Charlie, thank you so much for this video. I painted my kitchen farrow and ball down pipe using precisely your instructions. I used the same handles from the same company who were excellent and the final look was absolutely fantastic. I wouldn’t have tried it without this tutorial. I was quoted £2,300 to have it sprayed yet by doing it myself it cost me £100 in paint and primer and £200 for handles. A 2k saving. Thanks again.
Tip: if you're removing all the doors at once and many are all the same size, discretely number them and the carcass so you know which door goes back where!
Hi Charlie, Fantastic video. Recently repainted our kitchen cabinets with Valspar Wood and Metal paint. Spray painted the cabinets with 2 x coates after initial sanding and priming. As you showed, the paint was initially easy to take off but after 2 months now and the paint is now mature, it is quite durable and difficult to take off. I recommend this brand and having used Valspar in the past, I have had no issues. Keep up the good work. Many youtubers get proud and lose their original personality. You have maintained your humble approach and that impresses me. The quality of videos and details you cover are really good. I trust tour top tips in your videos. It just shows you know what you are doing and advising. 👍😊
Virupaksha, thanks so much for that! At the end of the day the integrity of my channel is so important to me so it's great to hear that it comes across as I intended! It does give me a bit of a headache at times because I'd love to do this full time, but that's my problem to ponder not yours!! Thanks again - I really appreciate your support of the channel!
Thanks for the video. I watched it a few times and gave my kitchen cupboards an overhaul, including new cup handles (your spacing advice was brilliant). It took about three days as I opted for chalk paint and several coats of furniture wax, but your advice and tips made it seamless.
Lovely job and I really like the colour you guys chose. We used the Rustoleum chalk paint in Anthricite with a matt clear varnish sealant afterwards (also Rustoleum) I really loved the finish we got and it looks like a new kitchen, we talked about having a new kitchen fitted but we have an old MFI kitchen which has solid wood doors and we didn't want to change the layout so we decided to paint. We also changed the sink and tap and covered the work tops with DCFix vinyl which has also worked really well.
I've painted few kitchens with valspar eggshell including my own and only time had problem was over BIN primer. I made our doors with Mrmdf, primed with water base polyurethane, sanded, edges treated with filler, primed again and two top coats valspar eggshell. We've got a golden and flat coat retriever that love rolling and scratching paint work. Touch wood no paints chipped or scratches four years on.
Hi, I have laminate kitchen doors and would love a different colour, have read that you can buy specialist primer but can be problematic with the paint taking, do u think it would be worth doing this or just remaking the doors out of mdf?... Thanks 😊
Charlie, I'm a time served decorator and have been in the trade for over 40 years.I assume the paint you used was water based? It's been my experience that water based paints may be easier to apply and dry quicker than oil based paints but they are not as durable as oil based paints.I quite often buy paint from B and Q but always buy the trade version which may be dearer but is much better. ! Great videos 😁
2:46 Absolutely LOVE the sink & faucet👍🏻 Have been a fan if the style since was a kid & Chef (makes washing up so much easier😅).... But it’s just a great look w/ durable lasting materials. Ppl don’t realize that hardware can add up very quickly, especially if you have a lot of drawers & cabinets....... But, it’s one of the easiest ways to “refresh” a kitchen w/ a new look. Another thing I’ve done for clients is vinyl wrapping there cabinets & counter tops with different vinyl brands (Vvivid, 3M, Avery, etc...). Works really well to change a room, desk, cabinet, etc....but I’d only recommend if you have experience; as this can be frustrating to new ppl trying this method.
Rust-oleum Universal Advance Formula All Surface Paint. Just been painting at my daughter's house. I did the outside windows and frames - they were in a sorry state, really horrible. I used Peel Stop on the sills to see if it would do what it said it would and it did! Love the paint. My new favourite. First coat is a bit thin so care needed and the second if needed needs to be generously applied or it seems to drag. Looks great. Today I finished using it on the tiles in the bathroom. Again, excellent. Then I had had enough......back tomorrow. Not ideal weather but I am never in the UK in the summer. Home next week for a rest😂
I was really impressed after painting my newly built bathroom vanity with Rust-oleum’s ‘Bathroom Wood & Cabinet Paint, Satin Finish’. It went onto the pine & ply beautifully (no primer needed) & while installing the rest of the bathroom around it I knocked it about 5 times and it didn’t mark at all when it really should have. Couple of months in & it’s looking fab. Now I might use their kitchen cupboard paint - esp seeing how easily your paint came away from the primer 😬
We have just updated our tired kitchen units and I used the same principle as yourself Charlie. After spending a small fortune on 52 Door handles and 30 drawer handles we thought do we go for a cheaper paint.............We did and like yourself had an F&B mix with the Valspar once dried the missus hated the colour as it looked washed out even after 3 coats, so I went back to B&Q and bit the bullet and actually went with the F&B colour re-done the units from scratch and we are much happier with the outcome. SO MY ANSWER, sometimes you have to go down the expensive route. Keep the videos coming they are great TONY
We used Valspar on the walls and ceiling in the kitchen 2 years ago and I have to say it’s been fine. I have recently removed the door and frame and fitted new ones. This obviously meant some touching up and 2 coats later you cannot see the difference. The walls have been washed down a number of times to clean off splashes etc and none of the paint has come off. It is more expensive than some of the other paints but has done the job. That said, I am now doing the Hall Stairs and Landing and will probably be using Johnsons or Dulux. Hope that helps.
Difficulty go with Johnstone's. The Valspar has chipped horribly in the kitchen but thankfully you can spot repair without it flashing, which is unusual for eggshell.
@@CharlieDIYte I actually topped mine with a hard clear varnish at the recom of the guy who mixed the paint. Same as you though Charlie, units aren't there to stay, so, lesson learnt!
Thanks for this video. I just finished following along to do the same to my kitchen (I even used Railings colour!) and I'm really happy with the result.
Nice one Gary. If you find it chips, I've been recommended Polyvine decorators varnish and Minwax polycrylic protective finish as ways to make it more durable. It's probably the last thing on your mind though after finishing the job!!
Thanks Charlie. I'm finding myself touching it up a bit, but like you said in the video it's a good colour for not showing up too much flashing when I do. I'll definitely get a tin of the Minwax, thanks for the tip.
I have used an exterior valspar paint which, at £29 per litre was quite expensive, but the colour match was very good and the coverage was excellent. So far no chipping or flaking. I am very impressed with it and would use it again without question.
I used Dulux Wheather shield gloss paint on my kitchen cabinet doors. I am the same as you it has been three weeks ago and we have not had any chipping at all, we are very pleased with it.
I've used Valspar eggshell on a surface over the washing machine and tumble dryer - actually a re-purposed already varnished interior door. I prepared very carefully, applying 2 coats but still got some chipping. I'd never used this paint before but knew the brand name, so thought I'd give it a try. Think I'll stick to Johntones in future...
I used the exact same type of paint to cover MDF kickboards in my kitchen (primed with 2-3 coats of BIN. The finish was great after 2 coats applied with a foam roller and so far no chips.
@@CharlieDIYte Plus, the Armstead trade Satin I've used throughout the rest of my house (4x2.5ltr) does chip quite easily. Maybe people just expect too much from water-based paints in general and they should be using oil-based ones if they value durability above ease of use?
Really interesting and very clearly expressed thank you. Just repainted out kitchen in Farrow and Ball and 5 weeks later holding well no chips or marks very happy with the quality. We used the BIN too just like you.
B&Q is cheap and cheerful. Sometimes you get great products backed up by great customer service. Other times... not. The trick is, as you say, judging when you can use their products successfully, and when you have to spend a bit more. Your videos, like this one, can be a great help, but the more DIY you do, the more able you are to judge for yourself. But if you get it right, the savings, and the pleasure, are great. Well done for using Valspar and braving the comments Charlie.
its been my experience that for hardware and some materials service ,B&Q are good, closely followed by homebase, but for pine lumber (go lumber yard if poss) and paint,reverse order. as for wicks ,they seem to have a policy of supporting tools for a year then your scewed ( no pun intended), as for all else they support until theyre bored, and my exp of staff/HO customer support is "why are you bothering me, go away" attitude, i would do without if not available elsewhere. AMAZON preferable to WICKS.
@@vogonpoet5860 It's such a shame isn't it. I always respected Wickes as a brand that was superior to Homebase (obviously) and B&Q being more trade orientated, but there's something obviously endemically wrong with the culture of the business as recently I've had similar experiences with the staff 🤔
@@CharlieDIYte my father used to swear by wicks but after he bought a wicks scroll saw and 6mnths later refused to support it he boycotted them. they just got worse.
Iv just recently made some doors for my garden room and used matt emulsion mixed 50 50 with quickdry diamond hard floor varnish then varnish over top as well that has co e out well,I also build a lot of furniture and I mix my water based satin with the floor varnish as well this mix travels well and is durable,Great videos by the way welldone I like your approach
That's really interesting Dean, and something I might have to try out. What made you use emulsion on the doors, out of interest, rather than the satin as you do on the furniture?
Because emulsion colours are infinite compared to cupboard door paint,I had the grey emulsion and thought it would look good on the cupboard doors but knowing how well emulsion wipes down I thought I'd try mixing it with the floor varnish to make a more stable paint,Now I tend to tip it in everything,I also saw your mdf series I'm a recent subscriber and I use the filler method great series by the way,I use silverhook fine finish 2 part filler it's excellent for laying on endgrain of mdf and £6.40 a tin cheap too it's car filler
@@deanreynolds2027 The problem I have is with stopping a hand painted kitchen table from staining (red wine and the like). I put a lacquer on it but it didn't really work and was a nightmare when I came to repaint it.
Glad to see the valspar coming out.... I’m like yourself, always buy dulux paints or sometimes armstead. But did a job where I had to keep the cost to a minimum and got a colour mixed from the dulux chart in valspar v700 scrubbable matt... the stuff is very good quality and goes on superbly well... price is very cost effective and the customer was very happy indeed! Lovely colour on that kitchen mate👍 Marc
Thanks Marc. Funnily enough I bought a big tub of Valspar contract matt emulsion recently to mist coat our newly replastered bedroom (video to follow) and was surprised to hear from a subscriber that you can't water it down - and sure enough it says that on the tub so I took it back and bought 10litres of Armstead instead. I was tempted to use the Valspar scrubbable emulsion for the kitchen walls until I read the reviews but you're making me think it might be worth the risk 🤔
Ah right yeah always essential to water down contract Matt for a must cost and armstead contract matt is great for this... I tend to ignore reviews on paint for one reason.... they are mainly from people who aren’t painters.... now I’m not a professional decorator by trade but do an awful lot of it when I can fit it in. It’s all about how you apply paint. And let’s face it there are so many factors that can cause a bad paint job. From lack of preparation down to the wrong type of paint being used in a room. I’ll try any brand of paint once.... then make my decision. And valspar pleased me greatly! Dulux diamond Matt in my kitchen though. £73 for 5 litres.... expensive but worth every penny! Now I have recently set up a cash account there I get it a bit cheaper 👍
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Thanks Danny. I probably wouldn't use the Valspar if I had my time again (though don't worry if you've already bought it). It has a propensity to chip although you can at least touch up the chips without the paint flashing.
Really enjoying your channel Charlie. I am far from a DIY god, but I have to say I find your reviews easy to follow, and I actually attempt more jobs myself instead of paying other people. Keep up the good work Sir!!.
Graeme, that's music to my ears, my friend. Thanks so much for your support, and also for taking the time to get in touch. Drop me a line if you ever need any tips on anything 👍
@@CharlieDIYte thats so kind of you for saying thank you. If I may pick your brains quickly please? My next project is trying to take on a bulkhead in my partners house on the third floor, obviously I cannot completely remove as its the ceiling to the stairs leading up to the room but I'm going to attempt to incorporate the slope in to a dog-leg built in wardrobe, as we firstly need more storage space and secondly it takes up so much space in the room. Kinda stuck on exactly where to begin if you get my meaning?
Got a thumbs up from me for your honesty. Iv done a couple of kitchens cabinets jobs and used after a light sanding and wash down with sugar soap used leyland Oil based primer and two coats of oil based eggshell. ( duck egg blue ) looked great.
Thanks mate. Yes, what you described is the proper way to do it. I much prefer oil based but the water based is just so easy and as I don't love painting it kind of makes sense.
I have used several different types of paint on my cabinets/cupboards, the best one so far is The One paint and primer , bought on Amazon. Then I go over it with Rustoleum clear finishing wax. Cheers .
about eight years ago i built mdf fitted wardrobes and used jonstones acrylic eggshell sprayed with a earlex 5000 spray gun and also used a roller on some parts, still looks good to this day even after the wife has hit it with a hoover and god knows what else...............i highly recommend this product. also I do use a lot of bullseye 123 blue can water based can recommend this item its fantastic sticks like you know what to a blanket
Thanks Anthony. Agreed - Johnstones is awesome stuff - my preferred paint supplier. Given my addiction to Zinsser BIN I haven't tried 123 but I need to, as you and many others are raving about it. Also, this Valspar is rubbish and has chipped loads since I did this video. The only good thing about it is you can touch up without any flashing - which is just as well considering how many chips we have!!
@@CharlieDIYte thank you for your reply charlie also look up peter millard review on airless cheap spray gun very good they are cheap about 30 pounds no excuse now for anyone to not spray and you get a spare paint pot. no excuses charlie terratek i think its called what you waiting for !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can easily clean Zinsser shellac-based primer from brushes and rollers using Screwfix no-nonsense degreaser (p/n 88668) - soak then rinse with water. It's about £9 for 5 litres - *much* cheaper than methylated spirits and does a better job.
This eggshell has proved to be a bit average in that it chips quite easily but the plus side is that you can easily touch it up without any flashing/ so you can spot paint without having to do the whole door.
Thank you for this video! Really informative, I will be purchasing a premium paint for our kitchen cupboards based on your update! I really don't want to be doing touch ups every month 😯
Never used the wood and metal paint from valspar. I use the emulsion premium version quite often and never had a problem, even when the kids thinks its a good idea to put their greasy hands all over my walls. It just wipes off with water and a sponge. But that being said i haven't tried to colour match it after. Good tips as usual. Keep the good content coming 👍
If you are looking for handles (and anything kitchen hardware related, hinges, lifts etc etc) I have been using a company called LDL online. It's 'trade' but I found it very easy to register myself as sole trader. Their handles range is quite unique.
I do mostly refurb projects and I've never had a problem with Valspar, well at least not their matt emulsion. I love their colour range, there are some really wonderful shades available. Where I've used their dark colours or applied the paint in high traffic areas I've gone over this with Polyvine's Decorators Varnish in flat matt. This goes on really well, dries up quickly so you can get 2 or 3 coats on in a single day quite comfortably. This protects the paint from fingerprints and makes the colour richer and more hardwearing. I'd love to use Dulux or Johnstones but I've never found their colour palettes very appealing. In an ideal world, I'd use Johnstones paint in the Valspar colour range!
Thanks for this. The Valspar has chipped dreadfully since I made this video but maybe the varnish would have made it more durable. I'll keep a note of that. I guess varnishing this might be a problem if you then wanted to repaint the units for any reason? I applied some lacquer to our kitchen table after painting it and had to scrape the lot off when I needed to repaint it. You know you can get Johnstone's mixed to any colour?
Hi Charlie Hamilton Prestige mini rollers from Toolstation - 4 inch short sleeves, 10 for £4.09 . I used to use the mohair ones from screwfix like you but these are far better & shed no bits like the mohair ones! My top tip :-)
Thanks Chris. That's going on my list! I've got some quite cool stuff from the States I'm going to try out in my final wardrobe build video in a couple of weeks so you might keep an eye out for that.
Again,excellent upload! I'm a convert to the Zinzer, but have had nothing but terrible experience with the Valspar. Even when primed for Scotland, it just seems to fall off, and ,as you pointed out, literally comes off with even my very bitten finger nails. Given the amount of time and effort put into both the prep' and painting, I'd say the 'purple wine voucher' saved on paint is definitely a false economy. But that's just me! Again, thanks for sharing.
Thanks mate. I've got to say I agree. It's chipped terribly success I did this vid. You can at least spot repair without it flashing but that's scant consolation really.
Great video Charlie. I painted my melamine cupboard doors recently using bedec MSP. No need for separate primer or undercoat. Like you I used faux mohair rollers and the finish is great. Several months later and there’s no chips or scratches and they are wipe clean. Super pleased with them. Replaced my tile splash back with more modern tiles and now it looks like a new kitchen! I’d encourage anyone just to have a go at small projects like this and see how much money you could save. Your vids really help with this. It love to see what your thoughts are on the bedec MSP and maybe a video?! Keep up the great work.
Hi there. That's interesting - I'll definitely check that out. I guess the only issue is that you're limited to one of their colours - albeit there seem to be a reasonable selection of 38 to choose from.
Having just used the Zinser exterior Satin solvent based painter do our conservatory I would thoroughly recommend you to try the rest of their paints and not just the primer.. the quality was fantastic,
Good channel I have used Valspa with zinsser bin and they don’t like each other they peal and scratch very easily but with water based primer it worked much better but in general I wouldnt touch it.
That was a really interesting video. I’m about my make my own slab doors from MR mdf - this actually came on automatically just after I’d watched your mdf edging video. I’ve ordered the edging strips and hope it makes my life easier... think I’m going to go for oil based paint though for the doors because I’m worried about water getting all over them and ruining them!
Thanks Charlie great video , yes it can be a bit of a nightmare working in a live (active) kitchen, just put floor leveler down ,a little rub down needed here and there ,dust can be a bit of a issue.Next job is painting our cabinets then lay the floor. Nothing is straight forward in our house its like the house that jack built...lol Thanks for your videos and please keep them coming.
I repainted our units a few years back - used Ronseal (I think) kitchen cupboard paint. Lovely and highly durable finish, but it was oil based and stinks when drying plus takes ages to dry, so next time would use water-based eggshell. In a previous job I used to make furniture which was painted with F&B - their paint was ridiculously expensive - quality OK, but the customers loved the brand and the colours. I have also used Valspar ‘off the shelf’ eggshell and satin brilliant white and have been impressed by the quality. Painted a ceiling with Valspar emulsion and got awful results - very patchy and not impressed. Seems some Valspar paint is good and others meh! Great job on your kitchen by the way!
Makes sense Martin, thanks for the comment. Yes I've found Farrow and Ball expensive for what it is and preferred the coverage of Johnstone's, but as you say, people fall in love with the brand - a bit like Dyson vacuums! I bought some Valspar contract matt emulsion to use as a mist coat on the new bedroom and was amazed to read that you can't water it down so its gone straight back and I've bought a tin of Armstead instead.
We've used valspar paint for lots of jobs in our home and have never had an issue with it , is it the best paint? No however for our budget it's been fine and 5 years on it still looks good .
Bedec paints are VERY good. Available from good suppliers and on line. The best water based paint out there imo. Well worth checking them out. I am a painter (20+years). I use it most of the time. Like your vids. ATB
I have always relied on Benjamin Moore paints (franchise) -- hi-gloss, semi-gloss, and eggshell and ceiling. They have held up in a NY apartment for over 20 years and do not show any darkening. However, since Benjamin Moore has doubled in price I tried Behr paints (Home Depot) at $30 gallon (approximately). I find they are almost as good as Benjamin Moore but need maybe a half-gallon more per job. They don't cover exactly in one coat but I am happy with the final results and they don't cost $60 a gallon. Behr paints also don't darken and hold up quite well. I have also used Kilz 2 latex primer and PPG Gripper latex primer and are happy with each brand. Both cover very well with Gripper being slightly thicker.
Thanks for that - very informative and useful for anyone tuning in. I've got to say, the paint I used in this video is not wearing well. Chips everywhere that need patching up.
Great video, really helpful! I was planning on using the Zinsser All Coat, have you used it at all? It's self primming so wondered if I can get away without primming the doors? I really like the look of a matt finish, but wonder as it's a kitchen would eggshell be a better way to go for durability? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Very informative video. The reason a lot of people aren't getting such good results with their B & Q paint is because they are not being as meticulous as you have been preparing the surface first.
Thanks Anthony although I omitted to tell people about degreasing with sugar soap. There's always something. I've got to say though that Valspar has chipped horribly since although it's a tough environment for any water based paint.
My take on your paint issue. My understanding is that Primer is only used on non-painted porous surfaces. What you should use is Undercoat which prepares for the top coat.
I agree, and it doesn't make sense to put a premium primer/undercoat on then top it with Valspar. Valspar I have found is only good where wear is minimal. Good video nonetheless.
I'm inclined to agree with you John. The Zinsser BIN has excellent adhesion - you can even paint it onto glass. However it's the long term durability that would worry me. This Valspar has been pretty hopeless if I'm honest from a chipping point of view although you can at least spot repair without it flashing (ie without having to repaint the whole door). My advice, maybe experiment on the back of a door if you're going to replace them anyway. Degrease with sugar soap (I forgot to mention that). Make a key by sanding the surface with a 180 grit sand paper. And paint on a coat of BIN. And see how it adheres.
Nothing wrong with buying paint from B&Q, they are often cheaper for a lot of Dulux/ Zinsser paints than buying from Dulux themselves. For some reason the Valspar paints always gets bad reviews here in the UK, yet over in the USA people love them. I will be making my own kitchen soon and for the top coat i will be trying out Benjamin Moore Advance paint as that gets excellent reviews. :)
Thanks for that. Very interesting. I think you're much better off with the Benjamin Moore. This Valspar has chipped horribly since I did the video. The only good thing about it is you can spot repair without the paint flashing, which is quite rare for eggshells where typically you have to repaint the whole unit.
Hi Charlie. What’s the Valspar colour please? I have used Valspar extensively in my home and I like it. It goes on so easily and I can always eek it out. Its affordable and, if you’re fussy like me, you can get the colour you want. Downside: yes it does mark and chip easily in a busy household but I don’t mind the odd touch up!
I think it was Farrow and Ball Railings. The Valspar has chipped quite badly but is at least easy to touch up. Also if it's for the kitchen, give the units a good degrease with sugar soap first. Ideally go oil based as it will be more hard wearing. If you're using water based, there are a few products like Tikkurilla Kiva 10 or Blockade Rock Top you can paint on at the end to give it enhanced protection.
Lovely job! Good to hear your feedback on the Valspar product too. I've some old storage cupboards in my office which need a make-over and they won't get much wear and tear so I'm tempted with this over the F&B as only me and the dogs go in there :) You mention online paint reviews - I often wonder if the people who are disappointed and give one star expect too much? Going up or down the shade chart more than a few steps away from the current colour will always take a few coats but I suspect a lot of people expect it done in one.
Thanks Sharon. Don't touch Valspar if you can help it. Get yourself to a Dulux or Johnstone's Decorator centre and get an eggshell or similar. They'll mix to F&B colours.
I use BIN 123 and all I do with trays as with all paints I just leave the left over wet tray to dry.Keep using it with all paints and never clean it down the plug hole as this is really bad. After about 20 Used you simply cut the built up paint at one end of the tray and it peels off back to the new tray. Using BIN I’ve wrapped brushes in cling film overloaded with the BIN.These brushes are good to go for at least a month. Watch some of my videos where I’ve used BIN on varnished doors.👍🏻 I’m about to do my units which are varnished 🤯 I’m gonna use BIN 123 two coats then 2 coats of Dulux Trade high gloss.Just for easy cleaning and wear and tear.Il get it colour mixed.
When you have all the doors off. And are painting them. How would you stack them? Like.. if you just stack them once dryed im guessing they will "stick" in parts as you pick them up... Takes about 20days for it to fully dry/cure. Bubble wrap? Cardbroad?
A great job Charlie, I've thought about doing this in our kitchen but my wife is a bit hesitant. I definitely won't be using Valspar though. I've used their kitchen paint for a small area within our kitchen and it is really rubbery, and can just peel off. I've never painted with anything like it, it's just weird.
✔Good video Charlie Just wonder the final Finish... in close up was grainy (wave) or smooth (even)? ... Unfortunately through the camara doesn't show close up Finish.
Your template for the handles is magic, thank you :). I do remember Valspar (emulsion I think?) smelled of tom cats a few years ago, which would possibly explain at least some of the poor reviews. Otherwise, with paint as with other things, maybe you get what you pay for? Excellent and useful video, thanks very much
Thanks Charlie. I've just completed my kitchen cabinets paint refurb. All inspired by your video. I used Zinsser BIN for the basecoat (coated MDF) but could've used a Dulux oil based Undercoat. The top coat was a water based Dulux grey colour. I must say that the shellac Zinsser has a satisfying vanilla scent to it. Anyways now that I'm ready to screw all the cabinets back in I'm contemplating on whether to add a top coat of clear Varnish or Lacquer to it? Two coats of lacquer should protect the finish colour against everyday knocks and chips - do you agree?
Thanks buddy. Glad you found the vids useful. I would think carefully before lacquering, just because I lacquered my kitchen table ruclips.net/video/Odh0fR13Q9E/видео.html to try and prevent stains from things like red wine. It didn't really help with the staining and when I had to repaint the table - mostly because of glue residue from the kids projects, and the odd chip etc it was a nightmare as I had to scrape off all the lacquer before repainting. The valspar featured in this video is pretty rubbish if I'm honest as it's chipped loads, but at least it doesn't flash so I've been able to touch up all the chips to pretty good effect. Sorry that's not really very helpful. Maybe do a bit more research before making the plunge, but personally, because of my experience, I won't be using lacquer again.
Interesting video. Hard work getting that done at home! I prefer to snap off those knob screws. Bend them a little bit one way, a little the other way and they break off at the divide. Bit of a knack to where you grip the pliers though, sometimes you crush the threads in over bending.
Yes and I need to do this. I've been recommended Minwax polycrylic or Polyvine decorators varnish. I'll be protecting my bedroom wardrobes at some stage, so I'll do a vid on this.
Johnstone's, which you can buy from one of their Decorators Centres in the UK. Unfortunately this Valspar chipped a lot since painting but at least you can touch it up without having to repaint the whole unit.
Yes I painted both. I guess by using the mohair roller sleeve which is great at applying the paint evenly, and not being tempted to lay it on too quick. I have found this paint has chipped quite a lot but there are protective coatings you can apply on top - like polyvine decorators varnish or Minwax polycrylic coating. Make sure you sugar soap all surfaces before you start, to degrease them
Hi Charlie . We have IKEA shaker type cupboards . They are covered in vinyl . Do you advice removing the vinyl and painting or wrapping the cupboards with new vinyl ?
I think either of those options is going to be problematic. Maybe get a small tin of Zinsser BIN and experiment on a small area to see how well it adheres. You can paint glass with it so it might be ok. Then you can paint over with a nice hard wearing top coat (don't buy this Valspar though, it chips too easily!)
Hi Charlie, really interesting video. I've used many paints over the years and i've narrowed it down to Dulux in the end. Anything else i feel is a compromise and its about ease of use, how does it feel on the brush/roller? does it cover well? Is it tough enough for the job? I tried eggshell once to get a good finish, six coats with sanding in between but very delicate as a finish. Never used Zinsser but i reckon i'll give it a go sometime. Satinwood for wood/metal, wouldn't touch gloss again. Brush on and roller to finish. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and keep up the good work. 👍🖖
i am awful at DIY but i am learning a lot with your channel! subscribed!! just wondering why you choose the shellac BIN zinsser over the bullseye 123 waterbased version? Thanks
That's great to hear! You're not awful, you're just starting your learning journey 👍 To be honest, BIN is a far superior product because being shellac based rather than water based (which the 123 is) it blocks stains and odours and things like wood knots, and dries incredibly quickly and also adheres to a ridiculous number of surfaces. I'll be honest, I've never used 123, but I'm struggling to see the need to buy any other primer now I've found BIN. If you're painting your kitchen don't forget to degrease with sugar soap or Zinsser's Universal Degreaser before painting, as I forgot to mention that in this this video.
Thanks! It was Farrow and Ball Railings, and the walls are painted in Farrow and Ball Schoolroom White - one of the few colours we could get to match it.
Hi Charlie Apologies if you have answered similar question previously. I'd like to buy a paint for my kitchen cupboards (inspired by you) and am completely lost in the maze of brands and possible finishes. Someone recommended Johnstone' Trade or Leyland Trade and you agree these are good choices. Now, I'm not in the trade (if you haven't noticed 😂) and got no idea what to go for. PLEASE help; 17yrs old vinyl cupboards, I am not work shy and can follow instructions. For now all I know is I'd like to buy a light shade of grey for it and not too shiny finish - is that woodsatin, eggshel or there's so many I've no idea....can I buy it online, have you got a link to a specific one....??? Thanks Danni
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Charlie, thank you so much for this video. I painted my kitchen farrow and ball down pipe using precisely your instructions. I used the same handles from the same company who were excellent and the final look was absolutely fantastic. I wouldn’t have tried it without this tutorial. I was quoted £2,300 to have it sprayed yet by doing it myself it cost me £100 in paint and primer and £200 for handles. A 2k saving. Thanks again.
So pleased to hear that Brian. Fantastic work! 👏🏻
May I ask how many full days it took (or hours, roughly)? I'm handing this job to a handyman so labour will be a significant cost.
Tip: if you're removing all the doors at once and many are all the same size, discretely number them and the carcass so you know which door goes back where!
Good thinking 👍
I used a permanent marker pen on the unpainted reverse side of the cupboard door to label each by kitchen's space location 👍
Hi Charlie, Fantastic video. Recently repainted our kitchen cabinets with Valspar Wood and Metal paint. Spray painted the cabinets with 2 x coates after initial sanding and priming. As you showed, the paint was initially easy to take off but after 2 months now and the paint is now mature, it is quite durable and difficult to take off. I recommend this brand and having used Valspar in the past, I have had no issues.
Keep up the good work.
Many youtubers get proud and lose their original personality. You have maintained your humble approach and that impresses me.
The quality of videos and details you cover are really good. I trust tour top tips in your videos. It just shows you know what you are doing and advising.
👍😊
Virupaksha, thanks so much for that! At the end of the day the integrity of my channel is so important to me so it's great to hear that it comes across as I intended! It does give me a bit of a headache at times because I'd love to do this full time, but that's my problem to ponder not yours!! Thanks again - I really appreciate your support of the channel!
Thanks for the video. I watched it a few times and gave my kitchen cupboards an overhaul, including new cup handles (your spacing advice was brilliant). It took about three days as I opted for chalk paint and several coats of furniture wax, but your advice and tips made it seamless.
Lovely job and I really like the colour you guys chose. We used the Rustoleum chalk paint in Anthricite with a matt clear varnish sealant afterwards (also Rustoleum) I really loved the finish we got and it looks like a new kitchen, we talked about having a new kitchen fitted but we have an old MFI kitchen which has solid wood doors and we didn't want to change the layout so we decided to paint. We also changed the sink and tap and covered the work tops with DCFix vinyl which has also worked really well.
I've painted few kitchens with valspar eggshell including my own and only time had problem was over BIN primer. I made our doors with Mrmdf, primed with water base polyurethane, sanded, edges treated with filler, primed again and two top coats valspar eggshell. We've got a golden and flat coat retriever that love rolling and scratching paint work. Touch wood no paints chipped or scratches four years on.
The new colour looks great with the existing counter and flooring...nice job!
Thanks!
Hi, I have laminate kitchen doors and would love a different colour, have read that you can buy specialist primer but can be problematic with the paint taking, do u think it would be worth doing this or just remaking the doors out of mdf?... Thanks 😊
Charlie, I'm a time served decorator and have been in the trade for over 40 years.I assume the paint you used was water based? It's been my experience that water based paints may be easier to apply and dry quicker than oil based paints but they are not as durable as oil based paints.I quite often buy paint from B and Q but always buy the trade version which may be dearer but is much better. ! Great videos 😁
2:46 Absolutely LOVE the sink & faucet👍🏻 Have been a fan if the style since was a kid & Chef (makes washing up so much easier😅).... But it’s just a great look w/ durable lasting materials.
Ppl don’t realize that hardware can add up very quickly, especially if you have a lot of drawers & cabinets....... But, it’s one of the easiest ways to “refresh” a kitchen w/ a new look.
Another thing I’ve done for clients is vinyl wrapping there cabinets & counter tops with different vinyl brands (Vvivid, 3M, Avery, etc...). Works really well to change a room, desk, cabinet, etc....but I’d only recommend if you have experience; as this can be frustrating to new ppl trying this method.
Rust-oleum Universal Advance Formula All Surface Paint. Just been painting at my daughter's house. I did the outside windows and frames - they were in a sorry state, really horrible. I used Peel Stop on the sills to see if it would do what it said it would and it did! Love the paint. My new favourite. First coat is a bit thin so care needed and the second if needed needs to be generously applied or it seems to drag. Looks great. Today I finished using it on the tiles in the bathroom. Again, excellent. Then I had had enough......back tomorrow. Not ideal weather but I am never in the UK in the summer. Home next week for a rest😂
I was really impressed after painting my newly built bathroom vanity with Rust-oleum’s ‘Bathroom Wood & Cabinet Paint, Satin Finish’. It went onto the pine & ply beautifully (no primer needed) & while installing the rest of the bathroom around it I knocked it about 5 times and it didn’t mark at all when it really should have. Couple of months in & it’s looking fab. Now I might use their kitchen cupboard paint - esp seeing how easily your paint came away from the primer 😬
Good work. Yes the Valspar was a terrible product in hindsight.
What a brilliant chat, BIG thank you, well presented one of the best and easy videos on this subject, a breath of fresh air.
Thanks John. Just make sure you degrease with sugar soap prior to painting and I wouldn't buy Valspar again as it chips too easily.
We have just updated our tired kitchen units and I used the same principle as yourself Charlie. After spending a small fortune on 52 Door handles and 30 drawer handles we thought do we go for a cheaper paint.............We did and like yourself had an F&B mix with the Valspar once dried the missus hated the colour as it looked washed out even after 3 coats, so I went back to B&Q and bit the bullet and actually went with the F&B colour re-done the units from scratch and we are much happier with the outcome. SO MY ANSWER, sometimes you have to go down the expensive route.
Keep the videos coming they are great TONY
Blimey Tony, how long did it take to redo all that? Still, worth it in the end!
We used Valspar on the walls and ceiling in the kitchen 2 years ago and I have to say it’s been fine.
I have recently removed the door and frame and fitted new ones. This obviously meant some touching up and 2 coats later you cannot see the difference.
The walls have been washed down a number of times to clean off splashes etc and none of the paint has come off.
It is more expensive than some of the other paints but has done the job.
That said, I am now doing the Hall Stairs and Landing and will probably be using Johnsons or Dulux.
Hope that helps.
Difficulty go with Johnstone's. The Valspar has chipped horribly in the kitchen but thankfully you can spot repair without it flashing, which is unusual for eggshell.
Great tip taking a belt sander to the cut end of shortened screws! Thank you!
You're welcome, Mark. Yes, I use this technique a lot, even for quite large M5/M6 bolts that I've chopped down 👍
I did my units in Valspar (Gotham Night Grey). Went on well and looked great...for a WEEK! More chips than Brighton sea front!
Me too I'm afraid. You can at least spot paint without flashing.
@@CharlieDIYte I actually topped mine with a hard clear varnish at the recom of the guy who mixed the paint. Same as you though Charlie, units aren't there to stay, so, lesson learnt!
Thanks for this video. I just finished following along to do the same to my kitchen (I even used Railings colour!) and I'm really happy with the result.
Nice one Gary. If you find it chips, I've been recommended Polyvine decorators varnish and Minwax polycrylic protective finish as ways to make it more durable. It's probably the last thing on your mind though after finishing the job!!
Thanks Charlie. I'm finding myself touching it up a bit, but like you said in the video it's a good colour for not showing up too much flashing when I do. I'll definitely get a tin of the Minwax, thanks for the tip.
I have used an exterior valspar paint which, at £29 per litre was quite expensive, but the colour match was very good and the coverage was excellent. So far no chipping or flaking. I am very impressed with it and would use it again without question.
Thanks Stephen - that's good to know!
Great advise, completed a simular project on our wardrobe doors in bedroom. 👍👍
I used Dulux Wheather shield gloss paint on my kitchen cabinet doors. I am the same as you it has been three weeks ago and we have not had any chipping at all, we are very pleased with it.
Very useful, thanks. Of course, paint becomes more durable with increased drying time.
I've got to say though, this paint has not worn well. Chips loads but you can at least do spot repairs without it flashing.
I've used Valspar eggshell on a surface over the washing machine and tumble dryer - actually a re-purposed already varnished interior door. I prepared very carefully, applying 2 coats but still got some chipping. I'd never used this paint before but knew the brand name, so thought I'd give it a try. Think I'll stick to Johntones in future...
Wise choice. You and me both!
I used the exact same type of paint to cover MDF kickboards in my kitchen (primed with 2-3 coats of BIN. The finish was great after 2 coats applied with a foam roller and so far no chips.
That's good to hear - thanks for the comment 👍
@@CharlieDIYte Plus, the Armstead trade Satin I've used throughout the rest of my house (4x2.5ltr) does chip quite easily. Maybe people just expect too much from water-based paints in general and they should be using oil-based ones if they value durability above ease of use?
Really interesting and very clearly expressed thank you. Just repainted out kitchen in Farrow and Ball and 5 weeks later holding well no chips or marks very happy with the quality. We used the BIN too just like you.
Thanks Linda. Yes, I wouldn't use the Valspar again as it has chipped a lot since I did this video. I think you made the right choice there👍
B&Q is cheap and cheerful. Sometimes you get great products backed up by great customer service. Other times... not. The trick is, as you say, judging when you can use their products successfully, and when you have to spend a bit more. Your videos, like this one, can be a great help, but the more DIY you do, the more able you are to judge for yourself. But if you get it right, the savings, and the pleasure, are great. Well done for using Valspar and braving the comments Charlie.
Thanks mate, I appreciate the comment 👍
its been my experience that for hardware and some materials service ,B&Q are good, closely followed by homebase, but for pine lumber (go lumber yard if poss) and paint,reverse order. as for wicks ,they seem to have a policy of supporting tools for a year then your scewed ( no pun intended), as for all else they support until theyre bored, and my exp of staff/HO customer support is "why are you bothering me, go away" attitude, i would do without if not available elsewhere. AMAZON preferable to WICKS.
@@vogonpoet5860 It's such a shame isn't it. I always respected Wickes as a brand that was superior to Homebase (obviously) and B&Q being more trade orientated, but there's something obviously endemically wrong with the culture of the business as recently I've had similar experiences with the staff 🤔
@@CharlieDIYte my father used to swear by wicks but after he bought a wicks scroll saw and 6mnths later refused to support it he boycotted them. they just got worse.
Honest man.i like the way you explain.easy pizzy
Thanks mate 👊🏻
Iv just recently made some doors for my garden room and used matt emulsion mixed 50 50 with quickdry diamond hard floor varnish then varnish over top as well that has co e out well,I also build a lot of furniture and I mix my water based satin with the floor varnish as well this mix travels well and is durable,Great videos by the way welldone I like your approach
That's really interesting Dean, and something I might have to try out. What made you use emulsion on the doors, out of interest, rather than the satin as you do on the furniture?
Because emulsion colours are infinite compared to cupboard door paint,I had the grey emulsion and thought it would look good on the cupboard doors but knowing how well emulsion wipes down I thought I'd try mixing it with the floor varnish to make a more stable paint,Now I tend to tip it in everything,I also saw your mdf series I'm a recent subscriber and I use the filler method great series by the way,I use silverhook fine finish 2 part filler it's excellent for laying on endgrain of mdf and £6.40 a tin cheap too it's car filler
@@deanreynolds2027 The problem I have is with stopping a hand painted kitchen table from staining (red wine and the like). I put a lacquer on it but it didn't really work and was a nightmare when I came to repaint it.
@@deanreynolds2027 Thanks for subscribing by the way - massively appreciated 👍
It's a great channel even for a pro,I would use floor varnish on the table I would buy shares in it if I could😆
Glad to see the valspar coming out.... I’m like yourself, always buy dulux paints or sometimes armstead. But did a job where I had to keep the cost to a minimum and got a colour mixed from the dulux chart in valspar v700 scrubbable matt... the stuff is very good quality and goes on superbly well... price is very cost effective and the customer was very happy indeed! Lovely colour on that kitchen mate👍 Marc
Thanks Marc. Funnily enough I bought a big tub of Valspar contract matt emulsion recently to mist coat our newly replastered bedroom (video to follow) and was surprised to hear from a subscriber that you can't water it down - and sure enough it says that on the tub so I took it back and bought 10litres of Armstead instead. I was tempted to use the Valspar scrubbable emulsion for the kitchen walls until I read the reviews but you're making me think it might be worth the risk 🤔
Ah right yeah always essential to water down contract Matt for a must cost and armstead contract matt is great for this... I tend to ignore reviews on paint for one reason.... they are mainly from people who aren’t painters.... now I’m not a professional decorator by trade but do an awful lot of it when I can fit it in. It’s all about how you apply paint. And let’s face it there are so many factors that can cause a bad paint job. From lack of preparation down to the wrong type of paint being used in a room. I’ll try any brand of paint once.... then make my decision. And valspar pleased me greatly! Dulux diamond Matt in my kitchen though. £73 for 5 litres.... expensive but worth every penny! Now I have recently set up a cash account there I get it a bit cheaper 👍
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A really quality video. Your kitchen looks great and I am copying this so thank-you.
Thanks Danny. I probably wouldn't use the Valspar if I had my time again (though don't worry if you've already bought it). It has a propensity to chip although you can at least touch up the chips without the paint flashing.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks Charlie. I bought some paint on ebay in the end and will give it a try. Appreciate your feedback.
How have I not thought of using tin foil on the paint tray to save time washing paint off afterwards, something so simple but Genus 👍🏻
It does help particularly when you're using oil based paint.
I have used plastic bags or cling film before but not foil. Might give that a try. I hate cleaning trays!!!!
Really enjoying your channel Charlie. I am far from a DIY god, but I have to say I find your reviews easy to follow, and I actually attempt more jobs myself instead of paying other people. Keep up the good work Sir!!.
Graeme, that's music to my ears, my friend. Thanks so much for your support, and also for taking the time to get in touch. Drop me a line if you ever need any tips on anything 👍
@@CharlieDIYte thats so kind of you for saying thank you.
If I may pick your brains quickly please? My next project is trying to take on a bulkhead in my partners house on the third floor, obviously I cannot completely remove as its the ceiling to the stairs leading up to the room but I'm going to attempt to incorporate the slope in to a dog-leg built in wardrobe, as we firstly need more storage space and secondly it takes up so much space in the room.
Kinda stuck on exactly where to begin if you get my meaning?
Got a thumbs up from me for your honesty.
Iv done a couple of kitchens cabinets jobs and used after a light sanding and wash down with sugar soap used leyland
Oil based primer and two coats of oil based eggshell. ( duck egg blue ) looked great.
Thanks mate. Yes, what you described is the proper way to do it. I much prefer oil based but the water based is just so easy and as I don't love painting it kind of makes sense.
I have used several different types of paint on my cabinets/cupboards, the best one so far is The One paint and primer , bought on Amazon. Then I go over it with Rustoleum clear finishing wax. Cheers .
Good work. Yes the valspar I used here was pretty terrible. It scratched so easily!
about eight years ago i built mdf fitted wardrobes and used jonstones acrylic eggshell sprayed with a earlex 5000 spray gun and also used a roller on some parts, still looks good to this day even after the wife has hit it with a hoover and god knows what else...............i highly recommend this product. also I do use a lot of bullseye 123 blue can water based can recommend this item its fantastic sticks like you know what to a blanket
Thanks Anthony. Agreed - Johnstones is awesome stuff - my preferred paint supplier. Given my addiction to Zinsser BIN I haven't tried 123 but I need to, as you and many others are raving about it. Also, this Valspar is rubbish and has chipped loads since I did this video. The only good thing about it is you can touch up without any flashing - which is just as well considering how many chips we have!!
@@CharlieDIYte thank you for your reply charlie also look up peter millard review on airless cheap spray gun very good they are cheap about 30 pounds no excuse now for anyone to not spray and you get a spare paint pot. no excuses charlie terratek i think its called what you waiting for !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the finish looks great.
Thanks - and good to hear from you again!
You can easily clean Zinsser shellac-based primer from brushes and rollers using Screwfix no-nonsense degreaser (p/n 88668) - soak then rinse with water. It's about £9 for 5 litres - *much* cheaper than methylated spirits and does a better job.
thanks for this tip- the worst part of using BIN is cleaning the brushes!
I use the water based zinsser because I'm tight but it works well
Yes, great tip Laurie - thanks for that!
I love valspar emulsion it's a joy to paint with and excellent coverage never used the wood and metal though
This eggshell has proved to be a bit average in that it chips quite easily but the plus side is that you can easily touch it up without any flashing/ so you can spot paint without having to do the whole door.
Thank you for this video! Really informative, I will be purchasing a premium paint for our kitchen cupboards based on your update! I really don't want to be doing touch ups every month 😯
Wise choice, Tara. There are a fair few suggestions in this Comment feed if you have time to trawl through them 👍🏻
Never used the wood and metal paint from valspar. I use the emulsion premium version quite often and never had a problem, even when the kids thinks its a good idea to put their greasy hands all over my walls. It just wipes off with water and a sponge. But that being said i haven't tried to colour match it after. Good tips as usual. Keep the good content coming 👍
Thanks Chas. That's good to know 👍
Well done, I used a Zinsser Bin primer followed by a couple of coats of Tikkurila satin finish, looks good but time will tell!
It'll be much better than that Valspar I used on this kitchen. Not durable at all!
If you are looking for handles (and anything kitchen hardware related, hinges, lifts etc etc) I have been using a company called LDL online. It's 'trade' but I found it very easy to register myself as sole trader. Their handles range is quite unique.
Have done my kitchen in the summer following your advise about painting mdf wardrobe doors, came up beautiful
I do mostly refurb projects and I've never had a problem with Valspar, well at least not their matt emulsion. I love their colour range, there are some really wonderful shades available. Where I've used their dark colours or applied the paint in high traffic areas I've gone over this with Polyvine's Decorators Varnish in flat matt. This goes on really well, dries up quickly so you can get 2 or 3 coats on in a single day quite comfortably. This protects the paint from fingerprints and makes the colour richer and more hardwearing. I'd love to use Dulux or Johnstones but I've never found their colour palettes very appealing. In an ideal world, I'd use Johnstones paint in the Valspar colour range!
Thanks for this. The Valspar has chipped dreadfully since I made this video but maybe the varnish would have made it more durable. I'll keep a note of that. I guess varnishing this might be a problem if you then wanted to repaint the units for any reason? I applied some lacquer to our kitchen table after painting it and had to scrape the lot off when I needed to repaint it. You know you can get Johnstone's mixed to any colour?
Hi Charlie
Hamilton Prestige mini rollers from Toolstation - 4 inch short sleeves, 10 for £4.09 .
I used to use the mohair ones from screwfix like you but these are far better & shed no bits like the mohair ones!
My top tip :-)
Thanks Chris. That's going on my list! I've got some quite cool stuff from the States I'm going to try out in my final wardrobe build video in a couple of weeks so you might keep an eye out for that.
Looks like they're not re-stocking these at Toolstation anymore. Do you recommend another stockist or roller?
Again,excellent upload!
I'm a convert to the Zinzer, but have had nothing but terrible experience with the Valspar. Even when primed for Scotland, it just seems to fall off, and ,as you pointed out, literally comes off with even my very bitten finger nails.
Given the amount of time and effort put into both the prep' and painting, I'd say the 'purple wine voucher' saved on paint is definitely a false economy. But that's just me!
Again, thanks for sharing.
Thanks mate. I've got to say I agree. It's chipped terribly success I did this vid. You can at least spot repair without it flashing but that's scant consolation really.
Absolutely excellent video Charlie - thanks for posting.
Thanks Julian 👍
Great video Charlie. I painted my melamine cupboard doors recently using bedec MSP. No need for separate primer or undercoat. Like you I used faux mohair rollers and the finish is great. Several months later and there’s no chips or scratches and they are wipe clean. Super pleased with them. Replaced my tile splash back with more modern tiles and now it looks like a new kitchen! I’d encourage anyone just to have a go at small projects like this and see how much money you could save. Your vids really help with this.
It love to see what your thoughts are on the bedec MSP and maybe a video?!
Keep up the great work.
Hi there. That's interesting - I'll definitely check that out. I guess the only issue is that you're limited to one of their colours - albeit there seem to be a reasonable selection of 38 to choose from.
Having just used the Zinser exterior Satin solvent based painter do our conservatory I would thoroughly recommend you to try the rest of their paints and not just the primer.. the quality was fantastic,
Good channel I have used Valspa with zinsser bin and they don’t like each other they peal and scratch very easily but with water based primer it worked much better but in general I wouldnt touch it.
Foil - genius!
That was a really interesting video. I’m about my make my own slab doors from MR mdf - this actually came on automatically just after I’d watched your mdf edging video. I’ve ordered the edging strips and hope it makes my life easier... think I’m going to go for oil based paint though for the doors because I’m worried about water getting all over them and ruining them!
Thanks Charlie great video , yes it can be a bit of a nightmare working in a live (active) kitchen, just put floor leveler down ,a little rub down needed here and there ,dust can be a bit of a issue.Next job is painting our cabinets then lay the floor. Nothing is straight forward in our house its like the house that jack built...lol Thanks for your videos and please keep them coming.
Good luck with all that, Tom, and thanks for the comment!
Nice colour finish
Thanks. We're pretty chuffed with it!
I repainted our units a few years back - used Ronseal (I think) kitchen cupboard paint. Lovely and highly durable finish, but it was oil based and stinks when drying plus takes ages to dry, so next time would use water-based eggshell. In a previous job I used to make furniture which was painted with F&B - their paint was ridiculously expensive - quality OK, but the customers loved the brand and the colours. I have also used Valspar ‘off the shelf’ eggshell and satin brilliant white and have been impressed by the quality. Painted a ceiling with Valspar emulsion and got awful results - very patchy and not impressed. Seems some Valspar paint is good and others meh! Great job on your kitchen by the way!
Makes sense Martin, thanks for the comment. Yes I've found Farrow and Ball expensive for what it is and preferred the coverage of Johnstone's, but as you say, people fall in love with the brand - a bit like Dyson vacuums! I bought some Valspar contract matt emulsion to use as a mist coat on the new bedroom and was amazed to read that you can't water it down so its gone straight back and I've bought a tin of Armstead instead.
We've used valspar paint for lots of jobs in our home and have never had an issue with it , is it the best paint? No however for our budget it's been fine and 5 years on it still looks good .
If I'm honest it didn't wear very well - chips off very easily. But glad to hear it's wearing well for you.
Bedec paints are VERY good. Available from good suppliers and on line.
The best water based paint out there imo. Well worth checking them out.
I am a painter (20+years). I use it most of the time.
Like your vids. ATB
Nicely done pal.
Thanks mate 👍
A good revue and demonstration of this paint Charlie
Always a pleasure watching!
What's your day job?
Cheers mate. Soft furnishings, working for interior designers - measuring making and installing.
I have always relied on Benjamin Moore paints (franchise) -- hi-gloss, semi-gloss, and eggshell and ceiling. They have held up in a NY apartment for over 20 years and do not show any darkening. However, since Benjamin Moore has doubled in price I tried Behr paints (Home Depot) at $30 gallon (approximately). I find they are almost as good as Benjamin Moore but need maybe a half-gallon more per job. They don't cover exactly in one coat but I am happy with the final results and they don't cost $60 a gallon. Behr paints also don't darken and hold up quite well. I have also used Kilz 2 latex primer and PPG Gripper latex primer and are happy with each brand. Both cover very well with Gripper being slightly thicker.
Thanks for that - very informative and useful for anyone tuning in. I've got to say, the paint I used in this video is not wearing well. Chips everywhere that need patching up.
Great video Charlie, cheers 👍
Thanks Jason. You're welcome. If you're planning a similar project make sure you degrease with sugar soap before you paint. I forgot to mention that.
Great video, really helpful! I was planning on using the Zinsser All Coat, have you used it at all? It's self primming so wondered if I can get away without primming the doors? I really like the look of a matt finish, but wonder as it's a kitchen would eggshell be a better way to go for durability? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Very informative video. The reason a lot of people aren't getting such good results with their B & Q paint is because they are not being as meticulous as you have been preparing the surface first.
Thanks Anthony although I omitted to tell people about degreasing with sugar soap. There's always something. I've got to say though that Valspar has chipped horribly since although it's a tough environment for any water based paint.
Hi Charlie, loving your channel - thanks for the great content. We also love the colour you painted the units, which F&B colour is it? Thanks.
My take on your paint issue. My understanding is that Primer is only used on non-painted porous surfaces. What you should use is Undercoat which prepares for the top coat.
I agree, and it doesn't make sense to put a premium primer/undercoat on then top it with Valspar. Valspar I have found is only good where wear is minimal. Good video nonetheless.
Thank you for taking the time to share Charlie, another great review :o)
Charlie, what do you think about painting laminate kitchen doors etc. I've read it can be done but I can't think it'll turn out that well.
I'm inclined to agree with you John. The Zinsser BIN has excellent adhesion - you can even paint it onto glass. However it's the long term durability that would worry me. This Valspar has been pretty hopeless if I'm honest from a chipping point of view although you can at least spot repair without it flashing (ie without having to repaint the whole door). My advice, maybe experiment on the back of a door if you're going to replace them anyway. Degrease with sugar soap (I forgot to mention that). Make a key by sanding the surface with a 180 grit sand paper. And paint on a coat of BIN. And see how it adheres.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks for the advice!
Did you make sure you kept the hinges etc for the exact cabinet it came from before you painted it?
It wasn't really necessary as they're all identical and factory produced. Don't use Valspar though. It's not very durable and chipped easily.
Love it. I’m just about to do this so it’s such a helpful video thank you.
Thanks Janette and good luck with yours 🤞
Thank you. 👍🏻
Nothing wrong with buying paint from B&Q, they are often cheaper for a lot of Dulux/ Zinsser paints than buying from Dulux themselves. For some reason the Valspar paints always gets bad reviews here in the UK, yet over in the USA people love them.
I will be making my own kitchen soon and for the top coat i will be trying out Benjamin Moore Advance paint as that gets excellent reviews. :)
Thanks for that. Very interesting. I think you're much better off with the Benjamin Moore. This Valspar has chipped horribly since I did the video. The only good thing about it is you can spot repair without the paint flashing, which is quite rare for eggshells where typically you have to repaint the whole unit.
Whats the difference between a primer, sealer and undercoat?
Hi Charlie. What’s the Valspar colour please? I have used Valspar extensively in my home and I like it. It goes on so easily and I can always eek it out. Its affordable and, if you’re fussy like me, you can get the colour you want. Downside: yes it does mark and chip easily in a busy household but I don’t mind the odd touch up!
I think it was Farrow and Ball Railings. The Valspar has chipped quite badly but is at least easy to touch up. Also if it's for the kitchen, give the units a good degrease with sugar soap first. Ideally go oil based as it will be more hard wearing. If you're using water based, there are a few products like Tikkurilla Kiva 10 or Blockade Rock Top you can paint on at the end to give it enhanced protection.
Hi Charlie Frenchic chalk paint the Alfresco range would of been a better choice than Valspar and no need for a primer coat either 😁
Lovely job! Good to hear your feedback on the Valspar product too. I've some old storage cupboards in my office which need a make-over and they won't get much wear and tear so I'm tempted with this over the F&B as only me and the dogs go in there :) You mention online paint reviews - I often wonder if the people who are disappointed and give one star expect too much? Going up or down the shade chart more than a few steps away from the current colour will always take a few coats but I suspect a lot of people expect it done in one.
Thanks Sharon. Don't touch Valspar if you can help it. Get yourself to a Dulux or Johnstone's Decorator centre and get an eggshell or similar. They'll mix to F&B colours.
I use BIN 123 and all I do with trays as with all paints I just leave the left over wet tray to dry.Keep using it with all paints and never clean it down the plug hole as this is really bad.
After about 20 Used you simply cut the built up paint at one end of the tray and it peels off back to the new tray.
Using BIN I’ve wrapped brushes in cling film overloaded with the BIN.These brushes are good to go for at least a month.
Watch some of my videos where I’ve used BIN on varnished doors.👍🏻
I’m about to do my units which are varnished 🤯 I’m gonna use BIN 123 two coats then 2 coats of Dulux Trade high gloss.Just for easy cleaning and wear and tear.Il get it colour mixed.
Morning Charlie,
Great video can you please tell me the name of the colour you used.
Kind regards
Alex
Sorry Alex I missed this. It's Farrow and Ball Railings
Valspar trade is the best covering paint I've encountered
Thanks for making this video. Great advice and answered all my questions in one video. Keep them going
Thanks Daniel - appreciate the comment! 👍
When you have all the doors off. And are painting them. How would you stack them? Like.. if you just stack them once dryed im guessing they will "stick" in parts as you pick them up... Takes about 20days for it to fully dry/cure.
Bubble wrap? Cardbroad?
That makes sense but it wasn't practical for us so the best protection was to get them screwed back on as soon as possible.
A great job Charlie, I've thought about doing this in our kitchen but my wife is a bit hesitant.
I definitely won't be using Valspar though. I've used their kitchen paint for a small area within our kitchen and it is really rubbery, and can just peel off. I've never painted with anything like it, it's just weird.
Love it great job. My units are wrapped MDF, semi gloss buttermilk colour. How would I prime these?
✔Good video Charlie Just wonder the final Finish... in close up was grainy (wave) or smooth (even)? ... Unfortunately through the camara doesn't show close up Finish.
Your template for the handles is magic, thank you :). I do remember Valspar (emulsion I think?) smelled of tom cats a few years ago, which would possibly explain at least some of the poor reviews. Otherwise, with paint as with other things, maybe you get what you pay for? Excellent and useful video, thanks very much
In the US Valspar is a quality paint. An if you want the paint to not show through when nicked, do two coats.
Thanks Charlie. I've just completed my kitchen cabinets paint refurb. All inspired by your video. I used Zinsser BIN for the basecoat (coated MDF) but could've used a Dulux oil based Undercoat. The top coat was a water based Dulux grey colour. I must say that the shellac Zinsser has a satisfying vanilla scent to it. Anyways now that I'm ready to screw all the cabinets back in I'm contemplating on whether to add a top coat of clear Varnish or Lacquer to it? Two coats of lacquer should protect the finish colour against everyday knocks and chips - do you agree?
Thanks buddy. Glad you found the vids useful. I would think carefully before lacquering, just because I lacquered my kitchen table ruclips.net/video/Odh0fR13Q9E/видео.html to try and prevent stains from things like red wine. It didn't really help with the staining and when I had to repaint the table - mostly because of glue residue from the kids projects, and the odd chip etc it was a nightmare as I had to scrape off all the lacquer before repainting. The valspar featured in this video is pretty rubbish if I'm honest as it's chipped loads, but at least it doesn't flash so I've been able to touch up all the chips to pretty good effect. Sorry that's not really very helpful. Maybe do a bit more research before making the plunge, but personally, because of my experience, I won't be using lacquer again.
Interesting video. Hard work getting that done at home! I prefer to snap off those knob screws. Bend them a little bit one way, a little the other way and they break off at the divide. Bit of a knack to where you grip the pliers though, sometimes you crush the threads in over bending.
Can't you use a clear varnish on top of the paint to avoid visible scratches?
Yes and I need to do this. I've been recommended Minwax polycrylic or Polyvine decorators varnish. I'll be protecting my bedroom wardrobes at some stage, so I'll do a vid on this.
What brands do you recommend then?
Thanks
Johnstone's, which you can buy from one of their Decorators Centres in the UK. Unfortunately this Valspar chipped a lot since painting but at least you can touch it up without having to repaint the whole unit.
Hi, the colour match you have used is the perfect colour I have been looking for, which F & B colour is this please?
looks like F&B Railings to me
my fave youtube diyer
Aw, thanks for that and for supporting my channel 👍
What color should you paint kickplate under kitchen cabinets that are painted blue
Hi great video may I ask if you painted the inside or the outside of the doors and how you stopped getting edge build up? many thanks
Yes I painted both. I guess by using the mohair roller sleeve which is great at applying the paint evenly, and not being tempted to lay it on too quick. I have found this paint has chipped quite a lot but there are protective coatings you can apply on top - like polyvine decorators varnish or Minwax polycrylic coating. Make sure you sugar soap all surfaces before you start, to degrease them
Hi Charlie . We have IKEA shaker type cupboards . They are covered in vinyl . Do you advice removing the vinyl and painting or wrapping the cupboards with new vinyl ?
I think either of those options is going to be problematic. Maybe get a small tin of Zinsser BIN and experiment on a small area to see how well it adheres. You can paint glass with it so it might be ok. Then you can paint over with a nice hard wearing top coat (don't buy this Valspar though, it chips too easily!)
Hi Charlie, really interesting video. I've used many paints over the years and i've narrowed it down to Dulux in the end. Anything else i feel is a compromise and its about ease of use, how does it feel on the brush/roller? does it cover well? Is it tough enough for the job? I tried eggshell once to get a good finish, six coats with sanding in between but very delicate as a finish. Never used Zinsser but i reckon i'll give it a go sometime. Satinwood for wood/metal, wouldn't touch gloss again. Brush on and roller to finish. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and keep up the good work. 👍🖖
i am awful at DIY but i am learning a lot with your channel! subscribed!! just wondering why you choose the shellac BIN zinsser over the bullseye 123 waterbased version? Thanks
That's great to hear! You're not awful, you're just starting your learning journey 👍 To be honest, BIN is a far superior product because being shellac based rather than water based (which the 123 is) it blocks stains and odours and things like wood knots, and dries incredibly quickly and also adheres to a ridiculous number of surfaces. I'll be honest, I've never used 123, but I'm struggling to see the need to buy any other primer now I've found BIN. If you're painting your kitchen don't forget to degrease with sugar soap or Zinsser's Universal Degreaser before painting, as I forgot to mention that in this this video.
Great DIY tips charlie, whats the colour called if I was to get it in a different brand.
Thanks! It was Farrow and Ball Railings, and the walls are painted in Farrow and Ball Schoolroom White - one of the few colours we could get to match it.
Hi , what colour was this as need to get some thanks
It's Farrow and Ball Railings.
May I ask what's the original timber used for the doors? Plywood or MRMDF?
Pine, even the central panels.
Hi Charlie
Apologies if you have answered similar question previously.
I'd like to buy a paint for my kitchen cupboards (inspired by you) and am completely lost in the maze of brands and possible finishes.
Someone recommended Johnstone' Trade or Leyland Trade and you agree these are good choices. Now,
I'm not in the trade (if you haven't noticed 😂) and got no idea what to go for. PLEASE help;
17yrs old vinyl cupboards, I am not work shy and can follow instructions.
For now all I know is I'd like to buy a light shade of grey for it and not too shiny finish - is that woodsatin, eggshel or there's so many I've no idea....can I buy it online, have you got a link to a specific one....??? Thanks
Danni