do have an Ender 3 Pro. I use PETG with the original bed and it usually works fine, with an occasional adhesion issue. I also use Octopi so I don't use the screen a whole lot, just for basic functions. Mine beeps. Lastly, not sure what you mean by "standard slicer"... I don't think any of the Ender 3 models have a built in slicer do they?
@@wade-airdog7730 Yes, that is the slicer program that is supplied with the Ender 3 Pro.
@@barryrsahrp you need to put the G29 into your start G code in Cura so that it knows you are using a probe, search for BL Touch Cura settings and you will find videos on it
@@wade-airdog7730 They come with a skinned version of an old version of Cura on the SD card that is supplied with the printer
This just helped me tons thanks for the video
Just awesome! Thank you very much there's a lot of posts and videos about this but this one is so clear and simple it helped me a lot!
Thank you!
genius mode, activated! thank you!!!!!
That's one of the very precise and very professional expert way of teaching, the setting of z offset or any kind of tutorials. I have never seen easy and detailed tutorial like this ever on youtube.
Wow, thanks!
Hi, I have just followed your method but when I get to the stage where you have to find out your negative Z value, I get stuck - my printer seems to max out at 0.00 and will not move in the negative direction. Any suggestions on improvements here?
yes, same here....
@@MrJonesproduction disable soft end stop by issuing M211 S0 (re-enable with S1)
@@azehcnas how can i do that?
@@willemjanvandenhondel5860 I am using a different version of the firmware than the one he is using. My version also doesn’t allow below 0. But instead I went to 0 and then went to Z offset and Z offset let’s you go below 0 (and moves the head at the same time) and allowed me to go down further to -0.25mm. Then I saved. Your comment is 4W old so hopefully you found a solution, but in case anyone else stumbles here later on down the road googling stuff that’s how I did it lol.
@@JimTaulman hi jim, thank you for your reply! I will try it today.
I've been struggling with this for days, at last a simple explanation which works. I was thinking of uninstalling the BL touch and going back to manual bed levelling.
I was about to do the same until I found this! Life saver!
Seriously man this is the best and only video to explain the process I have seen. Thank you for taking the time to do this and to do it better than anyone else, bar none.
Hey man great video. Was a little bit lengthy, but it really helped me out. Thnx so much!
Thank you so much for this. This is by far the most concise and informative video out there when it comes to the BLT.
I was having a rough time getting things exactly right after replacing my springs and adding the auto-leveling, but with this insight it was a piece of cake!
I used this video 6 months ago when i first got my glass bed. This is the only video on youtube that made sense to me. Here i am today, with a brand new PEI bed. And then I can’t for the life of me remember what I need to do to make this work again. And then i re found this video, and i fixed it. Thank you so much.
finally a video that completely shows how to do it and not just talking about it while pointing at an ender. thank you
I laughed out loud by the while pointing at an ender, its so true.
The best, short and precise explanation to fix this issue. A genius man, Thanks a lot !
For anyone who happens to be using an skr mini e3 v2 board and wondering why they can't move Z below 0.00, go to Configuration.h and uncomment "#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM".
After compiling and flashing, toggle "Soft Endstops" off in Marlin mode and you'll be able to go to the negative values.
i search for long time, but i still dont know how to change the marlin, can you teach me how to do it? thanks
Thank you sir!
thanks king, helped a lot!
This video should come with the purchase of every BLTouch. Best explanation I've heard on this, in the perfect "explain like I'm 5" format. Thank you!
You are setting the zero onto the paper which is 0.1 mm above the table. That means that your initial layer height will not be what you set in Cura but like 0.1 mm more because of the thickness of the 80g/m2 paper (0.1mm).
You are right. I was having issues where I was doing this with one piece of paper and my first layer was way to squished. I used two pieces and went back and it’s a lot better.
My move z will not go negative. I upgraded to a btt but it was working mechanically before.
No matter how many times I said it or adjust it or get it right it never wants to lay down a good first layer. My BL touch is trash.
This is an incredibly to the point, easy to follow tutorial thanks!
It’s 2am and I’m finally done. Thank you
This video deserves a million more views. Hands down the best and simplest explanation.
I’m still very confused so when the sensor touches the plate the nozzle is high above the plate? I thought the nozzle was for bed leveling
@@shaark_1396 The pin of your BLTouch must be higher than the nozzle when stowed and lower than the nozzle when expanded. So wherever the pin hits the bed that point will be marked as z0, given you have used BLTouch instead of z homing switch to mark z0 < very important, if you are still using endstops for z0 that is another story
Z offset = [difference from that z0 measured by the pin to the nozzle tip], also equals to how much lower z has to go for the nozzle to reach the bed. The more negative z offset is, the bigger the difference between the expanded pin and nozzle tip.
@@CopyLion but how you move your Z to minus??? it wont go below
0.00
@@MrJonesproduction You should be looking to adjust Z offset, not Z itself. You shouldn't need to adjust Z to below zero in this case.
You've made this look so amazingly simple, compared to other videos I have seen.
Let's just clear this up, I am a total noob at 3d printing. I am a game streamer/content creator so this is outside my expertise. However, more and more people have asked for me to get into this so I can print gaming logos, statues etc so I said yes. By far amazing........ Point is, this is really new to me and I'm sl glad I've found your channel so I can continue improving my ender 3. You're amazing dude!
Glad it was helpful!
@@cheule Thanks for the video. I just set up my ender 3 neo And I'm having trouble with Rosie access. This helped me a great deal. However I'm not completely Certain the way it works on your older model is the same way it still works on the new one
I was looking for someone that was able to explain this for dummies. This is indeed, just as other are telling, by far the best explanation I was able to find.
Thank you very much for this detailed explanation and therefore, many super good looking prints because of it!
My firmware doesn't have any configuration option. How do you access it, and what firmware can I get that gives me that option?
In the video description are two ways to go below zero.
Also, I had updated my firmware to “vanilla 2.0 marlin”
You mean no mandatory building of own custom firmware even though I don't have time for it or know how? 🤯🤯🤯
❗❗❗ 5:18 i cant set negative values. firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing.bin marlin 2.0.7.2 HELP!
Same issue. Did you solve this?
You can comment MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z define in Marlin Configuration.h
My firmware (Vanilla Marlin 2.x) is set in configuration.g to allow me to go 5mm below zero. However, you can also Send M211 S0 via terminal (octoprint or pronterface) to unlimit axes. When you are done, just send M211 S1 to re-enable axes limits.
The best video
I usually use a digital scale to measure z offset.
Great video. I tried following your steps, but when i tried to move the Z it wouldn't let me go into the - range just + range. In 4:49 in your video, i can't do that.
In Marlin, there is a setting to allow you to go below 0mm. I'm not at my printer at the moment, but hopefully this helps your search.
@@cheule how are you accessing marlin via prince LCD or PC via some software?
I had this same problem. I couldn't go below 0 on the Z-axis.
My workaround (from the LCD screen):
1. Warm the Bed to 60c and the Nozzle to 160c (so the nozzle is closest to it's extruding temp without filament coming out)
2. Auto home and note the amount that the probe raises when it's finished homing. Sometimes it's 5mm sometimes it's 10mm or it could be completely different depending on what it's set in the firmware but always home it to find that position that the Z is in (it will be displayed on the LCD).
3. Go into the settings and set the z offset to something low like -5.0. Save and Home again. Your z offset (-5.0) will be added to your z homing. If the original was 10mm then the total number after setting the z offset to -5.0 will be 15mm.
4. Go into the Motion menu, select move Z axis, and choose the .01 movement and move it to the value it was offset by when you homed it the first time (you should be left with the 5mm you set the z offset to).
VERY IMPORTANT, DO NOT SET IT TO 0, IT WILL CRASH INTO YOUR BED!
5. This is when you want to take your piece of paper and adjust accordingly as you can now move below the original 0 of the Z-axis by moving the knob counter-clockwise.
6. Subtract the number you get when the paper feels right from 5.0 and you have your z-offset. (it still might have to be slightly adjusted while printing but at least you're one step closer to a perfect level).
There was no consensus on the internet on this subject outside of resetting in Marlin firmware and I didn't feel like re-compiling so after messing with it I stumbled across this solution by myself. I tried to explain this the best that I could and I hope it helps someone that is having the same problem.
You can go to zero z axis. Then use z offset in - direction to paper. Hit set then save. As z offset moves it down past 0 safety stop.
@@dbvfx8628 Thank you! This makes perfect sense and is a way to dance around recompiling the firmware youself !. Having a working one the , i still will try to recompile, but i have a safety net for when i am totally lost and can go back to the working one ;-).
I've watched this like 10 times over the last couple years. you explain this very clearly. thank you
You're very welcome!
Finally, a BLTouch video that shows you A) what the Z offset is B) how to find what it should be and C) how to actually set it in the menus.
Thanks man.
hello , i cannot set the offset to negative direction , what should i do, thanks
if you have the same problem that i did, setting the z offset will actually lower the nozzle, so you can just test with the paper from that menu.
M211 S0 - Switch off soft endstops .. This allows you to go below the Z .. M211 S1 to put them back on, i did it in my touchscreen menu on btt tft3.5 you can also do this in terminal on your pc or octoprint
@@TechGuyNelly Where in the touchscreen menu is that under?
@@MavSoloFPV in the terminal menu it's only on the big tree tech screen it has a custom display menu
How to “unlock” negative Z axis? I searched in the configuration.h but cand find how…
I'm not following you here. I have same exact printer, with the BL Touch on. When I hit Auto-Home I get x,y,z= 13.7. When I then go to lower the Z axis it grabs the paper grab at +2.0mm. So then what should my Z-axis offset be set to then? I know my magic z axis # is -3.5mm but I don't see how I would of gotten that from your video logic flow. BTW where did you get your firmware from and can you share the link? I'm running the Ender 3 Pro with the MBv4.2.2 and the BL Touch v3.1.
Far and away the best video I have seen to this point explaining the operation of the BL touch. I dont have an ender, have a Voxelab Aquila and have been trying to find info. This gets me a lot closer to understanding the objective. Appreciate it much - thanks.
Someone explain it very well.
Without any Extras- or Trash Phrase.
Most other Videos literally Bad....very Bad.
and now the twist. 1. home your printer (so bl-touch is touching the center of the bed). 2. print something square in the bed center like 10x10x1mm square with an ironed top layer for smoothness. 3. while the bed is still hot and the print is still there, touch the center of the printed square with the bl-touch, noting the z-distance where the sensor stopped. Subtract 1mm (the expected height of your printed part) - and that's your z-offset. Very fast and much more precise than a paper method
This is so ridiculous. Like how is this any easier than just levelling the bed manually? I
feel like more potential points of error have been added
Thank you. The Creality instructions completely suck and the screens on the instructions are outdated for this variant of firmware. Thanks so much!
Dusted off my ender 3 pro with bl touch years later and your video jogged my memory to get the perfect first layer
i've never understood why this is so hard for people to explain, thank you, super straight forward.
Fantastic explanation, I've watched a number of video's and you've explained in 7.5 min what others have trouble doing in 30min.
Good explanation. Incidentally, where did you get your remote control box setup from please, it could solve my problems. TIA. Bob
thanks a lot , best video that explain Bltouch, good job
I have a question. When I started it set my Z to 10. I followed your video and found to adjust to -1.5 and saved the settings. When I hit auto home it set the Z to 11.5. What happened?
I am very new at 3d printing. I've only had my Ender 3 for a week. I wish that the instructions that came with my BLTouch referenced anything about this z-offset! I installed my BLTouch at the same time I installed a removable magnetic bed. Nothing would stick to the bed. I was talking with the seller of the bed about returning the item as I didn't think it worked when I came across this video. This video is exactly what the issue was! After a few minutes messing with the settings, which were a little different for my Ender 3 v2 and firmware, I am printing my first test and it works great! Thanks a million!
The petsfang works with the bracket, I just needed to snip a little corner of the mounting bracket of the petsfang
like the comment before me ive been on fb groups discord and searched the web, your demonstration has explained it in great laymans terms and for a novice i thank you.
Thxx for this tutorial. I’ve started to get into 3d printing with my ender 3 but I couldn’t get my z ofsett right
thank you, finally
Thanks!! My ender had bee in storage for a bit I couldn't remember how I leveled it before. Great primer
You are my savior man. Thank you so much. Very didactic explanation
I have been fighting my new ender 3 all day because I didn't understand this. Thank you
I received my CR Touch from Amazon on July 30 and could not find any useful information on why the nozzle was riding so high off the bed until I found this video on Oct 26.
Countless videos, articles and forums were of no help. Either I didn't know what they were talking about or I couldn't see what they were doing in the video.
This video is excellent in that you can actually see what your doing on your panel while explaining what and why your doing it. 👍
Thanks!
Thanks you this show exactly what I needed to see.
I don't have "probe z offset" in my settings. I don't have "configuration". What did I miss?
same
Thanks for that explanation
Thanks for being on youtube
I LOVE YOU SOOO FREAKING MUCH'
I hAD THIS THING FOR 3 YRS AND JUST NOW FIXING IT TYSM
THANK YOU SO MUCH THIS HELPED ME ON MY ENDER 3 PRO
3:18 is what you came for
Great explanation, I will be installing a bl touch along with the skr mini e3 v2 soon and this video has made setting the offset much more clear. Thank you!!
Thanks for the feedback! I make these videos for our discord server group, but I leave them on YT as public in case someone else finds them. Glad you did!
cheule follow up on the bltouch install. I followed your guide and everything is working great! Cheers!
PERFECT EXPLANATION BROTHER! i looked at 100 different reddit posts and nobody explained it like you did, much thanks!! ❤❤❤❤
thanks man u save my life
Perfect. Thanks... so many other crap videos out there
Question: With how much is based on this parameter, why don't we adjust Z-zero to actual zero? Why do we zero in on a physical offset away from the bed? Kinda like, if I want to lay down a layer at 0.15mm, wouldn't it be preferable if it did that at actual 0.15mm above the bed, instead of 0.15mm + "roughly the thickness of a folded piece of paper when it drags an adequate bit on the nozzle by feel"? Or even say 0.15mm + "0.2mm as adjusted with a feeler gauge"? - Why do we use this zero-is-nowhere-near-zero physical offset? If the smallest layers printed were 1+mm thick I'd get it, but this offset is taller than some common details-oriented layer heights.
This exactly. This is inaccurate as 0 on the z-axis should be when the nozzle is touching the bed. Everyone who is following this video is doing it wrong.
Omg thank youuuuu I’ve been struggling for hours trying to figure that out.
Thanks, this really helped
My BLTouch Marlin software won't let me go to negative Z dimension. Hmmm.
Edit - My version of BLTouch Marlin as of Mid-April 2022 had an Advanced settings area under the probe menu item. Will post a video once I get it working correctly.
Also check my video description for a way to temporarily unlimit axis.
Lol bro i tried printing with it without the z offset i was clueless on this thanks so much
Oh man, this video is AMAZING. Thank you so much!
Thank you. I've been trying for about a year to find how to do this properly. Your video explains whats going on perfectly.
Is this the same for a ender 3 v2 neo?
I followed a ton of long-winded videos and could not get my z-offset dialed in to save my life. Followed your method and prints are coming out FANTASTIC after a few minutes of dialing it in.
Thanks so much, owe you a beer haha
Just don't make it a Corona!
Thank you! Quality content and easy explanation of what exactly z offset is.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, lots of tutorials miss this or don't explain it as well as you!
You solve my main problem on 3d printing. 🤟🏻
Thank you for the clear and concise explanation. Most people just try to impress the viewer with their vast knowledge rather than teach at the level of a newbie. I appreciate that... Be well...
The issue I’m finding is none of these settings save and I have to go back in and re set the z offset to -2.3 every time I want to print. I get the confirmation beep on save but it doesn’t seem to do anything. Printing via usb w cura. Wish I could just make the setting in cura but being that it’s over .x it doesn’t let me.
Once you change the offset, go through the printer menus and “save settings to eeprom” or a similar wording depending on your UI version. Issuing a M500 command into Marlin with a terminal will also save settings.
The distance between the trigger point of the probe and nozzle (known as the Z-offset) is the distance between the nozzle and whatever shim you're using (a sheet of paper in this case) and the thickness of the shim. Regular paper is 0.1mm thick so that needs to be added to the measurement to get the Z-offset.
I know this video is 2 years old and you might not see this, but I'm using a cr touch and cant seem to get past 0 for the z offset. Is there any way you can help me out. I havent found any useful information online
Check the video description on how to go below zero.
An absolute Saint. Thank you for sharing this. I was wondering why no matter what I was doing it felt like I was still not using it correctly.
Legend, helped no end. Thank you.
An old video but still relevant! Question, what do you do with the thumbscrews before setting the Z stop? Tighten so the springs are compressed?
The springs should be halfway compressed
Great video, just remember to heat your bed before you do this. That temp can make a big difference. Thanks for the reminder on Z-Levelling :D