Supremely articulate, concise, and intelligent presentation! Thank you, your words have the magic of making me confident and hopeful that even I could possibly fix the problem that my mechanic (a good guy) had to give up on for business reasons.
Thank you. Based on symptoms I now believe that it's my car's Tbody system needs examination and then compare it to my transmission which the mechanic thought was the problem.
Same here. I was told I needed a new transmission. I went to have the accelerator pedal position sensor & and throttle body sensor replaced.The mechanic kept saying those parts, have nothing to do with your car not going above 30mph then slowing to a stop. Rpm @ 3-4. He quoted $2900 to replace the transmission w/6mth warranty which would only cover parts. He said I could go get a 2nd opinion at the transmission shop right around the corner 🫤
Thank you for sharing the video. It was very insightful to troubleshooting my car issue. I will try the tips you suggested. I changed out the TPS, cleaned the MAF sensor, but the problem didn't go away. I will try to clean the throttle body next.
Very informative. Thanks.😊Just found out a vehicle I purchased recently has this issue. 😢 I think I need to enroll in automotive classes so I know everything to look for and ask about prior to purchase.
@@8020Media I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris I had to replace my old Throttle Body, with a new one just wanted to ask you if when the new one is installed, id it just plug and play? or doe the new Throttle body have to be calibrated with a computer?
Great explanation of how the car works. My throttle body looks clean, but my acceleration is jerky. My r p ms are erratic, I don't have Quick responseWhen I press down the pedal at times. I do not have any codes and my o d b.Reader didn't read anything. I'm assuming my t p s is the problem, but shouldn't I have a code?
Very informative videos. Thank you. I also think that a bad TPS can start to occur without throwing a code, meanwhile incorrectly adding too much fuel in the mix and causing the DPF to accumulate soot quicker than usual. In turn, it causes more passive burns. Let me know your thoughts.
@8020Media according to Mazda, diesel engines do not use the throttle gate, its motor or its actuator position sensor. It remains open. These components are used on petrol engines. Diesel fuel is sprayed at heavier doses under acceleration.
@8020Media on another note. As per the notes on the CRC Throttle body & air intake cleaner (code 5079), it is not to be used on vehicles with diesel or rotary engines, turbochargers or superchargers.
Removing the cable the way they did (and got rid of Power Steering Pumps, too) made it easier to get rid of people that expose corruption. They can take control of your car and slam you into a pilon or semi truck... Think about that... I won't have such things in my car. I don't like the fact that someone can remotely take control of my vehicle and drive me into danger. It happens, folks.
@@8020Media It happens. The tyrants have taken out members of the truth community several times that way, taking control of their vehicles and slamming them into stuff...
I gotta find that sensor and clean it now .... My throttle is completely stuck shut, it does exactly what you described as well. Turns on, if i leave it on idle it will rev up and down like crazy and shake at times , then as soon as i put it on drive it goes into smooth feeling but wont rev up at all, i take that back it does rev up but nothing past 3x1000 yet it doesn't accelerate either...it just goes at like 2-5mph i put it back on parking and it does the crazy idling thing again....i took it apart and tried doing what you said but its shut completely and maybe im missing it somewhere but i cannot find that sensor! 😂 I got a 2004 Toyota camry
If you don't have money but have time, the parts I would want to clean is throttle body, IAC valve, mass airflow sensor? Anymore ideas? Did he mention Idle air control valve? My 05 chevy 1500 2wd has almost 300k miles. There's room for improvement for acceleration hesitation. Most folks don't seem to dig the idea of cleaning o2 sensors instead of just replacing them at this point. My check engine light stays solid with the only code being the evap system even after paying a shop to run the smoke test. I replaced the canister vent valve solenoid.. been on for years after 15 years of driving my truck. The purge valve was easy & cheep to replace.. fixed problem with truck struggling to start after putting in gas.. Don't buy aftermarket sensors right? OEM only? Any more cheap & easy fixes/ preventive maintenance on sensors? Damn electronics...
I have a 2016 Nissan Altima. When i go to hit the pedal to accelerate the car, it takes its time. When my RPM goes up to 3, it bucks, and jerks. Or, when i go pass the 40 MPH mark, it starts to hesitate and jerk. I was told by the Nissan dealership that it was my transmission going out. 😢
The accelerator pedal position sensor and the tps have similar symptoms, however you mentioned in another video that the app sensor could put the car in limp mode but not the tps. The problem with my 2008 mustang gt is that a lot of times it wont set obvious mil codes.
I was driving my 2013 Chevrolet Impala with the big 3.6L, got up to about 45 mph but the car would not shift into gear. The engine revved up to 7k rpm with about 30% of throttle and would hesitate to rev down even when not using the accelerator, normally it takes about 75% throttle or more to rev the engine up to red line. I stopped and cycled the ignition but it didn't help much. It didn't happen again but I noticed that shift points were off, a slight hesitation and shudder before shifting into gear. I also somewhat have a rough idle but the engine doesn't chop, sort of vibrates like it had bad mounts when starting up on a cold engine. No codes whatsoever, at least not on the dashboard, so I have to find my OBDII scanner to see if any are saved. I've been having shifting problems since 2018 at 86k miles, but nothing strange like that ever happened before.
@@8020Media No current codes at all, and there are only two history codes; P0877, P0989: transmission fluid pressure sensor/switch "D" and "E" circuit low. I always thought that was the reason for the transmission having a rough shift into gear. Another thing I noticed is that the fuel rail fluctuates between 1.5-2.5 psi with the key on engine off, pump was near 50 psi with consistent pressure and the rail was primed at 45 psi but kept moving up and down. I have a small fuel leak somewhere in the engine bay so that might be the problem. I also seen that my throttle position is at 33% with the engine off, and I've read that most throttle-by-wire cars are less but I'm not sure what it's supposed to be for mine. I'm also not sure if it has a limit when the engine is off because I'd only seen it open to 45% even with the pedal all the way down.
@@8020Media I visited a shop to see what they could find and they said that the shift timing is normal, but all the issues I had were likely due to a bad wheel bearing, I assume it was a broken magnetic ring for the speed sensor. Only made a few trips so far and it hasn't acted funny yet, just seems a little more hesitant or unsure of what to do after I let off the accelerator than before. Might be a separate issue.
I removed my throttle body on my 2018 Ram 1500 3.6 L Cleaned it with CRC throttle body cleaner. Did the relearn key in on position gas pedal to the floor for 15 seconds. I drive on the highway 5 days a week, 80 mph no issues. But since I have done this once in awhile when I'm at a traffic light or in the morning when I first start the truck the throttle body Acts up
@8020Media after i cleaned my tb it won't start. I have a 2003 3.8 chevy impala and it turns over but won't stay running with or without pressing the gas pedal. I'm lost. I've changed all the sensors on the tb. They meaning chevy discontinued this tb😢i give up
I am sorry , but my 2002 Ranger still has a throttle cable . I think you meant sometime in the early 2000s and after that most vehicles didn't have cables anymore . Depending on make and model of course . I don't think very many , if any started not using cables in the 80s or even 90s . Thanks
Hi. Get all the symptoms you mentioned at beginning of video. Honda jazz 2009 hatchback 1.2. Petrol 5 speed 4 spark plugs only. NB NO SENSOR CODES. NO ENGINE CODES. BUT VEHICLE IDLE BIT ERRATIC, DEFINITELY JERKY/HESITANT, SOMETIMES STALLING, VEHICLE TAKES LONG TIME TO PICK UP SPEED AFTER JERK AND HAPPENS EVERY TIME SELECTING GEARS TO HIGHER RATIO. FONE FULL SERVHCE. CHANGED PLUGS WITH HONDA EXPENSIVE PLUGS, OIL AND AIR FILTETS REPLACED, OIL CHANGED, CHANGED TRANSMISSION OIL FULLY AN REPLACED THE SPECIALIST WASHERS. EXHAUST HAS NO LEAKS. PETROL FLOW PRESSURE? COLLAPSED CATALYTIC FRAME IN CATALYTIC CONVERTOR? FUEL PUMP? BUILT IN FUEL FILTER? Mechanic cleaned egr valve, cleaned air map sensor, cleaned mass airflow sensor. Checked wires none loose or faulty. THROTTLE BODY NOT YET STRIPPED AND CLEANED. PLEASE CAN YOU ADVISE? mileage on honda 178000.Goes fine otherwise apart from annoying jerking. 4 new tyres fitted 3 weeks ago. Clutch not faulty apparently. PLEASE ADVISE. YHANK YOU. Martin martinbfbf@gmail.com
Will a throttle body cause a miss until the engine worms up? Changed colls spark plugs and wires .runs normal when worm.when it's cold same thing thing don't have a code reader. 2007 Chev uplander
94 Lexus ES300 V6, engine stalls 50 180 seconds after car starts(maybe coolant sensor? as car heats up?),, but i will look at throttle and idle areas to see if grimed up, only 47K miles, at stop light i have to put it into low gear(automatic tx) as first gear slips in Drive, the only code i have is the Shift solenoid "A" electrical code. I have been getting by since august 2023 shortly after i bought it so i am hoping the issue is fuel,air, spark, sensors and not tranny, what do u think? Wish u were near greensboro nc, i like your slow logic based explanations!
What causes code P2119 on a 2017 ford explorer? Check engine light is on & when you go to accelerate often pulling out its like something is slipping but usually just on taking off
J - This points to an issue with the he throttle body, throttle position sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor, or throttle actuator control motor could be defective.
I had my traction control module repaired on my C5 Z06 and everything seemed fine for while then I punched it one day and everything went south the reduced power light came on and the check engine lights and the traction control light 💡 I was able to get it home I did the onboard diagnostic check and codes P0120 and 2135 appeared and a few others I was able to clear the other codes, but not these codes I replaced throttle body in the car runs really weird. The RPMs are up so I’m kind of leaning towards. Accelerator pedal sensor your thoughts?
I have a nissan 08 Altima 2.5 My issue with it is that when l stop, then the car won't go only goes to 10mph for about 5 to 10 seconds and then it starts picking up the speed, it doesn't happen all the time, maybe 2 times a week, and l don't get any faulty codes.
I have a 2014 Kia Soul+ 2.0. It has every single symptom described here except the stalling and CEL. It jerks when accelerating between 35-45 mph. It won't accelerate past 60. Starting around 40-45, it doesn't want to shift unless i let up on the accelerator. It idles rough. At this point, I've changed: plugs, coils, pcv valve, MAF sensor, upstream o2 sensor., oil & filter, have run a fuel system cleaner through on 3 consecutive fill ups. Even switched to exclusively use Top Tier member fuel. Is it possible for the TPS to fail without initiating a code/ illuminating CEL?
Hi 8020 media. I have a problem with my 03 Ford Lightning truck. Ive asked around everywhere and nobody can give me an answer. My truck has lost power and wasting too much gas. I did the test on my mass air flow sensor where you have the vehicle on and you unplug the MAF sensor and if your vehicle turns off, its good but if it stays on, the MAF sensor is bad. Well mine stays on so i think its bad. But then i came across this video and think it might be the TPS. Im gonna try to clean it first but if it doesnt work then ill just change to a new TPS. My truck idling is rough like it shakes like it would be running on 6 to 7 spark plugs when it has 8 spark plugs. I bought all eight spark plugs new and installed them so i know its not the spark plugs. I have a K&N high flow air intake and tried to just swap out the MAF sensor but cant find a way to remove it, like its stuck and not meant to change. Do you know if i can change out the MAF sensor only on K&N filters? Because i would hate to have to buy the whole Air Intake set again which costs $350. Any info helps, thank you.
How about cutting off and the seeing the little car withe the locking symbol? I had brought a new throttle body for 05 Chevy trailblazer extended LS , I hope this works
Hopefully you answer this comment!!! My didge caravan 2010 is throwing a oxygen sensor code p0038 the pedal doesn't accelerate when in park and doesn't go faster than mph in drive (limp mode) i say the o2 sensor is the reason for all of this my husband is stuck on the pedal issues
H - Definitely sounds like an o2 sensor issue to us. We have a full video on oxygen sensors that we think may be helpful: ruclips.net/video/hpqXLGAE4Xo/видео.html
My 2017 Jeep wranglers absolute and relitive throttle position sensors are always at 0% when looking at the live data. Error codes p0122 and p2135. Help
I have an old 2003 Mitsubishi galant 2.4l, 235k miles. Their known for rough idles, yet no one per the forums in the past 20 years have pin pointed the actual cause. I myself have cleaned the front of the TB plate and inside with carb cleaner. I then have to reset the car in order to erase the auto tune of it adapting to the build up of gunk. It will run smoother for a little while but not 100% smooth then go back to rougher idles. Its started to idle real high before warming up, and even when it lowers the rpms to a more suitable level (starts around 2k rpm, eventually lowers to 1.5 or 1k rpm. When i first cleaned it it went from the rough 1k rpm to about 750 rpm which was smoother. Sometimes time it will drop to about 500 about the first 15 mins of running after warming up at idle in Drive and sometimes stalls out. Do you suggest cleaning the TB and TBS sensor better or start looking into the idle control senseor. Once it gets running it runs fine until more recently it hasnt wanted to slow the rpms down adequately when im slowing down, to the point when im almost or at a dead stop the rpms are still pushing 1500 trying to push against the brakes. One morning the rpms were jumping up and down as i was easing off the gas to slow or stop.
Buick 2007 3.5 stalls coming to stop or letting off the gas pedal. I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF with the correct cleaner. Not throwing any codes.
I used an obd2 with live data. I was able to check the gas peddle sensor and throttle position. On the data when I press the gas peddle I saw it move on live data and the throttle position didn't move on live data. I'm replacing the throttle body sense the throttle position sensor is part of the assembly and not able to replace separately. I used the Blue Driver OBD2 scanner.
@@conanharris3472 Yes, I heard that the Throttle position sensor was not expensive . But when I call the auto parts store it was almost $200!!! Unreal ripoff
I have an intermittent issue with the 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo seemingly losing the information from the computer on how the throttle should be working. It would not idle until we ran it, keeping it at 4000 rpm and above for about 15-20min and then it would idle and drive again.
I have a 2005 titan my trucks been driving like crap for 2 years now brought it to multiple mechanics nobody can tell me what's wrong it feels like it onky has half the power it used to almost like im driving threw a puddle or pulling something it's not limp nod cuase I can get up to w.e speed I want but 99% of the time it drives slowish and every once in a blue moon it's fast and drives great I've beeb told it's not the fuel pump not clogged cats I've replaced the maf sensor intake filter plugs and coils and a bunch of other stuff I have 0 codes idk what todo can it be the throttle position sensor ?
I'm going to assume you have at least 150,000 miles on the vehicle seeing how old it is, so, if you've never replaced the TPS or MAP, I'd start there, it's about time for either or both of those to fail and you'll likely be replacing them soon anyways. O2 sensors will probably soon follow. Hope this helps.
Been having trouble with my wifes 2012 malibu i jus bought a new throttle body hopefully it fixes. I already replaced the maf, map, crank, and front cam shaft sensors and still shows the esc light and traction control light. My next step is to replace gas pedal sensor😔
Really great video thank you! Q: Is there a case where a car has no any accelaration pedal sensor on gas pedal? I have an i30 Hyundai 2008 1,4 and i can not find this out.
Certainly, from a quick search it seems like the I30 uses a cable-operated throttle control system so it wouldn't have an accelerator pedal position sensor.
@@8020Media Thank you very much! Really appreciate ☺ So do you believe that there is a way where i could make the gas pedal more sensitive as it's a little bit lazy right now. Don't know if throttle sensor could change the overall exprerience.
My Nissan Nerva 2000, started dropping its idle slowly over a cupule of days to a point where i had turn up the idle screw back up to 700 RPM, when the car is warmed up after driving for about 20 minuet's it would give a bit of a misfire while siting at a red light but then come good on acceleration, it only happens when the car is warmed right up..? No vacuum leaks, Throttle body is clean, Could it be the idle air control valve..? Or a faulty TPS..? My car has a 14 pin port, I've been to three mechanics for a diagnostics test and they don't have the right scan tool for my year model, And it never fails when a mechanic takes the car for a test drive, Well the bloody thing doesn't miss a beat. I guess I will have to try changing both.. Also no engine check light comes up on the dashboard..
Ive got a 2008 chevy impala LT its only having rpm slips on take off at red lights about 20 mins into starting to ive been seeing alot comments of sensor issues going into the shop tomorrow going to get it scanned hopefully we get this fixed so i can ride off into the sunset tmm
2018 Kia Optima EX get Check Engine light (on/off) with P0010, and P0011 code. Hi idle at 1.5-2.0 after replacing, Fuel Pump, Intake Valve, and CAM sensor... What else could it be
My C5 Z06 my reduced power flash and then I turn the car off and it will not start it just turns over. I noticed the car kinda running a little bit funny just before everything went south, any thoughts
Mine did the exact same thing before this incident happened I ended up sending my traction control module to get repaired and reinstalled it and everything was fine codes went away and this last incident is where I at now
Hi I have the jerky and hesitant acceleration with also not reving all the way, but can it also cause RPM to get stuck? When that happens I flip gas pedal and it gets unstuck.
What do I use to clean the TPS? I have taken my Sentra back and forward to Nissan 10x for the same code: p0101, MAF sensor, to firestone, to Midas, and an off brand mechanic same code. Today, Nissan says they're going to try 2 replace TPS for $1787.00, are they CRAZY!! I'll try what you have suggested first by cleaning it or replacing it. Thank you.
I have had my jeep in the shop 5xs now because of the throttle body. The sensor has been replaced, the wiring harness, and the throttle body itself 2xs now, and also had to have the sensor reset. It is still acting up. The light, along with the check engine, is back on. Body shop is saying I will need to pay for a factory throttle body instead of the aftermarket I have had. I have no faith in them at this point. 2017 Jeep Patriot Sport. Any suggestions? My brother said replace the pedal
2017 Ford transit, I had a bad throttle body with code which I replaced and reprogrammed by driving the van for 20 minutes to learn my driving, 6 months later now when I deaccelerate and using the brakes to stop when speedometer reaches about 30 mph before stopping the rpm shoots to 4000 rpm then it comes down, no codes at all and it does not happens everytime just randomly, I don't have any jerking or any accelerating problem at all , any thoughts appreciated thx
I've been dealing with throttle control code on my 2007 Honda. We've replace the throttle body and the pedal sensor assemblies with no change. There doesn't seem to be a wiring fault. I've isolated that the issue could be a relay associated with the circuitry of the electronic throttle control unit. Do you think a relay might also be a possibility?
@@8020Media Thanks for the reply. Yes. Initially I had a simple P0507 (Idel Air Control Systme, RPM higher than expected). After eliminating the possibility of a vacuum leak the symptoms continued and I ended up seeing a P2101 (Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance). The repair shop is insisting that because the throttle body was not OEM Honda, it could still be a bad throttle body, however, I have noted that there is a Throttle Conrol Relay that could be the culprit.
I have a 2016 Jeep Cherokee 3.2l Trailhawk. I’ve replaced the throttle body, the mass air flow temp sensor and the accelerator pedal with sensor. After each replacement of each part, the red lightening bolt indicator would return. Some drives it wouldn’t happen, but most times I take it out, it pops back up on my dash board. Is there something that I’m missing as to why this keeps happening?
@@8020Media I don’t have any engine codes. It’s just random that the service electronic speed control indicator pops on. Usually at lower speeds. Some times it does and some times it doesn’t. Like I said, it’s just random. New filter, new throttle body, new accelerator pedal position switch, new mass air flow temp meter.
@@8020Media I’m gonna have to take it somewhere and get it scanned. I’m Just worried they won’t see something and I’ll have to pay and then it’ll come back on as I leave. Never fails.
@@8020Media so I’ve been messing around with my JScan tool and I keep getting this code. Says “active” C10D0. Something about electric park brake failure. I guess there is a sensor that bad there. My epb works fine though and I don’t get any check engine lights or anything telling me there is something wrong. Can this be tied into this “service electronic throttle control” issue?
Hello bro, i have a 2015 genesis coupe and in the last week the abs and antislide light came on and p0123,p0222,p2105,p2106, p2110, p2159 and p0507...i ve clean all sensor and remove the tb controller i had on my gaz pedal but didnt change anything...and my car is not as nervous as it is supposed to be and dont shift at normal rpm but randomly...i ve think about the tbs, the app or pcm...but with those codes what ull look first?
Digital Throttles started coming in the 2000s. 90s OBD1 and OBD2 will probably have a mechanical throttle; I don't know what this guy is talking about in the beginning with digital throttles starting inthe 1980s (for your consumer grade car?) -- I don't know -- maybe he's talking about foreign vehicles or NASCAR or funny cars. Mechanical throttle body is basically a potentiometer||[ resistor ]||[volume knob like on your radio] that monitors the position of the throttle and tells the computer the location|position of the throttle. When the TPS goes bad, the computer makes stupid decisions and stuff shifts wrong and the motor and transmission will screw up. Back-probe test the signal to see if the resistance is moving with the throttle -- if not then its screwed up. Replace it or fix|clean it. You usually replace it. Digital Throttles means all of that is happening on a chip (at the microscopic level); digital throttles are in the new cars and they're a piece of crap. Good luck - because you're going to need to get a computer that can talk to the vehicle's computer to see the digital signals for what is wrong with it. This is why DIYer buy Chevrolet because the fixing is open sourced kind of. Ford and other brands are proprietary and you have to buy in to getting the equipment (or reverse engineer that stuff yourself). Don't go throwing parts at the problem in hopes that it'll be fixed.
@@8020Media I did have actually a clean of the fuel system I had this done last year. I did replace my air filter and now I'm not getting the code. The air filter seemed to be clogged.
@@8020Media Thank you for responding...yes I have a simple small one and after scanning it 2-3 times just to be sure, it didn't throw any codes nor did it have any stored codes or pending codes. Also I might add, this is a 2013 Tahoe that I just bought about a month ago so I don't know how it was treated before. I took a look at the throttle body and when I lifted the flap I could see it was really dirty inside the throttle body and the intake manifold. Could it just need to be cleaned and the TPS is probably still good being that I'm not getting a check engine light or any codes?
@@8020Media ok so I cleaned the throttle body and the inside of the intake really good and had very little improvement. So then I went ahead and changed the TPS with the battery disconnected for a sure restart if the throttle body position, and then did a reprogramming on the sensor. It seems to be doing a lot better, not 100 percent yet bcuz it needs to be driven a little so the computer can also relearn, and relearn according to the way I drive. To sum it up I guess sometimes you won't get a check engine light for this problem. And I do know that the engine light itself does work, I purposely make it come on to check it. Thanks for your help, and glad to offer feed back 👍
HI, I have 2009 Camry le 4. Cylinder, the problem is it’s feel like chocking when accelerating then it opens up , what do you thing the problem is also where is the location of the map sensor. Thank you
2008 Ford Edge - 3 times in the past 2 months I’ve been driving and after 20 minutes or so I feel a bit of a slip, can’t accelerate and the wrench light comes on. Check engine light does not come on. When I pull over and restart it seems fine. However the last time I restarted there was a very big clunk. I’ve taken it to the garage twice; first time they said without the codes they can’t tell and to come right when it happens but I have to restart to be able to drive it and the codes get wiped. The last time they were able to see a code but didn’t write it down when they went back to look again it was gone but he said it was a transmission code. With the age of the vehicle I don’t want to put much money in. Do you think I should take it to a transmission shop before changing throttle body to see if they find something? Thank you (female wanting to be educated while dealing with garages 😊)
@@8020Media Thank you for responding. I do not have a scanner. I thought the mechanics would have been able to pull up codes. I didn't know they weren't stored.
K - Sometimes even without a check engine light, codes can still be stored. Typically this is the best way to diagnose because it points you in the right direction versus throwing money at guesses..
@@8020Media The last garage visit they said there wasn’t a code showing. You mentioned an obd scanner. I looked it up and see it’s pretty inexpensive so I’m going to get one as see if I can find anything. Thanks for the idea.
Is it possible to get no error codes when this issue occur. I have same symptoms with my car, but diagnostics does not show anything at all and there is no warnings on dashboard. I was driving the car, at one point I have put my foot off the gas paddle to slow down and then put my foot on the gas paddle again, just a little bit and noticed it does not accelerate like it works on 2 or 3 cylinders or like its stuck in higher gear. But it did not. When I stopped on red light it barely moves and. It also rough idles. We have already checked injectors and camshaft, everything works perfect. For Injector we basically replaced the ones we suspected to be bad. I have 1.6 hdi Peugeot 508 88kw 2017
On my van the check engine light didn't come on. I used a higher end scanner and found the codes. Used live data to find out the throttle body wasn't reacting with the peddle.
@@8020Media It was ECU on mine. They have been checking every single part on the car for two months and at the end it turned out to be ECU. Even more, guy told me that its always more likely that its ECU than anything else. WTF
any advice on a related error The P2100 code definition is “Throttle Actuator 'A' Control Motor Circuit/Open? What's the meainng of "open"? What does it mean that the circuit is "open"?
@@8020Media So it's not the electrical circuit that is "open" but the throttle flap (or at least the sensor indicates that the flap is open i guess) thanks :)
My 99 Silverado has the old cable with the TPS sensor. Truck starts but you have to give it a little gas in order for it to not shut off. Got the P0121 Code idk if that could be the cause for it to not wanna stay running after start up
Here because I need help lol😭 so my 17 Toyota Corolla is vibrating when my RPM drops to 500 when at a stop also my car squeaks when I release from my brakes. I got a diagnostic done and everything is fine, I got spark plugs and fuel kit done and still does it.😭😭 Also they looked at my brakes and rotors and they said they’re also fine. Idk what to do:)
My 05 lexus rx330. Driving on the hwy @ 45mph, I stepped on the gas pedal to quickly accelerate too pass another car. The car jerked & the engine, vsr, track off light all came on. The gas pedal felt dead, the car was slowing down, could not accelerate. I had to pulled over & stop, turned off the car. I waited a few minutes started up & drove back on the hwy. My car came back to drive normal but the engine lights were still on. I drove home. Obd code P2112???? It said throttle body stuck. So is it the throttle body sensor or gas pedal sensor or both?
I just threw a P2135 code on my 06 G35. The car would barely move, then take off. Luckily I was down the street from home and was able to limp it home 🤦
D - If the sensor isn't expensive for your vehicle, you can try to replace it and go from there. But we wouldn't go throwing money out at parts without engine codes. What symptoms are you getting exactly?
@@8020Media hesitation at mid speed. Press the throttle no power then it takes off very rarely, but once in a while, it will stall when I come to a stop, but very rarely
@8020Media my truck struggles to accelerate like it's rpm is stuck and if I let off the gas and press on it again it will accelerate..... all this happens after the car is warmed up like 30 minutes or so of driving but before that it's fine
Im not getting any error and my car when started is perfect but when i move the car a bit and press clutch to change gears my car rpm goes ro 2 - 2.5 and then it doesn't goes down until i leave the clutch or press acc slightly then rpm drops down to normal , it all started when i serviced my throttle body and tps
Supremely articulate, concise, and intelligent presentation! Thank you, your words have the magic of making me confident and hopeful that even I could possibly fix the problem that my mechanic (a good guy) had to give up on for business reasons.
S - We really appreciate the feedback! That is our goal with these videos :)
Thank you. Based on symptoms I now believe that it's my car's Tbody system needs examination and then compare it to my transmission which the mechanic thought was the problem.
S - Are you getting any engine codes?
@8020Media I have this same issue my mechanic keeps suggesting it's the transmission but the codes says otherwise
I have p0121 and p0198 codes
Same here.
I was told I needed a new transmission.
I went to have the accelerator pedal position sensor & and throttle body sensor replaced.The mechanic kept saying those parts, have nothing to do with your car not going above 30mph then slowing to a stop. Rpm @ 3-4.
He quoted $2900 to replace the transmission w/6mth warranty which would only cover parts.
He said I could go get a 2nd opinion at the transmission shop right around the corner 🫤
W - Sorry to hear this.. Keep us updated please!
Thank you for sharing the video. It was very insightful to troubleshooting my car issue. I will try the tips you suggested. I changed out the TPS, cleaned the MAF sensor, but the problem didn't go away. I will try to clean the throttle body next.
B - Thanks for the feedback! Keep us posted.
My engine was taking water throughout the throut body to Valves up down samp
M - What?
I have no CEL...I think I have a bad fuel filter or clogged filter
Idle air control valve?
It could be the muffler bearing or the fuberlater valve also
R - True!
2:30 signs and symptoms
C - Thanks. We have that in the description too.
When cars went electronic it destroyed them I wish it was back in the olden days
B - They certainly don't make them like they used to.
@@8020Mediayeah. Give me a normal carburated motor up to the late 70's n l'l have it going pretty darn well
@@markhorrell9213😂 - nah man. Carbs suck. I’ve had plenty and there’s no beating EFI
Go buy a 69 camaro then. Problem solved
@@polloloci21 cable-operated injection👑
Very informative. Thanks.😊Just found out a vehicle I purchased recently has this issue. 😢 I think I need to enroll in automotive classes so I know everything to look for and ask about prior to purchase.
A - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helps! We have a ton of DIY videos that could be helpful: ruclips.net/p/PLiX521qA-UEQrLY1ZRDnLP37yCDCcvQCV
I watched a few videos on this subject and this was the best one. thank you so much.
S - Thanks for the feedback! Glad we could be helpful.
@@8020Media I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris I had to replace my old Throttle Body, with a new one just wanted to ask you if when the new one is installed, id it just plug and play? or doe the new Throttle body have to be calibrated with a computer?
A - Did you DIY it or was it done at a shop?
@@8020Media Myself
Great explanation of how the car works. My throttle body looks clean, but my acceleration is jerky. My r p ms are erratic, I don't have Quick responseWhen I press down the pedal at times. I do not have any codes and my o d b.Reader didn't read anything. I'm assuming my t p s is the problem, but shouldn't I have a code?
G - Thanks for the feedback. Not always. But here's a video that could also be helpful: ruclips.net/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/видео.html
Very informative videos. Thank you. I also think that a bad TPS can start to occur without throwing a code, meanwhile incorrectly adding too much fuel in the mix and causing the DPF to accumulate soot quicker than usual. In turn, it causes more passive burns. Let me know your thoughts.
O - This is true! Thanks for sharing.
@8020Media according to Mazda, diesel engines do not use the throttle gate, its motor or its actuator position sensor. It remains open. These components are used on petrol engines. Diesel fuel is sprayed at heavier doses under acceleration.
@8020Media on another note. As per the notes on the CRC Throttle body & air intake cleaner (code 5079), it is not to be used on vehicles with diesel or rotary engines, turbochargers or superchargers.
O - Thanks for sharing this insight.
Removing the cable the way they did (and got rid of Power Steering Pumps, too) made it easier to get rid of people that expose corruption.
They can take control of your car and slam you into a pilon or semi truck... Think about that...
I won't have such things in my car. I don't like the fact that someone can remotely take control of my vehicle and drive me into danger.
It happens, folks.
S - Interesting take.
@@8020Media It happens. The tyrants have taken out members of the truth community several times that way, taking control of their vehicles and slamming them into stuff...
Thank you for your time making this it was very informative
C - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it was helpful.
I gotta find that sensor and clean it now .... My throttle is completely stuck shut, it does exactly what you described as well. Turns on, if i leave it on idle it will rev up and down like crazy and shake at times , then as soon as i put it on drive it goes into smooth feeling but wont rev up at all, i take that back it does rev up but nothing past 3x1000 yet it doesn't accelerate either...it just goes at like 2-5mph i put it back on parking and it does the crazy idling thing again....i took it apart and tried doing what you said but its shut completely and maybe im missing it somewhere but i cannot find that sensor! 😂 I got a 2004 Toyota camry
M - Thanks for the feedback! Keep us updated.
Same exact everything with my g35, have you solved the issue ?
Good no nonsense video! Thank you.
S - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helps!
If you don't have money but have time, the parts I would want to clean is throttle body, IAC valve, mass airflow sensor? Anymore ideas? Did he mention Idle air control valve? My 05 chevy 1500 2wd has almost 300k miles. There's room for improvement for acceleration hesitation. Most folks don't seem to dig the idea of cleaning o2 sensors instead of just replacing them at this point. My check engine light stays solid with the only code being the evap system even after paying a shop to run the smoke test. I replaced the canister vent valve solenoid.. been on for years after 15 years of driving my truck. The purge valve was easy & cheep to replace.. fixed problem with truck struggling to start after putting in gas.. Don't buy aftermarket sensors right? OEM only? Any more cheap & easy fixes/ preventive maintenance on sensors? Damn electronics...
N - This video may help with the power loss you're seeing: ruclips.net/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/видео.html
I have a 2016 Nissan Altima. When i go to hit the pedal to accelerate the car, it takes its time. When my RPM goes up to 3, it bucks, and jerks. Or, when i go pass the 40 MPH mark, it starts to hesitate and jerk. I was told by the Nissan dealership that it was my transmission going out. 😢
M - Unfortunately, this is possible. Are you getting any engine codes?
Great video ! Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge .
K - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
The accelerator pedal position sensor and the tps have similar symptoms, however you mentioned in another video that the app sensor could put the car in limp mode but not the tps. The problem with my 2008 mustang gt is that a lot of times it wont set obvious mil codes.
J - Fortunately, both sensors are relatively cheap if that's what you think it could be.
I was driving my 2013 Chevrolet Impala with the big 3.6L, got up to about 45 mph but the car would not shift into gear. The engine revved up to 7k rpm with about 30% of throttle and would hesitate to rev down even when not using the accelerator, normally it takes about 75% throttle or more to rev the engine up to red line. I stopped and cycled the ignition but it didn't help much. It didn't happen again but I noticed that shift points were off, a slight hesitation and shudder before shifting into gear. I also somewhat have a rough idle but the engine doesn't chop, sort of vibrates like it had bad mounts when starting up on a cold engine. No codes whatsoever, at least not on the dashboard, so I have to find my OBDII scanner to see if any are saved. I've been having shifting problems since 2018 at 86k miles, but nothing strange like that ever happened before.
A - That would be our first step too. Let us know if you get any engine codes and we'll see what we can do to help.
@@8020Media No current codes at all, and there are only two history codes; P0877, P0989: transmission fluid pressure sensor/switch "D" and "E" circuit low. I always thought that was the reason for the transmission having a rough shift into gear.
Another thing I noticed is that the fuel rail fluctuates between 1.5-2.5 psi with the key on engine off, pump was near 50 psi with consistent pressure and the rail was primed at 45 psi but kept moving up and down. I have a small fuel leak somewhere in the engine bay so that might be the problem.
I also seen that my throttle position is at 33% with the engine off, and I've read that most throttle-by-wire cars are less but I'm not sure what it's supposed to be for mine. I'm also not sure if it has a limit when the engine is off because I'd only seen it open to 45% even with the pedal all the way down.
A - Keep us updated!
@@8020Media I visited a shop to see what they could find and they said that the shift timing is normal, but all the issues I had were likely due to a bad wheel bearing, I assume it was a broken magnetic ring for the speed sensor. Only made a few trips so far and it hasn't acted funny yet, just seems a little more hesitant or unsure of what to do after I let off the accelerator than before. Might be a separate issue.
A - Interesting. Keep us updated!
Very insightful information. Thank you!
S - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helps.
I removed my throttle body on my 2018 Ram 1500 3.6 L Cleaned it with CRC throttle body cleaner. Did the relearn key in on position gas pedal to the floor for 15 seconds. I drive on the highway 5 days a week, 80 mph no issues. But since I have done this once in awhile when I'm at a traffic light or in the morning when I first start the truck the throttle body Acts up
C - Interesting. Are you getting any engine codes?
@8020Media after i cleaned my tb it won't start. I have a 2003 3.8 chevy impala and it turns over but won't stay running with or without pressing the gas pedal. I'm lost. I've changed all the sensors on the tb. They meaning chevy discontinued this tb😢i give up
I am sorry , but my 2002 Ranger still has a throttle cable . I think you meant sometime in the early 2000s and after that most vehicles didn't have cables anymore . Depending on make and model of course . I don't think very many , if any started not using cables in the 80s or even 90s . Thanks
A - Thanks for sharing this insight!
Very helpful. Thank you!
R - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Thanks for posting this information.
E - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it's helpful.
Hi.
Get all the symptoms you mentioned at beginning of video. Honda jazz 2009 hatchback 1.2. Petrol 5 speed 4 spark plugs only. NB NO SENSOR CODES. NO ENGINE CODES. BUT VEHICLE IDLE BIT ERRATIC, DEFINITELY JERKY/HESITANT, SOMETIMES STALLING, VEHICLE TAKES LONG TIME TO PICK UP SPEED AFTER JERK AND HAPPENS EVERY TIME SELECTING GEARS TO HIGHER RATIO. FONE FULL SERVHCE. CHANGED PLUGS WITH HONDA EXPENSIVE PLUGS, OIL AND AIR FILTETS REPLACED, OIL CHANGED, CHANGED TRANSMISSION OIL FULLY AN REPLACED THE SPECIALIST WASHERS. EXHAUST HAS NO LEAKS.
PETROL FLOW PRESSURE?
COLLAPSED CATALYTIC FRAME IN CATALYTIC CONVERTOR? FUEL PUMP? BUILT IN FUEL FILTER? Mechanic cleaned egr valve, cleaned air map sensor, cleaned mass airflow sensor. Checked wires none loose or faulty. THROTTLE BODY NOT YET STRIPPED AND CLEANED.
PLEASE CAN YOU ADVISE? mileage on honda 178000.Goes fine otherwise apart from annoying jerking. 4 new tyres fitted 3 weeks ago. Clutch not faulty apparently.
PLEASE ADVISE.
YHANK YOU.
Martin martinbfbf@gmail.com
Buy American
Amazing insightful video thank you
S - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Will a throttle body cause a miss until the engine worms up? Changed colls spark plugs and wires .runs normal when worm.when it's cold same thing thing don't have a code reader. 2007 Chev uplander
C - It's possible.. But without an engine code, it'll be more difficult to diagnose.
Thank you for the video. I found it to be much more to my liking than any AI gibberish.
U - Thanks for the feedback! We pride ourselves on not using AI for any parts of our videos.
94 Lexus ES300 V6, engine stalls 50 180 seconds after car starts(maybe coolant sensor? as car heats up?),, but i will look at throttle and idle areas to see if grimed up, only 47K miles, at stop light i have to put it into low gear(automatic tx) as first gear slips in Drive, the only code i have is the Shift solenoid "A" electrical code. I have been getting by since august 2023 shortly after i bought it so i am hoping the issue is fuel,air, spark, sensors and not tranny, what do u think? Wish u were near greensboro nc, i like your slow logic based explanations!
G - We've got some other videos we think may be helpful here: ruclips.net/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/видео.html
Have you had it looked at since August of 2023?
I think if I get this code, I'll just replace the throttle body. It's not expensive and my time is too valuable to be doing all of these steps.
C - To each their own. We make these videos to inform. The viewer can take it how they wish.
The throttle body only comes with the throttle body sensor an at auto parts they want almost 300.
New to all this mechanic stuff but what would I need to buy to replace the throttle body
S - What vehicle do you have?
@8020Media dont worry bro. Your videos help people that guy is a douche
Very helpful video
S - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Great informative videos, well worth watching.
K - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
Perfect, Thank you very much.
P - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
What causes code P2119 on a 2017 ford explorer? Check engine light is on & when you go to accelerate often pulling out its like something is slipping but usually just on taking off
J - This points to an issue with the he throttle body, throttle position sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor, or throttle actuator control motor could be defective.
What if i dont have codes? My car has a sluggish response to throttle
N - This video may be helpful here: ruclips.net/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/видео.html
I had my traction control module repaired on my C5 Z06 and everything seemed fine for while then I punched it one day and everything went south the reduced power light came on and the check engine lights and the traction control light 💡 I was able to get it home I did the onboard diagnostic check and codes P0120 and 2135 appeared and a few others I was able to clear the other codes, but not these codes I replaced throttle body in the car runs really weird. The RPMs are up so I’m kind of leaning towards. Accelerator pedal sensor your thoughts?
R - I think your diagnosis is spot on. Look into the sensor and keep us updated.
I have a nissan 08 Altima 2.5 My issue with it is that when l stop, then the car won't go only goes to 10mph for about 5 to 10 seconds and then it starts picking up the speed, it doesn't happen all the time, maybe 2 times a week, and l don't get any faulty codes.
R - This video could be helpful: ruclips.net/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/видео.html
The TPS on a 2003 Dodge ram 1500 is under the battery box and it's a bugger to replace
J - Thanks for sharing this info! Will certainly be helpful for others with this engine/vehicle.
I have a 2014 Kia Soul+ 2.0. It has every single symptom described here except the stalling and CEL. It jerks when accelerating between 35-45 mph. It won't accelerate past 60. Starting around 40-45, it doesn't want to shift unless i let up on the accelerator. It idles rough. At this point, I've changed: plugs, coils, pcv valve, MAF sensor, upstream o2 sensor., oil & filter, have run a fuel system cleaner through on 3 consecutive fill ups. Even switched to exclusively use Top Tier member fuel. Is it possible for the TPS to fail without initiating a code/ illuminating CEL?
End up finding anything out? Sounds like what my mustangs doing
I need some major advice on my mustang having issues with dying and rough idle
V - We have great videos that may assist here: ruclips.net/video/BiYsqRJCLhE/видео.html
Hi 8020 media. I have a problem with my 03 Ford Lightning truck. Ive asked around everywhere and nobody can give me an answer. My truck has lost power and wasting too much gas. I did the test on my mass air flow sensor where you have the vehicle on and you unplug the MAF sensor and if your vehicle turns off, its good but if it stays on, the MAF sensor is bad. Well mine stays on so i think its bad. But then i came across this video and think it might be the TPS. Im gonna try to clean it first but if it doesnt work then ill just change to a new TPS.
My truck idling is rough like it shakes like it would be running on 6 to 7 spark plugs when it has 8 spark plugs. I bought all eight spark plugs new and installed them so i know its not the spark plugs.
I have a K&N high flow air intake and tried to just swap out the MAF sensor but cant find a way to remove it, like its stuck and not meant to change. Do you know if i can change out the MAF sensor only on K&N filters? Because i would hate to have to buy the whole Air Intake set again which costs $350. Any info helps, thank you.
C - First step would be to check for engine codes in hopes in points you in the right direction. Do you have any engine codes?
How about cutting off and the seeing the little car withe the locking symbol? I had brought a new throttle body for 05 Chevy trailblazer extended LS , I hope this works
M - Do you have any engine codes? Keep us updated.
Hopefully you answer this comment!!! My didge caravan 2010 is throwing a oxygen sensor code p0038 the pedal doesn't accelerate when in park and doesn't go faster than mph in drive (limp mode) i say the o2 sensor is the reason for all of this my husband is stuck on the pedal issues
H - Definitely sounds like an o2 sensor issue to us. We have a full video on oxygen sensors that we think may be helpful: ruclips.net/video/hpqXLGAE4Xo/видео.html
@@8020Media thank you so much
H - Keep us updated.
My 2017 Jeep wranglers absolute and relitive throttle position sensors are always at 0% when looking at the live data. Error codes p0122 and p2135. Help
S - May be worth looking into the sensor or throttle body. Have you taken it to a shop?
I have an old 2003 Mitsubishi galant 2.4l, 235k miles. Their known for rough idles, yet no one per the forums in the past 20 years have pin pointed the actual cause. I myself have cleaned the front of the TB plate and inside with carb cleaner. I then have to reset the car in order to erase the auto tune of it adapting to the build up of gunk. It will run smoother for a little while but not 100% smooth then go back to rougher idles. Its started to idle real high before warming up, and even when it lowers the rpms to a more suitable level (starts around 2k rpm, eventually lowers to 1.5 or 1k rpm. When i first cleaned it it went from the rough 1k rpm to about 750 rpm which was smoother. Sometimes time it will drop to about 500 about the first 15 mins of running after warming up at idle in Drive and sometimes stalls out. Do you suggest cleaning the TB and TBS sensor better or start looking into the idle control senseor. Once it gets running it runs fine until more recently it hasnt wanted to slow the rpms down adequately when im slowing down, to the point when im almost or at a dead stop the rpms are still pushing 1500 trying to push against the brakes. One morning the rpms were jumping up and down as i was easing off the gas to slow or stop.
C - Sorry to hear this.. Are you getting a check engine light or any engine codes?
Buick 2007 3.5 stalls coming to stop or letting off the gas pedal. I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF with the correct cleaner. Not throwing any codes.
C - We have a video that may be helpful here: ruclips.net/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/видео.html
good video,,, thanks for the info
V - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it is helpful.
I used an obd2 with live data. I was able to check the gas peddle sensor and throttle position. On the data when I press the gas peddle I saw it move on live data and the throttle position didn't move on live data. I'm replacing the throttle body sense the throttle position sensor is part of the assembly and not able to replace separately. I used the Blue Driver OBD2 scanner.
C - Nice! Thanks for sharing. Keep us updated!
@@conanharris3472 Yes, I heard that the Throttle position sensor was not expensive . But when I call the auto parts store it was almost $200!!! Unreal ripoff
Great video, ty
B - Thanks for the feedback! We hope you found it helpful.
I have a 2008 jeep wrangler that won't turn over to start has a throttle body light is this probably a bad throttle body?
D - What engine codes are you getting?
Will that make the idle real high when I first start it then drive it for a couple miles and the idle goes normal
M - Possible!
If the engine runs at 1,500 rpm or less upon startup, that's normal. The fact your idle settles down shortly after driving is normal operation.
I have an intermittent issue with the 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo seemingly losing the information from the computer on how the throttle should be working. It would not idle until we ran it, keeping it at 4000 rpm and above for about 15-20min and then it would idle and drive again.
T - Sorry to hear this.. Are you getting any check engine lights or engine codes?
Cool video brother ! my eos starts and dies starts and dies gonna use some of your knowledge and check some shit cheers
S - Thanks for the feedback!
Great info
A - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it was helpful.
I have a 2005 titan my trucks been driving like crap for 2 years now brought it to multiple mechanics nobody can tell me what's wrong it feels like it onky has half the power it used to almost like im driving threw a puddle or pulling something it's not limp nod cuase I can get up to w.e speed I want but 99% of the time it drives slowish and every once in a blue moon it's fast and drives great I've beeb told it's not the fuel pump not clogged cats I've replaced the maf sensor intake filter plugs and coils and a bunch of other stuff I have 0 codes idk what todo can it be the throttle position sensor ?
J - Sorry to hear about this.. We have a video about losing power that may help with diagnosis: ruclips.net/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/видео.html
Have you tried replace the pcv valve? Also clean throttle or replace idle air control Valve? Also try clean injectors.
I'm going to assume you have at least 150,000 miles on the vehicle seeing how old it is, so, if you've never replaced the TPS or MAP, I'd start there, it's about time for either or both of those to fail and you'll likely be replacing them soon anyways. O2 sensors will probably soon follow. Hope this helps.
K - Thanks for taking the time to help out viewers. Great advice.
L
Been having trouble with my wifes 2012 malibu i jus bought a new throttle body hopefully it fixes. I already replaced the maf, map, crank, and front cam shaft sensors and still shows the esc light and traction control light. My next step is to replace gas pedal sensor😔
It drives a few miles and the service esc light comes on and car starts bogging down and turns off, wont pass 25 mph while driving.
H - Do you have any engine codes?
Check all ground wires.
Thank you very.helpful
A - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
Really great video thank you!
Q: Is there a case where a car has no any accelaration pedal sensor on gas pedal? I have an i30 Hyundai 2008 1,4 and i can not find this out.
Certainly, from a quick search it seems like the I30 uses a cable-operated throttle control system so it wouldn't have an accelerator pedal position sensor.
@@8020Media Thank you very much! Really appreciate ☺
So do you believe that there is a way where i could make the gas pedal more sensitive as it's a little bit lazy right now. Don't know if throttle sensor could change the overall exprerience.
S - No problem! The throttle sensor could certainly change the overall experience. Keep us updated.
My Nissan Nerva 2000, started dropping its idle slowly over a cupule of days to a point where i had turn up the idle screw back up to 700 RPM, when the car is warmed up after driving for about 20 minuet's it would give a bit of a misfire while siting at a red light but then come good on acceleration, it only happens when the car is warmed right up..? No vacuum leaks, Throttle body is clean, Could it be the idle air control valve..? Or a faulty TPS..? My car has a 14 pin port, I've been to three mechanics for a diagnostics test and they don't have the right scan tool for my year model, And it never fails when a mechanic takes the car for a test drive, Well the bloody thing doesn't miss a beat. I guess I will have to try changing both.. Also no engine check light comes up on the dashboard..
S- Sorry to hear about this. We have a ton of DIY content that could help your research here: ruclips.net/p/PLiX521qA-UEQrLY1ZRDnLP37yCDCcvQCV
Ive got a 2008 chevy impala LT its only having rpm slips on take off at red lights about 20 mins into starting to ive been seeing alot comments of sensor issues going into the shop tomorrow going to get it scanned hopefully we get this fixed so i can ride off into the sunset tmm
V - Keep us updated!
2018 Kia Optima EX get Check Engine light (on/off) with P0010, and P0011 code. Hi idle at 1.5-2.0 after replacing, Fuel Pump, Intake Valve, and CAM sensor... What else could it be
A - Have you taken it to a shop and they suggested replacing those?
Excellent
J - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helped.
I am trying to remove PS pump. Can't get at bolts. It is absolutely ridiculous. I will never purchase a Nissan car again!
D - Sorry to hear! Hope you get it resolved.
I just replaced front and rear valve cover gaskets and intake plentium gasket on a Nissan. I swear I’m never working on a Nissan again.
My C5 Z06 my reduced power flash and then I turn the car off and it will not start it just turns over. I noticed the car kinda running a little bit funny just before everything went south, any thoughts
R - Any check engine lights or engine codes?
Mine did the exact same thing before this incident happened I ended up sending my traction control module to get repaired and reinstalled it and everything was fine codes went away and this last incident is where I at now
Good video
F - Thanks for the feedback!
Older cable controlled systems also use tps
R - Well said.
Could the throttle positioning sensor make the car stall and not start again? Also the VVT?
D - We have a video about stalling that may be a good resource for you: ruclips.net/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/видео.html
Hi I have the jerky and hesitant acceleration with also not reving all the way, but can it also cause RPM to get stuck? When that happens I flip gas pedal and it gets unstuck.
Check your throttle body to start, it could be sticking or something like that - especially if your car doesn't have electronic throttle control.
My ford flex jerky an bucking why acceleration
What do I use to clean the TPS? I have taken my Sentra back and forward to Nissan 10x for the same code: p0101, MAF sensor, to firestone, to Midas, and an off brand mechanic same code. Today, Nissan says they're going to try 2 replace TPS for $1787.00, are they CRAZY!! I'll try what you have suggested first by cleaning it or replacing it. Thank you.
V - Sorry to hear this... $1,700 is crazy. There is Throttle Body cleaner that'll do the trick!
I have had my jeep in the shop 5xs now because of the throttle body. The sensor has been replaced, the wiring harness, and the throttle body itself 2xs now, and also had to have the sensor reset. It is still acting up. The light, along with the check engine, is back on. Body shop is saying I will need to pay for a factory throttle body instead of the aftermarket I have had. I have no faith in them at this point. 2017 Jeep Patriot Sport.
Any suggestions? My brother said replace the pedal
A - What engine codes are you getting?
@@8020Media p2135
A - Could be the pedal or the pedal position sensor. Have you tried those?
Thanks 👍🙏💯😊
D - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
2017 Ford transit, I had a bad throttle body with code which I replaced and reprogrammed by driving the van for 20 minutes to learn my driving, 6 months later now when I deaccelerate and using the brakes to stop when speedometer reaches about 30 mph before stopping the rpm shoots to 4000 rpm then it comes down, no codes at all and it does not happens everytime just randomly, I don't have any jerking or any accelerating problem at all , any thoughts appreciated thx
P - Sounds like potential engine surging.
I've been dealing with throttle control code on my 2007 Honda. We've replace the throttle body and the pedal sensor assemblies with no change. There doesn't seem to be a wiring fault. I've isolated that the issue could be a relay associated with the circuitry of the electronic throttle control unit. Do you think a relay might also be a possibility?
C - It certainly could be a relay. Do you have any engine codes?
@@8020Media Thanks for the reply. Yes. Initially I had a simple P0507 (Idel Air Control Systme, RPM higher than expected). After eliminating the possibility of a vacuum leak the symptoms continued and I ended up seeing a P2101 (Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance). The repair shop is insisting that because the throttle body was not OEM Honda, it could still be a bad throttle body, however, I have noted that there is a Throttle Conrol Relay that could be the culprit.
C - That certainly could be the culprit! Any update here?
Thanks.
T - Thanks for the feedback!
I have a 2010 jeep wrangler - with a flashing red throttle warning light . No check engine light is on - how do I get the code ??? Thanks
F - There's definitely an issue with the throttle body. Could be stuck or dirty.
I have a 2016 Jeep Cherokee 3.2l Trailhawk. I’ve replaced the throttle body, the mass air flow temp sensor and the accelerator pedal with sensor. After each replacement of each part, the red lightening bolt indicator would return. Some drives it wouldn’t happen, but most times I take it out, it pops back up on my dash board. Is there something that I’m missing as to why this keeps happening?
M - Are you getting any engine codes?
@@8020Media I don’t have any engine codes. It’s just random that the service electronic speed control indicator pops on. Usually at lower speeds. Some times it does and some times it doesn’t. Like I said, it’s just random. New filter, new throttle body, new accelerator pedal position switch, new mass air flow temp meter.
M - Possible that it is a sensor going bad sense it sounds like it is intermittent..
@@8020Media I’m gonna have to take it somewhere and get it scanned. I’m
Just worried they won’t see something and I’ll have to pay and then it’ll come back on as I leave. Never fails.
@@8020Media so I’ve been messing around with my JScan tool and I keep getting this code. Says “active” C10D0. Something about electric
park brake failure. I guess there is a sensor that bad there. My epb works fine though and I don’t get any check engine lights or anything telling me there is something wrong. Can this be tied into this “service electronic throttle control” issue?
Hello bro, i have a 2015 genesis coupe and in the last week the abs and antislide light came on and p0123,p0222,p2105,p2106, p2110, p2159 and p0507...i ve clean all sensor and remove the tb controller i had on my gaz pedal but didnt change anything...and my car is not as nervous as it is supposed to be and dont shift at normal rpm but randomly...i ve think about the tbs, the app or pcm...but with those codes what ull look first?
P - Easiest first is what we always go by.
What would be the problem p2173 ? On jeep 2008 wrangler rubicon 3.8l where should I start
L - Throttle body.
Digital Throttles started coming in the 2000s. 90s OBD1 and OBD2 will probably have a mechanical throttle; I don't know what this guy is talking about in the beginning with digital throttles starting inthe 1980s (for your consumer grade car?) -- I don't know -- maybe he's talking about foreign vehicles or NASCAR or funny cars. Mechanical throttle body is basically a potentiometer||[ resistor ]||[volume knob like on your radio] that monitors the position of the throttle and tells the computer the location|position of the throttle. When the TPS goes bad, the computer makes stupid decisions and stuff shifts wrong and the motor and transmission will screw up. Back-probe test the signal to see if the resistance is moving with the throttle -- if not then its screwed up. Replace it or fix|clean it. You usually replace it. Digital Throttles means all of that is happening on a chip (at the microscopic level); digital throttles are in the new cars and they're a piece of crap. Good luck - because you're going to need to get a computer that can talk to the vehicle's computer to see the digital signals for what is wrong with it. This is why DIYer buy Chevrolet because the fixing is open sourced kind of. Ford and other brands are proprietary and you have to buy in to getting the equipment (or reverse engineer that stuff yourself).
Don't go throwing parts at the problem in hopes that it'll be fixed.
C - Thanks for the insight.
Thanks 🙌
A - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
i am getting a P0068 could this be what you mentioned in this video
O - This points us to your injectors. Some could be clogged.
@@8020Media I did have actually a clean of the fuel system I had this done last year. I did replace my air filter and now I'm not getting the code. The air filter seemed to be clogged.
O - Nice! Glad you found the issue. Thanks for sharing your experience. This will certainly help future viewers.
@@8020Media always happy to help
What if I'm experiencing these types of symptoms but I'm not getting a check engine light?
L - It is still possible that you're engine is storing some codes, just not giving a CEL. Do you have a code reader?
@@8020Media Thank you for responding...yes I have a simple small one and after scanning it 2-3 times just to be sure, it didn't throw any codes nor did it have any stored codes or pending codes. Also I might add, this is a 2013 Tahoe that I just bought about a month ago so I don't know how it was treated before. I took a look at the throttle body and when I lifted the flap I could see it was really dirty inside the throttle body and the intake manifold. Could it just need to be cleaned and the TPS is probably still good being that I'm not getting a check engine light or any codes?
L - This is definitely a possibility! Keep us updated.
@@8020Media ok so I cleaned the throttle body and the inside of the intake really good and had very little improvement. So then I went ahead and changed the TPS with the battery disconnected for a sure restart if the throttle body position, and then did a reprogramming on the sensor. It seems to be doing a lot better, not 100 percent yet bcuz it needs to be driven a little so the computer can also relearn, and relearn according to the way I drive. To sum it up I guess sometimes you won't get a check engine light for this problem. And I do know that the engine light itself does work, I purposely make it come on to check it. Thanks for your help, and glad to offer feed back 👍
L - Thanks for sharing! Glad we could help here.
I need help please. I had a braekswitch problem. Replaced the braek switch. After replacing it my Polo 9N dont want to accelerate
H - Are you getting any engine codes?
HI, I have 2009 Camry le 4. Cylinder, the problem is it’s feel like chocking when accelerating then it opens up , what do you thing the problem is also where is the location of the map sensor.
Thank you
G - Are you getting any engine codes?
@@8020Media not at all
G - It's more likely to be fueling related, ignition related, or a filter being clogged.
@@8020Media thank you , i will work on it.
i am going to use red line complete fuel system cleaner o see if it will help first.
2008 Ford Edge - 3 times in the past 2 months I’ve been driving and after 20 minutes or so I feel a bit of a slip, can’t accelerate and the wrench light comes on. Check engine light does not come on. When I pull over and restart it seems fine. However the last time I restarted there was a very big clunk. I’ve taken it to the garage twice; first time they said without the codes they can’t tell and to come right when it happens but I have to restart to be able to drive it and the codes get wiped. The last time they were able to see a code but didn’t write it down when they went back to look again it was gone but he said it was a transmission code. With the age of the vehicle I don’t want to put much money in. Do you think I should take it to a transmission shop before changing throttle body to see if they find something? Thank you (female wanting to be educated while dealing with garages 😊)
K - That's how it always happens, isn't it?! haha. We feel your pain. Definitely something wrong with the powertrain.. Do you have an OBD scanner?
@@8020Media Thank you for responding. I do not have a scanner. I thought the mechanics would have been able to pull up codes. I didn't know they weren't stored.
K - Sometimes even without a check engine light, codes can still be stored. Typically this is the best way to diagnose because it points you in the right direction versus throwing money at guesses..
@@8020Media The last garage visit they said there wasn’t a code showing. You mentioned an obd scanner. I looked it up and see it’s pretty inexpensive so I’m going to get one as see if I can find anything. Thanks for the idea.
K - It's the best way to self-diagnose vehicle problems. Keep us updated!
I do have the simptoms without the faultcode on my Mercedes W164. Any ideas?
A - It doesn't always show fault codes. Are there any other engine codes showing?
Is it possible to get no error codes when this issue occur. I have same symptoms with my car, but diagnostics does not show anything at all and there is no warnings on dashboard. I was driving the car, at one point I have put my foot off the gas paddle to slow down and then put my foot on the gas paddle again, just a little bit and noticed it does not accelerate like it works on 2 or 3 cylinders or like its stuck in higher gear. But it did not. When I stopped on red light it barely moves and. It also rough idles. We have already checked injectors and camshaft, everything works perfect. For Injector we basically replaced the ones we suspected to be bad.
I have 1.6 hdi Peugeot 508 88kw 2017
M - It certainly can happen.
On my van the check engine light didn't come on. I used a higher end scanner and found the codes. Used live data to find out the throttle body wasn't reacting with the peddle.
C - Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and help out other viewers.
@@8020Media It was ECU on mine. They have been checking every single part on the car for two months and at the end it turned out to be ECU. Even more, guy told me that its always more likely that its ECU than anything else. WTF
M - Thanks for sharing your experience. This may help future viewers!
Got no codes on my 2009 Pontiac g8 GT and I can’t drive over 4000rpms. Crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, all new. I don’t understand.
K - This video may be helpful with your research: ruclips.net/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/видео.html
any advice on a related error The P2100 code definition is “Throttle Actuator 'A' Control Motor Circuit/Open? What's the meainng of "open"? What does it mean that the circuit is "open"?
L - It's more than likely pointing to your throttle body.
@@8020Media So it's not the electrical circuit that is "open" but the throttle flap (or at least the sensor indicates that the flap is open i guess) thanks :)
L - Keep us updated.
My 99 Silverado has the old cable with the TPS sensor. Truck starts but you have to give it a little gas in order for it to not shut off. Got the P0121 Code idk if that could be the cause for it to not wanna stay running after start up
J - The TPS can certainly cause this code and symptoms.
Here because I need help lol😭 so my 17 Toyota Corolla is vibrating when my RPM drops to 500 when at a stop also my car squeaks when I release from my brakes. I got a diagnostic done and everything is fine, I got spark plugs and fuel kit done and still does it.😭😭 Also they looked at my brakes and rotors and they said they’re also fine. Idk what to do:)
D - Sounds like you may be experiencing a rough idle. This video may help with your research: ruclips.net/video/BiYsqRJCLhE/видео.html
What if u having lightning bolt on dash blinking with drift,awd and check engine light?
L - Do you happen to have a way to retrieve engine codes?
My 05 lexus rx330. Driving on the hwy @ 45mph, I stepped on the gas pedal to quickly accelerate too pass another car. The car jerked & the engine, vsr, track off light all came on. The gas pedal felt dead, the car was slowing down, could not accelerate. I had to pulled over & stop, turned off the car. I waited a few minutes started up & drove back on the hwy. My car came back to drive normal but the engine lights were still on. I drove home. Obd code P2112???? It said throttle body stuck. So is it the throttle body sensor or gas pedal sensor or both?
U - You may need to change the throttle body.
@@8020Mediathanks, I ordered the throttle body position sensor oem (aisin) & oem lexus/toyota accelerator pedal position sensor. 👍
U - Keep us updated here!
What if you aren’t getting any codes?
B - Are you experiencing the same symptoms?
Can it be faulty without showing a code?
C - It can, but unlikely.
I just threw a P2135 code on my 06 G35. The car would barely move, then take off. Luckily I was down the street from home and was able to limp it home 🤦
B - Keep us updated here.
What if you get no coat at all and I have no check engine light on, but I’m gettingthese symptoms
D - If the sensor isn't expensive for your vehicle, you can try to replace it and go from there. But we wouldn't go throwing money out at parts without engine codes. What symptoms are you getting exactly?
@@8020Media hesitation at mid speed. Press the throttle no power then it takes off very rarely, but once in a while, it will stall when I come to a stop, but very rarely
D - We have some videos that may help you out here: ruclips.net/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/видео.html
What if my truck doesn't throw any codes? 2000 ford excursion v10
E - What symptoms are you experiencing?
@8020Media my truck struggles to accelerate like it's rpm is stuck and if I let off the gas and press on it again it will accelerate..... all this happens after the car is warmed up like 30 minutes or so of driving but before that it's fine
E - This video may be helpful here: ruclips.net/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/видео.html
Im not getting any error and my car when started is perfect but when i move the car a bit and press clutch to change gears my car rpm goes ro 2 - 2.5 and then it doesn't goes down until i leave the clutch or press acc slightly then rpm drops down to normal , it all started when i serviced my throttle body and tps
A - Are you getting any engine codes?
@@8020Media nothing at all , once i got knock sensor error which got cleared when i replaced its wiring as it was a bit damaged
A - Are you still experiencing those symptoms?
That affect the transmission O.D.
J - What?
Could it cause a car to fail, and not start?? That's what happened to me
C - Definitely possible. Are you getting any engine codes?
@@8020Media It's iffy and my scanner is super cheap. Something like PO25
@@8020Media And the auto parts store quoted me at $180 for the Throttle position sensor!!! Ridiculous