I love these videos man. So satisfying to see these things get transformed from crusty old junk into clean and shiny stuff that's in good working condition.
@RetroRepairs All you would have needed given your ingredients is your 30 volume hair dye cream with no different result compared with what you got. Not to mention the anticipated fuzz once your stuff gets yellow again and you have to repeat this process. You don’t even need solid sun even with the cream on its own. All you need is a bit of sun exposure during the day. Even sun light through your window during high winter is enough to get the results you want though you might have to continue the process for a some what longer period of time during winter. I’m Scandinavian and living there and I have no trouble retrobrighting even during winter through the window, most often with very good result. The 30 digit description on your bottle has nothing to do with its amount of hydrogen peroxide content nor the activator you used since it’s already in the cream you used (hence the dying effect of the cream all on its own). The digit 30 only tells you what volume the cream has so referring to its thickness, in this case thickness 30. The activator you used is unnecessary and might make the process too fast while also making it more crucial to massage the plastic a bit more often if it has a tendency to streak. If you hadn’t used this cream but rather pure hydrogen peroxide liquid then you might have had to use this recipe unless soaking it completely within a more pure hydrogen peroxide liquid, which would turn out very expensive contrary to using retrobright or simply this cream. In order to not have the cream dry out and change the result or even lose effect you also need to trap the liquid/cream within some kind of enclosure such as a bag or wrapping or the likes. In order to be on the safe side. I’d guess your specific hair cream has between 6 and 12 percent hydrogen peroxide given its intended use (hair dye) as well as your result, which is great as a retrobright substitute with no fuzz. 6-12 percent is ideal as far as I’ve heard others say. This correlates with my own findings and I use nothing else than such a hair cream richly sprinkled over the plastic object within a plastic zip lock bag. I usually use a volume 40 cream (12% hydrogen peroxide) so the cream is quite thick with a tendency to stick unevenly onto the plastic object. Without diluting it a little to make it a little bit runnier the objects I want to de-yellow have a tendency to some times develop streaking. This doesn’t happen if I mix a little bit of distilled water into the cream and massage the object within the mixture every now and then during the sun exposure process. I simply put everything within a zip lock plastic bag, squirt everything in there and initially massage for a little while in order to mix and spread evenly and then simply leave it sitting. Then I come back and massage it some more every now and then until I figure it’s done by comparing it through the plastic with a non-yellowed piece. Usually 4-48 hours of sun exposure depending on amount of yellowing. More or less perfect/even result every time. And lastly The SNES Mini/SNES Jr. that you got there has a much worse picture quality than a normal Super NES has potentially, given the hardware involved. The forte of the SNES Mini/SNES Jr. is that it can be picture signal MODDED giving it the best RGB signal the Super Nintendo can provide given all available models. In other words it can have the best analogue picture possible out of all models through out the SNES’s life span. Give it an RGB mod using the best available tech for SNES and your claim will be true. Otherwise… not by a long shot. What you have there might have been modded (I couldn’t tell since you didn’t move/scroll the screen) but if not is the second worse picture quality possible to get on the SNES, also known as composite (the yellow plug)… which is terrible compared to what the machine actually processes and puts out natively given the right tech. Search “SNES Jr. RGB mod” and buy the right parts if interested or wanting to make the claim.
My biggest complaint with the Snes Jr is the lack of s-video output. When I started getting older consoles, I grabbed a tv with s-video input, a snes jr, and an official Nintendo s-video cable. It wasn't until the cable arrived I learned that the jr. removed the s-video option. I wound up getting an original SNES just because the difference between composite and s-video is really noticeable.
I prefer the one-chip board, but the gen 1 case with the lock mechanism. Under normal circumstances you can't have them both, but you can buy one of each and combine them.
I didn’t have that Super Nintendo 2 but I played the Original Super Nintendo in the 90’s and I played Super Nintendo at Time Creek High School In Orlando in Mrs Ambrose’s Class.
That looks exactly like the game cartridge case that was stolen from me in 2014. It had all my games in it. Yep SMW was one of them, Cim City, NBA JAM, a Basebal Game, Tin Star, two Super Scope 6 cartridges, a Super Gameboy, two super gameboy games... and my name Justin B was written on the back of some of the cartridges in magic marker. My console, Power Cord, controllers, A Racing Cartridge, Galaga Gameboy, Just a ton of stuff I bought since I was 7 years old. I paid $400 for the SNES Console when it was new in 1991, I believe from Toys R Us. My Birthday is March 4th, and I'm trying to start over. I hear the SNES Mini will not play all the games? Seems like these consoles are getting harder and harder to find "working ones". I have tape on my finger too right now lol. What is it with that. Must be an SNES thing ;) Those caps look lower quality than original SNES Consoles? The Console was in a big black Console Case that was generic for multiple game consoles. It had a drawer with 3 slots on the bottom. I think there was a red Vegitales eraser in the drawer and a bunch of manuals. I contacted the thief and they claim they don't know what they did with all of it. I figured they pawned it. The SD2SNES PRO sounds very fun. Why didn't they ever just convert these to USB power, instead of 9v? a 5v voltage regulator would work just fine. Just needs 1A USB. DE-yellowing seems very expensive! It's good to know how though. My original SNES never yellowed.
Hi Fellow Canadian !! :D Where do you get your recipe for that Retr0brite ? :) I saw a lot of version and I'm kinda unsure .. I read on another site that's its better if the mixture don't dry but yours did and didn't seem to cause problem.
can be spray painted to prevent yellowing again. don't use the typical industrial ones, use spray paint for scale model. those will preserve detail & wont make them look painted. in fact scale model paint is made to look not painted.
Is your SNES Jr still gray? I Retrobrited 2 Japanese Sega Saturns before and over time they began turning back to the yellow color. Others have said that Retrobright is only a temporary solution.
hi from london..we didnt get the north american snes2 mini console over here in UK..recently theres been a number of retro console clones like the retron range and a few others..I found one I liked the look of that only does snes NOT sega or nes included..its called Super Players and soon noticed its similiarity with the 1997 version as shown on this video..the cases are apparently identical and now I have now seen inside one of these snes2 minis for the first time..I havnt opened mine its quite new..the only noticable external difference is the a/v connector is not nintendo proprietary socket..its standard yellow/red/white RCA and Svideo on mine..be interesting to see if the chips are same or close eh? thanks for the quality video..Specs
For the handful of famiclones out there it's a nintendo on a chip, and doesn't support 100%. for the NES . As for a retron I believe for SNES it's just a emulator like BSNES or something.
Light ones are usually third party replicas. Technically they don't HAVE to be heavy. Technology has just improved in the 25 years since these came out
My nintendo work and one day it suddenly stopped working and idk the cause of it. Its been a couple of months since it stopped. I just thought maybe it has something to do with the AC Adapter.
You were comparing the picture quality of the SNES 101 vs the SNES 001, but the SNES 101 is RF only, right? And for the comparison, was the SNES 001 using an RF connector or the composite connectors?
Both were using composite. The snes-101 has no Rf, it only has the av multi out, however the NES-101 had composite connectors removed. That could be what you were thinking of
In Brazil, the SNES-101 had RF instead of AV. There was no multi out conector there. This is why the board has the space for the RF parts. It was used for other countries as well.
great channel and as for the retro bright if you don't know there is some stuff you can get on amazon or in a beauty supply store that is basically retro bright in a bottle
AJ Green yes, it will eventually return. Some cases are faster than others. If you leave it in sunlight all day, it will be quicker. Mine all live in a basement with minimal natural light so it will probably last longer. We'll see in a few months I guess
You should make your "Retrobrite" mixture a commercial product. Just sayin'... For the novelty, provide a tray and easy steps instructions, Bam, you're in business.
"I have no idea if it's on." Gee, if only there was a power switch with a distinct on/off position that you could look at that would tell you if it was on or off...
I think you (and the people who liked your comment) didn't understand what he meant... The LED allows him to know whether the power is dead or not without hooking up the console to the TV. He was obviously not saying that it's difficult to tell whether the position of the switch is on or off. Maybe you should think twice before implying that the guy's an idiot, because he clearly isn't.
Great video! Just ordered a SNES Jr. and an original copy of Earthbound. Now if my consoles ever yellow, you’ve taught me something useful.
I love these videos man. So satisfying to see these things get transformed from crusty old junk into clean and shiny stuff that's in good working condition.
The console looks really good after the yellow removal. Very satisfying process to watch. Thanks for taking the time to post the video.
@RetroRepairs
All you would have needed given your ingredients is your 30 volume hair dye cream with no different result compared with what you got. Not to mention the anticipated fuzz once your stuff gets yellow again and you have to repeat this process. You don’t even need solid sun even with the cream on its own. All you need is a bit of sun exposure during the day. Even sun light through your window during high winter is enough to get the results you want though you might have to continue the process for a some what longer period of time during winter. I’m Scandinavian and living there and I have no trouble retrobrighting even during winter through the window, most often with very good result.
The 30 digit description on your bottle has nothing to do with its amount of hydrogen peroxide content nor the activator you used since it’s already in the cream you used (hence the dying effect of the cream all on its own).
The digit 30 only tells you what volume the cream has so referring to its thickness, in this case thickness 30. The activator you used is unnecessary and might make the process too fast while also making it more crucial to massage the plastic a bit more often if it has a tendency to streak.
If you hadn’t used this cream but rather pure hydrogen peroxide liquid then you might have had to use this recipe unless soaking it completely within a more pure hydrogen peroxide liquid, which would turn out very expensive contrary to using retrobright or simply this cream. In order to not have the cream dry out and change the result or even lose effect you also need to trap the liquid/cream within some kind of enclosure such as a bag or wrapping or the likes. In order to be on the safe side.
I’d guess your specific hair cream has between 6 and 12 percent hydrogen peroxide given its intended use (hair dye) as well as your result, which is great as a retrobright substitute with no fuzz. 6-12 percent is ideal as far as I’ve heard others say. This correlates with my own findings and I use nothing else than such a hair cream richly sprinkled over the plastic object within a plastic zip lock bag.
I usually use a volume 40 cream (12% hydrogen peroxide) so the cream is quite thick with a tendency to stick unevenly onto the plastic object. Without diluting it a little to make it a little bit runnier the objects I want to de-yellow have a tendency to some times develop streaking. This doesn’t happen if I mix a little bit of distilled water into the cream and massage the object within the mixture every now and then during the sun exposure process. I simply put everything within a zip lock plastic bag, squirt everything in there and initially massage for a little while in order to mix and spread evenly and then simply leave it sitting. Then I come back and massage it some more every now and then until I figure it’s done by comparing it through the plastic with a non-yellowed piece. Usually 4-48 hours of sun exposure depending on amount of yellowing. More or less perfect/even result every time.
And lastly
The SNES Mini/SNES Jr. that you got there has a much worse picture quality than a normal Super NES has potentially, given the hardware involved. The forte of the SNES Mini/SNES Jr. is that it can be picture signal MODDED giving it the best RGB signal the Super Nintendo can provide given all available models. In other words it can have the best analogue picture possible out of all models through out the SNES’s life span. Give it an RGB mod using the best available tech for SNES and your claim will be true. Otherwise… not by a long shot. What you have there might have been modded (I couldn’t tell since you didn’t move/scroll the screen) but if not is the second worse picture quality possible to get on the SNES, also known as composite (the yellow plug)… which is terrible compared to what the machine actually processes and puts out natively given the right tech.
Search “SNES Jr. RGB mod” and buy the right parts if interested or wanting to make the claim.
To remagnatize the screw driver use a refrigerator magnet and just touch the tip for about 15 seconds
Ever thought about restoring S-Video and RGB to this? Both those video outputs look amazing on this SNES revision.
Hey it's Billy Mayes here, and I'm gonna show you how to clean your Super Nintendo with Oxyclean!
I'm lovin the repair vids man. I just stumbled upon this channel. I just finished doing a back light mod on my gameboy advance original.
LetsPlayCassics thanks! I haven't ventured into any handhelds myself, might have to hunt down a game boy, or maybe something more obscure
My biggest complaint with the Snes Jr is the lack of s-video output. When I started getting older consoles, I grabbed a tv with s-video input, a snes jr, and an official Nintendo s-video cable. It wasn't until the cable arrived I learned that the jr. removed the s-video option. I wound up getting an original SNES just because the difference between composite and s-video is really noticeable.
There is a mod which makes the snes jr output s video, but for some reason they don't have the circuitry run to the multi-out
I prefer the one-chip board, but the gen 1 case with the lock mechanism. Under normal circumstances you can't have them both, but you can buy one of each and combine them.
Yah
K K the 1 Chip can come in the original case, you don’t need to combine it
I don't know about the US version but the early PAL version of the N64 RF adapter literally says on the box suits SNS 101 as well as PAL N64.
I didn’t have that Super Nintendo 2 but I played the Original Super Nintendo in the 90’s and I played Super Nintendo at Time Creek High School In Orlando in Mrs Ambrose’s Class.
That looks exactly like the game cartridge case that was stolen from me in 2014. It had all my games in it. Yep SMW was one of them, Cim City, NBA JAM, a Basebal Game, Tin Star, two Super Scope 6 cartridges, a Super Gameboy, two super gameboy games... and my name Justin B was written on the back of some of the cartridges in magic marker. My console, Power Cord, controllers, A Racing Cartridge, Galaga Gameboy, Just a ton of stuff I bought since I was 7 years old. I paid $400 for the SNES Console when it was new in 1991, I believe from Toys R Us. My Birthday is March 4th, and I'm trying to start over. I hear the SNES Mini will not play all the games? Seems like these consoles are getting harder and harder to find "working ones". I have tape on my finger too right now lol. What is it with that. Must be an SNES thing ;) Those caps look lower quality than original SNES Consoles? The Console was in a big black Console Case that was generic for multiple game consoles. It had a drawer with 3 slots on the bottom. I think there was a red Vegitales eraser in the drawer and a bunch of manuals. I contacted the thief and they claim they don't know what they did with all of it. I figured they pawned it. The SD2SNES PRO sounds very fun. Why didn't they ever just convert these to USB power, instead of 9v? a 5v voltage regulator would work just fine. Just needs 1A USB. DE-yellowing seems very expensive! It's good to know how though. My original SNES never yellowed.
Hi Fellow Canadian !! :D Where do you get your recipe for that Retr0brite ? :) I saw a lot of version and I'm kinda unsure .. I read on another site that's its better if the mixture don't dry but yours did and didn't seem to cause problem.
Saya jiin I found a website with a few different formulae, just picked one with stuff I mostly had or that was easy to get ingredients for
I never got in touch with snes mini. Looks nice, but I prefer the classic style
The SNES model 101 kinda resembles a Sega Genesis...
can be spray painted to prevent yellowing again. don't use the typical industrial ones, use spray paint for scale model. those will preserve detail & wont make them look painted. in fact scale model paint is made to look not painted.
Mine wont turn of I was using it a couple of ago😫😫
Is your SNES Jr still gray? I Retrobrited 2 Japanese Sega Saturns before and over time they began turning back to the yellow color. Others have said that Retrobright is only a temporary solution.
You found a great deal are you selling the cartridge holder
hi from london..we didnt get the north american snes2 mini console over here in UK..recently theres been a number of retro console clones like the retron range and a few others..I found one I liked the look of that only does snes NOT sega or nes included..its called Super Players and soon noticed its similiarity with the 1997 version as shown on this video..the cases are apparently identical and now I have now seen inside one of these snes2 minis for the first time..I havnt opened mine its quite new..the only noticable external difference is the a/v connector is not nintendo proprietary socket..its standard yellow/red/white RCA and Svideo on mine..be interesting to see if the chips are same or close eh? thanks for the quality video..Specs
For the handful of famiclones out there it's a nintendo on a chip, and doesn't support 100%. for the NES .
As for a retron I believe for SNES it's just a emulator like BSNES or something.
What de-yellowing method do you use
Quick question. Does the Ac Adapter Black Square has to be heavy. Mine is pretty light.
Light ones are usually third party replicas. Technically they don't HAVE to be heavy. Technology has just improved in the 25 years since these came out
My nintendo work and one day it suddenly stopped working and idk the cause of it. Its been a couple of months since it stopped. I just thought maybe it has something to do with the AC Adapter.
Do you get a power light? If the light won't turn on, it's probably just a fuse that needs replacing
RetroRepairs it wont turn on at all. The light wont turn either.
The hard thing is that I dont know where I can fix it
You were comparing the picture quality of the SNES 101 vs the SNES 001, but the SNES 101 is RF only, right?
And for the comparison, was the SNES 001 using an RF connector or the composite connectors?
Both were using composite. The snes-101 has no Rf, it only has the av multi out, however the NES-101 had composite connectors removed. That could be what you were thinking of
Oh shit, yeah I think you're right. I got confused for a second. My fault!
In Brazil, the SNES-101 had RF instead of AV. There was no multi out conector there. This is why the board has the space for the RF parts. It was used for other countries as well.
I had a super Nintendo junior as a kid . I loved it very much 😎
I love the work man .. fwi just gotta fix the lil spring that goes along the stick
Really diggin your channel man. Keep up the good work.
hey where in Canada are you? I assumed you were down in the states! haha
great channel and as for the retro bright if you don't know there is some stuff you can get on amazon or in a beauty supply store that is basically retro bright in a bottle
como se llama ese desatornillador?
Buscalo como destornillador de Nintendo, usaban esos tornillos en casi todas sus consolas
I bought 2 sets of those game bit screw drivers it's worth it and I bought a tri wing screw driver
Try Hertel Plus works good you can get it at Giant Tiger in Canada.
Eric Vanderende we don't have one of those here yet where I live, but there's talk of it coming
Deyellowing is kind of pointless isn't it? Cause the yellowing will return in about 3 months
if its exposed to uv light for like 20 hours a day then ya it will be yellow
{ES} Sylvenight no it returns regardless.
AJ Green yes, it will eventually return. Some cases are faster than others. If you leave it in sunlight all day, it will be quicker. Mine all live in a basement with minimal natural light so it will probably last longer. We'll see in a few months I guess
RetroRepairs love your videos btw!! Been watching them the past week. Any plans to make anymore?
I certainly do, I've just been crazy busy this summer, so probably pick up more in the fall. I've got one short one I'm finishing up
You should make your "Retrobrite" mixture a commercial product. Just sayin'... For the novelty, provide a tray and easy steps instructions, Bam, you're in business.
I had this console as kid. Play donkey Kong country 1&2 and mega man x as kid. Yes it is cheaper version of remake of snes.
I had one of those when I grew up :)
0:56 where my ocd struck
Nintendo makes great games and systems
Would you like to sell it?
The snes? Yeah I would sell it, I still have it
Get a tripod, man! You're doing pretty good!
I like the old original super Nintendo snes 001
You call it glycerin and not glycerol. I already love Canada.
Salon Care 40 Clear is what you want
The mini is a 1 Chip
"I have no idea if it's on."
Gee, if only there was a power switch with a distinct on/off position that you could look at that would tell you if it was on or off...
I think you (and the people who liked your comment) didn't understand what he meant... The LED allows him to know whether the power is dead or not without hooking up the console to the TV. He was obviously not saying that it's difficult to tell whether the position of the switch is on or off. Maybe you should think twice before implying that the guy's an idiot, because he clearly isn't.
awesome channel
A SNES Mini IS a 1Chip, fwiw.
Nice video
the original super Nintendo entertainment system is original
liked and subscribed
I prefer super Nintendo 2
I prefer the o g super Nintendo
That's a snes slim😂😂
FFS! Get a tripod!
You gonna buy it for him? No? Then shut your fucking mouth,
Ola Hansen If you were a real fan and not a mega douche which is what you really are then you would get him a tripod! FFS!
Nice video