How to Replace Sway Bar Bushings and Stabilizer Links
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- Here's how to replace the front sway bar bushings and stabilizer bar end links on a Toyota Camry.
Front end clunks over bumps are a common occurrence on many vehicles with worn suspension parts. The stabilizer bar end links have two ball sockets on either end which can wear out. Additionally the sway bar bushings, which attach the sway bar to the sub-frame can also enlarge, become dry and worn and cause the sway bar itself to have excessive play and clunk, knock, click or pop when the car is driven on a bumpy road.
To diagnose this, disconnecting the two sway bar end links and taking the vehicle for a test drive can narrow the problem down. This video is a step by step tutorial on to replace the stabilizer bar links and bushings on many FWD Toyota vehicles, such as the Toyota Yaris, Echo, Matrix, Corolla, Camry, Sienna, Highlander, Avalon, Solara and Lexus RX300, RX330, RX350, ES300, ES330 and ES350.
To replace the end links, two nuts are removed, one from the strut, and the other from the sway bar. Many times these nuts are seized to the ball pin and have to be cut off. A Mevotech Original Grade part was used as a replacement, which has a similar design as OEM.
To replace the sway bar bushings, the sub-frame has to be dropped slightly to access two rear bracket bolts. This is because the sway bar bolts on top of the sub-frame, but is underneath the body, not leaving enough room to back off the bolt. The front bracket bolt can be removed using a ratchet through the wheel well. A Mevotech Supreme bushing kit was used as a replacement.
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Thanks for actually explaining it, a lot of idiots insist the links are the sway bar.
Yes the terminology is mixed up
I love when a simple job turns into dropping subframes...
I know right...I thought I could do this without dropping nthe subframe
it's called Toyota ! there's more like that and there was no fowl language!
@@speedkar99 hey there, can a stabilizer link or sway bar link cause a bumpy ride? Please let me know, thanks
@@janhakola4362 ah yes, toyota, the best cars ever….
@@RWarrior777 It cause a clunky ride sound specially in those continuous small gap of bump, and also when you turn your steering wheel when getting off the street.
Excellent instructional video!! You are an excellent teacher. Every word spoken was applied to describing what you were doing. Clear, concise, informative. I'm very impressed. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. Short and to the point is my style!
Thanks for taking the time and puttingtogether such great videos together. Keep up the top notch work.
Thanks for the kind feedback
Very informative your video is saving ppl a lot of time and money. Keep it up.
Thanks I'm glad it helped
i changed my end links on my pontiac vibe the other day, and it was really nice for a while until I hit a huge bump at high speed, and now it looks like i'll have to change the bushings. Thanx for this video ! the job looks way harder, not sure i'll do this by myself ... especially with a regular jack
You are welcome. Check the links nuts. Sometimes they could come loose
Awesome video. Thanks so much for showing each step and giving explanation to the whole process 🙂
If possible, double check your wheel alignment. Removing the subframe link might cause some difference in your wheel alignment. Great video!
That was lot of hard work. It's nice that you've made it. Good video.
Thanks. It sure wasn't as straight forward as I thought, especially those difficult to o reach sway bar bracket bolts!
Worth watching just to see the wrench get stuck. :)
OMG I felt so embarrassed not to think it would rust.
@@speedkar99 sucks ur wrench must not have switch
Awesome video, really informative. And just as others have said, makes me feel a whole lot better about things not going quite to plan in these jobs!
Yeah which is why I work on my own cars and not mess up other people's cars
@@speedkar99 So, emboldened by your experience, I had a crack at changing the bushings on my 2013 Aurion ZR6 (may not have been sold much outside of Australia, but it is a V6 made in Oz and based roughly on the Camry body). Fortunately for me and any other Aurion owner, I found that the clearances we ever so slightly better than for the Camry and I wasn't quite as jammed up with removing and installing the bolts. In particular, no need to drop the sub-frame. And of course there is no road salting in Australia, so I had no issues with rusted-on bolts. Even though my mechanic had assessed the sway bar bushings as ok, and they only appeared slightly mis-shaped when I removed them, replacing them and the links reduced the clunks from the front end to a similar degree as replacing the shockers and control arms. Thanks again.
So I grind off the bolt I cut off. I made this same move but couldn’t figure out the best method. Thanks for this! I was worried about ruining my sway bar
Thanks for sharing this!
My understanding is that you should always mount the bushing dry as it was done at the factory. Otherwise, you will DEVELOP squeaking after some time.
Is this not the case?
1. We all know whos sock that is 5:36.
2. Info I got from hayness, which says don't use mineral or petroleum based grease on those bushings. It hurts them over time!?
3. I swear camry suspension is 90% similar to Lexus RX350, and probably to most FWD/AWD toyota/lexus. So the fix probably applies.
4. 3:31 I got myself in exactly the same situation while I was changing front lower ball joints. My ratcheting wrench got stuck between ball joint stud nut and drive shaft. So I spent 2 hours manually grinding joint stud nut with a circular file. The second day I got water sacks in my hand.
5. Thanks for making such a real video.
Your brother is awesome to lend all his socks and tooth brushes to you!
Did this on a jaguar x308 with the wishbone suspension. Quite an easy job if you don't decide to do lots of other things at the same time!
Or if there's rust...
For a second I got ambitious and could see myself accomplishing this.....then I woke up.
I know right...
The links aren't bad
But the stabilizer bushings 😕
It's relatively easy. The rusted nuts aren't ever easy though
Saw the title and thought, hey, I can do that after i watch this video!
Saw the video and thought: no way, this is a job for the mechanic, not even going to try!
Haha well it's not difficult it's just a bad design that you have to drop the subframe to get those bushings one click at a time
Hey man thanks a lot for this video. This was the first 'big' project on a car I've done. Took me 2 entire days, what a nightmare to get everything out. Had to angle grind one of the links off and almost got my ratcheting wrench stuck like you did lol. I wouldnt have been able to do it if not for this video. Thanks a lot
I guess the rust visible on that camry isn't especially bad, but if I lived up there, my car would be covered in a thin layer of Fluid Film year round. Though I do like the smell of lanolin...
On my 01 ES300 I was able to simply slide the sway bar bushing on without sliding it along the sway bar. Is there any thing preventing you from doing that here?
The 01 is the previous generation Camry platform which has way more room to work under the hood.
The rust isn't bad to be honest, I had an accord and Corolla that was worse.
On the 02-09 models the sway bar runs over the steering tie rods back into the most inconvenient spot I’ve ever seen.
Probably on 2010-2017 models too
On my 2003 Honda accord, the front sway bar bushing are covered by the frame. To get the bolts on the inside off you have to drop the subframe a little bit. That's only reason I havent changed them yet. Lot of work.
Yes the accord is more difficult.
I've heard of some people swapping the whole bar for the Acura TL bar for better handling
@@speedkar99 The outside bolt is easy. The inside one is completely covered. Even if you were to break it loose, once you loosened it enough it would hit the frame just like in this video. Damn honda.
@@speedkar99 In the summer maybe I'll tackle it on a nice weekend.
I used small stubby 12mm wrench to take the bolts off the front after getting them loose, took forever but didn't need to mess with the subframe
Yeah I hate this subframe design. So stupid
Gotta love the toothbrush pointer. Make sure you rinse it off in the toilet bowl before you use it again ha,ha.
Lol!
Yeah, i like you using that anti-seiz on your bolts! I use it on everything i do on my cars and it is a breeze removing them later been doing it for more than 55+ years now working on cars and Hot Rods.
wow bro, I was wanting to replace my sway bushings real soon, thanks
You are welcome, video is just in time
Mine don't have a bushing lol. I came out and it's just hanging there
I haven't messed with those bushings but I did do the links with antiseize. About 2 years later my camry suddenly had a scary sounding clunk I thought for sure was something serious; turned out the back end link nut was a turn loose. Just FYI in case something sounds likes its about to fall off... Check that first! Merry Xmas...
Yes good point, one of mine was loose shortly after install
Hey a video by speedcar99, always better than my family members!
Thanks
Dude,your video is great !!! I noticed you like to borrow a lot of things from your brother. Do you borrow his under wear ,too ?
My '02 Camry has been clunking over bumps for three years now and you may have just solved the mystery for me with that bushing replacement. I've replaced the lower control arms, sway bar links, motor mounts, ball joints and struts. I've had mechanics look at it and can't figure it out. A faulty replacement part maybe? A bad CV joint? It's been driving me absolutely crazy and it inexplicably gets way worse during the winter (maybe the rubber shrinking in the cold). I swear, if it was just a stupid $5 bushing this whole time...
Well? Was it the bushing?
@@Stranger_In_The_Alps It actually wasn't! Turns out my new driver's side strut replacement was internally faulty in a way that couldn't be replicated by bouncing the car. Swapped and it's good now 👍 but I replaced that bushing anyway
Bought all my parts before I saw your video. Same two items I am replacing. I bought the same exact parts. Kinda funny. Good video. What was your conclusion? Did it fix your issues? Are the parts lasting?
Man I remember doing the links on my old Camry. It sure was an ordeal! Especially those lower nuts, couldn’t get a tool back there easily.
Yeah those lower nuts face the wrong way to get proper leverage. I believe on the 07+ models they both face outwards
Thanks for the help, dad ❤️❤️❤️
Welcome
YOUR VIDEOS ARE FKN EXCELLENT.
🙏🏼 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Great job Speedy! Looks like you may need to do a video on replacing the LCA.
Yes that's a good idea...maybe in the future, those arms are difficult to get out with that engine mount in the way!
I am going to make that soon. Thanks for the video. It's great help for me.
Yes , unbolt the chassis ! Thanks for the heads up, buddy !!! :-)
Yes you gotta drop it to change those bushings
Great video. Definitely gonna get a shop to do mine.
Yeah due to the subframe drop and very tight bolts....this isn't a straight forward R&R
I know I'm watching at the same guy video with the trademark toothbrush, detailed information at a fast speed (for me) hah. Thanks for the video
unsure if mine were bad , but at $20, i went ahead and cut my sway links off as well in order to install my new struts plus the new links.
Well worth it
I think the swig bar bushings is the cause of my corolla noise. I have changed outer tie rod and swig bar link but noise still there. I think either bushing or strut/shock. Thanks for the video.
I wouldn't use anti-seize on the bolts if they have a nylok. Besides, how often do you change stab links? Probably the last time before that thing goes to car heaven, honestly.
Still thumbed it up, tho. Solidarity, comrade.
apparently he doesnt care
@@stoned12345678910 Apparently, I noticed. What the fuck is your point?
I use anti seize on everything. Our cars rust here alot, even if I have to change struts in the future the link has to come off regardless.
He will have to undo them when he replaces the struts
Awesome video, perfectly explained, thank you so much!.
You are welcome
Question...if an open end wrench was used, would the subframe issue have been avoided?
And that why u never use a grinder inside the car wheel well. Is there any point of using a torque wrench to torque down to a specific value when using anti seize? Surely the presence of anti-seize affect the torque resistance?
Yes the anti seize will affect the torque
2006 Solara 3.3 SLE... so I just did mine including end links and struts... i was freaked out at some of the vids but let me say it was NO WHERE as difficult as people have posted. I did mine from underneath but ONE side at a time (why? I live on 3 acres and if ANYTHING happened such as a jack stand/jack failure its RIP me)- from underneath i had full access to the mid section bushings... yes space is tight but i did it with a 1/4 drive for the easy access bolt and a 12mm combo wrench from underneath.... at one point the only thing connected was the UNJACKED end link. As I was also doing the struts when I was done with the jacked side completely including installed mid section bushing I went to the other side- passenger side.. the bolt closest to the front is a little easier to access from underneath when tightening with a 1/4" drive. IF I had someone at the house for sure jacking BOTH sides would have been easier but not by a lot as from underneath you can really do almost ALL. I hope this helps. IF I ever have to do this again its a 45 min repair. i hope this helps... i got a few short vids but it really wasnt so difficult to warrant any pics or vids
Thank U bud, i was waiting for this video as my 03 lexus ES300 Bushings are on last leg ! i am glad u made it look easy for me ! i Thank U , i do have click and some beng noise coming from front passenger side whenever i am moving from stop Sign and turning at same time or trying to move in rush , people says my CV Excel ! any ideas ! Thanks for the video , i never did my oil change till last year Christmas ! bought this bit up 03 lexus ES300 at 211 K miles , after watching your trimming belt videos for more than 5 dozen time i did managed to do Timing belt , water pump and whole kit replacement with new Valve cover Gaskets and intek gaskets . i am very happy to say that u helped me a lot with fixing my car, i appreciate Your work and all these help full straight to the point videos. this christmas and new year plan is to fix that CV excel and Bushings. Thank You , Happy Holidays and New Year , merry Christmas.
I'm glad my videos help and encourage you to do your own car repair.
@@speedkar99 Thank You , do u know If my 03 Lexus ES300 needs differential fluid ! ? Its front wheel drive, is it rarely easy to do that I guess just drain and fill , I also have 12 Sienna AWD has transfercase and rear differential as well at 75k miles , I been to Toyota and been told lifetime WS ATF don't need tontouch it ! Should I just drain and filled with Toyota WS . ? Please let me if u have came across these situation. Thanks
@@tofanibantu1 Whose "lifetime"? No such thing as ATF that should never be changed. Check the recommended service interval for your differential. I changed mine in my LS400 at 160K because I wasn't sure that it had been done at 90k. I regretted that because the gear oil looked very good and the exactly correct replacement was a little hard to find. If you replace yours, be sure to remove the filler plug before the drain plug.
03 es300 is just transmission fluid. The differential is built in to trans they use the same fluid. Transaxle is what they say. Tiv fluid but I use valvoline import atf on my es300 2003. There's magnets that can catch metal so it's worth dropping the trans pan once to clean. Use same filter. Very possible to use a wrench to drop the trans pan it's a pain but my dewalt 10mm box wrench has just the right angle so I don't have to raise the trans. Idk about your other car.
I'm glad I dont live in Canada... I've seen images of how nasty the underside and components are on vehicles there
Same here. I guess they were the original sway bar links in my car but they were crazy tight. It took me 4 hours to remove and replace it. ( I also had to go twice to Home Depot to buy a couple wrenches).
Yeah these links are tough to remove. Most of the time it results in the angle grinder method
@@speedkar99 I had no idea this job could involve all that. major clunking in the front and back of my 4cyl. I hope it's roomier lol
Excellent instructions! TY!
So that was the reason? I have the same problem do you think I would have to replace the bushings too ? Or just the Sway Bar links
I only raised one side of the vehicle at a time and I had a lot of trouble reattaching bushing to the sway bar, I had to use pry bars and a jack with a brick to push the bracket close enough to the sway bar to start the bolts back in, is this normal?
You have to lift both sides. When the wheels are level with each other the sway bar has no tension.
I went through most of my front suspension changing all manner of bushings etc, only to realise it was the wheel bearing that was creating the crashing noise over bumps. Never had that effect before
Whoa, a wheel bearing?
@@speedkar99 yeah, admittedly it's on an old heavy jag but I checked absolutely everything else because the sound was crashy, like something else in the suspension. Just goes to show, always check the thing when you think "it really can't be that". Guess mileage is a big one with wheel bearings too, throw in new ones so they don't throw you :-)
Disappointed you did not try some heat first before taking out the grinder! That was a lot of work. Great video nonetheless! Thanks
Heat... In the middle of winter. 🤔
Yes, same thought. Torch
Do the back wheels have these as well? I hear a clucking from the back
Yes they do
5:27 Toothbrush : I love multitasking.
Do you brush your teeth with that brush? 🤣🤣
Nice video You got it 👍
Which side goes up botton ?
Thanks. Arrow usually to the front of the car
What do you think of using polyurethane sway bar bushing? It should not change the comfort much I believe but last much longer than rubber. Toyota parts are all good but the limitation of rubber always bite us in the rear. Common problem in most Toyota, especially rear sway bar bushing.
You'll have to keep them lubricated
@@speedkar99 I heard teflon tape combined with grease need no regreasing for more than 10 years.
I am going to change the sway bar bushings while I brush my teeth... All in one, before dead than simple, style goes first than safety :)
I find that is better to have the wrench option to hold the sway bar links. The hex in the middle of the stud typically strip on rusty environments.
I had bad experience with that same synthetic lube as swells rubber. When I used it to lube the pins, after 6 months the pins were seized because the rubber ring was swollen
I agree, I prefer having the wrench flats.
That brake grease doesn't work on those pins with rubber o-rings, I ended up taking the o-rings off
@@speedkar99 I replaced the the Rubber portion of the ring and switched to silicon paste instead
What a design.. what a design...
What part of Ontario are you in? I'm in Mt.Brydges which is outside of London area. At least so far we haven't had much snow eh?
Toronto.
I live in the rust belt but I bought a Texas Camry with zero rust nearly so I hope this will be easy for me
That was very real, real issues
According to service info, arrow points forward. Its better to use Molycote Dow Corning 111 silicone grease to lubricate rubber.. its super slippery and should of keep you new bushings nice and tender for a long time
Thanks for the clarification
Amazing....brother
nice caliper paint job
Thanks. It was a mix of green and silver.
He really makes me laughing 😂, my brother teeth brushed
Hey it's perfect for this job
Just a question my car when I brake the pedal shakes s well as the steering wheel.i replace new brakes and machine the front disk and I notice the sway bar link it’s gone do you think that would be the problem or it’s something else? Thanks for your help
Wheel balance
Dear speedkar99: would be very much appreciated if you can answer this query: although sway bar has been around for many decades, end links(drop links) has only started to appear in the last 15 years or so. What is its function and why it didn't need it before? Thank you very much in advance sir!
Please watch my multi-link suspension video for a full explaination of the sway bar's function.
Mr.Kar If my parts are ok but 10+ years old do you think I should replace with ebay PU bushings from ebay?
I do know NOT to get the cheapest bushings for lexus fronts for a is250/GS300 the rubber used is garbage.
If they are okay then leave them as it is.
My GS350 bushings are 12 years old and don't have any issue
So, 55 ft/lbs for the 18mm bolt link - same for front and rear?
And f & r torque specs for 10mm bolts holding sway bar bushing to frame?
thank you!
I have to loosen subframe on my Saab93 to access arb rear bolts. Did you slacken both sides untill you get movement, i am a little nervous about the procedure!
Yea I was changing both so I loosened both
I bought a couple of Moog sway bar links for my Camry. It's odd that on one of them, I can easily move the joints. On the other, I can't unless I put it in a vise. Are these ok to install?
Yeah they are stiff when new
Same happened to me with Moog one was tight the other not so tight
Should the sway bar bushing let. The bar move left to right?
Great video. Please what could be the cause of this? I hear a creaking noise in my 2008 Toyota Corolla only when I accelerate slowly with my leg on the pedal but the noise goes away as soon as my leg is off the acceleration pedal. Also hear the noise on a bumpy road but more often when the car is moving slowly. Noise seems to disappear when I move at high speed.
Your question was asked months ago I’m just curious Was it your wheel bearing
Have u sent the toothbrush extension kit? It helps with those really hard to reach places like the top of the subframe and such😂 Also doubles as a rust remover 👍🏻
what is anti seize? could you show it?
It's a compound you get in a bottle
It's a paste made from aluminum.
When I replaced my sway bar end links on my scion tc it turned into a couple hour job because the nuts were rusted I ended cutting them off and going to a hardware store to buy a cut off wheel .
Thank you. fresh release
You are welcome !
Gr8 Job brother!!!
Good jobs and thanks for sharing..
Good job
Thanks very much!
Do you know when Removing Sway bar does it Mess up my Alignment?
I'm guessing the pink toothbrush belongs to your wife and the orange one to your brother.
Yes you are right 🤣
belongs to in-laws
Now im thinking that there are more backstories why the two toothbrush are being abuse😂
Same thing happened to me I can't take the bolt off for the sway bar link until now because I don't have a grinder
A grinder is the best $30 you can invest.
I cut apart a whole car with mine, see my latest video
It's six thirty in the morning on Xmas Eve; the video's been up for a half hour, and there are already 113 views and 4 comments? I was gonna say "you have to get up pretty early to beat Speedkar", but it seems you have to do the same to beat his subs! LOL
Haha thanks
I'm an early riser
Good job.
did you do both sides together or just one side? I
Both sides
Does your sway bar touch the lower controlm arm???
Hi, can you remove the nut from bottom using 12mm long socket?
No
Great video, I did mine also.
You couldnt re-tighten the bolt enough to clear it?. Then switch to an open end?
No because the ratchet mechanism won't allow
Ahh what a good brother you are lol. Your coo dude. Subscrip is deserved
What year is your camry and engine ?
You must have the 4 cylinder version. I replaced my swaybar bushings on 03 camry se v6 and it was a beya.... mounting points are so close to the body that i had to use the open end wrench and go at it like an eighth of a turn at the time. The front bolts were just a few microns for clearance between the bracket nut side and the body of vehicle on left side. All 3 bolts came out just fine to my surprise and only 1 broke off. And I drilled it out fairly easily and recut thread.
On other hand, after watching closely, it looks like you may have the v6 , I stand corrected.
Mine is the v6. I was very close to stripping one. But then I tried a different wrench and got it to turn.
I did that mistake at 5:25, putting grease where it should be DRY. Mine is making noise. I'm going to remove, clean, and add plumbing Teflon.
Let me know if that works.
@@speedkar99 Yes. It works. I went to the smoke test, and they told me that part should be dry. Dry like a bone. I saw your video long ago and even other recommended, so I follow the idea and was a mistake. I couldn't add Teflon, it was too tight.
What's the torq ft lbs about on those bolts that hold stabilizer bar bushing down?
I subscribed!!!
Thanks!
Looks like the Moog end links didn’t hold up too well. I got proforged replacements for mine
They didn't say Moog on them but sure look like Moogs
They probably weren't greased like they should be. Also a lot of people install them and never add grease assuming they're greased from the factory...
Also I believe Moog has the grease nipples on the sides... Not the back. Those are likely masterpro or some off brand/cheap link