Ford Truck EGR System - Complete OVERVIEW and TEST - Step by Step!!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Complete overview of the EGR system components on the Ford 5.8L I explain each component, how it works and how to test it. Easy step by step guide!
TOOLS NEEDED: (I like OTC when available, none of these tools need to be top of the line...can get at your local store or here are some links to amazon products that are also great.)...
-Vacuum Gauge - amzn.to/3oK9pN2
-Multimeter (need to read DC Voltage and Ohms) - amzn.to/3ui9nNR
To Test EGR Valve itself...(optional)
-Hand vacuum pump - amzn.to/2QSL7UQ
-Air Compressor to apply compressed air to EGR Valve
Permatex Copper Anti-sieze for exhaust components: amzn.to/3hTPA4y
*Check out my amazon store for more great tools and products! www.Amazon.com/... I greatly appreciate your support of my channel, Thank you!*
Disclaimer: This channel may make a small commission off of any purchases made through affiliate links.
#OBSfordEGR #5.8EGR #OBSFord
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Finally someone with no nonsense explanation on egr. My 92’ has “non sufficient air flow” code and I needed a video like this to test the components before I dump $$ into it. Thanks
Thank you! I run a few of these trucks...n they aren't gettin any younger so always more vids coming!
Seriously one of the most informative tutorials I've ever watched on RUclips. I feel like I actually learned something. Nice work.
Thank you
@@rednecktech82 I have a 1989 Ford F 350 XLT Lariat with a extremely loos steering wheel what would I need to do to fix it. It's tilted to the left and have 8 inches of play on the steering wheel, (probably people using the steering wheel to pull themselves in over the years) please help!
Sounds like you may need a full rebuild or possibly a whole new column if the steering column itself is worn so bad that you have that much play. There are other components to the steering column but typically it's just the upper bearing and then maybe the lower bearing that need replaced. Unfortunately I'm not aware of any videos showing a full column rebuild as most just buy a whole new rebuilt column at that point. $500 last I checked at... www.steeringcolumnservices.com/rebuilt-columns/1992-1997-non-tilt-floor-shift-rebuilt-ford-steering-column.php
Thanks and the link you sent is for 1992 -1997 I have a 1989 do you know where I could find one for that year new or should I go to a junk yard and gamble with pulling one from there?
@@Jesse-- you'd have to online search...try salvave yards before a junk yard (salvage yds typically test n sell only working parts vs junk yard being whatever).
Had the nuts to watch it all the way through. Great explanation of that system.
Hats off to you good sir, you're probably the first lol.
Great video ... explained very well and it helped me solve my EGR problem after a week of less burnt eyes from watching so many less informative videos ... Thanks !!
Thank you! Really appreciate the feedback!
Thank you! This is the best video covering the EGR system on these trucks. Clear, concise, and great info. I spent the day replacing vacuum lines and scratching my head, now I have a good plan for tomorrow.
Did u fix it?
@@LaMouleQuiCoule Yup! I'm 5.8 swapped now and it runs great!
Thank you so much. Your video made it simple to understand. I am no mechanic but like to try and fix and replace parts myself before going to an actual mechanic. You helped save me alot of money!!! Thank you, keep posting!
Thank you for your time and simple explanations,
Some folks ego's comes out when trying to learn about working on something...
I did not realize that was the vacuum control valve over there on the driver's side.
I have about 180K and had a severe duty trans rebuild and towing kit performed on my E4od automatic 1997 F250-HD obs at about 170K. (update all known issues with it except for solenoid pack)
I like this series of ford trucks.
Things are tight on passenger side for exhaust manifold replacement, because of that warped oem exhaust manifolds from the factory (TSB's). Have to take a straight edge to replacement to make sure it is not warped. Clean up with 14" mill file, unless you have a way to fly cut/machine it parallel. Have driver's side to replace also.
Dude this video was so useful and you do a great job at explaining things. Thank you
Thank you really appreciate the feedback!
very very helpful and the only person talking about the controll solenoid. thanks buddy !!!
I’m having a heck of time trying to figure out why my truck is idling very tough, too rough to drive. I enjoy how thorough you are.
Did you ever figure it out.
Thank you for taking the time to show this! Awesome.
Thank you, I appreciate the support!
I actually cleaned mine out 2 years ago and no more problems cause $100 is too much when you can at least try a toothbrush ($1) and carb cleaner ($5)
I recently found the Bosch 1300 Scanner that not only makes it very easy to pull codes on an OBD1 system but can give you live engine data. works great on my 91 f150.
How much was it? Cant find any in stock.
6:19 Verify there are no breaks, cracks, or leaks in that green vacuum line.
.
8:22 You can buy 5 feet of 1/4 vinyl tubing and place the tube over the vacuum port on EGR valve. Put other end of tube in your mouth and use swallowing action (no joke, like a baby sucks a bottle) to actually pull enough vacuum to make the diaphragm move. Stick your tongue on tube if you need to take a break. It should hold a vacuum. NOTE!!! Do "movement testing" of EGR valve BEFORE you remove the sensor from on top. Removing the sensor is like removing the lid from a vacuum sealed jar of nuts. That sensor forms part of the sealed vacuum actuator.
Thanks for making it simple.
Thank you for the great video. My identifix program was showing results for the newer style. This was so helpful.
This is a great video!
You explained the system very well.
Thanks! I needed this!
Thank you
Man, this video was great. No bullshit, just all of the info needed for diagnostics. I really appreciate it!
Thank you!
Thanks a lot I'll been having problems with my 95 f 150
My best friend is having problems with his f250 and I suspect it's the EGR or pressure regulator but probably EGR. Thanks for this diag help
The best thing about your presentation is that even a car/truck mechanical imbecile like myself, can understand the material presented. I am sure that my control valve is bad and that my EGR is bad too. I am betting money that my code 44 on my obd 1 will go away after I change them. If it doesn't, then at least I have peace of mind knowing that old parts are swapped out.
Thanks so much for uploading this! Very helpful, bro!
Thank you!
I don't have this problem but it was a good video compared to others
This very helpful. Thank you. I'm havig 558 8 code and everything is test good on the control valve. Moving on to the position sensor next. I tested EGR valve but apply small vacuum to the green line while running and it almost stalls.
just tested my 87 ford f150 5.0L EGR...all tests passed except the valve is not opening when the vacuum is applied from the EGR solenoid to the EGR valve to open. I guess it's frozen. thx for this info btw. no nonsense...just the goods.
Will this test work for 93 with the 4.9 motor?
Great video thank you so much.
Thank you for a great, concise video. I just finally found my code 332 problem!
I have the same code but It doesn’t seem that I’m getting vacuum from the engine
If only I had watched your video 5 days ago. I was told by a friend that I needed to remove my EGR valve to see if it was stuck with carbon. I struggled for days trying to remove the giant nut from the EGR valve body. I finally got it off thanks to an air hammer and low and behold, the EGR valve was fine.
Then we watched this video and realized that the position sensor was fine and now we will test the EGR control valve tomorrow... I never had to mess with the EGR valve nut... UGH
Wich problem did you have?
Mine starts to run rough when warm, I’m about to begin tear down those egr components to look for issues
I have the 33 and 332 code on it (92 4.9)
@@betolp277 I finally took the time to properly diagnose my EGR problem this morning. It wasn't any of the major components. The problem ended up being the vacuum line from the engine to the control solenoid was bad.
My first test was to see resistance at the control solenoid and I got about 32 ohms which told me that the solenoid circuit was probably okay. So I them took my vacuum gauge while the engine was running and found there was no vacuum in the line that goes from the engine to the control solenoid. I took a more careful look and that line was clearly damaged, so I replaced it and I don't have a code and it's idling much better now
@@TheSamsonizzle that’s awesome!
I found the issue with mine, was the coolant temperature sensor, the one next to the thermostat, when warm it cut the signal to the ecu, and make the spark weak, replaced it and work normal again.
I took out the egr and was stucked closed, so just cleaned with carbuclean and checked the resistance on the sensor, it looks pretty normal to me, and change all the vacuum lines.
Not have the check engine light on, but when i do the jumper thing to get codes, 33 and 332 still appears.
Great vid, easy to hear and understand
Excellent! Thank you for making this video.
My 1990 Bronco 5.0L idles good and drives at highway speeds fine. It stumbles a bit going up a hill, say 2000 RPM at 45 MPH. (high load) The Temp gauge on dash does not move off of COLD, but thermostat is working and engine is at operating temp. How can I determine if ECU is operating in closed-loop? Thinking that a faulty temp sender might be tricking ECU to remain Open-Loop. If open loop, then ECU keeps mixture enriched right? The CAT dowmnstream from O2 sensor has a patina to it. Does it normally operate super hot? Because of the stumble at LOAD, I have been suspecting ignition issues, but watching your video, wonder if I have non functioning EGR. How can I confirm ECU achieves CLOSED-LOOP status? ANy help appreciated.
I have been dealing with the same issue with my 95 F150 5.0. In idle or park I can rev it for days with no miss but as soon as I put a load on it about 2000/2200 rpms while in drive (holding brake peddle or just lightly accelerating from a stop) it stumbles. I have been going though my ignition components as well but everything checks out. Now (like you) I suspect I have an EGR issue and will have to follow the steps in this vid and either verify my issue or eliminate the EGR system as my problem.
@@LoveThyPitBull I have a 93 5.0 I've been having the same problems and I read that if your temperature unit is not working right data mess up your EGR valve and everything it will give it incorrect readings your computer won't send the correct codes to the unit because the computer still thinks the engine is cold when it's not cold
i have a 1989 Ford Bronco with a 302 ci 5 speed stick, Truck always ran great then about a few months ago at a idle it goes up & down over & over almost to stall, i replaced the TPS that was not it, i then replaced the MAP & 02 sensor still does the same thing then i was told it might be the EGR Valve, Man this is getting expensive what else do you think it could be, sounds like a Vacuum i checked can't find a leak have any ideas PLEASE HELP. !
Great and informative video. Thanks
Very informative. Thank you!
@8:38 the sensor that has single vacuum line coming off of the Throttle body, connecting to the sensor that has a "Tee" at the bottom and then going to the front of the engine bay. What is that sensor call. I had to replace the TPS and when I went to pull the Vacuum line off this sensor it broke at the base.
BTW great video.. really help me get the 1994 5.8 Bronco running much better. Just have to fix what I broke.
if it's what I think you're talking about it's a "Canister Purge Valve/Solenoid" or also called "Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid" or just "Purge Valve"...two wire connector at one end, vacuum line Tee off the other end? Look up Carquest part number CPA1107, that's the listing for your 94' Bronco, part runs about $75 - $90.
@@rednecktech82 Yes sir, I believe we are talking about the same sensor
Never knew I needed an EGR tutorial video by Joe Rogan. Thank you.
I'm not sure if that's a compliment or not lol. I've never watched Joe rogan. I vaguely know who he is, some kind of podcaster?
@@rednecktech82 He used to be a commentator for UFC as well. Some like him some don't, but the resemblance in appearance and mannerism is uncanny! BUt seriously, thank you for the video, it was super helpful and I was able to diagnose the EGR in my 93 e-150
Dude dope video
Thank you
THANK YOU AND SUBSCRIBED
Awesome! Much appreciated, I am so close to 1000 subscribers where my efforts start paying off! lol
Im getting about 4 ohms at the sensore but no dc at connector. My temp gauge never goes above "N" in normal idk if thats a problem , i knw alot of these gauges didnt work well but could it be its not reaching temp or atleast the computer doesnt think it is? 88 bronco 5.8
Good video, thanks a lot
Help!!! Anyway you could explain how to run EGR vaccum lines from the canister to the valve, intake T and the egr solenoid?
I got acode 332 on my 95 mustang gt. Tossed a new egr solenoid at it, same outcome. Pulled 10” vacuum on the egr valve and it held. Removed the egr position sensor and tested it for ohms. Got nothing while pushing in the sensor pintle. Got a spare egr position sensor and test that. Closed it reads 3.8ohm fully depressed .3ohm. Pretty sure the position sensor wasn’t telling the computer when it was opened. Tested the new sensor installed with a multi meter and when vaccum is appled the ohms decrease and will return to the static 3.8ohm. At about 5” of vacuum ohms reduce to .7 or so. Hopefully this will fix my egr code.
Was hoping to see a follow up video showing everything working after replacing the EGR. Did that solve the problem? You lost vacuum halfway through the rev. was hoping to see you rev it more to see if the vacuum went up each time. Also do you know how many volts should be at the electrical connection for the control valve?
Does a broken EGR tube affect how it runs?
I'm curious as to what you would do as far as diagnostic. If you knew your vacuum lines were good, you replaced the control valve, and it made no difference.
What does it mean when I have vacuum at the EGR (green line) at idle? Truck runs awful, I’m suspecting ecu issues
@redneck tech. My dad removed my egr and I want to put it all back on. Can you do a run down from the tab tad of where those vacuum lines go. Also where hoses go from the egr and the solenoid by the tab tad. Having hell of a time figuring where all these lines go
@rednecktech thanks for the video. I'm only getting about 8 inHg of vacuum to my egr valve. I'm assuming that's not enough and I have a leak somewhere
What if there is not volts at all?
I have a 93 bronco 5.8. When i fire it up it starts up fine, then goes from high idle to low idle after one minute. After I drive it for 20 minutes and it is fully warmed to operating temperature I park it. When i go to try and start it after 20 minutes of sitting it has a rough start and almost conks out, but then smoothed out. Could this be my EGR valve? I replaced engine coolant temp sensor, ignition coil. I have no check engine light.
My question is where does the other end of the white line connect to get vacuum from the engine? I inherited a 93 F -150 and the white line is disconnected on the passenger side of the engine.
I got a 334 code ....1992 f250 5.8. Get detonation when cold. Tested the evp was bad...replaced... but still got a slap...noise when cold.....still 334. Maybe the egr is stuck opened?
I also have a 351 and Im just thinking to take the vacuum hose off so I can get the EGR always closed. Luckily I dont have computer attached to the EGR. So the engine can run more efficiently and strongly without the useless exhaust air. If I take it to inspection I just put the hose back.
It will actually run better with a working EGR. Absolutely get rid of the air pump system though! On gas engines the EGR helps, on diesels you absolutely want to get rid of it as it is counterproductive to the cool air the turbos require to run optimally.
@@rednecktech82 Ill consider it, thank you!
My 96 will run good for days then all of a sudden stutter and stall, crank and crank, no syart then suddenly start fine. I have replaced the stater, solenoid, coil, ignition control module and ignition switch. Maybe egr? Its so hit and miss that its hard to diagnose when it wont stay broke.
What's the part number for the EGR valve itself?
May not be same for different years etc. Just go to Advance Auto or Autozone website to look up your vehicle.
good video
My truck is not showing any voltage in the electrical harness that plugs into the position sensor. Do you know how to fix that?
Just have to track the harness and look for any breaks, ground outs or blown fuses.
Hey man
I hope you can see this and possibly give me a tip
My truck has the 337 code, i have replaced the egr valve and the egr control valve and still have the same code
I have to mention that my truck is a california edition so for some reason does not have egr position sensor
so what should I check then , thanks in advance
My truck did the same thing, I changed alot part's which turn out it was a bad cat. Codes of 91 seem not to read cats are bad sends Codes for errors errors.
My 89 F350 is like 300,000 miles and original parts too. Lol.
Gasser?
Just bought a 1993 with 136,000 on it!
What exactly happens if the EGR position sensor has a low voltage and what cause it to have that?
Bro im having the same issue and i cant figure it out 😂im getting code 32 on a 91 5.0 f150 lol
@@pompis80 did you fix yours?
is this the same on a 96 5.0?
Also your egr
I have a 95 f150 has some hesitation, I have a code 31 coming up from a KOER test. I tested everything like you shown and everything seems to be working and I cleaned out the EGR valve and also patch some vacuum lines. looks like I'm still having that code 31 come up, what else do you think it could possibly be ?? Thank you
I would check FordTruckEnthusiasts forumn and see what you can find, always a wealth of knowledge there.
@@rednecktech82 I did some info change out the EGR position sensor it looks good now but I now have ac on max and it blow threw the defroster 🤣
@@joeyziegler391 there's a vacuum line that comes from your heater area hook that up that controls your actuator doors on your heating system and your air conditioner
Just like that and the valve was changed. For me, two days and a can of silicone and four million cuss words and l still haven’t cracked it loose.
Lol, if it's any consolation I was as surprised as you. But when you do get it off...Copper based anti-seize!!! I use on all hot parts, exhaust etc. I've taken stuff back apart years later like it was Just put on! Link to what I use is in the vid description.
Skippy!!!
I threw a 558 and did the test. After replacing the control valve, still no vacuum and still threw the 558. I guess I need to test the power to the control valve? Could it be a loose wire?
Google obs code 558 and the first result is a good write up on this in the Ford Truck Enthusiast forumn, should help you out.
So what do I do if neither of the electrical components get a read on the volt meter?
Is it JUST replacing those two components? Or is there more?
I would verify you have power going to those components first and if not you have another issue. If power is going to the components but you don't get a read then yes they would need replaced.
@@rednecktech82 How do I verify there is power going to the valve control solenoid and the position sensor?
Aloha, hopefully you can help me out, I have a1990 e150, it sat for 2 months, I ended up replacing the distributor because it would not start. since replacing the distributor the van stalls when it warms up. It will not start til it cools off, then it stalls again.Any Ideas on what to check? thank you!
Sigh, I wish I didn't have youngzheimers. I have had this exact issue and others have asked me about it as well but I can't remember what it was that was wrong, it was long before I had a RUclips channel. It wasn't anything major I can tell you that. I found my solution through a lot of reading on the forums.
@@rednecktech82 I hear you, I've been dealing with half helmets!
@@rednecktech82 that should read halfheimers. I'm wondering if it might be an intake manifold gasket leak.
Still doesn't explain why you lost vacuum with the new egr control switch immediately after revving. Cleaning egr valve will not fix vacuum issue because you need vacuum for egr valve to even function.
Keep that 5.8 for another 50 years.
i bet the engine has 100,000 miles on it
I’m not getting vacuum from the engine now what 🙄
0 vacuum from engine could it be the control sensor
@TimMcGowan Did you end up finding out what the issue was?
@@SmithSurveying no but I’ve gotten some more help from other people who think it could be the vacuum reservoir I’m gonna replace that next after I fix my starter issue 😂
@@timmcgowan27 That's funny because I recently replaced my starter..looks like we had the same issues haha. I was going to mention to you that you could have a broken vacuum hose or reservoir. I just bought some silicon hose to replace all of the vacuum hoses in my 95. Good luck man!
@@SmithSurveying lol my top starter bolt came out and was causing the starter to not engage the flywheel correctly and when I replaced the entire starter it not is staying engaged so I’m in a pickle