SCRAMBLING - WHEN TO USE A ROPE!! (LIVE EXAMPLE)
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- Video shows a real life situation when I had to decide between continuing to solo a route I'd never done before, or getting put on a rope. The decision is not always an easy one and tests your judgement skills in a mountain environment.
Filmed in the Glyderau, Snowdonia National Park
This was exactly what I needed to hear.. thank you Charlie
What a brilliant piece !!! As someone just breaking into climbing/scrambling this is a godsend !!!! It's all well and good pushing yourself ....but.....A good lesson in not biting off more than you chew I think....thank you dude ! 🙏
Glad it was some use 👍
I've seen too many people push themselves just that extra metre before realising they should have gone for a rope a metre ago. Great video and a superb example of good decision making.
It's important to have a very clear understanding of your personal limits and apply redundancy when needed. Good on you for making a responsible call. I'd encourage those getting into climbing to hire a guide and learn proper real-world techniques on varied terrain so that they're knowledgeable in safety systems and able to accurately assess their abilities in different circumstances.
Absolutely spot on
The balls on you! Thank you for posting this video, I would never have the courage to put something on the internet but yeah you can see when your knees start shaking so great decision!
A rarity on RUclips. A video emphasizing skill in terms of safety and understanding personal limitations. Great to see a mature personality. YT features way too much content of risky behavior without offering anything about its real life consequences. No parent or loved one will be consoled by “died doing what they loved” or “ just before she fell to her death she was climbing magnificently”.
Many thanks, appreciated.
at 8mins you mentioned very loose.. i climbed dolmen ridge in 2023. I was told by a mountain guide that summer a hugh lump of rock had come off! I was glad i have rope with a few nuts , a section the size of my torso had popped off.
Great points made; either go with a friend who is competent or even better find someone who is qualified ie. An MCI or above. The consequences of a fall are one of the key decision factors as well as your well made points about your ability, quality of the rock plus the weather and how you are feeling that day. Enjoy your scrambling.
Love the Dolmen Ridge. Can also recommend Wrinkled Tower on the West face of Tryfan for more nail-biting exposure!
Great video. Especially the parts when you talk about ego getting in the way and people end up doing something completely crazy out of their comfort zone. The rope enables you multiple repeat climbs if you were to slip and fall. Which you certainly wouldn't get without.
Holy shit my palms are sweating watching this. My biggest fear is reaching that point of no return where you cant climb back down..
Agree with your comments and wisdom in this video. I’ve climbed up to grade 2 but never done a grade 3 solo. I am considering the next step up but will likely gain more Grade 2 experience prior.
Having seen Dolmen ridge videos ie the crux you refer to here, it does look visibly beyond my capability at this stage. And zero margin for error.
The idea of scrambling up something where a person ends up stuck (crag fast), simply isn’t an option for me.
Good video mate and useful to those of us who enjoy hands on situations in the mountains 🤙🏻
I once had to ask for a rope abseil from the inaccessible pinnacle on the cullin ridge as the weather was deteriorating and I felt unsafe down climbing. I nearly didn’t have the guts to ask. Glad I did
Most people do abseil down. Didn't think climbing down was really a choice.
Very good video. I can recall two occasions from my early days of climbing I soloed something I hadn't done before and came within a hair's breadth catastrophe.
Thank you for sharing your experience mate. Your advice is very valuable. Safe adventures.
Great film. Too much bravado on the scrambles, and this is a good message. Maybe even rope up a few mins earlier 😂
Had me harness on 🤷🏻♂️😜
@@charlie.carter.outdoors yup...it's all good 👍
Great video, beautiful shots and a good experience to share.
To my inexpert eye, the top bit once you're roped up looks more like 5th class climbing to me rather than 3rd/4th class scrambling. For myself, once the fall potential gets serious enough, my partners and I transition to either simul climbing on ropes with protection placed in between us, or start to pitch it out with a belay if the climbing gets intense enough.
Love the video!
Thanks!....lot's of people solo this route, I just didn't feel comfortable doing so on my first time.
I have never done any sort of climbing whatever and never want to. Maybe because of that I enjoy watching climbing videos as they give me a vicarious experience that I will never have for real. This must be the best climbing video I have seen because it confronted the reality that it isn't always an easy option to just get on with it, which is something that seems a bit implicit in some other videos. I would hate to be int the position shown here, so thank you for showing me what it would be like.
If you like watching climbing videos then why not have a shot at trying it yourself. Watching videos like this might give you the impression that climbing has to be that very involved thing with serious consequences all the time. But top roping at the climbing wall isn't all that dangerous if you are diligent about belaying properly. Sure, it can also be scary at first if you aren't used to it but it allows you to get accustomed to the feeling of being on the wall and trusting the gear. I don't know where you live but if there is the possibility to take a beginners course at your local climbing center or alpine club then I'd encourage you to just sign up.
@@Baum17 Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. Unfortunately, I think I am too old to be starting something like climbing now. My general fitness is ok but I have problems with my knees and back. We have got climbing centres near where I live and they look great and they do provide brilliant introductions and instruction. My daughter has been to a couple of them and had a great time as well as learning some of the principles of climbing. Thanks for your response but I think I'll have to stick to the videos. I've got so much respect for people like you and the other climbers out there.
Excellent message. Thanks for sharing.
Good decision, this was my first grade 3 unroped and that crux is serious. Better buzz unroped mind
Great footage, I enjoyed watching that! It definitely gets steep at the top, esp if you stay to the left. I've done it a few times but always stepped to the right before it got too steep but even then it's still at the limit of what I'll do. Good camera angles, you really showed how steep that upper bit is. :-).
You know it's strange, I was out climbing much harder routes today (trad climbing) but it's the psychology of places like the crux on Dolmen, the climbing isn't hard, It's a head game with literally no room for error.
i mean if the rope is in the backpack might as well use it. That's one of the worst ways to die on a rock route, with a rope on your back that you didn't use. I mean if i was doing anything this technical I'd bring a light 50m single rope and a single rack and call it a day. looks like 4th/5th class at times. But if you're after speed simul climbing is also an option
I felt your realisation on this👍
Thanks for sharing the video and wisdom. Great day out and a good outcome!
Good call - although of course not one a solo scrambler can make.
I wear rock shoes for that section of Dolmen Ridge, change footwear at the end of the ramp.
It feels a lot easier as you can use you feet much more securely and so don't feel the need to pull on those blocks which are - as you say - are hollow AF
Indeed, for solo scrambling a rope is only good to ab off. My first time on this route, the climbing isn't difficult, it's just the psychology for me personally. No room for error.
I did dolmen last year. I am a tragically bad climber. I used ropes the whole day. My friend and i took 6 hours to climb it! We absolutely loved it though.
Very informative dude. Thanks very much. Would love a crack at dolman ridge at some poing when im more confident.
There are plenty of grade 1 scrambles where ropes would be a sensible precaution in places. Above that going without ropes is like riding a motorbike without a crash helment - or worse.
Got to take your time and not rush routes, If in doubt rope up. Even on your own you could use an old climbing nut, big chunky one and ab off if you get Craig fast. Means carrying weight but its a fail safe option. I've been Craig fast and had to climb out of it . Climbers never want to ring that helicopter, I climbed the Ben at night to do tower ridge in the morning, went off the path and ended up in that gully at right hand side of the path. Made it to the lake using the moon as my touch compass. Never been as happy to see flat ground camped near the path and got woke up at 6 with walkers. Did the tower and the arret to the other hill across but that gully at night nearly got me.
Thanks for sharing. I'm always on a rope. 🐣😆
Top Rope until you're comfortable on 5.10, then go Alpine Rock Scrambling.
So roping up on Fourth Class terrain is good for safety?
Good observation.
where you wearing a harness?
Was that Dolmen ridge? I’m accustomed to grade 1 and 2’s but it looks a little severe for me at this point. As you correctly point out, it’s too easy and risky to climb into a situation where escape is no option. And zero margin for error.
Thanks for sharing
Recently subscribed - good vids! What is the name (exact location) of the route please? I fancy doing it at some stage... Cheers!
Thanks 👍 This is Dolmen Ridge on Glyder Fach.
Dont't forget: It's easier to climb up, than to climb down.
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must weigh your packs down a lot carrying those ropes and trad gear! Do you bring all the equipment with you everytime just incase?
It's not all that much weight, but no, only bring a rope and some gear if the route has some tricky sections.
I was looking at taking my boys up this (we all climb) and using a rope, can it be done with a 30m rope and lowered back down for the next climber ? I do have a 60m but would rather not lug it all that way if not needed? Thanks for any advice.
Yeah a 30 would be plenty.
Do you recommend that a beginner scrambler wanting to move into grade 2s and 3s should spend time doing indoor bouldering to get better at climbing and will this benefit scrambling?
Any indoor climbing will help with you're confidence.
Having scrabbled and soloed for year's.... Summer Severe & winter V. 5, I'd say for what it's worth the best way definitely is out on real rock on a consistent basis... much better than a climbing wall though that won't do any harm if you can't get out on the mountains.
I’m a fairly experienced climber scrambler. Took my better half on a grade 1 last year, which she had a really hard time on as she didn’t feel confident in her movement abilities. Since then we’ve been going to the climbing wall for a few months, and done a couple of days outdoor sport climbing. Went out to do a grade 1/2 scramble last weekend and the difference is night and day, so yes learning some climbing movement will be very beneficial
Sensible advice
Rope wouldn't be an option on this if you didn't have someone already at the top right? I don't see how you could rope solo this unless you chucked the rope up and hope it jammed around a rock or already had it wrapped around something at the top before hand?
Correct.
You could still pack a rope if you were on your own. That way, if you get into any difficulties, at least you have a way to secure yourself and potentially abseil off back to safety
@@garethedwards5159 How? how put you place gear and get it back without someone following etc?
@@DomClimbs Hi Dom. So, imagine you're on your own, and you become 'cragfast', basically stuck, unable to down climb, and unable to climb up. This could happen due to fear, or maybe it starts raining. If you had a rope and some climbing gear with you, at a minimum you could secure yourself to the rock and wait for rescue. You could also potentially set up an anchor, and abseil back down to safety. This would mean leaving some climbing gear behind (the gear used to build the anchor). Once you're down, you just pull the rope through and back down to you.
But basically abseiling back down to safety and leaving gear behind is a way better option than waiting for a rescue or help. It's a balancing act really, you obviously don't want to be carrying too much weight needlessly. Personally myself, I never take a rope or anything on Grade 1 terrain. On grade 2 and 3 terrain if I'm on my own, I'll usually pack a thin shortish length of rope (20-30m), and a very limited amount of climbing gear, just in case I get into trouble and need to get back down safely.
How would you solo this without a partner? Is there a technique to do this with a rope (but no partner)?
You can't, a rope would only be useful to abseil off if you got in trouble.
Rope soloing is a thing in rock-climbing, not sure you could do it here though, but im no expert
I think at that point you would be needing trad gear to lead solo? Wonder if that would be possible on this route?
You can look up a technique called ‘lead rope solo.’ It’s a bit complicated until you get the hang of it. Alternatively, you could do it more quickly by daisy soloing. Both techniques would be considered advanced and risky.
this is a staged. Most people dont have friends above to drop a rope. The real issue is your climbing and there is no one above you or help you out. You were NOT any place where a person should have been who was tot a true climber.
A "true" climber 🤣
i would not do this climb with or without a rope to me mountain climbing is about fitness not about proving anything
It's hard to say, not being there myself, but this is a really good example of borderline!
I'm inclined to say, based on the video, that I a rope would only make this harder, but.. the look of the holds could be deceiving.
It's definitely better to be like you and be cautious, than to do what some of us (including myself) do and go significantly past the borderline before actually thinking about rope
This is not scrambling mate..find a rock climbing partner before you get into trouble.
Thanks, will do.
We don’t get nearly enough reinforcement of this concept. Most videos are just “rah rah let’s go!”
Good on ya for posting it. Great example of intelligent decision making. Happy climbs!
Man, there were some moves you made that looked horrifying for me. Holy shit.😮
Nice video, & so good to see you pushing the safety side of scrambling. too many people see the Insta shots & want to have a go without realising what they're getting in to. Having a rope & equipment, & knowing how to use them is so important!
Thanks, I'm kinda guiltily of making it looking exciting in my own videos but safety always comes first and I have no hesitation saying no to things where I'll be out of my depth 👍
Dolmen Ridge is on my doorstep, and all being well, I'm hoping to try it on my own this summer. So glad to have seen this video; I'll be taking some gear and a rope. Safety first! Thanks for posting.
Unfortunately, your video doesn’t really answer the question posed in the title, and doesn’t show good practice of the use of a rope for scrambling. I think you’ve still have a lot to learn about advanced scrambling.
Video was made a long time ago. Besides, the title of the video isn't scrambling rope techniques so the paragraph you wrote literally makes no sense.
It's literally a video of a time he felt he needed a rope, how does it not match the title? Also, what is wrong with the rope work? A guide hitched into an anchor belaying off a munter is pretty standard stuff for scrambling.
I can sort of see climbing up, but going down, wow.
This is dolmen ridge and it leads up to the top of glyder fach which has many easy walks down
So roping up on Fourth Class terrain is good for safety?
Good observation.
Plenty of people scramble this and it's graded a scramble so....what's your point?
@@charlie.carter.outdoors none really, just posting a comment to the algorithm gods.