Thrustmaster TX T300 wheel - power supply repair/replacement
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2019
- Video is based on the information provided here:
www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/19...
Parts used:
1. Power supply (chose one):
a) ebay.to/2vcsiki -Lenovo OEM power supply (more expensive)
b) ebay.to/31GEndt - Lenovo generic power supply (less expensive)
2. Power jack (chose one):
a) ebay.to/379lgd9 - Lenovo power jack (no cables soldered)
b) ebay.to/2OELQV9 - Lenovo power jack (wires already soldered, can be easier to attach)
3. Tube fuse holder:
a) ebay.to/2OEjSZD
Tools I use: 
Хобби
Thank you! I bought a dead 'new but returned' T300RS GT off eBay for cheap and was able to resurrect it with a 24V 6A laptop PSU.
Using a 3A fuse currently. No issues so far.
THANK YOU FROM THE HEART....You are really a Gem....I didn't get the lenovo round jack connector even i got usb one But i followed your Instruction and did it...My TX Base is Working properly...From India.......Thank You again and again...
Thanks for the video just did this mod and it fixed my tx that died. Thanks so much again
It would be extremely helpful to have links to the parts that you ordered. Very helpful video, thank you for the upload!
Hi ! Just did a similar mod with an universal power supply for PC. 19V and 6,37A. I also added a 3A fuse. Everything is working fine. Did not test it in game yet though. I'll keep you guys updated.
@@z3mv It works perfectly. I use it nearly everyday.
@@pinguuu9883 Hey ! Do you know how much Watt it is ?
@@heydata My power supply is 90w !
@@pinguuu9883 Thank you ! are you in USA or Europe ? I’m just wondering if I should use a different fuse based on different continent voltage.
@@heydata I'm in France and it really works perfectly. I've been using the "upgraded" wheel for more than a year now and never had any further issue :)
I did this to my T150 with a 24v power supply, I followed same steps and I am not using a fuse. It seems that I can turn it on using usb without problem, I don’t necessarily have to plug in usb first. It is noticeableably faster and stronger. I didn’t go with 30v because I read on a forum that the wheel starts to reduce current which translates to less force feedback, at the cost of a faster rotation speed. 24v was a good middle ground between the two, I felt actually torque and speed increased.
I made the same thing according to your Guidelines it fucking works awesome 👌 thanks for the guidance man
useful video thanks
very useful
Its possible to bypass using the same psu, but only join back wires together? I think the plate is just a relay, that fires up when you connect the USD cable.
btw. nice Job and thx dude :)
you can add a big fan to better cool the engine
hi, you did very good job but i have a quiestion to you, we have a 4 pin jack to main board why did not you give 5v volt the other red and black cable you give only 20v , in this way only when we give 24v to board it will works or not ??
Hello. My Thrustmaster TX also no longer starts. I wanted to try this solution. However, I have a Dell power supply with other specifications. Can you check for me, please, does it work out? And which fuse should I use?
Model: 90W LA90PM111
INPUT: AC 100-240V ~ 1.5A
OUTPUT: DC 19.5V _ 4.62a
positive pole inside and negative outside.
Hi do you do repairs for the t300
legend can get a name for the fuse switch and laptop pin
I used this Lenovo power jack:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/706-53473-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338607166&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fitm%2FD93-FOR-IBM-Lenovo-Thinkpad-E420-E425-E520-AC-DC-Jack-Power-Charging-Socket-Port%2F183971135173%3Fhash%3Ditem2ad588bec5%3Ag%3AqmoAAOSw9mFWJQcn
You can also use a power jack that has some wires pre-soldered (I think it's safer depending of your experience). Also please make sure you have the round plug Lenovo AC adapter and not the newer square one. Here is the link for the power jack with pre-soldered cables:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/706-53473-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338607166&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fitm%2F1x-DC-power-Jack-Cable-For-IBM-Lenovo-ThinkPad-T410-T410i-T420-T430-T420I%2F264145574467%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%253AMEBIDX%253AIT%26_trksid%3Dp2057872.m2749.l2649
For the fuse holder/box I got these bellow. There are taking 5x20mm fuses:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/706-53473-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338607166&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fitm%2F10Pcs-Panel-Mount-Screw-Cap-Fuse-Holder-Case-for-Glass-Tube-Fuses-5x20mm%2F281638083089%3Fhash%3Ditem4192f01a11%3Ag%3AOZUAAOSwstxVDxW1
@@SymyonYY thanks and the switch what would you recommend? my t150 internal power supply blew i need to replace it because my retailer is giving me grief even though warranty hasn't ended.
@@Alpaca_FPS Unfortunately I am not familiar with the insides of the t150. I do have a link in the description leading to a forum where you may find some information.
Hi can you tell me if possible to connect a cable direct to infront 4 holes port?if yes can you tell me colours of cable
How many cables need
And where is the hole to connect?
I appreciate your help.
Will this work for a tmx base too?
Hello, maybe you can help me ... Please answer me ...
I own a Thrustmaster t300rs GT edition steering wheel but I misplaced my power supply. Impossible to find one on the market so I will have to make it. However since this is a 4-pin power supply there are 2 pins which I suppose should receive a voltage of 220 volts but I don't know which of the 4. And the other 2, if they are bridged, or .. .I dont know... ? Can you help me using a multimeter. Thank you.
I tried this, I'm getting 21.5v at the plug but once into the board I'm getting 15.5 what could be my issue?
Hi, one of the silver pins in the 4-pin power supply connector socket is not making contact unless I hold the inserted power cable at an angle. Is is possible to open up that power connector socket and re-solder those pins? I have the ts300 rs gt.
Hi.. I have spotted a cracked component on the board, and I need some help identifying what it is exactly. It has MCC 43A marked on it. Is there anyone here who may be able to help with finding a replacement part?
I have swapped psu but wheel still does not turns or any ideas what can be at fault?
Will this work with TS-PC Racer?
Hi, bought faulty wheel and did similar mod as yours and it worked fine, good tutorial. I have a guestion regarding fan, should it spin up as soon as i plug the usb or does it power on itself when it detects rising temeprature? Also did you notice any strength change in forcefeedback with this new power supply?
To zależy jak ustawisz :) Instrukcja się kłania... przycisk przy mode + ST jednoczesnie i przelaczasz miedzy trybami. Kilka linijek wyzej dodalem dopiero co posta apropo zasilania i moda jedynego slusznego - polecam;)
Hi in my one main board burn out any solution?
@@yomenart stm32 discovery board can run a thrustmaster wheel.
Hey there .. thanks for posting this video ... i have the same wheel with the same symptoms, and I was hoping your solution would fix it. I did everything exactly the way you showed with very similar components, and I verified that after soldering everything together, I was still getting 24v all the way to the power connector that plugs into the board .. however, when i did plug it in, I got a blue spark, and still no power to the wheel. I was pretty sure this was the order you did things in (your power supply was plugged in before you plugged it into the board) but unfortunately, my wheel has not come back to life. What is the next thing I should check? Thanks for any additional help you can provide!
I'm in the same boat, with the spark and all. I wish there was something to try.
did you find a solution? i have the same problem
Did you blow the inline fuse? Are you sure you got the polarity right? I’m going to do 2 soon and kinda nervous 😬
@@bobbyc2114 wow .. this was a while ago :) i never did get that wheel working, and have since moved to a TS-PC Racer, which i love ... good luck on your fix!
Good to hear you still like thrustmaster, got 1 TX and 1 T300 dead $70 a piece. I’m thinking you guys that got the spark and entirely fried your powersupplys. I’m going to check voltages with the new female adapter connected, so I’ll know which ends are positive and negative to solder.
scusa ma come mai non hai collegato anche gli altri 2 pin al morsetto bianco?
Buongiorno come mai non hai messo un alimentatore da 30volt? E come fa a funzionare con uno da 20volt?
Is the fuse 5x20 or 5x30?
Hi, in case I use a 20v charger with a 2amp current do you think i will need a fuse? From what i found throughout the internet the original power supply of the wheel needs 24 volts with 0.75 amp which is not a lot.
You tried it??? It works???
Need ur help, i follow all the steps and setting but it doesnt power up still. Not sure why? The ac adaptor that i use Model#: FMV-AC323 Laptop Charger
INPUT: 100-240V~ 1.35-0.6A, 50-60Hz
OUTPUT: 19V 5.27A 100W
Connecter size: Int. Diameter: 2.50mm
Ext. Diameter: 5.50mm
I know this is an old video now, but im sure my internal psu has gone, i got it fsulty from ebay the usb says descriptor fsult, the wheel foesnt turn or anything and if i test voltage from the psu that goes into the board i get zero volts, but i do get volage straight from the plug to ths TX, will be giving this a try tomorrow.
Good luck!
Did it fix it ?
Can anyone help me:
I have the issue that my tx doesn't steer to the left with full power anymore, but to the right everything seems fine. I don't know if it's a power supply problem or some circuit inside that's broken. I don't know what to do. :(
I hope I don't have to buy a new one.
quick question im no wire or election expect so my dell power supply have 3 wire i kmow white positive and black is negative but i got this green wire what should i do with it
This will work for the T300 to I guess? I have no power in mine now?
Any tips on where to start looking?
Yes T300 and TX have virtually the same base. Only difference I believe is 1080 degrees on T300 vs 900 on TX. And one is PS compatible, the other is Xbox. Check the video, it shows where usually things go wrong
so what is the original wattage of the T300 from the factory? I ordered the exact same one in the vid (20v, 4.5A) just because it worked and people with 24v 5 or 6A happen to not be working
How did yours turn out? I’m going to do a TX and T300
I saw a different video that was like this but they kept the same power supply, The problem was with the little board that detects USB connectivity, user simply bypassed the USB detection
It depends, my PS was dead. Also you should really understand why that board went bad in the first place. There is a video where the author replaces something on the board, can't recall what was it, but he checked the circuit, replaced the bad part and made it the way it was originally, without bypassing anything. So it depends. One good thing about going external is heat from the PS is not heating the base interior anymore.
@@SymyonYY my wheel is dead, but have noted when I jumped the Triac that I have 5v at the usb input to motherboard connection and 30v on same connector from the existing power supply. Were you getting this as well, or were you reading 0v at the motherboard input prior to changing the PSU? Perhaps I have a motherboard problem? There's no lights at the front or motor reaction when plugged in at power and USB
Hi there. Do you think it is possible to change the power socket to a normal 3 pin? I lost the original cable and it is not possible to order one and have it delivered. Could be cool you making a video on that :)
I just found someone Amazon for like six bucks
@@apexshaver7301 link please ?
Hi does the usb lead need to be plugged into the pc/Xbox for the base to receive power?
For the original setup, before the mod, yes. After, no.
Hey! Do you recall what the signs of a failing PSU were? My wheel base has a flickering red light, a loud whine and produces an awful sound when turning (also very hard to turn). Do you think that's the PSU? If so, how difficult is the soldering on this fix, for someone with no prior experience soldering electronics?
I don't think is the PSU, but can't tell for sure. It is not hard to solder to be honest, a 5 min youtube video is enough
@@SymyonYY yeah, I'm starting to think it's more of an issue with the motor. It's out of warranty and they're asking me $180 USD + shipping to repair it, which is close to the price of a new base. I don't think I'll ever purchase a TM product again. Thanks for the quick reply!
I cut the end off a laptop charger that was 20v 1.5A and connected it directly to test if this would work for me and it powered on. I've now got a dc in for a 20v 4.6A laptop charger with the fuse and now it no longer works. The voltage gets to the plug but no sign of life, did I kill the board?
I've pulled the board out and there's 3 non smd capacitors that have no continuity across them, would replacing just those maybe fix my problem?
@@Twxii No continuity means the component is open. Continuity between pos and neg would mean the capacitor has a short - This is bad. The former is good. Proper troubleshooting of electrolytic capacitors requires an ESR meter, which you can buy fairly cheaply nowadays. I suggest you research troubleshooting electronics further before you mess around with any power supplies.
Have solved your problem with your wheel ?
Hi my thrustmaster is died for this problem mcc43a part where i casn find it
Same.. Did you find it?
Im looking for a powersupply but I see differences in amps. You use a 4.5A charger. Is there a minimum ampares the charger needs to have?
The charger im about to buy:
19,5V
3.34a
65 Watt
3.3 amps is a little low. Even 4.5 amps, I used there is on the low side but it worked well. The wheel base can go little higher sometimes (higher than 6 amp) and it is better to have more than less. I'll say look for 4.5 amps and up.
Did this and can't get it to work still now power or motion any ideas?
Check if you get power coming to the board, if it doesn't, then you'll have to see why (bad connection, bad AC adapter ...), but if you get power on the board but wheel still dead, then you can have some other issues which is hard to debug remotely, but I believe other issues can be burned MOSFETs or your motor. You can inspect the main board to see if you see anything burned.
Hello, I the throttle and clutch of my T300 stopped working. Brake works perfectly. Tried multiple pedals also Pedals work perfect on another T300 base.
I have replaced the t.rj12 to 6 pin connector but the problem stays the same.
Any ideas?
Connect it directly to your PC via an arduino maybe? Requires some work, but not much than 2-3 hours (a d an Arduino off course). As for what is wrong with the Base, can't tell unfortunately.
My T300 Ferrrari edition used to abruptly turn hard left in-game (iRacing) and power off out of no where. Then it turns on after 15-30 minutes. This time it didnt turn back on at all. Would you know what might have caused this?
Unfortunately I'm not familiar with this issue
I'm thinking of trying this I'm in the UK will the power supply be the same?
Yes you can use the same power supply or any other that has similar specs output wise. What is different in the UK or any other part of the world is the input. But if you use a laptop power supply, you don't have to worry about the current input as they are made for travel and will accept anything in the range of 100v to 240v.
@@SymyonYY thank you very much. Just purchased a replacement wheel will also try this
I fixed mine with a firmware update,,, perfect 100%
Hey there, I love your tutorial but I can't get it to work :(
My laptop psu is 19 V 4.74 A 90W
I do it just like you, I also get 19V through the cables when testing. If I plug it in though nothing happens, only reaction I can get is sparks. I am not uskng a fuse. The original power supply was smelling burnt and was also shooting sparks when plugged in...
What else could be wrong with my wheel?
I have the same problem without sparks tho hope someone will help with advice
My son is looking at a used wheel with a bad power supply. I'm comfortable doing everything in this video, but I have a couple questions:
I didn't follow what you were talking about with the USB power from the original power supply. Is there a USB port on the wheel that is being abandoned?
Your power specs appear to be different from what we're being told the wheel uses. Are there different sub-models of that same product? We're told it's 25v, 2A, 50W. That's still a pretty standard laptop power supply, but I wanted to get clarification.
You still use the wheels USB port, but the way it works from the factory, is the power is not getting delivered until the usb is connected. So you need both the USB and the power plug connected (obviously) to get power to the wheel. After the mod, that is not the case, power is getting delivered to the wheel no matter if the usb is connected or not. So it's more of a power saving I guess, if you disconnect the wheel all the time after you're done, it doesn't matter to you, if you leave it plugged in, just FYI that the power is delivered to the wheel.
As for power supply, you can play with those values a little, so yes I think all TX/T300 are coming with the same specs power supply (don't quote me on that), mine I believe had 24v, but 19v-20v are fine too. Some users experiment and add a 30v to it to 'overclock' the wheel so it'll get a faster response (with some downsides), but I will not recommend that if you don't know what you're doing. The power intensity (2A) can be higher as well, that is basically how much power your supply can provide if needed, but it does nothing if you go overboard about it, if it's lower, that is not good as it might not be enough on high intensity use (high torque FFB settings etc). And the electrical Power (50W) is just 25V * 2A = 50W.
I have a link under description if you want to jump into the rabbit whole and find more info.
Also just FYI, a wheel that is not functional as it doesn't turn on, doesn't necessarily mean the Power Supply burned, sometimes there are PCB problems or something else, but AFAIK the power supply are most common problems. Hope it helps. Cheers!
I need help. Do you have an email where I can send you photos?
Hi I need help , my wheel cuts out , like u wanted to leave the race , but does not do this all the time, I have know idea if it's my wheel or something to do with my pedals, Thx
Does it do that right away or you play normal for a while? Also not sure what your pedals will have to do with that, but in any case you can as well connect your wheel without the pedals and it should work. That way you can tell out a faulty pedals. But like I said, I don't think pedals will have anything to do with that.
@@SymyonYY it seems to do it whenever it feels like it,,, very strange, I was in a league race last night when it happened to be, it went out like u were leaving the room, but I started hitting all the buttons trying to get back into the room finally get did, ofcourse I was up against the wall then , yes like u say I don't think it's the pedals I was just grasping at anything I could think of,,, have you ever heard of this before or anyone else had this problem ?
@@chrisdettanascar9264 Well I had a similar-ish problem where my wheel would just shut off at random times, and the reason for that was the power supply. It was dead, unable to provide current or something I don't remember (it was like over an year ago). I happened to do a similar mod with a laptop power supply and the wheel has been working perfectly, 1000+ hours of racing with 0 issues.
I have the same problem, my wheel works fine for 10-15 minutes and then disconnects. I pull out the usb cable and reinsert it, then the wheel starts working again, works fine for 2 or 3 minutes and dies again. The time running decreases every time I repeat the operation. I'll try to do the laptop psu trick tomorrow... wish me luck hahaha
@@todomalamente firmware update, fixed mine
Is there any way I can talk to you on Facebook ?
Hi, unfortunately I am not using Facebook very often. What is the reason if I may ask?
The links don't work just so you know.
Thank you for letting me know
It s not reality to open base !! It s simply impossible to open on oneshot
hello help m epls are u there
You dont need to to all of tihs is you just replace the FOD4216 Triac. The psu if not blown is just on standby as the triac activates when plugged into a USB port. Witout that it sits in standby giving the impression of it being dead
Watch ruclips.net/video/cbTY9QriLdo/видео.html for a proper way of fixing your t300rs
Thank you Nazim for mentioning that. If you check the video starting at 8:10 I mentioned exactly that and how to test if your triac is bad. In my case, the PSU was bad, so I had to do the entire replacement. Replacing a triac is a lot easier indeed
Ah I thought in the video you only mentioned the one triac and not the other one that tends to fail. Doing the first bypass will not turn on the wheel. But thanks for your response 👍🏽
I tried following the steps in that video, was measuring 5v when usb was connected but after I've soldered the two pins and jumped the Triac I'm still getting nothing with power on and usb connected. So assuming I have a dead PSU and need to replace per this mod
My power cable is gone and I need to mod my T300 wheel to use another cable with an EU wall socket. Is this doable for a know nothing about electricity person?
There are no more cables around to buy. Thrustmaster used a unique cable.
Be careful with US to EU cable change, you go from 110V to 220-230V. so the fact you didn't have the cable might actually saved you wheel from burning. Only using an electrical socket adapter US to EU, while keeping the original US cable wouldn't work.
Also, as I remember US and EU cables doesn't have only a different electrical plug, they also differ with their actual connections into the wheel. Even if they physically look the same, the wires inside have different scheme for connecting. Like some holes in US cable (wheel side plug) have no metal connector while EU has it and vice-versa. I strongly suggest to visit some forums that have more info about it, before attempting connecting your US wheel to a EU wall socket, just to make sure you'll do no damage to it. As for the actual power supply inside the wheel, unfortunately I don't remember now if the original one is capable of switching from 110 and 230 (like a laptop one would), like I said look at the forums, link in the description should give you a head start, just to be safe. In anycase, the mod shown in the video should work if you decide to go that route and ditch the original power supply all together.
did you ever get it working? I have the same problem with a US Thrustmaster tx wheelbase in the EU (Italy)
@@isrcinimatic587 Changing only cables from US to EU or vice-versa will not work. But doing the mod in the video will.
@@isrcinimatic587 I'll add to my answer above. I personally didn't try changing the cables US/EU or EU/US, but I know the cables have different internal connection structure for 110V or 220V, the 4-plug connector that goes into the base. So your cable, depending of the region will be using different contacts from those 4 to provide energy, even if on the exterior they are the same. Also the original power supply has imprinted on the casing only one volt range that it's suppose to work with, that makes me assume it will not work with the other. However, that being said, some folks have reported that those different cables are setting voltage for the power supply and that indeed works on 110v even if it's a 240v imprinted on the casing, and vice-versa. I would be VERY CAREFULL attempting that experiment though and will NOT RECOMMEND it unless you know what you're doing. And chances are, that a laptop charger, to do the mod, will cost you less than finding a local region cable for the TX/T300.
You're call.
Didn't work. used the same power supply, same fuse (in amps as well). Used a multimeter to measure the output of the old power supply and didn't show any voltage. Did everything in this video to the letter, checked that the voltages and amps are running in the new setup (multimeter showed that the correct output 20v but 0.5 amps for some reason). when plugged in, i got a blue spark and the wheel wont light up.
unscrewed the bottom part to see of there any burned mosfets and/or defected capacitors. everything seemed fine
Was you able to solve your problem?