2.5mm alone is impressive enough for a "simple" home machinist type of setup and you want to go to the full 15mm? DANG! Subscribing and clicking to find that next video :D
Awesome work! If you ever make another, if you space the inserts at unequal angles between each pocket, it helps reduce resonant chatter when it's cutting.
More welding rod 😤 … 4lbs wasn’t nearly enough I need more welding rod! Me: If 1 rod is good then 2 is better. Since better is twice that of good then 4 would be best being twice as good as better …. But if 4 was best and 8 is better still than there can only be one conclusion: we multiply best by better still and Throw ALL 32 sticks at the thing like a champ! Then and only then will i call it good … 🔂 😙
You're right you did spend a lot of time doing it but you're not done yet. You need to remake the locking nut located on the bottom larger and counterbore a pocket for it so the bottom is completely smooth. Then you need to black oxide your tooling to prevent surface rust. Then you're done.
Apsloutly agree about the black oxide ......however the nut on the bottom is a little trickier to unravel ...due to the cutter being made out of multiple plates and the nature of the cutting forces the nut on the bottom more or less helps to presses the plate together aswell as centralise things (even though welded) long story short space was becoming an issue and it was a balance between room and thickness.......
Great job, but after all of that lovely work you make the R-8 shaft out of rebar which is purposely made soft so it can bend. That kind of shafting needs to be out of 4140 or 1045 so it is ridged under that kind of pressure.
Hello from France (Normandy), very nice video on the manufacture of a surfacing plate. very often used to surface an engine cylinder head or engine moc block. and with so many machining inserts you should have a very nice surface provided you have the right feed rate per revolution. 😊 ps/ on the other hand what a shame that you didn't activate automatic translation on the video.☺
I’m wondering if a harder steel than rebar would have been a better selection for the shaft. That part alone will be suffering a huge amount of deflection, even under light use.
Agreed ...but unfortunately it was the only bit of steel I had that was big-enough...just some old sections of dywidag bar my dad dragged back from work ....which is abit more consistent than rebar ...but it is high tensile steel with carbon content upto 0.80% which chould be hardend.....although that may warp things out of Shape...
On the lathe I allways oil everything I can to try and minimise ware and keep things smooth.....but tbh I use excessive amounts of (iso68) oil on all my machines.......that lathe is about 20 years older than me but still in amazing condition...
I'm not a machinist and admittedly, I know very little regarding this industry-I'm merely fascinated by this type of work. There is one thing I don't understand though; where are all the machinist who do understand what they're seeing? Seems this channel would have 267k subscribers not 2.67k-well done.
That's quite impressive, I've got some boxes of inserts with no cutters for them unfortunately they are a funny shape I can't readily mill a pocket for. Maybe one day when I get CNC capabilities
I always wondered how hard it is to do electric discharge milling at home. There are a few videos on youtube about that. You should be able to sink just about any shape into a perfect fit hole that way... perfect for odd inserts, in theory. As far as i understand that theory.
nicely made , mightve gone about making it in a little different order , basicly first smooth the mating surfaces where the parts lay on top of eachother with a good center hole through and through . bolt through all the parts to clamp them together together to weld them in one go then use the center hole and a temporary way of mounting to chuck the part in and machine the circumference of everything with the hole mostly in the center use the outer surface to chuck it in and clock it out so its centered along the circumference and mostly level against the face and bore out the center hole for the tool holder machine the toolholder mount it in the hole mount the toolholder in the chuck (maibe make a precision receiver for that type of taper to put in the chuck or adapt it to the taper in the lathe i bet that comes in handy in the future ) then machine the 3 surfaces to size so its perfectly square to the toolholder and do the chairdance between the divider on the mill and lathe to cut the pockets and finish the underside guess im going to look around for a source of that superthick rebar as i bet thats a lot cheaper than buying round stock in that diameter , should be ok steel
Tolle Leistung einen Messerkopf / Planfräser selbst herzustellen. Nur rechnet man den Zeitaufwand und das Material müsste das Werkzeug fast vergoldet sein, Ein Fräser dieser Größe kostet ca. 500,00€. Ich rechne dass man einen Tag für die komplette Herstellung benötigt. Bei 8 Stunden und einem Maschinensatz je nachdem was für eine Maschine im Einsatz ist CNC oder konventionell von ca. 150 / Std. konventionell, sind das 1200,00 €. Ob sich das lohnt? Ach ja was ich noch anzufügen hätte, es gibt ein Spruch: "Ich bin der Dreher eilig, was ich nicht dreh das schmiergel und feil ich..." . Trotzdem eine klasse Leistung.
It looks great and I’m wondering, are the drawings for this available to us? How can you tell if all the insets are cutting on the same plane? How did you determine the angle to cut the pockets to in order to achieve the optimal relief cutting angle when the inserts were installed? I just watched this for the second time and realized I didn’t post my other questions, why not just weld the shaft in place? It looks to me that a lot of work could be saved by making the R8 shaft a press fit and then welded from the bottom. It would eliminate the four screws, the two bars they hold and the cap and screw under the shell mill itself plus you could machine the weld flush giving it a better appearance. All this while assuring less possibilities for an unbalanced shell mill.
This looks like rebar but is achwelly dywidag bar (dividag bar)...essentially its a massive bolt that has a verry corse thread down its length..thease are used as tie bars to hold shuttering together as well as various other concrete structures .....
Not as far as I'm aware think you need atleast 0.5% carbon to harden it and rebar is at most 0.3% rebar is kinda abit of a mix of steels ...But on the other hand some scorces say it can be hardend however I think that is referring to specific grades of rebar I haven't myself tried to harden the rebar I have on hand but it can be cace harden unfortunately I don't have the facilities to do so ....
This is a cool build. The only thing you should probably learn to avoid doing is climb milling. That and improper fixturing is why your endmill pulled your workpiece out of the vise. Best case scenario you end up with a mess up cutting tool or workpiece. Worst case scenario you end up with a chunk of steel embedded somewhere in your body
@wordwyrd does it leave a better surface finish? Yes. However, you should almost never climb mill on a manual. If that machine has any backlash, you risk damaging the machine or chucking your part out of the vise
@wordwyrd I also want to add that when I was in school I literally had a chunk of carbide embedded into my arm because the idiot on the machine behind me decided it was ok to climb mill
@@ryanthede4689 it's definitely going to require you adjust your gibs and use correct speed and not overfeed.. generally on a manual machine I will use conventional milling until the last 2 passes, and do a semi-finish pass (no more than .040) and whatever my finish pass is climbing. By then I will have the speed dialed in pretty well even if it's by ear. That said, trade school is definitely not going to be a place to try this kind of finessing. Half the kids there are running mills at half the speed they should (or double etc.), overfeeding by scary amounts, etc. Honestly, I was perfectly happy when my instructor limited everyone to HSS only back in the day. I guess what I am saying is try it out for lighter cuts, just make sure your work is secure and you adjust the gibs (try to lock the axis you aren't cutting in too of course). I've had success with that on everything from a 1/4HP desktop to a big knee mill that was a chinese bridgeport knockoff, and the only time I ever had the slightest issue was when I didn't have the gibs close.
Unfortunately no everything I make is designed in my head 🤯.... but I'm happy to share any dimensions, tips and techniques for you to make your own....
That turned out Ok. Well done. My next tool would be a tap extension for that work on the mill and a tailstock chuck for power tapping on the lathe.😵💫
Boxford mk3 made on (10/11/79) a bridgepoet made by adcock and shipley with a 2hp motor ...and a wm18 mill that I converted to cnc and a 2hp motor with 5k spindle speed ...... all running chinease 380v single to 3phase converters
The inserts on commercial cutters are on small incline for the depth so that when it advances every insert is cutting some. You get that buzzing sound as it cuts, on this you get tap tap tap as the first insert cuts then the second one has no material until the end of the advance as the previous leaves the material. Then the next one again has a full cut and so on. But still nice build, I’m too lazy to make tools and buy them.
Around Christmas 🎄 I'll be making another video going over a few bits ...that taping sound as the cutter hits the material is achwelly the top of the machine I believe its the splines that's drives the spindle as the noise can be reduced by holding the draw bar .........this will be fixed
Nice video and great project! =) I was wondering... is it because you couldnt get your hands on big enough material that you decided to weld that much? Probably would have been faster to turn down some larger stock hehe
Yh👍the thickest steel I had at the time was only 15mm. I opted for this design because I thort it whould be the most rigid and reduce chatter/vibration. also the amount of weld I used was achwelly essential to the design of the pocket for the insert .🛠🗜 I suppose in the long run there was manny ways to make this 🤔
@@allangles4020 The end justifies the means, as they say! =) You got a very good tool out of it, so you def succeeded. I'm a machinist/CNC programmer in my daily job - and youre right: 5 guys given the same job will make it 5 different ways. Merry christmas
you should think about at least starting the taps with the quill. if you don't like power tapping, at least put it in high gear and manually start a fre threads, ir use a spring loaded tap follower?
VERY NICE PIECE! I would like to make one, for my self, is it possible to have a drawing from You? I would be very thankful, if so. This would be a crown juvel, in my "toolbox". Just now, I am making a major repair, to my milling machine. Just bought it and, it was mede to "sales condition", it lacked a locking screw for table feed, vertically. So, short: I tried it back home, and fed it down on automatic feed, till I thought, it would stop. Not so, it went straight to total stop, in the end of the feeding screw, and was stuck. This cost me 1500 euro`s+ some hundreds, for two gears! And a lot of work time. So, I am in the lack of a tool like this. If You are able to helt me, I would be very thankful. From a Finn in Diaspora.
I'm more than happy to help ..I have no drawings or plans I can send you as everything I make is designed in my head.... but I'm happy to pour over all the key details and sizes inordder for you to make your own............
Yh I guess there was manny ways to make this🤔 .I thort this way whould produce the most sturdy cutter and whould reduce chatter and vibration the most..... but more importantly all the excess weld was achwelly essential to the pocket design for the insert 🗜
bro 😂 why did you lay that much weld on there?? that thing so overpowered it could probably withstand a direct nuke hit. hell the filler rod and the gas alone probably cost you more than all the rest of the materials combined
Fixing the shank to the face mill is ridiculously over complicated and messy, a set screw in from the bottom right through the threads would hold it from unscrewing no problem and it would have been way neater, easier and quicker than that mess
I thort you ment somthing else at the start but the idea of it being the way it was is so that I can use the same r8 spindle for diffrent size cutters and tools that I plan to make 🔧
Why do you take such tiny cuts? You have ample grip on the work. Is your lathe limited in power? It seems in cood condition and your tooling is modern and sturdy. I suggest you practice taking capacity cuts on surplus material, increasing depth of cut and feed rate until you hear the motor labor and actually begin to stall. Efficient stock removal has several benefits. Your work goes quicker, you save on tooling inserrts, you make chips instead of birds nests making clean-up simpler, and your finished improve.
The lathe is a Boxford and Boxford lathes especially the mk3 wer perfect for teaching students on and wer adopted by manny schools. but due to new regulation most of them wer never used ....so the lathe is In amazing condition and from a school in Glasgow (hence the color coded chuck) ...but the lathes that wer fitted into schools only had a 0.75hp motor where's the home hobbie ons had a 1hp motor ....when turning down I take a 0.5mm pass or 1mm off the diameter ....as for the mill I'm still getting use to carbide but recently found out I can cut through 10mm steel in a single pass !
@@mooreevair I can't agree. A comfortable pace while working efficiently is one thing but endlessly sneaking up to desired part size and geometry stultifies skill development. I've had many apprentices in my clutches over the years and the most successful of these were self competitive to a degree. They pushed to define limits and then backed off to the "sweet spot" where productivity, safety, risk, job satisfaction, etc comfortably co-existed.
I believe that whould be due to the width of the material........the machine is also very noisey on deep cuts due to rattly spindle splins........ this will be fixed
![ATEEZ(에이티즈) - [GOLDEN HOUR : Part.2] Preview](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/X4PfgRPBUVo/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice thing you just made!
2.5mm alone is impressive enough for a "simple" home machinist type of setup and you want to go to the full 15mm? DANG!
Subscribing and clicking to find that next video :D
It brought back a lot of memories
Good work, only thing that bothered me was the voice of my uncle yelling at me "if you cover a bad weld you just have a bigger bad weld". 😁
Awesome work! If you ever make another, if you space the inserts at unequal angles between each pocket, it helps reduce resonant chatter when it's cutting.
Thanks .... note taken 👍
Makes sense, nice tip 👍
More welding rod 😤 … 4lbs wasn’t nearly enough I need more welding rod!
Me: If 1 rod is good then 2 is better. Since better is twice that of good then 4 would be best being twice as good as better …. But if 4 was best and 8 is better still than there can only be one conclusion: we multiply best by better still and Throw ALL 32 sticks at the thing like a champ! Then and only then will i call it good … 🔂 😙
I just can't comprehend how such precise work is accomplished. Blows my mind.
Fantastic work mate 👏 👍 👌
Thanks for sharing
It's a really nice job to made this tool.
Really good job brother.greetings from Turkiye
VERY NICE JOB, GREAT TOOL.
Cracking work! Thanks for sharing👍
Cheers
Great work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Spectacular build
That turned out amazing
A ton of work but really worth it, very nice!
Excellent job!
You’ve made something there that your grandkids could use u should be proud excellent work mate 👍🏽
That was fantastic
Happy Christmas best of the holidays for you an your,s
I know, MERRY CHRISTMAS & Happy Holidays and HAPPY N/YEAR 2023 to You and All. No Problem and All the BEST for this coming New Year...🤗👍💖✌️🙏✝️
I commend you for your tenacity in tapping the threads for the inserts. You must have found the inner most Zen for that stretch of work, lol. 👌😊
.........when somebody even mentions a tap & die set I start shaking 🤣 😂 😭
Great build you have done. 5star job.
Steve.
You're right you did spend a lot of time doing it but you're not done yet.
You need to remake the locking nut located on the bottom larger and counterbore a pocket for it so the bottom is completely smooth.
Then you need to black oxide your tooling to prevent surface rust. Then you're done.
Apsloutly agree about the black oxide ......however the nut on the bottom is a little trickier to unravel ...due to the cutter being made out of multiple plates and the nature of the cutting forces the nut on the bottom more or less helps to presses the plate together aswell as centralise things (even though welded) long story short space was becoming an issue and it was a balance between room and thickness.......
And I thought my welds were pretty
Talk about a work of art
Hello from spain...good video
Nice job.
Great job, but after all of that lovely work you make the R-8 shaft out of rebar which is purposely made soft so it can bend. That kind of shafting needs to be out of 4140 or 1045 so it is ridged under that kind of pressure.
good job 👍, greeting's from Indonesia 🇲🇨🙏
15mm depth of cut sounds awesome, I want to see that
Great video! I'm surprised at how few subscribers you have
One more now, I’m in! 😄👍
Hi, thanks for video.What kind of steel did you use?
Hello from France (Normandy), very nice video on the manufacture of a surfacing plate. very often used to surface an engine cylinder head or engine moc block. and with so many machining inserts you should have a very nice surface provided you have the right feed rate per revolution. 😊
ps/ on the other hand what a shame that you didn't activate automatic translation on the video.☺
Very nice job.
Thanks for sharing.
I just subscribed to your channel.
Take care, Ed
Excellent job. New subscriber.
I’m wondering if a harder steel than rebar would have been a better selection for the shaft.
That part alone will be suffering a huge amount of deflection, even under light use.
Agreed ...but unfortunately it was the only bit of steel I had that was big-enough...just some old sections of dywidag bar my dad dragged back from work ....which is abit more consistent than rebar ...but it is high tensile steel with carbon content upto 0.80% which chould be hardend.....although that may warp things out of Shape...
What's he using for lubricant, used motor oil?
Хорошая работа!
Great video
amazing video, instant subscribe
how much weld should i use sir? use all of it SIR? ALL OF IT I SAID!!!
Das hat mein vollen Respekt,Ausdrehköpfe für s Bohrwerk auch schon mit Härten gemacht,aber einen kompletten Fräskopf Woh! Cool Anjo56
Mad Lads: Heavy Metal Edition
Great. When you change the chuck you oil the thread or centring? You have experience with seizing?
On the lathe I allways oil everything I can to try and minimise ware and keep things smooth.....but tbh I use excessive amounts of (iso68) oil on all my machines.......that lathe is about 20 years older than me but still in amazing condition...
I'm not a machinist and admittedly, I know very little regarding this industry-I'm merely fascinated by this type of work. There is one thing I don't understand though; where are all the machinist who do understand what they're seeing? Seems this channel would have 267k subscribers not 2.67k-well done.
probably lack of exposure? I'm a toolmaker/moldmaker, and this was the first I heard of the channel.
That's quite impressive, I've got some boxes of inserts with no cutters for them unfortunately they are a funny shape I can't readily mill a pocket for.
Maybe one day when I get CNC capabilities
I always wondered how hard it is to do electric discharge milling at home. There are a few videos on youtube about that. You should be able to sink just about any shape into a perfect fit hole that way... perfect for odd inserts, in theory. As far as i understand that theory.
Worth considering if I have a need for it, currently I’m happy using my other more regular face mills
All that work, for that simple part 😂.
nicely made , mightve gone about making it in a little different order , basicly first smooth the mating surfaces where the parts lay on top of eachother with a good center hole through and through . bolt through all the parts to clamp them together together to weld them in one go
then use the center hole and a temporary way of mounting to chuck the part in and machine the circumference of everything with the hole mostly in the center
use the outer surface to chuck it in and clock it out so its centered along the circumference and mostly level against the face and bore out the center hole for the tool holder
machine the toolholder mount it in the hole mount the toolholder in the chuck (maibe make a precision receiver for that type of taper to put in the chuck or adapt it to the taper in the lathe i bet that comes in handy in the future ) then machine the 3 surfaces to size so its perfectly square to the toolholder and do the chairdance between the divider on the mill and lathe to cut the pockets and finish the underside
guess im going to look around for a source of that superthick rebar as i bet thats a lot cheaper than buying round stock in that diameter , should be ok steel
Tolle Leistung einen Messerkopf / Planfräser selbst herzustellen. Nur rechnet man den Zeitaufwand und das Material müsste das Werkzeug fast vergoldet sein, Ein Fräser dieser Größe kostet ca. 500,00€. Ich rechne dass man einen Tag für die komplette Herstellung benötigt. Bei 8 Stunden und einem Maschinensatz je nachdem was für eine Maschine im Einsatz ist CNC oder konventionell von ca. 150 / Std. konventionell, sind das 1200,00 €. Ob sich das lohnt? Ach ja was ich noch anzufügen hätte, es gibt ein Spruch: "Ich bin der Dreher eilig, was ich nicht dreh das schmiergel und feil ich..." . Trotzdem eine klasse Leistung.
Is it just the video or does it look like the taper is not seated and it’s bottoming on the anti rotation hold down?
Yh I achwelly thort this aswell but when you get the light behind it you can see a thin line .... just a very cloce tolerance 😁
nice build . . . you make it shinier and shinier then you hit it with a bundle of those little ugly sticks . . . now you have to make it shiny again.
It looks great and I’m wondering, are the drawings for this available to us? How can you tell if all the insets are cutting on the same plane?
How did you determine the angle to cut the pockets to in order to achieve the optimal relief cutting angle when the inserts were installed?
I just watched this for the second time and realized I didn’t post my other questions, why not just weld the shaft in place? It looks to me that a lot of work could be saved by making the R8 shaft a press fit and then welded from the bottom. It would eliminate the four screws, the two bars they hold and the cap and screw under the shell mill itself plus you could machine the weld flush giving it a better appearance. All this while assuring less possibilities for an unbalanced shell mill.
excelente trabalho 👏👏👏👍
Where does rebar that big even come from?
This looks like rebar but is achwelly dywidag bar (dividag bar)...essentially its a massive bolt that has a verry corse thread down its length..thease are used as tie bars to hold shuttering together as well as various other concrete structures .....
Amazing Job!!!!!
Can you harden rebar?
Not as far as I'm aware think you need atleast 0.5% carbon to harden it and rebar is at most 0.3% rebar is kinda abit of a mix of steels ...But on the other hand some scorces say it can be hardend however I think that is referring to specific grades of rebar I haven't myself tried to harden the rebar I have on hand but it can be cace harden unfortunately I don't have the facilities to do so ....
This is a cool build. The only thing you should probably learn to avoid doing is climb milling. That and improper fixturing is why your endmill pulled your workpiece out of the vise. Best case scenario you end up with a mess up cutting tool or workpiece. Worst case scenario you end up with a chunk of steel embedded somewhere in your body
absolutely not. if the setup is rigid, you will get better results climb milling almost every time.. even with roughers.
@wordwyrd does it leave a better surface finish? Yes. However, you should almost never climb mill on a manual. If that machine has any backlash, you risk damaging the machine or chucking your part out of the vise
@wordwyrd I also want to add that when I was in school I literally had a chunk of carbide embedded into my arm because the idiot on the machine behind me decided it was ok to climb mill
@@ryanthede4689 it's definitely going to require you adjust your gibs and use correct speed and not overfeed.. generally on a manual machine I will use conventional milling until the last 2 passes, and do a semi-finish pass (no more than .040) and whatever my finish pass is climbing. By then I will have the speed dialed in pretty well even if it's by ear.
That said, trade school is definitely not going to be a place to try this kind of finessing. Half the kids there are running mills at half the speed they should (or double etc.), overfeeding by scary amounts, etc. Honestly, I was perfectly happy when my instructor limited everyone to HSS only back in the day.
I guess what I am saying is try it out for lighter cuts, just make sure your work is secure and you adjust the gibs (try to lock the axis you aren't cutting in too of course). I've had success with that on everything from a 1/4HP desktop to a big knee mill that was a chinese bridgeport knockoff, and the only time I ever had the slightest issue was when I didn't have the gibs close.
Great video and work! Any plans by chance 😬
Unfortunately no everything I make is designed in my head 🤯.... but I'm happy to share any dimensions, tips and techniques for you to make your own....
Very cool! What is the thick black substance you use for threading cutting?
Well used engine oil 🤣
Nice project. Do you think the insert holder tips need to be hardened(quench and anealed) or is this the industry standard?
That turned out Ok. Well done. My next tool would be a tap extension for that work on the mill and a tailstock chuck for power tapping on the lathe.😵💫
Nice! What machine are you running and controller?
Boxford mk3 made on (10/11/79) a bridgepoet made by adcock and shipley with a 2hp motor ...and a wm18 mill that I converted to cnc and a 2hp motor with 5k spindle speed ...... all running chinease 380v single to 3phase converters
Excellent work, you earned a sub from me!
Exelente Herramienta
health to your hands❤
The inserts on commercial cutters are on small incline for the depth so that when it advances every insert is cutting some. You get that buzzing sound as it cuts, on this you get tap tap tap as the first insert cuts then the second one has no material until the end of the advance as the previous leaves the material. Then the next one again has a full cut and so on. But still nice build, I’m too lazy to make tools and buy them.
Around Christmas 🎄 I'll be making another video going over a few bits ...that taping sound as the cutter hits the material is achwelly the top of the machine I believe its the splines that's drives the spindle as the noise can be reduced by holding the draw bar .........this will be fixed
انت بارع جدا في عملك
For a fly cutter, it is over design. But you got the talent.........
Bardzo świetna jest zrobiona ta robota ale pytanie do czego to nabyć i służyć pozdrawiam twórcę tego filmiku 👍👍
Nice video and great project! =)
I was wondering... is it because you couldnt get your hands on big enough material that you decided to weld that much? Probably would have been faster to turn down some larger stock hehe
Yh👍the thickest steel I had at the time was only 15mm. I opted for this design because I thort it whould be the most rigid and reduce chatter/vibration. also the amount of weld I used was achwelly essential to the design of the pocket for the insert .🛠🗜 I suppose in the long run there was manny ways to make this 🤔
@@allangles4020 The end justifies the means, as they say! =) You got a very good tool out of it, so you def succeeded.
I'm a machinist/CNC programmer in my daily job - and youre right: 5 guys given the same job will make it 5 different ways.
Merry christmas
Merry Christmas to you aswell 🎄
nice
you should think about at least starting the taps with the quill. if you don't like power tapping, at least put it in high gear and manually start a fre threads, ir use a spring loaded tap follower?
VERY NICE PIECE! I would like to make one, for my self, is it possible to have a drawing from You?
I would be very thankful, if so.
This would be a crown juvel, in my "toolbox".
Just now, I am making a major repair, to my milling machine.
Just bought it and, it was mede to "sales condition", it lacked a locking screw for table feed, vertically.
So, short: I tried it back home, and fed it down on automatic feed, till I thought, it would stop. Not so, it went straight to total stop, in the end of the feeding screw, and was stuck.
This cost me 1500 euro`s+ some hundreds, for two gears! And a lot of work time. So, I am in the lack of a tool like this.
If You are able to helt me, I would be very thankful.
From a Finn in Diaspora.
I'm more than happy to help ..I have no drawings or plans I can send you as everything I make is designed in my head.... but I'm happy to pour over all the key details and sizes inordder for you to make your own............
Form- oder Kraftschlüssig? As 💰🥱
Great video! More talking please. Subscirbed
Failitacoin pour ta pièce 😅 bravo
Great work. Like the format of your video as well. Just enough talking. Glad you measure in mm and not 🍌🍌. Cheers from South Africa.
🤣
Nothing looks worse than a deep scratch in a high polish 😩
🤫😂😂
There was no sense to weld that much. Just one 5-7 mm bead on circle was be enough, moreover, on 230Amps there wasn't need to add rosd at all.
Yh I guess there was manny ways to make this🤔 .I thort this way whould produce the most sturdy cutter and whould reduce chatter and vibration the most..... but more importantly all the excess weld was achwelly essential to the pocket design for the insert 🗜
Шедеврально
bro 😂 why did you lay that much weld on there?? that thing so overpowered it could probably withstand a direct nuke hit. hell the filler rod and the gas alone probably cost you more than all the rest of the materials combined
🤣
Fixing the shank to the face mill is ridiculously over complicated and messy, a set screw in from the bottom right through the threads would hold it from unscrewing no problem and it would have been way neater, easier and quicker than that mess
I thort you ment somthing else at the start but the idea of it being the way it was is so that I can use the same r8 spindle for diffrent size cutters and tools that I plan to make 🔧
Очень сложная конструкция можно быто сделать все на много проще
Кагда коту делать нечего он яйца лижет эти фрезы продаются заводские!
Why do you take such tiny cuts? You have ample grip on the work. Is your lathe limited in power? It seems in cood condition and your tooling is modern and sturdy.
I suggest you practice taking capacity cuts on surplus material, increasing depth of cut and feed rate until you hear the motor labor and actually begin to stall. Efficient stock removal has several benefits. Your work goes quicker, you save on tooling inserrts, you make chips instead of birds nests making clean-up simpler, and your finished improve.
Id love to hear his answer, but I'd say one thing I've learned is if you have the time , then taking your time to make something lends better results.
The lathe is a Boxford and Boxford lathes especially the mk3 wer perfect for teaching students on and wer adopted by manny schools. but due to new regulation most of them wer never used ....so the lathe is In amazing condition and from a school in Glasgow (hence the color coded chuck) ...but the lathes that wer fitted into schools only had a 0.75hp motor where's the home hobbie ons had a 1hp motor ....when turning down I take a 0.5mm pass or 1mm off the diameter ....as for the mill I'm still getting use to carbide but recently found out I can cut through 10mm steel in a single pass !
@@mooreevair I can't agree. A comfortable pace while working efficiently is one thing but endlessly sneaking up to desired part size and geometry stultifies skill development. I've had many apprentices in my clutches over the years and the most successful of these were self competitive to a degree. They pushed to define limits and then backed off to the "sweet spot" where productivity, safety, risk, job satisfaction, etc comfortably co-existed.
Разве виноваты мы что родились в России.....
Disco cnc, lol
Ок
842
制作技术一般般
Жю
can no one else in these comments hear that it's only cutting with one or two inserts? i mean nice try and all, buuuttttt....... meh
I believe that whould be due to the width of the material........the machine is also very noisey on deep cuts due to rattly spindle splins........ this will be fixed
Yeah mate, your top quality Chinese one cuts with at least 3 inserts doesn't it, haha - knob
could have bought a face mill for $200 waste of time
part of the fun is making the tools yourself
21:50 как называется это прибор, для определения геометрии или плоскостей ???
What is that old motor oil your using for cutting?
Indeed it is
@@allangles4020 yeah that's what I thought too, you wanna burn that shit and keep warm - not make yourself look like a chimney sweep!
Все понял и как бы оценил,👍🏻☝🏻 но не могу понять зачем столько лишних манипуляций?🤷🏻♂️☝🏻
아무리 잘해도 안전이 우선이다 장갑을 좀 끼고 일을하거라 보기가 많이 불편하구나 니는 손이 10개냐 거반하게 하지말고 나는 장갑을 끼면 일을 하니못하니 하는말은 거반스러운 행동이다 장갑살 돈이 없냐 좀 보내줘랴
Nice