EZGO Series Speed Controller Test - Cart Won’t Run
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2023
- In this video I cover the basics of diagnosing a bad series speed controller on an EZGo TXT. We cover controller output testing, solenoid testing, pedal switch testing, and ITS testing.
00:11 Controller Output Test
00:40 Solenoid Test
01:44 Pedal Switch Test
02:09 ITS Testing
Very clear, concise & easy to understand explanation of how to test controller.
Thank you.
Thanks so much, great video my sweet young wifes 97 txt quit moving but the solenoid clicks these test are just what i needed.
EXCELLENT TO THE POINT ,CLEAR & CONCISE!!! I'VE WATCHED 5 OR 6 VIDEOS THAT WERE VERY LONG ,BAD FILMING & NOT PROFFESSIONAL . I'M NOW SUBSCRIBED TO ONLY YOUR CHANNEL!
Thanks! That’s what I try to do with this channel. There’s too many RUclips videos where half of the 10 minute tutorial is the person playing with their dog. Haha.
Great video, but what do you check if it has a new controller and solenoid, but the cart will only move in reverse?
So i have a 2000 model ezgo and batters are fully charged but cart will just roll really slow but if you keep going it will start to act normal any ideas on what could be causing this ? Thanks !
Thank you for the video wondering what make test light you are using .
Honestly I wish I knew myself: I’d go buy a few more. It’s hard to find a Decent ones now a days at the store. I’ve had this test light for 15+ years. I remember getting it out of a bargain bin at Northern Tool. It’s come along ways since I first bought it though. I’ve added the thicker 8 gauge wire, decorative wire sleeve , and heavy duty clamp. The only thing that’s original is the handle and probe pretty much.
I have a 2005 ezgo freedom it was running fine now it runs half speed. I tested everything you said to test everything is getting power,batteries are full. I’m so confused. I don’t know what to test, all wires are good. Please help!!! Krystal from Florida
I'm gonna ask this now but probably won't receive a reply in time. I am working on campgrounds 1997 EZGO TXT with DCS 36vdc. It was brought to me non-running. Went through entire electric system, found very corroded battery terminals and motor terminals. Found a broken yellow wire on ignition switch side which I repaired and whammo, cart runs again except I've discovered a new problem. With direction switch in forward, just barely touching throttle pedal goes to full throttle, spins tires and nearly pulls a wheelie. Not so bad in reverse although still a quick take-off. This is the same cart as like one in this video, same solenoid, box cover, and tow switch. I will perform ITS sensor test tomorrow to check voltages but wondering if you have experienced this issue with other similar EZGO DCS carts? There was supposed to be a switch with an orange wire which I believe is speed sensor but I cannot find where it terminates. I see the orange wire at the controller connector, it runs into the harness but don't know where it goes from there. I am told if the orange wire becomes unplugged or broken, cart goes to full power and that is what I'm trying to figure out.
Ezgo TXT 2009 all OEM. 6 Crown 6V 3yr old batteries. I tested each battery individually and they are all showing 6v and > 5v under load. My issue is the cart only runs 30min then quickly looses charge and is very slow. I am guessing this is a controller or a solenoid issue. I purchased a new solenoid but have not installed it yet. Should I get a new controller and change them both out?
I tend to think your issue is a battery issue. Not a controller issue. Unfortunately Crown batteries are not the best. I typically don’t see cars coming in with them more then a few years old and them still being strong. What I recommend is a discharge test. The way we do that is charge the batteries up and we hook them to a discharge machine. It will run the batteries under load simulating the cart running until they are too week to continue to run the cart. A Brad new seat of batteries should run 100-120 minutes. A good strong used set will run 75+ minutes. After the tester turns off, I restart the tester and check battery voltage under load after discharge. They should all be fairly consistent around 5.4-5.6 volts. Anything less then that and I recommend replacement. Reach out to your local shop and see if they have the equipment to run this discharge test before you spend money replacing a co troller.
Why would i get 38 volts on the whole system,its like the solenoids stuck open. I've tried two solenoids. Ez go Marathon Electric.
Will your test light blow with 36 volts? My cart will sometimes not move even though the solenoid clicks, and power goes through it. Then the next day it works like nothing is wrong. Is this sort of gremlin most likely something wrong inside the controller? Has this intermittent problem ever happened to you? My cart is missing the diode and/or blead resistor across the relay.
Sorry for the late response. My test light will work on 12v-72v. I’ve had it for 10+ years and just replaced the bull for the first time this summer.
I have intermittent run issues happen frequently. You just have to isolate potential problems and see if they are reoccurring. Often times there are several factors that play into an intermittent issue. That’s the best way I’ve found to find intermittent issues.
Will this controller test still work if I don’t have the motor hooked up? If so my ez go is doing the same thing. No power coming out of far right plug
Yep!
I did the first test and the light went dim to bright. Then tested solenoid it worked. The hot side of the controler went from dim to bright. The orange wire went on when the pedal was pushed. But still no go. Also checked all 4 terminals on the motor. When in forward all 4 went dim to bright and in reverse too. Could it be brushes or bad motor?
Please advise what else I can check.
My forward/reverse switch and my controller got hot, I changed the forward/reverse switch and it seems to run better however the cart starts to slow down very quickly even though I have a full charge on the battery’s and the controller gets warm, could this be a bd controller or is my motor going bad?
Sound like there’s excessive resistance somewhere. Most likely a bad connection. Check all your nuts on the FNR you installed to make sure they are tight as well as all the connections on the batteries, motor and controller.
Unfortunately, I’ve installed a few brand new FNR assemblies and they don’t make good contact right out of the box. The Chinese parts just don’t have good quality control. If those copper lugs aren’t making good contact in that assembly is can cause excessive resistance and over heating. If all your connections are tight I could disassemble that FNR and make sure those mating surfaces are nice and flat and parallel to each other. If that’s checks out I’d start looking at issues in the motor such as a stuck or burned motor brush. Best of luck. Sorry for the late response
what do i have to do in order to get rid off factory charging plug and the safety feature
What are you wanting to accomplish with removing the factory changing plug? Install and on board charger?
Solenoid still have energy at both terminals even before pressibg pedal and energizing the coil? How come?
Can anybody explain this please
Short answer: there’s a resistor or diode between the two poles.
This is called a pre charge resistor. It’s there’s to slowly and gently charge up the capacitors in the controller before main solenoid activation. Quick inrushes of current can damage them and this is a way to mitigate damage.
No its clear here. Thank you sir
Looks like i may have a diffrent set up? Than you have here. Maybe early 2000s txt
I need to verify my wiring. I think I have everything connected right but still can’t get it to run…I keep thinking maybe it’s something wrong with my foot pedal.
It might be my Reed switch…
What’s the year and make of your cart?
Model G200
Serial number 1288626
Year 2000
Maybe I'm playing mental gymnastics here whenever I test the solenoid on the red wire on the controller if I actuate the foot pedal am I supposed to have power coming out of the negative cable on the controller I was just trying to reconfirm if that's how I'm supposed to test
1:53 to 2:00
ezgo 36 volt txt 2009 model