I have a neighbor that picked up a 93 Pan Can cart and all the wires have been removed, Its a 36 Volt 4 solenoid keyed selection fwd & Rev. I have been watching you posts and thought that you could point me in the direction of some kind of wire diagram or manuals or have knowledge of said cart. Thanks keep up with the posts
Where do you recommend buying a new ITS sensor? I just diagnosed my has failed, has 15v on it with key on, barely changes with throttle pressed. I appreciate this video, helped me figure this out really quickly
Hello, do you work on other carts? Yamaha, Club Car etc. I have a Yamaha G22e that is no click no start. Has new solenoid and no click. How does the process work. Battery, to key switch to ITS to solenoid or something else. I appreciate your time. Thx.
Yamahas use a 3 wire potentiometer for their throttle sensor not an ITS. The throttle sensor is not connected to the solenoid nor does it operate the solenoid. The accelerator pedal switch is what operates the solenoid. I. The case of the G22e after looking at the diagram, the pedal switch send a signal to the speed controller and the controller then turns on the solenoid. They controller is smart, and can sense if there are any faults, and it will not turn on the solenoid if there are faults. Typically when a controller controls a solenoid, there is constant power on one of the small poles of the cell annoyed, and the controller will complete the ground to turn on the solenoid . I would check to make sure the pedal switch is working properly, and that the controller is sending a signal to the solenoid .
Is that a 2wire ITS? I have a 3 wire ITS on a Ruff n Tuff. Can you tell me what voltage gets applied and what should I read at the controller input? This is a nice short concise video btw. Well done.
Hello, unfortunately I’m unfamiliar with the testing procedure for the 3 wire ITS on a Ruff n Tuff. Typically they tend to be more like an EZGO system: My guess though would be to test one of the wires coming off it just like I’ve shown in the video. Clamp your black lead on main negative on the battery pack and probe one of the three wires. One of them should act similar to this in that it will start at a low voltage and go up. Just dont know which one that would be. If no three of them do that, I’d guess it’s bad. What controller is on your RNT?
It’s the original R+T controller which looks similar to a Curtis but can’t be sure. It’s dead so the existing throttle sensor does not read any voltage. Fast forward many hours into the project. We fitted an Alltrax SR48600. When programmed for an ITS it did not work. I finally figured out that the 3 wire R&T throttle sensor, though it looks like an ITS, its connection is actually a voltage source device. The terminal closest to the micro switch is +48V, middle is the 0-5v signal to the controller, and the far side is battery is negative. I programmed the Alltrax for 0-5v throttle and used the adaptive throttle setting. It learned the throttle position and after saving the setting, it worked. We still had some throttle ramp settings to adjust but this was the breakthrough for us- it looks like an ITS but the output is 0-5V! The Alltrax manual shows various wiring schematics for the controller. For Ruff n Tuff, use the schematic for the Taylor and Dunn cart. This is what works and matches the R&T with series wound motor.
Hey man great videos, appreciate it! I’ve got a 95 ezgo I am struggling with. Selenoid won’t engage and keep blowing fuse at the ignition interlock by the charger port. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the video. I have a 98 ego txt that is kicking my butt. I believe I have a bad controller but would like your input. I have checked batteries replace the solenoid and ITS. All voltage reads good except I have no voltage reading on either side of the ITS. My understanding is that it should have 14 volts on the black and then the .5-1.7 on the white as you just stated. Cart worked fine and got under a load and quit working. Do you think it’s the controller?
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I have a neighbor that picked up a 93 Pan Can cart and all the wires have been removed, Its a 36 Volt 4 solenoid keyed selection fwd & Rev. I have been watching you posts and thought that you could point me in the direction of some kind of wire diagram or manuals or have knowledge of said cart. Thanks keep up with the posts
Never heard of a Pan Can cart before. Maybe you could emails me some pics? rodeo.horizon_0c@icloud.com
Where do you recommend buying a new ITS sensor? I just diagnosed my has failed, has 15v on it with key on, barely changes with throttle pressed. I appreciate this video, helped me figure this out really quickly
Hello, do you work on other carts? Yamaha, Club Car etc. I have a Yamaha G22e that is no click no start. Has new solenoid and no click. How does the process work. Battery, to key switch to ITS to solenoid or something else. I appreciate your time. Thx.
Yamahas use a 3 wire potentiometer for their throttle sensor not an ITS. The throttle sensor is not connected to the solenoid nor does it operate the solenoid. The accelerator pedal switch is what operates the solenoid. I. The case of the G22e after looking at the diagram, the pedal switch send a signal to the speed controller and the controller then turns on the solenoid. They controller is smart, and can sense if there are any faults, and it will not turn on the solenoid if there are faults. Typically when a controller controls a solenoid, there is constant power on one of the small poles of the cell annoyed, and the controller will complete the ground to turn on the solenoid . I would check to make sure the pedal switch is working properly, and that the controller is sending a signal to the solenoid .
keep it up. i will watch
I get 1.7 still no motor
Is that a 2wire ITS? I have a 3 wire ITS on a Ruff n Tuff. Can you tell me what voltage gets applied and what should I read at the controller input? This is a nice short concise video btw. Well done.
Hello, unfortunately I’m unfamiliar with the testing procedure for the 3 wire ITS on a Ruff n Tuff. Typically they tend to be more like an EZGO system: My guess though would be to test one of the wires coming off it just like I’ve shown in the video. Clamp your black lead on main negative on the battery pack and probe one of the three wires. One of them should act similar to this in that it will start at a low voltage and go up. Just dont know which one that would be. If no three of them do that, I’d guess it’s bad.
What controller is on your RNT?
It’s the original R+T controller which looks similar to a Curtis but can’t be sure. It’s dead so the existing throttle sensor does not read any voltage. Fast forward many hours into the project. We fitted an Alltrax SR48600. When programmed for an ITS it did not work. I finally figured out that the 3 wire R&T throttle sensor, though it looks like an ITS, its connection is actually a voltage source device. The terminal closest to the micro switch is +48V, middle is the 0-5v signal to the controller, and the far side is battery is negative. I programmed the Alltrax for 0-5v throttle and used the adaptive throttle setting. It learned the throttle position and after saving the setting, it worked. We still had some throttle ramp settings to adjust but this was the breakthrough for us- it looks like an ITS but the output is 0-5V!
The Alltrax manual shows various wiring schematics for the controller. For Ruff n Tuff, use the schematic for the Taylor and Dunn cart. This is what works and matches the R&T with series wound motor.
Hey man great videos, appreciate it! I’ve got a 95 ezgo I am struggling with. Selenoid won’t engage and keep blowing fuse at the ignition interlock by the charger port. Any suggestions?
That’s the reed switch, not a fuse. When you say it doesn’t engage do you mean it doesn’t click? Or it does click but doesn’t pass current?
Thanks for the video. I have a 98 ego txt that is kicking my butt. I believe I have a bad controller but would like your input. I have checked batteries replace the solenoid and ITS. All voltage reads good except I have no voltage reading on either side of the ITS. My understanding is that it should have 14 volts on the black and then the .5-1.7 on the white as you just stated. Cart worked fine and got under a load and quit working. Do you think it’s the controller?
Mine says 14 volt. I replace the micro switch, ITS and solenoid
Where can I get the manual? Thanks
Good job
I’ll try it - thx