When your checking the 4 lugs on the forward reverse switch does the pedal have to be pressed slightly or should I have battery pack voltage there already? I only have voltage when I press the pedal, thank you for any info you can provide.
Around 4:40 in your video you test voltage to the ignition on the FnR switch. I get power everywhere else but to this point. Thoughts on my problem? The blue wire for me reads 0
I have a 2007 club cart precedent 48 V New controller new sensor on the bottom of the gas pedal and new solenoid batteries are at 52 V. All I’m getting is a click at the solenoid and it has a run to switch which I’m guessing means it’s a region. How do I test and what to test next
Also when checking the M- I have battery pack voltage there without pressing pedal. I have the npx motor controller for this txt. Does that mean I have another issue because I have the voltage there already? Thanks again for any info.
Great video! Very detailed, question, cart does not move in “F” the solenoid clicks but no forward motion, however reverse works perfectly. Thanks for your input, subscribed 👍
Same question for me. Probe on positive out of battery pack and negative probe on my meter on M- showed .07 but with the petal all the way down only 2.2 volts. The solenoid engages in the cart feels like it wants to move, but won’t. Is this a bad controller? Sailboatshawn - what did you find was wrong with yours?
Yes. I always do a battery load test except this time. 36 volt system all my batteries were in the 6.7-6.8 v range. Convinced it was the controller I changed it out and had the same result. Then I pulled my load tester out. On of the 6v batteries would read 6.7v but put a load on it and it would go to 1v. Bad battery. Replaced it with a cheep Costco 6v and everything works great. The bad battery was the whole problem.
1 bad battery that is. The rest are fine even though they are 6 years old. I bought the cart in 06’ and this is only my 3rd set of batteries. Next month changing to Lithium batteries
So if you don't have battery pack voltage on the main lugs of the forward/reverse switch, does that mean it is bad? I have it on the bottom lug but very little on the other three.
You should have battery pack voltage at all 4 lugs so, if you don't it could be a bad F&R Switch? I would not get one off Amazon as we've seen a lot of those not good? - Use Code For 15% off - CSTV15 www.mygolfcartshop.com/c-244-forward-and-reverse-parts.aspx
You’re absolutely right and I was like I double check and do this and it finally got all the power to my motor. I was only getting 26.7v and now I’m getting full power!
Hello, in my case the solenoid left and right legs continuously has a power even a ignition off or on , and when i step on throttle, I can hear the solenoid is clicks but no movement i have 1997 yamaha G16E
when you test the M- you said it can be at zero but then when you press the pedal to the floor board then the meter should read pack voltage. well, if i’m doing this correctly it is not reading anything. what does that mean. you did this at like min 7 in the video
i just ordered a new controller and installed it, no luck… i tested the motor by jumping it and it runs so it’s good. I only get pack voltage on the very bottom lug out of the four. i’m very confused and i am not experienced with a multimeter at all but im trying. would a bad F&R switch make the M- not read
Here’s a list of my results following your video Pack v 43.7 brand new batteries Pack v on white charger wire Pack v on green fr wire Pack v all 4 lugs Bat + to m- 1v pedalup, pedal to the floor pack v Sm terminal on the left of the solonoid pack v On the controller: Red wire pack v Black wire 6-7v vid says 14-15v White wire 0-2.4 vid says 0-1.8 B- to b+ stays at pack v vid says goes to 0 There is my findings if you have any ideas let me know thanks
When I look for voltage on all F/R posts. I don’t get it. Only on bottom. Do I need to have in forward? Gas pedal pushed? Or all should have pack voltage also? Also I have the resistor on the big posts of the solenoid. Won’t that show voltage on B- and B+ even when you hit the gas?
Very clear and helpful. Thanks for explaining how to test all the electrical connections! God bless you too!
Video was great helped me fix mine. I’m off and cruising again thanks for the post
When your checking the 4 lugs on the forward reverse switch does the pedal have to be pressed slightly or should I have battery pack voltage there already? I only have voltage when I press the pedal, thank you for any info you can provide.
Great video, thanks!
Thank you what a great video. I learned so much.
Around 4:40 in your video you test voltage to the ignition on the FnR switch. I get power everywhere else but to this point. Thoughts on my problem? The blue wire for me reads 0
It's either a bad key switch or your blue wire is broken under the cart? Can call us at 276.632.8905
Always learn something, Thank you.
I have a 2007 club cart precedent 48 V New controller new sensor on the bottom of the gas pedal and new solenoid batteries are at 52 V. All I’m getting is a click at the solenoid and it has a run to switch which I’m guessing means it’s a region. How do I test and what to test next
Need to check your motor. ruclips.net/video/LlTxRM0Al2U/видео.htmlsi=NKNaBffyzSBu_3YW
Also when checking the M- I have battery pack voltage there without pressing pedal. I have the npx motor controller for this txt. Does that mean I have another issue because I have the voltage there already? Thanks again for any info.
Thanks for giving us a call!
Great video! Very detailed, question, cart does not move in “F” the solenoid clicks but no forward motion, however reverse works perfectly. Thanks for your input, subscribed 👍
We're sure we can help. This one might need you to call us to go through a couple things with you. 276.632.8905
I would love to see this for a 48v 1995 club car ds.
loved your videos. so simple to do. thanks, i have the bottom lug with no power on the fnr swithc. any suggestions. thanks
Check out our latest video, maybe that will help?
Not getting full battery voltage on the motor minus connection top of controller with pedal down. What does that mean?
Same question for me. Probe on positive out of battery pack and negative probe on my meter on M- showed .07 but with the petal all the way down only 2.2 volts. The solenoid engages in the cart feels like it wants to move, but won’t. Is this a bad controller?
Sailboatshawn - what did you find was wrong with yours?
Same problem any solution
Yes.
I always do a battery load test except this time. 36 volt system all my batteries were in the 6.7-6.8 v range. Convinced it was the controller I changed it out and had the same result.
Then I pulled my load tester out. On of the 6v batteries would read 6.7v but put a load on it and it would go to 1v. Bad battery.
Replaced it with a cheep Costco 6v and everything works great. The bad battery was the whole problem.
1 bad battery that is. The rest are fine even though they are 6 years old. I bought the cart in 06’ and this is only my 3rd set of batteries.
Next month changing to Lithium batteries
It's usually a bad controller or motor brushes might be worn to much to provide the voltage to the motor?
So if you don't have battery pack voltage on the main lugs of the forward/reverse switch, does that mean it is bad?
I have it on the bottom lug but very little on the other three.
You should have battery pack voltage at all 4 lugs so, if you don't it could be a bad F&R Switch? I would not get one off Amazon as we've seen a lot of those not good? - Use Code For 15% off - CSTV15 www.mygolfcartshop.com/c-244-forward-and-reverse-parts.aspx
OK that probably is bad. I have battery pack voltage on the very bottom one and only about five or six volts on all of the other three.
Any way you can send me that wiring for all 4 lugs on the forward reverse switch?
ruclips.net/user/shortsHkAwJADkSj8?si=ACmRm_8eaY-_1RvO
BAD CONNECTIONS CAN THROW U ....... THEY WILL PASS VOLTAGE BUT NOT CURRENT!
You’re absolutely right and I was like I double check and do this and it finally got all the power to my motor. I was only getting 26.7v and now I’m getting full power!
Hello, in my case the solenoid left and right legs continuously has a power even a ignition off or on , and when i step on throttle, I can hear the solenoid is clicks but no movement i have 1997 yamaha G16E
What is your overall voltage in the pack?
@@cartsmarttv 38v at this moment
@@shavkat84 Need to see if this reads the same on both lugs of the solenoid when it clicks? Transferring the power?
When I do the high amp circuitry test I'm getting 23.7 then I press the pedal I get battery pack voltage. So is the controller bad?
Are you getting battery voltage from the M-?
@@cartsmarttv yes when I press the pedal. With just my lead on m it should read 0 right? Mine is reading 23.7
when you test the M- you said it can be at zero but then when you press the pedal to the floor board then the meter should read pack voltage. well, if i’m doing this correctly it is not reading anything. what does that mean. you did this at like min 7 in the video
In most cases this sounds like a bad controller?
i just ordered a new controller and installed it, no luck… i tested the motor by jumping it and it runs so it’s good.
I only get pack voltage on the very bottom lug out of the four. i’m very confused and i am not experienced with a multimeter at all but im trying.
would a bad F&R switch make the M- not read
I got a 2002 western 42v cart here and I followed your video but I lost power at the small lug on the solonoid what direction should I go next?
Here’s a list of my results following your video
Pack v 43.7 brand new batteries
Pack v on white charger wire
Pack v on green fr wire
Pack v all 4 lugs
Bat + to m- 1v pedalup, pedal to the floor pack v
Sm terminal on the left of the solonoid pack v
On the controller:
Red wire pack v
Black wire 6-7v vid says 14-15v
White wire 0-2.4 vid says 0-1.8
B- to b+ stays at pack v vid says goes to 0
There is my findings if you have any ideas let me know thanks
Sounds like the ITS but don't count out your controller as they communicate together. Give us a call if you can to talk to a tech. 276.632.8905
When I look for voltage on all F/R posts. I don’t get it. Only on bottom. Do I need to have in forward? Gas pedal pushed? Or all should have pack voltage also? Also I have the resistor on the big posts of the solenoid. Won’t that show voltage on B- and B+ even when you hit the gas?
@@matthejl8 you should have voltage on all 4 lugs of F&R, yes to the Resistor.
@@cartsmarttv only voltage on one, but in all other appropriate areas…means prob bad FR switch?
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