Hey Scotty, excellent video! I love running and repairing chainsaws as well. Especially older vintage saws although I do have a some more modern saws too. I'll be checking out a bunch more of your content and I just subbed your channel!! Keep up the good work young fella!
@@TheGreasyShopRag I Work at a Stihl Dealer I See and Inherited a Lot of Really Cool Vintage Saws and TS-350’s 400’s and a New TS-420 That Was Ran on Strait Gas Had 10 Min Run Time I Rebuilt The Top End And It’s Still a Brand New Saw 😀😊 I Also Have an Old Top Handle O8S and Top Handle S10 all Runners 😀
I got one in 1992 it has run like a champ 2 air cleaners a oiler worm and line . fuel and oil caps 1 spark plug screen for the exhaust . in 2017 I got a New MS270 my 026 cut 20 cord a season for 8 years and 5 cord for 17 more seasons , the 026 in my trimming saw . the ms270 is the cutting saw . the 026 never had a carb kit 31 years old .
Once I got the carb back to spec the saw ran fine and didn't show any signs of an air leak. While a bog and an air leak go hand in hand, this time it was just carb issues.
Just so you know you don't need to pull the handle apart to take the carb off just hold the throttle open and drop the leaver out you will see a cut out in the lever
@@TheGreasyShopRag cant it be caused by fuel tank breather? because the cap get impossible to remove but when i get it off it doesnt change anything in rpms.
@@lauris4887 Yes, the breather is a possibility. So is the fuel filter not hanging in the fuel, a hole in the fuel line, a bubble of water in the carb, a loose ground wire that shorts when the saw is rotated, and of course gremlins. Its hard to give an answer for problems I didn't experience. I'm not bustin your balls, I'm just saying that you stated the rpms changed and it died. Did they go up or just go down till it died? Was it a fast or slow transition? I don't expect an answer to these questions, I'm just pointing out that there are a lot of variables and you need to check everything until you find whats wrong. If you suspect the tank vent then you need a vacuum pump to test the tank, or remove the vent and see if the problem persists.
Yes a pro saw is worth repairing but we only use original equipment parts so this saw could cost $300 + labor and then you still need to find out why it scored in the first place.
That's the point of pro saw, labor cost for repair is many times lower than with consumer saws. That cylinder can be changed less than 1 hour. If that saw is at home use then i don't see any point to use OEM cylinder. I would put some cheap cylinder and piston. Usually it's piston fault when cylinder is scored. They wear out before cylinder and starts rocking resulting scored cylinder. Pistons wear inspection should be done with thoes pro saws, it not big job to change piston on thoes. Cylinder can live over about 2 pistons, sometimes even more.
@@loodusefilm7881 I'm not saying your methods are wrong but we won't use cheap aftermarket cylinders for any application so repair costs are gonna be more than half the replacement value for a scored cylinder. If I was servicing saws for loggers then I would see more worn pistons but my customer base has a lot of homeowners. They don't wear out pistons. When I see problems its because of an air leak, old fuel that makes the rings stick, or over revving/heating due to dull chain.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I also get your point of it. All it comes to same place, homeowners shouldn't buy pro saws they just waste money with it. Pro saws are for heavy use then they pay off it's high price.
I assume you're talking about the tank vent. Those that say the vent is a good place to start have overlooked some key facts. In the video you can see me remove the tank cap. Any vaccuum in the tank has now equalized. Later when I tip the saw you can see it has half a tank of fuel. Theres no way that little carb (or any chainsaw carb) has pulled enough fuel in those few seconds of run time to create a vaccuum in half a tank of fuel. No, I never considered the vent to be an issue. Now if the run time was 30 seconds to a minute or more then came a bog, I would agree. Thanks for watching and commenting!
A lot of equipment has limiter caps on those screws so joe public can't fiddle too far out of range. They do need to be adjustable to compensate for temperature or elevation changes. The problem is most homeowners don't know how to make those adjustments. The newer pro saws from Husky and Stihl use a computer chip to make those adjustments and don't provide any screws to play with, not even idle speed.
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The 026 is my saw. It did the same, bogged. I found turning the high/low needles in and back to to factory, one turn out, got it running fine.
Good job with the carb adjust!
Same thing. Just had to play with the carb adjustments. Thanks for your comment. Got my saw running tip top
Which way do you turn to reset back to factory?
Hey Scotty, excellent video! I love running and repairing chainsaws as well. Especially older vintage saws although I do have a some more modern saws too. I'll be checking out a bunch more of your content and I just subbed your channel!! Keep up the good work young fella!
Thanks for watching!
Those are Awesome Vintage Saws 😮😀😊👍🏼
Theres a Stihl dealer on the other side of town so I don't get to see many newer ones.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I Work at a Stihl Dealer I See and Inherited a Lot of Really Cool Vintage Saws and TS-350’s 400’s and a New TS-420 That Was Ran on Strait Gas Had 10 Min Run Time I Rebuilt The Top End And It’s Still a Brand New Saw 😀😊 I Also Have an Old Top Handle O8S and Top Handle S10 all Runners 😀
@@chrischiampo7647 nice collection!
I got one in 1992 it has run like a champ 2 air cleaners a oiler worm and line . fuel and oil caps 1 spark plug screen for the exhaust . in 2017 I got a New MS270 my 026 cut 20 cord a season for 8 years and 5 cord for 17 more seasons , the 026 in my trimming saw . the ms270 is the cutting saw . the 026 never had a carb kit 31 years old .
First thing I look at is the Exhaust screen , Start and bog sign the spark arrest is Clogged . at 23 seconds in .
Great video, do you have one on carb adjustment? I have an 026 that is a bear to start when it has been sitting. Thanks
I don't think I've made such a video but will if one lands on my bench. Thanks for watching!
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thank you!
On the off and on stitch, dose the black wire goo to kill the motor off?
Yes. it grounds the terminal on the coil.
Oz konar, Hawaii may need your help with, before insurance kicks in... Collateral
no vac pressure test?
Once I got the carb back to spec the saw ran fine and didn't show any signs of an air leak. While a bog and an air leak go hand in hand, this time it was just carb issues.
I have an old 024 and it is a pleasure to work on compared to my NEW Husqvarna130. In fact I havent worked out how to remove the carb on the Husky...
Pretty easy. If I remember right there are two nuts and two screws that come out of the air box. Just rip into it and take pics along the way!
Just so you know you don't need to pull the handle apart to take the carb off just hold the throttle open and drop the leaver out you will see a cut out in the lever
No cut-out in this model. The throttle rod pushes into the hole in the lever. Look close at frames 4:37 and 8:34.
You could benefit from a carb stand and a precision power screw driver
Lol, yep. I've got a lot of older footage that may look like this. Thanks for watching!
Im here for the music
Why does my chainsaw changes its own rpm and dies when flipped?
One common possibility is that there is a bad crank seal.
@@TheGreasyShopRag how do i test them?
@@lauris4887 The procedure is called "pressure/vacuum testing". Its a bit involved and requires a special pump.
@@TheGreasyShopRag cant it be caused by fuel tank breather? because the cap get impossible to remove but when i get it off it doesnt change anything in rpms.
@@lauris4887 Yes, the breather is a possibility. So is the fuel filter not hanging in the fuel, a hole in the fuel line, a bubble of water in the carb, a loose ground wire that shorts when the saw is rotated, and of course gremlins. Its hard to give an answer for problems I didn't experience. I'm not bustin your balls, I'm just saying that you stated the rpms changed and it died. Did they go up or just go down till it died? Was it a fast or slow transition? I don't expect an answer to these questions, I'm just pointing out that there are a lot of variables and you need to check everything until you find whats wrong. If you suspect the tank vent then you need a vacuum pump to test the tank, or remove the vent and see if the problem persists.
Well done Scott!- looks like maybe the customer or someone was playing with the jet settings aswell??
Any time the jets are adjustable with just a flat blade screwdriver theres a good chance someone fiddled with it.
TBH it did look to me initially as being over lean on the L jet...
It's pro chainsaw, if cylinder is bad then it's 100% sure worth to put a new cylinder.
Yes a pro saw is worth repairing but we only use original equipment parts so this saw could cost $300 + labor and then you still need to find out why it scored in the first place.
That's the point of pro saw, labor cost for repair is many times lower than with consumer saws. That cylinder can be changed less than 1 hour. If that saw is at home use then i don't see any point to use OEM cylinder. I would put some cheap cylinder and piston. Usually it's piston fault when cylinder is scored. They wear out before cylinder and starts rocking resulting scored cylinder. Pistons wear inspection should be done with thoes pro saws, it not big job to change piston on thoes. Cylinder can live over about 2 pistons, sometimes even more.
@@loodusefilm7881 I'm not saying your methods are wrong but we won't use cheap aftermarket cylinders for any application so repair costs are gonna be more than half the replacement value for a scored cylinder. If I was servicing saws for loggers then I would see more worn pistons but my customer base has a lot of homeowners. They don't wear out pistons. When I see problems its because of an air leak, old fuel that makes the rings stick, or over revving/heating due to dull chain.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I also get your point of it. All it comes to same place, homeowners shouldn't buy pro saws they just waste money with it. Pro saws are for heavy use then they pay off it's high price.
@Looduse you freakn winker
I just got 2 rebuilt new carb in Texas got them to Hawaii and runs like shit
Are you thinking the carb is the problem or something else?
Greasy rag, some say the tank pressure filter is good place to start too...
I assume you're talking about the tank vent. Those that say the vent is a good place to start have overlooked some key facts. In the video you can see me remove the tank cap. Any vaccuum in the tank has now equalized. Later when I tip the saw you can see it has half a tank of fuel. Theres no way that little carb (or any chainsaw carb) has pulled enough fuel in those few seconds of run time to create a vaccuum in half a tank of fuel. No, I never considered the vent to be an issue. Now if the run time was 30 seconds to a minute or more then came a bog, I would agree. Thanks for watching and commenting!
They should make the adjustment screws inaccessible to Joe public, or at least make it difficult
A lot of equipment has limiter caps on those screws so joe public can't fiddle too far out of range. They do need to be adjustable to compensate for temperature or elevation changes. The problem is most homeowners don't know how to make those adjustments. The newer pro saws from Husky and Stihl use a computer chip to make those adjustments and don't provide any screws to play with, not even idle speed.