I found an easier way to measure nozzle to probe offset. I just cut one piece of cardboard to the size of the print bed, than secure it to the bed with clips. Than I manually deployed the probe and slowly moved Z axis until the pin barely touches the cardboard and I marked the exact spot with a pen. In the next step I retract the probe and slowly moved the Z axis up. Just enough to have the nozzle punching a little mark at the cardboad. Than I just moved the bed down and got a nice print of 2 points to measure it with the calipers without any hassle. I hope this helps others. I love your content.
dont bother with rulers, cardboard, graph paper, etc. you have filament in the nozzle. just extrude a dot on the bed to mark the position of the nozzle, then jog x&y to put the deployed probe right on top of that dot and note the change in x and y. that's your xy offset.
I can't even thank you enough for all the help you have provided with all of your videos. I honestly don't know what I would have done without you and your videos! Thank you so much again and again!
I've just started 3d printing a month ago with my stock E3 Pro, and to be honest the first couple of runs I had were really rough for me. Thank you so much for your guides as I've grown really fond of using my printer alot more. Thank you for putting time and effort to teaching Noobs like me to better use my printer.
You sir just made me save an amount of time that has no other equal but my gratitude to you. Thank you so much for the clarity of your video. State of the art.
I really liked your instructions. The problem I finally figured out was I needed to add a little weight to the probe. I used a small rubber washer used on archery strings to add just enough weight to the shaft (that was designed to be metal) so it would drop properly and ON TIME! Once that was fixed it is running very nice! Thanks again!
works perfect on my home rebuild tronxy x3 with Marlin 2.0. After flashing the tronxy firmware i had a lot of issues to get marlin to work gladley there are a lot of yuotube chanels to refer to including al your films about the subject. Thanks for that It works now perfect. Better then the original x3.
As someone new to auto bed leveling, this video was very, very well made and useful! Thank you so very much for your help in clarifying this process, hopefully I'll be up and running with a BL Touch on my CR-10 S5 soon. Cheers!
Very nice! I've been using paper along with the nozzle and touch tip to mark dots, connect them, then just measure the distance on the paper. I have unsteady hands so it became my workaround 👍
Tip for measuring: Lower the nozzle to about 3mm above the bed so you can fit a ruler (or angle square) under the tip; draw a line perpendicular to the edge of the bed; do the same for the tip of the BLTouch. Do this for both X and Y. You can now easily and precisely measure the distance between the lines drawn on the bed.
Tape a piece of paper to the bed. Lower the nozzle all the way into the paper and write down the XY coordinates. Now raise the nozzle back up. It should leave a small dimple in the paper. Use a marker to put a spot on the dimple so it's easier to see. Now move the print head so the probe is directly over the dot. Write down this second set of coordinates. Now subtract the second set of coords from the first set and it will leave you with your XY probe offset.
@@all3n1k It wouldnt matter where you did it, as long as you compare the coordinates with nozzle and probe over exactly the same spot. it could be near the edge if you wanted.. It might be convenient if you have an inductive probe to use an object the size of the probe head and mark or drill the center. Those probes are pretty big diameter so its quite hard to eyeball the center of it. In the end the offset doesnt need to be THAT accurate
Started following the steps, then realised that I was back a version and this motivated me to upgrade from 2.0.6 to 2.0.7. Once I had done this, I found the process pretty simple. Definitely an improvement on the struggles that I was having previously with trying to babystep. This process is easy and quick enough that running it when I change nozzle sizes will be a breeze.
La página de este tipo es oro puro. Yo estoy aprendiendo mucho y está impresionante todas las herramientas para probar diferentes valores. Superrecomendado.
Thank you very much for covering the Wizard probe as requested, the whole video was very informative and explained other things I didn't know. Thank you again for help and service you provide, and for the little shout out, much appreciated.
OMG dude your the best Ive been compiling marlin for days and finally you advice on how to manually input the offsets fixed my problem marlin wouldn't apply the offset in firmware but the software fix worked!!!
This would've video been extremely helpful a few weeks ago. The best thing that I've learned is: if you're nozzle is too far from the build plate when printing, decrease (into the negatives if needed) the nozzle to probe z offset, and increase it if it's too close
So as a general rule, your Z offset should almost always be negative (unless you have a dedicated Z-off switch AND an ABL probe, and even then, depending on how your bed is shaped/warped and how much you've tightened your leveling screws, it may still cause issues). For most people, they disconnect the Z-limit switch and reconnect the ABL probe to it. This means your nozzle will crash into the build surface/bed since the printer doesn't know it's at the top/bottom of the build volume. Not good, since that tends to warp beds.
@@whoofianbrony8804 I am very much trying to work out how to use both. I want end stop for distance, and CrTouch for warping. Can't find any guide that soecificially let you keep the end stop. Everyone I found says to dusconnect it instead.
Amazing! i installed an SKR Mini E3 V1.2, compile the firmware for the BLTouch and have been using it for months. Never new the Wizard even existed till i saw this video and sure enough, its enabled! Worked like a charm, thanks! Must have done something right when I made it lol
I believe the z offset wizard expects you to lower the nozzle until it touches the bed and not some paper-thick distance from it. If you look at the values on the wizard at the moment you press "done" and look at the calculated value it puts on the z-offset value, you can see it doesn't account for any thickness added by the paper nor could it since there is no place to tell it how thick the paper you're using is. I think the correct way to use the wizard is to either lower the nozzle until it touches the bed, or do it like you did but then you have to go to the value the wizard put on the z offset and subtract the thickness of the paper. So if it puts -2.25 you change it to -2.45 it the paper is 0.2 mm thick.
If this was the case the nozzle would have been moved closer to the bed in the example case, but the nozzle was moved farther from the bed because even with the wizard it was too close. The wizard has some error because each filament will want a diffrent z-offset for best possible results. You could end up both having to move the nozzle closer or farther. It's also not really possible to tell if a nozzle is just touching the bed or pressing into it with frame flex taking up the extra distance. Essentially resulting in setting the nozzle too low whereas with the paper you can tell immediately on contact.
@@nocare Hi. Referring to my example, the wizard puts -2.25 with the nozzle being at 0.2 mm from the bed but it thinks it is touching it. So you put it at -2.45 because that's where it actually is. Do it like this and after configuration move the z to 0.2 mm then take a 0.2 mm shim and measure it and you'll see it's spot on.
@@xXxGuilhermeB My point is if that was necessary then in the video after the wizard had been run, 'teaching tech' would have moved the nozzle closer to the bed when seeing the results from the test print. However the nozzle ended up too close and had to be moved even farther away. My point being getting the exact offset is not the desired result. Getting a good print is. Your method does not guarantee or even probabilistically improve the chances of a good print result on the test print. Therefore its unnecessary and likely worse than leaving the paper thickness in. Since the nozzle will likely have to be moved away from the bed.
@xXxGuilhermeB I think you are correct because he was already heating the nozzle and bed so it should be the distance where the nozzle makes contact with the bed. When we use a piece of paper or feeler gauge, it's usually because the nozzle is cold and we are leaving room for expansion of the nozzle when it's heated to temperature.
I use the klipper paper method with cold bed and nozzle, and adjust while making test prints like yours. Typically my vocano hotend expands 150 microns. Thanks for the video. Finally marlin has this Wizard too.
I work with industrial robots, and we have pin checks or TCP checks installed. When we have a collision (this is actually not that rare) we can take the worktool to the pin check and adjust accordingly. Now I can see that having a pin check to travel to would be complicated, printing one should not be. So for FINE tuning, we could print a pin/pyramid (any pointy object) and then with the wizard drive x-y-z until the probe is just touching the tip of the pin/pyramid. Marlin would need ti integrate the test print pin/pyramid, however then once you move the bltouch pin to the tip of the pin/pyramid marlin should be able to auto calculate the offset.
Very clear and well put together guide that I direct others to frequently. However, I always have to preface that they need to account for the thickness of the gauge that they are using to set the offset. I also explain that when the z axis is moved to zero, the nozzle should just be touching the build plate and not pressing on it.
Looks to me like it would be easier to set the offset by homing all axis. Your x,y DROs will read 0,0 then use a sharpie to make an x under the tip of the nozzle then jog over until your probe is over the marked x on then read your offsets directly off the x,y DRO on the LCD.
Great video, helped me a lot. I had some problems measuring the Y Offest. If you measur the X Offset and the absolute distance between the tip of the Probe (diagonal) and the nozzle you can calculate the y offset with pythagoras: Y Offset = sqrt( X^2 - diagonal distance^2)
Without wizard you basically first set your offset to 0 (or default value) Then you home all axes and move the z-axis to 0mm. Now you can adjust your offset with real-time change over the 'bed-leveling' menu, and save to eeprom. So the core function of the wizard is not that 'new', but it is a really good idea! It combines different steps together to make it as easy as possible for beginners, without having to dial trough every menu
I just dial it in during a first layer, I can get it a lot more accurate that way. If you enable babystepping (and maybe something else too) you can change the Z-offset by double clicking the dial while printing. It's very easy and accurate.
Sweet. I upgraded last week using your instructions, for ender 3 and BL touch. But had "A LOT" of trial and error on the leveling. One Issue I had was with Safe Homing. I could not get it below what was 0. Also, I discovered that I had the whole bed so low, it was very level, but so low, that it could not reach. So I raised the screws 2 turn all the way around, and found it was in a workable range.
Greetings from Australia. This is how I calculate my x and y probe offsets. I take off my PEI plate and tape a piece of graph paper with mm lines, taking care to get it aligned squarely Then the PEI plate goes back on the magnetic bed Then I raise the z axis and lightly touch the tip of the nozzle and the probe with stamp pad ink. Then I lower the nozzle until it just touches the paper, then I deploy the probe. The raise the z axis and observe the graph paper. With luck there will be two ink spots on the graph paper. Remove it from the printer and with a set square align the top of the square with the nozzle point, keeping within the lines on the graph paper. Slide the square to the left until the right angle side of the square touches the probe point. Measure that distance along the top of the square. If it’s to the left and in front of the nozzle it’s a minus reading. Now for the y probe point. The y offset is the measurement along the left side of the right angle triangle, ie the distance below the x offset line. Once again if this is in front of the nozzle, it’s a minus. Enter these two values in the x and y offsets in the Marlin FW. And remember. If you change a nozzle or upgrade your hardware, or remove and replace your touch, then you have to do this again. I just installed a Micro Swiss NG direct drive so I recalculated the values.
I find it difficult to observe the "squish" while printing, so to fine tune the Z offset I print a single layer square. Once the print is finished I measure how thick it is with digital calipers, then calculate any adjustment needed to correct the thickness to match the first layer height. For example if I am printing with 0.2mm layer height and I get a thickness of 0.16mm, I then adjust the Z offset by +0.04mm. The next print should be be dead on (within the accuracy limits) the layer height.
I find a piece of old fashioned graph paper works for measuring ABL offset. Drop the nozzle on to a square mart it record where the pin touches and count the squares. Simple
I thought of an easy way to measure the XY offset of probe to nozzle using 1/2 inch foam board. Cut foam to reach under the nozzle and hotend. Square the foam edge to the bed front. Lower Z to press into the foam (COLD HOTEND and BED). The hotend will make an impression. Mark the probe location with pencil or other marking device. Now it is easy to measure the foam markings for XY offset. The foam is soft so lowering Z you will allow both hotend and probe touching the foam. Hope this helps
Thanks for sharing, I'm having a lot of issues with the Auto leveling on my tronxy xy2 pro, I think I'll try flashing it to Marlin to try your recommendations, great video!
My method with a BL Touch as they fix some bugs with the wizard: 1. Preheat bed/nozzle, home and move x/y to the center of the build plate. 2. In BL Touch menu, deploy BL Touch. 3. Slowly lower Z until probe is touching the bed, and note the height. 3a. Move nozzle to where probe was, using the known x/y offset values. 4. Slowly lower Z until nozzle is touching the bed, and note the second height. 5. Do math to determine difference from probe end to nozzle end. As noted in video, this number should be negative. 6. Enter this value as Z Probe Offset. 7. Happy first layers. EDIT: I forgot step 3a. Depending on how warped your bed is, it could make all the difference.
I think the live nozzle height adjustment is great. I have an ender 3 pro and am using a 5 by 5 grid. It does slow down the start of a print but I think it is worth it. Do not use an even number.
I have never gotten a good z-offset on my printer, I have scratched the hell out of my bed but now I do it differently. I used a thick piece of card paper, my callipers said 0.3mm thickness. Heated bed and nozzle to printing temp, adjusted offset till I could feel a bit of resistance between the nozzle and paper, but could still slide the paper under the nozzle. added the thickness of the paper to the offset to bring the nozzle lower, if done correctly the nozzle should be touching the bed without the X carriage fowling to one side. eg. -3.20 - 0.3 = -3.5 Z offset and then baby step during printing if its too close. I did this and for the first time had really good layer adhesion to the bed, I am going to do this again with some feeler gauges for more accuracy as I was getting a bit of elephants footing, I could either try compensating for it or try to raise the nozzle a bit more.
I've always assumed when you set the Z offset through the wizard, you'd measure to the bed itself. In your video, you measure to a piece of paper. I don't know how they'd know, but this must already be accounted for in Marlin because measuring to paper works. How do they know how thick it is? I also disable the endstops (M211 S0) before the probing wizard or I wasn't able to get low enough. Just gotta remember to reenable them (M211 S1) when I'm done! Thanks for the great videos, they've been a huge help!
Because a sheet of standard copy paper is between 4 & 5 thou so using this method you would get it within at least 1 thousands of an inch which is more precise than the printer is
Hi, friend. I have had problems setting the z-offset correctly on my biqu bx. It seems like the auto leveling probe is not helping me. In some places on the bed it seems to be going well but At other points the nozzle is very close to the bed. And in other parts very separate. I have also manually leveled the 4 corners using the manual leveling wizard and the 4 points They look perfect, but when printing is where the problems arise. My printer is new and I haven't made the first print yet. It has me very frustrated and I don't know what else to do. Help me please
If you're having trouble with offsets for ABL, the piezo disc leveling system installed on your hot end eliminates the need for offsets. Just like the CR6SE it uses the nozzle as the probe so no offset needed. Just another way around having to calculate pesky offsets.
Hi, thanksfor all those very helpfull video ! , I have an artillery X2, i'v put a PEI on the glass, do you know how much more degrees I should put to compensate the glass? thank you
@@boggisthecat That is true when you are manually leveling a bed. But for the Z offset, you want that to be the ACTUAL distance from the end of the probe to the bed. You then set your first layer height in the slicer.
you are close. if you use paper to land the nozzle, then you need to use paper during z probe homing as well, or there will be a nozzle_to_probe(z) error approximately equal to the thickness of the paper. which btw if you use printer paper is actually 0.05mm not 0.1mm. this is a point which most people do not get. but then again most people don't realise the error as they eventually eliminate it during babystep "fine tuning" after the fact. this paper thickness error becomes absorbed inside the nozzle_to_probe offset z value. but then people can't figure out when their 20.00mm tall calibration cubes come out as 20.05mm.... if paper is used to land the nozzle, it must be used to trigger the probe as well during homing. after using paper for both the nozzle and the probe, z_home_pos should be set in Marlin config to 0.05. this is so that after homing is done, z height reads correctly as 0.05 instead of 0. most people do not do this so when they home, z reads at 0 when in fact there is a paper thickness worth of gap between the bed and nozzle. so when layer 1 0.20mm starts, the nozzle is actually at 0.25mm and the first layer has poor adhesion and you end up babystepping down and making nozzle_to_probe(z) more negative. if you dont do z_home_pos, then you will have systematic error in the height of your prints, such as the calibration cube example i gave--but for most people i think it will not be an issue.
@@suivzmoi All of this, great info! Though, I have never had a piece of paper be that thin. I always measure whatever paper I use and standard printer paper has always been between .09 and .11 for me. I suck and using the eyeball method for adjusting babystepping... so I try to get my Z offset bang-on when setting it.
I agree. I was quite excited to see a video on this as most information is plain wrong re setting z offset especially where probes are concerned. Unfortunately as soon as I saw the paper.. I was pretty disappointed.. not to mention hearing the words squish. the z offset should set the nozzle so that z=0 just touches the bed.. nothing more nothing less. The slicer sets the height of the first layer and calculates the required amount of filament to be pushed through to achieve the set width and height correctly. Therefore if you set the first layer to 0.32 it should measure 0.32. you don't squish it.. that's the slicers job to work out. If it's meant to be 0.32 then it should measure it. As Aaron F said, the paper thickness should be taken into account, or better still use a metal feeler gauge of a known thickness and add that thickness to the z offset so z=0 is correct. Another thing to consider is that spring mounted beds move easily when setting the. Z Offset so when using a metal feeler gauge it really only has to faintly touch it, otherwise it's likely that the bed will move a fraction and throw the measurement out anyway. I always print a skirt and that skirt is measured to ensure my first layer is just right as set in the slicer. There is a good argument for solid bed mounts with mesh levelling and as a side issue.. 4 point levelling is a big culprit for warping beds. 3 point won't warp it
Hi Michael, thank you for great content, as a beginner with a Creality 3 V2 I've learnt a great deal from you. I've added the BLTouch, and seems to be OK, still need to double check. My question is on the instructions it mentions adding the code for ABL, G29, where and how? After doing your X test print the bed doesn't go home, this has changed since adding BLTouch, do I need to added other code. Thank you again.
I'm unable to see the probe z wizard offset in the menu, I know you said that it's only compatible with the Marlin LCD interface. But can't that be enabled within the firmware? thanks
@@thoughtsofglought I have 2.0.8 compiled and I got the BLTouch working fine except ... the Z offset wizard indeed does not show in the Marlin menu. Yes I have #define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD. I can't find any more info on getting it to show up in the Marlin menu tree.
@@thoughtsofglought thanks for replying. Yea I've watched a bunch of videos and seen where it is supposed to be ... but it ain't there. I'm pretty familiar with modding the config files and compiling Marlin, but it ain't in the final menu system. If anyone knows the secret please let me (us) know.
I was googling for the G-code which would provide me the current Z-offset. It seems there isn’t one yet. As the menu of the CR-5 Pro H doesn’t have a z-offset adjustment, it would have been helpful to then adjust the difference from that point.
When measuring the Z-offset, the thickness of the paper needs to be included. Typical sheets of paper are 0.1mm thick. If that's not done the first layer will be 5 layers off. (at 0.020mm / layer)
I really don t understand why on marlin 2.0.7.1 the auto bed leveling now turned in a sort of a manual mesh bed leveling. I watched teaching tech s new video that explains about the z probe offset wizard and i said.. Let s flash this new firmware on my skr v2 aswell, and i did. Now after i set my z probe offset(i own a bltouch and yes i tried setting the offset with the wizard and with other methods that i saw on yt) the bl touch doesn t compensate the uneven bed(like it did on previous firmware when you just had to set the z offset only "one" time with the babystep and boom the leveling was done by the probe) but now after you set the z probe offset, you have to run a leveling gcode and manually compensate for uneven surface. (you can see at the end of teaching tech s video 2 days ago, the procedure at min 9:03 So practically i have to dial in manually and without any precision( cuz if i level one corner...i will fuck up the opposite one)
The Z Offset wizard homes and then says "Probing Z Reference" at this point get a feeler gauge under the probe before it hits the bed. Paper, brass, stainless ruler, a strip of PEI, anyhting works but it's best if it's relatively incompressible. Thickness *does not matter* if you get it under the probe. Now when you come to set the Z offset so it grabs the paper, it's automatically accounted for the thickness of the feeler you used. This should eliminate the need for *most* of the tuning. At least for me on glass, it's giving me really accurate and repeatable first layers without having to babystep. HOWEVER I am setting the offset at printing temperature becasue the thermal expansion of the nozzle and block is enough to skew this, so YMMV, but getting the probe in on the Z reference means Z0 is on the bed and Z0.2 is 0.2 off the bed which is a really good place start tweaking first layer heights from. I found the do it cool and babystep method was ok for PLA, but it was really awkward getting a good pet-G first layer.
nice but i dont' get the "new feature" . It something we are already doing since the introduction of ABL. The real feature that no one is testing and i can't make it work is the assisted bed leveling/tramming....it should tell you exactly how many turns to give to each bed screws...that's a great idea!
I’ve had nothing but problems with the BL touch with the marlin firmware. I dont use it anymore. I’m going to give it another shot now that they’ve updated the z offset settings.
Not sure why I never see this technique. I set my X/Y offset for the probe by printing a right angle (L shape), where the intersection point is the center of the printer bed. I then manually move the sensor with tip extracted until the tip is directly over the intersection. I use the new coordinates to calculate the x/y offsets.
Good morning, I have a problem. When you do the point check on the bed, on the right side, you get out of it, until it stops at the end of the x-axis. Put the points that you put always comes out. I have the probe to the left of the nozzle and to the left it does well, and in front and behind as well. I guess I must have something wrong with Configuration.h but I can't figure out what it is. I appreciate your help in advance.
Thank you for all your useful videos. In my case, I don't have the old Marlin menu anymore. I recently upgraded to the BTT TFT35 V2.0, which doesn't have Marlin emulation mode. Is the z offset wizard strictly limited to the character LCD, or is it actually a GCode command? I could use the TFT with a custom Gcode command in this case. Edit: It's pretty easy to use the TFT to get the offset configured, actually. You can just jog the Z after homing, get the Z axis value (negative value) once the paper stops slipping, and save that to the EEPROM from the TFT. That works for me!
When you adjust z using baby steps at the end of the video, do you have to add that amount to the probe z offset or does it do it itself when you store the settings?
Thank you for the video, but I find I have to readjust my calibration frequently. I am sure to save settings each time, so am confused as to why this happens. Moreover, my unlevel bed does not seem to be taken into account, and therefore the middle of the bed is highest (and therefore squished most), and is not being rectified. Does anyone have suggestions to fix this?
Hello there fellow printermans For many days now im trying to figure out an issue with bl touch.Z axis moves( like it's trying to level the bed) while i print but it doesnt get it right.In some parts of the bed surface,nozzle prints to low and vice versa. I tried M48 test,results are okay and the X axis is almost perfectly calibrated. At Cura i use the M29 after M28.Also i tried M420 and there was no difference. Except that i haven't done any changes at Cura's g.code. My printer is the Ender 3 pro with btt skr V2.0 and i use bl touch smart 3.1. I have tried many marlin versions but the problem remains. For the love of god help me. Thanx ❤️
I have a great idea for a Probe Offset Wizard (not Z offset) which does not exist! It would be simple and save using a ruler to measure the distance between the BL/CR touch to nozzle. I don't know why this doesn't exist already, but maybe you could do it... 1: Press go and the printer prints a small bullseye or x, then it moves to the side and lowers the probe down to where it thinks it is set, and if it is not hitting the X; 2: you turn the knob for X and Y and the gantry moves .1 of a mm each click of the knob until you get the probe directly over the X. Done! Save settings. No need for eyeballing a ruler and you can get the offset 100% Perfect! Any dummy could do it!
One thing that has been puzzling me: if you set the nozzle to probe z offset using a piece of paper, wouldn't you then underestimate the value by the thickness of that paper (i.e. 0.1 mm)? Then when you slice a file to print with a fine first layer, say 0.1 mm, the slicer would add that layer height to what it thought was the "zero" z position resulting in the nozzle printing 0.2 mm above the buildplate and leading to adhesion issues?
Hi Micheal At 9:30 you mention babystepping, Im just compiling the lastest marling from github, using the example for Ender 3 V2. Baby stepping has quite a few additional settings. Example "BABYSTEP_MILLIMETER_UNITS" and "BABYSTEP_MULTIPLICATOR_Z". Would be nice if you could comment your recommended setup. Default is in steps, and if you switch from steps to milimeters, BE CAREFUL, default multiplicator_z is 40 (I understand 40mm).
can i use probe z-offset without abl? i just want to adjust z after changing nozzle without relevelling the bed, if i use baby stepping it doesnt store the value.
Marlin 2.0.7.2 isn't setting Z offsets correctly, the Marlin in your github 2.0.6.1-bugfix andwith your config is working really well for me on my EnderPro/V2 hybrid. Thanks for that.
Another great tutorial, thank you! Do you have any additional recommended resources for Marlin Firmware compiling? I ran through your tutorials for my Ender 5 Pro when I added an SKR Mini, BLTouch and TFT at the same time but I cannot get the firmware to recognize the BLTouch properly. I get errors and warnings every time I boot up the machine.
@@gt2scale I see you have edited your answer to include more info. In fact I use VSCode with the arduino extension for personal projects. I was just suggesting the Arduino IDE because its usually more beginner friendly (and it does work!). Unfortunately, I dont know how to help you further with specific setup, sorry.
Hi Michael, i'm struggling with ABL on my Ender 3. Everythings working almost fine, prints are not that good, but i work on it using your Calibration Guide ... thanks for that! But: I realised, since i have a BLTOUCH and no more Z-Offset-Switch installed, it is possible to manually drive my nozzle into the bed by using the motion-function on my printer. It may be a dumb question, but could i prevent that? Isn't there a safety option in marlin? Just to be clear: I do not intend to drive my nozzle into the bed, but the possibility alone makes me worried. For instance for Z-Offset-Calibration i accidentally used the 10mm-Option to bring my nozzle down and went to far. I searched on google for that problem but didn't find the right marlin function. Would be great if you know the trick. greetings
The ABL Tweak for X5SA (400mm models) is wrong (identical to the one for 300 model). One needs to replace the values 290 with 360 inside before using it.
I found an easier way to measure nozzle to probe offset.
I just cut one piece of cardboard to the size of the print bed, than secure it to the bed with clips.
Than I manually deployed the probe and slowly moved Z axis until the pin barely touches the cardboard and I marked the exact spot with a pen.
In the next step I retract the probe and slowly moved the Z axis up. Just enough to have the nozzle punching a little mark at the cardboad.
Than I just moved the bed down and got a nice print of 2 points to measure it with the calipers without any hassle.
I hope this helps others. I love your content.
dont bother with rulers, cardboard, graph paper, etc.
you have filament in the nozzle. just extrude a dot on the bed to mark the position of the nozzle, then jog x&y to put the deployed probe right on top of that dot and note the change in x and y. that's your xy offset.
@@suivzmoi Your method was the best! Thanks for the input.
@@suivzmoi I managed to get a tower on the way up that helped me hone in a bit on the z too :p
I was going crazy trying to get my unleveled bed calibrated. You sir, are a gift to humanity.
Question for you though. When your Z height was at 2.83 when the nozzle touched the bed, why was the Z offset -1.17?
I can't even thank you enough for all the help you have provided with all of your videos. I honestly don't know what I would have done without you and your videos! Thank you so much again and again!
I've just started 3d printing a month ago with my stock E3 Pro, and to be honest the first couple of runs I had were really rough for me. Thank you so much for your guides as I've grown really fond of using my printer alot more. Thank you for putting time and effort to teaching Noobs like me to better use my printer.
You sir just made me save an amount of time that has no other equal but my gratitude to you. Thank you so much for the clarity of your video. State of the art.
I really liked your instructions. The problem I finally figured out was I needed to add a little weight to the probe. I used a small rubber washer used on archery strings to add just enough weight to the shaft (that was designed to be metal) so it would drop properly and ON TIME! Once that was fixed it is running very nice! Thanks again!
works perfect on my home rebuild tronxy x3 with Marlin 2.0. After flashing the tronxy firmware i had a lot of issues to get marlin to work gladley there are a lot of yuotube chanels to refer to including al your films about the subject. Thanks for that It works now perfect. Better then the original x3.
As someone new to auto bed leveling, this video was very, very well made and useful! Thank you so very much for your help in clarifying this process, hopefully I'll be up and running with a BL Touch on my CR-10 S5 soon. Cheers!
Very nice! I've been using paper along with the nozzle and touch tip to mark dots, connect them, then just measure the distance on the paper. I have unsteady hands so it became my workaround 👍
Tip for measuring:
Lower the nozzle to about 3mm above the bed so you can fit a ruler (or angle square) under the tip; draw a line perpendicular to the edge of the bed; do the same for the tip of the BLTouch. Do this for both X and Y. You can now easily and precisely measure the distance between the lines drawn on the bed.
Tape a piece of paper to the bed. Lower the nozzle all the way into the paper and write down the XY coordinates. Now raise the nozzle back up. It should leave a small dimple in the paper. Use a marker to put a spot on the dimple so it's easier to see. Now move the print head so the probe is directly over the dot. Write down this second set of coordinates.
Now subtract the second set of coords from the first set and it will leave you with your XY probe offset.
@@slickstretch6391 this is after auto homing i assume?
@@all3n1k It wouldnt matter where you did it, as long as you compare the coordinates with nozzle and probe over exactly the same spot. it could be near the edge if you wanted.. It might be convenient if you have an inductive probe to use an object the size of the probe head and mark or drill the center. Those probes are pretty big diameter so its quite hard to eyeball the center of it.
In the end the offset doesnt need to be THAT accurate
the simpliest trick is to usesquared notebooks papers and use the line, thinnier is better
Started following the steps, then realised that I was back a version and this motivated me to upgrade from 2.0.6 to 2.0.7. Once I had done this, I found the process pretty simple.
Definitely an improvement on the struggles that I was having previously with trying to babystep. This process is easy and quick enough that running it when I change nozzle sizes will be a breeze.
Por fin alguien que explica bien en que consisten los parámetros. Gracias por tu video!!
La página de este tipo es oro puro. Yo estoy aprendiendo mucho y está impresionante todas las herramientas para probar diferentes valores. Superrecomendado.
Thank you very much for covering the Wizard probe as requested, the whole video was very informative and explained other things I didn't know.
Thank you again for help and service you provide, and for the little shout out, much appreciated.
OMG dude your the best Ive been compiling marlin for days and finally you advice on how to manually input the offsets fixed my problem marlin wouldn't apply the offset in firmware but the software fix worked!!!
This would've video been extremely helpful a few weeks ago. The best thing that I've learned is: if you're nozzle is too far from the build plate when printing, decrease (into the negatives if needed) the nozzle to probe z offset, and increase it if it's too close
So as a general rule, your Z offset should almost always be negative (unless you have a dedicated Z-off switch AND an ABL probe, and even then, depending on how your bed is shaped/warped and how much you've tightened your leveling screws, it may still cause issues). For most people, they disconnect the Z-limit switch and reconnect the ABL probe to it. This means your nozzle will crash into the build surface/bed since the printer doesn't know it's at the top/bottom of the build volume. Not good, since that tends to warp beds.
@@whoofianbrony8804 I am very much trying to work out how to use both. I want end stop for distance, and CrTouch for warping.
Can't find any guide that soecificially let you keep the end stop. Everyone I found says to dusconnect it instead.
Amazing! i installed an SKR Mini E3 V1.2, compile the firmware for the BLTouch and have been using it for months. Never new the Wizard even existed till i saw this video and sure enough, its enabled! Worked like a charm, thanks! Must have done something right when I made it lol
Good video! Especially helpful to show the configuration_adv.h setting required to save the live babystepping. Keep up the videos!
I believe the z offset wizard expects you to lower the nozzle until it touches the bed and not some paper-thick distance from it. If you look at the values on the wizard at the moment you press "done" and look at the calculated value it puts on the z-offset value, you can see it doesn't account for any thickness added by the paper nor could it since there is no place to tell it how thick the paper you're using is. I think the correct way to use the wizard is to either lower the nozzle until it touches the bed, or do it like you did but then you have to go to the value the wizard put on the z offset and subtract the thickness of the paper. So if it puts -2.25 you change it to -2.45 it the paper is 0.2 mm thick.
AARRRGGHHH OF COURSE!!! Bring this comment to the top.
If this was the case the nozzle would have been moved closer to the bed in the example case, but the nozzle was moved farther from the bed because even with the wizard it was too close. The wizard has some error because each filament will want a diffrent z-offset for best possible results. You could end up both having to move the nozzle closer or farther.
It's also not really possible to tell if a nozzle is just touching the bed or pressing into it with frame flex taking up the extra distance. Essentially resulting in setting the nozzle too low whereas with the paper you can tell immediately on contact.
@@nocare Hi. Referring to my example, the wizard puts -2.25 with the nozzle being at 0.2 mm from the bed but it thinks it is touching it. So you put it at -2.45 because that's where it actually is. Do it like this and after configuration move the z to 0.2 mm then take a 0.2 mm shim and measure it and you'll see it's spot on.
@@xXxGuilhermeB My point is if that was necessary then in the video after the wizard had been run, 'teaching tech' would have moved the nozzle closer to the bed when seeing the results from the test print.
However the nozzle ended up too close and had to be moved even farther away.
My point being getting the exact offset is not the desired result. Getting a good print is.
Your method does not guarantee or even probabilistically improve the chances of a good print result on the test print.
Therefore its unnecessary and likely worse than leaving the paper thickness in. Since the nozzle will likely have to be moved away from the bed.
@xXxGuilhermeB I think you are correct because he was already heating the nozzle and bed so it should be the distance where the nozzle makes contact with the bed. When we use a piece of paper or feeler gauge, it's usually because the nozzle is cold and we are leaving room for expansion of the nozzle when it's heated to temperature.
Perfect timing, bl touch just arrived and planning to follow your tutorial for upgrading the Sidewinder X1 to skr v1.4 turbo with RepRap .
I use the klipper paper method with cold bed and nozzle, and adjust while making test prints like yours. Typically my vocano hotend expands 150 microns. Thanks for the video. Finally marlin has this Wizard too.
Yes, I also do PROBE_CALIBRATE with klipper, but I always have to add around 0.2mm in the config file to get good adhesion
I'm still looking to pick a printer to convert full time to Klipper. CR-10 Max is the latest suspect.
I work with industrial robots, and we have pin checks or TCP checks installed. When we have a collision (this is actually not that rare) we can take the worktool to the pin check and adjust accordingly.
Now I can see that having a pin check to travel to would be complicated, printing one should not be.
So for FINE tuning, we could print a pin/pyramid (any pointy object) and then with the wizard drive x-y-z until the probe is just touching the tip of the pin/pyramid.
Marlin would need ti integrate the test print pin/pyramid, however then once you move the bltouch pin to the tip of the pin/pyramid marlin should be able to auto calculate the offset.
Very clear and well put together guide that I direct others to frequently. However, I always have to preface that they need to account for the thickness of the gauge that they are using to set the offset. I also explain that when the z axis is moved to zero, the nozzle should just be touching the build plate and not pressing on it.
Looks to me like it would be easier to set the offset by homing all axis. Your x,y DROs will read 0,0 then use a sharpie to make an x under the tip of the nozzle then jog over until your probe is over the marked x on then read your offsets directly off the x,y DRO on the LCD.
Great video, helped me a lot. I had some problems measuring the Y Offest. If you measur the X Offset and the absolute distance between the tip of the Probe (diagonal) and the nozzle you can calculate the y offset with pythagoras: Y Offset = sqrt( X^2 - diagonal distance^2)
Without wizard you basically first set your offset to 0 (or default value)
Then you home all axes and move the z-axis to 0mm.
Now you can adjust your offset with real-time change over the 'bed-leveling' menu, and save to eeprom.
So the core function of the wizard is not that 'new', but it is a really good idea!
It combines different steps together to make it as easy as possible for beginners, without having to dial trough every menu
I just dial it in during a first layer, I can get it a lot more accurate that way. If you enable babystepping (and maybe something else too) you can change the Z-offset by double clicking the dial while printing. It's very easy and accurate.
Agree. This is how I do it. Level the best I can then I set the Z while it's printing.
I love the bed levelling tool I use that waits above each level adjuster while you fine tune the Z then move on to the next at a button press.
Sometimes it takes just one person to explain thing clearly and succinctly, this time you did it.
Sweet. I upgraded last week using your instructions, for ender 3 and BL touch. But had "A LOT" of trial and error on the leveling.
One Issue I had was with Safe Homing. I could not get it below what was 0.
Also, I discovered that I had the whole bed so low, it was very level, but so low, that it could not reach. So I raised the screws 2 turn all the way around, and found it was in a workable range.
This tutorial just helped me solve weeks of troubleshooting. Thanks!
Did this yesterday. Of course the video comes out today
Had trouble with this like 10 hours ago. I'm sad
But you both have the satisfaction of overcoming your hurdles independently :)
Greetings from Australia. This is how I calculate my x and y probe offsets.
I take off my PEI plate and tape a piece of graph paper with mm lines, taking care to get it aligned squarely
Then the PEI plate goes back on the magnetic bed
Then I raise the z axis and lightly touch the tip of the nozzle and the probe with stamp pad ink. Then I lower the nozzle until it just touches the paper, then I deploy the probe.
The raise the z axis and observe the graph paper. With luck there will be two ink spots on the graph paper. Remove it from the printer and with a set square align the top of the square with the nozzle point, keeping within the lines on the graph paper. Slide the square to the left until the right angle side of the square touches the probe point. Measure that distance along the top of the square. If it’s to the left and in front of the nozzle it’s a minus reading. Now for the y probe point. The y offset is the measurement along the left side of the right angle triangle, ie the distance below the x offset line. Once again if this is in front of the nozzle, it’s a minus. Enter these two values in the x and y offsets in the Marlin FW.
And remember. If you change a nozzle or upgrade your hardware, or remove and replace your touch, then you have to do this again. I just installed a Micro Swiss NG direct drive so I recalculated the values.
Just got my Ender 3 pro. Your video's helped me alot. thanks
Best video and best explanation related to the probe offset :)
I find it difficult to observe the "squish" while printing, so to fine tune the Z offset I print a single layer square. Once the print is finished I measure how thick it is with digital calipers, then calculate any adjustment needed to correct the thickness to match the first layer height. For example if I am printing with 0.2mm layer height and I get a thickness of 0.16mm, I then adjust the Z offset by +0.04mm. The next print should be be dead on (within the accuracy limits) the layer height.
brilliant
I find a piece of old fashioned graph paper works for measuring ABL offset. Drop the nozzle on to a square mart it record where the pin touches and count the squares. Simple
I just got the geeetech abl, perfect timing:)
Even with a feeler gauge I got the best results by test printing little squares (just one) because even 0.02 made a difference
Another great video, and very well explained!
I thought of an easy way to measure the XY offset of probe to nozzle using 1/2 inch foam board. Cut foam to reach under the nozzle and hotend. Square the foam edge to the bed front. Lower Z to press into the foam (COLD HOTEND and BED). The hotend will make an impression. Mark the probe location with pencil or other marking device. Now it is easy to measure the foam markings for XY offset. The foam is soft so lowering Z you will allow both hotend and probe touching the foam. Hope this helps
I love it when people have time to make videos then don't bother making time to answer any of the questions that are asked.
Thanks for sharing, I'm having a lot of issues with the Auto leveling on my tronxy xy2 pro, I think I'll try flashing it to Marlin to try your recommendations, great video!
Great video! I'm having issues of the Z Offset for some time now!
Just did my ender 3 a few hours ago but this is much easier!
Excellent coverage Michael. I have a couple to do, this will help a lot. Cheers, JAYTEE
My method with a BL Touch as they fix some bugs with the wizard:
1. Preheat bed/nozzle, home and move x/y to the center of the build plate.
2. In BL Touch menu, deploy BL Touch.
3. Slowly lower Z until probe is touching the bed, and note the height.
3a. Move nozzle to where probe was, using the known x/y offset values.
4. Slowly lower Z until nozzle is touching the bed, and note the second height.
5. Do math to determine difference from probe end to nozzle end. As noted in video, this number should be negative.
6. Enter this value as Z Probe Offset.
7. Happy first layers.
EDIT: I forgot step 3a. Depending on how warped your bed is, it could make all the difference.
That's a really helpful tip, thanks.
Been doing exactly this for a couple years now. I even add that number to the firmware itself and recompile.
Yeah I also did exactly this. I never understood how measuring mid air with a caliper and my cavemen eyes should be accurate enough.
In my experience it should be 7. Test; 8. Swear; repeat 1 - 8.
just a point to make for (3.). you are supposed to lower Z until the probe is TRIGGERED, not just touching the bed.
Thank you very much for the guide! It was really easy to follow and the Z-Offset wizard is a saviour!
Great update off the Marlin SW
Great update Michael
Thanks for sharing :-)
Excellent video Michael.
I think the live nozzle height adjustment is great. I have an ender 3 pro and am using a 5 by 5 grid. It does slow down the start of a print but I think it is worth it. Do not use an even number.
Always an excellent video!
i wish i was an engineer, so i could understand your videos...
You could just print a single line plus (+) anywhere on the bed, move the nozzle to the center and measure from the lines.
I have never gotten a good z-offset on my printer, I have scratched the hell out of my bed but now I do it differently.
I used a thick piece of card paper, my callipers said 0.3mm thickness.
Heated bed and nozzle to printing temp,
adjusted offset till I could feel a bit of resistance between the nozzle and paper, but could still slide the paper under the nozzle.
added the thickness of the paper to the offset to bring the nozzle lower, if done correctly the nozzle should be touching the bed without the X carriage fowling to one side.
eg. -3.20 - 0.3 = -3.5 Z offset
and then baby step during printing if its too close.
I did this and for the first time had really good layer adhesion to the bed, I am going to do this again with some feeler gauges for more accuracy as I was getting a bit of elephants footing, I could either try compensating for it or try to raise the nozzle a bit more.
Confusing this, confusing that. What a rabbit hole i jumped into! I just wanted to print and have fun. I hope i have clarity and get it right. Smh.
Again a clear enough explanation for the dumb Gav (🐮) that I am. Thank you.
I've always assumed when you set the Z offset through the wizard, you'd measure to the bed itself. In your video, you measure to a piece of paper. I don't know how they'd know, but this must already be accounted for in Marlin because measuring to paper works. How do they know how thick it is?
I also disable the endstops (M211 S0) before the probing wizard or I wasn't able to get low enough. Just gotta remember to reenable them (M211 S1) when I'm done!
Thanks for the great videos, they've been a huge help!
Because a sheet of standard copy paper is between 4 & 5 thou so using this method you would get it within at least 1 thousands of an inch which is more precise than the printer is
Hi, friend. I have had problems setting the z-offset correctly on my biqu bx. It seems like the auto leveling probe is not helping me. In some places on the bed it seems to be going well but At other points the nozzle is very close to the bed. And in other parts very separate. I have also manually leveled the 4 corners using the manual leveling wizard and the 4 points They look perfect, but when printing is where the problems arise. My printer is new and I haven't made the first print yet. It has me very frustrated and I don't know what else to do. Help me please
Even the live babystep during printing helps in some spots on the bed but is still bad in other areas.
Excellent tutorial and website !
If you're having trouble with offsets for ABL, the piezo disc leveling system installed on your hot end eliminates the need for offsets. Just like the CR6SE it uses the nozzle as the probe so no offset needed. Just another way around having to calculate pesky offsets.
I just received such a kit for a future video :)
Hi, thanksfor all those very helpfull video ! , I have an artillery X2, i'v put a PEI on the glass, do you know how much more degrees I should put to compensate the glass? thank you
Do you not need to add an extra .1mm for the width of the paper?
The nozzle has to be slightly above the bed to work. The ‘paper thickness’ setting is approximately correct for a 0.4 mm nozzle.
@@boggisthecat That is true when you are manually leveling a bed. But for the Z offset, you want that to be the ACTUAL distance from the end of the probe to the bed. You then set your first layer height in the slicer.
you are close. if you use paper to land the nozzle, then you need to use paper during z probe homing as well, or there will be a nozzle_to_probe(z) error approximately equal to the thickness of the paper. which btw if you use printer paper is actually 0.05mm not 0.1mm. this is a point which most people do not get. but then again most people don't realise the error as they eventually eliminate it during babystep "fine tuning" after the fact. this paper thickness error becomes absorbed inside the nozzle_to_probe offset z value. but then people can't figure out when their 20.00mm tall calibration cubes come out as 20.05mm....
if paper is used to land the nozzle, it must be used to trigger the probe as well during homing. after using paper for both the nozzle and the probe, z_home_pos should be set in Marlin config to 0.05. this is so that after homing is done, z height reads correctly as 0.05 instead of 0. most people do not do this so when they home, z reads at 0 when in fact there is a paper thickness worth of gap between the bed and nozzle. so when layer 1 0.20mm starts, the nozzle is actually at 0.25mm and the first layer has poor adhesion and you end up babystepping down and making nozzle_to_probe(z) more negative. if you dont do z_home_pos, then you will have systematic error in the height of your prints, such as the calibration cube example i gave--but for most people i think it will not be an issue.
@@suivzmoi All of this, great info! Though, I have never had a piece of paper be that thin. I always measure whatever paper I use and standard printer paper has always been between .09 and .11 for me. I suck and using the eyeball method for adjusting babystepping... so I try to get my Z offset bang-on when setting it.
I agree. I was quite excited to see a video on this as most information is plain wrong re setting z offset especially where probes are concerned. Unfortunately as soon as I saw the paper.. I was pretty disappointed.. not to mention hearing the words squish. the z offset should set the nozzle so that z=0 just touches the bed.. nothing more nothing less. The slicer sets the height of the first layer and calculates the required amount of filament to be pushed through to achieve the set width and height correctly. Therefore if you set the first layer to 0.32 it should measure 0.32. you don't squish it.. that's the slicers job to work out. If it's meant to be 0.32 then it should measure it. As Aaron F said, the paper thickness should be taken into account, or better still use a metal feeler gauge of a known thickness and add that thickness to the z offset so z=0 is correct. Another thing to consider is that spring mounted beds move easily when setting the. Z Offset so when using a metal feeler gauge it really only has to faintly touch it, otherwise it's likely that the bed will move a fraction and throw the measurement out anyway. I always print a skirt and that skirt is measured to ensure my first layer is just right as set in the slicer. There is a good argument for solid bed mounts with mesh levelling and as a side issue.. 4 point levelling is a big culprit for warping beds. 3 point won't warp it
What firmware is being used and were do you get it
Hi Michael, thank you for great content, as a beginner with a Creality 3 V2 I've learnt a great deal from you. I've added the BLTouch, and seems to be OK, still need to double check. My question is on the instructions it mentions adding the code for ABL, G29, where and how?
After doing your X test print the bed doesn't go home, this has changed since adding BLTouch, do I need to added other code.
Thank you again.
You should add instructions for using M211 S0 to allow moving the printhead below 0.0 in those cases where that's needed.
You rock! This was awesome! Thank you so much
Thanks you are truly the best!!!!!
I'm unable to see the probe z wizard offset in the menu, I know you said that it's only compatible with the Marlin LCD interface. But can't that be enabled within the firmware? thanks
You need to make sure your on marlin 2.7.1 or higher and remove the // from "#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD" in Configuration_adv.h
@@thoughtsofglought I have 2.0.8 compiled and I got the BLTouch working fine except ... the Z offset wizard indeed does not show in the Marlin menu. Yes I have #define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD. I can't find any more info on getting it to show up in the Marlin menu tree.
@@nashme11 its under Configuration --> Advance Settings --> Probe offsets --> Z Probe Wizard if its not there then idk
@@thoughtsofglought thanks for replying. Yea I've watched a bunch of videos and seen where it is supposed to be ... but it ain't there. I'm pretty familiar with modding the config files and compiling Marlin, but it ain't in the final menu system. If anyone knows the secret please let me (us) know.
@@nashme11 do you have "#define SLIM_LCD_MENUS" Enabled?
Great vid. Can I ask how you changed the bed visualiser scale? I can't find anything on the web that will change it from 2mm.
I was googling for the G-code which would provide me the current Z-offset. It seems there isn’t one yet. As the menu of the CR-5 Pro H doesn’t have a z-offset adjustment, it would have been helpful to then adjust the difference from that point.
When measuring the Z-offset, the thickness of the paper needs to be included. Typical sheets of paper are 0.1mm thick. If that's not done the first layer will be 5 layers off. (at 0.020mm / layer)
There's a nozzle to probe offset? That explains a lot.
😂😂👍
I really don t understand why on marlin 2.0.7.1 the auto bed leveling now turned in a sort of a manual mesh bed leveling.
I watched teaching tech s new video that explains about the z probe offset wizard and i said.. Let s flash this new firmware on my skr v2 aswell, and i did.
Now after i set my z probe offset(i own a bltouch and yes i tried setting the offset with the wizard and with other methods that i saw on yt) the bl touch doesn t compensate the uneven bed(like it did on previous firmware when you just had to set the z offset only "one" time with the babystep and boom the leveling was done by the probe) but now after you set the z probe offset, you have to run a leveling gcode and manually compensate for uneven surface. (you can see at the end of teaching tech s video 2 days ago, the procedure at min 9:03
So practically i have to dial in manually and without any precision( cuz if i level one corner...i will fuck up the opposite one)
Another greats informative video. THANK YOU
The Z Offset wizard homes and then says "Probing Z Reference" at this point get a feeler gauge under the probe before it hits the bed. Paper, brass, stainless ruler, a strip of PEI, anyhting works but it's best if it's relatively incompressible. Thickness *does not matter* if you get it under the probe. Now when you come to set the Z offset so it grabs the paper, it's automatically accounted for the thickness of the feeler you used. This should eliminate the need for *most* of the tuning. At least for me on glass, it's giving me really accurate and repeatable first layers without having to babystep.
HOWEVER I am setting the offset at printing temperature becasue the thermal expansion of the nozzle and block is enough to skew this, so YMMV, but getting the probe in on the Z reference means Z0 is on the bed and Z0.2 is 0.2 off the bed which is a really good place start tweaking first layer heights from.
I found the do it cool and babystep method was ok for PLA, but it was really awkward getting a good pet-G first layer.
Great help. Thanks
nice but i dont' get the "new feature" . It something we are already doing since the introduction of ABL. The real feature that no one is testing and i can't make it work is the assisted bed leveling/tramming....it should tell you exactly how many turns to give to each bed screws...that's a great idea!
Is this wizard supported on the ender 3v2. I compiled a firmware with it enabled but can’t see any options to set it in the menu
Did you find any solutions for this? I am in the same seat as you..
I’ve had nothing but problems with the BL touch with the marlin firmware. I dont use it anymore. I’m going to give it another shot now that they’ve updated the z offset settings.
Not sure why I never see this technique. I set my X/Y offset for the probe by printing a right angle (L shape), where the intersection point is the center of the printer bed. I then manually move the sensor with tip extracted until the tip is directly over the intersection. I use the new coordinates to calculate the x/y offsets.
Awesome video thanks
Good morning, I have a problem. When you do the point check on the bed, on the right side, you get out of it, until it stops at the end of the x-axis. Put the points that you put always comes out. I have the probe to the left of the nozzle and to the left it does well, and in front and behind as well. I guess I must have something wrong with Configuration.h but I can't figure out what it is. I appreciate your help in advance.
Thank you for all your useful videos. In my case, I don't have the old Marlin menu anymore. I recently upgraded to the BTT TFT35 V2.0, which doesn't have Marlin emulation mode. Is the z offset wizard strictly limited to the character LCD, or is it actually a GCode command? I could use the TFT with a custom Gcode command in this case.
Edit: It's pretty easy to use the TFT to get the offset configured, actually. You can just jog the Z after homing, get the Z axis value (negative value) once the paper stops slipping, and save that to the EEPROM from the TFT. That works for me!
When you adjust z using baby steps at the end of the video, do you have to add that amount to the probe z offset or does it do it itself when you store the settings?
Thank you for the video, but I find I have to readjust my calibration frequently.
I am sure to save settings each time, so am confused as to why this happens.
Moreover, my unlevel bed does not seem to be taken into account, and therefore the middle of the bed is highest (and therefore squished most), and is not being rectified.
Does anyone have suggestions to fix this?
Hello there fellow printermans
For many days now im trying to figure out an issue with bl touch.Z axis moves( like it's trying to level the bed) while i print but it doesnt get it right.In some parts of the bed surface,nozzle prints to low and vice versa.
I tried M48 test,results are okay and the X axis is almost perfectly calibrated. At Cura i use the M29 after M28.Also i tried M420 and there was no difference. Except that i haven't done any changes at Cura's g.code.
My printer is the Ender 3 pro with btt skr V2.0 and i use bl touch smart 3.1. I have tried many marlin versions but the problem remains.
For the love of god help me.
Thanx ❤️
I have a great idea for a Probe Offset Wizard (not Z offset) which does not exist!
It would be simple and save using a ruler to measure the distance between the BL/CR touch to nozzle. I don't know why this doesn't exist already, but maybe you could do it...
1: Press go and the printer prints a small bullseye or x, then it moves to the side and lowers the probe down to where it thinks it is set, and if it is not hitting the X;
2: you turn the knob for X and Y and the gantry moves .1 of a mm each click of the knob until you get the probe directly over the X.
Done! Save settings. No need for eyeballing a ruler and you can get the offset 100% Perfect! Any dummy could do it!
Someone needs to do this!
Wow i wish i can do this to my Anet a8 plus 👀
Great information ! Thanks
super helpful!! thank you!!
One thing that has been puzzling me: if you set the nozzle to probe z offset using a piece of paper, wouldn't you then underestimate the value by the thickness of that paper (i.e. 0.1 mm)? Then when you slice a file to print with a fine first layer, say 0.1 mm, the slicer would add that layer height to what it thought was the "zero" z position resulting in the nozzle printing 0.2 mm above the buildplate and leading to adhesion issues?
Correct
Hi Micheal
At 9:30 you mention babystepping, Im just compiling the lastest marling from github, using the example for Ender 3 V2.
Baby stepping has quite a few additional settings.
Example "BABYSTEP_MILLIMETER_UNITS" and "BABYSTEP_MULTIPLICATOR_Z". Would be nice if you could comment your recommended setup.
Default is in steps, and if you switch from steps to milimeters, BE CAREFUL, default multiplicator_z is 40 (I understand 40mm).
Oh, now I can see you also have it, slightly above, set as default...
Great Video
can i use probe z-offset without abl? i just want to adjust z after changing nozzle without relevelling the bed, if i use baby stepping it doesnt store the value.
Marlin 2.0.7.2 isn't setting Z offsets correctly, the Marlin in your github 2.0.6.1-bugfix andwith your config is working really well for me on my EnderPro/V2 hybrid. Thanks for that.
Hi, Can you please do a tutorial on the CALIBRATION_GCODE - hotend offset calibration function in Marlin 2.0
Another great tutorial, thank you! Do you have any additional recommended resources for Marlin Firmware compiling? I ran through your tutorials for my Ender 5 Pro when I added an SKR Mini, BLTouch and TFT at the same time but I cannot get the firmware to recognize the BLTouch properly. I get errors and warnings every time I boot up the machine.
Download Arduino IDE and open the project with Arduino, press the Verify button and it should compile it :)
Joao Carlos thank you for the suggestion. I have been compiling with VS Code since it is a 32 Bit board.
@@gt2scale I see you have edited your answer to include more info. In fact I use VSCode with the arduino extension for personal projects. I was just suggesting the Arduino IDE because its usually more beginner friendly (and it does work!).
Unfortunately, I dont know how to help you further with specific setup, sorry.
Hi Michael, i'm struggling with ABL on my Ender 3. Everythings working almost fine, prints are not that good, but i work on it using your Calibration Guide ... thanks for that! But: I realised, since i have a BLTOUCH and no more Z-Offset-Switch installed, it is possible to manually drive my nozzle into the bed by using the motion-function on my printer. It may be a dumb question, but could i prevent that? Isn't there a safety option in marlin? Just to be clear: I do not intend to drive my nozzle into the bed, but the possibility alone makes me worried. For instance for Z-Offset-Calibration i accidentally used the 10mm-Option to bring my nozzle down and went to far. I searched on google for that problem but didn't find the right marlin function. Would be great if you know the trick. greetings
Thanks 🙏
Do you have this step guide or point me to one for the CR-10 V3? Thank you.
The ABL Tweak for X5SA (400mm models) is wrong (identical to the one for 300 model). One needs to replace the values 290 with 360 inside before using it.