- Видео 10
- Просмотров 95 050
The Cart Doctor
Добавлен 23 авг 2023
We fix all things golf cart and show you how to do it. Short sweet and to the point. No fluff.
EZGO RXV Encoder Bearing Replacement How-To
In this episode a cover the symptoms and diagnostics of a bad encoder bearing in an EZGO RX,V golf cart. Then I’ll show you how to replace it.
Просмотров: 159
Видео
EZGO Series Push Button F&R Installation and Upgrade
Просмотров 150Месяц назад
Want to know how to convert your series golf cart to a push button style forward and reverse? Tired of burning up your forward and reverse board assembly? In this video I will walk you through step-by-step on how to install and wire up the Curtis DC88P heavy duty forward and reverse contactor on your EZGO series golf cart.  0:00 Intro 1:30 Repair Issue 2:00 Disassembly 4:00 Switch Wiring Harne...
Battery Charger Low Power Output | Test The Capacitor
Просмотров 1272 месяца назад
If you charger is outputting very little power and you know you batteries are low, chances are you have a bad capacitor in your charger. Here’s how to test it and replace it.
EZGO TXT Series Solenoid Test | Is My Solenoid Really Bad?
Просмотров 3,3 тыс.2 месяца назад
I’m calling this episode the solenoid episode. Too many times solenoids get replaced for no reason and only to find out it doesn’t fix the problem. In the video we troubleshoot a TXT series cart that doesn’t run. Follow along to see what the problem is and learn some troubleshooting steps to test on your series cart that doesn’t run.
Cart won’t run? Try this. | EZGO ITS Test
Просмотров 19 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Today we look at a simple ITS (Throttle Sensor) test for Ezgo TXT carts.
How to Test a Series Electric Golf Cart Motor and Common Motor Failures
Просмотров 19 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Follow along as we discuss the steps to properly test a series motor suspect of having issues and discuss some common failures inside these motors.
Battery Load Test - Deceptive Battery Voltage
Просмотров 4939 месяцев назад
Nominal battery voltage can some times be deceptive. Just because you read good voltage at rest doesn’t mean that will be the case under load. Follow along with me as I test each batter under load to determine the bad one.
Ruff N Tuff Controller Replacement | Alltrax Upgrade
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Today in the shop I show you have to upgrade and replace the stock speed controller on a Ruff n Tuff to an upgraded 500amp Alltrax.
How to Test Golf Cart Battery Charger - No DC Voltage Output
Просмотров 9 тыс.Год назад
In this video I cover the testing process for most any older style golf cart chargers with transformers. While the component might vary slightly the process is pretty much the same. Our test subject is a Total Charge III that was brought into the shop and is supposedly not putting out DC Voltage.
EZGO Series Speed Controller Test - Cart Won’t Run
Просмотров 42 тыс.Год назад
In this video I cover the basics of diagnosing a bad series speed controller on an EZGo TXT. We cover controller output testing, solenoid testing, pedal switch testing, and ITS testing. 00:11 Controller Output Test 00:40 Solenoid Test 01:44 Pedal Switch Test 02:09 ITS Testing
How do u test the encoder bearing?
All my wires on controller show voltage when negative cable is disconnected from battery and then I lose all voltage when I connect it. The Solenoid and controller have been replaced… need some help here
When you buy a new solenoid, how do you know what side of the solenoid is the positive and negative? IThe solenoid has no markings, Thanks in advance
OK my light gets dimmer when I'm checking to see if power is going through the solenoid but when I step on the throttle the light turns off
I checked my diodes and they teated good. With the charger on and the meter between the 2 diodes i measured 61vac. Its a 36 volt charger. From the diode to the volt meter ingot 27vdc. Not sure how to check under a load
If I have a cart that runs slow, will this tell me what’s wrong?
Awesome video. Question. How would I bypass the charging read switch? Is it as simple as connecting positive off battery terminal? That’s what I gather from the diagram. Thanks
On a 48v motor can putting 48v to the armatures cause miotor damage? I had a customer call saying he tried to test the motor putting positive and negative to the armature posts and it sparked like crazy
Does this apply to a ‘92 36 volt Club Car motor also? I’m seeing other videos saying to connect S1 to A2, the positive to S2 and negative to A1 I’m just confirming which way is correct for my motor. Can you advise? Thanks
As long as it’s a series motor you can use this method.
This video was very well explained. Thank you.
What if pressing the pedal makes the light get dimmer? Anybody experienced this before?
You either have the test light lead on the wrong post or something is wrong
@@TheCart_Doctor it’s the right post. It my solenoid never makes a sound.
Thanks so much. None of the diagrams I have had the low power wire instructions. I have a SW182 contactor and would greatly appreciate a diagram for that unit, so I don't destroy my controller.
Ezgo? What year?
@@TheCart_Doctor Sory should have mentioned it. EZGO TXT. Missing the Serial number tag but its older and identical components to the unit you used in your video. It does NOT have a run tow switch.
Email me. I can’t chRe photos over RUclips comments. Thecartdoctor77@gmail.com
Great explanation!
Where to get the F&R contactor? Really professional presentation!!
Hello! You should be able to find them with most any of the online golf cart part companies. Just search for the Albright Reversing Contractor.
I agree with others, while the jumpers at the motor are obvious, it is not clear how they are connected at the power source. I assume that the "negative" end of the lead to the positive armature post is connected to the positive terminal of the power source (and that the "positive end of the lead from the negative coil post is connected to the negative terminal of the power source). Helpful video but could be clearer. Including a simple diagram would help clear up confusion.
Thanks for your feedback. Sorry this wasn’t clear for you. I usually do include diagrams in my videos but didn’t feel it was needed since everything was visible. Unfortunately RUclips doesn’t allow me to change the video once it’s uploaded. Reading your comment I think you are confusing yourself. There is no “negative” or “positive” end of any cable. you apply negative voltage to A2 meaning negative from your source of power and positive voltage to S1 meaning positive from your source of power. Then you place a jumper between A2 and S2. The source of power could be a few different options. You could use a 12v automotive battery or you could use 2 6v golfcart batteries wired in series. Hopefully this clears things up for you. Thanks for watching.
Any pointers where to get a new one
A new changer? Or Capacitor?
Capacitor
The quickest place is probably Amazon. Just search for the correct size you need.
My red wire on the gas pedal shows power 24/7. Green shows dead. Any thoughts?
That’s right. Red should have constant power and green shouldn’t. When you press the pedal to activate the microswitch, green should then have power. If you are testing at the pedal switch and don’t get power on green when pressing the pedal you have a bad micro switch. If you are testing at the 4 pin molex then it could either be a bad connection or wire or a bad switch. Hope this helps.
Great video, so many people assume it’s the solenoid. Very informative!
Normally, the capacitor is removed from the circuit prior to testing for accuracy.
Yep, that’s correct. That’s what I did. It was unplugged before testing. I may have forgotten to mention that but around the 3:29 mark you can see the wire unplugged.
Yes sir, thanks for sharing.
How do you test to see if the transformer is bad. I have an old 48 volt charger that I want to repurpose the transformer to something else if it is good
You can test the transformer by bypassing the timer board forcing it to turn on. Then on the output side of the transformer you should be getting 50-60v AC out on the 2 output legs. You must be very careful doing this because you are working with Live AC voltage at that point.
Have 2009 EZgo and the white wire connected to ats have power all the time (1.9) (2.0)don’t need to press the speed pedal any idea ?? Control box is the problem ????
Where can I get the manual? Thanks
Mine says 14 volt. I replace the micro switch, ITS and solenoid
Is there a number I can call u
Where do you recommend buying a new ITS sensor? I just diagnosed my has failed, has 15v on it with key on, barely changes with throttle pressed. I appreciate this video, helped me figure this out really quickly
My solenoid is staying engaged as soon as I turn run tow switch on. There is no key on this cart. Motor sounds like it's trying to turn but not getting enough power to move.
Thanks for the video. I have a 98 ego txt that is kicking my butt. I believe I have a bad controller but would like your input. I have checked batteries replace the solenoid and ITS. All voltage reads good except I have no voltage reading on either side of the ITS. My understanding is that it should have 14 volts on the black and then the .5-1.7 on the white as you just stated. Cart worked fine and got under a load and quit working. Do you think it’s the controller?
Hi so what if I am getting power on the m negative of the controller with key off and key on All other test you showed tested good but still won’t run Thanks
keep it up. i will watch
You know the way you taste in the motor doesn't tell you if it's burned and he still don't show you continuity across the post you have to check what is called multidirectional testing
Electricity is not my friend. What are you connecting the other ends of the jumper cables to? Can I just use a 12 volt car battery? Even though it's a 48v motor? Thank you in advance.
i have the same question. have you figured that out yet?
Short answer: yes you can hook up a 12v car battery. Long answer: Yes, whether you have a resistor style cart or a controller style cart, at some point when initial driving there is 12v on the motor anyways. Not all 48v is applied at once to the motor. The voltage is directly associated with the throttle pedal input amount.
Why would i get 38 volts on the whole system,its like the solenoids stuck open. I've tried two solenoids. Ez go Marathon Electric.
I have a neighbor that picked up a 93 Pan Can cart and all the wires have been removed, Its a 36 Volt 4 solenoid keyed selection fwd & Rev. I have been watching you posts and thought that you could point me in the direction of some kind of wire diagram or manuals or have knowledge of said cart. Thanks keep up with the posts
Never heard of a Pan Can cart before. Maybe you could emails me some pics? rodeo.horizon_0c@icloud.com
I’ll try it - thx
Appreciate your wisdom, Blessings
Hey man great videos, appreciate it! I’ve got a 95 ezgo I am struggling with. Selenoid won’t engage and keep blowing fuse at the ignition interlock by the charger port. Any suggestions?
That’s the reed switch, not a fuse. When you say it doesn’t engage do you mean it doesn’t click? Or it does click but doesn’t pass current?
I have a 2005 ezgo freedom it was running fine now it runs half speed. I tested everything you said to test everything is getting power,batteries are full. I’m so confused. I don’t know what to test, all wires are good. Please help!!! Krystal from Florida
At 5 min in the video you show a charger tester that you built. Do you have the plans for that I would love to build one. We get many charges and i do not have batteries to hook the charger up to. So they will not start. I would love to test the little chargers for the personal mobility carts too. Thank you.
I’ve got a crude wiring diagram I drew up of the tester from when I built it but don’t have anything else. It’s just essentially a few DPDT relays, some electrical buss bars and a volt/amp meter with some switches that I can flip between 36 & 48 v. Then I have a few different charge ports wired up to the various voltages.
Great video, but what do you check if it has a new controller and solenoid, but the cart will only move in reverse?
Same question
@@FuNPeopLe3622 It actually turned out to be the speed controller. Don't totally understand why this had an effect, but the cart was fine after the speed controller was replaced.
Was it a Navitas speed controller? Mine was running fine, I’ve checked all connections, I’ve checked DC voltage and I get no forward, only reverse works
@@FuNPeopLe3622 Not the actual controller, you want to check the speed controller. Mine attaches to the end of the motor.
Thanks. 👍
Thank you a lot sir
Good job
I'm gonna ask this now but probably won't receive a reply in time. I am working on campgrounds 1997 EZGO TXT with DCS 36vdc. It was brought to me non-running. Went through entire electric system, found very corroded battery terminals and motor terminals. Found a broken yellow wire on ignition switch side which I repaired and whammo, cart runs again except I've discovered a new problem. With direction switch in forward, just barely touching throttle pedal goes to full throttle, spins tires and nearly pulls a wheelie. Not so bad in reverse although still a quick take-off. This is the same cart as like one in this video, same solenoid, box cover, and tow switch. I will perform ITS sensor test tomorrow to check voltages but wondering if you have experienced this issue with other similar EZGO DCS carts? There was supposed to be a switch with an orange wire which I believe is speed sensor but I cannot find where it terminates. I see the orange wire at the controller connector, it runs into the harness but don't know where it goes from there. I am told if the orange wire becomes unplugged or broken, cart goes to full power and that is what I'm trying to figure out.
Hello, do you work on other carts? Yamaha, Club Car etc. I have a Yamaha G22e that is no click no start. Has new solenoid and no click. How does the process work. Battery, to key switch to ITS to solenoid or something else. I appreciate your time. Thx.
Yamahas use a 3 wire potentiometer for their throttle sensor not an ITS. The throttle sensor is not connected to the solenoid nor does it operate the solenoid. The accelerator pedal switch is what operates the solenoid. I. The case of the G22e after looking at the diagram, the pedal switch send a signal to the speed controller and the controller then turns on the solenoid. They controller is smart, and can sense if there are any faults, and it will not turn on the solenoid if there are faults. Typically when a controller controls a solenoid, there is constant power on one of the small poles of the cell annoyed, and the controller will complete the ground to turn on the solenoid . I would check to make sure the pedal switch is working properly, and that the controller is sending a signal to the solenoid .
I have a 36V EZGO cart with this same controller and motor. My cart just recently stopped going full speed. Checked the motor, it's ok, did voltage drop test across the FNR switch and that is good, checked the Accelerator potentiometer, and that is good. Cart accelerates fine, just will not reach top speed anymore. Brand new batteries were also installed last week. Former top speed was 18-20mph, it will only go 12mph now. Could this be a controller issue or a brush issue in the motor?
My old Club Car uses a spinning magnet speed sensor bolted to the end of the motor shaft. The magnet cracked, doubling the N and S poles, and the cart would only go half the speed.
I get 1.7 still no motor
EXCELLENT TO THE POINT ,CLEAR & CONCISE!!! I'VE WATCHED 5 OR 6 VIDEOS THAT WERE VERY LONG ,BAD FILMING & NOT PROFFESSIONAL . I'M NOW SUBSCRIBED TO ONLY YOUR CHANNEL!
Thanks! That’s what I try to do with this channel. There’s too many RUclips videos where half of the 10 minute tutorial is the person playing with their dog. Haha.
Will this controller test still work if I don’t have the motor hooked up? If so my ez go is doing the same thing. No power coming out of far right plug
Yep!
Looks like i may have a diffrent set up? Than you have here. Maybe early 2000s txt
So i have a 2000 model ezgo and batters are fully charged but cart will just roll really slow but if you keep going it will start to act normal any ideas on what could be causing this ? Thanks !