I love my R6. The best thing about it is what some call a weakness. It's 20mpx sensor. I shoot massive numbers of photos and editing and storage are quick and easy. Files are plenty big enough for 90% of what I am going to do with them. I print up to 20x30 effortlessly, and the prints are clean and beautiful, even at high ISOs. It's an awesome camera for astrophotography for the same reason. I love only minimal, if any, cleanup required at 10, 12 or 25,000 ISO. Ergonomics are great, and autofocus fast and reliable.
@@takesomesomaI think he can, because the photos have 5.4k resolution. Is the image on your 55" 4k clear and sharp enough? I think it is, but the camera files are even larger, 5.4k. So I think he will be easily able to print posters up to A1 format.
Im printing from my 24 MP R8 at 80x80. I love yhe square format. There is another law at work here. Bigger prints aren t looked at from 5 cm distance. Only when inspected by pixel peeping shooting and nagging collegues. Big grames ate looked at from a distance. The human eye cannot make out the pixel detail from afar and sess a fantastic, sharp, non noisy image. Ever saw one of these gigantic building images projected or phydically created spanning tens of meters? Pixel sizes can span 5, 10, 20 to 30 centimeters. From up close you see an arty pixel wall. From afar you see the image. Clear and bright and wonderfull. In truth anything above 12, 25 or 18 MP will hold up nicely. Only when you specifically go into the 4K or 8K arena it starts to make sense to invest thousands in the biggest MP sensors. Until then you re fine. There is A LOT beautiful second hand gear out there left by the rich snobs. Seize the opportunity!
I learned a lot of things in this video, thank you! The RAW burst artifact was very interesting, I didn't know about it. One small thing that was missed: The Electronic 1st curtain shutter has an additional drawback: Truncated bokeh circles in the background. So if you shoot a lot of portraits, this can be distracting. Chris and Jordan talks about this in the R10 review as far I remember.
it's also the first time I hear the very valid point about the smaller viewfinder, thanks also for the in depth testing on the impact of IBIS in the real world, if you really need such low shutter speeds you should use a tripod...impressive!
Fantastic review 👍 for stills photography I believe canon are the best with their autofocus and only concern is that 24mp might not be enough for wildlife photography if you need to crop an image otherwise the r6 is the best camera for the budget consumer who doesn’t need the flagship canon camera, I’m a fuji user and I’m thinking of adding a full frame canon r6ii or a Sony a7 33mp camera to my collection of fuji xh2 ,xt5 bodies.
Outstanding review as always, hey matheu i am a travel and sport photographer and i want to upgrade my gear, currently i am using the sony a7ii with the 28-70 kit lens, viltrox 85mm and tamron 70-300. My main problem with my a7ii is i can't focus at low light and the burst shooting is only 5 fps, based on your review the canon r6 is great at low light and can shoot up to 12 fps, do you think i should sell all of my sony gear and buy the r6 paired with the EF 24-70 and EF 70-200 is ii or should i just upgrade my sony a7ii to a sony a7iv paired with the Tamron 28-75 and tamron 70-180 ??
The R6 is a very good option unless you need it for video, but the A7 IV with the two Tamron lenses will be lighter to carry around (assuming you're referring to the EF 24-70 F2.8 and 70-200mm F2.8). The A7 IV is a night&day upgrade from the A7 II, so if you like your experience with the A7 II overall (apert from the AF in low light), I think you'll be very happy with the mark IV version. Also consider the prices and what is cheaper to buy.
Great job. I bought an EOS R8 recently. I was so annoyed by lack of IBIS on R8 while recording the videos. I decided to sell my EOS r8. Then I'm going to buy second handed R6.
regarding the 'lightweight', it's a moot point tbh as good glass is not small or light anyway, had to learn this the hard way going to a lighter fuji setup which became heavy adding a 16-55
Awesome comparison! Really looking forward to an in-depth comparison for the R7 vs the R8. Two very different cameras for two very different audiences but priced the same. Keep up the great work!
I returned the R7 and going to get the R8. I am portraits, wedding and events photographer, my main camera is the R5. I shoot 2 weddings with the R7 and the crop sensor make it a bit difficult when going from the R5 and also the noise level on the R7 was more than what I like on the other hand the R8 is better match for my type of work
Mathieu, Great review! I am coming from owning an R6 for a couple of years, and I briefly owned the R8. (I sold my R6 when i saw the R8 introduction, and was given a good offer price for my R6). I had to return the R8 in the first week because it develop a problem with the autofocus freezing up and locking at a particular distance. (Canon took it back with no hesitation, to their credit). But for the brief time I had it, the issue I quickly noticed is that your right thumb on the back of the camera can easily accidentally bump those small buttons (AF-On, *) that are close by and very flush to the camera body. I, like many, had opted to program those buttons to help with quickly changing focus settings (like i do on my R7). But when pressed accidentally, it would prompt the camera's focus mode and focus spot to jump around. I found this happening frequently. So I'm curious to hear from those who have the R8, have you noticed this issue too? And if so, have you found a way to adjust to it? Or does it remain a complicating factor for use? I'm re-thinking possibly going with the R6ii for the bigger grip and full suit of buttons and focus placement joystick, though the lighter weight of the R8 is very appealing. The other thing I noticed with the R8's files compared to those of the R6 is they seemed sharper, all other settings and lenses the same. Anyone else notice this? And if so, do you think its a change to the anti-aliasing filter, or possibly Canon has just tweaked the raw file's default sharpening? Thanks.
Sorry to hear you had an issue with your R8! Personally, I didn't have problems with the buttons on the R8, no accidental press, and I kept most of them to their default configuration. Concerning sharpness, which software were you using? I didn't notice a relevant difference with the RAW files in Lightroom.
Thanks for the insight. Bought the RP on sale for dirt cheap but leaves a lot to be desired. Have been trying to decide between a used R6 or R8 as an upgrade. Haven’t made up my mind though!
I prefer the skin tone from R8 you shot, too. Thank you very much for pointing it out. Lack of in-body stabilization is a deal breaker for me. is there another canon FF which has R8 color and other spec with in-body stabalization?
great review thanks for this! quick question: how did you get the r8 to record for 2 hours if the battery only last for about 30 mins? just for context: i’m looking into shooting video w the r8 because my r6 overheats too often and i could use a more lightweight camera as well. but a 30 min battery life isn’t optimal for my purposes (i could buy multiple batteries as a work around) but since it can’t connect a battery pack, how’d u get the camera to shoot a two hour video?
I used a powerbank with the USB C port, specifically the Anker 737, which is a bit large and heavy. I'm sure you can find a smaller, less expensive device, just make sure it is compatible with power delivery. It needs to have a power delivery of 45 watts or higher. The Canon Canada help page recommends another Anker model, the PowerCore+ 26800 PD: canoncanada.custhelp.com/app/answers/answer_view/a_id/1043209/~/canon-eos-r8---using-commercially-available-mobile-batteries%2Fpower-banks-to
Bro, r6 overheat is only a software bullshit limitation to force people to buy r6ii and other cameras. There are already proofs on the internet. And if you just open a battery tray, then turn your camera on, will press on the tray lock, then change the date in your camera settings and drag out the battery and put it back and close the tray you will get your 30 minutes of recording time back immediately. Check on RUclips, it might really help you.
Also what affects r6 overheating is when you are shooting video with fast moving objects with shallow depth of field like 1.4-2.4 apertures for example. At 2.8 the camera is already overheating way slower and if you switch to f4-5.6 you would probably never get a complete overheating again.
Great video. I love the color rending comparison. It helps a lot to color match with other canon cameras. Question. When the camera overheats and shuts down, does it save the video clip? This is my biggest concern.
Thanks for the detailed review. I have a question and need your recommendation, I own an a7iv with 200-600 I shoot wildlife photos and videos. Other than the stabilization in video and lack of 4k 120 I'm very happy with the camera. I saw your nikon z9 review and was interested to switch to Nikon z8 for the amazing stabilization and 4k 120 but I hear the AF and battery is not on par with the sony a7iv. What are your thoughts?
Hi there, I'm planning to test the Z8 asap. I am a bit surprised to hear the AF is not on par with the A7 IV, it should theoratically behave like the Z9 (which is better), but perhaps there are some differences. I won't be able to tell until I try the Nikon camera. As for the battery, that is more plausible, it's one of the downgrades from the Z9.
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons Thanks a lot I'll definitely be on the lookout for that review, hopefully you get a chance to test it with the new 180-600.
The normal anti-flicker mode works with the mechanical shutter or EFCS only. So with that type of photo specifically, using the electronic shutter, you would need to use the High-Frequency Anti-Flicker mode with either the automatic or manual scanning option. The problem is that A) it's not always easy to get an accurate reading if the lights on the stage are changing every two seconds and B) the optimal shutter speed to eliminate or reduce banding (example 1/64.2s) may not be optimal for what's happening on the stage (if the performers are moving a lot for example). So it's really something you can only evaluate from single situation to single situation. I remember trying this with the Sony A7 IV for a stand-up comedy night, looking for the right shutter speed to eliminate some flickering in the background, and at the end I had to give up and revert to the mechanical shutter because I couldn't find the perfect setting. On paper, it can work, but it really depends on the scene and the lights (they may have all different frequencies and that becomes quite annoying to deal with).
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons I understood you.. thanks Then another question? is it possible to somehow force the shutter speed to be raised 1/64.2s? for example, by raising the iso? as I understand it, this is the aperture priority mode, well, and force the system to find another suitable shutter speed shorter and acceptable for reporting? Thanks for the valuable reply!
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons And another question? Can you tell me? is the automatic anti-flicker system in the electronic shutter implemented only in the eos r6 mark2 and is it also available in the younger eos r8 model? and in the old r5 and r6 devices, the firmware will not add an anti-flicker on the electronic shutter at least in manual mode? Is it known? thank you!
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons Thanks for the valuable information! and not frequent, but large stripes such as in the example at 23:21 can be successfully masked when processing in the editor with glare and light spots))
At the moment R6 and R8 are being sold on Amazon for the same price, which one would you pick in such circumstances? My wife shoots family/new born/portraits and wants to upgrade from 6D Mk 2
She will feel more familiar with the R6 when it comes to grip and ergonomics, and she will also get a few benefits like the two memory card slots. The R6 also has a better EVF and better battery compared to the R8, all things that can be more practical and useful when working. The AF and image quality are very similar, so I would personally choose the R6 as long as she doesn't need to do video.
I would also choose r6 even if you need video. Keep in mind ibis, it makes a huge difference. And I don't think you will shoot 30 minutes after 30 minutes 4k 60fps footage just only because of storage, not even saying about any other reasons. I never done that. I use my camera for a similar scenario as your wife and I never shot more than 5-7 minutes non stop. I can shoot something 2-5 minutes then walk around take a few photos, shoot again 3-7 minutes etc, in this scenario I never had any video limitations or overheating issues.
Today they have a sale on canon usa web a refurb with warranty r6 mk1 for $1100 and a r8 refurb for $1000 which do you recommend is the better buy at this price point for my first camera
If photos are your main interest, I would go with the R6 because of the better ergonomics, larger grip, superior EVF, two card slots etc. The only limitation with the R6 is overheating when recording video. If video is something you're seriously interested in, then choose the R8 because it has less overheating problems.
@@Eternal2007 I got both model delivered and only going to keep 1, I have 45 days to try them out, I just want to make sure I choose the right camera that i will grow into vs a camera that i will out grow.
I have never had an overheating problem with the R6, but of course I'm not trying to reshoot Gone with the Wind! My clips are never over five or ten minutes!
Ahh, r8 could be a great camera for me but...no mechanical shutter, no ibis, really bad battery, and only 1 sd card is the deal breaker to me. No 4k crop r8 advantage will be annihilated right after you turn digital IS and the image will be still more shaky. So honestly, only two real advantages of r8 over r6 are slightly higher sensor resolution and slightly better autofocus, which is also barely noticeable. And now the final shot, I got my r6 with 7k exposures for 1200$ when new r8 in my country cost now 1600$ and there are no used options. So r6 for 400$ less I think is an absolutely clear winner. There is no discussions about it.for 400$ I can buy two extra batteries with charger and 50mm 1.8 RF lens and RF to EF adapter.
I love my R6. The best thing about it is what some call a weakness. It's 20mpx sensor. I shoot massive numbers of photos and editing and storage are quick and easy. Files are plenty big enough for 90% of what I am going to do with them. I print up to 20x30 effortlessly, and the prints are clean and beautiful, even at high ISOs. It's an awesome camera for astrophotography for the same reason. I love only minimal, if any, cleanup required at 10, 12 or 25,000 ISO. Ergonomics are great, and autofocus fast and reliable.
Yeah, nobody needs more than 20mp unless you’re printing on a billboard. MP counts are so overrated
How about a bit bigger prints? If you go for 60x40 could you still do it?
@@takesomesomaI think he can, because the photos have 5.4k resolution. Is the image on your 55" 4k clear and sharp enough? I think it is, but the camera files are even larger, 5.4k. So I think he will be easily able to print posters up to A1 format.
Im printing from my 24 MP R8 at 80x80. I love yhe square format.
There is another law at work here.
Bigger prints aren t looked at from 5 cm distance. Only when inspected by pixel peeping shooting and nagging collegues. Big grames ate looked at from a distance. The human eye cannot make out the pixel detail from afar and sess a fantastic, sharp, non noisy image.
Ever saw one of these gigantic building images projected or phydically created spanning tens of meters? Pixel sizes can span 5, 10, 20 to 30 centimeters. From up close you see an arty pixel wall. From afar you see the image. Clear and bright and wonderfull.
In truth anything above 12, 25 or 18 MP will hold up nicely.
Only when you specifically go into the 4K or 8K arena it starts to make sense to invest thousands in the biggest MP sensors. Until then you re fine.
There is A LOT beautiful second hand gear out there left by the rich snobs. Seize the opportunity!
The kind of content your feel guilty watching for free.
I learned a lot of things in this video, thank you! The RAW burst artifact was very interesting, I didn't know about it.
One small thing that was missed: The Electronic 1st curtain shutter has an additional drawback: Truncated bokeh circles in the background. So if you shoot a lot of portraits, this can be distracting. Chris and Jordan talks about this in the R10 review as far I remember.
I talked about the bokeh being affected by the EFCS in the video, no bokeh circles examples in the specifics, but the idea is the same.
it's also the first time I hear the very valid point about the smaller viewfinder, thanks also for the in depth testing on the impact of IBIS in the real world, if you really need such low shutter speeds you should use a tripod...impressive!
Fantastic review 👍 for stills photography I believe canon are the best with their autofocus and only concern is that 24mp might not be enough for wildlife photography if you need to crop an image otherwise the r6 is the best camera for the budget consumer who doesn’t need the flagship canon camera, I’m a fuji user and I’m thinking of adding a full frame canon r6ii or a Sony a7 33mp camera to my collection of fuji xh2 ,xt5 bodies.
Thank you.
The R6 II is fantastic, but with Sony you have more choice of native lenses (for now at least).
EFCS explanation done very well. And a great comparison video. Very useful.
Many thanks!
Outstanding review as always, hey matheu i am a travel and sport photographer and i want to upgrade my gear, currently i am using the sony a7ii with the 28-70 kit lens, viltrox 85mm and tamron 70-300. My main problem with my a7ii is i can't focus at low light and the burst shooting is only 5 fps, based on your review the canon r6 is great at low light and can shoot up to 12 fps, do you think i should sell all of my sony gear and buy the r6 paired with the EF 24-70 and EF 70-200 is ii or should i just upgrade my sony a7ii to a sony a7iv paired with the Tamron 28-75 and tamron 70-180 ??
The R6 is a very good option unless you need it for video, but the A7 IV with the two Tamron lenses will be lighter to carry around (assuming you're referring to the EF 24-70 F2.8 and 70-200mm F2.8).
The A7 IV is a night&day upgrade from the A7 II, so if you like your experience with the A7 II overall (apert from the AF in low light), I think you'll be very happy with the mark IV version.
Also consider the prices and what is cheaper to buy.
Great job. I bought an EOS R8 recently. I was so annoyed by lack of IBIS on R8 while recording the videos.
I decided to sell my EOS r8. Then I'm going to buy second handed R6.
Thanks for sharing your experience. How do you like the R6?
regarding the 'lightweight', it's a moot point tbh as good glass is not small or light anyway, had to learn this the hard way going to a lighter fuji setup which became heavy adding a 16-55
Great in depth comparison. Just what I needed!
Thank you. Great to hear!
Awesome comparison! Really looking forward to an in-depth comparison for the R7 vs the R8. Two very different cameras for two very different audiences but priced the same. Keep up the great work!
Thank you!
I returned the R7 and going to get the R8. I am portraits, wedding and events photographer, my main camera is the R5. I shoot 2 weddings with the R7 and the crop sensor make it a bit difficult when going from the R5 and also the noise level on the R7 was more than what I like on the other hand the R8 is better match for my type of work
R8 rocks for sports or weddings@@gsanchez922
Mathieu, Great review! I am coming from owning an R6 for a couple of years, and I briefly owned the R8. (I sold my R6 when i saw the R8 introduction, and was given a good offer price for my R6). I had to return the R8 in the first week because it develop a problem with the autofocus freezing up and locking at a particular distance. (Canon took it back with no hesitation, to their credit). But for the brief time I had it, the issue I quickly noticed is that your right thumb on the back of the camera can easily accidentally bump those small buttons (AF-On, *) that are close by and very flush to the camera body. I, like many, had opted to program those buttons to help with quickly changing focus settings (like i do on my R7). But when pressed accidentally, it would prompt the camera's focus mode and focus spot to jump around. I found this happening frequently.
So I'm curious to hear from those who have the R8, have you noticed this issue too? And if so, have you found a way to adjust to it? Or does it remain a complicating factor for use? I'm re-thinking possibly going with the R6ii for the bigger grip and full suit of buttons and focus placement joystick, though the lighter weight of the R8 is very appealing.
The other thing I noticed with the R8's files compared to those of the R6 is they seemed sharper, all other settings and lenses the same. Anyone else notice this? And if so, do you think its a change to the anti-aliasing filter, or possibly Canon has just tweaked the raw file's default sharpening? Thanks.
Sorry to hear you had an issue with your R8!
Personally, I didn't have problems with the buttons on the R8, no accidental press, and I kept most of them to their default configuration.
Concerning sharpness, which software were you using? I didn't notice a relevant difference with the RAW files in Lightroom.
R8 files might be slightly sharper because they have 20% higher resolution than r6 files or what do you mean?
One of the best videos for sure
Thanks for the insight. Bought the RP on sale for dirt cheap but leaves a lot to be desired. Have been trying to decide between a used R6 or R8 as an upgrade. Haven’t made up my mind though!
What kind of photos do you like to take? Are you interested in video?
this was incredibly informative thank you MG
Glad it was helpful!
This was so helpful! Thank you so much for making this video ❤❤
Thank you so much, for the calm atmosphere of your content 🙏👌
Thank you for watching!
Very good versus! Keep on like this... And thank you very much for everything ;)
A long time waiting video and very detailed
I prefer the skin tone from R8 you shot, too. Thank you very much for pointing it out. Lack of in-body stabilization is a deal breaker for me. is there another canon FF which has R8 color and other spec with in-body stabalization?
The R6 II, but it's more expensive.
Such a great and detailed comparison. Thank youu!
Thanks!
Thank you, that’s very kind!
Very useful, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
great review thanks for this! quick question: how did you get the r8 to record for 2 hours if the battery only last for about 30 mins? just for context: i’m looking into shooting video w the r8 because my r6 overheats too often and i could use a more lightweight camera as well. but a 30 min battery life isn’t optimal for my purposes (i could buy multiple batteries as a work around) but since it can’t connect a battery pack, how’d u get the camera to shoot a two hour video?
I used a powerbank with the USB C port, specifically the Anker 737, which is a bit large and heavy. I'm sure you can find a smaller, less expensive device, just make sure it is compatible with power delivery. It needs to have a power delivery of 45 watts or higher. The Canon Canada help page recommends another Anker model, the PowerCore+ 26800 PD:
canoncanada.custhelp.com/app/answers/answer_view/a_id/1043209/~/canon-eos-r8---using-commercially-available-mobile-batteries%2Fpower-banks-to
Bro, r6 overheat is only a software bullshit limitation to force people to buy r6ii and other cameras. There are already proofs on the internet. And if you just open a battery tray, then turn your camera on, will press on the tray lock, then change the date in your camera settings and drag out the battery and put it back and close the tray you will get your 30 minutes of recording time back immediately. Check on RUclips, it might really help you.
Also what affects r6 overheating is when you are shooting video with fast moving objects with shallow depth of field like 1.4-2.4 apertures for example. At 2.8 the camera is already overheating way slower and if you switch to f4-5.6 you would probably never get a complete overheating again.
Great video. I love the color rending comparison. It helps a lot to color match with other canon cameras.
Question. When the camera overheats and shuts down, does it save the video clip? This is my biggest concern.
Yes, it did in my test.
Thanks for the review. Q: When comparing the 85/2 and the 70-200/2.8, did you shoot them on the same focal length and aperture?
Same aperture (f/2.8) and I tried 85mm and 100mm for the zoom (no difference)
Bravo as usual
Thank you!
Great job!
I'm amazed
Thank you!
Thanks for the detailed review.
I have a question and need your recommendation, I own an a7iv with 200-600 I shoot wildlife photos and videos. Other than the stabilization in video and lack of 4k 120 I'm very happy with the camera. I saw your nikon z9 review and was interested to switch to Nikon z8 for the amazing stabilization and 4k 120 but I hear the AF and battery is not on par with the sony a7iv. What are your thoughts?
Hi there, I'm planning to test the Z8 asap. I am a bit surprised to hear the AF is not on par with the A7 IV, it should theoratically behave like the Z9 (which is better), but perhaps there are some differences. I won't be able to tell until I try the Nikon camera. As for the battery, that is more plausible, it's one of the downgrades from the Z9.
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons Thanks a lot
I'll definitely be on the lookout for that review, hopefully you get a chance to test it with the new 180-600.
Which canon camera wouldn't your recommend for sports fotografer
Have same question because R8 is newer
I would go with the R6 for the larger battery, better ergonomics, two card slots etc.
Great video!
I have a question
22.:40 is the anti-flicker not coping?
why can't the problem be solved with the built-in anti-flicker?
The normal anti-flicker mode works with the mechanical shutter or EFCS only.
So with that type of photo specifically, using the electronic shutter, you would need to use the High-Frequency Anti-Flicker mode with either the automatic or manual scanning option. The problem is that A) it's not always easy to get an accurate reading if the lights on the stage are changing every two seconds and B) the optimal shutter speed to eliminate or reduce banding (example 1/64.2s) may not be optimal for what's happening on the stage (if the performers are moving a lot for example). So it's really something you can only evaluate from single situation to single situation.
I remember trying this with the Sony A7 IV for a stand-up comedy night, looking for the right shutter speed to eliminate some flickering in the background, and at the end I had to give up and revert to the mechanical shutter because I couldn't find the perfect setting.
On paper, it can work, but it really depends on the scene and the lights (they may have all different frequencies and that becomes quite annoying to deal with).
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons I understood you.. thanks
Then another question? is it possible to somehow force the shutter speed to be raised 1/64.2s? for example, by raising the iso? as I understand it, this is the aperture priority mode, well, and force the system to find another suitable shutter speed shorter and acceptable for reporting?
Thanks for the valuable reply!
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons And another question? Can you tell me? is the automatic anti-flicker system in the electronic shutter implemented only in the eos r6 mark2 and is it also available in the younger eos r8 model? and in the old r5 and r6 devices, the firmware will not add an anti-flicker on the electronic shutter at least in manual mode? Is it known? thank you!
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons Thanks for the valuable information!
and not frequent, but large stripes such as in the example at 23:21 can be successfully masked when processing in the editor with glare and light spots))
Hmm...between the R6 and the R8, if they had the same price (on sale) which one would you pick?
At the moment R6 and R8 are being sold on Amazon for the same price, which one would you pick in such circumstances? My wife shoots family/new born/portraits and wants to upgrade from 6D Mk 2
She will feel more familiar with the R6 when it comes to grip and ergonomics, and she will also get a few benefits like the two memory card slots. The R6 also has a better EVF and better battery compared to the R8, all things that can be more practical and useful when working. The AF and image quality are very similar, so I would personally choose the R6 as long as she doesn't need to do video.
I would also choose r6 even if you need video. Keep in mind ibis, it makes a huge difference. And I don't think you will shoot 30 minutes after 30 minutes 4k 60fps footage just only because of storage, not even saying about any other reasons. I never done that. I use my camera for a similar scenario as your wife and I never shot more than 5-7 minutes non stop. I can shoot something 2-5 minutes then walk around take a few photos, shoot again 3-7 minutes etc, in this scenario I never had any video limitations or overheating issues.
I read someone say that the battery grip of the RP fits the R8
It does. Basically the same exact build with different guts
You can connect the r8 to the RP battery grip
Is that a third party battery grip?
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons the RP/R8 Battery grip is by Vello, so not a canon product, but is available!
Just copped an r6 for $1200 with 3 batteries
Great comparison! 👍
Thank you!
Today they have a sale on canon usa web a refurb with warranty r6 mk1 for $1100 and a r8 refurb for $1000 which do you recommend is the better buy at this price point for my first camera
If photos are your main interest, I would go with the R6 because of the better ergonomics, larger grip, superior EVF, two card slots etc.
The only limitation with the R6 is overheating when recording video. If video is something you're seriously interested in, then choose the R8 because it has less overheating problems.
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons mainly hybrid shooter 50/50
Then I would say the R8.
I was in the same dilemma. Which model did you end up with?
@@Eternal2007 I got both model delivered and only going to keep 1, I have 45 days to try them out, I just want to make sure I choose the right camera that i will grow into vs a camera that i will out grow.
Still cant decide if I want IBIS or less overheating and autofocus motor
For video go for ibis, it's a killer feature. If you take photos mostly, then go for r8 but also remember about electronic shutter issues.
Which canon camera would your recommend for videos?
Not the R6 because of the overheating problems. R8 or R6 II are better that way.
I have never had an overheating problem with the R6, but of course I'm not trying to reshoot Gone with the Wind! My clips are never over five or ten minutes!
Just "Professional as it gets" 👍
Thanks! Appreciate it!
Could you share the tested photos?
Which tests do you want?
Thanks for answering. It would be the RAWs of the geisha photos. @@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons
There you go:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1lQQeTlQ9odWBKVySYKYlcJh1JGnChz5w?usp=sharing
Thank you very much!@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons
Exactly what I need🎉
This is perfect! Thanks
You're welcome!
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessons wich one do you prefeer for bibird photography?
Doesn't the RP battery grip fit the R8 ?
You mean third party battery grips? They should, although I haven't tried them myself.
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessonsno I mean the grip from Canon. I seen on another RUclips video where the guy said it fits
I'm not aware of any official battery grip from Canon for the RP and R8. Canon only made a grip extender.
It's just an official RP grip from Canon, no battery in grip.
Best video ever i seen ❤
Thank you so much!
Ahh, r8 could be a great camera for me but...no mechanical shutter, no ibis, really bad battery, and only 1 sd card is the deal breaker to me. No 4k crop r8 advantage will be annihilated right after you turn digital IS and the image will be still more shaky. So honestly, only two real advantages of r8 over r6 are slightly higher sensor resolution and slightly better autofocus, which is also barely noticeable. And now the final shot, I got my r6 with 7k exposures for 1200$ when new r8 in my country cost now 1600$ and there are no used options. So r6 for 400$ less I think is an absolutely clear winner. There is no discussions about it.for 400$ I can buy two extra batteries with charger and 50mm 1.8 RF lens and RF to EF adapter.
10:07 R8 has less noise than R6 in photo that is unexpected coz 20 mp should be more clean lol
27:41 Has this been fixed?
I haven’t heard anything about a fix.
@@MathieuGasquetMirrorLessonsThats bad. Canon fixed a banding issue after lots of complain on the eos r. Maybe they will fix this.
Hi.
Used r6 great cond. for 1000€ or new r8 for 1100? I dont care video.