Making A Face Mill For The Milling Machine
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- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2023
- G'day everyone,
In this video I will be making a face mill for the milling machine. A face mill is a cutter that is used on large milling machines to quickly remove large sections of material. Face mills however are aimed towards large, production machining, and I doubt that any of the off the shelf models would work well on my milling machine. However since I have a small machine shop making one to suit my mill should be possible. I picked up some SEHT inserts for the job. I will be making the body from some cold drawn steel. I hope you enjoy the video.
Timestamps
0;00 - Introduction
3:28 - Design & Solidworks Model
4:28 - Machining The body On The Lathe
7:50 - Machining The Face Mill On The Milling machine
10:35 - Finished Face Mill
11:07 - Testing The Face Mill
#machining #diy 
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on behalf of all the engineers and designers "no we will not design things that can be made, get a 9 axis machining center"
Seriously DFM is overrated. Kidding, we should always think about how to make it.
Thats actually a really impressive design challenge! You should definitely heat treat/cold blue it to finish it off!
Good stuff, man! I like that you gave it that cool factor and I especially got a kick out of the compound angle setup on the dividing head.
Cheers man, precision eyeballing like never before :)
@@artisanmakes: I was curious about how you achieved that setup with the dividing head. So, you used the good ol' eye-crometer? You should show us how it works next time!
:)
Set up with a protractor and roughly swept with a dial indicator. The angles weren’t too important
We need a "Tell you what" counter.
I think I’ve been watching too much king of the hill recently:)
@@artisanmakes Tell you what, that's not a bad idea.
Damn it Bobby
There was definitely a hint of a hwhat in there
Nice job 👍. You will be getting really good at vacuuming as a bonus ! These things are just the messiest tool in the workshop.
I tell you what... that's a pretty impressive tool you made there with the lathe and mill that you have.
Seriously, we'll done!
Plus there is the challenge of making your own and the experience you'll gain.
Priceless.
Excellent job, very impressive.
I have beed taught that the cutting faces must be offset, to eliminate resonance vibrations. In a case of three cutters, one of them is offset two or three degrees, not 120 equally. And also, you can add a plate behind the inserts to increase, or decrease the angle of attack. I've only made cutting tools for lathes on benchgrinders so far, don't belive me :)
That can be useful on specific tooling with many tips - however it complicates matters as each tooth is now taking a different depth of cut on a 3 tooth cutter - 118, 120 and 122 you have introduced through DoC progression a differential spindle load which can increase spindle bearing wear.
Bare in mind I'm not saying you are wrong, just that in 3 tip cutters specifically, it is rarely a good plan
Like you I use a lot of hot rolled steal. I'm a pipe fitter by trade and worked at a fab-shop. Most machinists never use the hot rolled, but we use what we got.
Welcome to the club of tool makers! That one in particular could become a bestseller 😊
Nice job. One thing I would do is go ahead and grind off the hook that was created by drilling through the back face. Spinning as fast as it does, the flutes will act like a fan and will tend to suck things in where it will be grabbed by those hooks. Whether it's a long chip or an inadvertent shirt sleeve string or shop rag...it's just best not to have anything that will grab like that. Otherwise I like what you did there, nice project.
Yes, I looked at those hooks and was a bit uneasy about them. Now if I am uneasy about something, then that means that it is dangerous and should be dealt with. We shall see what Artisan does or says.
This is a really great home shop project, good job! Just a suggestion from a guy who learned on mini mills before moving up to bigger mills. If you make cutters made for larger material removal rates (such as a face mill) it really helps with rigidity if you make it’s shank the spindle shank so that you don’t have to put it in a collet. I know that’s not easy, and not as modular if you move up to a bigger machine in the future, but it really does make a huge difference in the cut. Still great work though!
Great video, these kind of projects are a fantastic learning experience!
Only thing I'm worried about is the stem/arbor to body transition. It seems like you've machined a groove instead of a nice large radius fillet, making it a breaking/failure point which could send the kinda hefty body flying through the shop.
So satisfying to build your own tools!
Love the cross slide power feed :)
Getting your feeds and speeds correct is very important.
Sadly I’ve forgotten almost everything I learned about the subject back in the mists of the last century. But I believe you can find feeds and speeds calculator charts online.
Essentially, you need to ensure that the material does not advance beyond what the cutting edges can cope with. There are of course upper and lower spindle speeds, as well as cutter surface speeds for each material. Operating within those tolerances, you set the material advance speed to match.
Somehow I seem to recall we used our instincts most of the time. But that was after lots of training, and too many boring hours of standing at the same machine, shift after boring shift.
Even though we were making experimental aero engine parts, and there was some variation, plus working in various milling, grinding and turning departments, it was nothing like hobby work. After 6 years I had to escape. Now I have a strange nostalgia for such work, but only for myself, and at my pace.
This is a nicely executed tool. Thank you for sharing.
That's beautiful! Thank you very much for posting!
I'm planning to make a carbide tipped cutter myself for an application where a home-made cutter is much better than off-the-shelf alternatives (milling very deep inside a hole) - watching your video has been a big help!
Gday, you have nailed it, bloody awesome build, the mill handles it with no problems at all, very impressive mate, cheers
I'll tell you what: that's some pretty impressive chips! 😁
You have absolutely outdone yourself this time. That part looks and works fabulously. Nice job!
Very excellent and practical. Thank you❤️👍🙏
Wow looks really good, store quality 👌
Great stuff, one small tip, you should always feed against the fast jaw, that gives maximum rigidity. Cheers.
Sharp inserts like that work well on titanium as well. A real bonus for set ups that are not rigid
That's cool as heck. You've really got these hobby machines dialed in!
Thanks for sharing this experience. That gives me the idea to try myself.
Now this was awesome! The results are incredible and for machines like yours, as you said, its really a game changer!
Nice shell mill and nice video. I liked the Solidworks part also.
The high rake aluminium inserts do tend to work well in the smaller lower horsepower machines.
They are surprisingly durable too. Better than I expected when using them on steel.
Everytime you say "I tell you what", I envision Hank Hill from King of the Hill :)
The aluminum inserts are definitely helping the lower powered machine thanks to the high cut angles.
man you did a good job on this project. real good job.
Congratulations, that's a great result!
Good project. Good editing and good narration.
My man turnin into Hank Hill.
"Mills and Mill Accessories"
I tell you hwhat
Taste the meat not the heat
Great job on this. I admit I had my doubts in the beginning of the video. But I was very impressed with how it turned out.
Agreed - he's done a stellar job and the results speak for themselves. Loved watching the facemill develop from the blank bar of steel.
I like your design, it has got me thinking. That's a stubby shell cutter, I wonder just how stubby it could be made. I have a full size mill and most jobs I get are to big for the mill requiring me to move the part and re-set it up.
I think the first inserts would be good for cleaning up a "rugged" piece... maybe something rusted or that has scale on it... stuff that would normally eat a 'sharp' carbide insert.
Anyways, great video and project.
Well, I'll tell you what! That looks pretty good :)
Hank Hill approves.
Man, that tool is just beautiful! Congrats!
The only thing I hope is that you won’t advance your knowledge to a point at that you’d build your own band saw… 😳😅
you would be chuffed alright. that is a great tool. It must feel good to have the ability to design and manufacture your own tools. I am very impressed.
With your pretty meager setup, your results are very impressive. Great looking tool.
Let's face the fact that this is a very cool project 😎
Outstanding! Love the compact single piece design 🙂
Cheers, great project. Thanks for sharing.
You did I hell of a job on that great work
That's a beautiful facemill, and your mill is absolutely chewing through the material. Loved the gold chips. And as you said (paraphrasing), looks like a bought one! :)
As good as always!
Can You please share the angles it will be a great tool for my work shop.
Great build, great design and awesome video.
Thanks for sharing.
Very nicely done! You made it seem simple.
"Every engineer please make stuff that can actually be made" - 10 hours later: has to machine clearance pockets into the part to be able to drill the insert retaining screw holes 😂
(Also I enjoy your content).
That was factored into the design like it is within most facemills. Cheers
Very interesting project and nice results.
I am not sure which type of hotrolled steel you used, but aluminium inserts and stainless/CrMo/highspeed steel gets tricky. Or that is my experience at least...
If I may I would like to encourage you to try the Korloy HA PC9030 inserts. In my opinion they work all the way to ~55Hrc and with non ferrous like plastics. As they are sharp they also work well with less rpm and horsepower. If one goes "all in, full speed" there might be better choises, but with possibility to adapt and slow down they work surprisengly (?) well...
Those high rake inserts are what came with with my Tormach superfly fly cutter
Love your videos, I know nothing about machining or mills but I can't stop watching
Careful, it's addictive and before you know it you will be wanting your own workshop set up.
@@markfryer9880 I can feel my need to spend money taking over
You could probably use those other inserts where finishing isn't critical for the surface or try your hand at making a 45 deg lathe tool from them. As for the depth of cut for the non aluminum cutters, a slower feed rate should allow you to take more. A power feed on the table axis' should make it much more do able if you have one. But I'm guessing that's been put on the back burner.
Hope this helps.
Look great, performs great, awesome design and build 👍
A really nice job . It seems it is the way to go since the stuff being sold in the stores are just not up to the task .
I'm glad your design worked for you!
Bravo! 😊
Before you used it, you really should've set it for rebuild parameters. Nice workmanship! Great hands on learning!
Good work as usual. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
I'm impressed!!
Well done! 👍
Absolutely 💯 mate 👍
I decent band saw is not that expensive and it is hands down the fastest way to get stock down to near finish size. I can’t imagine having a shop without one.
Отличная работа!
This tool came out very amezing! Godd job!
Awesome project!
Year a very interesting video and a very advanced project you’ve realised. Well done! Please continue with content like that.
I'm a bit leary of face mills at the moment, I've blown the gearbox on my mill twice, both times using face mills, both times took 2 months to get repaired under warranty. I'm sticking with endmills for now.
That router bit was a real champ hogging through all that material, albeit with the help of your precision.
Have you considered making the R8 shank as part of the tool? It may help with rigidity and concentricity
Great design and build. Job well done 👍
Great job 👌👍
Awesome tooling!!
Fantastic, thanks
Awesome build.
Nice job!
"Just because it looks like it can be made does not mean it actually can." should be a plaque on every engineer's workplace.
If only
brilliant!
I tell ya what, that's a nice looking face mill
Lots of geometry there. Well done.
Fantastic tool you will get a lot of use out of it thanks for sharing cheers.
Top Job, Sir 👌
6:36 disposable rag exactly the one we had at home.
Really cool looking tool! Thanks for sharing, I really enjoyed :)
Very impressive.
Impressive 👌🏼
Fair play mate good design and good execution. It must be so satisfying to be able to make your own tooling to the specs that you want.
Really well done. A nice new tool. Have a great weekend.
I make a small face mill similar in design to this one but it uses a slightly different insert tcgt. I would love for you to give one a try and see how it compares to the segt. Awesome work by the way.
Very impressive Great job.
Nice job!👍😎
Sounds like a Upgrading the Sieg to 1.5kw vid is upcoming :)
Still nice I do run a Opti 20vl with a 3kw Servo with a 6 Insert Boehlerit Shell Mill with up to 3 mm depth.
very good job. Greetings from Argentina 🇦🇷👍
You could make an identical tool and have the tougher inserts for roughing and the better ones for finnishing.
Tidy job 👍
Brilliant..... might just make one of those... 🙂
Nice job man! I've tried some carbide inserts (S, C and D types) on a small lathe (Sieg C6) and my conclusion is that the inserts for aluminium are really sharp and they leave a very good finish, for more rough work on steel I used inserts for steel with a sharp edge (dedicated for finishing passes). I also tried inserts for steel dedicated for roughing passes but those doesn't behave well on a small lathe (rigidity issues due to higher cutting force).
Neat, I’ve found d shaped inserts work the best, whether they be The generic dcmt or sharper DCGT. Never had too much luck with cnmg or similar
@@artisanmakes I use CCGX and SCGX types size 09. Negative rake inserts (second letter N) require a good amount of power and rigidity so those aren't suitable for bench top lathes.