FORBIDDEN PEAK - An Unforgettable Alpine Climbing Experience
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- Опубликовано: 17 июн 2024
- On August 28th I set off with my brother to make an attempt on Forbidden Peak, a glacial horn towering over 8,800 feet located in the North Cascades National Park. Our goal was the legendary West Ridge route, one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. The following is our story.
For the full trip report with all my best climbing beta and photography, please also check out my blog here: www.altoid.us/forbidden
Thank you for watching. This is only the beginning!
00:00 Intro
00:20 The Approach
04:17 Forbidden Glacier, Bergschrund Crossing, Ice Cave
06:00 The Gully
09:34 The Ridge
14:20 The Summit
14:37 Rock Descent
18:17 Snow Descent (Glissade!)
19:14 Deapproach
"free soloist passes us by" classic
Nicely done guys. Very good video coverage and some pretty exciting terrain too. Congrats on marking that one off.
Legendary climb, and legendary vid. Great experience!
Unbeatable bonding experience and impressive on multiple levels!
Absolutely incredible!
Thx for the beta 💪👌, nice video man
What an awesome video. Congratulations on summiting and a safe return.
What a day, you guys shredded it! So beautiful up there. I've climbed several routes in the Washington pass area throughout the years, your day shred reminds me of younger times, thanks for the video.
You guys rock! Amazing commitment
Amazing climb, amazing video!
Beautiful footage! Well done. 👏
Great video, so inspiring! The music works really well with the visuals.
Fantastic video of what looks like a breathtaking climb!
"new rock just dropped" got me, i must admit. Great climb and great video!
Wow- my knees were shaking at the top, lol. Great job you guys. Can't wait to go on another adventure with you.
Nice! I did the W. Ridge and E. Ridge Direct routes, and this takes me right back! Thanks.
Just found this channel, hope to see more awesome videos like this one. There was some really great shots and the climbing looked epic!
Thank you! I'm working hard on the next one already!
Nice job! Thanks for the Video!
BALLS!! That is awesome!!! Thanks for posting.
high on my list of opbjectives. The whole Inspiration Traverse would be epic. I love that group
Great video and an amazing climb. You're inspiring us to seek new adventures in the world of climbing. Looking forward to the next video.
Thank you Tim! I can't wait to share the next one!
Thank you for creating and sharing this video of your climb. My son climbed it with a relatively unknown partner that ended up being slower than expected, so they spent an unplanned night out. Your video gave me a better understanding of the climb (though I don't know what route they took). Looks like a lot of vertical in one day!!! Congrats on a fine adventure : )
What fantastic footage of what had to have been a phenomenal day! Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you Adara!
I loved this. It made travel from the comfort of my home.
I wanna see the mountains again, like Bilbo !
Cheers from Lille, France.
Well placed pro and thoughtful leading.
Epic video!
This has been on my to-do for years but always seemed like it was a hair over my skill level. Great vid, loved the Lord Huron feature.
Couldn't help but sing Way Out There. It was just perfect for that moment.
Off belay.. thxs for the journey.. nicely done, wonderful film. Massive skills.
In AWE! I can't imagine the difficulty in climbing AND capturing such great footage at the same time. Tons of gear to be juggling. Makes me want to move from Colorado to Washington. Subscribed and looking forward to more content!
Thank you CIP!
very beautiful mountains view
Well done!
Great video. This climb has been on my list for a long time. I tried to go a few years back but was partially injured and didn’t want to risk it so we ended up doing the Becky route on Liberty Bell instead and this fell off the list. This video just inspired me to add it back to my list. Thanks.
incredible work!! 🤍
nice video, great edit 👍
love the floating ice shots on the way up
Those ice caves (moats) were sweet
Well done, really enjoyed your video. Reminds me so much of our Southern Alps. ATB Cheers from the mountains of NZ 😀😀
Thank you! Enjoy your NZ mountains, they are beautiful 😍
I appreciate videos like this from you climbers giving us an inside glimpse of the mountains. I find it fascinating. Mother Nature gave me a large, ogre like body type so I couldn’t safely do it even if I wanted to..
Saw the thumbnail on reddit. Cool ascent man 🤙🏽
Great filming guys!!! I have climbed into Bostin Basin many times. Climbed the West Ridge like you did but we were earlier in the year and the approach gully was filled in to the top. We had many more teams on the route when we did it. We ended up simul-climbing off route to get around them. We also did it in 1 day. Well done to you, it takes a different sort to do that route in 1 day.
I've done Sahale pk, Bostin peak and ElDorado there.
Thank you! The basin is so beautiful, I hope to do Boston and ElDorado one day. Climb on!
Nice work Simon
Thank you Martin!
very nice, good choice of music
Washington granite, some of the best you'll find anywhere on earth. The Cascades are just PACKED with world class climbing. 😊
It's true! From Index to the Enchantments, Washington surely provides.
Nice video. I am glad to see even some of the descent and not just the ascent (which many videos otherwise just shows). There are many videos on how to climb up but not many of how to repel.
Thank you! Yes, most seem to think the adventure is over at the summit, but there's usually still many dangerous hours of descending and driving to go
@@SimonHoke Yes, it is. When you got to the summit you have only got half the way... I've got an expression: You are not home until you got inside your door...
I live in Sweden and ascend mountains in Sweden and Norway. It is my passion. (Easier ascends, especially since I am always going solo.) There are some ascents I have made where I couldn't quite feel relaxed on the summit, since I knew I got some tricky parts on the way down.
I am glad you pointed out even the driving. For me one of the most dangerous and tiring part of my trips are the driving. I have made many ascents during one day and driving when tired (in the morning and the evening). Especially during late autumn, the winter and spring with icy and snowy roads is a challange. Thanks for showing the whole experince.
nice!
Fucking wow! Climbing, taping and editing. Impressive. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Jonathan!
That was absolutely amazing! I just got into the climbing world and have been looking to find some sort of video like this. Glad to have come across it on reddit! Just subscribed as well! Will you be doing more climbing videos in the future?
I'm glad you enjoyed it and welcome to the climbing world! I'll definitely do more climbing videos
@@SimonHoke thanks man! Cool looking forward to them
@@XSProgression Replying to your reddit comment: For this climb (in a day), you need to be generally prepared for 6k gain, moderate snow / glacier travel, and considerable run-outs and exposure on low 5th. Confident 5.9 trad leaders would probably be prepared. I started climbing five years ago, but you could get all the right skills either much quicker or much slower since everyone is on a different journey
@@SimonHoke Thanks for the detailed reply! Now I have an idea of what to aim for. Some of that stuff is honestly over my head, but now I'm at least exposed to the terminology and can take it to research and training. I appreciate it 👍👍
16:35 I know them salami, cheese, n crackers were hittin
☝️☝️
Great video - I enjoyed it. In the next video, can you show the audience the moment in which the climber's finger gets stuck in a crack and he falls? & the entire meat of the finger comes off with the ring?
Hey @CarterHoke, new project!
nise!
How do you rappel off the summit? Do you leave gear behind or do you sling the rope around a rock and rap off that? I would think that would be risky if it gets stuck and can’t be retrieved. Sick edit and will be looking out for more.
Thanks Paul, I can't wait to share my next vid too!
This route has plenty of rap stations (slings and rings and bolts) so we only had to leave like two carabiners behind. You're right that the raps were kinda risky, mainly because the route is so low angle and traversing. Thankfully our pulls were all clean 🙂
You guys really had your shit together. Good job..
Thank you Brodie!
Bailed on an attempt of the VerbotenHorn as a neophyte in 1976, did the West Ridge early '80s cruising in a similar fashion as you, but a major electric storm hit at cat scratch and things went so dark it took an hour to find our mashed packs in the basin. Type II fun for sure!
A good follow up is the West Ridge of Prusik, SW Rib of SEWS or NE ridge of Triumph.
Yikes!
We've done Prusik and SEWS before - I'll check out Triumph
@@SimonHoke Triumph is very similar...OK climbing but incredible views of the Picketts. Longer hike though.
There might be a newer route on the SE that is 5.8/9 or so...I thought I saw a recent report.
The all-time 5.7 is Snake Dyke on Half Dome though...despite the recent accident.
Washington granite, some of the best you'll find anywhere on earth. The Cascades are just PACKED with world class climbing. 😊
Great work, what camera are you using? I film some of my climbs on a gopro 9 and my footage doesn't look close to this, would love to hear about your setup!
Thank you! I'm filming on my A7IV, a full-frame mirrorless camera, and this video was entirely on the 20mm G lens (with the exception of a few smartphone shots thrown in)
@@SimonHoke wow props on hauling all of that gear up along with your other gear!
Hey Simon, awesome work! I would love to get out with you sometime this year - seems like we could craft some epic mountain content together ✌❤🏔
Hey, thank you! Let's do a Bulger together in the summer!
@@SimonHoke Yes, please! Something in the Pickets could be nice as well!
deifnitely very scary! i would be even more scared at night of bears and other animals!
Never did climb that one
How do you mount your in reach so it does not move on your backpack strap?
Usually I just keep the inreach inside my pack, but when I'm tracking I'll clip it with the carabiner behind a backpack strap, most of my packs have dividers along the straps that keep it up if that makes sense
Ya, Fuckin cool...
Killer!!!!
after the summit you go back all the way the same way you came?
Yes, we did descend the same route! It was a combination of rappelling and downclimbing
What equipment did you use to shoot the video?
Thanks for watching - I shot it with a Sony FE 20mm f/1.8 G lens and a A7IV camera
@@SimonHoke thank you. I love the vedio.
i thnk i will pass on this one, lol
Yeah, same
I know you are new to climbing, Forbidden is a perfect practice mountain and GORGEOUS setting as well! But, on 3rd/4th class terrain like Forbidden, learn to do simul climbing. Much safer as it is quicker(especially relevant in thunderstorm country)drops fewer rocks as less rope dragging and those who do get dropped have less speed to your partner below as you are close together. Remember, 3 pieces of pro in the rock at all times in simulclimbing if EITHER partner wants security. Otherwise, 2 is fine on 3rd class or even 4th class; KNOW your partner. Bring more slings than for single pitch climbing to speed things up even more. Doubles of #1.5, #2 cams helps as well if you can afford them or just use medium size nuts in duplicate/triplicate is lighter/cheaper yet.
Hi! Thank you for watching and the comment. "New" is relative and it seems like a considerable sandbag to call Forbidden a "practice mountain", but thank you for the simul info. I didn't focus on that aspect for the video but we were simuling nearly all of the route.
@@SimonHoke Ah, yes. Good simul training! Good to know! At least the ridge is solid. Anything below 5th with no ice is a practice mountain when you can climb it in running shoes by complete newbs. Almost everything in the Cascades are practice mountains. The 5500vert makes it a longer practice mountain. Heck, the tooth is harder and more sustained climbing.
@@w8stral
Not sure if you're trying to sound like an ass, but you're succeeding.
If there was a compliment anywhere in your comments it was a backhanded one and the rest was just putdowns and diminishment of their climb by someone who may have never climbed a mountain not on a computer screen as far as any of the rest of us know.
@@Mudpuppyjunior Ah, the cheer squad without any confidence comment. Get out of the basement and do something like the rest of us please and gain confidence to put perspective on how one makes/receives comments in this world. No cheer squad is required. The world is not your mommy.
And yes, Forbidden is a perfect practice peak. Almost every mountain/route in Cascades are practice routes. A few exceptions out there but rare. Forbidden is not one of them.
“I know you are new to climbing….” What an ignorant comment to make. I climbed waterfall ice WI 3 and 4, alpine in US Canada and Argentina and did some rock climbing. Speed is important BUT depending on who your partner is, what the experience is of both, the conditions both terrain and weather/time of year, one can free solo, simul climb or belay. In my day there were so many better climbers than I but after reading decades of the annual Accidents in North American Mountaineering I realized that mistakes and/or neglect are so common with severe consequences that it is foolhardy to tell someone how they should or should not do the route. I turned back many times re weather, rock or ice conditions, fatigue, time or just not feeling right. All of us know far too many who have been injured or suffered fatal injuries. In conclusion, great video and great job by the Hoke brothers. I do agree with Simon that thankfully the rope didn’t get stock on moderate terrain after rapping and pulling the rope. It’s all about being safe, having fun, trusting your climbing partner and not being a cowboy.
Ah no deaths, maybe next time. I like the mountain disaster videos with freezing and falling 🙃
S-s-subscribe to find out if I die in the next one?
@@SimonHoke good luck up there
@@SimonHoke but how will we kno if you do? 🤔
Ropes are cheating as far as I’m concerned. If you need a rope and an anchor drilled into rock, you shouldn’t be up there anyway.
The music is really distracting, and it adds absolutely nothing. Drop it in future videos and allow your audience to feel like they're actually on the mountain with you.
Hi! I'm sorry the music was too loud for you on this one. I'm hard at work learning audio design, so future videos will be mixed better.
Take some filming classes bro. And editing too, while you are at it.
I'd take more official classes if I was anything more than a weekend warrior, but I've learned tons from other RUclips creators already
@@SimonHoke Wow Simon you've already got haters on your very first video, congrats you made it!!! hahaha great work man, earned a sub from me!
Great documentation and editing. Happy climbing 🎉