I live in Canada and researching these parts are not as cheap as you mention. But with your video looking up part numbers you have saved me $150. thank you
I have a 96 ford f 250, been fixing it as things break, it has about 400 thousand miles on it, and pretty much regularly, something breaks or needs repair about every week. The other day, the smog pump seized up, it was a 15 dollar part at the junkyard. I have no idea how long ago the pump stopped working, but the genuine difference in the performance of the truck was instantly recognizable. The engine idle is smooth and balanced, the acceleration is surprisingly responsive and the gas mileage has improved tremendously. Up until the past week or so that I fixed the air pump by replacing it, the truck was something of a real problem to drive, it felt like the truck was always struggling to go up a hill. It is a work truck that works for a living, and often it is driven at just above an idle, about 25 miles or so. usually it takes about two hours, once the pump was replaced and operating, did the whole route pattern in less than 90 minutes. In the mid 90's Ford was still trying to figure out fuel injection, while your video suggests altering the system, I have always tried to rebuild the operating systems to its original function of design. I have owned this truck about 14 years, and with a whole list of new parts and improvements on the vehicle, I am going to keep it as close to original as possible. The trucks now are plastic and not built for work, the old timer vehicles were made for working, and around my house, if the truck doesn't work, nobody gets to eat.
I'm going to guess by what you described that the pump was seizing up for a while and dragging the engine down with it. When it finally locked up and you replaced it with a junkyard piece that turned freely the engine was able to operate at normal load again.
@@QuickSpeedShop I have no idea how long it was out, at 400 thousand miles, there are funny noises from everywhere, I put in a double roller timing chain, and it has all its horsepower, almost 25 years later. It started grinding, then stopped overnight.
I was wondering how to verify that the smog air pump is actually working before replacing or removing it. Thanks for any feed back. If you have exhaust noises get a bright flashlight and look at your manifolds for cracks, both of mine have broken. I would make sure using a good exhaust gaskets, checking the flatness of the replacement manifolds and re-torqueing after a couple heat cycles by loosening then torqueing again. Maybe use brass nuts to secure the manifolds.
@@zh9119 jajaja jajajaja eso que me lo diga la persona a quien le comento a ti no te interesa no eres más que un pobre pendejo si tiene es problema dime yo te puedo ayudar a resolver tu problema no es contigo pendejo
I didn’t really understand the looping part 😅would you please explain it to me. I’m new to working on cars, I just got my first truck and it looks like this one but it has a 5.0 not a 5.8. Thanks in advance!!
I found out that skinny fan on the passenger wheel well is the fuel injector cooling fan. It blows air through a tube to each injector to prevent difficult warm starts.
Do you know this pulley is completely unnecessary? Just take off the pump and buy a belt a few inches shorter. Cheaper than this and you get a new belt in case yours is worn. I forget the exact length but you don’t need that pulley. This also increases the contact area of the belt to pulleys. All that idler pulley you added does is make it easier for the belt to slip.
I recently watched your exhaust video , I live your channel , I recently picked up a reg cab long box f350 with the 5.8 . I need to replace the hubs as one was missing . My long term goal is to straight axle the front then level it as the rear leafs look a lil saggy . Cheers
If you find a 76 bronco you can take the Dana 44 from the front of it and there’s a kit online that gives you everything you need to straight axle swap it 👍🏼
My smog pump is off. It came that when when I bought it. I bought the bracket and pulley. Do you know the size bolts/thread and length that is needed? my truck is missing them.
The bolts are SAE thread, not metric. I believe the top bolt is 7/16-14, but not sure how long it is,. Just measure your bracket and add an inch or so and that will be the correct length. I think the shorter lower bolt is 3/8-14, but you could find a bolt that fits if you have it in your hand.
I used tuffstuff 1700 bracket and the dorman pulley . It came out great luckily my 93 f250 had pipes that went to the cat so I didn't have to block then off since they weren't there. My bracket costs 60 shipped compared to the 130 Ford bracket. Maybe it's worth doing an update
What if you just loop the Air Pump like you did with the valves? Or run it straight to the solenoids. I have a exhaust leak somewhere, guessing its either the manifolds or the egr piping in the back
The problem is that the air pumps will seize up and throw the belt, that's the main reason I remove them. Sounds like you could either have a cracked manifold, which is common, or a smog tube that is leaking, although I think the newer ones are made of stainless so that don't usually rust off.
FYI, PSA. I'm doing this air pump conversion this weekend in my 1992 E250 5.8. Some stuff you cant find anymore. But at Rockauto I got the correct pulley for the 5.8. GATES 38029 $9.60. That Proform bracket is NLA as well. Had to go to AmericanMuscle and order the real Ford smog pump eliminator kit 50271 for $99.99. But my pump has blown seals and leaks oil all over the place so i have to do this. As in your other vids. I a also changing my exhaust manifolds but this is a lot easier on a van with a dog house.
Okay, this is not totally related to this change, but I have a 89 f150 with the 4.9 inline 6. It is fuel injected. The smog pump is not long for this world. there is a fan above it on the wheel well that runs after I shut the engine off on lot days. I don't know what it cools, but if I delete the smog pump, will that cooling fan still do it's job? Thanks.
My smog pump rattles like crazy when engine is running. Its the second aftermarket pump put in. Is this a symptom of bad pump? If deleted it should sound like a normal engine?
Where can I get the correct size manifold plugs I need to complete this job? I don't have a way to weld the ends as you had suggested, so I'd like to find the correct plugs that would work instead. Could you possibly put a link in the description, or list the part number I would need to do that part? I appreciate the help Sir. Great video. Thank you.
I looked on the internet and am having a hard time finding the blank off plugs listed separately. You can get the EGR tube connector fitting which will have the correct thread on the non nippled end. You could get two of those and have someone weld the nippled ends up for you. Dorman makes them, their under $15 each. Just search 5.8L EGR tube connector. If you could find out the NPT thread size of the connector you could probably find a black plug with same thread to plug rear manifold holes.
@@QuickSpeedShop Ok cool. I'll check it out. Question though. Is it the same principle, except for the parts removal, if I simply connect the incoming and outgoing hoses together, right at the smog pump location? Would that work, just to get me back on the road for now? The one on my 1997 f250 5.8 HD has seized up. At least it didn't leave me stranded though. I've owned this truck since new and has never let me down. Coming up on 300K miles and I want to make it over the mark. Thanks again for your help. This has helped me out, and I ordered the part numbers you provided in this video. I just need to figure out an easy way to do the tubing bypass, so that my truck will run again. Thank you for your help Sir.
@@groovinav Actually that should work. If you leave those check valves in the lines in place it won't backfeed and you could just hook the lines together with some hose. I don't see why that wouldn't work.
@@QuickSpeedShop Great. That's quick and easy to do. After connecting it this way, if the check valves are bad or ever go bad, will that cause a CEL to come on? I read a Tech note on the smog pumps, that said bad check valves can be the cause of seizures due to back flowing gases and such. Just making sure this would be safe for a permanant fix.?
@@groovinav The CEL shouldn't come on as long as the diverter valve is still hooked to vacuum. With the lines hooked together even if a check was bad it will just pass exhaust from one manifold to the other which won't hurt anything.
No sensor on 1995 and older with OBD-I computer. 1996-1997 HD F250 and F350 also no sensor as they have OBD-I as well. Will NOT work on 1996 F150 as that truck has OBD-II computer and will throw CEL.
Where do we find the plugs for the manifold? I'm not sure what exactly you're talking about... Am I plugging the tube or the hole in the manifold (or headers) itself?
It's best to plug the hole in the manifold with a plug. I replaced the passenger side manifold (due to a crack) with a Dorman aftermarket manifold and it came with a plug. Most of the after market manifolds supply both open bungs and plugs with their manifolds to fit engines with air injection or without. On the driver's side I had to cut off the tube at the bung and weld up the bung to close the hole, essentially making it a plug. I don't exactly know what the thread pitch and size of the plug needed is or I would have listed a source to get one. You might have to get a hold of Dorman and see if they will sell you two plugs separately.
I have a 1994 F-150 5.8L 4wd with automatic hubs and the 4wd isn’t working. I already went through the hubs and they appear to be in good functioning condition. I can’t find any other information on You Tube to see what to check next. The 4wd and 4wd lo lights light up on the dash when I shift the transfer case. My truck doesn’t have any type of button or dial for 4wd. Just the floor shifter. You seem fairly knowledgeable with these trucks so I thought I would ask you for some advice.
The transfer case shift in and out manually with your truck with the lever. Since the lights are lighting up it should indicate that the shifter linkage is working and the TC is going into 4WD. I would bet that the auto hubs are not engaging. I would remove the caps on the ends of the axle and grease the components and see if they are bound up. Another option would be to find a set of manual hubs at the junkyard and swap them onto your truck so you will be able to engage the hubs by hand.
QuickSpeedShop I pulled the hubs off and completely took them apart, cleaned and greased them following another you tube post. I could be wrong but they seemed to be moving according to the video. But if the light means the transfer case is working properly and there isn’t anything else in between the transfer case and the hubs that could cause it not to work it would have to be the hubs. Thank you for your response. Been beating my head against the wall with this thing. I also did a complete EGR and Smog delete on this truck and had headers and new exhaust put on. Truck runs so much better now. All those old vacuum lines were shot.
I wrote clearly in the description that you CANNOT do this to a 1996 with the OBD-II computer. It will throw a check engine light. Only 1995 and older and only the 1996-1997 HD trucks with OBD-I
I just got the same setup and replaced the pulley on the new bracket with the Dorman 419644 and I noticed that that idler pulley is just a hair smaller than the factory Air Pump pulley. I am assuming that the belt tensioner makes up for the difference. Did you notice that? Thanks for the information!!!
Did you have any issues with the serpentine belt after this? Shortly after I installed this bracket, the tensioner bracket bolt snapped, I installed a new one now I can’t get the belt to move straight.
You're not going to stress anything out with a different belt routing. The tensioner holds the same amount of tension on the belt no matter which way it runs.
@@QuickSpeedShop that's what I and 3 or4 other guys that have done it said. He was fairky adamant Im pretty sure he may have invebred trucks. Im getting ready to build this into a vankife camoer wuth 284k miles Need it to last to Atizona at least
i would like to do this but i rather bypass the pulley with a shorter belt. Does any one know what belt size i need for a 1989 E150 van with 5.0 motor ?
@@QuickSpeedShop I took the smog pump out. Thanks for your help. I just need to plug the colored vacuum lines that went over to the passenger side because right now my "check engine" light is on. The two big black hoses that ran over to the Driver's side I joined together with a piece of 1/2" PVC conduit (Perks of being an Industrial Electrician. LOL.
No. '96 F150 is the only OBS Ford that has OBD-II computer which will throw check engine light if smog pump not functional. All other OBS trucks used OBD-I which doesn't monitor pump function.
I have a 1989 ford bronco 5.0 sitting in a 1996 ford ranger .Can I replace stock upper and lower intake for the upper and lower 5.0 HO 1993-95 mustang Would I have to replace fuel rail and coils
Greetings! I have both a 95 F150 4.9L 300cui 93 f150 5.0 302 cui I am planning on doing a smog delete on both in steps.. Currently on my 93 5.0L with a locked smog pump. Like to remove the smog pump but leave the egr. My 95 4.9L has a broken exhaust system and I'm considered removing the smog system. I was so confused on all the different hosing and lines but watching you video has giving me some relief and hope that I can do this. I plan to block the egr off. Remove the air pump and run a bypass. Either by doing what you did by a idle dummy bracket with the original belt or run a smaller belt. And on the My question is . Would this somewhat work on my 5.0l and 4.9l? And the air emissions unit. It has 3lines to it right? Intake exhaust and air pump. Do you take the intake and exhaust ends the loop those together?
First of all this is for the smog pump only and not EGR. They are two different systems that act independent of each other. As for the 4.9L, don't know, never worked on one. As for the 5.0L, all you should have to do is buy the bracket and bolt it on as it is actually for a 5.0L to begin with. Read video description as the original part number in video is not in production anymore. Also far as I know the 5.0L is set up different with the smog tubes bolted to the back of the heads and not the manifolds like on the 5.8L. I just did a 5.0L and all I did was remove the smog pump, plug the hose to it and, bolt on the bracket. I left all the tubing and and vacuum lines in place.
@@QuickSpeedShop man this helps alot. Got a 88 5.0 and my pumps been squealing like a stuck pig. Im sure as hell not payin 300 for a new one. Thank you.
Could be a bad coil, distributor pickup, fuel pump issue or relay, computer issue, fuel pressure regulator...Without actually being there I can't diagnose it. Find someone with an old scanner and have them read the codes thru the plug on the inside of the left fender.
@@AntiMaxer no i haven`t done this yet. i took off the air pump , modified the bracket to fit a 130 amp 1995 mustang alternator ( pulley is slightly bigger) and i used a shorter belt and i also plugged off the holes in the back of the heads. she runs just fine
@@awh5773 can confirm it no longer exist plugged the tube to the cat the tube to the heads replaced both manifold which came with plugs left the tab and tad but plugged the lines to them removed about 60ft of hose and hard line and left the egr and evap system installed left the pump just acting as a pulley for now No CEL so im happy also cleaned did the valve covers and gaskets intake gasket egr gasket and cleaned and replaced throttle body gasket only one broken bolt truck seems happy
@Anti Maxer I also did all that as well. I did make an EGR block off plate out of a piece of flat aluminum and used 2 gaskets. I also made the wiring harness and moved the ignition module over to the drivers fender. I put an oil cooler on my 5.8L from a 1996 5.8L. Basically done all the stock upgrades. My 1988 5.8L f250 runs like a scalded ape. I also installed newer fuel injectors. From a 1995 e250 conversion van that look like the original one shot ones but these have 4 holes. And I actually got a K&N air filter for $2.00 at salvage yard. And I got the fresh air intake from a 300 inline 6 truck that goes from behind the grill to air filter box. I really can't tell you how much better this old 1988 f250 runs and I'm getting between 18 and 20 mpg , give or take a little. Was thinking about adding an electric cooling fan and removing the mechanical one to free up a little more power. . One last thing. Down on the frame where the fuel filter and abs pump are. There is supposed to be a heat shield. I never knew that. If you don't have one. Either make one or get one from salvage yard. Trust me. You need it.
The computer can't be reset that way. It will throw the check engine light if it doesn't see the oxygen sensor. The computer might run in open loop. Why do you want to remove it as the computer uses it to adjust fuel mapping.
I have made a plate to cover the hole and hold it in place with a shorter bolt, same thread. When you have the heads off in the future, tap the hole and plug it with an Allen plug. Done.
I showed it all in the video. Only pipes are to the manifolds and the diverter valve on top. I plugged and removed both manifold pipes and looped the diverter valve.
@@QuickSpeedShop hey couldn't find the proform part anymore, i had to get one from Ford after MONTHS of searching. Literally no one else has it or can get it
@@MavenFade In the description I added a part number for Americanmuscle.com. They have a 5.0L bracket in stock that should be the same as the Proform piece.
I have a 95 f150 4.9 my secondary air tube is messed up,i want to just plug the holes in the head, my question is what do I have to do to delete the smog and lines and vacuum and what do I do with the ego,thanks for any helps actually just posted a video of my Delia its 4 mins long,appretiate any feedback
I don't have any experience working on the 4.9L. If you remove the EGR it will probably throw the check engine light. The EGR and smog pump are two different systems that operate independent of each other. I don't know how the serpentine belt is run on the 4.9L. Not sure what size pulley or how to mount it to delete the smog pump.
@@QuickSpeedShop thanks brother I appreciate your feedback and reply your video and your comment was very helpful, ill post another video soon for update
I said that the bracket came with the 5.0L pulley. You need an AC idler pulley which is larger diameter to work with the smog bracket. Watch the video again, I clearly explain all parts involved. Read the description.
Yes i saw the complete video and understand it but the pulley you use is 132.5mm and my smog pump pulley measures 135.89mm i accidently bought the a/c pulley that come with the bracket and it measures 127mm so that one was far off did u have any issues with the one you used ? Was it the exact same size as your smog pump?
I didn't measure the pulleys so those diameters don't mean anything to me. On both trucks I have done, a 1995 and 1997, I used the pulleys in the video with the factory serpentine belt and it worked fine. Both trucks had original Ford smog pumps with the same size pulley. Both trucks were 5.8L. The 5.0L has a different belt length and different pulley size. If you are trying to do this on a 5.0L all you need to do is put in the smog delete bracket.
Well ill give it a shot and if ill make it work ill let you know incase some else asks you you can let them know thanks for actually replying a lot of people dont even reply
The air pumps fail and seize up. This mod removes the useless air injection system and replaces it with an idler pulley so you can still use stock size serpentine belt.
Other than a less busy engine bay what are the main upsides to this? You’re not losing a/c when you do this correct? 92 f150 5.8 I’m in Indiana where everything is legal lol
Air pump bearing tend to lock up, chuck the serpentine belt, and leave you in the lurch. This way just gives me piece of mind with a simple idler and no air tubes to rust out or leak.
If you read thru the comments you see I answered this several times. In a nut shell, removes access parts that fail on these old trucks and leave you stranded. Deletes obsolete technology that does little if any emissions reduction. Just showing how it can be done like Ford did it on the factory exempt trucks. I'm not debating on the "why" anymore. If you chose to do it here is how its done.
@@QuickSpeedShop Thanks! I was honestly asking why because I wasn't sure if it was a performance thing. I get replacing multiple older parts with one new part. I stumbled on your video trying to find out if my melted diverter valve was actually needed.
The smog pump elimination bracket and pulley are for a 5.0L application. I believe all you have to do is swap that part on your 5.0L, but I have never done one. I have only done the 5.8L which requires the bracket and bigger pulley.
In theory yes, if you want to figure out the right length belt. Then you need to remember which one fits if it breaks later on. I did it this way because it mimics the OEM way and uses the original belt.
Get the shorter belt and the replacement part is × # of ribs in × length in millimeters. Just right it down under the hood or in the owners manual. Easy peasy.
I believe so as I just did one on a '88 E150 van. I don't know how the air injection is set up on your F250, but the bracket should work. Be sure to read vid decription or comments for updated parts numbers.
Because your F150 uses an OBD-II computer and it will throw a check engine light. My delete only works on the '95 and down F150 that uses the OBD-I computer.
No idea. I can't verify that would work or not. All I know is that the OBD-II knows when the air injection is not operable and the older OBD-I does not.
This video has been so helpful, I appreciate you taking the time to make it. Some part is confusing to me though, I think the 97 f250hd 351w has a different air pump setup. Your pump feeds into the front of the passenger manifold. My truck has only the egr solenoid with pipe going straight to the same point. The driver’s side manifold has a large port in rear that wraps behind the engine and leads to the pump. All the videos I have watched have the driver side manifold without an extra bung. I have been stumped on finding the records or diagrams of the different smog/egr iterations for the truck. My truck seems to be an outlier. I did find that the 1987-95 shorties are different than the 96 shorties from Holley so maybe that is a clue. Any help would be appreciated!
I have done this '95 and a '97 and they were both identical. Only the EGR goes into the front of the pass manifold. If you look closely at the parts on the table you can see the EGR tube. The air pump is hooked to the black sheet metal tube with the hoses on it that bolts to the engine. The pipes are laying over each other making it look like the air pump goes to the front of the manifold which it does not. The driver's side only has the rear port which I cut off and welded up. I replaced the pass manifold because it was broken and it came with a plug for the rear air tube.
hahaha what a prank! it all makes sense now. Did you omit the air canister- it think that’s what it’s called. The rounded cube that has the vacuum lines to it on the passenger wheel well
I don't know your laws in NM. Your truck is different because you have a '96 F-150. That is the first year for OBD-II computer system. If you do this mod it will throw check engine light. Read description above. Can only remove air pump on OBD-I computer controlled trucks.
The process should be the same for the manifolds and the air pipes. As far as the air pump idler and pulley I don't know. I know that a 5.0L and 5.8L have different belt lengths. The stock pulley on the new idler might work on the 5.0L, but have never tried one. I also believe that the belt routing maybe different, but don't know for sure. I have only done this on the 5.8L trucks.
I pulled the entire system off of mine. You can buy a spoof plug that will fool the solenoid to think that its still there- just buy the ones made for the mustang, it works to keep the check engine light off. BUT - the problem I'm having is the computer thinks it is still there and so when it warms up, I will get a stall-out at idle speeds. This is the exact position where that monstrosity of a convoluted system did anything. I'm going to try when he did here and have the system blow air back to itself. Otherwise my truck runs fine and it cleaned the engine compartment up a ton.
The Onboard Diagnostic Computer Version 1 that was used up until 1995 and is a pretty basic computer system with minimal monitoring. OBD-II came out in 1996 and monitors many more things including smog pump system
I haven't done one so not sure. I would assume that the air pump is the same from the I6 and the V8, but I don't know how the lines are layed out on the six.
@@QuickSpeedShop The pump looks to be in the same place below the alternator. I'm wondering if the air pump idler and pulley will work. I assume the new pulley takes a bolt. I will let you know if I have any success. Great video by the way. One of the best I have seen.
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I live in Canada and researching these parts are not as cheap as you mention. But with your video looking up part numbers you have saved me $150. thank you
update, amazon sent me a pair of shorts instead of the bracket for Christ sakes... I'm back to spending $180 for it... but still a great video!
I have a 96 ford f 250, been fixing it as things break, it has about 400 thousand miles on it, and pretty much regularly, something breaks or needs repair about every week. The other day, the smog pump seized up, it was a 15 dollar part at the junkyard. I have no idea how long ago the pump stopped working, but the genuine difference in the performance of the truck was instantly recognizable.
The engine idle is smooth and balanced, the acceleration is surprisingly responsive and the gas mileage has improved tremendously. Up until the past week or so that I fixed the air pump by replacing it, the truck was something of a real problem to drive, it felt like the truck was always struggling to go up a hill. It is a work truck that works for a living, and often it is driven at just above an idle, about 25 miles or so. usually it takes about two hours, once the pump was replaced and operating, did the whole route pattern in less than 90 minutes. In the mid 90's Ford was still trying to figure out fuel injection, while your video suggests altering the system, I have always tried to rebuild the operating systems to its original function of design. I have owned this truck about 14 years, and with a whole list of new parts and improvements on the vehicle, I am going to keep it as close to original as possible. The trucks now are plastic and not built for work, the old timer vehicles were made for working, and around my house, if the truck doesn't work, nobody gets to eat.
I'm going to guess by what you described that the pump was seizing up for a while and dragging the engine down with it. When it finally locked up and you replaced it with a junkyard piece that turned freely the engine was able to operate at normal load again.
@@QuickSpeedShop I have no idea how long it was out, at 400 thousand miles, there are funny noises from everywhere, I put in a double roller timing chain, and it has all its horsepower, almost 25 years later. It started grinding, then stopped overnight.
I was wondering how to verify that the smog air pump is actually working before replacing or removing it.
Thanks for any feed back.
If you have exhaust noises get a bright flashlight and look at your manifolds for cracks, both of mine have broken.
I would make sure using a good exhaust gaskets, checking the flatness of the replacement manifolds and re-torqueing after a couple heat cycles by loosening then torqueing again. Maybe use brass nuts to secure the manifolds.
@@wilfredomaldonado1779 Ni siquiera te molestas en usar Google translate. Que falta de respeto.
@@zh9119 jajaja jajajaja eso que me lo diga la persona a quien le comento a ti no te interesa no eres más que un pobre pendejo si tiene es problema dime yo te puedo ayudar a resolver tu problema no es contigo pendejo
Learning what others have done.Thank you. I do appreciate this information.
How about installing a 2nd Alternator in place of the smog pump in order to charge auxiliary batteries for campers and such?
That would be a cool idea
I wanna put a supercharger where my smog pump was.
Route those air tubes from the pump to the air box instead of the exhaust. BOOM factory blower truck now lol MOOPOWA BABY
I didn’t really understand the looping part 😅would you please explain it to me. I’m new to working on cars, I just got my first truck and it looks like this one but it has a 5.0 not a 5.8. Thanks in advance!!
What does this mean? More details please
love it. much better than the way i did it. A+++++++ thank you for sharing.
Air pump seized on my f250, so I installed a smaller serpentine belt and bypassed it. No need for an idler pulley!
what belt did you replace it with/. Mine just seized and I have a hurricane coming at me in 2 days. thanks
Thank you !!!!!!! Saved my a ton of time.
I found out that skinny fan on the passenger wheel well is the fuel injector cooling fan. It blows air through a tube to each injector to prevent difficult warm starts.
What do you mean skinny fan pass. Wheel well
Ok ordered the pulley, and bracket with tax was 145 ish. Broke my 1st exhaust man. Bolt. Hope I can use these bolt outs to get a bite on the stud.
👍
If anyone wants to run a shorter belt i am using a 923K6 in my 91 e350 with 5.8L. 923= length, K6=number of rips.
Do you know this pulley is completely unnecessary? Just take off the pump and buy a belt a few inches shorter. Cheaper than this and you get a new belt in case yours is worn. I forget the exact length but you don’t need that pulley. This also increases the contact area of the belt to pulleys. All that idler pulley you added does is make it easier for the belt to slip.
It’s what I did to my 94 5.0
How did you tighten shorter belt, the tensioner goes the wrong way with smog pump removed.
So will this same set up work on a 1988 e250 351w? We really need to eliminate the smog pump on this vehicle and can't find any info on it.
I would think so as long as the 351 has the serpentine belt setup the same as the OBS trucks.
Looking to do the same for an ‘88 F250 I just purchased.
Get it to work? I may try this on my 89 f150 302
I recently watched your exhaust video , I live your channel , I recently picked up a reg cab long box f350 with the 5.8 . I need to replace the hubs as one was missing . My long term goal is to straight axle the front then level it as the rear leafs look a lil saggy . Cheers
If you find a 76 bronco you can take the Dana 44 from the front of it and there’s a kit online that gives you everything you need to straight axle swap it 👍🏼
@@jakeandavery8289
Thanks for the reply I will look for a 76 Bronco . Cheers
@@jakeandavery8289 Do you mean 96 ?
My smog pump is off. It came that when when I bought it. I bought the bracket and pulley. Do you know the size bolts/thread and length that is needed? my truck is missing them.
The bolts are SAE thread, not metric. I believe the top bolt is 7/16-14, but not sure how long it is,. Just measure your bracket and add an inch or so and that will be the correct length. I think the shorter lower bolt is 3/8-14, but you could find a bolt that fits if you have it in your hand.
Good info! Keep em coming.
How did you go about removing the charcoal canister? Did you plug the line coming from the fuel tank or leave it open so the fuel tank can vent?
I didn't touch the fuel system. This only bypasses the air pump.
The pully assembly is hard as heck to find these days. Cheapest I found from a reputable shop/stor was $119. The pully itself was cheaper.
Just look up the part number and name online I found it for like 54 bucks let me know if you need a link
Summit should have it
Got the pulley and bracket took out air pump it all fit. I just havent run it yet have other things I'm working on need new vacuum lines .
👍
I used tuffstuff 1700 bracket and the dorman pulley . It came out great luckily my 93 f250 had pipes that went to the cat so I didn't have to block then off since they weren't there.
My bracket costs 60 shipped compared to the 130 Ford bracket.
Maybe it's worth doing an update
I bought the bracket he says to and there isn’t enough clearance for the belt to get on
@@josephlanoue1595 you have something wrong
What if you just loop the Air Pump like you did with the valves? Or run it straight to the solenoids. I have a exhaust leak somewhere, guessing its either the manifolds or the egr piping in the back
The problem is that the air pumps will seize up and throw the belt, that's the main reason I remove them. Sounds like you could either have a cracked manifold, which is common, or a smog tube that is leaking, although I think the newer ones are made of stainless so that don't usually rust off.
@@QuickSpeedShop Good call. Thanks! Great video, helped me understand the system much better. ++ for including part numbers!
FYI, PSA. I'm doing this air pump conversion this weekend in my 1992 E250 5.8. Some stuff you cant find anymore. But at Rockauto I got the correct pulley for the 5.8. GATES 38029 $9.60. That Proform bracket is NLA as well. Had to go to AmericanMuscle and order the real Ford smog pump eliminator kit 50271 for $99.99. But my pump has blown seals and leaks oil all over the place so i have to do this. As in your other vids. I a also changing my exhaust manifolds but this is a lot easier on a van with a dog house.
I listed other options in the comments and description as other people had stated the same lack of availability of parts I used in the video.
@@QuickSpeedShop what sides belt did you use
Okay, this is not totally related to this change, but I have a 89 f150 with the 4.9 inline 6. It is fuel injected. The smog pump is not long for this world. there is a fan above it on the wheel well that runs after I shut the engine off on lot days. I don't know what it cools, but if I delete the smog pump, will that cooling fan still do it's job? Thanks.
I'm not sure what the fan would be for, but it shouldn't have anything to do with the smog pump.
Would the parts you used work on my 1995 250 7.5 L? If not, how do I find the right part to mount a pulley like you did?
I don't think they made a factory bypass for the big block. I have worked on one so I'm not familiar with the belt layout.
@@QuickSpeedShop, thank you for your reply. I'll do more looking into. BTW, your videos are great and are a big help!
What if you kept the smog pump and just put the air injection directly to the egr port?
The point of the video is to remove it because they seize up and leave you stranded.
My smog pump rattles like crazy when engine is running. Its the second aftermarket pump put in. Is this a symptom of bad pump? If deleted it should sound like a normal engine?
Yes, bearing are bad in it. Just do the bypass pulley and never worry about it again. It's been 45k since I made this video on my truck.
Where can I get the correct size manifold plugs I need to complete this job? I don't have a way to weld the ends as you had suggested, so I'd like to find the correct plugs that would work instead. Could you possibly put a link in the description, or list the part number I would need to do that part? I appreciate the help Sir. Great video. Thank you.
I looked on the internet and am having a hard time finding the blank off plugs listed separately. You can get the EGR tube connector fitting which will have the correct thread on the non nippled end. You could get two of those and have someone weld the nippled ends up for you. Dorman makes them, their under $15 each. Just search 5.8L EGR tube connector. If you could find out the NPT thread size of the connector you could probably find a black plug with same thread to plug rear manifold holes.
@@QuickSpeedShop Ok cool. I'll check it out. Question though. Is it the same principle, except for the parts removal, if I simply connect the incoming and outgoing hoses together, right at the smog pump location? Would that work, just to get me back on the road for now? The one on my 1997 f250 5.8 HD has seized up. At least it didn't leave me stranded though. I've owned this truck since new and has never let me down. Coming up on 300K miles and I want to make it over the mark. Thanks again for your help. This has helped me out, and I ordered the part numbers you provided in this video. I just need to figure out an easy way to do the tubing bypass, so that my truck will run again. Thank you for your help Sir.
@@groovinav Actually that should work. If you leave those check valves in the lines in place it won't backfeed and you could just hook the lines together with some hose. I don't see why that wouldn't work.
@@QuickSpeedShop Great. That's quick and easy to do. After connecting it this way, if the check valves are bad or ever go bad, will that cause a CEL to come on? I read a Tech note on the smog pumps, that said bad check valves can be the cause of seizures due to back flowing gases and such. Just making sure this would be safe for a permanant fix.?
@@groovinav The CEL shouldn't come on as long as the diverter valve is still hooked to vacuum. With the lines hooked together even if a check was bad it will just pass exhaust from one manifold to the other which won't hurt anything.
Does it have a sensor thats telling it the computer thats air injection system is not working?
No sensor on 1995 and older with OBD-I computer. 1996-1997 HD F250 and F350 also no sensor as they have OBD-I as well. Will NOT work on 1996 F150 as that truck has OBD-II computer and will throw CEL.
Where do we find the plugs for the manifold? I'm not sure what exactly you're talking about... Am I plugging the tube or the hole in the manifold (or headers) itself?
It's best to plug the hole in the manifold with a plug. I replaced the passenger side manifold (due to a crack) with a Dorman aftermarket manifold and it came with a plug. Most of the after market manifolds supply both open bungs and plugs with their manifolds to fit engines with air injection or without. On the driver's side I had to cut off the tube at the bung and weld up the bung to close the hole, essentially making it a plug. I don't exactly know what the thread pitch and size of the plug needed is or I would have listed a source to get one. You might have to get a hold of Dorman and see if they will sell you two plugs separately.
I have a 1994 F-150 5.8L 4wd with automatic hubs and the 4wd isn’t working. I already went through the hubs and they appear to be in good functioning condition. I can’t find any other information on You Tube to see what to check next. The 4wd and 4wd lo lights light up on the dash when I shift the transfer case. My truck doesn’t have any type of button or dial for 4wd. Just the floor shifter. You seem fairly knowledgeable with these trucks so I thought I would ask you for some advice.
The transfer case shift in and out manually with your truck with the lever. Since the lights are lighting up it should indicate that the shifter linkage is working and the TC is going into 4WD. I would bet that the auto hubs are not engaging. I would remove the caps on the ends of the axle and grease the components and see if they are bound up. Another option would be to find a set of manual hubs at the junkyard and swap them onto your truck so you will be able to engage the hubs by hand.
QuickSpeedShop I pulled the hubs off and completely took them apart, cleaned and greased them following another you tube post. I could be wrong but they seemed to be moving according to the video. But if the light means the transfer case is working properly and there isn’t anything else in between the transfer case and the hubs that could cause it not to work it would have to be the hubs. Thank you for your response. Been beating my head against the wall with this thing. I also did a complete EGR and Smog delete on this truck and had headers and new exhaust put on. Truck runs so much better now. All those old vacuum lines were shot.
Automatic hubs is the devil
Why do you have the connecting hose so long? Could it be shorter?
I wanted at a glance to look like the hoses go to the manifolds behind the intake like factory.
What did you use to plug the spot where the air tube feeds into the cat?
The air doesn't go to the cat on this truck. The '80s trucks did that. You're going to have to crimp it off and weld it shut.
How do you get past the check engine light? I have a 96 5.0 with obd2 please help.
I wrote clearly in the description that you CANNOT do this to a 1996 with the OBD-II computer. It will throw a check engine light. Only 1995 and older and only the 1996-1997 HD trucks with OBD-I
@@QuickSpeedShop ok thanks
I just got the same setup and replaced the pulley on the new bracket with the Dorman 419644 and I noticed that that idler pulley is just a hair smaller than the factory Air Pump pulley. I am assuming that the belt tensioner makes up for the difference. Did you notice that? Thanks for the information!!!
I didn't notice the size difference, but the tensioner does take it up.
Did you have any issues with the serpentine belt after this? Shortly after I installed this bracket, the tensioner bracket bolt snapped, I installed a new one now I can’t get the belt to move straight.
No. Run this truck almost 50K since this video was made. Also did the same thing on my other truck and also my van and never had any problems.
Would this same set up work on a 96 4.9
I've just been using a non ac serpentine
But im tokd that may cause stress problems on other components
You're not going to stress anything out with a different belt routing. The tensioner holds the same amount of tension on the belt no matter which way it runs.
@@QuickSpeedShop that's what I and 3 or4 other guys that have done it said.
He was fairky adamant
Im pretty sure he may have invebred trucks.
Im getting ready to build this into a vankife camoer wuth 284k miles
Need it to last to Atizona at least
i would like to do this but i rather bypass the pulley with a shorter belt. Does any one know what belt size i need for a 1989 E150 van with 5.0 motor ?
I have a 923k6 on my E350 with 5.8L
I wonder if this will work for 1991 Ford F-250 with the 5.8 (351 Windsor) engine in it.
It should work the same in theory, but I have not attempted on the '87-'91 trucks
@@QuickSpeedShop I took the smog pump out. Thanks for your help. I just need to plug the colored vacuum lines that went over to the passenger side because right now my "check engine" light is on. The two big black hoses that ran over to the Driver's side I joined together with a piece of 1/2" PVC conduit (Perks of being an Industrial Electrician. LOL.
@@IBEWelectronut Did you get the check engine light to turn off? Any issues with running this way?
What did you end up doing for the lower bolt on the idler pulley , longer bolt nut and washer
It uses the factory bolt. Bolt goes in from the back just like it did on the smog pump.
@@QuickSpeedShop the bottom of the bracket is not threaded I was wondering what you threaded the bottom bracket bolt into
The one I used was threaded. If yours isn't then you'll have to thru bolt it.
I don't have any smog stuff on my truck would this make it run at a higher idle
Air pump has nothing to do with idle. Could be bad IAC (idle air control), throttle position sensor, vacuum leak, bound up throttle cable.
Yes! Thanks for sharing
Ok 89 5.8 bronco where do I get bracket and pulley
Read the description and comments, I list part numbers and different sources.
Where did you get the plugs for the exhaust?
It came with the replacement manifold. I welded up the driver's side plug.
There is a 3.39mm difference would that still work with the factory size belt?
Thats 1/64” more than 1/8” being 9/64”
Will this also work on a 96 5.0 f150
No. '96 F150 is the only OBS Ford that has OBD-II computer which will throw check engine light if smog pump not functional. All other OBS trucks used OBD-I which doesn't monitor pump function.
I have a 1989 ford bronco 5.0 sitting in a 1996 ford ranger .Can I replace stock upper and lower intake for the upper and lower 5.0 HO 1993-95 mustang Would I have to replace fuel rail and coils
Not sure, never done it.
@@QuickSpeedShop ok thank you
Can't get that bracket though...I ordered that proform 68110 and it's a different bracket then in this video
Check video description. I updated where there seems to be parts. Ford Racing has the 5.0L/5/8L bracket.
Greetings!
I have both a
95 F150 4.9L 300cui
93 f150 5.0 302 cui
I am planning on doing a smog delete on both in steps.. Currently on my 93 5.0L with a locked smog pump. Like to remove the smog pump but leave the egr.
My 95 4.9L has a broken exhaust system and I'm considered removing the smog system.
I was so confused on all the different hosing and lines but watching you video has giving me some relief and hope that I can do this.
I plan to block the egr off. Remove the air pump and run a bypass. Either by doing what you did by a idle dummy bracket with the original belt or run a smaller belt.
And on the
My question is . Would this somewhat work on my 5.0l and 4.9l? And the air emissions unit. It has 3lines to it right? Intake exhaust and air pump. Do you take the intake and exhaust ends the loop those together?
First of all this is for the smog pump only and not EGR. They are two different systems that act independent of each other. As for the 4.9L, don't know, never worked on one. As for the 5.0L, all you should have to do is buy the bracket and bolt it on as it is actually for a 5.0L to begin with. Read video description as the original part number in video is not in production anymore. Also far as I know the 5.0L is set up different with the smog tubes bolted to the back of the heads and not the manifolds like on the 5.8L. I just did a 5.0L and all I did was remove the smog pump, plug the hose to it and, bolt on the bracket. I left all the tubing and and vacuum lines in place.
@@QuickSpeedShop man this helps alot. Got a 88 5.0 and my pumps been squealing like a stuck pig. Im sure as hell not payin 300 for a new one. Thank you.
Thanks a million for making video!
I have an 88 with same motor. Looks like the same set up but you said it only works for 92-97?
Never worked on '87-'91 so wasn't sure. It should work the same
I have a 1990 f150 .it runs good for about 20 miles then it acts like it's not getting fuel and shuts off. Any ideas on what causes it?
Could be a bad coil, distributor pickup, fuel pump issue or relay, computer issue, fuel pressure regulator...Without actually being there I can't diagnose it. Find someone with an old scanner and have them read the codes thru the plug on the inside of the left fender.
After making these upgrades, have you ever have a problem with high idle?
No, haven't had anything like that happen. I did this on two trucks and haven't had any trouble.
@@QuickSpeedShop ok thank u
would this bracket and pulley work on a 1988 f250 5.8L ? i know the air pump is the same for an 1987-1996 according to the part stores that is
Most likely although I haven't worked on the '87-'91 trucks so can't say with 100% certainty
i have a 89 250 5.8 with the tubes on both sides did you ever end up doing this and how'd it go?
@@AntiMaxer no i haven`t done this yet. i took off the air pump , modified the bracket to fit a 130 amp 1995 mustang alternator ( pulley is slightly bigger) and i used a shorter belt and i also plugged off the holes in the back of the heads. she runs just fine
@@awh5773 can confirm it no longer exist plugged the tube to the cat the tube to the heads replaced both manifold which came with plugs left the tab and tad but plugged the lines to them removed about 60ft of hose and hard line and left the egr and evap system installed left the pump just acting as a pulley for now No CEL so im happy also cleaned did the valve covers and gaskets intake gasket egr gasket and cleaned and replaced throttle body gasket only one broken bolt truck seems happy
@Anti Maxer I also did all that as well. I did make an EGR block off plate out of a piece of flat aluminum and used 2 gaskets. I also made the wiring harness and moved the ignition module over to the drivers fender. I put an oil cooler on my 5.8L from a 1996 5.8L. Basically done all the stock upgrades. My 1988 5.8L f250 runs like a scalded ape. I also installed newer fuel injectors. From a 1995 e250 conversion van that look like the original one shot ones but these have 4 holes. And I actually got a K&N air filter for $2.00 at salvage yard. And I got the fresh air intake from a 300 inline 6 truck that goes from behind the grill to air filter box. I really can't tell you how much better this old 1988 f250 runs and I'm getting between 18 and 20 mpg , give or take a little. Was thinking about adding an electric cooling fan and removing the mechanical one to free up a little more power. . One last thing. Down on the frame where the fuel filter and abs pump are. There is supposed to be a heat shield. I never knew that. If you don't have one. Either make one or get one from salvage yard. Trust me. You need it.
This previous comment about air tubes meaning the 2 coming from the pump route them to the air cleaner is that what they mean
The computer can't be reset that way. It will throw the check engine light if it doesn't see the oxygen sensor. The computer might run in open loop. Why do you want to remove it as the computer uses it to adjust fuel mapping.
Just trying to get rid of non essentials
Ok bad idea about 02 sensor
Will the new Dorman idler work on a 302/5.0?
The idler is for a 5.0L. The reason I add the bigger pulley is to make it work on the 5.8L.
What did you do about the crossover pipe on the back of the heads the air injection reactor pipe?
I removed it.
@@QuickSpeedShop what's the best way to get the passenger side bolt out I'm having trouble getting to it?
I used some extensions and a universal joint.
@@QuickSpeedShop what did you use to plug them?
I have made a plate to cover the hole and hold it in place with a shorter bolt, same thread.
When you have the heads off in the future, tap the hole and plug it with an Allen plug. Done.
My 94 F150 302 is nothing like that. I have replaced both manifolds and there is no fitting in the front end, it's in the back of the cyl heads.
I did the same mod on the 302 in my 1988 E150. I left all the smog tubes in place and just removed the pump and added the idler.
Great Job! What about all the hookups down the back of the engine? Are they affected in doing this?
I showed it all in the video. Only pipes are to the manifolds and the diverter valve on top. I plugged and removed both manifold pipes and looped the diverter valve.
Could you explain how you exactly you plugged and looped those not much room back there
i cant find any one who sells the proform 68110 any links please i have a 1995 ford bronco 5.0 will it work
Americanmuscle.com has a 5.0L bracket M-8604-A50 that looks the same as the Proform piece.
@@QuickSpeedShop Sweet thanks a lot bro I really appreciate it
@@QuickSpeedShop sweet i just ordered it thanks bro
@@joeclark9042 👍
I confess I'm ignorant of this but what is the purpose of this modification?
Read the description and comments. Answered this several times
Does this cause any fuel exhaust smell when removed or does it burn pretty clean.
No difference. Oxygen sensor and computer control fuel mixture unrelated to smog pump.
@@QuickSpeedShop could it's cause a loss of power if the hard line to the back end of the exhaust is cut?
No.
BAM! Removing excess engine hardware is a good idea.
Right! 👍
@@QuickSpeedShop hey couldn't find the proform part anymore, i had to get one from Ford after MONTHS of searching. Literally no one else has it or can get it
@@MavenFade In the description I added a part number for Americanmuscle.com. They have a 5.0L bracket in stock that should be the same as the Proform piece.
Its weight reduction because race car! Plus now he can put a good set of headers on there to another 20hp give or take
What are the perks of doing this, is there any increase in gas mileage or power or anything substantial?
No increase in mileage. Just getting rid of bogus emission junk that can seize up or rust off and leave you broke down for no reason.
QuickSpeedShop alrighty cool to know thanks man 😃
It cleans up the engine compartment a bunch. Also- it will make it 10x easier to get in there and work on anything in the future.
Less carbon build up without burning spent gasses.
Bypass the heater hose going thru the tb while you’re at it. Keep them IAC temps low
I have a 95 f150 4.9 my secondary air tube is messed up,i want to just plug the holes in the head, my question is what do I have to do to delete the smog and lines and vacuum and what do I do with the ego,thanks for any helps actually just posted a video of my Delia its 4 mins long,appretiate any feedback
I don't have any experience working on the 4.9L. If you remove the EGR it will probably throw the check engine light. The EGR and smog pump are two different systems that operate independent of each other. I don't know how the serpentine belt is run on the 4.9L. Not sure what size pulley or how to mount it to delete the smog pump.
@@QuickSpeedShop thanks brother I appreciate your feedback and reply your video and your comment was very helpful, ill post another video soon for update
@@JM-bj9zy 👍
Do you have a video of this truck running after the delete?
No, but its been about 30k miles since I made this video. I drive it everyday.
@@QuickSpeedShop just curious is there any increase performance or mpg?
Do I need to remove everything that’s removed on this truck to do this? I don’t think I trust myself that much. Is there another way😅
Yes
I was wondering if this would work for a 1990 5.8. The way it looks it should all be the same?
I haven't done one of that year, but if the serpentine belt layout looks the same I would guess yes.
What is the benefit of doing this over replacing the Air pump?
Air pumps seize up and leave you stranded, idlers do not. Also, the air injection is old useless technology that does nothing for emissions.
Where did you buy the Bracket and the Pulley?
I put an update in the description. Apparently the Proform part I bought at Jegs might be discontinued.
Will this work on a 302 truck
Yes, the bracket and pulley are actually for a 5.0L. Read some of the comments, I have answered this several times.
Do you know if this set up works on a 1994 Lightning?
I would guess so, but haven't seen under the hood of a Lightning so I can't say for sure.
@@QuickSpeedShop Thanks for your quick response, I found a kit on LMR.com and ordered it.
@@lintsausage do you have the link to the actual kit? Or part number? Thanks I have the same truck
@@hectorfarias4373 go to LMR.com they have the kit for the lightnings.
I got the bracket but the pulley you showed appear smaller than my smog pump pulley
I said that the bracket came with the 5.0L pulley. You need an AC idler pulley which is larger diameter to work with the smog bracket. Watch the video again, I clearly explain all parts involved. Read the description.
Yes i saw the complete video and understand it but the pulley you use is 132.5mm and my smog pump pulley measures 135.89mm i accidently bought the a/c pulley that come with the bracket and it measures 127mm so that one was far off did u have any issues with the one you used ? Was it the exact same size as your smog pump?
I didn't measure the pulleys so those diameters don't mean anything to me. On both trucks I have done, a 1995 and 1997, I used the pulleys in the video with the factory serpentine belt and it worked fine. Both trucks had original Ford smog pumps with the same size pulley. Both trucks were 5.8L. The 5.0L has a different belt length and different pulley size. If you are trying to do this on a 5.0L all you need to do is put in the smog delete bracket.
Well ill give it a shot and if ill make it work ill let you know incase some else asks you you can let them know thanks for actually replying a lot of people dont even reply
pardon my ignorance but what does this mod accomplish? I just picked up a 97 f250 5.8.
The air pumps fail and seize up. This mod removes the useless air injection system and replaces it with an idler pulley so you can still use stock size serpentine belt.
Does the computer not throw code 327 for the sensor on the egr position sensor
That's what I'm throwing now so I'm replacing sensor on top on egr first thinking about cleaning it maybe also
@@jamesdean1673 I have never had the EGR code. Removing the air pump doesn't affect the EGR function.
@@jamesdean1673 buy the spoof plug. The mustang one fits it fine. I "think" the method used here tricks it to think it's still there.
Other than a less busy engine bay what are the main upsides to this? You’re not losing a/c when you do this correct? 92 f150 5.8 I’m in Indiana where everything is legal lol
Air pump bearing tend to lock up, chuck the serpentine belt, and leave you in the lurch. This way just gives me piece of mind with a simple idler and no air tubes to rust out or leak.
What change does this have on the truck? Why do it?
If you read thru the comments you see I answered this several times. In a nut shell, removes access parts that fail on these old trucks and leave you stranded. Deletes obsolete technology that does little if any emissions reduction. Just showing how it can be done like Ford did it on the factory exempt trucks. I'm not debating on the "why" anymore. If you chose to do it here is how its done.
@@QuickSpeedShop Thanks! I was honestly asking why because I wasn't sure if it was a performance thing. I get replacing multiple older parts with one new part. I stumbled on your video trying to find out if my melted diverter valve was actually needed.
does this work on a 1989-1990 5.0 ford bronco sir
The smog pump elimination bracket and pulley are for a 5.0L application. I believe all you have to do is swap that part on your 5.0L, but I have never done one. I have only done the 5.8L which requires the bracket and bigger pulley.
BUEN TRABAJO YO NECESITO UNO DE ESOS PARA QUITAR EL QUEMADOR DE GASES
Nobody seems to sell this bracket anymore. Any ideas where you can get one of these?
Americanmuscle.com has a 5.0L bracket M-8604-A50 that looks the same as the Proform piece.
I overpaid and got it from Ford Racing
You don't need it. Get a shorter belt.
Wouldnt it be cheaper and easier to just remove the pump and everything and get a smaller belt?
In theory yes, if you want to figure out the right length belt. Then you need to remember which one fits if it breaks later on. I did it this way because it mimics the OEM way and uses the original belt.
That's what I did. works fine. I suppose you would just write the size down.
Get the shorter belt and the replacement part is × # of ribs in × length in millimeters. Just right it down under the hood or in the owners manual. Easy peasy.
Will this work on a 1991 f250 with 5.8l 351w
I believe so as I just did one on a '88 E150 van. I don't know how the air injection is set up on your F250, but the bracket should work. Be sure to read vid decription or comments for updated parts numbers.
How does the computer in my 96 f150 302 know that the smog pump has been deleted ?
Because your F150 uses an OBD-II computer and it will throw a check engine light. My delete only works on the '95 and down F150 that uses the OBD-I computer.
@@QuickSpeedShop I have heard that I can purchase a egr sensor Eliminator plug that make the computer run in a closed position.
No idea. I can't verify that would work or not. All I know is that the OBD-II knows when the air injection is not operable and the older OBD-I does not.
I'll let you know if this worked on my 89 bronco 5.8 thanks
Ok 👍
Won’t this cause your EFI to work inefficiently?
No. Has nothing to do with the fuel system what so ever.
Are you from Pennsylvania?
No, NY.
Ford performance bracket will work M-8604-A50
Looks good. But you can just use a shorter belt. Dont need the puller at all. 97 ⅛th" belt with pulley delete.
I answered this many times in the comments. Yes, you can. This video is to show how to do it like the factory did with an idler.
I was looking to see if anyone was going mention a shorter belt. One less bearing to spin, fewer moving parts, more simple, less parasitic loss.
The pulley number from AutoZone is slightly smaller than the pulley in the air pump
How much is slightly smaller? As long as its within probably 90% overall diameter it should work.
This video has been so helpful, I appreciate you taking the time to make it.
Some part is confusing to me though, I think the 97 f250hd 351w has a different air pump setup.
Your pump feeds into the front of the passenger manifold. My truck has only the egr solenoid with pipe going straight to the same point.
The driver’s side manifold has a large port in rear that wraps behind the engine and leads to the pump.
All the videos I have watched have the driver side manifold without an extra bung. I have been stumped on finding the records or diagrams of the different smog/egr iterations for the truck. My truck seems to be an outlier. I did find that the 1987-95 shorties are different than the 96 shorties from Holley so maybe that is a clue.
Any help would be appreciated!
I have done this '95 and a '97 and they were both identical. Only the EGR goes into the front of the pass manifold. If you look closely at the parts on the table you can see the EGR tube. The air pump is hooked to the black sheet metal tube with the hoses on it that bolts to the engine. The pipes are laying over each other making it look like the air pump goes to the front of the manifold which it does not. The driver's side only has the rear port which I cut off and welded up. I replaced the pass manifold because it was broken and it came with a plug for the rear air tube.
hahaha what a prank! it all makes sense now. Did you omit the air canister- it think that’s what it’s called. The rounded cube that has the vacuum lines to it on the passenger wheel well
Can i do this? I live in Albuquerque, New Mexico USA? I really want to do this on my 96 F150!
I don't know your laws in NM. Your truck is different because you have a '96 F-150. That is the first year for OBD-II computer system. If you do this mod it will throw check engine light. Read description above. Can only remove air pump on OBD-I computer controlled trucks.
What about 87-91 5.8 engines?
The premise should apply, but I'm not sure about belt routing and the delete pulley. I have only done this on OBS trucks.
So smart thank you .
Will this work on a 5.0?
The process should be the same for the manifolds and the air pipes. As far as the air pump idler and pulley I don't know. I know that a 5.0L and 5.8L have different belt lengths. The stock pulley on the new idler might work on the 5.0L, but have never tried one. I also believe that the belt routing maybe different, but don't know for sure. I have only done this on the 5.8L trucks.
Can you illuminate the EGR valve or bypass somehow.
I don't know how to eliminate the EGR without turning on the check engine light. I know that is monitored by the OBD-I system.
@@QuickSpeedShop thank you for your quick response
I pulled the entire system off of mine. You can buy a spoof plug that will fool the solenoid to think that its still there- just buy the ones made for the mustang, it works to keep the check engine light off. BUT - the problem I'm having is the computer thinks it is still there and so when it warms up, I will get a stall-out at idle speeds. This is the exact position where that monstrosity of a convoluted system did anything. I'm going to try when he did here and have the system blow air back to itself. Otherwise my truck runs fine and it cleaned the engine compartment up a ton.
What is an ODO 1 computer ?
The Onboard Diagnostic Computer Version 1 that was used up until 1995 and is a pretty basic computer system with minimal monitoring. OBD-II came out in 1996 and monitors many more things including smog pump system
@@QuickSpeedShop You missed jab , at ODO vs OBD childish of me .
Awesome awesome. thank you for video
Thanks!
Will it still pass emissions?
In my state, '95 and older are exempt from emissions testing.
Will that work on a '94 F-150 4.9L?
I haven't done one so not sure. I would assume that the air pump is the same from the I6 and the V8, but I don't know how the lines are layed out on the six.
@@QuickSpeedShop The pump looks to be in the same place below the alternator. I'm wondering if the air pump idler and pulley will work. I assume the new pulley takes a bolt. I will let you know if I have any success. Great video by the way. One of the best I have seen.
Will it pass a emission test?
I don't know what the test you have. Where I live yes.