- Видео 10
- Просмотров 79 530
The Cart Doctor
Добавлен 23 авг 2023
We fix all things golf cart and show you how to do it. Short sweet and to the point. No fluff.
EZGO RXV Encoder Bearing Replacement How-To
In this episode a cover the symptoms and diagnostics of a bad encoder bearing in an EZGO RX,V golf cart. Then I’ll show you how to replace it.
Просмотров: 53
Видео
EZGO Series Push Button F&R Installation and Upgrade
Просмотров 7511 дней назад
Want to know how to convert your series golf cart to a push button style forward and reverse? Tired of burning up your forward and reverse board assembly? In this video I will walk you through step-by-step on how to install and wire up the Curtis DC88P heavy duty forward and reverse contactor on your EZGO series golf cart.  0:00 Intro 1:30 Repair Issue 2:00 Disassembly 4:00 Switch Wiring Harne...
Battery Charger Low Power Output | Test The Capacitor
Просмотров 69Месяц назад
If you charger is outputting very little power and you know you batteries are low, chances are you have a bad capacitor in your charger. Here’s how to test it and replace it.
EZGO TXT Series Solenoid Test | Is My Solenoid Really Bad?
Просмотров 545Месяц назад
I’m calling this episode the solenoid episode. Too many times solenoids get replaced for no reason and only to find out it doesn’t fix the problem. In the video we troubleshoot a TXT series cart that doesn’t run. Follow along to see what the problem is and learn some troubleshooting steps to test on your series cart that doesn’t run.
Cart won’t run? Try this. | EZGO ITS Test
Просмотров 16 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Today we look at a simple ITS (Throttle Sensor) test for Ezgo TXT carts.
How to Test a Series Electric Golf Cart Motor and Common Motor Failures
Просмотров 16 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Follow along as we discuss the steps to properly test a series motor suspect of having issues and discuss some common failures inside these motors.
Battery Load Test - Deceptive Battery Voltage
Просмотров 4738 месяцев назад
Nominal battery voltage can some times be deceptive. Just because you read good voltage at rest doesn’t mean that will be the case under load. Follow along with me as I test each batter under load to determine the bad one.
Ruff N Tuff Controller Replacement | Alltrax Upgrade
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.10 месяцев назад
Today in the shop I show you have to upgrade and replace the stock speed controller on a Ruff n Tuff to an upgraded 500amp Alltrax.
How to Test Golf Cart Battery Charger - No DC Voltage Output
Просмотров 8 тыс.Год назад
In this video I cover the testing process for most any older style golf cart chargers with transformers. While the component might vary slightly the process is pretty much the same. Our test subject is a Total Charge III that was brought into the shop and is supposedly not putting out DC Voltage.
EZGO Series Speed Controller Test - Cart Won’t Run
Просмотров 37 тыс.Год назад
In this video I cover the basics of diagnosing a bad series speed controller on an EZGo TXT. We cover controller output testing, solenoid testing, pedal switch testing, and ITS testing. 00:11 Controller Output Test 00:40 Solenoid Test 01:44 Pedal Switch Test 02:09 ITS Testing
Great explanation!
Where to get the F&R contactor? Really professional presentation!!
Hello! You should be able to find them with most any of the online golf cart part companies. Just search for the Albright Reversing Contractor.
I agree with others, while the jumpers at the motor are obvious, it is not clear how they are connected at the power source. I assume that the "negative" end of the lead to the positive armature post is connected to the positive terminal of the power source (and that the "positive end of the lead from the negative coil post is connected to the negative terminal of the power source). Helpful video but could be clearer. Including a simple diagram would help clear up confusion.
Thanks for your feedback. Sorry this wasn’t clear for you. I usually do include diagrams in my videos but didn’t feel it was needed since everything was visible. Unfortunately RUclips doesn’t allow me to change the video once it’s uploaded. Reading your comment I think you are confusing yourself. There is no “negative” or “positive” end of any cable. you apply negative voltage to A2 meaning negative from your source of power and positive voltage to S1 meaning positive from your source of power. Then you place a jumper between A2 and S2. The source of power could be a few different options. You could use a 12v automotive battery or you could use 2 6v golfcart batteries wired in series. Hopefully this clears things up for you. Thanks for watching.
Any pointers where to get a new one
A new changer? Or Capacitor?
Capacitor
My red wire on the gas pedal shows power 24/7. Green shows dead. Any thoughts?
That’s right. Red should have constant power and green shouldn’t. When you press the pedal to activate the microswitch, green should then have power. If you are testing at the pedal switch and don’t get power on green when pressing the pedal you have a bad micro switch. If you are testing at the 4 pin molex then it could either be a bad connection or wire or a bad switch. Hope this helps.
Great video, so many people assume it’s the solenoid. Very informative!
Normally, the capacitor is removed from the circuit prior to testing for accuracy.
Yep, that’s correct. That’s what I did. It was unplugged before testing. I may have forgotten to mention that but around the 3:29 mark you can see the wire unplugged.
Yes sir, thanks for sharing.
How do you test to see if the transformer is bad. I have an old 48 volt charger that I want to repurpose the transformer to something else if it is good
You can test the transformer by bypassing the timer board forcing it to turn on. Then on the output side of the transformer you should be getting 50-60v AC out on the 2 output legs. You must be very careful doing this because you are working with Live AC voltage at that point.
Have 2009 EZgo and the white wire connected to ats have power all the time (1.9) (2.0)don’t need to press the speed pedal any idea ?? Control box is the problem ????
Where can I get the manual? Thanks
Mine says 14 volt. I replace the micro switch, ITS and solenoid
Is there a number I can call u
Where do you recommend buying a new ITS sensor? I just diagnosed my has failed, has 15v on it with key on, barely changes with throttle pressed. I appreciate this video, helped me figure this out really quickly
My solenoid is staying engaged as soon as I turn run tow switch on. There is no key on this cart. Motor sounds like it's trying to turn but not getting enough power to move.
Thanks for the video. I have a 98 ego txt that is kicking my butt. I believe I have a bad controller but would like your input. I have checked batteries replace the solenoid and ITS. All voltage reads good except I have no voltage reading on either side of the ITS. My understanding is that it should have 14 volts on the black and then the .5-1.7 on the white as you just stated. Cart worked fine and got under a load and quit working. Do you think it’s the controller?
Hi so what if I am getting power on the m negative of the controller with key off and key on All other test you showed tested good but still won’t run Thanks
keep it up. i will watch
You know the way you taste in the motor doesn't tell you if it's burned and he still don't show you continuity across the post you have to check what is called multidirectional testing
Electricity is not my friend. What are you connecting the other ends of the jumper cables to? Can I just use a 12 volt car battery? Even though it's a 48v motor? Thank you in advance.
i have the same question. have you figured that out yet?
Why would i get 38 volts on the whole system,its like the solenoids stuck open. I've tried two solenoids. Ez go Marathon Electric.
I have a neighbor that picked up a 93 Pan Can cart and all the wires have been removed, Its a 36 Volt 4 solenoid keyed selection fwd & Rev. I have been watching you posts and thought that you could point me in the direction of some kind of wire diagram or manuals or have knowledge of said cart. Thanks keep up with the posts
Never heard of a Pan Can cart before. Maybe you could emails me some pics? rodeo.horizon_0c@icloud.com
I’ll try it - thx
Appreciate your wisdom, Blessings
Hey man great videos, appreciate it! I’ve got a 95 ezgo I am struggling with. Selenoid won’t engage and keep blowing fuse at the ignition interlock by the charger port. Any suggestions?
That’s the reed switch, not a fuse. When you say it doesn’t engage do you mean it doesn’t click? Or it does click but doesn’t pass current?
I have a 2005 ezgo freedom it was running fine now it runs half speed. I tested everything you said to test everything is getting power,batteries are full. I’m so confused. I don’t know what to test, all wires are good. Please help!!! Krystal from Florida
At 5 min in the video you show a charger tester that you built. Do you have the plans for that I would love to build one. We get many charges and i do not have batteries to hook the charger up to. So they will not start. I would love to test the little chargers for the personal mobility carts too. Thank you.
I’ve got a crude wiring diagram I drew up of the tester from when I built it but don’t have anything else. It’s just essentially a few DPDT relays, some electrical buss bars and a volt/amp meter with some switches that I can flip between 36 & 48 v. Then I have a few different charge ports wired up to the various voltages.
Great video, but what do you check if it has a new controller and solenoid, but the cart will only move in reverse?
Same question
@@FuNPeopLe3622 It actually turned out to be the speed controller. Don't totally understand why this had an effect, but the cart was fine after the speed controller was replaced.
Was it a Navitas speed controller? Mine was running fine, I’ve checked all connections, I’ve checked DC voltage and I get no forward, only reverse works
@@FuNPeopLe3622 Not the actual controller, you want to check the speed controller. Mine attaches to the end of the motor.
Thanks. 👍
Thank you a lot sir
Good job
I'm gonna ask this now but probably won't receive a reply in time. I am working on campgrounds 1997 EZGO TXT with DCS 36vdc. It was brought to me non-running. Went through entire electric system, found very corroded battery terminals and motor terminals. Found a broken yellow wire on ignition switch side which I repaired and whammo, cart runs again except I've discovered a new problem. With direction switch in forward, just barely touching throttle pedal goes to full throttle, spins tires and nearly pulls a wheelie. Not so bad in reverse although still a quick take-off. This is the same cart as like one in this video, same solenoid, box cover, and tow switch. I will perform ITS sensor test tomorrow to check voltages but wondering if you have experienced this issue with other similar EZGO DCS carts? There was supposed to be a switch with an orange wire which I believe is speed sensor but I cannot find where it terminates. I see the orange wire at the controller connector, it runs into the harness but don't know where it goes from there. I am told if the orange wire becomes unplugged or broken, cart goes to full power and that is what I'm trying to figure out.
Hello, do you work on other carts? Yamaha, Club Car etc. I have a Yamaha G22e that is no click no start. Has new solenoid and no click. How does the process work. Battery, to key switch to ITS to solenoid or something else. I appreciate your time. Thx.
Yamahas use a 3 wire potentiometer for their throttle sensor not an ITS. The throttle sensor is not connected to the solenoid nor does it operate the solenoid. The accelerator pedal switch is what operates the solenoid. I. The case of the G22e after looking at the diagram, the pedal switch send a signal to the speed controller and the controller then turns on the solenoid. They controller is smart, and can sense if there are any faults, and it will not turn on the solenoid if there are faults. Typically when a controller controls a solenoid, there is constant power on one of the small poles of the cell annoyed, and the controller will complete the ground to turn on the solenoid . I would check to make sure the pedal switch is working properly, and that the controller is sending a signal to the solenoid .
I have a 36V EZGO cart with this same controller and motor. My cart just recently stopped going full speed. Checked the motor, it's ok, did voltage drop test across the FNR switch and that is good, checked the Accelerator potentiometer, and that is good. Cart accelerates fine, just will not reach top speed anymore. Brand new batteries were also installed last week. Former top speed was 18-20mph, it will only go 12mph now. Could this be a controller issue or a brush issue in the motor?
I get 1.7 still no motor
EXCELLENT TO THE POINT ,CLEAR & CONCISE!!! I'VE WATCHED 5 OR 6 VIDEOS THAT WERE VERY LONG ,BAD FILMING & NOT PROFFESSIONAL . I'M NOW SUBSCRIBED TO ONLY YOUR CHANNEL!
Thanks! That’s what I try to do with this channel. There’s too many RUclips videos where half of the 10 minute tutorial is the person playing with their dog. Haha.
Will this controller test still work if I don’t have the motor hooked up? If so my ez go is doing the same thing. No power coming out of far right plug
Yep!
Looks like i may have a diffrent set up? Than you have here. Maybe early 2000s txt
So i have a 2000 model ezgo and batters are fully charged but cart will just roll really slow but if you keep going it will start to act normal any ideas on what could be causing this ? Thanks !
Thank you!!! Very helpful!!!
Is that a 2wire ITS? I have a 3 wire ITS on a Ruff n Tuff. Can you tell me what voltage gets applied and what should I read at the controller input? This is a nice short concise video btw. Well done.
Hello, unfortunately I’m unfamiliar with the testing procedure for the 3 wire ITS on a Ruff n Tuff. Typically they tend to be more like an EZGO system: My guess though would be to test one of the wires coming off it just like I’ve shown in the video. Clamp your black lead on main negative on the battery pack and probe one of the three wires. One of them should act similar to this in that it will start at a low voltage and go up. Just dont know which one that would be. If no three of them do that, I’d guess it’s bad. What controller is on your RNT?
It’s the original R+T controller which looks similar to a Curtis but can’t be sure. It’s dead so the existing throttle sensor does not read any voltage. Fast forward many hours into the project. We fitted an Alltrax SR48600. When programmed for an ITS it did not work. I finally figured out that the 3 wire R&T throttle sensor, though it looks like an ITS, its connection is actually a voltage source device. The terminal closest to the micro switch is +48V, middle is the 0-5v signal to the controller, and the far side is battery is negative. I programmed the Alltrax for 0-5v throttle and used the adaptive throttle setting. It learned the throttle position and after saving the setting, it worked. We still had some throttle ramp settings to adjust but this was the breakthrough for us- it looks like an ITS but the output is 0-5V! The Alltrax manual shows various wiring schematics for the controller. For Ruff n Tuff, use the schematic for the Taylor and Dunn cart. This is what works and matches the R&T with series wound motor.
Thank you for the video wondering what make test light you are using .
Honestly I wish I knew myself: I’d go buy a few more. It’s hard to find a Decent ones now a days at the store. I’ve had this test light for 15+ years. I remember getting it out of a bargain bin at Northern Tool. It’s come along ways since I first bought it though. I’ve added the thicker 8 gauge wire, decorative wire sleeve , and heavy duty clamp. The only thing that’s original is the handle and probe pretty much.
Nice video
Did this RnT have the throttle micro switch connected to the ITS? (Mine is connected on pink wire and appears to provide +V to the ITS) What did you do with the micro switch wiring?
No, the micro switch wiring should be separate from the ITS. You could have 4 wires going to the pedal box. 2 for the switch and 2 for the ITS. One wire going to the switch is a feeder with + voltage, the other wire goes back to the red plug on the controller.
I did the first test and the light went dim to bright. Then tested solenoid it worked. The hot side of the controler went from dim to bright. The orange wire went on when the pedal was pushed. But still no go. Also checked all 4 terminals on the motor. When in forward all 4 went dim to bright and in reverse too. Could it be brushes or bad motor?
Please advise what else I can check.
Thanks so much, great video my sweet young wifes 97 txt quit moving but the solenoid clicks these test are just what i needed.
Solenoid still have energy at both terminals even before pressibg pedal and energizing the coil? How come? Can anybody explain this please
Short answer: there’s a resistor or diode between the two poles. This is called a pre charge resistor. It’s there’s to slowly and gently charge up the capacitors in the controller before main solenoid activation. Quick inrushes of current can damage them and this is a way to mitigate damage.
No its clear here. Thank you sir
My forward/reverse switch and my controller got hot, I changed the forward/reverse switch and it seems to run better however the cart starts to slow down very quickly even though I have a full charge on the battery’s and the controller gets warm, could this be a bd controller or is my motor going bad?
Sound like there’s excessive resistance somewhere. Most likely a bad connection. Check all your nuts on the FNR you installed to make sure they are tight as well as all the connections on the batteries, motor and controller. Unfortunately, I’ve installed a few brand new FNR assemblies and they don’t make good contact right out of the box. The Chinese parts just don’t have good quality control. If those copper lugs aren’t making good contact in that assembly is can cause excessive resistance and over heating. If all your connections are tight I could disassemble that FNR and make sure those mating surfaces are nice and flat and parallel to each other. If that’s checks out I’d start looking at issues in the motor such as a stuck or burned motor brush. Best of luck. Sorry for the late response
Ezgo TXT 2009 all OEM. 6 Crown 6V 3yr old batteries. I tested each battery individually and they are all showing 6v and > 5v under load. My issue is the cart only runs 30min then quickly looses charge and is very slow. I am guessing this is a controller or a solenoid issue. I purchased a new solenoid but have not installed it yet. Should I get a new controller and change them both out?
I tend to think your issue is a battery issue. Not a controller issue. Unfortunately Crown batteries are not the best. I typically don’t see cars coming in with them more then a few years old and them still being strong. What I recommend is a discharge test. The way we do that is charge the batteries up and we hook them to a discharge machine. It will run the batteries under load simulating the cart running until they are too week to continue to run the cart. A Brad new seat of batteries should run 100-120 minutes. A good strong used set will run 75+ minutes. After the tester turns off, I restart the tester and check battery voltage under load after discharge. They should all be fairly consistent around 5.4-5.6 volts. Anything less then that and I recommend replacement. Reach out to your local shop and see if they have the equipment to run this discharge test before you spend money replacing a co troller.
Will your test light blow with 36 volts? My cart will sometimes not move even though the solenoid clicks, and power goes through it. Then the next day it works like nothing is wrong. Is this sort of gremlin most likely something wrong inside the controller? Has this intermittent problem ever happened to you? My cart is missing the diode and/or blead resistor across the relay.
Sorry for the late response. My test light will work on 12v-72v. I’ve had it for 10+ years and just replaced the bull for the first time this summer. I have intermittent run issues happen frequently. You just have to isolate potential problems and see if they are reoccurring. Often times there are several factors that play into an intermittent issue. That’s the best way I’ve found to find intermittent issues.
ezgo 36 volt txt 2009 model