Thrustmaster T300 / TX Clicking Issue (Possible Fix)
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- I decided to fix my T300 myself. I did something... that fixed my issue... not sure if this is the definite fix. But it worked for me :)
DISCLAIMER: I DO NOT GUARANTEE THIS WILL WORK FOR YOU. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN ACTIONS.
#Thrustmaster #T300 #TX #T300RS #Clicking #Issue
Thank you for the video, I had the same issue with slightly lighter noise, I'll try it later :)
Thanks again for this nice reference.
Did it work for you
Did you fix the issue?
Для тех кто сомневается, у меня был такой же звук при повороте налево но намного тише, очистив шкив двигателя и передаточнцю шестерню звук почти пропал(я не до конца очистил шестерню так как к ней очень трудно добраться) если это вам не помогло, проверьте мотор, открутите и попробуйте его повращать пальцами если звука нет то со снятым мотором потыкайте эффекты форсфидбека.
Перед тем как снимать двигатель сделайте метку по которой снова натяните ремень, ничего сложного нет.
For those who are in doubt, I had a similar sound when turning left, but much quieter. After cleaning the engine pulley and the transfer gear, the sound almost disappeared (I didn't fully clean the gear because it's challenging to access). If this didn't help, check the motor. Unscrew it and try turning it with your fingers. If there's no sound, try manipulating the feedback effects with the motor removed. Before removing the motor, make a mark so you can re-tension the belt along the same line. It's not complicated at all.
👍
That black residue is actually the belt getting eaten up in the drive, which indicates that there is a deeper issue to be solved. For the lower tier wheels, the TMX/T150, they have a similar drive system, and the symptoms creep up as uneven FFB and a wobbling sound, and the solution is to unbolt the motor and stick something between the motkr and plate to space it back, as the part that's eating away at the belt is the inside lip of the motor pulley. Even if you don't clean away the residue, which you should, the problem goes away almost immediately with the motor spaced back a little bit.
I had to do the spacer mod on my TMX, as it was getting the residues and making the sounds, and I recently opened it back up after a *year* of use since then, and the interior is just as clean as the day I closed it, whereas before I did the mod, I would find more residue on the motor every time I opened it up, and I opened it often.
could you send me a picture? imgur would be nice as i have this problem, cleaning didnt fix it
@@nissanoo0393 imgur.com/a/3PiYmTc
This is a set of pictures I took over a year after I did the spacer mod, it was just as clean as the day I did the mod.
I've also done the roller delete friction-free mod, and where the belt is normally tensioned by two plastic sleeve bearing rollers that push on the back of it, the adjustable motor mount is the source of tension here.
Ignoring that mod, you can see what I did with the cardboard strips above and below the motor mounts. Spaces the motor back, thus spaces the gearing back off the belt, thus the belt is no longer riding on the inner lip. I took these pictures as a visual example of what I did to help somebody else perform the mod, and it worked wonderfully for them as well.
@@kmemz nice, all i did is adjust the tensioner :P doesnt require ANYTHING apart from a screwdriver so i went the easy way + i've got a bearing mod instead of those plastic rollers and all my plastic gearing is covered in molykote 30L smooth enough for me and tbh i don't think this wheel will last me too long, got it in march and slapped 250-300h on it already hehe
@@nissanoo0393 Nice, I went for roller delete because I didn't have the money to go for the bearing mod. I've put several hundred hours on my wheel and it shows no signs of wearing out anytime soon, but I've sadly upgraded to the T300RS, managed to pick up a broken base for $60, repaired it for free using knowledge and household items, then got a wheel for $120, reused my T3PA pedals from the TMX. I'm looming to pass the TMX down to a friend though, because it still works beautifully.
@@kmemz nice, including T150 mods there's still a lot of improvement? I've seen people dissapointed by the T300 coming from modded T150 but tbh i think that they had shitty settings as u can literally see what T300 when drifting :P
Thanks bro I always wondered what was causing that noise,
my guess is that the residue is some sort of coating on the rubber being worn off
I think so!
most likely the belt was a little bit loose which caused the gear to scrape the rubber off the belt. curious if you open it now will there be any more black residue.
does the clicking affected to the feel of the wheel? (mine doesnt make noise but turning it is not smooth like it would be in a real car for example)
Pol Rango hey super sorry for my late reply. Didnt think people would actually see this video haha. Yes it did affect the feel of the wheel. Its never going to be as smooth as a real car in this price range but I could feel the clicking. After the clicking was gone I couldnt feel it as much.... really depends on the price of the wheel. The cheaper G27 for example has horrible clicking feel.... Fanatec is almost as smooth as a car...
@@Thonik_ I know im 1 year late but here is my problem .....i got the tmx pro.
When i play and it starts that grinding sound and im loosing all force feedback until i stop the car and turn the wheel.
While going straight i also feel like it turns in larger increments but once it goes past a certain degree it feels smooth .
Does it sound close to your problem ? And i also got alot of belt ''dust'' on the bigger wheel ...not on the motor one
rubber band is called Belt
So right. My bad XD thanks
sometimes when forcefeedback is 100%, and I get a big bump, I hear a click and the wheel looses the centre point. It is possible to centre it back in place buy turning the wheel the other way round until I hear another click. After seeing your video I think that when I get the click the belt moves one position. Do you have this problem? also how did you move the motor upwards?
Sandro Żahra sorry for my late reply. I did not have that issue. But it seems its skipping. You can move the motor up by loosening the screws that hold the motor in place. There's actually some headroom for the screws to move the motor up. It was designed this way to change the tension of the belt.
@@Thonik_ thanks for the info, will try it out
There will always be a bit of cogging that isn't the same as him experiencing what he was there will be some sort of bump or click at times no matter what you do lol
Hello , check my channel I am having this issue also . Is it normal ?
damn i just got one couple's days a go and today that happen the samething to you, idk should i fix it or sent it back ?
This fixed it for me, but that doesn't mean it will work for you. If you are willing to wait for Thrustmasters customer service, then send it back. If not. try it :)
I think your therory is right...
it's a belt not a "band" :)
yup I realised that after recording xD tnx
Noob here.... opening the case consider void warranty already? Even u just cleaning the dust there.
I believe technically yes, but if you replace case properly and didn't affect anything other than cleaning it, you should be OK. My understanding is there are no void seals etc on the case.
@@joshuaelliot2020 Before buying the wheel, I checked the review of "Sim racing garage" profile... He opens everything. It looks like they put some red paint on screw on pedals... - so they can see once you unlock them. But it doesnt look like they put any paint here on the wheel base. I agree - no seals / no warranty loss.
Don't open it, I've read the manual of the wheel :) as soon as the function of the wheel is abnormally you turn it off and contact the retailer ot trustmaster there aren't things serviceable by consumer, so yes, it void it's warranty. Also don't use 100% force feedback
How did you shift it upwards
at 0:54 you can see 3 philips head screws. Loosen them a little bit. Then lift the motor upwards.
Hi, everyone,
I just bought a new Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari Integrale and I have the problem on the PS4/PS5 (in every game) that the steering wheel starts spinning right and left on a straight road when I let my hands of the wheel. I just can't imagine that's this is normal. I've tried some settings. Unfortunately without success..
I can't be the only one.. please some advice or help.. 😔
To much ffb
that's normal, you just need to turn your FFB down
What game are you playing
Im about to buy this wheel and this video and reading people’s comments. Makes me worried that this wheel is garbage and badly made. Is it really
Me too did you come to a winner in the end .
Have read much of that bad reviews, but the Only issue that I have, is that it gets a bit hot and loose ffb when I set the ffb to high in some games.
@@kennyk4134 i know this reply is long, but yeah I eventually have the wheel been a longtime since i used it but overall it was good and enjoyed playing games on it specifically driving simulations such as American truck sim and beamng.
Overall I didn’t encounter any problems.
Ik denk niet dat het verwijderen van het vuil je probleem heeft opgelost. Wel iets in de handelingen die je gedaan hebt voordat je ging poetsen. Dus.. was de riem nog om dat tandwiel? Als je de riem hebt losgemaakt, kun je je voorstellen dat de tandwielen die ook door de riem worden aangedreven ook even zonder trekspanning zaten. Kun je daar iets bedenken?
Het ding is, ik heb hem losser geprobeerd en vaster geprobeerd. Beide keren bleef het klikken. Pas nadat ik het plakkerige spul had verwijderd was er geen geklik meer. Vandaar mijn bevindingen.
Wow such an easy fix lol
Hey mate thanks a lot for the useful video.
Would you think it's similar to what i'm experiencing?
ruclips.net/video/wtlpUzGC_3g/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/rwyKN7d2bkY/видео.html
I started noticing this yesterday...it's clicky but not THAT much. Wondering if worth to open it up like you did..