Yes i mean recently i ve got a P1401 on honda accord 2005 ictdi 2.2, and after ive cleaned the egr valve (it was closed), the check engine light turned off. But the car is extremely slow i can't go up hells more than 1st gear (No check Engine light) Could it be a stuck open egr valve? Or bad injectors ? Still i ve tested the 4 injectors they were getting much more returns yet, the engine was so powerful. The problem occured only after egr valve cleaning
Your content offers great value, As a 70 yrs grandma I feel more confident after watching your video; It is honest thorough and to the point. Well done young man, I wish you great success in life and I send you many blessings.
Trying to find an available mechanic to diagnose this issue has been difficult for me so this was a huge help in pointing me in the right direction! Thank you so much for the thorough and well explained video!
Excellent video . My profession is not mechanic, but I did study mechanics in high-school. However I do basic repairs at home unless heavy machinery, welding, lifting car involved, then I take it to a shop. My Toyota SUV lately wasn’t even starting for a few days. I decided that I would fix it myself no matter what. It was just replacing air filter, cleaning MSF sensor, cleaning throttle body, then I started the car with starter fluid, and the magic worked . Now I’m driving it agin. It cost me only to buy MAF sensor cleaner, throttle body cleaner, air filter. Basically a part of the list you have in this awesome video. Guys you can do it yourself and avoid hefty mechanics $s . We appreciate these kind of videos. It really helps DIY.
Jake I have watched a lot of videos and this is the first comment I have made on you tube...This explained so well the breakdown of problems that it could be I think I might just be able to run it down. Thanks for your time ,effort and patience
I am 73 widower. I will sure try and follow your instruction first. Cannot afford to pay high dollars to fix my 2012 Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl. Thank you so much for your information. Have a blessed day!! So far I have learned to clean my throttle Body. 😂 ❤
My car is experiencing both inconsistent idling,& loss of power. Your video will certainly point me in the right direction to help find the cause of this problem...Thankyou! 🚘🔧
Thank you SOOO MUCH for this amazing detailed video. I just spent $2500 trying to figure out why my car has trouble accelerating & was squeaking. I've changed AC clutch, alternator, pulleys, changed fuel injector, oil change, you name it..yet still have extreme vibration, fuel burning smell, squeaking (the volume has reduced though) and horrible acceleration especially on incline. RPM seems to have trouble going below 2 and seems to run faster overall. I've brought it to my dealership & another mechanic. Dealership gave me a quote for 3000 worth of additional fixes but said they "didn't feel anything wrong with my car" Other mechanic says he will have to start taking apart my engine which is super costly. I'm so confused on who to turn to & so drained mentally & financially from this
Melissa - So sorry to hear about this. We have a plethora of DIY videos on our channel that we think would be helpful. Based on the symptoms you are experiencing, we think this would be the best place to start: ruclips.net/video/BiYsqRJCLhE/видео.html Keep us posted on this!
Im so thankful for this video. Im having this issue and the mechanic cant find a problem. I was thinking i need to trade the car in. Im inspired to keep troubleshooting. Air filter and spark plugs have been changed. Cant get appt to dealerfoir a month. Excellent video!!
Wonderfully comprehendible and instrumental in helping me to draw up a history and sequence of events leading to my acceleration and rough idling issues! My mechanic will be thrilled when I bring the car in, as I am! Thank you!
Jake, excellent presentation. This is one of the most wonderful and best presentation I ever heard on auto issues. My issue, will accelerate to 2000 RPM. Then when I floor it engine bog's down. When I let up on the gas pedal half way, engine accelerates and takes off as long as I keep her around 2000 RPM. No miss firers. New plugs, coils and wires. New fuel pump. Getting Codes P0171 & P0174. 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4L, 130k miles.
R - Thanks for the feedback! Those codes indicate a lean condition, which leads us to check these things: MAF sensor, vacuum leaks, fuel pressure, O2 sensors, and fuel injectors.
Bro thank you for this video! This video was explained very well for me to understand. Now all I gotta do is follow the steps one step at a time and I can now work around and see what I gotta do now to better help my acceleration problem. Thank you !
@@8020Media well I tried cleaning my air filter and it was going good until I ripped a whole into it😂 so I just went to autozone and got a new one and I also don’t have a MAF sensor so I guess I’m already going down the list quickly 😂
I’m getting all this and no fault codes after changing my engine oil on my 2010 Tundra. I’ve also had a fuel tank problem in the past. Mice chewing on stuff. I changed out the tank with a used tank. I never change the fuel pump…. Then a few months later I’ve had leaks on top of the fuel tank, loose clip. That was fixed twice. Now it just running like crap, rumbling, the oil pressure gauge gets real high, when I accelerate. I’ve changed the fuel cap, oil sensor unit, fuel valve….nothing. I’m going to walk through these steps you gave us.
God bless these videos I'm a female with health issues and most macanic don't have compassion they lie so u can pay more I'm learning sooooo much God bless the men in these videos ❤️🌈❤️
As a female I’m fed up of the long winded sales talk and super costly long list always handed to me by the dealer. (Honda) Fast forward found a great local mechanic - so far he’s always been open and honest. E.G what I definitely don’t need done and why I don’t need it!- btw he’s reading Hondas long list. Presently I am experiencing an issue with acceleration at stop lights! No problem on long hauls - highway drives! I’m the curious one, so going to attempt to figure this out myself. Super happy I found your video, it is concise, detailed. Very ABC. Lastly Ty for the engine codes. 👍👍👍👏👏
Good job and extremely thorough. I would like to see a version of this which uses common English for those of us, like me, who don't speak car tech. And maybe divide it with markers that help us see where the info we want is located.
Excellent presentation this is one of the most wonderful presentation I ever heard on RUclips over the years in such a simple and unique manner. Great Job done sir as this information is very much helpful to me as my friend Noah have the very same problem.
You are an excellent teacher. This video is explained in detail where it is easily understood. I love it! I’ll be telling all my friends and family about your channel. You’re da best! I’m subscribing after this comment. Thank you so much 🥰👍😁👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾🫶🏽
I wish u lived right around the corner from me I would be at your house everyday. Best explanation and great advice. Keep up the great work u are going to help alot of people out here.
A fantastic explanation. I like the fact that these basics faults can be almost illuminated in part by making sure you do basic yearly service; replace oil & filter and fuel treatment and new fuel filters too. Also replace air filter, MAS/MAF sensors , clean EGR and supporting pipes every year. Regular maintenance of your vehicle will take many of these faults away 🤔
A gasoline direct injection (GDI) fuel pump can operate at pressures ranging from 500-2,900 pounds per square inch (PSI). The fuel rail pressure in a GDI system typically ranges from 300 PSI at idle to 2,200 PSI at full load.
I can't believe how this man is explaining in detail I went to another side while ago he was trying to ask the question and he wanted me to pay $5 to join their site or whatever just to find out the answer and this man is explaining detail I'm going to start my fuel filter cuz I already checked the injectors and a coil packs I just don't understand
@@thomasquinn5537 thank you I still haven't figured it out yet.lol but do you think if the battery ends are lose could that cause it I just found out that they are lose and I am going to tighten them up today when I get off work.but I appreciate your feedback I am going to have it put on code reader today when I get to my son's house he has one
Mornin Jake, James here & im having an accelerating issue with my 1984 chevy S-10 pickup 2.8 ltr engine. truck has Mega miles on it. had a rebuilt motor gone through & placed in the truck about 4 to 5 years ago. theres not any sensors or computer on this truck & ive already replaced all of the ignition components including distributer . ove checked the timing with a timing light & we4e good there too as well as tye exhaust, im running 4" straights without any cats. the truck has the original carburator a carter 2barrell with the fuel heater plate between the carb & intake. if i try to slowly take off the truck bogs down and tries to die but if u let off the gas pedal then mash it to the floor it skips the hesitation & runs really well and fast to. simce the truck isnt required to be inspected anymoreive dumped off all of the emission system componets which gave me a Huge Boost in power besides the DIY RamAir set up thats on the truck via a high rise enclosure that direct air into a cold air box above the card with 2 high cfm 12 volt DC fans for added boost this setup really makes alot of extra horsepower which is fun to play with on the streets where im at in Texas, but its the acceleration hesitation thats got me stumped. any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated, Thanks James
Start with your oil change and oil filter.then check your air filter and make sure your spark plugs and wires are current.This will stop the rest from occurring
@@8020Media let me rephrase that.Itll stop the rest from going out early and prolong the life on it which will give you a decent amount of time to prepare for upgrades
I’ve got a 2008 Ford Ecape with the 3.0… Back when the weather was warmer it had a check engine light. I had it tested and there was several different codes, basically all the ones saying your air fuel ratio is off… Like O2 sensor, EGR, and something else. I can’t exactly remember. But I know one of those things can cause all of those codes. Long story short the weather started getting cooler and the check engine light went out one day. It hasn’t been back on until recently and it went back out before I could test it. I think it was most likely the gas cap wasn’t on good enough. It still hasn’t been back on in over a month now. But the thing that gets me is I know something isn’t right. Because it will be idling at a red light, or the drive through and it will bog like maybe 200-250 RPMS real quick and then jump back up… Also it loses maybe 10 MPH up a fairly steep hill that normally it would just cruise right up with no struggle at all. Now I have to give it more throttle and it still has trouble. I’m lost, I’ve changed the air filter and ran some sea foam through the gas and I put like 4ozs in the oil… Any help on where to start with no check engine light?
P - Your vehicle previously had air-fuel ratio-related codes, and now experiences idle dips and power loss on hills, likely pointing to a vacuum leak, dirty MAF sensor, weak fuel pump, or clogged catalytic converter. Since the issue improved in colder weather, it could be a vacuum leak that seals better when temperatures drop, so check the PCV hose, intake manifold gaskets, and EGR valve. A dirty or failing MAF sensor can cause improper fuel metering, so cleaning it may help. A weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter could explain the loss of power under load, while a failing upstream O2 sensor or restricted catalytic converter could also contribute. Try scanning live data for fuel trims-if long-term fuel trims are high (above +10% LTFT), it suggests unmetered air or fuel delivery issues. Also, clean the throttle body and IAC valve, as carbon buildup can cause inconsistent idle behavior. Keep us updated!
I get a clicking or ticking. I have a bad/ burned out coil and spark plug. Also not getting much power or acceleration. Hoping That’s the problem as I can’t get up to speed to drive. Also I hope I have some old ones that are still usable because I’m broke 😂. Thanks for this video. I will start at the maf sensor, air filter, then spark plugs and coils. Again, thanks for the info. You freakin rock
Not a problem thanks for watching - if you have a bad coil and plug then you are probably misfiring like crazy which will certainly cause that so I'd suggest checking that out first. Not sure what car you have but most plugs are very cheap, coils usually are reasonable too if you're just buying 1.
Awesome video. My 99 Astro has very poor acceleration. I get upto 30 mph going up hill, and 75 mph on flat ground. I've replaced the fuel filter, cat, 02 sensors, throttle control sensor, and cleaned out my egr valve, and map sensor . Still runs like crap.
@@8020Media Yeah man. I'm going to recheck the MAF sensor one more time, and the the EVAP system. I'm getting a P0442 code which detected a small leak. Wish me luck bro. I'm trying to hit the mountains this weekend. 😆
Can a failing catalytic converter cause my car to have no acceleration randomly tobthe point ibhave toblet my foot off the pedal and wait a secound then putbthe foot back down and then the cars acceleration comes back on hard and orbi let off the pedal and down shift a gear then again it will roar back to life again the car does have a rattle in the exhause at idle rpm /at low crusing rpms at randon tooo
G - It's possible, but this sounds more like a fueling related issue. We have a ton of DIY videos that may be helpful: ruclips.net/p/PLiX521qA-UEQrLY1ZRDnLP37yCDCcvQCV
Anujis - This could be many things. Transmission is the most likely thing, but could certainly be catalytic converters, misfires, fuel issues, intake issues, or exhaust system issues.
Yes, that could do it too - I tried to cover the major items but the list is long. Bad temp sensor probably isn't quite as common of a problem but it would certainly cause issues that could cause this too.
Excellent presentation. I understand how the different elements group together now. I recently bought a 1999 Lincoln Navigator. First day it blew a spark plug. I got that "fixed," and hit the interstate and engine light came on and it lost a lot of power. Now it sputters, backfires extremely loud, gets 4.3 MPG, and gets up to 40 MPH but it takes five minutes to get there. I've been trying different things based my ability to afford a part. I saved for a year for a vehicle and that's what I got. I'm an independent contractor courier, so with the gas mileage and MPH, I don't make much profit. I hope it isn't the last part on the list of possibilities...
H - We have many DIY videos that we think could assist you with your symptoms! Here is the playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLiX521qA-UEQrLY1ZRDnLP37yCDCcvQCV Do you happen to have a code reader?
I have P0401 code coming after ~30mi and try to clear it. The car is 2001 Saturn SL2. I was referenced to this film in another film of your channel "How to Fix a P0401 Engine Code!" I find it very helpful, a lot of useful information. On this car I did everything you advise, including Fuel Pump replacement. I suspect now Power Brake Booster (or Booster itself or its Vacuum Hose). Though it can be dirty EGR Valve passages. I think it is not possible to clean them well, unless you remove the Intake Manifold. Please could you tell with what solvent it is better to clean the Booster Vacuum Hose (I couldn't find a new one for that car). And is it possible just to make another new hose fm/a hose of corresponding diameter? I mean just to cut a new hose. Thank you again.
Great one! Well delivered. Pls I notice my car stalls but anytime it happens and I put the car on reverse it works perfectly but stalls while accelerating. Everything u suggested have all been done with no result... what more can I do?
M - Thanks for the feedback! We left out a plethera of other common causes because we wanted to focus on the most common ones. However, the ones you have mentioned can also be some causes! Thanks for the insight.
Hello. My freelander 2 it is losing power while driving, when that happens i just turn it off and on and the car is again normal full power,but later will happen the same and i just repeat the process. Any ideas what could be the problem.
H - Your vehicle losing power while driving, but regaining full power after restarting, suggests the vehicle is going into limp mode due to an issue detected by the ECU. Common causes include a failing fuel pressure sensor, turbo boost leak, clogged EGR valve, faulty MAF sensor, or a restricted DPF (diesel models). Since the problem resets when you restart, it’s likely sensor-related rather than a mechanical failure. Start by scanning for stored or pending fault codes, even if the check engine light isn’t on. Check the fuel system for pressure inconsistencies, inspect the turbo hoses for leaks, and clean the MAF sensor and EGR valve. If it’s a diesel, a clogged DPF can also trigger limp mode, so check if a forced regeneration is needed. Keep us updated!
My Suzuki SFV650 had an issue of bogging down falling on its face when I roll on the throttle hard especially on the highway. I believe my fuel pump which is only three years old since I replaced is going bad. Or it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator.
This is a great content and i am happy to come across this video. I am having this problem on my Mercedes-Benz but the problem comes on and off ( intermittent).... and with no light on my dashboard. What do you recommend
Hector - Unfortunately this isn't a very easy issue to diagnose. Therefore, this could be many things, but we can provide some starting places to look into. The fuel system (Fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors), air intake system (air filter or MAF), and ignition system (ignition coils and spark plugs). Keep us updated on this!
P0172 is oxygen sensor might be bad or clogged with carbon buildup. I would replace the O2 sensor. P0173 is fuel trim error, I would clean the mass airflow sensor with mass airflow sensor cleaner. On my 2002 Toyota 1MZ engine, the throttle body was clogged with carbon and pcv valve was also clogged with carbon buildup. After I cleaned them with throttle body cleaner the engine runs much smoother.
Excelent video bro, thanks. Got a 2006 Lincoln zephyr with an acceleration problem while the engine is cold, but after 30 minutes of driving, it the problem disappears. Please point me in the right direction to find the cause. Thank you.
J - The high revving at start and P0638 code are likely due to a throttle body issue or related wiring. Start by cleaning the throttle body and inspecting the wiring, then proceed to test and replace any faulty sensors or components
Also throwing out the transmission here and load vs no load. Such as when you push the accelerator down, is it sluggish to power the wheels? Then in N it's revs with no issues? In my case on a 94 maxima, with an infrequent, but un-timely issue. Only when you need it :) Which could be the TCU having an issue. and also cause some rough idle / jerking response in motion or just standing still in gear.
Seeking advice regarding an issue with my car. It is losing power during acceleration & consuming significantly more fuel than usual. Previously, the check engine light came on after going through an automatic car wash. When I took it to an auto shop, the diagnostic code was P0447. The issue was resolved, and the check engine light turned off. However, the problems with power loss during acceleration and increased fuel consumption persist. I would appreciate any insights or recommendations to address this issue. Thank you
J - The P0447 code you previously experienced indicates an issue with the EVAP system vent control circuit, which might have been resolved, but the current problems with power loss and increased fuel consumption could be related to lingering issues in the EVAP system or another part of the engine management system. Power loss and poor fuel economy are often caused by fuel system problems (e.g., clogged fuel injectors or a weak fuel pump), airflow issues (e.g., a dirty MAF sensor or air filter), or ignition system faults (e.g., worn spark plugs or coils). Additionally, a malfunction in the EVAP system, like a stuck vent valve or vacuum leak, can lead to improper air-fuel ratios, causing these symptoms. Start by inspecting and cleaning the MAF sensor, checking the air filter, and testing the fuel pressure. If these components are fine, perform a smoke test for vacuum leaks and ensure the EVAP system components are functioning properly. Keep us updated!
My 2017 Dodge Challenger just tonight started to jerk a bit when it goes into 7th and 8th Gear. RMPs are kept between 1.5k-2k...when I apply little Throttle, the car stutters a bit. I haven't cleaned the air filter in a few months due to work, traveling out of state and my car just staying home. The only things that I have changed is Engine Oil at least 4x a year and recently the Crank Shaft sensor for Bank 1. I know I'm due for Spark Plugs but it's getting too cold to work on my car in Long Island. I also need to change my rotors but weather these days been rainy and been busy with work. The days I been home, it rains and not enough time in the day to get everything done. I'll start with my Air Filter then proceed to see if that helps. I haven't gotten any Check Engine lights. The roads in NYC have been severely bad with bumps, patches and really bad uneven surfaces on the highways. I felt this issue after going over a few rough patches on the Van Wyck Expressway 😂 It's just a car, it can be fixed and everything replaced. I just lack the time because I like doing work on my car myself.
Z - Keep us updated on this! We would definitely start with the ignition system (coils and spark plugs,\) then perhaps look at the fuel pump and injectors.
@@8020Media Good Evening. I manged to find out the issue. I cleaned the Intake Filter today. I took a drive to the Auto Parts store (to test drive and see if I needed to make a stop there) The vibration was still there. I connected my OBII Tool and checked all the information one by one before I drove. The issue at the end as confirmed by the OBII reader was a misfire in Cylinder #2 (Only). I pushed the car bit (but incrementally) and the misfires were random. I forgot to check my Recorded readings when I came back in my driveway and turned off my car 😭 I took a 1min drive around the block and went a little more heavier on the Throttle and indeed I got the Check Engine light blinking for Cylinder #2 Misfire (PO302) I got a torque wrench and new spark plugs pre gapped for my engine. Hopefully tomorrow I can work on it. The weather today has not been to great again. Most of the day, the area had light rain this morning and killed off most of the day. Only have daylight until 4:30pm hahaha
@@8020Media Today I was only able to swap out the Spark Plugs. They were really in a need to be changed out. The original lasted 67k miles. I need to order new Coil Packs now since there is still a slight misfire but ONLY when in Gears 6, 7 and 8 driving at low RPMS. When I step on the Throttle, there's at least 1 misfire going into the Power Band. When I drive in Manual, the car drives well in high RPMs. I think when the engine is forced into a higher load in 6th, 7th and 8th Gear, there's a slight misfire. It can be mistaken for a bump if you aren't in tune to the feel of the car. Tomorrow, I will switch the Coil Pack to either Cylinder 1 or 3 and put Cylinder 2 Coil Pack on the one I switch out. If Cylinder 1 or 3 (whichever I choose to swap with Cylinder 2) has a misfire, it is the Coil Pack. If it's still Cylinder 2, then....I'll need to look into taking it to a shop to get a quote on new Cylinder parts. Hopefully, it is just needing new Coil Packs. While replacing those, I'll also replace the Crank Shaft Sensor on Bank 2. I replaced the sensor on Bank 1; about 2 weeks ago.
N - The P07ED-00 code on your 2021 Nissan Rogue indicates that the transmission clutch "B" is stuck engaged, which is causing zero acceleration and the "release brake" message. Start by checking the transmission fluid level and condition; low or dirty fluid can cause such issues. Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to reset the transmission control module (TCM) and clear any temporary glitches. If the issue persists, it could point to a faulty TCM, clutch actuator, or internal transmission problem. It’s best to consult a Nissan dealership or transmission specialist for a diagnostic scan to pinpoint the exact fault. Avoid driving the vehicle further to prevent additional damage.
Any idea what would be the problem with my 1999 Ford F-150 starts and rough runs, no power in drive but drives good in 4x4. Have done injectors, coils, fuel pump, regulator and plugs. Replaced the mass flow sensor 2 years ago.
Thank you sounds like my 2012 Buick Verano loss of power only sometimes and I already have one Cadillac Converter replacement I’ve been told the other is bad as well.
Have u figure out the problem with your 2012 Buick because I am having the same problem with my 2009 Honda pilot I change the catalytic converter and the problem is still there
Can you get a diagnostic code if the instrument panel is not showing any warning lights? I get random sputtering at slow speed, during acceleration, and at steady highway speeds. I was hoping maybe I just got bad gas somewhere, but I'm getting concerned that I won't make it to a destination one day soon, and I don't want you just turn my car over to some shop blindly without narrowing down expectations.
I have an 03 honda pilot that stops accelerating while driving should i change the 3rd and 4th shift transmission solenoid or should I start with oxygen sensors?
I have a 14 F150 5.0 that doesn’t accelerate and sometimes not shift. The hard part about it is one week it’s perfect the other it messes up. It might be called Limp mode that it goes into.
Liked your video ...I had slight sluggish acceleration, power loss going up the summit to 7,000 ft but made it afterwards going downhill it was ok. Thinking its the fuel filter or catalytic converter. No engine light codes on only the trac light lite on. That day it was very hot, destination was 75 miles (from desert to mountains in Arizona). Last year I had changed the spark plugs & fuel pump just recently the air filter on 2002 Pontiac Sunfire, so what could it be? Bought my fuel filter but not installed yet.
Costa - Thanks for the feedback! Black smoke emitting from the exhaust usually means the vehicle is experiencing a rich fuel mixture. Things we would check: fuel injectors, MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor, O2 sensors, air filter, spark plugs, and ignition coils.
Im almost 105 years old and im sure that after this explanation even I can fix the issues on my lifted Tacoma..Thank you young man.
TK - Thank you for the feedback! We hope it helps.
What about egr valve stuck open
Can it cause the same problem?
M - For losing power?
Yes i mean recently i ve got a P1401 on honda accord 2005 ictdi 2.2, and after ive cleaned the egr valve (it was closed), the check engine light turned off. But the car is extremely slow i can't go up hells more than 1st gear (No check Engine light)
Could it be a stuck open egr valve?
Or bad injectors ?
Still i ve tested the 4 injectors they were getting much more returns yet, the engine was so powerful. The problem occured only after egr valve cleaning
M - Thanks for sharing your experience. This sounds tricky. It certainly sounds like an exhaust issue.
Your content offers great value, As a 70 yrs grandma I feel more confident after watching your video; It is honest thorough and to the point. Well done young man, I wish you great success in life and I send you many blessings.
Thank you so much for the feedback. We're glad it could be helpful!
Very good
Thanks for the feedback Bethel!
Trying to find an available mechanic to diagnose this issue has been difficult for me so this was a huge help in pointing me in the right direction! Thank you so much for the thorough and well explained video!
Mental - Thanks for the feedback! That's our goal with all of our videos.
One of the most detailed but simple presentations i have ever seen on youtube .Thank you
Jeff - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helped out.
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@@8020Mediam😂😊😊😊
Excellent video . My profession is not mechanic, but I did study mechanics in high-school. However I do basic repairs at home unless heavy machinery, welding, lifting car involved, then I take it to a shop.
My Toyota SUV lately wasn’t even starting for a few days. I decided that I would fix it myself no matter what.
It was just replacing air filter, cleaning MSF sensor, cleaning throttle body, then I started the car with starter fluid, and the magic worked . Now I’m driving it agin. It cost me only to buy MAF sensor cleaner, throttle body cleaner, air filter.
Basically a part of the list you have in this awesome video.
Guys you can do it yourself and avoid hefty mechanics $s .
We appreciate these kind of videos. It really helps DIY.
C - This is exactly why we do what we do! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Jake I have watched a lot of videos and this is the first comment I have made on you tube...This explained so well the breakdown of problems that it could be I think I might just be able to run it down. Thanks for your time ,effort and patience
Denise - Thanks for feedback! We hope you find it helpful in your diagnosis.
This is a great example of how to make a video that even the none mechanic can understand , good job .I'll definitely give you a thumbs up .
Mark - We appreciate the feedback! Our goal is to assist anyone regardless of automotive skill level.
This is the best end to end intergrated explanation of inputs turned to outputs with all the sensors involved and relevent codes involved. Great work.
Khumbuz - Thanks for the feedback and we’re glad we could help!
@@8020Media u u
Thank you!
new to cars?
I am 73 widower. I will sure try and follow your instruction first. Cannot afford to pay high dollars to fix my 2012 Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl. Thank you so much for your information. Have a blessed day!! So far I have learned to clean my throttle Body. 😂 ❤
V - Thanks for the feedback. We hope the video helps!
Toyotas are pretty high quality cars they usually don't experience these problems that's your best choice to have a Toyota
My car is experiencing both inconsistent idling,& loss of power. Your video will certainly point me in the right direction to help find the cause of this problem...Thankyou! 🚘🔧
Geoff - We hope it helps! Keep us updated.
Thank you SOOO MUCH for this amazing detailed video. I just spent $2500 trying to figure out why my car has trouble accelerating & was squeaking. I've changed AC clutch, alternator, pulleys, changed fuel injector, oil change, you name it..yet still have extreme vibration, fuel burning smell, squeaking (the volume has reduced though) and horrible acceleration especially on incline. RPM seems to have trouble going below 2 and seems to run faster overall.
I've brought it to my dealership & another mechanic.
Dealership gave me a quote for 3000 worth of additional fixes but said they "didn't feel anything wrong with my car"
Other mechanic says he will have to start taking apart my engine which is super costly. I'm so confused on who to turn to & so drained mentally & financially from this
Melissa - So sorry to hear about this. We have a plethora of DIY videos on our channel that we think would be helpful. Based on the symptoms you are experiencing, we think this would be the best place to start: ruclips.net/video/BiYsqRJCLhE/видео.html
Keep us posted on this!
@@8020Mediathanks so much! I definitely will
@@MelisJoydid you fix it? I’m having similar issues with my wrangler
Im so thankful for this video. Im having this issue and the mechanic cant find a problem. I was thinking i need to trade the car in. Im inspired to keep troubleshooting. Air filter and spark plugs have been changed. Cant get appt to dealerfoir a month. Excellent video!!
C - Thanks for the feedback! We hope you'll be able to figure it out and save some money. Keep us updated.
Keep up your research and education. This type of fault lead me to study and repair cars for years. Invest in time and be logical, it will pay off
Legit this is a phenomenal presentation. Please make more videos.
C - We really appreciate it! We're going to continue to make more DIY videos. Make sure you're subscribed to stay in the loop.
Wonderfully comprehendible and instrumental in helping me to draw up a history and sequence of events leading to my acceleration and rough idling issues! My mechanic will be thrilled when I bring the car in, as I am! Thank you!
Poochi - Glad to hear! Thanks for the feedback. We also have a rough idle video if that helps too: ruclips.net/video/BiYsqRJCLhE/видео.html
Jake, excellent presentation. This is one of the most wonderful and best presentation I ever heard on auto issues. My issue, will accelerate to 2000 RPM. Then when I floor it engine bog's down. When I let up on the gas pedal half way, engine accelerates and takes off as long as I keep her around 2000 RPM. No miss firers. New plugs, coils and wires. New fuel pump. Getting Codes P0171 & P0174. 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4L, 130k miles.
R - Thanks for the feedback! Those codes indicate a lean condition, which leads us to check these things: MAF sensor, vacuum leaks, fuel pressure, O2 sensors, and fuel injectors.
Thanks Jake. I never replaced 02 sensors so I'll start with replacing all 4 upstream and downstream 02 sensors. Will report back to you.
Please keep us updated! We hope it helps.
@@Robert-i2rHey I got a 5.4L F150, did that solve your problem?
Wow! This is probably the BEST presentation on any issue I’ve ever seen on youtube. Good job!!!
B - Thanks for the feedback! That's what we're going for
Bro thank you for this video! This video was explained very well for me to understand. Now all I gotta do is follow the steps one step at a time and I can now work around and see what I gotta do now to better help my acceleration problem. Thank you !
TNO - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
@@8020Media well I tried cleaning my air filter and it was going good until I ripped a whole into it😂 so I just went to autozone and got a new one and I also don’t have a MAF sensor so I guess I’m already going down the list quickly 😂
I’m getting all this and no fault codes after changing my engine oil on my 2010 Tundra. I’ve also had a fuel tank problem in the past. Mice chewing on stuff. I changed out the tank with a used tank. I never change the fuel pump…. Then a few months later I’ve had leaks on top of the fuel tank, loose clip. That was fixed twice. Now it just running like crap, rumbling, the oil pressure gauge gets real high, when I accelerate. I’ve changed the fuel cap, oil sensor unit, fuel valve….nothing. I’m going to walk through these steps you gave us.
M - Sorry to hear.. Keep us updated.
Great video. My Jimny is loosing power when accelerating and is going in the garage today. Now I have a list of things that it might be. Thanks.
C - Keep us posted! Hope it helps.
God bless these videos I'm a female with health issues and most macanic don't have compassion they lie so u can pay more I'm learning sooooo much God bless the men in these videos ❤️🌈❤️
Felicia - Glad to hear the video was helpful! Thanks for the feedback.
As a 22 year old black grandma, this will really help me fix up my Lincoln Town Car
T - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
😂😂😂
In other words.. Empty them pockets lol
H - Or take it to a mechanic for diagnosis and replace yourself.
As a female I’m fed up of the long winded sales talk and super costly long list always handed to me by the dealer. (Honda)
Fast forward found a great local mechanic - so far he’s always been open and honest. E.G what I definitely don’t need done and why I don’t need it!- btw he’s reading Hondas long list.
Presently I am experiencing an issue with acceleration at stop lights! No problem on long hauls - highway drives!
I’m the curious one, so going to attempt to figure this out myself.
Super happy I found your video, it is concise, detailed. Very ABC. Lastly Ty for the engine codes. 👍👍👍👏👏
K - We always advise finding a mechanic you trust! Goes a LONG way. Thanks for the feedback and we hope it helps!
This the coolest explanation ever, keep up with the good job man.....
Thanks! We really appreciate it and hope you found it helpful!
Good job and extremely thorough. I would like to see a version of this which uses common English for those of us, like me, who don't speak car tech. And maybe divide it with markers that help us see where the info we want is located.
Marlene - Thanks for the feedback here. We will take it into consideration.
Pretty much explains everything I was looking for
Glad you found it helpful!
Awesome video description, i have adhd, so it helps absorb the information.
F - Thanks for the feedback! That's what we hope to do!
Excellent presentation this is one of the most wonderful presentation I ever heard on RUclips over the years in such a simple and unique manner.
Great Job done sir as this information is very much helpful to me as my friend Noah have the very same problem.
Austin - We really appreciate the feedback and hope it helps you and Noah out!
what happens to noahs problem how was it resolved?
What?
You are an excellent teacher. This video is explained in detail where it is easily understood. I love it! I’ll be telling all my friends and family about your channel. You’re da best! I’m subscribing after this comment. Thank you so much 🥰👍😁👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾🫶🏽
S - Thanks for the feedback and support! This is why we do what we do! We hope it helped.
I wish u lived right around the corner from me I would be at your house everyday. Best explanation and great advice. Keep up the great work u are going to help alot of people out here.
Nate - We really appreciate the feedback. Just trying to help everyone we can!
😮 not everyday
A fantastic explanation. I like the fact that these basics faults can be almost illuminated in part by making sure you do basic yearly service; replace oil & filter and fuel treatment and new fuel filters too. Also replace air filter, MAS/MAF sensors , clean EGR and supporting pipes every year. Regular maintenance of your vehicle will take many of these faults away 🤔
N - Thanks for the feedback and sharing these insights!
This is very simple,helpful and easy to follow.Thank you so much.
John - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
A gasoline direct injection (GDI) fuel pump can operate at pressures ranging from 500-2,900 pounds per square inch (PSI). The fuel rail pressure in a GDI system typically ranges from 300 PSI at idle to 2,200 PSI at full load.
T - Thanks for the insight.
Very good presentation!
Raymond - Thanks for the feedback!
I can't believe how this man is explaining in detail I went to another side while ago he was trying to ask the question and he wanted me to pay $5 to join their site or whatever just to find out the answer and this man is explaining detail I'm going to start my fuel filter cuz I already checked the injectors and a coil packs I just don't understand
Scott - Thanks for the feedback. We strive to provide everyone with proper information to self diagnose any problem their vehicle may be having!
Your map or maf sensor or the air intake temp sensor could be failing
@@thomasquinn5537 thank you I still haven't figured it out yet.lol but do you think if the battery ends are lose could that cause it I just found out that they are lose and I am going to tighten them up today when I get off work.but I appreciate your feedback I am going to have it put on code reader today when I get to my son's house he has one
Thank you 🙏 for your help
Your way to explain everything is very good clear and understanding for regular people ❤
M - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
I'm now some what interested in mechanical engineering...you did a wonderful job. Thank you.
N - Haha, well thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for all the helpful tips. My car only stumbles when trying to accelerate on an incline/hill.
ST - Glad we could help!
Did you find out what it was @ST-wp1of
@@hunterloza4255 no not really.
Damn he didn't even give you a guess of what it could be.
ML - Are you referring to us? The video outlines things we advise doing.
Mornin Jake, James here & im having an accelerating issue with my 1984 chevy S-10 pickup 2.8 ltr engine.
truck has Mega miles on it.
had a rebuilt motor gone through & placed in the truck about 4 to 5 years ago.
theres not any sensors or computer on this truck & ive already replaced all of the
ignition components including distributer .
ove checked the timing with a timing light & we4e good there too as well as tye exhaust, im running 4" straights without any cats.
the truck has the original carburator a carter 2barrell with the fuel heater plate between the carb & intake.
if i try to slowly take off the truck bogs down and tries to die but if u let off the gas pedal then mash it to the floor it skips the hesitation & runs really well and fast to.
simce the truck isnt required to be inspected anymoreive dumped off all of the emission system componets which gave me a Huge Boost in power besides the DIY RamAir set up thats on the truck via a high rise enclosure that direct air into a cold air box above the card with 2 high cfm 12 volt DC fans for added boost this setup really makes alot of extra horsepower which is fun to play with on the streets where im at in Texas, but its the acceleration hesitation thats got me stumped.
any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated, Thanks James
J - Honestly kind of sounds like a fueling related issue. Keep us updated.
Start with your oil change and oil filter.then check your air filter and make sure your spark plugs and wires are current.This will stop the rest from occurring
Tone - Thanks for sharing this insight, although it's a little vague. Doing the above, won't necessarily stop the rest from occurring.
@@8020Media let me rephrase that.Itll stop the rest from going out early and prolong the life on it which will give you a decent amount of time to prepare for upgrades
Then we completely agree!
@@8020Media nothin lasts forever but God is eternity
I’ve got a 2008 Ford Ecape with the 3.0… Back when the weather was warmer it had a check engine light. I had it tested and there was several different codes, basically all the ones saying your air fuel ratio is off… Like O2 sensor, EGR, and something else. I can’t exactly remember. But I know one of those things can cause all of those codes. Long story short the weather started getting cooler and the check engine light went out one day. It hasn’t been back on until recently and it went back out before I could test it. I think it was most likely the gas cap wasn’t on good enough. It still hasn’t been back on in over a month now. But the thing that gets me is I know something isn’t right. Because it will be idling at a red light, or the drive through and it will bog like maybe 200-250 RPMS real quick and then jump back up… Also it loses maybe 10 MPH up a fairly steep hill that normally it would just cruise right up with no struggle at all. Now I have to give it more throttle and it still has trouble. I’m lost, I’ve changed the air filter and ran some sea foam through the gas and I put like 4ozs in the oil… Any help on where to start with no check engine light?
P - Your vehicle previously had air-fuel ratio-related codes, and now experiences idle dips and power loss on hills, likely pointing to a vacuum leak, dirty MAF sensor, weak fuel pump, or clogged catalytic converter. Since the issue improved in colder weather, it could be a vacuum leak that seals better when temperatures drop, so check the PCV hose, intake manifold gaskets, and EGR valve. A dirty or failing MAF sensor can cause improper fuel metering, so cleaning it may help. A weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter could explain the loss of power under load, while a failing upstream O2 sensor or restricted catalytic converter could also contribute. Try scanning live data for fuel trims-if long-term fuel trims are high (above +10% LTFT), it suggests unmetered air or fuel delivery issues. Also, clean the throttle body and IAC valve, as carbon buildup can cause inconsistent idle behavior. Keep us updated!
@ Thank you, I’ll give it a shot
Thanks for the wonderful information
Sylvester - Thanks for the feedback!
I get a clicking or ticking. I have a bad/ burned out coil and spark plug. Also not getting much power or acceleration. Hoping That’s the problem as I can’t get up to speed to drive. Also I hope I have some old ones that are still usable because I’m broke 😂. Thanks for this video.
I will start at the maf sensor, air filter, then spark plugs and coils.
Again, thanks for the info. You freakin rock
Not a problem thanks for watching - if you have a bad coil and plug then you are probably misfiring like crazy which will certainly cause that so I'd suggest checking that out first. Not sure what car you have but most plugs are very cheap, coils usually are reasonable too if you're just buying 1.
Precise presentation !
Noel - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helped!
Awesome video. My 99 Astro has very poor acceleration. I get upto 30 mph going up hill, and 75 mph on flat ground. I've replaced the fuel filter, cat, 02 sensors, throttle control sensor, and cleaned out my egr valve, and map sensor . Still runs like crap.
Ryan - Sorry to hear this. Sounds like you've hit a lot of parts already. How many miles are on it?
@@8020Media Thanks. 259k
R - Wow. Sounds like normal wear and tear could be playing a part to this.
@@8020Media Yeah man. I'm going to recheck the MAF sensor one more time, and the the EVAP system. I'm getting a P0442 code which detected a small leak. Wish me luck bro. I'm trying to hit the mountains this weekend. 😆
Ryan - Keep us updated!
Can a failing catalytic converter cause my car to have no acceleration randomly tobthe point ibhave toblet my foot off the pedal and wait a secound then putbthe foot back down and then the cars acceleration comes back on hard and orbi let off the pedal and down shift a gear then again it will roar back to life again the car does have a rattle in the exhause at idle rpm /at low crusing rpms at randon tooo
G - It's possible, but this sounds more like a fueling related issue. We have a ton of DIY videos that may be helpful: ruclips.net/p/PLiX521qA-UEQrLY1ZRDnLP37yCDCcvQCV
do u solve the problem
Hey man this was the best video I’ve seen.
MST - Thanks man, we really appreciate the feedback.
Great info!
Ben - Thanks for the feedback!
Did you mention ? Spark plugs and coils? This is the first thing that got recommended to me to change.
Jay - This can certainly be a possibility, but not sure it would be the first things to check as they can be more expensive than other things.
What would you say about a car that has very weak forward acceleration when accelerating from idle, but reverses with no issues whatsoever?
Transmission needs work
Anujis - This could be many things. Transmission is the most likely thing, but could certainly be catalytic converters, misfires, fuel issues, intake issues, or exhaust system issues.
Transmission clutch may need changing
clutch sensor
hey wt was the problem
I will follow this video step by step problem solving I hope starting with the filters - air - fuel and so on see if I get any success cheers
Terry - We hope it helps! Keep us updated.
Excellent, Star your channel
Muhammad - Thanks for the feedback!
Absolutely a very good analysis ❤🎉
A - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it is helpful.
temperature sensor is important. you did not mention this.
Yes, that could do it too - I tried to cover the major items but the list is long. Bad temp sensor probably isn't quite as common of a problem but it would certainly cause issues that could cause this too.
Thanx Jake. Let me go out and get this done. Will update you of the out come .
D - No problem! Keep us updated.
Excellent Explanation, very well done. Thanks.
P - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
best technical explanation ever .thank you
Peter - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helped!
Thanks for your very informative video easy on the eye and ear keep them coming bud
S - We appreciate the feedback! We don't plan on stopping anytime soon.
Thanks for uploading, very helpful.
O - Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for your presentation it is really helpful and straight forward
T - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Excellent and clear explanation
E - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helped.
Yes I found my answer to my problem with my 2005 Izuzu trooper, good job
H - Nice! Glad we could help.
Ngl this IS THE KIND OF EXPLANATIONS I NEED.
G - Hell yeah, we love to hear that. Thanks for the feedback!
Excellent presentation. I understand how the different elements group together now. I recently bought a 1999 Lincoln Navigator. First day it blew a spark plug. I got that "fixed," and hit the interstate and engine light came on and it lost a lot of power. Now it sputters, backfires extremely loud, gets 4.3 MPG, and gets up to 40 MPH but it takes five minutes to get there. I've been trying different things based my ability to afford a part. I saved for a year for a vehicle and that's what I got. I'm an independent contractor courier, so with the gas mileage and MPH, I don't make much profit. I hope it isn't the last part on the list of possibilities...
H - We have many DIY videos that we think could assist you with your symptoms! Here is the playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLiX521qA-UEQrLY1ZRDnLP37yCDCcvQCV
Do you happen to have a code reader?
@@8020Mediathe codes from Advance Auto's code reader are: P0174, P0443, P0122, P0113, P0171, P1406, P1401, P0401 I appreciate your time.
I have P0401 code coming after ~30mi and try to clear it. The car is 2001 Saturn SL2. I was referenced to this film in another film of your channel "How to Fix a P0401 Engine Code!" I find it very helpful, a lot of useful information. On this car I did everything you advise, including Fuel Pump replacement. I suspect now Power Brake Booster (or Booster itself or its Vacuum Hose). Though it can be dirty EGR Valve passages. I think it is not possible to clean them well, unless you remove the Intake Manifold. Please could you tell with what solvent it is better to clean the Booster Vacuum Hose (I couldn't find a new one for that car). And is it possible just to make another new hose fm/a hose of corresponding diameter? I mean just to cut a new hose. Thank you again.
We appreciate what you are doing so far today I've learned how to mantain the hydlin
James - Hope it helped!
Great one! Well delivered. Pls I notice my car stalls but anytime it happens and I put the car on reverse it works perfectly but stalls while accelerating. Everything u suggested have all been done with no result... what more can I do?
Sunday - We actually have a video for engine stalling. Let's start there and see if it helps: ruclips.net/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/видео.html
Great teaching respect bro.
F - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Thank you for explaining and all of your patience,.😊😊
T - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
@@8020Media yes it is very helpful 😁
Awesome video my guy keep em coming
Thugg - Thanks for the feedback! We sure will keep videos coming.
wonderful. really wonderful video. why you excluded fuel-pressure regulator and dirty throttle body???
M - Thanks for the feedback! We left out a plethera of other common causes because we wanted to focus on the most common ones. However, the ones you have mentioned can also be some causes! Thanks for the insight.
Great explanation and well done very well explained
Roger - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
Hello. My freelander 2 it is losing power while driving, when that happens i just turn it off and on and the car is again normal full power,but later will happen the same and i just repeat the process. Any ideas what could be the problem.
H - Your vehicle losing power while driving, but regaining full power after restarting, suggests the vehicle is going into limp mode due to an issue detected by the ECU. Common causes include a failing fuel pressure sensor, turbo boost leak, clogged EGR valve, faulty MAF sensor, or a restricted DPF (diesel models). Since the problem resets when you restart, it’s likely sensor-related rather than a mechanical failure. Start by scanning for stored or pending fault codes, even if the check engine light isn’t on. Check the fuel system for pressure inconsistencies, inspect the turbo hoses for leaks, and clean the MAF sensor and EGR valve. If it’s a diesel, a clogged DPF can also trigger limp mode, so check if a forced regeneration is needed. Keep us updated!
Tnx i will update asap
My Suzuki SFV650 had an issue of bogging down falling on its face when I roll on the throttle hard especially on the highway. I believe my fuel pump which is only three years old since I replaced is going bad. Or it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator.
M - Correct, it could be either of those. We have a video by us on the fuel pump that might be helpful: ruclips.net/video/cua6aG2ld9E/видео.html
This is a great content and i am happy to come across this video. I am having this problem on my Mercedes-Benz but the problem comes on and off ( intermittent).... and with no light on my dashboard. What do you recommend
Hector - Unfortunately this isn't a very easy issue to diagnose. Therefore, this could be many things, but we can provide some starting places to look into. The fuel system (Fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors), air intake system (air filter or MAF), and ignition system (ignition coils and spark plugs). Keep us updated on this!
I have tundra 2002 with this fault code 172 173 I have changed so many things but the car is still not working
P0172 is oxygen sensor might be bad or clogged with carbon buildup. I would replace the O2 sensor. P0173 is fuel trim error, I would clean the mass airflow sensor with mass airflow sensor cleaner. On my 2002 Toyota 1MZ engine, the throttle body was clogged with carbon and pcv valve was also clogged with carbon buildup. After I cleaned them with throttle body cleaner the engine runs much smoother.
Nezuko - Thanks for adding this insight and helping others!
Excelent video bro, thanks.
Got a 2006 Lincoln zephyr with an acceleration problem while the engine is cold, but after 30 minutes of driving, it the problem disappears. Please point me in the right direction to find the cause. Thank you.
C - Thanks for the feedback! That is normal. A cold engine is never going to accelerate better than when it is warm.
Transmission fluid low
C - Thanks for this insight. This could possibly be it.
Reault Kngoo ,,, At start it can be reved very high with no codes. when driving, it gives p0638 code and goes into limp mode ,,, what's up ?
J - The high revving at start and P0638 code are likely due to a throttle body issue or related wiring. Start by cleaning the throttle body and inspecting the wiring, then proceed to test and replace any faulty sensors or components
Also throwing out the transmission here and load vs no load.
Such as when you push the accelerator down, is it sluggish to power the wheels?
Then in N it's revs with no issues?
In my case on a 94 maxima, with an infrequent, but un-timely issue. Only when you need it :) Which could be the TCU having an issue. and also cause some rough idle / jerking response in motion or just standing still in gear.
N - Very true! Thanks for sharing your experience and insights!
Wow, ure awesome on explaining how it works, thanx alot, great knowledge
R - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Seeking advice regarding an issue with my car. It is losing power during acceleration & consuming significantly more fuel than usual. Previously, the check engine light came on after going through an automatic car wash. When I took it to an auto shop, the diagnostic code was P0447. The issue was resolved, and the check engine light turned off.
However, the problems with power loss during acceleration and increased fuel consumption persist. I would appreciate any insights or recommendations to address this issue. Thank you
J - The P0447 code you previously experienced indicates an issue with the EVAP system vent control circuit, which might have been resolved, but the current problems with power loss and increased fuel consumption could be related to lingering issues in the EVAP system or another part of the engine management system. Power loss and poor fuel economy are often caused by fuel system problems (e.g., clogged fuel injectors or a weak fuel pump), airflow issues (e.g., a dirty MAF sensor or air filter), or ignition system faults (e.g., worn spark plugs or coils). Additionally, a malfunction in the EVAP system, like a stuck vent valve or vacuum leak, can lead to improper air-fuel ratios, causing these symptoms. Start by inspecting and cleaning the MAF sensor, checking the air filter, and testing the fuel pressure. If these components are fine, perform a smoke test for vacuum leaks and ensure the EVAP system components are functioning properly. Keep us updated!
My 2017 Dodge Challenger just tonight started to jerk a bit when it goes into 7th and 8th Gear.
RMPs are kept between 1.5k-2k...when I apply little Throttle, the car stutters a bit.
I haven't cleaned the air filter in a few months due to work, traveling out of state and my car just staying home.
The only things that I have changed is Engine Oil at least 4x a year and recently the Crank Shaft sensor for Bank 1.
I know I'm due for Spark Plugs but it's getting too cold to work on my car in Long Island.
I also need to change my rotors but weather these days been rainy and been busy with work. The days I been home, it rains and not enough time in the day to get everything done.
I'll start with my Air Filter then proceed to see if that helps. I haven't gotten any Check Engine lights.
The roads in NYC have been severely bad with bumps, patches and really bad uneven surfaces on the highways. I felt this issue after going over a few rough patches on the Van Wyck Expressway 😂
It's just a car, it can be fixed and everything replaced.
I just lack the time because I like doing work on my car myself.
Z - Keep us updated on this! We would definitely start with the ignition system (coils and spark plugs,\) then perhaps look at the fuel pump and injectors.
@@8020Media Good Evening. I manged to find out the issue. I cleaned the Intake Filter today. I took a drive to the Auto Parts store (to test drive and see if I needed to make a stop there)
The vibration was still there. I connected my OBII Tool and checked all the information one by one before I drove.
The issue at the end as confirmed by the OBII reader was a misfire in Cylinder #2 (Only). I pushed the car bit (but incrementally) and the misfires were random.
I forgot to check my Recorded readings when I came back in my driveway and turned off my car 😭
I took a 1min drive around the block and went a little more heavier on the Throttle and indeed I got the Check Engine light blinking for Cylinder #2 Misfire (PO302)
I got a torque wrench and new spark plugs pre gapped for my engine. Hopefully tomorrow I can work on it. The weather today has not been to great again. Most of the day, the area had light rain this morning and killed off most of the day.
Only have daylight until 4:30pm hahaha
Z - Glad you were able to find the issue. This video will certainly help you with that code: ruclips.net/video/f1mQ5hD1-vI/видео.html
@@8020Media Today I was only able to swap out the Spark Plugs. They were really in a need to be changed out. The original lasted 67k miles.
I need to order new Coil Packs now since there is still a slight misfire but ONLY when in Gears 6, 7 and 8 driving at low RPMS. When I step on the Throttle, there's at least 1 misfire going into the Power Band.
When I drive in Manual, the car drives well in high RPMs.
I think when the engine is forced into a higher load in 6th, 7th and 8th Gear, there's a slight misfire. It can be mistaken for a bump if you aren't in tune to the feel of the car.
Tomorrow, I will switch the Coil Pack to either Cylinder 1 or 3 and put Cylinder 2 Coil Pack on the one I switch out.
If Cylinder 1 or 3 (whichever I choose to swap with Cylinder 2) has a misfire, it is the Coil Pack.
If it's still Cylinder 2, then....I'll need to look into taking it to a shop to get a quote on new Cylinder parts. Hopefully, it is just needing new Coil Packs.
While replacing those, I'll also replace the Crank Shaft Sensor on Bank 2.
I replaced the sensor on Bank 1; about 2 weeks ago.
Thanks for sharing all of this. It is certainly going to help future viewers! Keep keeping us updated. You're doing a great job.
It’s the best video I have ever seen I even with my broken English
Hugo - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helped.
Good content. Best wishes!
E - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
I have a P07ED-00 code onmy 21 nissan rouge .zero acceleration it said release break .. what can I do?
N - The P07ED-00 code on your 2021 Nissan Rogue indicates that the transmission clutch "B" is stuck engaged, which is causing zero acceleration and the "release brake" message. Start by checking the transmission fluid level and condition; low or dirty fluid can cause such issues. Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to reset the transmission control module (TCM) and clear any temporary glitches. If the issue persists, it could point to a faulty TCM, clutch actuator, or internal transmission problem. It’s best to consult a Nissan dealership or transmission specialist for a diagnostic scan to pinpoint the exact fault. Avoid driving the vehicle further to prevent additional damage.
Any idea what would be the problem with my 1999 Ford F-150 starts and rough runs, no power in drive but drives good in 4x4. Have done injectors, coils, fuel pump, regulator and plugs. Replaced the mass flow sensor 2 years ago.
D - Do you have any engine codes?
GOOD INFO WELL COMMUNICATED BUT WHAT IF IT IS VERY INTERMITTANT?
Jim - Thanks for the feedback! I would just pay attention to the symptoms when they happen so you can self diagnose.
You really help me thank you so much
S - Thanks for the feedback! Glad it helps.
Thank you sounds like my 2012 Buick Verano loss of power only sometimes and I already have one Cadillac Converter replacement I’ve been told the other is bad as well.
Pralston - Thanks for the feedback! Keep us updated on this.
Have u figure out the problem with your 2012 Buick because I am having the same problem with my 2009 Honda pilot I change the catalytic converter and the problem is still there
Great job my friend very excellent presentation. Make more videos
G - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Can you get a diagnostic code if the instrument panel is not showing any warning lights?
I get random sputtering at slow speed, during acceleration, and at steady highway speeds.
I was hoping maybe I just got bad gas somewhere, but I'm getting concerned that I won't make it to a destination one day soon, and I don't want you just turn my car over to some shop blindly without narrowing down expectations.
A - Yes, this can certainly happen. Best thing to do is to get an OBD2 scanner.
Thank you so much for your explanation bro
B - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
Excellent teacher !!!
E - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
I have an 03 honda pilot that stops accelerating while driving should i change the 3rd and 4th shift transmission solenoid or should I start with oxygen sensors?
D - I would certainly start with the smaller/easier things.
Will everything you mentioned, would all the parts throw a code?
M - No, not everything we mention will throw a code.
Very helpful clear information. That you so much.
A - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helped!
I love you explanation very simple
Dominic - Thanks for the kind feedback. We hope it helps!
I have a 14 F150 5.0 that doesn’t accelerate and sometimes not shift. The hard part about it is one week it’s perfect the other it messes up. It might be called Limp mode that it goes into.
Chris - It sounds like you've got some transmission issues? Do you have an check engine light?
Liked your video ...I had slight sluggish acceleration, power loss going up the summit to 7,000 ft but made it afterwards going downhill it was ok. Thinking its the fuel filter or catalytic converter. No engine light codes on only the trac light lite on. That day it was very hot, destination was 75 miles (from desert to mountains in Arizona). Last year I had changed the spark plugs & fuel pump just recently the air filter on 2002 Pontiac Sunfire, so what could it be? Bought my fuel filter but not installed yet.
K - Could be fuel filter. The list of things to go over would be in this video. Let us know if you've addressed all of these.
@@8020Media reading up & watching everyone's videos that way the mechanic will know what I am talking about & what I want done.
@@8020Media might check the vacuum hose for cracks, serpentine belt, etc.
K - Keep us updated with this!
Thank you sir for this information.
T - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
Hi, good explanation.
My don't accelerate and I noticed a black smoke to the exhaust.
Costa - Thanks for the feedback! Black smoke emitting from the exhaust usually means the vehicle is experiencing a rich fuel mixture. Things we would check: fuel injectors, MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor, O2 sensors, air filter, spark plugs, and ignition coils.