I have had a few German Shepherds in my life. Bruce my last. He was 10 years old when he passed a year ago. I gave him the best life any dog could want. Full of cuddles. Excitement. Going places. The works. I hope you have many more years of happiness with Marvel. A beauty@@kennedysgarage3281
Very intelligent video .Goes to show Diagnostic programmes ARE essential but the air flow considerations helped greatly so Human intelligence still prevails . Thanks for posting .
Hey Maurice, I agree. You need some ‘cop on’ in order to understand and repair modern electronics. I find it helps to think like the car and how one thing effects another 🤔🤔🤔 Glad you liked the video 🙏🙏
You can't think like the car and how one thing affects the other. You have to be in the coders brain who developed the damn Ecu and software to know how to fault find cars properly. Data sheets from the manufacturers is the only way forwards. Like an intake air sensor causing the Ecu to read air mass data wrong. @@kennedysgarage3281
Thank you for your videos. I have subscribed. I got a call out for one with this code and was baffled how it can take in to much air. Thanks to your help I found a hole in the hose down the left side where it sits against the frame.
Nice one Peter, many would have been at the cannon there , new air flow sensor , turbo actuator, etc etc , good man happy customer, he can do another 50k in his van now 😉💪👍
very good video,i had same problem on zafira dti,try clean sensors,but when you explain ,what the sensor was telling you,live data ,it all mad sense ,had a split pipe too,i have now ,as car is fixed,write down sensor values for tick over,3k,5k,three rev ranges ,and it does all make perfect sense,got myself a guide too,good data,for a healthy engine,also got the same verus edge,love the scope ,a lot people see a po number and not know what to do with it ,and what is needed for that code,to appear
Hey Richard, I find as I get older that things seem to make more sense when I think like the engine ECU. It just adds up more easily for me in a complicated car repair world. Delighted you enjoyed it though 🙏🙏🙏
Hi peter enjoyed this video wish you were looking after my van in work ... Im driving a Renault Master lwb 202 d The check pollution indicator is always on ..check engine light is perm on ...and the latest issue is its loosing coolant (coolant bottle always empty) engine fan constantly on ! The van spends more time in Renault than on the road .... Thank god i only drive it and not own it ...
The newer emissions standards are very stringent & because of this they will very quickly flag a fault code 🤷🏼♂️ I find the best way to fix most emissions related issues are to diagnose & repair but then drive the car for 2 or 3 days afterwards to verify the repair. It just lessens the come back rate & gives me peace of mind 😉😉
Watched this video as I’ve got the same fault showing on my transit 310 trend 2014 mk8 so went straight to my hoses and found a hole big enough to push my finger through 🙌🏻🙏🏻👌🏻
Spot on, helped me to locate leak on air hose. Mine was on opposite pipe to the one shown in video - Passenger side of engine and without the inline filter as yours has. Self amalgamating tape did roadside fix, now trying to find part number for right hose?🤔
Hi, I'm liking your great instruction info on diagnostics, and if you can read through this and maybe give me a your opinion please? I have a Peugeot boxer 2.2 Ford engine with 104000 miles on the clock. It has slowly lost economy over the last 4months, down from 33 MPG (over the last 4 years) to 20mpg on the display accumulated average. The accumulated average on MPG is constantly changing from 10mpg to 55mpg whilst driving, it used to sit steady in-between 31 and 35 mpg depending on journey types I regularly set the trip and average fuel consumption to keep an eye on it. The egr valve had failed which has been fixed with a new one. Van did its own DPF regen before changing the EGR and no issues since. Has been to my local garage, they change the EGR and they can not find any other fault codes or issues, it passes its emissions test and seems to run ok , although seem to be low on power. Has occasional light misfire, and a bit lumpy on start-up, also the engine sounded like it was pinking a bit under load and had that type of noisy combustion. I decided to send the 4 injectors off to be tested and came back with a low kOhms reading saying they were out of spec. Range should be within 210-165 their readings came as 41-90 kOhms. Purchased new injectors from PF Jones who tested the old ones. I changed those, a friend re-coded them to the engine using Peugeot-related diagnostics, and still no improvement. It's still a bit lumpy on start-up but seems to run okay and still low on power, no white smoke, no black smoke under start-up or driving conditions doesn't appear to be using oil, Isn't losing water from the cooling system, oil stays at a constant level, no visual white foam in oil filler cap, the exhaust pipe is nice and clean. The engine seems to rev up but gets noisy accelerating when the revs get to 3k. There is no improvement in MPG regarding speed or careful driving. Air and oil and filters done filters are less than a year old as these were changed when I started to notice the poor economy last November approx 10k miles ago. The fuel filter housing was drained to check for cleanliness, fuel came out clean. I have since found there is an issue with one of the injector cap wiring coming from the loom, it can be manipulated manually by hand movement to cut out bringing up an injector fault in cylinder 2, fitted a new male plug, and cured that issue. Otherwise, I'm a bit lost as to what else it could be. I have checked some sensors by unplugging them to see if they bring up a fault such as MAF, Rail Pressure, changed the MAF for a new one which pulled up a fault - Mass or Volume Air Flow A High... Checked for visible air leaks and couldn’t find anything, cleared the fault, Air Temp and the one just after the Turbo, when disconnected comes up with P0235 Turbo boost sensor A circuit. Still having the same issues fuel and power issues? I have phoned around several garages and no one will take a look as they say if there are no fault codes they won’t look at it. Is there a difference in code readers that may miss detecting fault codes? Any suggestions? Rob
Hi Rob, I read your comment a few days ago but didn’t really know what to suggest as your comment says everything is good. After thinking about it I’m wondering could the Dpf have been deleted from the ECU but never taken out of the exhaust??? So no faults stored but the engine is having trouble breathing 🤔🤔 Or I have seen the air filter to break up and some bits from it get caught in the air flow meter 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ Hopefully this will be of some use 😬😬
Thank you Kevin. It’s all quite logical but sometimes while in the middle of a stressful repair, sense & logic can go out the window for us all. It’s can be nice to get the time to think things through while watching a thought provoking video 🙂🙏🙏🙏
turns out of these vans the air intake sensor in the intercooler. When it fails the ECU then misreads the info coming from the air mass sensor. So setting the code P0BD volume air too much for mass sensor. Had one with the same issue. Saw your video. Did boost test after turbo. Did not find a leak. Changed boost intake temp sensor and instantly fault gone. Loads of power.
Well done James 👏👏👏 Only Friday gone I saw similar, Map sensor off on a mazda 6 causing a no brake booster pressure signal. You have to be up early in the morning for this stuff 😂😂😂
Tell me. Called to Ford Ka and told need new alternator. Get there and alternator pushing out 14v when car jumped. Engine off and jump pack removed. Battery zero ability to even show dash lights. Swap battery. Jump car. Engine runs. Switch off. Remove jump pack. Engine starts on key. Ok so check and with engine off on the ground lead from battery. With croc clamp from meter put on battery neg terminal and the other croc on the lead before separating lead from battery. There on meter shows 15 milliamps draw. Totally fine for 55 amp hour battery. So no parasitic drain. Checked battery for ac voltage. Meter turned to ac setting and way under 300 milliamps which I learnt from scannerdanner was the acceptable threshold. Customer drives car for a few days and then the drain comes back. Irregardless of it being a Sunday they try to call me. Negatively the text read too. No fault with my diagnosis. Must be intermittent drain. Car doesnt even have a bluetooth
@@jamesbarratt593 just a shot in the dark, this is a smart charge system and just behind the battery (close to bulk head) there is a large block connector. I have come across the PWM control wire for the alternator to break at this block connector. This can make the charging system act really funny 🤔🤔 Any charge related faults ??
@@kennedysgarage3281 what do you mean by saying a smart charge system? On neg lead the draw was 15 milli amps. I know thats nothing. So I figure the alternator is not always charging. They drove for three days then battery flat. I think the alternator must have issues. Anyway they said they are taking it to the brothers garage. Ok toodle pip. See ya. Oh and calling me on Sunday is just so disrespectful of them. Text is different. Only about them. Damn some customers are annoying
@@kennedysgarage3281 hang on are you talking about the charging when braking. Yep thats what you are saying. Im not entirely sure if this has that. Thought that was simply abs module telling module which sends power to signal wire for alternator that braking is happening. On and off style.
Haha, funny, my transit mk 7 is also playing christmas tunes, no torque, no power, rattles like crazy. vibrates like mad but if i unplug the air mass sensor it goes away. also have a whistling sounds like a boost leak but after 3 smoke checks no one can find the whistling noise.
I noticed in the back ground Peter you have a new dogs body (dog) in the garage haha is he/she the new member of the team sniffing out problems for you to sort haha
I tried watching the video in fast forward & couldn’t see the dog 😬 I have to assume it is my German shepherd Marvel. If so I have him around 9 or 10 years. But only 2 weeks ago I got the bad news that his back legs are giving up due to spinal arthritis 😞😞
@@kennedysgarage3281 @Kennedy’s garage not good but them dogs are prone for it let's hope he not suffering its about 7mins 42 secs into vid peter haha he sneaking about like a jap sniper
@@kennedysgarage3281 lovely loyal dogs them Peter let's hope the vet gives him some pain killers to boost him up I think it comes in liquid form they don't like it but it does work
@@kennedysgarage3281 i have issue with my transit mk7 2.2 as was low on power struggled to go up a hill was fine on flat changed injectors all new its slightly better but not much. The demanded airflow is like 37g/s when running and actual is only 19g/s second at idle and if you watch live data after a few minutes it climbs and peaks to 125g/s. When i high rev van when sitting the demanded highlights red about 300 g/s. Only codes im gettin is glowplug sense circuit and cooling fan 1. Its driving me crazy i have unplugged maf for now as was running abit better bit not much. Been told to have ecu tested but really not sure.
@@stugbroon16 leave your ECU alone, there is nothing wrong with it. The first thing to check is the EGR valve. Unscrew the motor off the top of it and make sure the valve itself is free. If that’s good then check the actuator on the turbo, these can fail quite regularly too. And I have seen both of them to fail and not trigger fault codes 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 i checked fuel pressures tonight 23000kpa desired and its fluctuating slightly betwern 20000 kpa and just over 23000kpa. Prv fine etc. Noticed tonight the clevice pin has snapped off wastegate that actuator is connected to. I've tied wire onto it for now. Can this be drilled out do you know thanks
Great video 👍 I’ve got a transit 2016 RWD with p0299 low boost code other garage have replaced turbo but still has the same code so van looses power dash light on then if you wait a few minutes light goes out and drives ok again !! Anyone point me in the correct area to look ?
@@leejones5561 are you getting that P00BD fault code ??? It could be the turbo actuator but you would possibly get an over or underboost fault 🤔🤔 Could the Dpf be drilled out ?? Did you perform an egr relearn after it was replaced?? Smoke test the intake system as the in take manifolds can leak on these ?? Just my initial thoughts 🤔🤔👍
I thought it would be interesting to some people, you would be surprised how many people would change an airflow meter due to a high air flow reading. So hopefully it might help someone out 🤞🤞 Cheers Dave 😉
Best part of this video is the german shepherd walking round the workshop. Looks a lovely dog.
Hi James, that’s Marvel my 10 year old companion. Hi back legs are getting a bit stiff but he has a lovely temperament 👍👍
I have had a few German Shepherds in my life. Bruce my last. He was 10 years old when he passed a year ago. I gave him the best life any dog could want. Full of cuddles. Excitement. Going places. The works. I hope you have many more years of happiness with Marvel. A beauty@@kennedysgarage3281
not so many people could logically explain why there is a mass air flow too high as a proper engineer.Thanks for your explanation
Thank you & I’m glad you understood me 🙏🙏🙏
Very intelligent video .Goes to show Diagnostic programmes ARE essential but the air flow considerations helped greatly so Human intelligence still prevails . Thanks for posting .
Hey Maurice, I agree. You need some ‘cop on’ in order to understand and repair modern electronics. I find it helps to think like the car and how one thing effects another 🤔🤔🤔
Glad you liked the video 🙏🙏
You can't think like the car and how one thing affects the other. You have to be in the coders brain who developed the damn Ecu and software to know how to fault find cars properly. Data sheets from the manufacturers is the only way forwards. Like an intake air sensor causing the Ecu to read air mass data wrong. @@kennedysgarage3281
Thank you for your videos. I have subscribed. I got a call out for one with this code and was baffled how it can take in to much air. Thanks to your help I found a hole in the hose down the left side where it sits against the frame.
Well done Vince 💪💪
Life just gets a little bit easier in this trade if we simply share what we know, thanks for subscribing mate 🙏🙏
Great video peter thanks for sharing , I was thinking maf sensor at start🤨 the by the end it clicked nice explanation 👌
Thank you John, I’m you liked it 🙏👍
This was great very thoughtful, thanks Peter 🙏🙏
I’m glad you enjoyed it Evan, sometimes the simplest videos can be the most helpful 🙏🙏🙏👍
The man says it how it is, great simplified video
Cheers Peter 🙏🙏
Nice one Peter, many would have been at the cannon there , new air flow sensor , turbo actuator, etc etc , good man happy customer, he can do another 50k in his van now 😉💪👍
Thanks Mike, it is a simple enough thought process & hopefully it will help some guys out 🤞🤞👍👍
very good video,i had same problem on zafira dti,try clean sensors,but when you explain ,what the sensor was telling you,live data ,it all mad sense ,had a split pipe too,i have now ,as car is fixed,write down sensor values for tick over,3k,5k,three rev ranges ,and it does all make perfect sense,got myself a guide too,good data,for a healthy engine,also got the same verus edge,love the scope ,a lot people see a po number and not know what to do with it ,and what is needed for that code,to appear
Hey Richard, I find as I get older that things seem to make more sense when I think like the engine ECU. It just adds up more easily for me in a complicated car repair world. Delighted you enjoyed it though 🙏🙏🙏
Hi peter enjoyed this video wish you were looking after my van in work ...
Im driving a Renault Master lwb 202 d
The check pollution indicator is always on ..check engine light is perm on ...and the latest issue is its loosing coolant (coolant bottle always empty) engine fan constantly on !
The van spends more time in Renault than on the road ....
Thank god i only drive it and not own it ...
The newer emissions standards are very stringent & because of this they will very quickly flag a fault code 🤷🏼♂️
I find the best way to fix most emissions related issues are to diagnose & repair but then drive the car for 2 or 3 days afterwards to verify the repair. It just lessens the come back rate & gives me peace of mind 😉😉
lovly stuff peter its about time you got a handy one 😃😃😃😃
Thanks for looking out for me Paddy 🙂🙏🙏
Watched this video as I’ve got the same fault showing on my transit 310 trend 2014 mk8 so went straight to my hoses and found a hole big enough to push my finger through 🙌🏻🙏🏻👌🏻
Well done Michael, that’s what my channel is all about 💪💪💪
Spot on, helped me to locate leak on air hose. Mine was on opposite pipe to the one shown in video - Passenger side of engine and without the inline filter as yours has. Self amalgamating tape did roadside fix, now trying to find part number for right hose?🤔
Well done mate, great job 💪💪👍
Hi, I'm liking your great instruction info on diagnostics, and if you can read through this and maybe give me a your opinion please?
I have a Peugeot boxer 2.2 Ford engine with 104000 miles on the clock. It has slowly lost economy over the last 4months, down from 33 MPG (over the last 4 years) to 20mpg on the display accumulated average. The accumulated average on MPG is constantly changing from 10mpg to 55mpg whilst driving, it used to sit steady in-between 31 and 35 mpg depending on journey types
I regularly set the trip and average fuel consumption to keep an eye on it. The egr valve had failed which has been fixed with a new one. Van did its own DPF regen before changing the EGR and no issues since.
Has been to my local garage, they change the EGR and they can not find any other fault codes or issues, it passes its emissions test and seems to run ok , although seem to be low on power.
Has occasional light misfire, and a bit lumpy on start-up, also the engine sounded like it was pinking a bit under load and had that type of noisy combustion.
I decided to send the 4 injectors off to be tested and came back with a low kOhms reading saying they were out of spec. Range should be within 210-165 their readings came as 41-90 kOhms.
Purchased new injectors from PF Jones who tested the old ones.
I changed those, a friend re-coded them to the engine using Peugeot-related diagnostics, and still no improvement. It's still a bit lumpy on start-up but seems to run okay and still low on power, no white smoke, no black smoke under start-up or driving conditions doesn't appear to be using oil, Isn't losing water from the cooling system, oil stays at a constant level, no visual white foam in oil filler cap, the exhaust pipe is nice and clean. The engine seems to rev up but gets noisy accelerating when the revs get to 3k.
There is no improvement in MPG regarding speed or careful driving. Air and oil and filters done filters are less than a year old as these were changed when I started to notice the poor economy last November approx 10k miles ago. The fuel filter housing was drained to check for cleanliness, fuel came out clean. I have since found there is an issue with one of the injector cap wiring coming from the loom, it can be manipulated manually by hand movement to cut out bringing up an injector fault in cylinder 2, fitted a new male plug, and cured that issue. Otherwise, I'm a bit lost as to what else it could be.
I have checked some sensors by unplugging them to see if they bring up a fault such as MAF, Rail Pressure, changed the MAF for a new one which pulled up a fault - Mass or Volume Air Flow A High... Checked for visible air leaks and couldn’t find anything, cleared the fault, Air Temp and the one just after the Turbo, when disconnected comes up with P0235 Turbo boost sensor A circuit.
Still having the same issues fuel and power issues?
I have phoned around several garages and no one will take a look as they say if there are no fault codes they won’t look at it. Is there a difference in code readers that may miss detecting fault codes?
Any suggestions?
Rob
Hi Rob, I read your comment a few days ago but didn’t really know what to suggest as your comment says everything is good. After thinking about it I’m wondering could the Dpf have been deleted from the ECU but never taken out of the exhaust???
So no faults stored but the engine is having trouble breathing 🤔🤔
Or I have seen the air filter to break up and some bits from it get caught in the air flow meter 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Hopefully this will be of some use 😬😬
Nice to have an easy fix for sure.
That makes a change Michael 😂😂👍👍
Another proper good video Peter great explanation and thought process 👍
Thank you Kevin. It’s all quite logical but sometimes while in the middle of a stressful repair, sense & logic can go out the window for us all. It’s can be nice to get the time to think things through while watching a thought provoking video 🙂🙏🙏🙏
turns out of these vans the air intake sensor in the intercooler. When it fails the ECU then misreads the info coming from the air mass sensor. So setting the code P0BD volume air too much for mass sensor. Had one with the same issue. Saw your video. Did boost test after turbo. Did not find a leak. Changed boost intake temp sensor and instantly fault gone. Loads of power.
Well done James 👏👏👏
Only Friday gone I saw similar, Map sensor off on a mazda 6 causing a no brake booster pressure signal.
You have to be up early in the morning for this stuff 😂😂😂
Tell me. Called to Ford Ka and told need new alternator. Get there and alternator pushing out 14v when car jumped. Engine off and jump pack removed. Battery zero ability to even show dash lights. Swap battery. Jump car. Engine runs. Switch off. Remove jump pack. Engine starts on key. Ok so check and with engine off on the ground lead from battery. With croc clamp from meter put on battery neg terminal and the other croc on the lead before separating lead from battery. There on meter shows 15 milliamps draw. Totally fine for 55 amp hour battery.
So no parasitic drain. Checked battery for ac voltage. Meter turned to ac setting and way under 300 milliamps which I learnt from scannerdanner was the acceptable threshold.
Customer drives car for a few days and then the drain comes back. Irregardless of it being a Sunday they try to call me. Negatively the text read too.
No fault with my diagnosis. Must be intermittent drain. Car doesnt even have a bluetooth
@@jamesbarratt593 just a shot in the dark, this is a smart charge system and just behind the battery (close to bulk head) there is a large block connector. I have come across the PWM control wire for the alternator to break at this block connector. This can make the charging system act really funny 🤔🤔
Any charge related faults ??
@@kennedysgarage3281 what do you mean by saying a smart charge system?
On neg lead the draw was 15 milli amps. I know thats nothing. So I figure the alternator is not always charging. They drove for three days then battery flat. I think the alternator must have issues. Anyway they said they are taking it to the brothers garage.
Ok toodle pip. See ya. Oh and calling me on Sunday is just so disrespectful of them. Text is different.
Only about them. Damn some customers are annoying
@@kennedysgarage3281 hang on are you talking about the charging when braking. Yep thats what you are saying. Im not entirely sure if this has that. Thought that was simply abs module telling module which sends power to signal wire for alternator that braking is happening. On and off style.
Haha, funny, my transit mk 7 is also playing christmas tunes, no torque, no power, rattles like crazy. vibrates like mad but if i unplug the air mass sensor it goes away. also have a whistling sounds like a boost leak but after 3 smoke checks no one can find the whistling noise.
I noticed in the back ground Peter you have a new dogs body (dog) in the garage haha is he/she the new member of the team sniffing out problems for you to sort haha
I tried watching the video in fast forward & couldn’t see the dog 😬 I have to assume it is my German shepherd Marvel. If so I have him around 9 or 10 years. But only 2 weeks ago I got the bad news that his back legs are giving up due to spinal arthritis 😞😞
@@kennedysgarage3281 @Kennedy’s garage not good but them dogs are prone for it let's hope he not suffering its about 7mins 42 secs into vid peter haha he sneaking about like a jap sniper
@@gavfreeman8797 that’s him, Marvel is his name. He’s grand but not as nimble as he used to be 👍👍🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 lovely loyal dogs them Peter let's hope the vet gives him some pain killers to boost him up I think it comes in liquid form they don't like it but it does work
@@gavfreeman8797 thanks Gav 🙏
Well done where are you based
Thanks Anthony 🙏
We are in Waterford area in Ireland 🇮🇪
Helpful video pal thank you
Hopefully it helps you out mate 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 i have issue with my transit mk7 2.2 as was low on power struggled to go up a hill was fine on flat changed injectors all new its slightly better but not much. The demanded airflow is like 37g/s when running and actual is only 19g/s second at idle and if you watch live data after a few minutes it climbs and peaks to 125g/s. When i high rev van when sitting the demanded highlights red about 300 g/s. Only codes im gettin is glowplug sense circuit and cooling fan 1. Its driving me crazy i have unplugged maf for now as was running abit better bit not much. Been told to have ecu tested but really not sure.
@@stugbroon16 leave your ECU alone, there is nothing wrong with it. The first thing to check is the EGR valve. Unscrew the motor off the top of it and make sure the valve itself is free.
If that’s good then check the actuator on the turbo, these can fail quite regularly too. And I have seen both of them to fail and not trigger fault codes 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 i checked fuel pressures tonight 23000kpa desired and its fluctuating slightly betwern 20000 kpa and just over 23000kpa. Prv fine etc. Noticed tonight the clevice pin has snapped off wastegate that actuator is connected to. I've tied wire onto it for now. Can this be drilled out do you know thanks
@@kennedysgarage3281 forgot to mention my egr is blanked off👍😉
Great video 👍 I’ve got a transit 2016 RWD with p0299 low boost code other garage have replaced turbo but still has the same code so van looses power dash light on then if you wait a few minutes light goes out and drives ok again !! Anyone point me in the correct area to look ?
Check the MAP sensor for carbon buildup, this can quite problematic 🤞👍👍
I enjoyed your video. Accent not so strong and understood your logic.
Thank you 🙏🙏
Thanks😃
You are very welcome 🙏 🙏
Love it
Thanks
Thank you George 🙏🙏👍
You are the man 💪🏻
Nice handy fix Lee 🙂👍👍👍
Done vaporizer, EGR valve, map+maf sensor ,now looking at turbo actuator...bloody costly nitemare
@@leejones5561 are you getting that P00BD fault code ???
It could be the turbo actuator but you would possibly get an over or underboost fault 🤔🤔
Could the Dpf be drilled out ??
Did you perform an egr relearn after it was replaced??
Smoke test the intake system as the in take manifolds can leak on these ??
Just my initial thoughts 🤔🤔👍
@Kennedy’s garage I'll check on egr relearn.. yes codes are over/under boost also notice I've got a leak from power steering return pipe now also
@@leejones5561 😬😬😬
👍👍👍
🙏🙏🙏
Too easy for your calibre
I thought it would be interesting to some people, you would be surprised how many people would change an airflow meter due to a high air flow reading. So hopefully it might help someone out 🤞🤞
Cheers Dave 😉