I was having low power from my saw as I tried to figure out what was wrong. My saw is the same model as this one. I spent the day cleaning the carburetor and not cutting wood. I saw your video and checked the screen on the exhaust and found it to be plugged just like the one you showed in video. At first soap and water, that didn't work, tried alcohol, didn't work. I used Lucus injector cleaner, it worked well. Thanks for sharing the tip, it saved downtime and didn't need to take it in for repair at shop.
Of all the videos I have watched on chainsaw tuneups not a single one of them has mentioned this filter on the exhaust. Thank you for getting this information out there.
Instant results on my Stihl MS 180! I had changed the fuel filter, air filter, mixed fresh fuel, installed a new spark plug and then stripped and cleaned the carb but to no avail. Checked the spark arrestor screen after watching your video and found it to be plugged solid, just as in your video. Cleaned up the screen with some carb cleaner and now the saw runs like a charm. Certainly appreciate you sharing this tip for trouble shooting. Cheers.
Great advice on something I never thought to check. I have a similar model mine is the MS 250 and it is starting to bog a little occasionally so I'm going to check to see if mine has this screen as well. Thank you
My MS170 was only two years old and started bogging down at higher speed settings. Didn't think your fix would apply to such a new saw but it was the solution! Thanks for the great video!
Straight to the point! Well done, no music you didn't introduce us to your dog or your kids, though I am sure they are great but I just wanted to know how to tune my saw up and that's exactly what I got.
Thank you ! I'm a handyman guy and occasionally I've done some backyard mechanic stuff for over a half century. I've worked on all kinds of motors, but never had I come across a motor that uses some little screen over the exhaust. I had looked all over the internet to try to figure out why my small chainsaw was bogging down. Who would think there would be a little screen completely clogged with carbon. I cleaned it off and it's running great now, especially because I put a new spark plug in it. It's just a little Stihl ms150c that I use for cutting branches. Using my larger Stihl for that wears me out. Thanks again.
It’s also good to keep in mind never to run the saw too long or at all without that bar and chain on and tensioned properly. Not only could you over heat and over rev the engine but it can cause very expensive irreparable damage in the long run. Cheers!!
Speaking of the bar - flip the bar over everytime the chain gets removed. Helps keep the wearing of it distributed to both sides. When re-attaching the bar, put a slight upward pressure on the bottom of the tip of the bar while tightening the it.
What ‘very expensive irreparable damage’ would it cause? Why do you think the engine would overheat? You also can’t over rev the engine, short of just holding it wide open for a long time. Chainsaws are designed to rev, and newer ones all have limiters in the ignition. It’s a 2 stroke engine, not 4 stroke.
Hey good job on finding the problem! Carb, ignition, and plugged fire screen all yield the same issues with these engines. I'm a mechanic on saws as well and carb or plugged fire screens are the most common problem. And the plugged fire screen is normally caused from the customer not running the saw full throttle, or like you mentioned running to much pre-mix. Have fun!
Gonna check my exhaust next. Rebuilt a Walbro carb on a $5 yardsale Mac 3200 today. Got it started (amd smiled) and seems to run real well (till ya try to start cutting wood). Bogs bad. Step 2... Learn proper jet settings. Step 3... Maybe go back and adjust the needle valve lever thingy properly. I think it may be a little off still. Walbro 247 = .65 - .70. But first... exhaust. Finger crosses and the wood is ready.
This is fantastic advice! I have the same model chainsaw and after I cleaned the screen and the deflector, it ran like a charm. Thank you for this valuable knowledge.
Over revving a cold saw especially without a bar and chain installed can cause a "cold seizure"as the piston will expand faster at the exhaust port.Always allow the saw to warm up first.
Nice,got them work immediately. I have Stihl 170 and 290, both of them had no power and hard to keep them running idle. I opened the front screens , both of them clogged. I did not have new screens and they are hard to clean, so I just got rid of them, when I get new, I put them on.
Great video - Thanks for your help. I have a Makita DCS520 that kept bogging. Was skeptical at first as I am in New Zealand and didn't think I would have the screen. Sure enough it was clogged up. Pulled it out fired it up and ran like a dream. Very thankful for everyone taking the time to post videos like yours to help others.
My Stihl MS 290 started bogging down when giving it gas & with no load (not cutting). I tried all the basic stuff,.. fuel, carb setting, air filter, spark plug,... nothing. I pulled the muffler filter and it was basically 100% clogged. I cleaned with carb cleaner and a wire brush, put it back in.... & the saw runs like it was new. I would have never thought of this simple fix if I did not watch this video. Thanks!
Great advice. My Stihl MS193T chainsaw would run great at idle, but bog down when trying to rev. I cleaned the screen on the exhaust and the problem is fixed! Thank You!
Good information.... also remember to check the fuel line in the gas tank. If regular gas is used, then it might have ethanol and that breaks down the rubber in the gas line over time.(94 contains no ethanol.)Then at high demand, full throttle, the line can collapse inside the tank and the saw bogs. Easy fix by simply replacing the line with new one. (I had to wait to have my new gas line delivered so in the meantime I used a steel spring from a pen as a stent in the line and it worked perfectly.) Stihl is a great little saw.
It's a "spark arrestor". I cut logs for 22 years and they tend to clog up on you. It was something that you can do without. The reason we had it was because the worker's insurance demanded we have it . They would check it randomly . But if you take care not to cut wood with the muffler too close , you can just take it off. It is meant to prevent sparks from the muffler to which to this day I have never seen happen.
I thought the spark arrestor was to prevent forest fires, not to appeal to some arbitrary insurance issue. There's a reason the insurer wants it there, for liability. Just because one person never started a forest fire, doesn't mean it can't happen.
Your tips headed me in the right direction for a bad bog problem. Had some gas in the saw that was ??? despite having a date on it with stabil fuel additive in it. Replaced the fuel with fresh fuel and it eliminated the bog completely.
Thank you... Just went through the carb, New cleaner, spark plug.. Still holding an idle, but bogging and both low/high adjustments doing nothing. Never would've thought to check the exhaust, she's happy now.
Great Video. Since its Spring, I went to check on my chainsaws. 2 out of 3 are having trouble staying running. Fresh gas and oil mix. Fresh spark plugs. Now, thanks to this video, I'll be looking at that mesh screen. And periodically clean it after x amount of uses.
Thank you !!!! This video did the trick for my Husqvarna 51L. Took off the muffler, cleaned it and the screen and it runs like a champ! Thank you again!
Thank you very much! Was cutting with my husky and it didn't want to cut it was bogging. Did everything even considered buying tool to adjust L and H settings. Then I found your video and first thing I did was took this wire mesh off and cleaned it. Now its going like a beast and no problems.. Very helpful! Thank you. You get a like from me :)
Great tip! I was ready to junk mine over this little issue. Went over everything and couldn't find the problem until I watched this video. Thanks for the help! Runs great again.
Great video on the importance of checking the spark arrestor screen. An often overlooked piece on a chainsaw by many. It was nails on a chalkboard for me to hear you peg and even briefly hold that throttle just after starting. If this becomes a users habit it will lead to cold seizure scoring of your piston & cylinder. Newbies & construction guys (infrequent users that just wanna get to cutting once started) are notorious for cold seize scoring a chainsaw. Let your chainsaw warm up before pegging that throttle, ladies & gentlemen. It will keep its power we & last much longer if you do. That holds true for any motorized device including your vehicle.
Wow! Wide open throttle on the initial start???? Obviously you forgot that it's air-cooled and the only lubrication for that tny piston comes from the fuel mix. Brilliant!
You did an excellent trouble shoot from A to Z or really from A to X. You still have to put the bar and chain on and cut a moderate sized piece of wood to be certain of high speed mixture. I bought a barely used bigger brother to that saw, the ms250, and it's a beautiful thing to run.
+Foxboss9 I have to ask you what gunked up that arrester screen like that? I run echo 2 stroke oil by the gallon and I really never clean a screen at all. heck it looked like someone was old school running a 16 to one mixture?
+Burt Hulbert could be.. Even ISO LEG-D stuff like Echo oil will clog up if it sits in the tank for a year to a year and a half.. The gas may evaporate but the oil remains.. Just Normal customer abuse..
@@burtvhulberthyhbn7583It shouldn't gunk up if it's regularly run at full throttle. If it spends a lot of time idling or just sits with gas in the tank, then you'll start having issues.
I needed this video about 4 years ago.. lol.. I bought a Remington back in 2013 used it for wood cutting, then skipped a year, using just my electric heat.. 2015, I got the Remington out and it wouldn't start very well, finally got it to start then by holding the choke open a little it would idle but if I tried to throttle it. It would die. I just went out and bought a Kobalt 80volt electric. No more gas/oil mix or yanking on ropes.. Anyway good video.. BTW, I sold that other saw for $1.. The guy later said that he couldn't get it to run either.. If I see him, I'll pass this info on to him to check this.. or I might try to buy it back for 50 cents.. lol (he was my cousin or it wouldn't have been $1)
Just typed in stihl chainsaw loosing power and this came up. Funny enough I have the exact same saw. Watched the video and that was my problem. 10 min later I'm up and running again so thank you.
My ms170 was bogging down. I was afraid it was a carb or compression problem. Searched the RUclips and watched this video to diagnose. Turns out the spark arrester was filthy. I didnt even know chainsaws had spark arrestors until I watched this video. Cleaned it and it runs like a top now. Thanks!
I run a bunch of Stihl power tools daily in a commercial setting. We always take the spark arresters out. The eventually clog up irrespective of a correct mix or not. We absolutely mix the correct ratio. My guess is, they only put those on for liability reasons. Maybe so Stihl dealers can make minimum 30min- one-hour labour charges and diagnosis fees for a two minute job, for something very obvious to those who know.
I had similar problem with my leaf blower (also a Stihl in my case). It started but ran roughly and had low power. Such an easy thing to check and fix - it simply unscrews. Cleaned by soaking in gas and gentle fine wire brush. Now a part of my annual clean/maintenance.
Not to be critical but u should let it warm up a bit b4 u run it wide open like that. Give that piston bore a chance to expand a bit. Outher than that thanks for the vid.
I have a decent 044 and it started bogging down after cutting a few cords of wood. Took it into a local saw shop. He said he was going to. Retune the carb real fast. He used an allen wrench. First off its a flat head screw on the carb. He said i needed a new carb. Would cost me $100. Went home and retuned the carb right. Runs great.
I had another cause of bogging out that I’ve fixed. I accidently used chain oil in the fuel instead of T2 engine oil. The engine run at idle but bogged out at high revs. When I put the right fuel in it was OK. I went through all of the cleaning and adjusting processes it was only when I tried a new mix of fuel that I realised the fuel in the tank was yellow, the only T2 oil that I have is pink but both bottles are black and look the same. All the best . . . Andy
I guess I just fixed mine by removing the muffler and cleaning the screen. I had tried the low/high speed adjustment and only when I did this did it start to work. Thanks.
contacted stihl about the arrestor screen for a Stihl 171 and had a reply back The MS 171 supplied in the UK does not have an arrester screen as they were only available in the product version MS171-Z which were supplied in Australia, USA and Canada.
Foxboss9 is right about fuel. Not only should it be keept fresh, but at the right ratio. I had problems with my 42cc Poulan saw bogging after running wide open for 20-30 sec. I fashioned a tool to adjust the carb (I'm pretty expert at tuning). It ran much stronger, but still bogged after running wide open for 20-30 sec. I made a batch of fresh fuel at 35:1, though the engine calls for 40:1. That did the trick. It now smokes a bit (no smoke is not healthy), runs super strong, and never bogs. Man, that saw cuts like it's angry now. When you have 3 or 4 2 stroke tools calling for 30:1 through 50:1, you have to be careful. Label your fuel cans!
Great video. Have the same saw it bogs down when I full throttle sometimes. If you do another it would be nice to see and hear how it fails before fixing.
I just bought an 87 homelite for $2 from the junk yard. Shot some carb cleaner though the intake and it fired 2nd pull. New carb rebuild, new magneto, new spark plug, half the bolts were loose, and it was just buried literally to the handle in the mud in a scrap pile. My guess is they had issues with it not running under WOT, tore it all apart and changed everything, then just gave up when they couldnt figure it out. Their loss, my gain. I got a practically free bright neon orange saw😂
Thank you for the info. I’m having an issue with a new saw. Starts fine. Used it for 30 minutes, shut it off to refuel, restarted fine. But now it won’t take any throttle at all. I’m assuming it is a carb adjustment issue and I’ll have to either attempt adjusting the saw, or take it back to the seller for adjustment?
Stihl MS170 and 180's are notorious for this problem. The carbs are non-adjustable and often run a little too rich. This results in blocking of the spark arrestor with the oil in the exhaust. I remove my arrestor and only reinstall it for summer use, when fire is a worry.
Posting this around because I couldn't find anybody else online talking about it: After having a world of trouble with my Stihl MS-250 not starting, I decided to check the coil. It had spark, but I guess it wasn't strong enough to fire the plug. Forums have people that tell you to replace the coil in a case such as this, but a few say the coil seldom goes bad in a Stihl. My saw is not that old. Even so, I decided to pull the coil and replace it with one out of another older ms-250 I have. Then I noticed the gap between the old saw's coil and flywheel. It was not the same as the one on the problem saw. The non-starting unit had a wider gap. I got back online and found the correct gap setting should be 25 thousandth (can use a business card to set the gap). I decided to only remove the coil and clean it up, then reset the gap. I put everything back together and used a business card to set the gap. Then pulled the spark plug and made sure it was gaped at 25 thousandths too. The saw fired up and runs like new! It's hard to understand how that gap changed. It was never torn down till now, and it used to run very well for the longest time. Maybe buildup from the dust and oil lodged between the two components and caused it? But the torque screws holding it in place were very tight, and I can't see any reason for the coil to have slipped. But now happy... got my toy to working again.
mine would start cold no problem but if it would if it ran for a minute it wouldn't start for a couple hours was the coil. how does Chinese one minute so I spent nine bucks & stuck another one in it again
I read thru all replies and got my answer about mix ratio. 40:1.....husky are 50:1.... I have one of each so I'm going do write it on saw so I don't forget. While the husky is bigger engine, the stihl is lighter weight. I'm liking the stihl better. Arms not as tired after cutting all day! Cuts like butter with sharp chain.
When I was a teen my dad had a monster Lombard Comango which we would cut cords and cords of wood every year in Maine with, he never ever got a chance to show me how to tune it, just sharpen it!
the spark arrestor screen can clog from user error as well, not always too rich. users at work have been able to clog screens, usually only after 2-3 seasons. the fuel they run is ethanol free, stihl ultra 50:1. once you run an engine with plugged screen you never forget the characteristics. probably not the best idea to free rev that cold engine at initial start up.
Depends on saw, exhaust screen, spark plug, good clean fuel, air filter clean, been sitting carb cleaning, inspection. Runs bit funky carb possibly, then adjusting like here...
Over time that screen (spark arrestor) can rust apart and pieces could find their way into the cylinder. I blew a saw that way a few years ago. Chuck it. Thumbs up for the vid.
@Foxboss9 thankyou very much ! You just saved me a lot of money and 2 days sending my chainsaw to a service company. I guess you do learn something new everyday! Thankyou again.
If you only use chainsaw once in a while; only use ready mix gas and oil sold at Canadian Tire or at your local chainsaw dealer. It has high octane and has a shelf life of 2 years, no more problems with your chainsaw gumming up after that.
In Ontario Canada, Premium fuel at Shell Stations does not contain Ethanol. Best choice for 2 strokes and show cars that are not used in Winter. Excellent video.
When I'm done using my saw and I'm not going to use it for a while I always pour out the fuel and run it til it runs out of gas that way when I get ready to use it next time I can put in fresh fuel. Saves a lot of headaches later.
Why I like buying the premix out of the can good for 2 years. How often does a home owner cut wood . Shut off leave it until who knows when . 20.00 Gal it is worth it . Keeps it nice clean. I just picked up 2 Echo CS340 and 440 at a recycle center just need to clean carb out.
If it's not the spark arrestor that's clogged it can either be the fact that the carby needs adjusting or that the carby has an air leak in it. I bought a crappy carby on EBay for a Stihl hedge trimmer that I rebuilt for someone that had air leaking around the 1 way check valve for the main jet,it was a poor fit inside the carby body & the fuel ate away the Loctite & where it previously ran good,the hedge trimmer returned with running problems,I can tell by placing the carby inside a jar of water with the hose attached to the fuel supply & applied air pressure to the hose then found out that air was leaking from around the check valve. I ordered another one for $30 AUD & it ran as good as gold. I had to carefully isolate the problem because the caretaker who used that 2 stroke lawn equipment literally poured 2 stroke oil into the fuel tank without measuring it. That's why a lot of the Stihl leaf blowers I repaired of theirs needed their spark arrestor screens cleaned as that caused them to Lack power. I burned the carbon out of them with a propane torch,normally you shouldn't have to because Stihl recommends a 50:1 fuel to oil mixture which means that the exhaust is virtually smokeless !!!!
Hi Foxboss9, I just replaced the rotted off clunk/fuel line. Thought that would make her run. Nope, runs, but the top end dies out. I run 32:1 gas/oil mix, so your idea of the exhaust screen may be the problem, I will try that next. Gas is two weeks old. I run 2 stroke "Chain saw engines" on my large radio control warbird aircraft, so have a fair amount of experience with these engines. I have run 32:1 to great success, for over 5 years. So, this poulan engine ran great 2 months ago. A couple of weeks ago, I tried it, and blah, hardly ran. Could be a combination of errors such as dirty fuel screen in the carb. Engine is 7 years old and has run great up till now.
lbjlbj1 all stihl products run 50:1 period, youll end up frying the piston and cylinder and it will not take long. first sign is your gonna start loosing compression
curtis kitchens that is what Stihl recommends using their oil... Better mix oil such as Echo's ISO-LEG-D rated oil can be used at a lesser ratio. These guys aren't worried about warranties on their old saws. MFG recommendations are just that. For every saw that has burned up there are 20 doing fine. Just like no load full Rev.. Fuel limitation based on carb design will not allow a well tuned engine to scatter if it's wound up to it's upper limits.. For every one that has come apart there are 70 that don't experience I'll effects. Theoretical operation standards are rarely the actual abilities. I listened to all the Mfg's during all my training over the years and found that they all are teaching what is in the best for the MFG and never, ever what you can get away with. With the exception of Echo's advanced failure analysis class in which they have shown that you can run their cheapest string trimmer on straight gas, at full throttle for over an hour (refill on the fly) and will continue to run. It will be damaged but can be done. Showing that with a very minor amount or oil in the mix it will do the same thing without damage. But obviously they don't recommend it.
Thank you so much for sharing this. I’ve pretty much done everything EXCEPT check the exhaust. I bet anything that’s the problem. Only been an operator for two years so I’m still wet behind the ears when it comes to this tormenting wretch. But I’m going out there now and fix it... thanks to YOUR HELP. Stay warm!!! I know I can now!!!
Seems like you have more ethanol in your gas over there than we do in Norway. I have a Stihl 017 saw that is 12-15 years old now. And it has never missed a beat. Starts every time, even with gas left in it over the winter. But of course now when I have bragged about it I'll bet you I'll have to take it apart the next time I am going to use it. Great vid. by the way.
+Norseman220 We may. But like anything else it depends on a lot of different variables. For example in the SW states like Arizona and New Mexico where it is a very dry climate I would suspect the moisture is non existent in the fuel. So, even though their fuel may have the same amount of Ethanol being used during storage it is less likely for Hygroscopic breakdown playing a part in their non-running issues say than the same saw and fuel being used in Ohio. I know the way fuel is produced and stored is different from one state to another too. I worked for a shop here in Ohio and transferred to another "sister" shop in Florida. I could not believe how different the gas smelled in the machines being worked on down there compared to what I was use to coming from a shop in the Midwest. I think the type of mix oil being used has a lot to do with it too. As I have a Weedeater brand string trimmer that was purchased in 2002 as a factory refurbished return and Like your Stihl, I never have an issue with it. I too leave gas in it in the off season(up to 7 months) and it fires up within a 5-8 pulls when I finally need to use it. But I use mix oil that is ISO LEGD certified. Which is some of the highest quality you can buy. (now I will probably have a problem too lol)) I have some suspicion that this particular saw was using the wrong mix ratio and also cheap 2 stroke oil. Thanks for the comment and sharing..I love hearing from Overseas viewers it makes the world seem a bit smaller😊
I throw those spark arrestor screens in the trash. nothing but trouble have fixed many saws and weed trimmers and leaf blowers with the same problem they run great after doing so. its funny how people think its fuel related a lot of times when its a plugged muffler screen or exhaust ports on a 2 cycle engine
Fantastic insights and a great video, Now my interpretation: gGet rid of the screen, put it in the garbage and reassemble and never worry about that again.
the little holes before the spark arrestor screen is the part where I drilled bigger holes and where the little fins are on the exhaust ,I bent them out a little more, for better flow. And one more good tip is the combustion bowl would be so caked by looking at that screen. Take out the plug and spray that head cleaner or tune up in a can . put the plug back in and dont put the plug wire on it . pull it a couple times slowly and let it sit for awhile 30 min. approx. then take out the plug and spray some starter fluid on the plug Pt. put it back together and start it up and watch all these chunks of old hard carbon fly outta your muffler. Ive done this to so many motors that wont run well. Might have to clean the exhaust again because of all that crap might not make it out with the screen and small holes. Runs like just bought most of the time.
Perfect. Too bad I didn't look under the muffler before trying to adjust the carb. I suspect I was heavy on the oil in the gas. Glad to have my little saw back.
Great tip! I always go a tad heavier on oil. Only because very seldom does the saw idle more than 45 seconds. Other than warm up. It. Its wide open. I'm not a climber. Can understand that. From what I understand they have leaned everything out too. For epa junk. Spark arrestors a good idea. Never a fan of Sthil . Started with Mchulloch only because only descent service guy. 1010,610, and 710. All by age 16. East coast. Prefer Husky or jonsered. Lighter faster. Got a husky 40 brothers I bought my dad decades ago. Dad and one brother gone. Saw still here. 372xp. Saw does the work. Have to be on your toes. .what's your choice and why?
I noticed the carb needs a little adjustment. Mine was running the same way. While engine running, I would take low idle and turn in a 1/4 turn, if run worse, I would now run it out get back the 1/4, and add another 1/4 turn, if this didnt change, then I went to high screw and used the same principle. Now mine is running fine. I did this on both of my saws Stihl 021, and ms250. One more note. I poured the gas out and started with fresh. When I got done running saw, I poured my gas back into my gas can using funnel. I started my chainsaws and ran every drop out of fuel line and remainder of carb. Now it should be good to store till next use. I dont have to worry about diaphragm, etc
I was having low power from my saw as I tried to figure out what was wrong. My saw is the same model as this one. I spent the day cleaning the carburetor and not cutting wood. I saw your video and checked the screen on the exhaust and found it to be plugged just like the one you showed in video. At first soap and water, that didn't work, tried alcohol, didn't work. I used Lucus injector cleaner, it worked well. Thanks for sharing the tip, it saved downtime and didn't need to take it in for repair at shop.
Cole B yu spent the day cleaning a carb.. don't quit yur day job
Next time try to use carb cleaner and it should be OK
How to start a chain saw?
"big ass puss" People like you dont quit their day Or night jobs.. They get fired!
next time it clogs up chuck it in the trash that’s where they belong.
Of all the videos I have watched on chainsaw tuneups not a single one of them has mentioned this filter on the exhaust. Thank you for getting this information out there.
The mesh screen is a "Spark Arrest" preventing sparks from flying out the exhaust in a dry environment ;)
Instant results on my Stihl MS 180! I had changed the fuel filter, air filter, mixed fresh fuel, installed a new spark plug and then stripped and cleaned the carb but to no avail. Checked the spark arrestor screen after watching your video and found it to be plugged solid, just as in your video. Cleaned up the screen with some carb cleaner and now the saw runs like a charm. Certainly appreciate you sharing this tip for trouble shooting. Cheers.
Great advice on something I never thought to check. I have a similar model mine is the MS 250 and it is starting to bog a little occasionally so I'm going to check to see if mine has this screen as well. Thank you
My MS170 was only two years old and started bogging down at higher speed settings. Didn't think your fix would apply to such a new saw but it was the solution! Thanks for the great video!
Straight to the point! Well done, no music you didn't introduce us to your dog or your kids, though I am sure they are great but I just wanted to know how to tune my saw up and that's exactly what I got.
Thank you ! I'm a handyman guy and occasionally I've done some backyard mechanic stuff for over a half century. I've worked on all kinds of motors, but never had I come across a motor that uses some little screen over the exhaust. I had looked all over the internet to try to figure out why my small chainsaw was bogging down. Who would think there would be a little screen completely clogged with carbon. I cleaned it off and it's running great now, especially because I put a new spark plug in it. It's just a little Stihl ms150c that I use for cutting branches. Using my larger Stihl for that wears me out. Thanks again.
Thank You!! My 15 year old son watched your video, and now the chain saw is working great!
That is great!
+Paul L: A 15 year old boy is too young to be handling a chain-saw.
All depends on how he grew up...IMO
Lol did you grow up in a bubble? Or just i Citydiot @@johnd942
It’s also good to keep in mind never to run the saw too long or at all without that bar and chain on and tensioned properly. Not only could you over heat and over rev the engine but it can cause very expensive irreparable damage in the long run. Cheers!!
Speaking of the bar - flip the bar over everytime the chain gets removed. Helps keep the wearing of it distributed to both sides. When re-attaching the bar, put a slight upward pressure on the bottom of the tip of the bar while tightening the it.
What ‘very expensive irreparable damage’ would it cause? Why do you think the engine would overheat? You also can’t over rev the engine, short of just holding it wide open for a long time. Chainsaws are designed to rev, and newer ones all have limiters in the ignition. It’s a 2 stroke engine, not 4 stroke.
Hey good job on finding the problem! Carb, ignition, and plugged fire screen all yield the same issues with these engines. I'm a mechanic on saws as well and carb or plugged fire screens are the most common problem. And the plugged fire screen is normally caused from the customer not running the saw full throttle, or like you mentioned running to much pre-mix. Have fun!
Military Chevy or running CHEAP MIX OIL. run full synthetic it wont plug up
Gonna check my exhaust next. Rebuilt a Walbro carb on a $5 yardsale Mac 3200 today. Got it started (amd smiled) and seems to run real well (till ya try to start cutting wood). Bogs bad.
Step 2... Learn proper jet settings.
Step 3... Maybe go back and adjust the needle valve lever thingy properly. I think it may be a little off still. Walbro 247 = .65 - .70.
But first... exhaust.
Finger crosses and the wood is ready.
This is fantastic advice! I have the same model chainsaw and after I cleaned the screen and the deflector, it ran like a charm. Thank you for this valuable knowledge.
I had crap old fuel. As an amateur I never had realised this could have such a profound effect. New fuel, works a dream, thank you!
Over revving a cold saw especially without a bar and chain installed can cause a "cold seizure"as the piston will expand faster at the exhaust port.Always allow the saw to warm up first.
Nice,got them work immediately. I have Stihl 170 and 290, both of them had no power and hard to keep them running idle. I opened the front screens , both of them clogged. I did not have new screens and they are hard to clean, so I just got rid of them, when I get new, I put them on.
Great video - Thanks for your help. I have a Makita DCS520 that kept bogging. Was skeptical at first as I am in New Zealand and didn't think I would have the screen. Sure enough it was clogged up. Pulled it out fired it up and ran like a dream. Very thankful for everyone taking the time to post videos like yours to help others.
Well explained Basic Maintenance Thank you for sharing The mesh is a spark arrestor for use in high risk Fire areas Dry forestry, Sawmills Etc
My Stihl MS 290 started bogging down when giving it gas & with no load (not cutting). I tried all the basic stuff,.. fuel, carb setting, air filter, spark plug,... nothing. I pulled the muffler filter and it was basically 100% clogged. I cleaned with carb cleaner and a wire brush, put it back in.... & the saw runs like it was new. I would have never thought of this simple fix if I did not watch this video. Thanks!
Great advice. My Stihl MS193T chainsaw would run great at idle, but bog down when trying to rev. I cleaned the screen on the exhaust and the problem is fixed! Thank You!
My teenage years of cleaning my pipe and bong screens have prepared me for this exact task.
+Robert King And there it is..Best comment!!
Robert King LMFAO
So, how much does it help ?
Robert King hahahahaaa!!! IK-R?
like a boss
Thanks for getting and keeping it to the point without wasting time showing me where the dog sleeps.
Good information.... also remember to check the fuel line in the gas tank. If regular gas is used, then it might have ethanol and that breaks down the rubber in the gas line over time.(94 contains no ethanol.)Then at high demand, full throttle, the line can collapse inside the tank and the saw bogs. Easy fix by simply replacing the line with new one. (I had to wait to have my new gas line delivered so in the meantime I used a steel spring from a pen as a stent in the line and it worked perfectly.) Stihl is a great little saw.
Thanks..good points for sure..
If you're spark arrestor is clogged like that, your mix is too oily, and exhaust port needs cleaning 🧐
Brother you saved me $45 and taught me a new skill. Thank you 10 time over.
It's a "spark arrestor". I cut logs for 22 years and they tend to clog up on you. It was something that you can do without. The reason we had it was because the worker's insurance demanded we have it . They would check it randomly . But if you take care not to cut wood with the muffler too close , you can just take it off. It is meant to prevent sparks from the muffler to which to this day I have never seen happen.
Antonio Arellano run full synthetic mix oil it wont plug up. run the cheap stuff it will plug up because it has crude oil in it
i would think if it was throwing sparks it would be a good sigh of the saws engine starting to die.
The sparks are carbon, not metal.
Good info! Thanks for your input. Experience will always win.
I thought the spark arrestor was to prevent forest fires, not to appeal to some arbitrary insurance issue. There's a reason the insurer wants it there, for liability. Just because one person never started a forest fire, doesn't mean it can't happen.
Your tips headed me in the right direction for a bad bog problem. Had some gas in the saw that was ??? despite having a date on it with stabil fuel additive in it. Replaced the fuel with fresh fuel and it eliminated the bog completely.
Dave V Great! 😊👍
Thank you... Just went through the carb, New cleaner, spark plug.. Still holding an idle, but bogging and both low/high adjustments doing nothing. Never would've thought to check the exhaust, she's happy now.
tampabayrider Great News 👍
Nice job. Had same issue. Chased other issues for hours before finding this cause. Thanks for sharing. Well done.
And always full throttle immediately! Especially when it's super cold out !!!
You must be a chainsaw salesman..i was waiting for the saw to cold seizure..always let the saw warm up, before beating on it..lol
sarcasm... tee hee.
Great way of seizing up the piston in the saw !!
Great Video. Since its Spring, I went to check on my chainsaws. 2 out of 3 are having trouble staying running. Fresh gas and oil mix. Fresh spark plugs. Now, thanks to this video, I'll be looking at that mesh screen. And periodically clean it after x amount of uses.
✅😁
Thank you !!!! This video did the trick for my Husqvarna 51L. Took off the muffler, cleaned it and the screen and it runs like a champ! Thank you again!
Thank you very much! Was cutting with my husky and it didn't want to cut it was bogging. Did everything even considered buying tool to adjust L and H settings. Then I found your video and first thing I did was took this wire mesh off and cleaned it. Now its going like a beast and no problems.. Very helpful! Thank you. You get a like from me :)
Cool!
Great tip! I was ready to junk mine over this little issue. Went over everything and couldn't find the problem until I watched this video. Thanks for the help! Runs great again.
Thanks heaps, great video, straight to the point! Clogged screen is now clean and MS170 is going great again.
That was so helpful. Thank you. My local saw repair shop was going to charge me £70 UK. For what took me 20 minutes. Regards M
Great video on the importance of checking the spark arrestor screen. An often overlooked piece on a chainsaw by many. It was nails on a chalkboard for me to hear you peg and even briefly hold that throttle just after starting. If this becomes a users habit it will lead to cold seizure scoring of your piston & cylinder. Newbies & construction guys (infrequent users that just wanna get to cutting once started) are notorious for cold seize scoring a chainsaw. Let your chainsaw warm up before pegging that throttle, ladies & gentlemen. It will keep its power we & last much longer if you do. That holds true for any motorized device including your vehicle.
He did that to a customer's saw.
Unbelievable.
You have to at least do a throttle squeeze on Stihl if it is on the half-choke.
Wow! Wide open throttle on the initial start???? Obviously you forgot that it's air-cooled and the only lubrication for that tny piston comes from the fuel mix. Brilliant!
You did an excellent trouble shoot from A to Z or really from A to X. You still have to put the bar and chain on and cut a moderate sized piece of wood to be certain of high speed mixture. I bought a barely used bigger brother to that saw, the ms250, and it's a beautiful thing to run.
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+Foxboss9 I have to ask you what gunked up that arrester screen like that? I run echo 2 stroke oil by the gallon and I really never clean a screen at all. heck it looked like someone was old school running a 16 to one mixture?
+Burt Hulbert could be.. Even ISO LEG-D stuff like Echo oil will clog up if it sits in the tank for a year to a year and a half.. The gas may evaporate but the oil remains.. Just Normal customer abuse..
@@burtvhulberthyhbn7583It shouldn't gunk up if it's regularly run at full throttle. If it spends a lot of time idling or just sits with gas in the tank, then you'll start having issues.
I love it when the first easiest thing to check is all that is wrong. Just checked mine and it was clogged bad, thanks for the video!!
This is the best and most informative video I've seen in some time! Excellent work!
You're a star, mate! Thanks. Exhaust was the problem. Shared knowledge is what makes the world go round. Thanks again.
great news! thanks for watching😀
I needed this video about 4 years ago.. lol.. I bought a Remington back in 2013 used it for wood cutting, then skipped a year, using just my electric heat.. 2015, I got the Remington out and it wouldn't start very well, finally got it to start then by holding the choke open a little it would idle but if I tried to throttle it. It would die. I just went out and bought a Kobalt 80volt electric. No more gas/oil mix or yanking on ropes.. Anyway good video.. BTW, I sold that other saw for $1.. The guy later said that he couldn't get it to run either.. If I see him, I'll pass this info on to him to check this.. or I might try to buy it back for 50 cents.. lol (he was my cousin or it wouldn't have been $1)
Just typed in stihl chainsaw loosing power and this came up. Funny enough I have the exact same saw. Watched the video and that was my problem. 10 min later I'm up and running again so thank you.
+cartelli50 great news!
Amsoil synthetic two stroke oil at 100/1 mix ratio and high test fuel is your best way to go on these saws ! Never had a screen clog problem!
My ms170 was bogging down. I was afraid it was a carb or compression problem. Searched the RUclips and watched this video to diagnose. Turns out the spark arrester was filthy. I didnt even know chainsaws had spark arrestors until I watched this video. Cleaned it and it runs like a top now. Thanks!
Otto 81494 Great! Glad it helped out!
A great video have run saws for 40 years with Hydro and personal business. Thank you.
I run a bunch of Stihl power tools daily in a commercial setting. We always take the spark arresters out. The eventually clog up irrespective of a correct mix or not. We absolutely mix the correct ratio. My guess is, they only put those on for liability reasons. Maybe so Stihl dealers can make minimum 30min- one-hour labour charges and diagnosis fees for a two minute job, for something very obvious to those who know.
I had similar problem with my leaf blower (also a Stihl in my case). It started but ran roughly and had low power. Such an easy thing to check and fix - it simply unscrews. Cleaned by soaking in gas and gentle fine wire brush. Now a part of my annual clean/maintenance.
;-)
Not to be critical but u should let it warm up a bit b4 u run it wide open like that.
Give that piston bore a chance to expand a bit.
Outher than that thanks for the vid.
Great info... Dad always said it's the big three -air, fuel and spark ... Most fail to realize breathing = inhale AND exhale.
I have a decent 044 and it started bogging down after cutting a few cords of wood. Took it into a local saw shop. He said he was going to. Retune the carb real fast. He used an allen wrench. First off its a flat head screw on the carb. He said i needed a new carb. Would cost me $100. Went home and retuned the carb right. Runs great.
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I had another cause of bogging out that I’ve fixed. I accidently
used chain oil in the fuel instead of T2 engine oil. The engine run at idle but
bogged out at high revs. When I put the right fuel in it was OK. I went through
all of the cleaning and adjusting processes it was only when I tried a new mix
of fuel that I realised the fuel in the tank was yellow, the only T2 oil that I
have is pink but both bottles are black and look the same. All the best . . . Andy
I like how within 2 seconds of starting it, you pegged the throttle and screamed her wide open. That's always good for a cold saw.
Old wives tale.. That's a 4 stroke issue
Thanks for this information, quite helpful. One comment, though, the crud on the screen is really not corrosion.
Thanks for the video. I just inherited my dads chainsaw and now I know a lot more about it.
Arian Smith 😊
I guess I just fixed mine by removing the muffler and cleaning the screen. I had tried the low/high speed adjustment and only when I did this did it start to work. Thanks.
Thanks for the concise video. I fixed my saw in minutes!
contacted stihl about the arrestor screen for a Stihl 171 and had a reply back The MS 171 supplied in the UK does not have an arrester screen as they were only available in the product version MS171-Z which were supplied in Australia, USA and Canada.
Foxboss9 is right about fuel. Not only should it be keept fresh, but at the right ratio.
I had problems with my 42cc Poulan saw bogging after running wide open for 20-30 sec. I fashioned a tool to adjust the carb (I'm pretty expert at tuning). It ran much stronger, but still bogged after running wide open for 20-30 sec. I made a batch of fresh fuel at 35:1, though the engine calls for 40:1. That did the trick. It now smokes a bit (no smoke is not healthy), runs super strong, and never bogs. Man, that saw cuts like it's angry now.
When you have 3 or 4 2 stroke tools calling for 30:1 through 50:1, you have to be careful. Label your fuel cans!
Had to do the same thing with my stihl leaf blower. Ended up just cutting the screen off altogether. It's ran great for 16 years now.
Great video. Have the same saw it bogs down when I full throttle sometimes. If you do another it would be nice to see and hear how it fails before fixing.
Thank you! I have spent way too many hours checking/cleaning the wrong spots!
jiminmontana 👍😁
Might also check the impulse line for cracks. Replace it if cracked or it won't idle/spool up right.
You should have run the saw with the bogging problem to show what it sounds like with the screen plugged.
Listen to the song "Lumberjack ". Forget who sings it....Jackle ?
@@anthonythorp7291 I havent jacked my lumber babaayyyy, since my chain saw youuuuuuuuuuuuu. lol yes Jackal.
Thankyou. Similar problem on strimmer. Didnt know there was a gauze on muffler. Sorted my liw power, it is like a new one now. 👍
brian riding 👍😁
I just bought an 87 homelite for $2 from the junk yard. Shot some carb cleaner though the intake and it fired 2nd pull. New carb rebuild, new magneto, new spark plug, half the bolts were loose, and it was just buried literally to the handle in the mud in a scrap pile. My guess is they had issues with it not running under WOT, tore it all apart and changed everything, then just gave up when they couldnt figure it out. Their loss, my gain. I got a practically free bright neon orange saw😂
That's a really organized workspace👌 definitly fits in a 5S program
Damm commies bringing in their organization techniques
Thank you for the info. I’m having an issue with a new saw. Starts fine. Used it for 30 minutes, shut it off to refuel, restarted fine. But now it won’t take any throttle at all. I’m assuming it is a carb adjustment issue and I’ll have to either attempt adjusting the saw, or take it back to the seller for adjustment?
Stihl MS170 and 180's are notorious for this problem. The carbs are non-adjustable and often run a little too rich. This results in blocking of the spark arrestor with the oil in the exhaust. I remove my arrestor and only reinstall it for summer use, when fire is a worry.
Screen is a spark arrestor.....and can be the primary reason it bogs. Nice Video!!
Posting this around because I couldn't find anybody else online talking
about it:
After having a world of trouble with my Stihl MS-250 not starting, I
decided to check the coil. It had spark, but I guess it wasn't strong
enough to fire the plug. Forums have people that tell you to replace the
coil in a case such as this, but a few say the coil seldom goes bad in a
Stihl.
My saw is not that old. Even so, I decided to pull the coil and replace
it with one out of another older ms-250 I have. Then I noticed the gap
between the old saw's coil and flywheel. It was not the same as the one
on the problem saw. The non-starting unit had a wider gap.
I got back online and found the correct gap setting should be 25
thousandth (can use a business card to set the gap). I decided to only
remove the coil and clean it up, then reset the gap.
I put everything back together and used a business card to set the gap.
Then pulled the spark plug and made sure it was gaped at 25 thousandths
too.
The saw fired up and runs like new!
It's hard to understand how that gap changed. It was never torn down
till now, and it used to run very well for the longest time. Maybe
buildup from the dust and oil lodged between the two components and
caused it? But the torque screws holding it in place were very tight,
and I can't see any reason for the coil to have slipped.
But now happy... got my toy to working again.
mine would start cold no problem but if it would if it ran for a minute it wouldn't start for a couple hours was the coil. how does Chinese one minute so I spent nine bucks & stuck another one in it again
I read thru all replies and got my answer about mix ratio. 40:1.....husky are 50:1.... I have one of each so I'm going do write it on saw so I don't forget. While the husky is bigger engine, the stihl is lighter weight. I'm liking the stihl better. Arms not as tired after cutting all day! Cuts like butter with sharp chain.
When I was a teen my dad had a monster Lombard Comango which we would cut cords and cords of wood every year in Maine with, he never ever got a chance to show me how to tune it, just sharpen it!
the spark arrestor screen can clog from user error as well, not always too rich. users at work have been able to clog screens, usually only after 2-3 seasons. the fuel they run is ethanol free, stihl ultra 50:1. once you run an engine with plugged screen you never forget the characteristics. probably not the best idea to free rev that cold engine at initial start up.
I've never heard of checking the exhaust screen and muffler. Hmm. Good info. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing this tip. I would never have thought to check that screen.
n124lp 👍😁
Great video. Great info. Straight to the point and easy to follow. Great flow.
Depends on saw, exhaust screen, spark plug, good clean fuel, air filter clean, been sitting carb cleaning, inspection. Runs bit funky carb possibly, then adjusting like here...
Over time that screen (spark arrestor) can rust apart and pieces could find their way into the cylinder. I blew a saw that way a few years ago. Chuck it. Thumbs up for the vid.
slofr8dan thank s for watching and sharing👍👍
Hadn't thought about the ol' "potato in the exhaust " problem. I'm going out and inspect that screen now, Thanks.
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@Foxboss9 thankyou very much ! You just saved me a lot of money and 2 days sending my chainsaw to a service company. I guess you do learn something new everyday! Thankyou again.
If you only use chainsaw once in a while; only use ready mix gas and oil sold at Canadian Tire or at your local chainsaw dealer. It has high octane and has a shelf life of 2 years, no more problems with your chainsaw gumming up after that.
+kodiak we don't have Canadian Tire in lower 48, especially in Alabama
davel8n I figured that much which is why I also mentioned your local chainsaw dealer ;)
kodiak could not agree more with you so many insist on 87 octane pump gas & don't understand that it's strictly an auto fuel
I use that canned fuel for all my 2 strokes. it's quite a bit more expensive but saves you a lot more money and time in the long run.
In Ontario Canada, Premium fuel at Shell Stations does not contain Ethanol. Best choice for 2 strokes and show cars that are not used in Winter. Excellent video.
When I'm done using my saw and I'm not going to use it for a while I always pour out the fuel and run it til it runs out of gas that way when I get ready to use it next time I can put in fresh fuel. Saves a lot of headaches later.
Thank you ! My screen was plugged.
No More Bog !!
Why I like buying the premix out of the can good for 2 years. How often does a home owner cut wood . Shut off leave it until who knows when . 20.00 Gal it is worth it . Keeps it nice clean.
I just picked up 2 Echo CS340 and 440 at a recycle center just need to clean carb out.
If it's not the spark arrestor that's clogged it can either be the fact that the carby needs adjusting or that the carby has an air leak in it.
I bought a crappy carby on EBay for a Stihl hedge trimmer that I rebuilt for someone that had air leaking around the 1 way check valve for the main jet,it was a poor fit inside the carby body & the fuel ate away the Loctite & where it previously ran good,the hedge trimmer returned with running problems,I can tell by placing the carby inside a jar of water with the hose attached to the fuel supply & applied air pressure to the hose then found out that air was leaking from around the check valve.
I ordered another one for $30 AUD & it ran as good as gold.
I had to carefully isolate the problem because the caretaker who used that 2 stroke lawn equipment literally poured 2 stroke oil into the fuel tank without measuring it.
That's why a lot of the Stihl leaf blowers I repaired of theirs needed their spark arrestor screens cleaned as that caused them to Lack power.
I burned the carbon out of them with a propane torch,normally you shouldn't have to because Stihl recommends a 50:1 fuel to oil mixture which means that the exhaust is virtually smokeless !!!!
Hi Foxboss9, I just replaced the rotted off clunk/fuel line. Thought that would make her run. Nope, runs, but the top end dies out. I run 32:1 gas/oil mix, so your idea of the exhaust screen may be the problem, I will try that next. Gas is two weeks old.
I run 2 stroke "Chain saw engines" on my large radio control warbird aircraft, so have a fair amount of experience with these engines. I have run 32:1 to great success, for over 5 years. So, this poulan engine ran great 2 months ago. A couple of weeks ago, I tried it, and blah, hardly ran. Could be a combination of errors such as dirty fuel screen in the carb. Engine is 7 years old and has run great up till now.
Good luck
lbjlbj1 all stihl products run 50:1 period, youll end up frying the piston and cylinder and it will not take long. first sign is your gonna start loosing compression
curtis kitchens that is what Stihl recommends using their oil... Better mix oil such as Echo's ISO-LEG-D rated oil can be used at a lesser ratio. These guys aren't worried about warranties on their old saws. MFG recommendations are just that. For every saw that has burned up there are 20 doing fine. Just like no load full Rev.. Fuel limitation based on carb design will not allow a well tuned engine to scatter if it's wound up to it's upper limits.. For every one that has come apart there are 70 that don't experience I'll effects. Theoretical operation standards are rarely the actual abilities. I listened to all the Mfg's during all my training over the years and found that they all are teaching what is in the best for the MFG and never, ever what you can get away with. With the exception of Echo's advanced failure analysis class in which they have shown that you can run their cheapest string trimmer on straight gas, at full throttle for over an hour (refill on the fly) and will continue to run. It will be damaged but can be done. Showing that with a very minor amount or oil in the mix it will do the same thing without damage. But obviously they don't recommend it.
FOXBOSS9 you did a fantastic job on the video here. most videos drag out too long and gets boring.
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Thanks foxboss.....I found filter......appreciate the help......may have another coming soon.....thanks
Thank you so much for sharing this. I’ve pretty much done everything EXCEPT check the exhaust. I bet anything that’s the problem. Only been an operator for two years so I’m still wet behind the ears when it comes to this tormenting wretch. But I’m going out there now and fix it... thanks to YOUR HELP. Stay warm!!! I know I can now!!!
ZJhontu1 👍😁
Seems like you have more ethanol in your gas over there than we do in Norway. I have a Stihl 017 saw that is 12-15 years old now. And it has never missed a beat. Starts every time, even with gas left in it over the winter.
But of course now when I have bragged about it I'll bet you I'll have to take it apart the next time I am going to use it.
Great vid. by the way.
+Norseman220 We may. But like anything else it depends on a lot of different variables. For example in the SW states like Arizona and New Mexico where it is a very dry climate I would suspect the moisture is non existent in the fuel. So, even though their fuel may have the same amount of Ethanol being used during storage it is less likely for Hygroscopic breakdown playing a part in their non-running issues say than the same saw and fuel being used in Ohio.
I know the way fuel is produced and stored is different from one state to another too. I worked for a shop here in Ohio and transferred to another "sister" shop in Florida. I could not believe how different the gas smelled in the machines being worked on down there compared to what I was use to coming from a shop in the Midwest.
I think the type of mix oil being used has a lot to do with it too. As I have a Weedeater brand string trimmer that was purchased in 2002 as a factory refurbished return and Like your Stihl, I never have an issue with it. I too leave gas in it in the off season(up to 7 months) and it fires up within a 5-8 pulls when I finally need to use it. But I use mix oil that is ISO LEGD certified. Which is some of the highest quality you can buy. (now I will probably have a problem too lol))
I have some suspicion that this particular saw was using the wrong mix ratio and also cheap 2 stroke oil.
Thanks for the comment and sharing..I love hearing from Overseas viewers it makes the world seem a bit smaller😊
Well, you just saved my chainsaw. Running perfect now. Thought it was dead. Thanks!
I throw those spark arrestor screens in the trash. nothing but trouble have fixed many saws and weed trimmers and leaf blowers with the same problem they run great after doing so. its funny how people think its fuel related a lot of times when its a plugged muffler screen or exhaust ports on a 2 cycle engine
So true
Fantastic insights and a great video, Now my interpretation: gGet rid of the screen, put it in the garbage and reassemble and never worry about that again.
Bad idea, that screen stops sparks from exiting the saw. Clean and replace or just replace.
the little holes before the spark arrestor screen is the part where I drilled bigger holes and where the little fins are on the exhaust ,I bent them out a little more, for better flow. And one more good tip is the combustion bowl would be so caked by looking at that screen. Take out the plug and spray that head cleaner or tune up in a can . put the plug back in and dont put the plug wire on it . pull it a couple times slowly and let it sit for awhile 30 min. approx. then take out the plug and spray some starter fluid on the plug Pt. put it back together and start it up and watch all these chunks of old hard carbon fly outta your muffler. Ive done this to so many motors that wont run well. Might have to clean the exhaust again because of all that crap might not make it out with the screen and small holes. Runs like just bought most of the time.
Solved my problem on the same machine, thanks!
Perfect. Too bad I didn't look under the muffler before trying to adjust the carb. I suspect I was heavy on the oil in the gas. Glad to have my little saw back.
I wish I was that smart. Nice diagnosis.
Great tip! I always go a tad heavier on oil. Only because very seldom does the saw idle more than 45 seconds. Other than warm up.
It. Its wide open. I'm not a climber. Can understand that.
From what I understand they have leaned everything out too. For epa junk.
Spark arrestors a good idea.
Never a fan of Sthil . Started with Mchulloch only because only descent service guy. 1010,610, and 710. All by age 16.
East coast. Prefer Husky or jonsered. Lighter faster.
Got a husky 40 brothers I bought my dad decades ago. Dad and one brother gone. Saw still here.
372xp. Saw does the work.
Have to be on your toes. .what's your choice and why?
I noticed the carb needs a little adjustment. Mine was running the same way. While engine running, I would take low idle and turn in a 1/4 turn, if run worse, I would now run it out get back the 1/4, and add another 1/4 turn, if this didnt change, then I went to high screw and used the same principle. Now mine is running fine. I did this on both of my saws Stihl 021, and ms250. One more note. I poured the gas out and started with fresh. When I got done running saw, I poured my gas back into my gas can using funnel. I started my chainsaws and ran every drop out of fuel line and remainder of carb. Now it should be good to store till next use. I dont have to worry about diaphragm, etc
+davel8n saw was cold, that was first start in 2 years.
Thanks Pal, this makes a lot of sense. Will check my saw for same problem.