The C4953 is an NPN power transistor, not a voltage regulator. This is a switch-mode power supply. It first converts AC mains in into DC, which then runs an oscillator at much greater than mains frequency (60 Hz, here in the U.S./50 Hz in U.K. and Australia) which gets stepped down via the transformer. The output is rectified and filtered DC, and some gets fed back to the oscillator via an opto-isolator, which changes the frequency or duty-cycle of the oscillator, thus achieving regulation. The advantage is that, at the higher frequency (> 1 kHz), you can get away with a much smaller transformer, than for a linear power supply, which needs a big, heavy transformer. The disadvantage is the high frequency switching produces RF interference, which is why there’s a metal shielding around that section, otherwise, every radio and TV would pick up all that noise! HTH! 🤠
this is a revised FZ-10. the original had a chip called MADAM which was the hard ware accelerator, a chip called CLEO which was the controller for the DMA and timers and a DSP chip by the disc drive for the stereo sound. the revised version got rid of these and used the large single chip solution called ANVIL. however, revisions that used the ANVIL had lower game performance, making it a poorer version of the console
16:00 That battery serves as the power for the internal SRAM storage for saving games, similar to the Sega Saturn. The 3DO doesn't actually keep track or ask for a date/time.
13:12 - I thought the same thing when I pulled off the tamper seal on my PS2 Slim. Lol! 30:27 - It was probably to save cost on the system much like the Atari Jaguar's missing dust covers over the cartridge slot. Remember, this system started for over $499 when it was released and competed with the much cheaper Sega Genesis/Mega Drive, Nintendo SNES, and Atari Jaguar. Besides, what better way to show hate for your friends when they beat you than to throw your controller during a bad multiplayer game, and they lose their controller, too!
Those CD drive pins, all you have to do is pull them from the top, comes right out! Also, I make noice reduction laser gears so the system isn't obnoxiously loud. Not sure if youre resaling that or keeping it, but if you are keeping it and want it quieter hit me up. I'll gladly give you my instagram and all the information I've picked up since I've started collecting 3DO consoles incase you run into problems. I'm planning to overclock a spare I currently have.
Hard to say. There are some decent games for it, and it's definitely unique. You'll have a hard time finding one working for under $100. On the plus side, it reads burned discs without any mod required.
This reply is pretty old now, but maybe you or @RetroRepairs can tell me what a particular chip does on this board that I am not very familiar with. Top left corner of the board where the 45 degree cut is, right below that is the first ribbon cable connector for the laser assembly, and right below that connector is a chip surrounded what looks to be a lot of resistors. Would you know what that chip actually does? Mine looks like one leg "might" be burned out, but then again, could be just oxidation I'm having a tough time getting rid of. Can't get the disc to spin and gets stuck clicking when the laser head is in the home position. I know there's a microswitch in there that I'm dealing with, but I want to know what that one chip on the board does anyways. Appreciate any insight.
The Multiplayer on the 3DO label refers to its capability to play CD, 3DO, VideoCD (with the add on), photo CD and CD+G. Not a CD player Not a video cassette player But a multiplayer
I just brought a 3DO off e-bay. It powered up fine and loaded the sampler disk. However when I tried a copied disk, it loaded then crashed during play. Then the console would power up with the red light and 3DO image on the screen but not allow me to open the disc tray. Now it won’t power on at all and I’ve changed the plug fuse. Any suggestions or help?
I had heard that the FZ-10 had a chip revision that made playing back up copies of games impossible and lead to some game incompatibilities on units after July-August. Seeing how yours is dated October I see that may have been false.
The cynical sprite. That's interesting, I'm not very familiar with the 3do like that, so perhaps there were exceptions? Or just one of those things somebody made up.
I was browsing through some forums as I plan on getting an FZ-10 this thursday and that was just something I had seen. People kept saying to avoid any that came out after summer-early fall of 95. They say it's the revised chip set called the "anvil", (which might explain the missing chips in your unit) that causes the issues.
The missing ROM chip is for arcade use. There is a guy that came across a system board from an arcade cabinet that had the second ROM chip populated. Most of the time they're labelled with what ever game is specific to the cabinet used.
ROM2 is also more commonly used for the KANJI chip in Japanese systems. This is necessary to provide the Kanji characters in some Japanese games. Those games won't load without it on the board. This is probably a PAL FZ-10 hence the combined ANVIL chip. Service manual can be found here elektrotanya.com/cgi-bin/download2.cgi?fid=306007&file=panasonic_fz-10.pdf
Well it has this problem that the motor spins like when you power the console then after that it doesn't do anything and the laser doesn't move at all.... I go to power it on and after it hasn't been on for a while and it works when you power it on the first time.. when u turn it off then on everything stops working basically... so power is the problem I think
The Classic Gamer Dude does it happen with all discs? Cds and games? I've not worked on an original xbox before, but from what I've read, that's a fairly common issue with some models. In some cases, the drive motor has failed needs replacing. In other cases it just needs cleaning. Id be happy to look, but I'm not sure how economical it is for you to ship me the xbox when a whole drive replacement is probably a fairly cheap fix if there's anybody local who can do that.
Yeah well I already have one that just needs a new laser and I'm doing that tomorrow but I just wanted 2 working ones.... yeah it was just a thought with the DVD drive wanted to see if u could help
The Classic Gamer Dude ah, I gotcha. Well, like I said, I'd be happy to do it, but for what shipping her and back for an xbox would cost, you could probably buy a new one.
A lot of disinformation here. Basic AC plug to DC converter. This is basic electrical know how. Polarity never matter while working with AC. What if you rotate the cable in the wall socket lol.
Although the unit will function fine regardless of the polarity when using AC, mamufactures make the plugs only inserted a certain way to prevent any part of the circuit to be connected to the HOT wire when the switch is off. In these cases, when using the corresponding cable, you'll notice that one of the prongs to the outlet is larger than the other to make it so you can only plug it in the same way. This is only done to adhere to a safety standard in some places and has nothing to do with the operation of the unit.
The C4953 is an NPN power transistor, not a voltage regulator. This is a switch-mode power supply. It first converts AC mains in into DC, which then runs an oscillator at much greater than mains frequency (60 Hz, here in the U.S./50 Hz in U.K. and Australia) which gets stepped down via the transformer. The output is rectified and filtered DC, and some gets fed back to the oscillator via an opto-isolator, which changes the frequency or duty-cycle of the oscillator, thus achieving regulation. The advantage is that, at the higher frequency (> 1 kHz), you can get away with a much smaller transformer, than for a linear power supply, which needs a big, heavy transformer. The disadvantage is the high frequency switching produces RF interference, which is why there’s a metal shielding around that section, otherwise, every radio and TV would pick up all that noise! HTH! 🤠
this is a revised FZ-10. the original had a chip called MADAM which was the hard ware accelerator, a chip called CLEO which was the controller for the DMA and timers and a DSP chip by the disc drive for the stereo sound. the revised version got rid of these and used the large single chip solution called ANVIL. however, revisions that used the ANVIL had lower game performance, making it a poorer version of the console
some great info! i read something about the anvil chip and was confused on what it was. this summed it up! thank you.
Great clean up job! That disc tray lid really pops! Good buy!
16:00 That battery serves as the power for the internal SRAM storage for saving games, similar to the Sega Saturn. The 3DO doesn't actually keep track or ask for a date/time.
11:03 Microferrets? You're telling me ferrets live in capasitors? I'd believe it
How else do you think the charge is maintained? Ferrets are great for circuits
@@RetroRepairs Units of Microfarads. Microferrets made me laugh :D
There was a rumored M2 chip that could be added to the 3DO, but the company died before it could be implemented.
Very lucky find to get it in working order.
Andrew Fillhart yeah, I was very happy with how it turned out.
good video but with all that work you could have lubricated the laser gears and replaced the long dead battery
I had one. My first game for it was Road & Track Presents Need For Speed.
Wow you're posting a lot of videos today. I'm liking this
obviously I prefer the original Panasonic 3DO revision with the front loader, but I love the minimalist design of the Fz10, both are sexy consoles
13:12 - I thought the same thing when I pulled off the tamper seal on my PS2 Slim. Lol!
30:27 - It was probably to save cost on the system much like the Atari Jaguar's missing dust covers over the cartridge slot. Remember, this system started for over $499 when it was released and competed with the much cheaper Sega Genesis/Mega Drive, Nintendo SNES, and Atari Jaguar. Besides, what better way to show hate for your friends when they beat you than to throw your controller during a bad multiplayer game, and they lose their controller, too!
Those CD drive pins, all you have to do is pull them from the top, comes right out! Also, I make noice reduction laser gears so the system isn't obnoxiously loud. Not sure if youre resaling that or keeping it, but if you are keeping it and want it quieter hit me up. I'll gladly give you my instagram and all the information I've picked up since I've started collecting 3DO consoles incase you run into problems. I'm planning to overclock a spare I currently have.
Also want to say, the 3DO has some amazing titles despite all the forums that bash the poor thing. It was an underdog and poorly support for the time.
Undead Samurai hey, I'm interested. I've already sold this unit, but if I get another it could be a good video to show replacement
Hard to say. There are some decent games for it, and it's definitely unique. You'll have a hard time finding one working for under $100.
On the plus side, it reads burned discs without any mod required.
k ll glad you enjoy the videos. Good luck if you are going to look for one.
This reply is pretty old now, but maybe you or @RetroRepairs can tell me what a particular chip does on this board that I am not very familiar with. Top left corner of the board where the 45 degree cut is, right below that is the first ribbon cable connector for the laser assembly, and right below that connector is a chip surrounded what looks to be a lot of resistors. Would you know what that chip actually does? Mine looks like one leg "might" be burned out, but then again, could be just oxidation I'm having a tough time getting rid of. Can't get the disc to spin and gets stuck clicking when the laser head is in the home position. I know there's a microswitch in there that I'm dealing with, but I want to know what that one chip on the board does anyways. Appreciate any insight.
The Multiplayer on the 3DO label refers to its capability to play CD, 3DO, VideoCD (with the add on), photo CD and CD+G.
Not a CD player
Not a video cassette player
But a multiplayer
No CD music?
@@elvinechevarria8079 not just CD
Didn't the some controllers daisy chain for 3DO?
Yes
Very helpful, thanks for posting this!
I've heard of 3DO but this is my first time seeing one
There's a few different variations even manufactured by different companies, not just Panasonic
I've played GEX on PC, I really liked it.
I just brought a 3DO off e-bay. It powered up fine and loaded the sampler disk. However when I tried a copied disk, it loaded then crashed during play. Then the console would power up with the red light and 3DO image on the screen but not allow me to open the disc tray. Now it won’t power on at all and I’ve changed the plug fuse. Any suggestions or help?
Great video. I had a 3DO back in the day. The best games were Gex, Need For Speed, Road Rash and Battlesport. Try and get them all :)
I had heard that the FZ-10 had a chip revision that made playing back up copies of games impossible and lead to some game incompatibilities on units after July-August. Seeing how yours is dated October I see that may have been false.
The cynical sprite. That's interesting, I'm not very familiar with the 3do like that, so perhaps there were exceptions? Or just one of those things somebody made up.
I was browsing through some forums as I plan on getting an FZ-10 this thursday and that was just something I had seen. People kept saying to avoid any that came out after summer-early fall of 95. They say it's the revised chip set called the "anvil", (which might explain the missing chips in your unit) that causes the issues.
Nice video wasn't expecting a 3DO so that's pretty cool
3do was actually a pretty good system for its time.
I’ve got 1 of these and two FZ-1’s
The missing ROM chip is for arcade use. There is a guy that came across a system board from an arcade cabinet that had the second ROM chip populated. Most of the time they're labelled with what ever game is specific to the cabinet used.
Pha Q cool to know, thanks.
ROM2 is also more commonly used for the KANJI chip in Japanese systems. This is necessary to provide the Kanji characters in some Japanese games. Those games won't load without it on the board. This is probably a PAL FZ-10 hence the combined ANVIL chip. Service manual can be found here elektrotanya.com/cgi-bin/download2.cgi?fid=306007&file=panasonic_fz-10.pdf
Nah, it's a North American unit. The power rating at the bottom says 120V.
Travis Combs correct, it's definitely a North American model.
Thanks, just seen that. ANVIL must have been used in later NTSE models as well.
Hi, did you burned that GEX into the cd-r in .iso format or in .bin .cue?
This was a R.E.A.L meme
Nice job man!
Hey can u try to fix this Original Xbox that I have? It is a problem with the DVD drive?? I know it's a random question but I just thought about it.
The Classic Gamer Dude what's the problem with it? Disc read issues?
Well it has this problem that the motor spins like when you power the console then after that it doesn't do anything and the laser doesn't move at all.... I go to power it on and after it hasn't been on for a while and it works when you power it on the first time.. when u turn it off then on everything stops working basically... so power is the problem I think
The Classic Gamer Dude does it happen with all discs? Cds and games?
I've not worked on an original xbox before, but from what I've read, that's a fairly common issue with some models. In some cases, the drive motor has failed needs replacing. In other cases it just needs cleaning. Id be happy to look, but I'm not sure how economical it is for you to ship me the xbox when a whole drive replacement is probably a fairly cheap fix if there's anybody local who can do that.
Yeah well I already have one that just needs a new laser and I'm doing that tomorrow but I just wanted 2 working ones.... yeah it was just a thought with the DVD drive wanted to see if u could help
The Classic Gamer Dude ah, I gotcha. Well, like I said, I'd be happy to do it, but for what shipping her and back for an xbox would cost, you could probably buy a new one.
Cool video😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
A lot of disinformation here. Basic AC plug to DC converter. This is basic electrical know how. Polarity never matter while working with AC. What if you rotate the cable in the wall socket lol.
Although the unit will function fine regardless of the polarity when using AC, mamufactures make the plugs only inserted a certain way to prevent any part of the circuit to be connected to the HOT wire when the switch is off. In these cases, when using the corresponding cable, you'll notice that one of the prongs to the outlet is larger than the other to make it so you can only plug it in the same way. This is only done to adhere to a safety standard in some places and has nothing to do with the operation of the unit.
fine reborn.
🕹