- Видео 10
- Просмотров 113 275
The Cart Doctor
Добавлен 23 авг 2023
We fix all things golf cart and show you how to do it. Short sweet and to the point. No fluff.
EZGO RXV Encoder Bearing Replacement How-To
In this episode a cover the symptoms and diagnostics of a bad encoder bearing in an EZGO RX,V golf cart. Then I’ll show you how to replace it.
Просмотров: 356
Видео
EZGO Series Push Button F&R Installation and Upgrade
Просмотров 3573 месяца назад
Want to know how to convert your series golf cart to a push button style forward and reverse? Tired of burning up your forward and reverse board assembly? In this video I will walk you through step-by-step on how to install and wire up the Curtis DC88P heavy duty forward and reverse contactor on your EZGO series golf cart.  0:00 Intro 1:30 Repair Issue 2:00 Disassembly 4:00 Switch Wiring Harne...
Battery Charger Low Power Output | Test The Capacitor
Просмотров 1944 месяца назад
If you charger is outputting very little power and you know you batteries are low, chances are you have a bad capacitor in your charger. Here’s how to test it and replace it.
EZGO TXT Series Solenoid Test | Is My Solenoid Really Bad?
Просмотров 7 тыс.4 месяца назад
I’m calling this episode the solenoid episode. Too many times solenoids get replaced for no reason and only to find out it doesn’t fix the problem. In the video we troubleshoot a TXT series cart that doesn’t run. Follow along to see what the problem is and learn some troubleshooting steps to test on your series cart that doesn’t run.
Cart won’t run? Try this. | EZGO ITS Test
Просмотров 22 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Today we look at a simple ITS (Throttle Sensor) test for Ezgo TXT carts.
How to Test a Series Electric Golf Cart Motor and Common Motor Failures
Просмотров 24 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Follow along as we discuss the steps to properly test a series motor suspect of having issues and discuss some common failures inside these motors.
Battery Load Test - Deceptive Battery Voltage
Просмотров 522Год назад
Nominal battery voltage can some times be deceptive. Just because you read good voltage at rest doesn’t mean that will be the case under load. Follow along with me as I test each batter under load to determine the bad one.
Ruff N Tuff Controller Replacement | Alltrax Upgrade
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.Год назад
Today in the shop I show you have to upgrade and replace the stock speed controller on a Ruff n Tuff to an upgraded 500amp Alltrax.
How to Test Golf Cart Battery Charger - No DC Voltage Output
Просмотров 10 тыс.Год назад
In this video I cover the testing process for most any older style golf cart chargers with transformers. While the component might vary slightly the process is pretty much the same. Our test subject is a Total Charge III that was brought into the shop and is supposedly not putting out DC Voltage.
EZGO Series Speed Controller Test - Cart Won’t Run
Просмотров 47 тыс.Год назад
In this video I cover the basics of diagnosing a bad series speed controller on an EZGo TXT. We cover controller output testing, solenoid testing, pedal switch testing, and ITS testing. 00:11 Controller Output Test 00:40 Solenoid Test 01:44 Pedal Switch Test 02:09 ITS Testing
Outstanding instructions! Now, that is how one does a video.
Sure enough! It WAS the Reed switch. I was banging out a stuck rivet and it must have damaged the switch. Thanks so much for the video!
Replaced solenoid and once pedal pressed it blew the little resistor
Is either the bearing in the motor end cap or in the gearbox a thrust bearing? If not, mounting vertically may not be wise.
I have power at m- but the cart doesn't run. Does that mean its the motor or the connection?
How did you repair the commutator?
How can I apply these tests to a 94 series? The wire color and the FNR all different.
9:16
I have a 2016 txt and I'm reading 40volts on my white wire on the ITS. What can I do?
Concise and to the point. Is there an ohm test across the inductive coil, what resistance should we see between the terminals?
Thanks for the comment! I’m sure you could test it like that but I don’t know what resistance value you would be looking for. Nothing published on that unfortunately. This testing procedure in the video is straight from the EZGO maintenance manual.
What do we ask for and where can we find the precharge resistor for the solenoid on the TXT?
You just need a 250ohm 5 watt resistor. I buy them from DigiKey and put my own terminals on them. Much cheaper than buying them premade with terminals from a Golfcart parts supplier.
Good video, looking forward to doing some testing on my 2002 EZGO TXT. When I bought it, I needed to replace a lot of parts, controller, solenoid, wiring harness, battery, motor, key switch, and foot switch. While it was on blocks I depressed the gas, and the wheels turned. I didn't run it full pedal, because I had read somewhere not to, when the wheels are not on the ground. Once I did get it on the ground, I depressed the gas pedal, and nothing happened. I pushed the pedal a few more times, and heard a pop, like the old type fused when they would blow. Any idea what would have popped???
Running at full throttle with the wheels off the ground for an extended amount of time is not recommended but it won’t hurt anything just long enough to test for wide open throttle. Without being able to see anything I’m gonna guess the speed controller fired if you hear that pop. I have a videos on testing speed controller and the ITS throttle sensor. Check them out. Might give you better insight into what your problem is.
about to pull my 2010 motor out and do this. the cart was fine then started bucking and not moving but making a sound when in fw or reverse. break works fine and tow works but stopped running. any tips on testing the bearing b4 pulling it out?
If the bearing is bad, the cart will just run a constant very slow speed. It won’t buck. Only way to test the bearing is with a hand held diagnostic tool. Those are pricey.
How do you tell if it’s a series or shunt motor ?
All check points check out, but will not accelerate when I get in the cart. Help?
also all multimeter checks are as they should be
when i do this test on my series motor. the motor barely spins. What could be the issue?
How can I get in contact with you?
Send me your number. I have rough & tuff I’m working on, looks like the same set up…
I have a rough & tuff with a bad controller. Can you please give the contact information to altrax
Is that a 36v test light?
I've got a click, cart doesn't go. What next?
How do u test the encoder bearing?
All my wires on controller show voltage when negative cable is disconnected from battery and then I lose all voltage when I connect it. The Solenoid and controller have been replaced… need some help here
When you buy a new solenoid, how do you know what side of the solenoid is the positive and negative? IThe solenoid has no markings, Thanks in advance
OK my light gets dimmer when I'm checking to see if power is going through the solenoid but when I step on the throttle the light turns off
I checked my diodes and they teated good. With the charger on and the meter between the 2 diodes i measured 61vac. Its a 36 volt charger. From the diode to the volt meter ingot 27vdc. Not sure how to check under a load
If I have a cart that runs slow, will this tell me what’s wrong?
Awesome video. Question. How would I bypass the charging read switch? Is it as simple as connecting positive off battery terminal? That’s what I gather from the diagram. Thanks
On a 48v motor can putting 48v to the armatures cause miotor damage? I had a customer call saying he tried to test the motor putting positive and negative to the armature posts and it sparked like crazy
Does this apply to a ‘92 36 volt Club Car motor also? I’m seeing other videos saying to connect S1 to A2, the positive to S2 and negative to A1 I’m just confirming which way is correct for my motor. Can you advise? Thanks
As long as it’s a series motor you can use this method.
This video was very well explained. Thank you.
What if pressing the pedal makes the light get dimmer? Anybody experienced this before?
You either have the test light lead on the wrong post or something is wrong
@@TheCart_Doctor it’s the right post. It my solenoid never makes a sound.
Thanks so much. None of the diagrams I have had the low power wire instructions. I have a SW182 contactor and would greatly appreciate a diagram for that unit, so I don't destroy my controller.
Ezgo? What year?
@@TheCart_Doctor Sory should have mentioned it. EZGO TXT. Missing the Serial number tag but its older and identical components to the unit you used in your video. It does NOT have a run tow switch.
Email me. I can’t chRe photos over RUclips comments. Thecartdoctor77@gmail.com
Great explanation!
Where to get the F&R contactor? Really professional presentation!!
Hello! You should be able to find them with most any of the online golf cart part companies. Just search for the Albright Reversing Contractor.
I agree with others, while the jumpers at the motor are obvious, it is not clear how they are connected at the power source. I assume that the "negative" end of the lead to the positive armature post is connected to the positive terminal of the power source (and that the "positive end of the lead from the negative coil post is connected to the negative terminal of the power source). Helpful video but could be clearer. Including a simple diagram would help clear up confusion.
Thanks for your feedback. Sorry this wasn’t clear for you. I usually do include diagrams in my videos but didn’t feel it was needed since everything was visible. Unfortunately RUclips doesn’t allow me to change the video once it’s uploaded. Reading your comment I think you are confusing yourself. There is no “negative” or “positive” end of any cable. you apply negative voltage to A2 meaning negative from your source of power and positive voltage to S1 meaning positive from your source of power. Then you place a jumper between A2 and S2. The source of power could be a few different options. You could use a 12v automotive battery or you could use 2 6v golfcart batteries wired in series. Hopefully this clears things up for you. Thanks for watching.
Any pointers where to get a new one
A new changer? Or Capacitor?
Capacitor
The quickest place is probably Amazon. Just search for the correct size you need.
My red wire on the gas pedal shows power 24/7. Green shows dead. Any thoughts?
That’s right. Red should have constant power and green shouldn’t. When you press the pedal to activate the microswitch, green should then have power. If you are testing at the pedal switch and don’t get power on green when pressing the pedal you have a bad micro switch. If you are testing at the 4 pin molex then it could either be a bad connection or wire or a bad switch. Hope this helps.
Great video, so many people assume it’s the solenoid. Very informative!
Normally, the capacitor is removed from the circuit prior to testing for accuracy.
Yep, that’s correct. That’s what I did. It was unplugged before testing. I may have forgotten to mention that but around the 3:29 mark you can see the wire unplugged.
Yes sir, thanks for sharing.
How do you test to see if the transformer is bad. I have an old 48 volt charger that I want to repurpose the transformer to something else if it is good
You can test the transformer by bypassing the timer board forcing it to turn on. Then on the output side of the transformer you should be getting 50-60v AC out on the 2 output legs. You must be very careful doing this because you are working with Live AC voltage at that point.
Have 2009 EZgo and the white wire connected to ats have power all the time (1.9) (2.0)don’t need to press the speed pedal any idea ?? Control box is the problem ????
Where can I get the manual? Thanks
Mine says 14 volt. I replace the micro switch, ITS and solenoid
Is there a number I can call u
Where do you recommend buying a new ITS sensor? I just diagnosed my has failed, has 15v on it with key on, barely changes with throttle pressed. I appreciate this video, helped me figure this out really quickly
My solenoid is staying engaged as soon as I turn run tow switch on. There is no key on this cart. Motor sounds like it's trying to turn but not getting enough power to move.
Thanks for the video. I have a 98 ego txt that is kicking my butt. I believe I have a bad controller but would like your input. I have checked batteries replace the solenoid and ITS. All voltage reads good except I have no voltage reading on either side of the ITS. My understanding is that it should have 14 volts on the black and then the .5-1.7 on the white as you just stated. Cart worked fine and got under a load and quit working. Do you think it’s the controller?
Did you ever figure out the problem
Hi so what if I am getting power on the m negative of the controller with key off and key on All other test you showed tested good but still won’t run Thanks