When you buy diaphrams and gaskets, even at the most professional shops, they don't tell you how to set that meter, or even suggest a metering guide for the model Zama carburator you have. Bummer. THUMBS UP!!!!!!!
They are not supposed to tell you. When you go to a workshop you pay for the parts and for the knowledge. If u just go there and get a part you should have the knowledge already.
Your advice on these tiny carburettors has been invaluable. I do however, prefer working on the much larger vehicle carburettors. The problem with working on these tiny carbs. is one must have the dexterity in their fingers as a Neuro surgeon. Having hands like shovels is not recommended. I just wish that I had found out about the tiny bushing in my Zama rotary carburettor. Cleaning this type of carb. resulted in said bushing going ''walk-about'' I have spent so long looking on the internet for either the bushing, or said bushing in a gasket kit, I now have square eyes & calluses on my arse. . . looks like a new computer chair is also in order. Attempting to find one in the republic of Ireland has proved fruitless. I suspect I would have more luck in finding a Leprechaun. . . .come to think of it! a Leprechaun would have the ideal size hands for working on these carburettors. maybe! just Maybe! Ireland could become the the building capital of the world for these tiny carburettors. Looks like I shall have to buy a new carburettor . . . . all for sake of a tiny bushing. Bugger! Keep up the good work . . . .and Remember! Have a Great Day . . .for it surely must be better than my day :) :) Must now rush of to see my occultist to have eyes returned to normal.
I was taught to place a straight edge over the body of the carb and look for a gap or movement of the lever. I just invested $8.50 into the gauges from Amazon. Thanks.
Hi Tom. I’ve got three petrol 1/5 scale RC cars. Two of them are using Walbro WT-997. One car runs perfectly. One car runs rich. I had to lean out the L ridiculously lean, like 0.5 turns out just to get the engine to start and idle. I tore the carb apart but didn’t see anything obvious. Perhaps this lever was too high and it was always getting too much fuel. And the third car has a clone of the 997 made by RuiXing, and this one runs leans all the time. When I pulled this one apart the throttle butterfly was bent so it always had air which means the car was always moving. Anyway I’ve ordered the kits to rebuild them and thanks for making these videos!
Hi i just rebuilt a zama c1q s131 carb with a rebuild kit off ebay . Your videos have been a huge help thank you sir . My stihl fs90 strimmer starts up straight away and idles nicely at tick over now where as before it was a sod to start and the tickover was all over the shop . Only problem now is the high speed is still lacking in power and it still seems to be missing ,not running cleanly . The adjustment on the high speed screw do not alleviate the problem. I have a new coil and spark plug ,gap is set correctly , the valve lash is set ,new filters ,hoses and tank vent . I did replace the zama with a very cheap (£14) carb off ebay but it only worked well for a couple of days before it became almost impossible to start , still wouldnt work after i cleaned it and checked the lever height etc which is when i decided to buy the rebuild kit . Do you think i would be better off getting a new carb ? Could the high speed screw be damaged ? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated thank you kindly
Glad it helped! Very interesting, they often have cam problems and can develop air leaks too. Have you checked fuel lines? Impulse? Fuel filter? Tank vent?
@@VintageEngineRepairs thank you for the prompt reply , it has new fuel lines ,filters ,impulse hose, tank vent ,cam gear and spark plug . Once i replaced the zama carb with the ebay carb the running issues were gone , i could get full power and tick over and it started easy but the carb stopped working after a couple of days so i rebuilt the zama with a kit and it improved it , it now starts straight away and ticks over nicely but the old problem it had of not reaching full rpm while sounding like its missing slightly is still there ,its like at full throttle the rpm wavers slightly and the high speed screw adjustment wont rectify it .
@@VintageEngineRepairs hi i replaced the carb and all seems good now ,fingers crossed lol. Thank you so much for your help. Your channel is amazing ,i think once people find your channel you subscription numbers will be huge bro .
@@malcdellow Yes I know it's a bottle brush, I have three. But isn't that part of the wattle family? I'm not a botanist, and don't care. They are just a pretty tree that the bees and birds love.
if you pause your video at 0:40 seconds where you have the metering lever zoomed in. In between the metering lever and the M12 writing you have one raised ridge. On the other side of the metering lever you have another raised ridge. They are curved. They are there for a reason. So if you do not have the W tool you can still set the metering lever to the correct height
Can we just add that in these Walbro WA and WT carburettors there are 2x raised ridges on either side of the metering lever. these ridges are exactly 1.5mm below the surface of the body of the carb. its the same height as the middle of the official Walbro W tool. So if you do not have the W tool, you can still set the metering lever to the correct height. The lever simply needs to be level with these two raised ridges, which you can easily achieve using the short side end of a common 30cm steel rule! But the correct tool can be had very cheap as well, even clones of the tool now exist on chinese shopping apps.
@@VintageEngineRepairs so if you pause your video at 40 seconds where you have the metering lever zoomed in. In between the metering lever and the M12 writing you have one raised ridge. On the other side of the metering lever you have another raised ridge. They are curved. They are there for a reason. So if you do not have the W tool you can still set the metering lever to the correct height
Looks like Red Corn Cobs on that Tree!! Are there many carbs with Clip-Type attachment buttons instead of just push-on buttons that contact the metering lever?
I just noticed your edited question kenny! Yes, in fact tillotson use to do exactly that, not common now days, more so on the older engines. The height must be set the same :) Same with the metering forked end, they don’t always hold the needle! They instead sometimes press up and onto the top of the needle :) again that’s tillotson who use to do that most often!
Completely different plant family. Not even related but you're right it doesn't matter unless someone else is listening to you and take your word for it. A bit like calling a Ford Falcon a Holden Commodore I suppose.
How do you know what height to use when you have a generic carb? Sometimes people bring me a saw that doesn't have the original carb. so I have no idea what model carb came on it from the factory.
They’ll be a clone of another carburetor, it’s just finding out what copy they are. Alternativly, before you remove the lever, measure the height with a vernier!
Question: I can't get any response on idle screw on a ms180c stihl chainsaw, carb has preset (no adjustment for h or l ) I've installed new diaphragms and it only idles high. Won't change no matter all way in or out. I took apart again and find no interferences. Any ideas? Thanks so much for your educational videos
Yeah the carbs on them are really useless. They have an air bleed as a low speed adjustment and no high speed screw. Google search “walbro WT215 carb swap ms 180”
@Vintage EngineRepairs Could you please do another short on the 200 ml bottles you use with the brass spouts? I have tried and been unable to find them again in either your videos or Amazon
The factory setting is only starting place for adjustments, it doesn’t necessarily mean it will run well there. I have a few carburetor tuning videos, I hope they help!
@ gotcha, no such thing as a float in these and the butterfly is a disk, nothing can leak from it. I think you mean fuel is passing the choke flap. It’s likely because your needle is leaking.
@ yes we call it that over my way lol but yes it’s coming from there I’ve changed the gaskets and the spring plus the part that when the lever goes down the needle float not sure what it’s called rises
I’m 😂it’s just the same with my wife too but we are all good to be together so it’s just not that much to be having it on a Saturday morning and then it’s all the time so we just don’t know when it’s a holiday so it’s a holiday but we don’t really need a break
LOL!I’m not so sure, probably more for bees, they kept flying around me while filming. In hindsight it wasn’t such a great place to film! Thanks for watching :)
If this video helped you, please consider clicking on the THANKS button above to support my channel 🙌
Great work Tom. Expert knowledge and clear communication as always.
Thank you!
Really good information Tom, top guy for this sort of information 👌👌👍👍
Thank you Nev!
Man, where have you been! This is such valuable information. Information which is never found. Thanks for this.
Glad you enjoyed it :) thanks!
Another great video Tom
Thank you Barry!
When you buy diaphrams and gaskets, even at the most professional shops, they don't tell you how to set that meter, or even suggest a metering guide for the model Zama carburator you have. Bummer. THUMBS UP!!!!!!!
Thank you!
They are not supposed to tell you.
When you go to a workshop you pay for the parts and for the knowledge.
If u just go there and get a part you should have the knowledge already.
You are very knowledgeable. Thank you
You’re welcome :)
Good show mate.
Thanks Bill :)
Your advice on these tiny carburettors has been invaluable. I do however, prefer working on the much larger vehicle carburettors. The problem with working on these tiny carbs. is one must have the dexterity in their fingers as a Neuro surgeon. Having hands like shovels is not recommended.
I just wish that I had found out about the tiny bushing in my Zama rotary carburettor. Cleaning this type of carb. resulted in said bushing going ''walk-about''
I have spent so long looking on the internet for either the bushing, or said bushing in a gasket kit, I now have square eyes & calluses on my arse. . . looks like a new computer chair is also in order.
Attempting to find one in the republic of Ireland has proved fruitless. I suspect I would have more luck in finding a Leprechaun. . . .come to think of it! a Leprechaun would have the ideal size hands for working on these carburettors. maybe! just Maybe! Ireland could become the the building capital of the world for these tiny carburettors.
Looks like I shall have to buy a new carburettor . . . . all for sake of a tiny bushing. Bugger!
Keep up the good work . . . .and Remember! Have a Great Day . . .for it surely must be better than my day :) :) Must now rush of to see my occultist to have eyes returned to normal.
Thanks for the kind words, yes lots of tiny parts on these 😂🤣
Nice video Tom, you're always so helpful. 👍
Thank you John! I appreciate you watching mate :)
Anytime buddy
I was taught to place a straight edge over the body of the carb and look for a gap or movement of the lever. I just invested $8.50 into the gauges from Amazon. Thanks.
Good choice well made :)
Great info....Much appreciated! figured out the leaver part for myself but never considered the height of the nipple.
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Another excellent video
Thank you!!
Very useful information. Thank you !!!
You’re welcome!
Hi Tom. I’ve got three petrol 1/5 scale RC cars. Two of them are using Walbro WT-997. One car runs perfectly. One car runs rich. I had to lean out the L ridiculously lean, like 0.5 turns out just to get the engine to start and idle. I tore the carb apart but didn’t see anything obvious. Perhaps this lever was too high and it was always getting too much fuel.
And the third car has a clone of the 997 made by RuiXing, and this one runs leans all the time. When I pulled this one apart the throttle butterfly was bent so it always had air which means the car was always moving. Anyway I’ve ordered the kits to rebuild them and thanks for making these videos!
Thanks for sharing :) great stuff! 1/2 a turn out isn’t necessarily wrong, it’s just not the norm :)
Hi thanks for your information.where can I purchase awalbro carburetor gauge
Thanks for that valuable info 😊
You’re welcome :)
This dude is a master mechanic
Ha I wish, thanks though :)
Excellent video mate, thanks.
Thank you!
Well done. Keep doing what your doing. You are doing it well.
Thank you :)
Nice one Tom
Thanks Al :)
Fantastic , thank you
You’re welcome 👍
Hi i just rebuilt a zama c1q s131 carb with a rebuild kit off ebay .
Your videos have been a huge help thank you sir .
My stihl fs90 strimmer starts up straight away and idles nicely at tick over now where as before it was a sod to start and the tickover was all over the shop .
Only problem now is the high speed is still lacking in power and it still seems to be missing ,not running cleanly .
The adjustment on the high speed screw do not alleviate the problem.
I have a new coil and spark plug ,gap is set correctly , the valve lash is set ,new filters ,hoses and tank vent .
I did replace the zama with a very cheap (£14) carb off ebay but it only worked well for a couple of days before it became almost impossible to start , still wouldnt work after i cleaned it and checked the lever height etc which is when i decided to buy the rebuild kit .
Do you think i would be better off getting a new carb ?
Could the high speed screw be damaged ?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated thank you kindly
Glad it helped! Very interesting, they often have cam problems and can develop air leaks too. Have you checked fuel lines? Impulse? Fuel filter? Tank vent?
@@VintageEngineRepairs thank you for the prompt reply , it has new fuel lines ,filters ,impulse hose, tank vent ,cam gear and spark plug .
Once i replaced the zama carb with the ebay carb the running issues were gone , i could get full power and tick over and it started easy but the carb stopped working after a couple of days so i rebuilt the zama with a kit and it improved it , it now starts straight away and ticks over nicely but the old problem it had of not reaching full rpm while sounding like its missing slightly is still there ,its like at full throttle the rpm wavers slightly and the high speed screw adjustment wont rectify it .
@@VintageEngineRepairs i checked for air leaks with map gas after i watched your video , no air leaks ,great tip by the way thanks bro
Ahhh it’s probably the limiter on the coil kicking in! They have them to stop the engine over speeding :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs hi i replaced the carb and all seems good now ,fingers crossed lol.
Thank you so much for your help.
Your channel is amazing ,i think once people find your channel you subscription numbers will be huge bro .
Great info Luke
Thanks Arnold
Thank my friend ❤
You’re welcome
Beautiful Aussie wattle behind you !! Very healthy !! And great video too...!! 😉
Ha thanks mate!!
Bottle brush, not Wattle
@@malcdellow Yes I know it's a bottle brush, I have three. But isn't that part of the wattle family? I'm not a botanist, and don't care. They are just a pretty tree that the bees and birds love.
thanks
Pleasure :)
if you pause your video at 0:40 seconds where you have the metering lever zoomed in. In between the metering lever and the M12 writing you have one raised ridge. On the other side of the metering lever you have another raised ridge. They are curved. They are there for a reason. So if you do not have the W tool you can still set the metering lever to the correct height
I never knew that! Thanks for sharing :)
What bush/plant/tree is behind you? It is amazing!
I’m not too sure! It’s beautiful isn’t it. Makes a great backdrop apart from the bees lol
You're looking at a Bottlebrush plant, possibly a Kingston Park variety. Wonderful plants that a drought tolerant and amazing bird attractors.
Can we just add that in these Walbro WA and WT carburettors there are 2x raised ridges on either side of the metering lever. these ridges are exactly 1.5mm below the surface of the body of the carb. its the same height as the middle of the official Walbro W tool. So if you do not have the W tool, you can still set the metering lever to the correct height. The lever simply needs to be level with these two raised ridges, which you can easily achieve using the short side end of a common 30cm steel rule! But the correct tool can be had very cheap as well, even clones of the tool now exist on chinese shopping apps.
Sorry mate I’m not sure what you mean raised ridges? Thanks for sharing though! Much appreciated :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs so if you pause your video at 40 seconds where you have the metering lever zoomed in. In between the metering lever and the M12 writing you have one raised ridge. On the other side of the metering lever you have another raised ridge. They are curved. They are there for a reason. So if you do not have the W tool you can still set the metering lever to the correct height
Looks like Red Corn Cobs on that Tree!! Are there many carbs with Clip-Type attachment buttons instead of just push-on buttons that contact the metering lever?
Ha! It does doesn’t it 🤣
What kind of tree is that?
@@gadasavideos8564 bottlebrush
I just noticed your edited question kenny! Yes, in fact tillotson use to do exactly that, not common now days, more so on the older engines. The height must be set the same :)
Same with the metering forked end, they don’t always hold the needle! They instead sometimes press up and onto the top of the needle :) again that’s tillotson who use to do that most often!
Question? Could you use pop off pressure to set your needle height?
Na they’re unrelated in that respect :)
Completely different plant family. Not even related but you're right it doesn't matter unless someone else is listening to you and take your word for it. A bit like calling a Ford Falcon a Holden Commodore I suppose.
Hey sorry you’ve totally lost me?
Thanks!
Thank you for the super thanks!! Much appreciated :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs I enjoy your content. Plus, Tom is the greatest first name ever.
@@haneyoakie14 LOL! I presume it’s yours too 🤣👍👍
@@VintageEngineRepairs yep!
How do you know what height to use when you have a generic carb? Sometimes people bring me a saw that doesn't have the original carb. so I have no idea what model carb came on it from the factory.
They’ll be a clone of another carburetor, it’s just finding out what copy they are. Alternativly, before you remove the lever, measure the height with a vernier!
Question: I can't get any response on idle screw on a ms180c stihl chainsaw, carb has preset (no adjustment for h or l ) I've installed new diaphragms and it only idles high. Won't change no matter all way in or out. I took apart again and find no interferences. Any ideas? Thanks so much for your educational videos
Yeah the carbs on them are really useless. They have an air bleed as a low speed adjustment and no high speed screw. Google search “walbro WT215 carb swap ms 180”
@Vintage EngineRepairs
Could you please do another short on the 200 ml bottles you use with the brass spouts?
I have tried and been unable to find them again in either your videos or Amazon
Sure, they’re Pressol oil bottles in 125mls. I can’t get them here any more, I had to go to the UK to order them!
@@VintageEngineRepairs thank you very much
does adjusting the idle screw on the carb can cause the engine to flood? i did that to adjust my idling speed and suddenly I can't start my engine.
Na, it can’t mate, if you adjust the low it can though!
@@VintageEngineRepairs I set the L back to it's factory setting, but still the engine flooded everytime, is the carburetor damage already?
The factory setting is only starting place for adjustments, it doesn’t necessarily mean it will run well there. I have a few carburetor tuning videos, I hope they help!
I’ve just replace all the diaphragm but I’m getting a leak from the butterfly float what I’m I doing wrong
Hey, sorry, what is a butterfly float?
@ it’s the brass disc that’s opens in the carb
@ gotcha, no such thing as a float in these and the butterfly is a disk, nothing can leak from it. I think you mean fuel is passing the choke flap. It’s likely because your needle is leaking.
@ yes we call it that over my way lol but yes it’s coming from there I’ve changed the gaskets and the spring plus the part that when the lever goes down the needle float not sure what it’s called rises
@@VintageEngineRepairs I’ve replaced the metering lever the pin the spring and the needle
If you were an Aussie or a Kiwi you'd understand. Try looking up GMH Holden
I just don’t understand how either of your comments are related to this video
Interesting
Glad you enjoyed it!
Carburaytors?
I spent too much time around Americans
Correct pronunciation!😀
And the link to the metering lever gauges is ???????????
Sorry, here you go: amzn.to/3VVUMZx
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thank you. This was a valuable lesson so I wanted to be able to complete the task next time!
Absolutely :) you’re welcome!
I’m 😂it’s just the same with my wife too but we are all good to be together so it’s just not that much to be having it on a Saturday morning and then it’s all the time so we just don’t know when it’s a holiday so it’s a holiday but we don’t really need a break
Sorry mate I don’t have a clue what you’re talking about 🤣
Ah ha! (subscribed)
Thank you! :)
👍
👍
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤
👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you, mate
Pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Good one Tom ! About that tree I believe they were specifically engineered for kangaroos so they would have a way to scatch their backs yeh ? 🦘 😆
LOL!I’m not so sure, probably more for bees, they kept flying around me while filming. In hindsight it wasn’t such a great place to film! Thanks for watching :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Itchy bees that's a new one 😆