01/05/2021 UPDATE! Wheel still going strong, and I still stand by what I said in the video. Only thing is I'm a bit harsh with my negative adjectives (eg the movement in the mount really isn't as bad, and milk in tea isn't really as disgusting as I make it sound hehe). It's still super solid, and using larger diameter washers on the bottom mount bolts fixed virtually all play I was having before, thanks for the recommendation whoever it was :P (still using velcro at front). Just be careful and don't overtighten the screw when mounting the wheel. It doesn't need to be that tight to be solid, I probably tightened it too much each time and caused it to wear faster. As far as pedal stuffs: I said increasing "saturation" to make the throttle more linear, which doesn't make sense obviously. I meant decrease saturation (to 0) and increase linearity (to 20-40%ish is how I like it). This is a personal preference thing, there's no one correct setting. I mention maybe buying another wheel or different wheel in the video. That was fairly soon after the mounting system failed. Since finding the solution to the mounting situation, I now have no reasons to purchase another wheel. This will continue to be my main driver for hopefully years to come. Update video in 2024 lol. OLD UPDATES: Would just like to make an update as of the ERS changes in F1 2020: I don't think a button box is necessary anymore for F1 2020. Still useful for setup changes during practice and things like that, but not really needed for racing. For iRacing and rFactor it's still nice to have for all the extra controls, but once again not necessary.
Hey man just got one used from a friend and the base is fine. I heard that in some wheelbases the shaft of the motor becomes loose and loses it's calibration so some people told me to never go over 70% force feedback on the thrustmaster pannel, do you agree?
If the rotation sensor inside is a light shining through a small spoked wheel like the Logi G series, then blowing the unit out with some compressed air should cure your centering issue. The sensor counts the amount of spokes that break the beam so it knows how far and fast you are turning the wheel. Sometimes the spokes get clogged with dust and the sensor light cannot see through it which moves the centre point off. I'm upgrading to one of these after using Logi wheels for years. My T300 arrives on Friday and I can't wait. :)
You can recalibrate the centre position by holding 3 buttons simultaneously on the wheel. Instructions below for various T300 rims :) Reconfiguring the racing wheel's center value (If the racing wheel is slightly off-center in the Control Panel) - If using a PS3/PS4, we recommend performing this procedure in the PS3/PS4 system's menu (not in a game). - If using a PC, we recommend performing this procedure via the Windows® Desktop (not in a game), after exiting the Control Panel. 1) Connect the racing wheel's USB cable (on PS3/PS4 or on PC), then wait for the auto- calibration phase to end. 2) Turn the racing wheel fully to the left (until you reach the stop). 3) Turn the racing wheel fully to the right (until you reach the stop). 4) Make sure that your racing wheel is perfectly centered ; while holding it in this position, press the START, SELECT & MODE buttons simultaneously : * PS & GT WHEEL = « SE + ST + MODE » * F1 WHEEL = « BO + WET + MODE » * 458 CHALLENGE GTE WHEEL = « SCROLL + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE » * TM Leather 28 GT WHEEL = « RED BUTTON + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE » * 599XX EVO 30 ALCANTARA® WHEEL = « RADIO + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE » 5) The racing wheel's LED briefly changes colour, then reverts to its initial colour. This means that the wheel's center value has been reset and automatically saved to the device's internal memory (you do not need to repeat the procedure every time you connect the racing wheel); this applies to all of the wheels (PS, GT, F1, 458 GTE, etc.). YOU ARE NOW READY TO RACE!
@@sirachacha1955 Follow the instructions above, but in step 4 your button combo to hold should be 'X, Y and Mode' for Xbox rim, or '10, 3 and Mode' for the PC rim (yellow, blue and Mode). I've just found this info online, so if that doesn't work try further Googling or contact Thrustmaster Support.
@@zeusgames5701 I recommend looking at ebay or facebook marketplace for deals first and definitely getting the shifter. The shifter adds a whole different feel of immersion but the t300 will be more durable
@@sirachacha1955 I really need it to be durable, I am only 15 years old, so I dont want to dump alot of money into something that will break in a year. But, I also want the shifter. I was thinking about using the logi shifter with a Leo Bodnar adapter. But I'm not sure right now
I've seen other reviews, including ones where the wheel doesn't seem to center, but people just... don't address that. Thanks for pointing it out and explaining it. Nice video!
This video was extremely helpful for someone looking for a new belt driven wheel and really helped to give an idea of the pros and cons from someone who has experienced it for 6 years, thank you.
Great real-world review, with LOTS of experience. Thanks for making so much effort to inform people. I have had the same wheel for two years, mounted on a Playseat Challenge. Any movement problems I have are related to the cockpit rather than the wheel, so I just haven't hit the issues that you point out yet. I'll keep that info in mind for the future. I am really glad to hear about the durability.
Totally agree..I have the T300RS GT and I am super impressed. Upgraded from the Logitech G29 which was a great starter wheel especially when on sale but moving up to the T300Rs was a huge improvement...Great review especially on the long term aspects of owning this wheel...Also I finally upgraded to the Thrustmaster T-LCM load cell pedals and again a great set of pedals, well made and just add that bit more to the sim experience.
Hi, i was thinking about upgrading from a G29 to a T300RS too. After 2 years do you think the upgrade is worth it? or is it better to upgrade to a more expensive wheel?
“I can just stick it in there and slide it up and down…” sounds like a good time…. But seriously thanks for the in-depth review, very helpful and top work. Thanks mate.
I've had my thrustmaster the last past 4 years I love it can't get enough of it wouldn't trade it in for nothing haven't had a problem with it since I've gotten it.
Just picked mine up yesterday at a ridiculously low price (open box TX 458 from Micro Center that was practically unused, same base obviously), and I'm loving it so far! I don't have much to compare it to as it's my first sim wheel, but what a great piece of kit to start with. The pedals are definitely getting swapped ASAP though. My buddy has a Fanatec CSL and a Thrustmaster T150, this thing is whisper quiet compared to the latter. Anyway great review man, keep doing what you're doing.
Great video, after using a G27 for around 11 years I'm upgrading soon to a T300, G27 died a few days back was a good wheel though took plenty of abuse!
Thank you so much for your input. It's not everyday that you find a review backed by such a long-term experience. I'm thinking of buying the T300RS GT Edition, so this review helped out alot! Thanks again!
@@TomTomSGC Like Jaoa Gomes mentioned, it comes with the conical brake brake mod. However, like I mention in the video, I don't care for it and it removes all preciseness from the pedal. I assume it's meant to simulate a brake booster delete, but it's not at all like any track car with its brake booster removed that I've driven.
How to re-center the wheel. Make sure you do this outside of a game (ie at the menu etc) 1. Connect the racing wheel's USB cable (on PS3/PS4 or on PC), then wait for the auto- calibration phase to end. 2. Turn the racing wheel fully to the left (until you reach the stop). 3. Turn the racing wheel fully to the right (until you reach the stop). 4. Make sure that your racing wheel is perfectly centered ; while holding it in this position, press the START, SELECT & MODE buttons simultaneously : • PS & GT WHEEL = « SE + ST + MODE » • F1 WHEEL = « BO + WET + MODE » • 458 CHALLENGE GTE WHEEL = « SCROLL + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE » • TM Leather 28 GT WHEEL = « RED BUTTON + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE » • 599XX EVO 30 ALCANTARA® WHEEL = « RADIO + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE
If my TX is off centered in game, I pause the game and center the wheel and then press the mode button, y, and x buttons at the same time. The mode button will flash once and save the setting. It should be similar for the T300, try hitting mode, triangle, and square at the same time, then unpause your game and should be centered. Also do this in your Thrustmaster utility software to help your start up calibration.
I have tile under my desk setup and these pedals grip hard core. I also decided to still two small wholes at the front left and right corners and screwed it directly to the tile and yeah they don’t move, like at all lol..perfect
Good comprehensive review, Carpy. You covered everything well and in a rational order. I owned the same (except my pedals are metal) and agree with everything (mine overheated a couple of times - I turned the FFB down a little, I forget which sim but I had it higher than my other sims right from install..... and milky tea..yeuk. My throttle pedal seems acceptable ...
getting this in my recommended after I copped my first ever desk mounted kit t300 rs gt with th8a shifter ! great review ! I hope i'll have alot of fun
I am so happy with mine; I got a second one for my SF 1000 F1 wheel and Playseat Formula Pro sim rig Plus the TLCM brake pedals also added to my F1 rig; I use my other T300 base with Alcanterra integral wheel for sim trucking and sim farming on my Playseat Evolution
I have the same issue with the mounting clamp now but only 1 year of use. Your idea of drilling mounting holes into the desk is a brilliant idea. I'll try that before having to spend out on getting a racing frame to do that for me.
fan bearing just died in mine, hopefully $11 and 2 days from now she'll be back in action, almost 2 years of mostly daily use, the wheel itself is going strong, and the fan doesn't look too hard to replace
This is a great video and I loved that you went into every detail. Long term usage reviews are rare and the most valuable. Definitely helped me make up my mind on the purchase of this wheel. Thank you! (Also definitely agree on the tea without milk.)
This was the video I've been looking for. Thank you for break down everything. Now it is time for me to get one! I totally agree with you about the milk in the tea by the way...
Great long term review. For a pretty fanatic player pretty special to see you are still using the original peddles. It’s nice too hear build quality is years lasting. Because of pandemic, winter coming and spending more time indoors I just bought a PS4. As a race fan will start racing too of course. After some research skipped the logi T29 and ordered the 300 GT. Hopefully arriving next week. Based on others reviews and to save some spending money I bought the alcantara wheel and the T3 Pro pedals for upgrade, however both used. Wheel stand on its way too. Off too a good start I hope... have fun and enjoy!
nice. it will be a blast at first. i first bought mine a while back and used it with my ps3 till granturismo6 went offline a few springs ago. then i played grid, and f1 and dirt 3 on ps3. gt6 nascar rooms were very fun and that’s not even my thing. turismo was the only good one. i bought a Ps4 a few years back right after that and gt sport. it’s the only game i’ve played in a while. but i stopped after my ps plus ended and didn’t get back into it till recently. it’s fun even playing career but gt sport has great online and i miss that, so 8ll be getting ps plus soon again, and a few more racing games. thinking of selling the slim ps4 for a pro....
@@travis4308 several options for both! Thrustmaster makes a shifter called the TH8A that plugs directly into the servo that can change between sequential and H-pattern, and you can easily get a USB handbrake to plug in to your PC or Console (check for console support on the handbrake) and they even have shifters that work with USB as well if you dont like the TM one. I still have my T300 on my rig :)
Hi, thats the review i searched for! Thanks man, you helped me a lot. Now im sure, thats my first wheel to start with. Now im really hyped and fell in love with. Just waiting to have the right money for it. Great and enjoyable vid🔥✌🏼👍🏼
@@travis4308 yes Sir. Its a realy great wheel, love the optic and the feel of the alcantara. Sure there are better options, but not for that price. Didnt test the g29 but im sure its way better. Feels great for that price
Its settled for me. I was really pissed the price of this wheel jumped up to 600 bucks recently....not sure if crypto miners are buying these up now too for some nerdy reason, but I feel like i can't settle for the g900 series. If i throw money at sim racing, it will be at the wheel, and skimp on other stuff. Great review. And you are right about milk in Tea, I don't care if my mom is offended...lol
Great video, thanks for the input! Around 5:00 you say that the throttle is not linear. That's how it is in real cars as well, because the thrust pedal changes the angle of a circle in a pipe, if that makes any sense? Google it if you're interested, there are better explanations than a sentence in a RUclips comment hehe
How noticeable is it in real life? I've always read that most mechanical throttle bodies in the real world are practically linear even though their engine load to throttle position graph is technically concave down. Tuning, throttle adjustment, FI vs NA, and engine will determine the throttle response/linearity. Anecdote would be when auto-xing an F430 (most powerful car I have autox or tracked) the throttle "felt" perfectly linear. I'd be interested to see its engine load to throttle position graph. My E36 M3 only makes 230whp, so I'm more or less off throttle, or fully on throttle, making the linearity of the throttle irrelevant on track. Maybe since i've been driving it for so long I think my car is linear but I'm actually just so used to it lol. edit: adding that I'm genuinely curious. Not sure if what I wrote above came off as rude or anything. I don't have a lot of real world experience with different cars to know if I notice it haha. but what you say makes sense.
just switched from xbox to playstation, i haves Logitech g920 but will be switching to this wheel. 6 years!? That’s crazy, obviously you gotta look after it but i’m excited. Started sim racing about 2 years ago now my love is just reignited even more
@@Matt-di6nb Nope. I had a bit from the wheel but after taking it off and tightening all screws it was fine. But try to find some oil... something like oil for sewing machines or some hobby oil. And put a drop or two on the hinge
@@egj1975 Yeah I just put some Silicon spray down the side and it seems to be fine now. Only issue with squeaking now is the belt on the wheel. Squeaks when turning the wheel around center
@@Matt-di6nb There is a vid that shows you how to open up the steering shell then use a bit of silicone spray that's food safe to not harm plastic parts and spray it into a few places to stop that annoying sound when turning. Don't get silicone on the teeth of the belt for obvious reasons.
@@carpentarfriendly6925 Thats the thing. Id rather send it back if it worsens and wait weeks than open it myself and break it and then not be able to send it back
I bought a T300RS last year used from ebay. Was told it had 3 years of use but it looked almost new to me, except some wear on the plastic parts. The wheel feels great and is a big step up from g27 but it has a huge problem with the fan bearings going bad. It will lead to a loud noise and no cooling. Luckily its an easy fix to replace the fan and then the wheel is as good as new again. On the clamp part, i have noticed some wear too but most is down to rust and dirt clogging up the thread. I put some WD-40 on it from time to time and it seems to hold up well.
Hey pal, you can properly mount your wheel to the desk if you find yourself a nice piece of wood that will sit flush with the plastic that sticks out in the front part of the base. That way you can use the third mounting hole which is the bigger one. I hope that explanation makes sense.
Using the brake mod that comes with the pedals stops the brake pedal from doing that weird extra travel past 100%. After 4 years everything works like new. I had to open up the steering case after 4 years to add some food safe silicone lubricant to the motor connection to stop a very small tiny rubbing sound that started to annoy me. A little lubricant to the pedals every few years to stop any squeaks and that's it. Never had any heat issues. I only used the stock clamp mount that sits on a 36 inch corsair mat and no sliding at all and no up and down movent. I win lots of races on Iracing and first place in all rally games so for the price it was a good buy.
Really great review! My only note is that the hard mounting would probably be a little better if the center screw hole wasnt stripped, bc on a cockpit you could prolly get a screw to mount it in the middle for stabilization
excellent video! i had just bought one of these and your tips and such like in your updates and the video gave me some pre-wear mod ideas! thanks for taking your time to make this!
It took me a few trips to the hardware store. But one bolt and 3 washers. And my T150 mounts great. The clamp setup between the 150 and the 300 are the same. Gloves will help with sweat saturation.
I don't know if someone already mentioned it in the comments, but it helps to grease the screw, the bolt nut and also the "touching areas" where the metal touches with metal. It surely can help with the wear of the metal particles. (btw nice and honest review)
Thanks for the tip! I used a tiny bit of spark plug anti-seize (what I had laying around). You are correct that it really helps cut down the friction, especially on removal. My bolt wear is probably premature due to over cranking it :P
@@Carpythesharky Well, we learn from our mistakes :) I have the T80 and first after some time I noticed the wear on the screw and also where the both plastic components touch. (because on the T80 there is this stupid plastic component that tends to literally take off some of the plastic every time you screw the whole component together) So I figured out that it needs some grease, like from the garage or something that's gonna easy up the whole wear. Now I want to buy the T300 RS, so I know some customer info that You provided, thank you again, nice review :) And I know that right from start, I'm gonna grease the "problem parts" so it helps with the wear. This is a literally common method and honestly I don't know why it isn't atleast mentioned in some manual or warning or I don't know. Some people don't give a damn, but those us who have some "DIY brain cell" :D know that metal against metal - that''s a "no-no"
Thanks so much this type of content is the reason im on youtube.. just buying my first wheel, wanna get into rally sims. Everything points to the T300 RS as the only choice for a entry level wheel for sims. Dunno if i want rubber or leather wheel tho.
I have this same setup and after 3.5 yrs mine is still solid fundamentally but I did have to replace the $1 cooling fan that TM put in this wheel, replace the paddle hinges with 3D printed ones as the originals broke, and replace the potentiometer in the brake pedal. The reason I do not recommend them to anyone is that of say a dozen people I race regularly with that have this wheelbase, I'm the only one who has never had to return their wheelbase for repair or replacement.
Recently built a gaming pc and want a decent wheel. The T300 was top of my list, but after hearing you say the mounting is bad i feel that could be a dealbreaker for me. Damn it!
i have t300rs and 2 years ago the internal thread of the screw in the mounting clamp went bad and became useless so I bought wheel stand and it works well
Knowing what you know now about the stability/durability of the mounting set, would you recommend using all screwing options plus clamp plus Velcro to give longer useful life to the clamp screw , and well, the nuts and everything that worn out on your initial mounting set up?
I owned one for about a month until I ordered a CDL DD. I agree for the price you can’t beat the TS300. But the CSL DD side by side with this is night and day. The 5nm feel like it’s 2nm more than the TS. The 8nm feels like double the TS. And way cleaner. I see the CSL DD as twice the price worth, which it is after you factor in pedals. But again the TS300 is priced perfectly on its own. 0 regrets if you buy either. Just realize you get what you pay for with the CSL DD.
Great stuff. How's it holding on now since it should be almost a decade old? Or did you upgrade? I personally have wanted in the past like 7 years ago or something to get a g29 but I didn't. Now I'm gonna buy a moza r5 or r3, just gonna wait and see if that one is good for the price, else just go for the r5.
Dude I just bought one for 405 bucks. The normal RS GT one went out of stock so quickly, so i just went for this one. The price actually came down from 450 dollars cause I bought quite a while after the restock. In my country, Thrustmaster wheels sell like candy in a fair ground. Hopefully I get just as much usage as you did, especially since this is my first wheel
After some Upgrades over the years I'm still happy with mine. I've changed the noisy Fan, spend into a Sparco-Rally Rim (the "D-Pad" is a joke) cos I'm into Oval-iRacing and bought the T-LCM Pedals right on release which makes a huge different. To me, as a usual gamer, this is absolutely fine and I don't need any overhyped fancy other devices at the moment. After all, it is a toy, right? ;)
Thanks for sharing. I honestly haven't looked into upgrades for this wheel, which is sort of odd now that I think about it... I'll take a look at some of the stuff you've mentioned. Luckily my fan hasn't been that loud, but I think that's just luck based on a lot of things I read lol.
6 years with the same wheel. that's impressive. I just recently started playing Sim racing. with my VR headset and a used Logitech G25 that I picked up for about $50. after only 1 month I already replaced the wheel and the pedals with Fanatec GT DD Pro and CSL pedals. I must say the G25 was and are still a great wheel but going direct-drive and loadcell makes a very big difference!
Great review and it parallels my own views and experience after long term ownership. Had my T300RS for 6 years as well but mine was the basic model so the T3PA's were bought later and are a HUGE step up from the basic 2 pedal set, even without the brake mod. Having said that... The conical brake mod is extremely helpful once you get used to it. Set it up right and it allows you to establish better "muscle memory" control of the brakes, it's much easier to brake correctly based on foot pressure than it is just on foot/ankle position because as you know your heel WILL move about changing the angle of your foot and ankle making braking effectively a guessing game to a degree, this seriously hampers your confidence even if you don't KNOW it, you'll be more hesitant or braking earlier then you NEED to as a result. When in use the brake mod practically eliminates lock ups unless you make some form of mistake with your braking point. It also allows much better feeling around the end of travel giving me far, FAR more confidence when hard braking for an overtake, I KNOW when the brakes are gonna lock up based on foot pressure on the pedal plate. It even helps with trail braking, before I installed the mod I didn't have ANY confidence in using this technique. This also seriously speeds up the process when learning tracks, as I'm sure you're more than aware, the track gradient/camber and surface conditions significantly affects your braking ability, the conical mod enhances this because of the afore mentioned feel of pressure. You can see me making good use of this in a telemetry run I did recently for an AMS2 Time Trial discord group I'm a member of, I have full confidence to use full pressure when needed or adjust according to track conditions I mentioned above, yes there ARE times the fronts start to lock but it's ALWAYS recoverable. ruclips.net/video/TRSNZ6iDY7A/видео.html FWIW the time I set there was fast enough to be 3rd on the list for this car and track combo and I wasn't trying for a PB just to create the telemetry as it was requested by the TT group members to aid them in improving their times. My main point I guess is with this mod installed I'm regularly pushing top 10 with a £399 wheel versus guys with £1500+ full DD wheels and Loadcell pedal sets, not just keeping up but beating many of them. I still have a LOT to learn but it shows you don't NEED ultra expensive DD wheels to compete, but, the brakes are probably the area you'll gain the most when it comes to laptimes and consistency, my next upgrade will be the T-LCM's as soon as I can afford a set, from what friends have told me this is the BIGGEST step up in performance they've made, even the guys with DD wheels agree the brakes are the biggest step up in performance you'll see. Yes FFB increased fidelity IS a big help but no where NEAR as big a gain as ANY foot pressure based braking system My only issue with my wheel is the pedals DO have a tendency to gather dust in the mechanism (I too race in socks and they can transfer dust hair and foreign objects into the pedal base), they're easy enough to open and clean them out if needed but this is a common flaw of all potentiometer based pedals (My G27 set had the same problem)
this is amazing how the heck did this thing last 6 years? i was wondering if the quality reliability etc was good and its bulletproof, well thanks i wanted to get this wheel and keep it untill i got my drivers license and now i know it will last
What a great video!! 2 years old but still relevant to me. Just a side note I never understood “saturation” until your simple explanation of the throttle pedal travel. I am currently having a throttle problem now I’m going to try the 50% saturation. Hopefully that will taker care of it. I’m wondering if you still use the same wheel? I just subscribed to your channel ill check out your vids . Thanks!!!!
Thanks, i was looking to upgrade form my g29 because it.. really sucks. Too loud, too many noises and vibrations, not enough power which makes it bog down in certain situations (like drifting). BUT was i do appreciate on the g29 over the t300 is the genuine leather wrapping on the wheel itself. It feels nice and shouldnt wear down too fast.
01/05/2021 UPDATE!
Wheel still going strong, and I still stand by what I said in the video. Only thing is I'm a bit harsh with my negative adjectives (eg the movement in the mount really isn't as bad, and milk in tea isn't really as disgusting as I make it sound hehe). It's still super solid, and using larger diameter washers on the bottom mount bolts fixed virtually all play I was having before, thanks for the recommendation whoever it was :P (still using velcro at front). Just be careful and don't overtighten the screw when mounting the wheel. It doesn't need to be that tight to be solid, I probably tightened it too much each time and caused it to wear faster.
As far as pedal stuffs: I said increasing "saturation" to make the throttle more linear, which doesn't make sense obviously. I meant decrease saturation (to 0) and increase linearity (to 20-40%ish is how I like it). This is a personal preference thing, there's no one correct setting.
I mention maybe buying another wheel or different wheel in the video. That was fairly soon after the mounting system failed. Since finding the solution to the mounting situation, I now have no reasons to purchase another wheel. This will continue to be my main driver for hopefully years to come. Update video in 2024 lol.
OLD UPDATES:
Would just like to make an update as of the ERS changes in F1 2020: I don't think a button box is necessary anymore for F1 2020. Still useful for setup changes during practice and things like that, but not really needed for racing. For iRacing and rFactor it's still nice to have for all the extra controls, but once again not necessary.
would you recomedde to buy this wheel in 2021
Hey man just got one used from a friend and the base is fine. I heard that in some wheelbases the shaft of the motor becomes loose and loses it's calibration so some people told me to never go over 70% force feedback on the thrustmaster pannel, do you agree?
Oh my god. how has this wheel lasted for so damn long. that is literally beautiful
@@BeamngShorts damn
If the rotation sensor inside is a light shining through a small spoked wheel like the Logi G series, then blowing the unit out with some compressed air should cure your centering issue. The sensor counts the amount of spokes that break the beam so it knows how far and fast you are turning the wheel. Sometimes the spokes get clogged with dust and the sensor light cannot see through it which moves the centre point off. I'm upgrading to one of these after using Logi wheels for years. My T300 arrives on Friday and I can't wait. :)
Most honest and in depth review from a real gamer I've seen👌🏼
Thanks for the kind words :)
yes
Thank you for this. This is exactly what the internet was always supposed to be.
As a brit im not angry just dissapointed on your milk in tea opinions. Thanks for this review. I just bought mine and this helps build the hype
Just bought mine here too, boooy these things are expensive in my country. 750USD for a brazilian is a lot of money
@@eroncardoso7670 I feel bro I just paid 600 usd
I'm an American and prefer milk in hot tea
@@pastorczo13 i am Egyptian and i love tea in milk
@@eroncardoso7670 Jesus bruh, I would've bought it for you and sent it to you through the mail, that's an uncessary amount of money
"I've used this wheel in counter strike" im dead bro xD
Lol
You might have to adjust the dead zone 🤣
lol
Maybe you can fix it with increase Force Feedback to 0.8
lol
You can recalibrate the centre position by holding 3 buttons simultaneously on the wheel.
Instructions below for various T300 rims :)
Reconfiguring the racing wheel's center value
(If the racing wheel is slightly off-center in the Control Panel)
- If using a PS3/PS4, we recommend performing this procedure in the PS3/PS4 system's menu
(not in a game).
- If using a PC, we recommend performing this procedure via the Windows® Desktop (not in a
game), after exiting the Control Panel.
1) Connect the racing wheel's USB cable (on PS3/PS4 or on PC), then wait for the auto-
calibration phase to end.
2) Turn the racing wheel fully to the left (until you reach the stop).
3) Turn the racing wheel fully to the right (until you reach the stop).
4) Make sure that your racing wheel is perfectly centered ; while holding it in this position, press
the START, SELECT & MODE buttons simultaneously :
* PS & GT WHEEL = « SE + ST + MODE »
* F1 WHEEL = « BO + WET + MODE »
* 458 CHALLENGE GTE WHEEL = « SCROLL + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE »
* TM Leather 28 GT WHEEL = « RED BUTTON + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE »
* 599XX EVO 30 ALCANTARA® WHEEL = « RADIO + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE »
5) The racing wheel's LED briefly changes colour, then reverts to its initial colour.
This means that the wheel's center value has been reset and automatically saved to the device's
internal memory (you do not need to repeat the procedure every time you connect the racing
wheel); this applies to all of the wheels (PS, GT, F1, 458 GTE, etc.).
YOU ARE NOW READY TO RACE!
My tmx pro is slightly off-center what do you recommend
@@sirachacha1955 Follow the instructions above, but in step 4 your button combo to hold should be 'X, Y and Mode' for Xbox rim, or '10, 3 and Mode' for the PC rim (yellow, blue and Mode).
I've just found this info online, so if that doesn't work try further Googling or contact Thrustmaster Support.
@@sirachacha1955 hey, I am deciding between the tmx pro with a shifter or just the t300, what do you recommend?
@@zeusgames5701 I recommend looking at ebay or facebook marketplace for deals first and definitely getting the shifter. The shifter adds a whole different feel of immersion but the t300 will be more durable
@@sirachacha1955 I really need it to be durable, I am only 15 years old, so I dont want to dump alot of money into something that will break in a year. But, I also want the shifter. I was thinking about using the logi shifter with a Leo Bodnar adapter. But I'm not sure right now
This guys hand movements are so engaging I found myself rewinding because I got distracted.
These reviews are always so much better than the professional reviews.
where is the 9 year review?
Now 10 year
I've seen other reviews, including ones where the wheel doesn't seem to center, but people just... don't address that. Thanks for pointing it out and explaining it. Nice video!
This video was extremely helpful for someone looking for a new belt driven wheel and really helped to give an idea of the pros and cons from someone who has experienced it for 6 years, thank you.
Great real-world review, with LOTS of experience. Thanks for making so much effort to inform people. I have had the same wheel for two years, mounted on a Playseat Challenge. Any movement problems I have are related to the cockpit rather than the wheel, so I just haven't hit the issues that you point out yet. I'll keep that info in mind for the future. I am really glad to hear about the durability.
I ordered a t300rs gt yesterday and i found your vid. I am more comfortable about my choice now. Thanks for this great video :)
How is your wheel holding , I also want to buy..
@@amrit2292 It is a good wheel. I really liked it.
I just bought mine online... waiting for it to arrive lol
@@rayjaymor8754 Good to hear that. Wish you to enjoy it :)
Props for the time and depth on this video.
Totally agree..I have the T300RS GT and I am super impressed. Upgraded from the Logitech G29 which was a great starter wheel especially when on sale but moving up to the T300Rs was a huge improvement...Great review especially on the long term aspects of owning this wheel...Also I finally upgraded to the Thrustmaster T-LCM load cell pedals and again a great set of pedals, well made and just add that bit more to the sim experience.
Hi, i was thinking about upgrading from a G29 to a T300RS too.
After 2 years do you think the upgrade is worth it? or is it better to upgrade to a more expensive wheel?
“I can just stick it in there and slide it up and down…” sounds like a good time…. But seriously thanks for the in-depth review, very helpful and top work. Thanks mate.
I've had my thrustmaster the last past 4 years I love it can't get enough of it wouldn't trade it in for nothing haven't had a problem with it since I've gotten it.
I love the fact that he alwais said
Its not a con but you get use to it
Put respect on your name! I was looking to buy either this or the g923, but now that i know it can hold up to 6 years with minimal care, I’m sold!
exactly the same for me
Just picked mine up yesterday at a ridiculously low price (open box TX 458 from Micro Center that was practically unused, same base obviously), and I'm loving it so far! I don't have much to compare it to as it's my first sim wheel, but what a great piece of kit to start with. The pedals are definitely getting swapped ASAP though. My buddy has a Fanatec CSL and a Thrustmaster T150, this thing is whisper quiet compared to the latter.
Anyway great review man, keep doing what you're doing.
Great video, after using a G27 for around 11 years I'm upgrading soon to a T300, G27 died a few days back was a good wheel though took plenty of abuse!
Thank you so much for your input. It's not everyday that you find a review backed by such a long-term experience. I'm thinking of buying the T300RS GT Edition, so this review helped out alot! Thanks again!
No problem, glad I was able to help! I think you will love the GT edition, great choice.
Did you never think of getting the conical brake mod?
@@TomTomSGC It came in the box, in my opinion it doesn't add anything to the pedals. But you may find it useful
@@TomTomSGC Like Jaoa Gomes mentioned, it comes with the conical brake brake mod. However, like I mention in the video, I don't care for it and it removes all preciseness from the pedal. I assume it's meant to simulate a brake booster delete, but it's not at all like any track car with its brake booster removed that I've driven.
João Gomes hows ur t300?
How to re-center the wheel.
Make sure you do this outside of a game (ie at the menu etc)
1. Connect the racing wheel's USB cable (on PS3/PS4 or on PC), then wait for the auto- calibration phase to end.
2. Turn the racing wheel fully to the left (until you reach the stop).
3. Turn the racing wheel fully to the right (until you reach the stop).
4. Make sure that your racing wheel is perfectly centered ; while holding it in this position, press the START, SELECT & MODE buttons simultaneously :
• PS & GT WHEEL = « SE + ST + MODE »
• F1 WHEEL = « BO + WET + MODE »
• 458 CHALLENGE GTE WHEEL = « SCROLL + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE »
• TM Leather 28 GT WHEEL = « RED BUTTON + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE »
• 599XX EVO 30 ALCANTARA® WHEEL = « RADIO + RIGHT PADDLE Shifter + MODE
If my TX is off centered in game, I pause the game and center the wheel and then press the mode button, y, and x buttons at the same time. The mode button will flash once and save the setting.
It should be similar for the T300, try hitting mode, triangle, and square at the same time, then unpause your game and should be centered.
Also do this in your Thrustmaster utility software to help your start up calibration.
Thanks for the tip. Someone else linked a page that also may help. I will try both, tbh I kind of just forget about it lol.
I have tile under my desk setup and these pedals grip hard core. I also decided to still two small wholes at the front left and right corners and screwed it directly to the tile and yeah they don’t move, like at all lol..perfect
Good comprehensive review, Carpy. You covered everything well and in a rational order. I owned the same (except my pedals are metal) and agree with everything (mine overheated a couple of times - I turned the FFB down a little, I forget which sim but I had it higher than my other sims right from install..... and milky tea..yeuk. My throttle pedal seems acceptable ...
thank you, for sure getting the leather addition.
It's the sharing of what tea you like for me. Man of culture
getting this in my recommended after I copped my first ever desk mounted kit t300 rs gt with th8a shifter ! great review ! I hope i'll have alot of fun
I am so happy with mine; I got a second one for my SF 1000 F1 wheel and Playseat Formula Pro sim rig Plus the TLCM brake pedals also added to my F1 rig; I use my other T300 base with Alcanterra integral wheel for sim trucking and sim farming on my Playseat Evolution
I ordered Thrustmaster T300 RS GT + TH8A 2 months ago, damn satisfied with them, now i make RUclips channel haha.
How is your wheel holding , I also want to buy..
I have the same issue with the mounting clamp now but only 1 year of use. Your idea of drilling mounting holes into the desk is a brilliant idea. I'll try that before having to spend out on getting a racing frame to do that for me.
fan bearing just died in mine, hopefully $11 and 2 days from now she'll be back in action, almost 2 years of mostly daily use, the wheel itself is going strong, and the fan doesn't look too hard to replace
its 2021 and your videos helped me dodge a loginoise wheel gonna order thrustmaster t300 rs gt and shifter soon.
Just ordered mine
@@soslime7238 lemme know how it is im ordering mine soon
Honest, to the point and upbeat review, much appreciated - I think you just helped me make my mind up :)
same
This is a great video and I loved that you went into every detail. Long term usage reviews are rare and the most valuable. Definitely helped me make up my mind on the purchase of this wheel. Thank you! (Also definitely agree on the tea without milk.)
غرىىىتبلببارببؤء من
Thanks for the thorough review especially with real long-term durability experience.
Excellent down to earth review. Thank you very much for your effort and putting this video up!
I have had the wheel for a long time too, after replacing the fan and a pedal modification it has been great
This was the video I've been looking for. Thank you for break down everything. Now it is time for me to get one! I totally agree with you about the milk in the tea by the way...
Great long term review. For a pretty fanatic player pretty special to see you are still using the original peddles. It’s nice too hear build quality is years lasting.
Because of pandemic, winter coming and spending more time indoors I just bought a PS4. As a race fan will start racing too of course. After some research skipped the logi T29 and ordered the 300 GT. Hopefully arriving next week. Based on others reviews and to save some spending money I bought the alcantara wheel and the T3 Pro pedals for upgrade, however both used. Wheel stand on its way too. Off too a good start I hope... have fun and enjoy!
nice. it will be a blast at first. i first bought mine a while back and used it with my ps3 till granturismo6 went offline a few springs ago. then i played grid, and f1 and dirt 3 on ps3. gt6 nascar rooms were very fun and that’s not even my thing. turismo was the only good one.
i bought a Ps4 a few years back right after that and gt sport. it’s the only game i’ve played in a while. but i stopped after my ps plus ended and didn’t get back into it till recently. it’s fun even playing career but gt sport has great online and i miss that, so 8ll be getting ps plus soon again, and a few more racing games.
thinking of selling the slim ps4 for a pro....
im a year in on mine, reccomended as hell as a mid-budget option
Can you set it up with a shifter and e brake?
@@travis4308 several options for both! Thrustmaster makes a shifter called the TH8A that plugs directly into the servo that can change between sequential and H-pattern, and you can easily get a USB handbrake to plug in to your PC or Console (check for console support on the handbrake) and they even have shifters that work with USB as well if you dont like the TM one. I still have my T300 on my rig :)
One of the best reviews I’ve seen. Going to buy this wheel. Thank you for the review 👍
you can re-center your wheel by holding right paddle, Mode and Radio button , research to 2x check the buttons to use
Hi, thats the review i searched for! Thanks man, you helped me a lot. Now im sure, thats my first wheel to start with. Now im really hyped and fell in love with. Just waiting to have the right money for it. Great and enjoyable vid🔥✌🏼👍🏼
Did you get it yet?
@@travis4308 yes Sir. Its a realy great wheel, love the optic and the feel of the alcantara. Sure there are better options, but not for that price. Didnt test the g29 but im sure its way better. Feels great for that price
@@sschmidt3344 thank you. I just might have to get one as we.
Its settled for me. I was really pissed the price of this wheel jumped up to 600 bucks recently....not sure if crypto miners are buying these up now too for some nerdy reason, but I feel like i can't settle for the g900 series. If i throw money at sim racing, it will be at the wheel, and skimp on other stuff. Great review. And you are right about milk in Tea, I don't care if my mom is offended...lol
for 600 better get a csl dd ;)
you got the wheel ? worth the 600$ ? everything is so expensive here xd
dammm i got it for 300
Put a Heli-Coli in and you'll have the big mounting bolt back. Then you can use all 3 points and your Velcro.
Great video, thanks for the input!
Around 5:00 you say that the throttle is not linear. That's how it is in real cars as well, because the thrust pedal changes the angle of a circle in a pipe, if that makes any sense? Google it if you're interested, there are better explanations than a sentence in a RUclips comment hehe
How noticeable is it in real life? I've always read that most mechanical throttle bodies in the real world are practically linear even though their engine load to throttle position graph is technically concave down. Tuning, throttle adjustment, FI vs NA, and engine will determine the throttle response/linearity. Anecdote would be when auto-xing an F430 (most powerful car I have autox or tracked) the throttle "felt" perfectly linear. I'd be interested to see its engine load to throttle position graph.
My E36 M3 only makes 230whp, so I'm more or less off throttle, or fully on throttle, making the linearity of the throttle irrelevant on track. Maybe since i've been driving it for so long I think my car is linear but I'm actually just so used to it lol.
edit: adding that I'm genuinely curious. Not sure if what I wrote above came off as rude or anything. I don't have a lot of real world experience with different cars to know if I notice it haha. but what you say makes sense.
I wasn't even really interested, i've got a tx, so Im aware of stuff. But clicked anyway and stayed the whole ride. Really nice stuff! Subs to you!
just switched from xbox to playstation, i haves Logitech g920 but will be switching to this wheel. 6 years!? That’s crazy, obviously you gotta look after it but i’m excited. Started sim racing about 2 years ago now my love is just reignited even more
Just an extremely good review. Got everything I wanted to know, Thanks!
same here
This review is spot on. I have had mine for 18 months.
Did you experience any squeaking or Creaking from the Accelerator pedal? My sounds rubbish and really annoying.
@@Matt-di6nb Nope. I had a bit from the wheel but after taking it off and tightening all screws it was fine. But try to find some oil... something like oil for sewing machines or some hobby oil. And put a drop or two on the hinge
@@egj1975 Yeah I just put some Silicon spray down the side and it seems to be fine now. Only issue with squeaking now is the belt on the wheel. Squeaks when turning the wheel around center
@@Matt-di6nb There is a vid that shows you how to open up the steering shell then use a bit of silicone spray that's food safe to not harm plastic parts and spray it into a few places to stop that annoying sound when turning. Don't get silicone on the teeth of the belt for obvious reasons.
@@carpentarfriendly6925 Thats the thing. Id rather send it back if it worsens and wait weeks than open it myself and break it and then not be able to send it back
I bought a T300RS last year used from ebay. Was told it had 3 years of use but it looked almost new to me, except some wear on the plastic parts. The wheel feels great and is a big step up from g27 but it has a huge problem with the fan bearings going bad. It will lead to a loud noise and no cooling. Luckily its an easy fix to replace the fan and then the wheel is as good as new again.
On the clamp part, i have noticed some wear too but most is down to rust and dirt clogging up the thread. I put some WD-40 on it from time to time and it seems to hold up well.
Hey pal, you can properly mount your wheel to the desk if you find yourself a nice piece of wood that will sit flush with the plastic that sticks out in the front part of the base. That way you can use the third mounting hole which is the bigger one. I hope that explanation makes sense.
Rubber or silicone shelf liner is great for keeping things from moving.
Good recommendation, thanks!
Using the brake mod that comes with the pedals stops the brake pedal from doing that weird extra travel past 100%. After 4 years everything works like new. I had to open up the steering case after 4 years to add some food safe silicone lubricant to the motor connection to stop a very small tiny rubbing sound that started to annoy me. A little lubricant to the pedals every few years to stop any squeaks and that's it. Never had any heat issues. I only used the stock clamp mount that sits on a 36 inch corsair mat and no sliding at all and no up and down movent. I win lots of races on Iracing and first place in all rally games so for the price it was a good buy.
Thank you, I'm so happy that i bought this Setup!!!
What an insane review. Thank you for your service.
this is awsome video , im looking for upgrade my setup whit trhustmaster t300, and this is one of the honest videos what i see, thanks dude..
When I grow up I want to be just like you .
Really great review! My only note is that the hard mounting would probably be a little better if the center screw hole wasnt stripped, bc on a cockpit you could prolly get a screw to mount it in the middle for stabilization
lol gotta love the specific sock choice!
excellent video! i had just bought one of these and your tips and such like in your updates and the video gave me some pre-wear mod ideas! thanks for taking your time to make this!
Such as?
It took me a few trips to the hardware store. But one bolt and 3 washers. And my T150 mounts great. The clamp setup between the 150 and the 300 are the same. Gloves will help with sweat saturation.
But what I really like now is the addition on my TH8A shifter. A whole new world with a shifter.
I don't know if someone already mentioned it in the comments, but it helps to grease the screw, the bolt nut and also the "touching areas" where the metal touches with metal. It surely can help with the wear of the metal particles.
(btw nice and honest review)
Thanks for the tip! I used a tiny bit of spark plug anti-seize (what I had laying around). You are correct that it really helps cut down the friction, especially on removal. My bolt wear is probably premature due to over cranking it :P
@@Carpythesharky Well, we learn from our mistakes :)
I have the T80 and first after some time I noticed the wear on the screw and also where the both plastic components touch. (because on the T80 there is this stupid plastic component that tends to literally take off some of the plastic every time you screw the whole component together) So I figured out that it needs some grease, like from the garage or something that's gonna easy up the whole wear.
Now I want to buy the T300 RS, so I know some customer info that You provided, thank you again, nice review :) And I know that right from start, I'm gonna grease the "problem parts" so it helps with the wear. This is a literally common method and honestly I don't know why it isn't atleast mentioned in some manual or warning or I don't know.
Some people don't give a damn, but those us who have some "DIY brain cell" :D know that metal against metal - that''s a "no-no"
You deserve to have a 'K' in your subscriber count!
great video. no bullshit, honest review. this is what youtube is all about
Really great in depth. Thanks for the brake pedal tips. Will install the stop
Thanks so much this type of content is the reason im on youtube.. just buying my first wheel, wanna get into rally sims. Everything points to the T300 RS as the only choice for a entry level wheel for sims. Dunno if i want rubber or leather wheel tho.
I have this same setup and after 3.5 yrs mine is still solid fundamentally but I did have to replace the $1 cooling fan that TM put in this wheel, replace the paddle hinges with 3D printed ones as the originals broke, and replace the potentiometer in the brake pedal. The reason I do not recommend them to anyone is that of say a dozen people I race regularly with that have this wheelbase, I'm the only one who has never had to return their wheelbase for repair or replacement.
Dude, this is amazing video! As someone who's looking to buy this wheel you gave me a ton of useful info
Good point about the noise to people below. Not sure I want to piss the downstairs neighbors off... Might need to invest in some carpet.
Awesome review, so much experience and solutions, thank you so much!
great video, i am getting one tomorrow and i am even happier with my choice after watching your video
Recently built a gaming pc and want a decent wheel. The T300 was top of my list, but after hearing you say the mounting is bad i feel that could be a dealbreaker for me. Damn it!
If you maintain alcantara it is the best thing comfort plus killer looks👑💯
i have t300rs and 2 years ago the internal thread of the screw in the mounting clamp went bad and became useless so I bought wheel stand and it works well
Thanks so much for the recommendation , mines coming in on Monday!
Is it still working??
@@Fretzton yep
@@landon1stbase ty i just order mine and i have seen a lot of comments about it not working welkml after dime time, have a nice day :)
Knowing what you know now about the stability/durability of the mounting set, would you recommend using all screwing options plus clamp plus Velcro to give longer useful life to the clamp screw , and well, the nuts and everything that worn out on your initial mounting set up?
I owned one for about a month until I ordered a CDL DD.
I agree for the price you can’t beat the TS300. But the CSL DD side by side with this is night and day. The 5nm feel like it’s 2nm more than the TS.
The 8nm feels like double the TS. And way cleaner. I see the CSL DD as twice the price worth, which it is after you factor in pedals. But again the TS300 is priced perfectly on its own.
0 regrets if you buy either. Just realize you get what you pay for with the CSL DD.
I AM offended by the tea+milk part, but i must admit, this is a very nice review! Well done!
Great stuff. How's it holding on now since it should be almost a decade old? Or did you upgrade? I personally have wanted in the past like 7 years ago or something to get a g29 but I didn't. Now I'm gonna buy a moza r5 or r3, just gonna wait and see if that one is good for the price, else just go for the r5.
Dude I just bought one for 405 bucks. The normal RS GT one went out of stock so quickly, so i just went for this one. The price actually came down from 450 dollars cause I bought quite a while after the restock. In my country, Thrustmaster wheels sell like candy in a fair ground.
Hopefully I get just as much usage as you did, especially since this is my first wheel
How is your wheel
How is it man
racing without shoes for me hurts my heels after a while gotta find some thin shoes never had the problem your describing with the break pedal.
After some Upgrades over the years I'm still happy with mine. I've changed the noisy Fan, spend into a Sparco-Rally Rim (the "D-Pad" is a joke) cos I'm into Oval-iRacing and bought the T-LCM Pedals right on release which makes a huge different.
To me, as a usual gamer, this is absolutely fine and I don't need any overhyped fancy other devices at the moment. After all, it is a toy, right? ;)
Thanks for sharing. I honestly haven't looked into upgrades for this wheel, which is sort of odd now that I think about it... I'll take a look at some of the stuff you've mentioned. Luckily my fan hasn't been that loud, but I think that's just luck based on a lot of things I read lol.
12:54 T H I S .
I dont even give a f[BLOX] about the review anymore,THIS is what i needed to hear.
Leaning sim racing pedals against an ammo box. America !!!! 😂
How did you maintain it ?
6 years with the same wheel. that's impressive. I just recently started playing Sim racing. with my VR headset and a used Logitech G25 that I picked up for about $50. after only 1 month I already replaced the wheel and the pedals with Fanatec GT DD Pro and CSL pedals. I must say the G25 was and are still a great wheel but going direct-drive and loadcell makes a very big difference!
i have a vr already but no wheel yet, what games do u play with it
You need a wheelstand, I have a Marada v2 really solid stand
there are 2 things that makes you a psycho:
- driving competitive F1 on GT wheel
- milk in tea
Ok... you maintained balance...
Lol
100% agreed on the tea + milk
some one needs to buy this man a 2000 dollar fanatec custom setup.
Great review and it parallels my own views and experience after long term ownership. Had my T300RS for 6 years as well but mine was the basic model so the T3PA's were bought later and are a HUGE step up from the basic 2 pedal set, even without the brake mod.
Having said that... The conical brake mod is extremely helpful once you get used to it. Set it up right and it allows you to establish better "muscle memory" control of the brakes, it's much easier to brake correctly based on foot pressure than it is just on foot/ankle position because as you know your heel WILL move about changing the angle of your foot and ankle making braking effectively a guessing game to a degree, this seriously hampers your confidence even if you don't KNOW it, you'll be more hesitant or braking earlier then you NEED to as a result.
When in use the brake mod practically eliminates lock ups unless you make some form of mistake with your braking point. It also allows much better feeling around the end of travel giving me far, FAR more confidence when hard braking for an overtake, I KNOW when the brakes are gonna lock up based on foot pressure on the pedal plate.
It even helps with trail braking, before I installed the mod I didn't have ANY confidence in using this technique.
This also seriously speeds up the process when learning tracks, as I'm sure you're more than aware, the track gradient/camber and surface conditions significantly affects your braking ability, the conical mod enhances this because of the afore mentioned feel of pressure.
You can see me making good use of this in a telemetry run I did recently for an AMS2 Time Trial discord group I'm a member of, I have full confidence to use full pressure when needed or adjust according to track conditions I mentioned above, yes there ARE times the fronts start to lock but it's ALWAYS recoverable.
ruclips.net/video/TRSNZ6iDY7A/видео.html
FWIW the time I set there was fast enough to be 3rd on the list for this car and track combo and I wasn't trying for a PB just to create the telemetry as it was requested by the TT group members to aid them in improving their times.
My main point I guess is with this mod installed I'm regularly pushing top 10 with a £399 wheel versus guys with £1500+ full DD wheels and Loadcell pedal sets, not just keeping up but beating many of them. I still have a LOT to learn but it shows you don't NEED ultra expensive DD wheels to compete, but, the brakes are probably the area you'll gain the most when it comes to laptimes and consistency, my next upgrade will be the T-LCM's as soon as I can afford a set, from what friends have told me this is the BIGGEST step up in performance they've made, even the guys with DD wheels agree the brakes are the biggest step up in performance you'll see. Yes FFB increased fidelity IS a big help but no where NEAR as big a gain as ANY foot pressure based braking system
My only issue with my wheel is the pedals DO have a tendency to gather dust in the mechanism (I too race in socks and they can transfer dust hair and foreign objects into the pedal base), they're easy enough to open and clean them out if needed but this is a common flaw of all potentiometer based pedals (My G27 set had the same problem)
this is amazing how the heck did this thing last 6 years? i was wondering if the quality reliability etc was good and its bulletproof, well thanks i wanted to get this wheel and keep it untill i got my drivers license and now i know it will last
Did you get it? How is it now
Damn, 8 Years. You should be insane by now
What a great video!! 2 years old but still relevant to me. Just a side note I never understood “saturation” until your simple explanation of the throttle pedal travel. I am currently having a throttle problem now I’m going to try the 50% saturation. Hopefully that will taker care of it. I’m wondering if you still use the same wheel? I just subscribed to your channel ill check out your vids . Thanks!!!!
Thanks, i was looking to upgrade form my g29 because it.. really sucks. Too loud, too many noises and vibrations, not enough power which makes it bog down in certain situations (like drifting). BUT was i do appreciate on the g29 over the t300 is the genuine leather wrapping on the wheel itself. It feels nice and shouldnt wear down too fast.
DAMN those socks were RAD. I need me some e36 M cross fabric socks!
I am planning to buy this wheel on january 2022 . I hope it last 6 yrs as well
Very nice review my friend!