Some additional notes on the RMA process for warranty repair since somebody asked me about it or more specifically they wanted to know what was wrong with the T300 wheel bases while they were making noises in the video clips I included in my video. I don’t have any information on what was happening inside the T300 wheel bases that caused them to make noise. It would be safe to assume that Thrustmaster Support might provide some details via email on the errors occurring inside the wheel base once the RMA process has been completed but that isn’t something they offer. As far as I am aware the process goes that Thrustmaster Support will review the details shared by the end user and then arrange the RMA if required and the actual RMA process, once the wheel base arrives at the service centre is handled by a separate team. Once the wheel base arrives at the service centre, for example for Europe in France, the RMA technicians will test the wheel base and once completed will ship it back to the user. If I recall correctly the RMA team will send an email to the end user once they have received a wheel base and will then send a follow-up email once it has been shipped back to the end user. I noted that their emails, for example from the RMA team in France were malformed a little and so ended up in my email junk folder to that is something to watch out for. It might also be useful to note that they may request an RMA of a wheel base up to 3 times if necessary before they will offer to send the user a new replacement wheel base. Of course if a wheel base is considered to be unrepairable the first time it is sent for RMA they most likely would offer to send a replacement base. In my case, and as I described in the video my second T300 wheel base developed another issue after it had already gone through the RMA process. And once an RMA had been requested a second time for the same wheel base I spoke with the retailer who then requested the RMA details which assisted in confirming that there was another issue occurring. And the retailer then agreed to take back the T300 set and replace it with a new one. Which is the set I am currently using. The warranty offered by retailers will of course differ by country and region so check what the rules are in your region when buying a new sim racing wheel which will maybe assist in getting an issues resolved should you experience any issues.
Good video and important consumer experience data here. But bro, you don't need to include MINUTES of the noises, we know what you meant after 2 seconds or so, no need to include the other 30 of the clip..
@@GreenJEntertainment9 then fucking skip? You mentally challenged? It’s GREAT documentation that could also reinforce other buyers cases with returns. Sorry your billions per minute time was wasted on a RUclips video.
When I bought T300RS for the first time back in 2014 and (BTW I also own wheel stand pro v2 which has never caused any issue and it's like a tank when it comes to stability if properly tightened even at 100% FFB.) The wheelbase came faulty and started making weird noises and movements by itself. Fortunate enough, I was able to sense it in the first place. I shipped it back ASAP hoping to get a better replacement. The worst part is sometimes you'd easily run out of that 15/30 days of the trial period even before you can figure out that something is wrong, and then you're stuck with nothing but a repair. However, I got a replacement and it's been running great as of today so no complaints there *touch-wood*. IMO I felt like I got a refurbished or returned item just so the retail shop could push it out of their inventory. I might be wrong but it should have worked just fine if that wasn't the case. Unfortunately, sometimes that's one thing you can never know 'for sure' from online shopping.
From what I've been told, or as far as I can tell any device sent back to Thrustmaster if needed to be replaced would be replaced with a new unit or a retailer would send it back to the local distributor. I don't think there's any point for either side sending a damaged or refurbished unit as a replacement. I don't doubt what you say and errors occur but any replacement should be new. Not defending Thrustmaster just my thoughts 😁
Great video. I got myself a T300rs on June last year and have been playing GT7 and F1. I´ve been facing two issues: one is the FFB geting week, it feels like I lost grip, I have to put the FFB really low, almost unnouticable to make it run withou any other overheat problem. The second problem started a few weeks ago, after a few minutes of playing the engine starts to do a loud and weid noise. I turn off my game everytime this happens and it´s so annyoing. I will try to contact the support team but honestly I don´t want a new one, I would like to get a refund cause I´m so dissapointed with this wheel. I had a Logitech G27 back in the past and never had any problem.
The sounds of the first two sets broke my heart but the third one just got me laughing. Man you've had some bad luck with those. Hopefully the current set lasts a bit longer. Good tips!
Hi @Davy Jones . Well, what can I tell you. You and everyone in the comment section has the right to call me an idiot. I've purchased a T300 and noticed that it generates a lot of noise. Mostly wheel base squeeking when turning the wheel, weird, obnoviously loud fan noise and pedal noise. Because I was used to how my old G25 behaved, I've ignored it. Technically the wheel works fine and usually I drive very late at night which means that I always use some 5.1 headphones. After seeing your vid, I'm quite worried, like did I make the right choice. I'm about 1500km away from Paris. That means quite a hassle if I ever want to send it to any sort of repair service. Besides, I'm out of warranty. Should I consider selling this puppy soon and saving for something more reliable like a T500RS or going full-frenzy on a Fanatec?
Difficult to say... If the noise doesn't bother you then maybe just keep using the base, since it's out of warranty anyway. You could send it for repair but of course they'll charge your for it, €150 minimum I think. They will say we charge more maybe if its a bigger problem etc but it sounds like the regular noise issue. You could indeed try to sell it and go for a Fanatec, hard to say, of course if you do sell it and the buyer notices something then you would have a problem. Again hard to say.
Hey guys. I bought used T300 currently out of warranty. Everything worked fine, until the click problem occured (second problem in the video). While changing the direction of steering something pops and I can feel a free movement of the steering wheel. Any Ideas what could it be?
can you post a video of it in action? You can still RMA it if its out of warranty, Thrustmaster will just charge you for repairing it. I have a T300 base sitting in a box here that I'll have to pay to have repaired at some point.
Your squeaking issue is super easy to fix, just grease the gearing and some other contact places that are poorly greased, everything from TM is poorly greased, my peds started squeaming after 3 days of use, base started 5 days of use. After greasing everything i made belts littlebit stronger, now everything is more responsive and smooth, which is perfect :)
My steering wheel's light won't turned on even though the cable power is on (the blue light is on). What should i do? Do you have the same issue? Please answer me asap
I have a t300rs base and I've never turned the wheel when I wasn't supposed to (whenever I was not driving) Maybe thats your problem bro or at least where it's coming from....just a thought. I wouldn't force your wheel to turn if you feel like it doesn't want to go that way other than for ffb reasons obviously.
Hello, can please help me.. I got this wheel and upon boot up it auto-calibrates and i find the wheel too heavy (to turn 360deg needs 2 hands)... so I USB into my PC and launch TM control panel app, which detects the wheel fine... I close it without changing anything, and wheel become lighter significantly.... but the moment I disconnect from USB port of PC and reconnect it (or connect to PS4), it auto-calibrate again and become very heavy again....
Jheeeez you've had as much luck as me, I've had thrustmaster support send me a PCB for a shifter, I've sent my wheel base back to them, but then it was fine for q4 months. Since upgraded to a tsxw, but I've found it's best soon as I get the wheel new is run the hell out of it for several hours like 6 7 hours on hight ffb settings, then if it's OK I turn the ffb down to what I have it on which is 55% ingame, please note the strength of your ffb will determine how long your wheel lasts 100% true fact, Unless you have a direct drive wheel, but I feel it's best to send the wheel to tm in France and let them fix it because it seems most new wheels have faults, but I do actually recommend thrustmaster long as you look after the wheel it's like a car, you don't go round trashing it everywhere do you you clean look after it just the same as a ffb wheel in my eyes,
My T300 usually lasts around 30-40 mins before FFB goes and when I plug it back in it will not centre and has no FFB, each time I have to plug into pc and re-calibrate it. I have had the wheel for just over 2 years but it will be lucky if it has had 100 hours on it. Spoke with thrustmaster and they want £120 to fix it even though it is a common fault, they even admit certain games are worse than others for causing the fault. Knowing this should they should have recalled them yet they are still selling T300 with known issues, its just damaging what is left of their reputation
They won't do anything to help anyone particularly if it's out of warranty. My T300 base also requires a paid RMA repair and it's only 1 year old. It's a retailer replacement and based on warranty of original purchase it's not covered etc. They have a strict policy and they don't bend or they'd be run out of business with repairs. Maybe the quality to T300/TX bases have improved over time, I don't know. Some people have issues some don't. Definitely having the power supply inside the unit seems to be an issue, it's external for the TS-PC racer line (T-GT is the same) and which seems to be a better design. More rigid mechanism as well but you get the point. It's f!ckin depressing all these T300 failures 😐
I think most of the issue is that a lot of people don't understood that you have to set the FFB correctly to the game. Because you can overheat or break the base if you set it wrong and it is clipping. That's why you have people who can break 4 basis during one month... Fine-tuning is necessary. It is not plug and play(without thinking) device ;)
wouldn't worry I have had mines just under two years quite hard use on dirt rally ac drifting and racing in general for it to have a similiar issues seems like it is something he was doing I used the clamp and its fine he either done something or was running it at 100% ffb or sumin as all his wheels had a similar sounds seems like he was either doing something to cause this
Doesnt matter but I never ran FFB at 100% and had the wheel base mounted on a wheel stand which is not much different from clamping it. I've said before that many, like you, never had any issues while many of us did, it's just how it goes with T300 bases I reckon...
@@DavyJonesSimRacing maybe bad batch or something I went through 4 g29s on RMAs before the t300 I wouldn't touch logitech now g29 is just a modified DF GT inside the bas and the peddles are what mines had issues with flickering throttle the thurstmaster from my point of view has been much better but do reckong they have bad batchs
My T300 Ferrrari edition used to abruptly turn hard left in-game (iRacing) and power off out of no where. Then it turns on after 15-30 minutes. This time it didnt turn back on at all. Would you know what might have caused this?
Should be called trashmaster. Had 4 tx servo bases in 1 month. All had some problem and 599 rim starts to get lose and make noise. Returned it all to step up to fanatec for an extra $125 with tax and shipping so a way better deal and quality.
Thanks for this! Just got T248 and the Windows software for calibration just crashes, now they are making me go through a long process to test in games, upload pics, it is a week old so if they mess me about I will just return it to the retailer, looking on reddit TMs customer service seems lack luster
Issue im seeing is that your had the spring and Damper set 100 spring makes the wheel heaver even at only 75% you prolly burnt the motor out or over stressed it all 3 times based on my experience with the T300RS
I bought a brand new TS XW sparco package 3 months ago. It has just broken, and it is going to take at least a month for me to send it to their Canadian facility for repair and get it back. I'm REALLY not impressed with this company. As soon as I get it back I'm considering selling every TM product I have and just waiting for an opportunity to find a Fanatec system. If anyone is considering a TM product, don't go through with it! You should either get the budget friendly Logitec, or just save up to get a Fanatec or Sim Magic system.
Can you please please help me out .. I just bought the Thrustmaster T300 Alcantara, and playing Gran Turismo 7 on PS5 with it . Problem Is that sooner or later it's like the Wheel losses it's feedback. I'll play a few Races n it's simply amazing, I feel each turn , each bump , each curb and especially when u or someone bumps u .. But after a couple of laps or in the next race it's like there's nothing happening. Wheel just has no resistance when turning , no feedback at all when driving over curbs and hitting something or someone..... What is this ?? Why is this happening?? Please any advice?? This is my first Wheel and when it's works it's amazing , I couldn't be happier, but always the same thing happens. Lap 1 and 2 will be with great feedback and u feel everything , but then laps 3 , 4 n 5 it's like it shuts down ... Once race it's all good , next nothing
Sorry not really sure, try connecting it to a computer and update the firmware if necessary support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t300ferrarialcantara-en/
@@DavyJonesSimRacing Thanks for such a quick reply, appreciate it. Yeah so I did some looking around, and seems alot of ppl using this and even the Gran Turismo DD Wheel are having similar issues. They say it's the the Game itself ( Gran Turismo 7) no feedback on curbs , bumps and when hitting something... But I have not plugged it into my PC , so should I do that regardless with a new wheel ? Is it recommended?? Thanks again , I'll Sub for sure :)
You can always check it. If there is a software update it will most likely be to support connectivity of a new product like their upgraded pedal set, so there may not be any improvements to the performance of the wheel but no harm to check for an update anyway...
If you mean the T300? Yes I would. I think that I was perhaps just unlucky or the quality has improved since the third T300 base appears to be okay. If you could afford it I would look at the Thrustmaster TS-PC racer as well as the base for that set includes some improvements. Note the TS-PC set doesn't come with pedals and neither is it sold as a separate base unit as far as I am aware. But it is good to be aware of it
The T300 alcantare edition is about the max I'm willing to spend on my first wheel. I was thinking to buy a fanatec CSL Elite with the loadcell pedals but that's a bit too expensive and I'm not sure if I will like racing with a wheel. So it would be stupid to invest a lot of money in something you won't use after a couple months. And the TS-PC comes close to the entry direct drive wheels. I will probably start with this wheel and upgrade to a direct drive when it's a bit cheaper. I just heard that people have lots of problems with the t300 from dead psu's to broken moters and squeaking. I don't want to be dealing with support all the time
Btw the issue you had is caused by the little tension wheel that's scratching agianst the plastic. Thrustmaster used too little grease or it becomes dry after a few months. I found a video on how to fix it yourself, not sure if this voids the warranty though. ruclips.net/video/Di5i0YXMi6Q/видео.html
That was a very useful video thanks. I don't think a TS-PC comes close to an entry-level direct drive set, if such a thing exists, maybe you mean the Feel VR thing. Anyway a different system. If this is to be your first wheel and you say "I'm not sure if I will like racing with a wheel" I would instead perhaps look at getting a used Logitech Driving Force GT to see if you like using a wheel and then go from there. Which is what I did.
Does anyone know with thrustmaster warranty do you have to ship the product back and then they send you a new one? Because it took about 3 weeks to be delivered
I think it depends on the cost of repair needed. If you are under warranty period you request RMA and they will pay for you to ship it and them sending it back. In most cases they will repair the device if they can or if it's beyond repair they will just send you a new one...
Well, I've had it for some months now and the only issue initially has been wheel not returning to perfect center after calibration (sometimes overshooting by quite significant margin) but now there's definitely a problem with a motor. I plugged it in one day and ffb just felt wrong, not smooth and any bump in the road seemed to cause clipping. Question is, how do I record a video about that? The calibration thing was easy to record and it also persisted despite following instructions to recenter the wheel. Funny. First it took a while to get used to ffb and now it feels shit all of a sudden.
Have you considered returning to retailer or an RMA? If RMA then Thrustmaster will want to see evidence of a problem of some sort. So you you would mount the base using the included clamp and take a video of it in operation while the issue is occuring.
Logitech or Fanatec or get a Thrustmaster TS-PC based unit which price wise is up there with Fanatec anyway... TS-PC has stronger mechanism, cooling and power supply.
No but there is a version of it that does. I think its called the T-GT. Basically it has the same internals as a TS-PC and is for PS4 & PC and comes with pedals. Was listed as Thrustmaster's most expensive set ever I think, the price has maybe come down though. There are several reviews of it available
@@DavyJonesSimRacing Yes it could be that one then, they call it the T700 and was made for GT Sport. Video on here somewhere of Lewis Hamilton having a go. Yes it's very pricey and simracingirl on here done a review on it vs the Fanetic csl elite. Silly money though.
I was close to buy the t300 but watching this video and listen about dealer near in my place I've just given up. In Brazil we dont have official dealer. If I have any problem issue w/ the wheel I can't do nothing to repair. I will have to get the logitech g923 cause at least we have dealer :/ Very thanks to the video.
Logitech G series and Thrustmaster T series are perhaps similar given that they are belt and gear driven and prices will perhaps also be similar. I would look at the most recent reviews that you can find and whatever model you pick make sure there is a way to return it for refund or replacement locally should you have any issues. Good luck!!
I have just upgraded to T300 from G29... BIG difference, but i had to teardown my T300 after first 2 minutes of use and modify the factory project in 3 places xD That squeaking noise is one of the dumb engineering of this wheel but it's very easy to fix Clicking noise is the effect of poor manufacturing of the gears
Hi, i have a question, should i buy a T300 RS, so far it seems it has a also bad reputation as a G29, i had 4 of those which made squeeling noises when turned left, i gave up on the Logitech so i am considering to buy a T300, now should i buy it or will it be also a Pain in the back?
I originally owned an old Logitech Driving Force GT (DFGT) which I bought used and it was a good product. It was released in 2006-08 so I cannot comment on the quality of the latest G29/G920. I did see one in a store recently though and I thought the wheel looked a bit small. Many would comment that if there was a choice between a G29 and a T300 they would get the Thrustmaster. Both brands have issues I believe but I have a feeling that the T300 is maybe just a bit better.
My new g29 also squeaks a little when steering left, but it is not an issue, just a sound. Except this it works like a dream after downloading LUT tables from simracing forums. (no deadzone, powerfull feedback, no clipping)- It is also very robustly built inside, I have no concerns about it lasting many years...
Hi Davy! Please tell me, I also play wheel stand pro t300 alcantara and my base resonates very much during vibration. Do you have the same or normal? if I attach the base to the table then all the rules. if to wheel stand pro then constantly bzzzzz)
Hi, sorry I'm not sure exactly what you mean. Are you saying that the T300 base is vibrating a lot, the mechanism inside when it is in use or it moves around a lot when it is mounted to the Wheel Stand Pro? I have had no issues with the wheel stand, it is fairly solid I would say, the only thing I can say is that you must place the tightening screws reasonably tight and do not extend the upright part too far or the weight of the base may cause it to wobble a bit when you are driving. If there is an issue with your T300 base mechanism then you would indeed need to mount it to a desk to check it.
Hey, today I was having problems with my Thrustmaster TMX for Xbox One, with the left paddle shifter. when I pressed the left paddle it would usually not downshift or would shift down twice instead of only once. so if you know what's happening or how to fix it, maybe any websites or things that can help that would be great. Thanks!
Hi, sorry not sure I fully understand the issue, with what game on the Xbox were you experiencing the issue? Could it be that you need to re-calibrate your shifters in that particular title?
Hi guys, just sold my T150 after 16months of casual use on the PS4 with no issues. Now looking to upgrade to a T300. Question guys - T300RS or the T300 599XX edition?? Thanks.
Get the edition with the 599XX Evo rim or if you can upgrade to a TS-PC racer based option and get a set of pedals. I have had three 599XX Evo based sets and all three failed on me, the bases I mean
Wow 3 fail on you, that's a lot. I see in my local retailer that the standard T300 RS is at its lowest price at £229 british pounds. They also offer a 3 year unconditional replacement warrenty for a further £45 british pounds in any event they will replace it with no questions asked. Sounds much better than buying online. The T300 Ferrari Alcantara edition is much more money at £399 from the same retailer. That's a lot more money just for a ferrari rim and a clutch pedal. Which 1 do you recommend out of these 2 options 👍
Depends on whether you need a clutch pedal or not, I mean if the standard is 2 pedal set. If you don't plan on getting a separate shifter later then 2 pedal set is fine. Definitely buy locally if you can so you can return if needs be. You don't want to go messing around with warranty repairs. Perhaps take the base model and add the 45 for peace of mind and if you beat the hell out of the base drifting or playing a rally game you're covered. I don't know about T300 firmware updates when connected to a PS4 since I only use PC but if you can once you get the wheel try and make sure the firmware is up to date.
@@DavyJonesSimRacing Thanks. The firmware with T150 was great so I can imagine the 300 to be ok also. No i dont need a clutch, been advised to put some sponge or a sqaush ball behind the brake. Yes a local retailer sounds like a plan. Love the ferrari rim though.:)
If the pedal set included the "conical brake mod" you can use that. The latest firmware for T300 allows you to manually control the fan. For example with the 599XX evo set you press the Mode button on the wheel base and then use Button #8 on the wheel to turn on the fan, if you want it to be cooling the base all the time. It also auto runs of course. Good luck with your purchase then and enjoy 😀
My Thruthmaster t 300 rs gt its decallibrating during the game after just 1 month :( . I unplug the usb from ps4 after the reconection is calibrating good but not for long time...
If you are not sure then return it to the retailer for either a refund or replacement unit and if that is not possible request an RMA from Thrustmaster
I reckon your bearings are rusting in the damp. In every video there is rain in the background. And it really does sound like rusty bearings groaning. Did it feel like a gritty feel? I've had my T300RS GT and had no issues with my setup at all for 2 years... it's unlucky that you've had issues with yours.
@@DavyJonesSimRacing did the fault not develop after several months in your environment? Is there common cause? Is it possibly that the noise is from a bearing. All valid questions. Replaced bearing in a G27 for rusty bearing due to storage in a shed where humidity caused surface rust all over the non soldered component legs on the PCB also. Oh and you could also check that everything is tightened up inside. Apparently the belt assembly can loosen too. You can laugh all you want mate. My wheel is fine.
I wasn't laughing. Just that you said in every video there is rain in the background, not sure what you meant by that. The wheel was stored indoors in a dry location so moisture was not the issue
Hi, well that depends on the game you are playing. But for example when using the wheel on a PC I pretty much use the default settings in the Thrustmaster settings which appear in the Game Controllers panel in Windows.
The wheel base includes an AC power cord which if not plugged in turns off the wheel. So yes you can leave it connected to the PC if you like. I keep my wheel and pedals on a stand and then place it at the PC when I'm using it and remove again when I'm not. I depends on your own setup of course. There's a photo of the stand setup here davyjones.info/blog/2017/7/15/adventures-in-sim-racing
True... if you try to open and lubricate the part and it doesn't work and you then send it off for warranty RMA and they detect that you've opened the base they might charge you for it... not worth it at that point... Mind you after 3 fails at this point I kind of wouldn't care 😁
@@DavyJonesSimRacing , Do you still have the same wheel? My G25 died last week, the wheel was actually working but getting a bit harder to turn, I opened up and was one of the motor that was harder to turn even though it was still working, I put it fully deep in WD40 and used a 9V battery to slowly turn it, the oil got completely full of black stuff from the brushes wearing material, then I used alcohol and then sprayed anti greaser and oiled the bearings, but didnt fix it... Anyway I checked the encoder wheel and was broken again (I already had glued it a few years ago), I glued it again and now the optical sensor doesnt detect the wheel. Now I want either a Thrustmaster T300 or a Logitech G29, but it seems both are garbage expensive devices that are probably mean to last 1000 hours and break :(. Logitech G29 also has a lot of problems: - 1st thing to die really super fast is the H-shifter pots (very low quality potentiometers); - motors are brushed and wear out and even probably before wearing all the brushes the motor is already a bit harder to spin from all the junk inside like mine; - G25/G27 encoder plastic wheel keep breaking, G29 seems to use a magnetic sensor but also seems to be constantly failing and needing cleaning; - Not a single part can be bought from Logitech as far as I know, only the H-shifter that dies very fast. They really do those things expensive and to keep blowing fast, theres is so much cheap technology that last forever that they could have used but no, they all still go with pots on the pedals, pots on the shifter... Even the community have made a mod for G25 pedals back then using light sensor so the more you press the pedal the more light it passes on a filter and the more the value goes up its super cheap and the shifter they could have used like 50 cent of magnetic switches just switch for each position and a small magnet that activate it easy and super cheap and last way longer than crap pots and are cheap to replace, FUCK THEM ALL...
I bought used Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer base off Ebay. It's the set they sell for PC only with base and rim no pedals. I bought the base only. They have only just made the TS-PC Racer rim available as a separate add-on. Anyway all okay for far and T300 base is stored away until I figure out a solution to get it working again. Thrustmaster offered only paid for RMA ~ €150, decided to get the used TS-PC base instead. Someone offered help with repairing the power supply inside the T300 base, since I think that is the issue, not sure if that solution is possible. Not in a hurry anyway... I would suggest you look at Fanatec or higher-end Thrustmaster like TS-PC..
@@DavyJonesSimRacing , Yeah I wish, but I cant afford them... its just a niche market they could have made them quite cheaper and even using other technologies but they seem to like using pots so that they wear out and you have to go buy a new full wheel or the accessory in case its not from logitech since they dont sell anything... If they sold all parts at good price, then all those wheels would have an amazing value, like if the pots on the pedals wear out we just buy new ones at a good price, same for the motors, but the thing is none care for that, out of warranty = good luck. We have to search quite a lot and try to find a motor that could be replaced in it and try to find random pots and modify them to fit the stuff and shit like that.
my t300 has fried it seems like. Was playing dirt rally, a very bright light comes from the wheel, it desconnects from the game. Then I even feel the burned smell and it does not work any more... Should I try to fix it or just get a new. I should say that I have opened it up and think that I found the problem but im not sure. :D
If it's still under warranty request an RMA as described in the video or return to where you purchased it if that's still possible. Opening the base will void your warranty so be careful, if you get accepted for RMA and then once you've sent it to them they see that it had been opened (don't know if they can tell) you might have an issue :)
Kinda stupid but DiRT Rally I'm sort of paranoid about playing with my T300, feels like the more active use a rally game would require might damage the wheel. Billy Strange reckons he's never had any trouble though. I've come to the conclusion that a TS-PC racer unit might be a more durable system...
@@DavyJonesSimRacing ohh well... I just opened it, very carfully though. Dont think I left any marks. Anyway, there is a very small black box thing on the card that has broken off, dont know for sure if that is it though. Dont really know what to do from here. Do you think it is possible to order any spareparts so that I can fix it myself??
@@Blue-X might be possible to replace circuit board parts, perhaps from eBay. post question on sim racing subreddit (/r/simracing) or on racedepartment.com
Thanks i have a click inside only wen i turn the wheel left the wen the wheel returns to the middle it is not straith anymore 😤 good video thanks for all the additional infos.
UDC-CREW mines pretty old. Waiting to hear if they’ll fix it. I may just crack it open and tighten the belt. See if that does the trick. I’m considering the Fanatec but I have the Sparco pedal set with load cell...lots of money in those pedals. Don’t know if I want to lose all that.
i just got mine a week before and i got a clicking noise when i turn left. After seeing this video, im thinking it will be back for some days or weeks and then some issue is going to appear. Not gonna stay with thrustmaster very long i believe....
If you're not sure return it if you can, try the retailer first I mean and then if you can't get a refund or a replacement look into the RMA process...
The clicking is one of the belts (or both) skipping teeth you just have to open the wheelbase and tighten the belt*s the squeaking problem is almost normal on this base it is a belt holder on the bottom right corner ( just screw the holder off and grease it from inside and the squeaking should go away
@@lolmanque1394 only while turning left. I still had like 4 days with it. so i deliver it. People said bad things about this t300 pro, clicking noises, and that happened to me too.
Wondering if anyone has had an issue with the T300RS GT wheel. Everything is working perfectly except the right paddle shifter. It not registering in Thrustmasters program. I took it apart and clicked the clicker by hand, still nothing. So I know its not the paddle or spring at all.
Try and get it replaced or repaired if you are eligible for a warranty repair etc. Taking the unit apart is supposed to void the warranty though. I don't think I've come across such an issue before.
@@DavyJonesSimRacing I found one of the solder connections on the board inside for the right clicker has broken off. I will end up buying a new wheel as I bought it second hand, in very good condition. I will also buy a mini solder kit soon and attempt to solder it myself. (Mechanic by trade)
My thrustmaster t300 gets really stiff when it is plugged into anything But when I unplug it becomes real smooth Are there any fixes for this? Please it's an expensive piece of tech and I don't want to lose it so early...
Sorry can you outline the issue in more detail? What do you mean by when you plug it into anything, do you mean a game or just plugging it into the mains electricity so that it powers on?
@@DavyJonesSimRacing like when I plug into my computer (or any other computer)it becomes really stiff It all happened after I was getting ready for a race in AC I got to the track and the wheel suddenly glitched out(it somehow 'reconnected' to the computer)and it became stiff there and there was nothing I could do to get it working again
It came back no more isues (but for how long) the belt of the moter was to tight the replaced it. Like i said no isues jet i will keep you updated wen something breaks
You might be lucky and experience no issues at all, many have. In all cases buy locally if you can and return for refund or replacement the moment there is any sign of an issue.
Yes, be afraid, be very afraid... I just grabbed one of these used. BIG mistake, it starts making a scary loud grinding/humming noise after just a few minutes of racing.... Previously had a G27 (also bought used), ran it for YEARS with zero issue. This was my first Thrustmaster purchase, it will also be my last.
I'm about a month away from buying this wheel, or at least that was the plan. This video is causing me a little concern. Its around $500 in Canada, which I feel is enough money to spend and expect real quality in return. The buying from a local retailer tip makes good sense. That puts Walmart at the head of the queue.
If I were you, although it doesn't include pedals as well, or at least the original did not, look perhaps at a Thrustmaster TS-PC racer instead. It's a more powerful motor and mechanism. The original TS-PC Racer came with a F1 style wheel and base only and was PC compatible only I think. There has since been another version released which comes with a Ferrari 488 wheel (and actual rim size I think) also the updated Thrustmaster wheel for the PS4 includes the updated TS-PC base style I think. Or it may be also that the T300 quality has improved over time. Whatever you buy and as I noted in the video check the warranty period, especially from the retailer, best of luck!
Thanks for the advise but the TS-PC racer with pedals is about twice the price of this T300 model. That takes it well beyond my means. If I buy from Walmart I get 90 days to return to store, or perhaps longer if I am persistent. Hopefully I get a good one and not a dud. Thanks again, great video, really good info.
Thrustmaster's global warranty is two years I think, retailer's base warranty should be at least a year, it will depend on the coountry/region and specific retailer of course... if you get the T300 make sure the firmware is up to date as well as making sure you're not force feedback clipping. I included some notes on clipping in my PC sim tutorials (RaceRoom, rFactor2, Assetto Corsa). The latest firmware for the T300 allows the internal cooling fan to come on automatically. As you said the TS-PC racer with pedals is a bit expensive so you'll probably be okay with the the T300. Not your warrantly and RMA options as a back of course, goes the same for any devices you buy, good luck and enjoy!
bruh i had my t300 for 3 years fucking about with it an its only now just started having issues but not that bad lol it could be ya settings your using or the way your using the wheel ?? i just have a psu problem or a ffb issue
literally just put my setup together and my wheel doesn’t even have any force feedback. and no other way of figuring out how to fix it unless i wait 15 days for them to email me how to fix it 😐😐😐
COULD BE THE GAME ALSO. .I WAS HAVING ISSUES WITH FORZA HORIZON 4 WITH NO FFB ON MY 150 PRO. INSTALLED MOTORSPORTS 7 . AND THEN IT WORKED. GUESSING IT WAS THE CONFIG FILE OR FFB FILE FOR THE GAME SOMETIMES T HATHAPPENS
Such an easy fix I get you ruin the actual warranty but if you opened it then wiped off the belt noise is gone I've met so many people with this issue and then do what I said and boom gone lol
Yeah, i still have a DFGT(11 years old and still running) had a T300 for one year and it had the calibration issues. Got a used T500 that's been on heavy use for years, my 9 months old son broke it, he climbs the cockpit using the wheel as climb point, so not a wheels fault after all. Now i'm in doubt about the next wheel. I use it on PS4 and tje next gen consoles is a out to arrive. I don't know if i got a used T500 again or a new T300(almost the same price here in Brazilian). There's the TGT but its just too damn expensive here.
Hey guys, 13 months after the release of this video and I am about to order a new wheel and pedal set within this week. Been watching alot of reviews etc. and alot about the t300 series. I am in no way wanting to buy the G29 as its FFB system is really dated and the visuals are too "arcady". Ive been using a TM Ferrari 458 wheel and pedal set for 4 years and have had no issues and also the reason I want to stick to TM. Could the past issues have been batch related, has anyone bought this wheel and base set in 2019? I am going to be buying the T300 RS GT edition.
Batch related or maybe manufacturing quality over time... When buying check retailer's warranty period and return policy. Local retail, I mean one that you can actually visit is best and Amazon I think will allow you to send items back for free within a certain period. And of course Thrustmaster's own RMA should be 2 years globally. Good luck and enjoy the new set 😉
@@andrewarmstrong8651 One year down the road and the T300 GTE is am absolute gem of a FFB system. Good luck with what ever choice you make besides Thrustmaster in this price range.
Lucky you, just bought one and it broke after the second Dirt 2.0 session: lost FFB at first.Then after letting it to cool down it does not calibrate anymore. Even with the calibration software. All in all i played flawlessly about 3 to 4 hours.
My break pedal snapped in half.I got it for Christmas..oI break everything.Not intentionally.i just use it and then some use it some more.,I really don't know how your warranty stuff works.so I guess I'll see what's up ,then go from there.
Sorry can't comment. The uprights for the pedals are strong plastic so should not break and I've used mine with and without the brake pedal mod and never had an issue. If you apply for a warranty repair they will want an explanation of what happened to be convinced that it was a product fault, a quick video of it would help I guess
@@DavyJonesSimRacing I know what your implying.I race stock cars i dont go around stomping on my pedals.it just broke i heard the front break then the rest,one of the layers was just hold it together but i couldnt brake anymore.i fixed it with some screws.works great.
Hi, heheh I saw your name and my first thought was to comment that I already knew the name because of Mike as SimRacin604 but of course you came via Mike etc ;) Okay so you're still using a DFGT? My advice is KEEP IT!! and maybe also get the granturgismo.com paddle shifter mods. To be honest I often look at the T300 I have (#3 at this point as in the video) and think I should have kept the DFGT. I mean I am literally afraid to play DiRT Rally in case the T300 dies and most of my Dirt Rally play was using the DFGT and no trouble at all it seems... :) Great to have you here and thanks for the positive comments, I really appreciate it.. make all the hours staring at a screen worth it, you'll know what I mean :)
What can be said? First of all, well done on this video it seems like a long and annoying process. What did you do with the wheel? Did you do some crazy Max Max Mad Super Super Max shitt? lol Not seriously, I've had this set for 6 years now and I can barely hear its fan and I drive non-stop for the most part 100% power. To me, it seems like serious misfortune, or are you a talented genius ?!
Thats some rotten luck. I have one myself and know quite a few people who don't have issues with it. But yeah. Be sure to keep your purchase ticket. You can buy online and save a few bucks tho warenty issues will be a hassle. If you buy it in a local store they have to deal with it. Return it to them and its their problem, they are responsable for the products they chose the sell.
Let's just admit thrustmaster makes shit products that look expensive. Really? A powersupply inside the wheel itself?! I smell burning all the time and now my wheel is totally dead. Fuck TM
I've recently bought a t300rs gt edition 8 weeks ago and in that 8 weeks I've had the wheel and the motor replaced 4 times. So the moral of the story is thrustmaster is nothing but a piece of shit.
Wheel and base replaced four times? By returning to the retailer I assume since sending to Thrustmaster for repair would not be quick enough in my experience 😁
@@vojtechnavratil6613 hey I just bought this today and 2 hrs in it’s started to squeak while turning the wheel near center. I’ve set ffb to only 75% in the thrustmaster control panel and 85% strength in project cars 2. Did I do something wrong to make it squeak with such less time played?
I today bought it and plugged it in and regreat it xD I will give back this piece of ***** It is not working in games. It is detected in windows and in Assetto Corsa but no buttons and axis work at all. Wheel every 1-2 seconds just make small 1cm turns to left and right over and over again. What a joke of a wheel.
if you want more views, why don't you stop showing us the wheel making noise, you don't have to turn it 50Million times... for this reason, I have no interest in this video... probably
I had a problem with my set but I can't send to france due to the covid-19. Can they send a new set for me if I prove everything that my wheel is broken ?
![Who Wrote a Short Story That Seriously Disturbed a Teacher? | Dirty Laundry x Smosh [Full Episode]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bvHAy_rKoEI/mqdefault.jpg)
Some additional notes on the RMA process for warranty repair since somebody asked me about it or more specifically they wanted to know what was wrong with the T300 wheel bases while they were making noises in the video clips I included in my video. I don’t have any information on what was happening inside the T300 wheel bases that caused them to make noise.
It would be safe to assume that Thrustmaster Support might provide some details via email on the errors occurring inside the wheel base once the RMA process has been completed but that isn’t something they offer.
As far as I am aware the process goes that Thrustmaster Support will review the details shared by the end user and then arrange the RMA if required and the actual RMA process, once the wheel base arrives at the service centre is handled by a separate team. Once the wheel base arrives at the service centre, for example for Europe in France, the RMA technicians will test the wheel base and once completed will ship it back to the user.
If I recall correctly the RMA team will send an email to the end user once they have received a wheel base and will then send a follow-up email once it has been shipped back to the end user. I noted that their emails, for example from the RMA team in France were malformed a little and so ended up in my email junk folder to that is something to watch out for.
It might also be useful to note that they may request an RMA of a wheel base up to 3 times if necessary before they will offer to send the user a new replacement wheel base. Of course if a wheel base is considered to be unrepairable the first time it is sent for RMA they most likely would offer to send a replacement base.
In my case, and as I described in the video my second T300 wheel base developed another issue after it had already gone through the RMA process. And once an RMA had been requested a second time for the same wheel base I spoke with the retailer who then requested the RMA details which assisted in confirming that there was another issue occurring.
And the retailer then agreed to take back the T300 set and replace it with a new one. Which is the set I am currently using.
The warranty offered by retailers will of course differ by country and region so check what the rules are in your region when buying a new sim racing wheel which will maybe assist in getting an issues resolved should you experience any issues.
Good video and important consumer experience data here. But bro, you don't need to include MINUTES of the noises, we know what you meant after 2 seconds or so, no need to include the other 30 of the clip..
correct! the video was much too long!
@@GreenJEntertainment9 then fucking skip? You mentally challenged? It’s GREAT documentation that could also reinforce other buyers cases with returns. Sorry your billions per minute time was wasted on a RUclips video.
When I bought T300RS for the first time back in 2014 and (BTW I also own wheel stand pro v2 which has never caused any issue and it's like a tank when it comes to stability if properly tightened even at 100% FFB.) The wheelbase came faulty and started making weird noises and movements by itself. Fortunate enough, I was able to sense it in the first place. I shipped it back ASAP hoping to get a better replacement. The worst part is sometimes you'd easily run out of that 15/30 days of the trial period even before you can figure out that something is wrong, and then you're stuck with nothing but a repair. However, I got a replacement and it's been running great as of today so no complaints there *touch-wood*. IMO I felt like I got a refurbished or returned item just so the retail shop could push it out of their inventory. I might be wrong but it should have worked just fine if that wasn't the case. Unfortunately, sometimes that's one thing you can never know 'for sure' from online shopping.
From what I've been told, or as far as I can tell any device sent back to Thrustmaster if needed to be replaced would be replaced with a new unit or a retailer would send it back to the local distributor. I don't think there's any point for either side sending a damaged or refurbished unit as a replacement. I don't doubt what you say and errors occur but any replacement should be new. Not defending Thrustmaster just my thoughts 😁
Your video lasted longer than your wheels !! Useful yes but a little bit drawn out to be fair.
Lmao
Where all your videos then "ryan"
Great video. I got myself a T300rs on June last year and have been playing GT7 and F1. I´ve been facing two issues: one is the FFB geting week, it feels like I lost grip, I have to put the FFB really low, almost unnouticable to make it run withou any other overheat problem. The second problem started a few weeks ago, after a few minutes of playing the engine starts to do a loud and weid noise. I turn off my game everytime this happens and it´s so annyoing. I will try to contact the support team but honestly I don´t want a new one, I would like to get a refund cause I´m so dissapointed with this wheel. I had a Logitech G27 back in the past and never had any problem.
The sounds of the first two sets broke my heart but the third one just got me laughing. Man you've had some bad luck with those. Hopefully the current set lasts a bit longer. Good tips!
I hope so too... I'm a wheel damage expert at this point :)
Hi @Davy Jones . Well, what can I tell you. You and everyone in the comment section has the right to call me an idiot. I've purchased a T300 and noticed that it generates a lot of noise. Mostly wheel base squeeking when turning the wheel, weird, obnoviously loud fan noise and pedal noise. Because I was used to how my old G25 behaved, I've ignored it. Technically the wheel works fine and usually I drive very late at night which means that I always use some 5.1 headphones. After seeing your vid, I'm quite worried, like did I make the right choice. I'm about 1500km away from Paris. That means quite a hassle if I ever want to send it to any sort of repair service. Besides, I'm out of warranty. Should I consider selling this puppy soon and saving for something more reliable like a T500RS or going full-frenzy on a Fanatec?
Difficult to say... If the noise doesn't bother you then maybe just keep using the base, since it's out of warranty anyway. You could send it for repair but of course they'll charge your for it, €150 minimum I think. They will say we charge more maybe if its a bigger problem etc but it sounds like the regular noise issue. You could indeed try to sell it and go for a Fanatec, hard to say, of course if you do sell it and the buyer notices something then you would have a problem. Again hard to say.
Hey guys. I bought used T300 currently out of warranty. Everything worked fine, until the click problem occured (second problem in the video). While changing the direction of steering something pops and I can feel a free movement of the steering wheel. Any Ideas what could it be?
can you post a video of it in action? You can still RMA it if its out of warranty, Thrustmaster will just charge you for repairing it. I have a T300 base sitting in a box here that I'll have to pay to have repaired at some point.
very insightful video, i recently purchased the t300 and I hope it goes fine with no issues
I hope so too 😉
How is your wheel man? Still working perfect?
@@woutme yes it is, thankfully
@@PlayerOneOfLagos And now?
@@alirerezaabedi2047 no issues at all and it is used every single day in my vr arcade @intavr.ng at instagram you can see the videos there
Your squeaking issue is super easy to fix, just grease the gearing and some other contact places that are poorly greased, everything from TM is poorly greased, my peds started squeaming after 3 days of use, base started 5 days of use.
After greasing everything i made belts littlebit stronger, now everything is more responsive and smooth, which is perfect :)
Hey which grease did you use and where did you apply it?
Do you know why my t300rs is showing a green light near the mode button? Thanks
Check the manual,:isn't it green for console and red for PC or something like that
@@DavyJonesSimRacing green for swap the gas and clutch
My steering wheel's light won't turned on even though the cable power is on (the blue light is on). What should i do? Do you have the same issue? Please answer me asap
I have a t300rs base and I've never turned the wheel when I wasn't supposed to (whenever I was not driving) Maybe thats your problem bro or at least where it's coming from....just a thought. I wouldn't force your wheel to turn if you feel like it doesn't want to go that way other than for ffb reasons obviously.
Hello, can please help me.. I got this wheel and upon boot up it auto-calibrates and i find the wheel too heavy (to turn 360deg needs 2 hands)... so I USB into my PC and launch TM control panel app, which detects the wheel fine... I close it without changing anything, and wheel become lighter significantly.... but the moment I disconnect from USB port of PC and reconnect it (or connect to PS4), it auto-calibrate again and become very heavy again....
Hi, sorry I am not sure about use if the T300 with PlayStation. Please check the user manual
Jheeeez you've had as much luck as me, I've had thrustmaster support send me a PCB for a shifter, I've sent my wheel base back to them, but then it was fine for q4 months. Since upgraded to a tsxw, but I've found it's best soon as I get the wheel new is run the hell out of it for several hours like 6 7 hours on hight ffb settings, then if it's OK I turn the ffb down to what I have it on which is 55% ingame, please note the strength of your ffb will determine how long your wheel lasts 100% true fact, Unless you have a direct drive wheel, but I feel it's best to send the wheel to tm in France and let them fix it because it seems most new wheels have faults, but I do actually recommend thrustmaster long as you look after the wheel it's like a car, you don't go round trashing it everywhere do you you clean look after it just the same as a ffb wheel in my eyes,
My T300 usually lasts around 30-40 mins before FFB goes and when I plug it back in it will not centre and has no FFB, each time I have to plug into pc and re-calibrate it. I have had the wheel for just over 2 years but it will be lucky if it has had 100 hours on it. Spoke with thrustmaster and they want £120 to fix it even though it is a common fault, they even admit certain games are worse than others for causing the fault. Knowing this should they should have recalled them yet they are still selling T300 with known issues, its just damaging what is left of their reputation
They won't do anything to help anyone particularly if it's out of warranty. My T300 base also requires a paid RMA repair and it's only 1 year old. It's a retailer replacement and based on warranty of original purchase it's not covered etc. They have a strict policy and they don't bend or they'd be run out of business with repairs. Maybe the quality to T300/TX bases have improved over time, I don't know. Some people have issues some don't. Definitely having the power supply inside the unit seems to be an issue, it's external for the TS-PC racer line (T-GT is the same) and which seems to be a better design. More rigid mechanism as well but you get the point. It's f!ckin depressing all these T300 failures 😐
I think most of the issue is that a lot of people don't understood that you have to set the FFB correctly to the game.
Because you can overheat or break the base if you set it wrong and it is clipping.
That's why you have people who can break 4 basis during one month... Fine-tuning is necessary. It is not plug and play(without thinking) device ;)
Dam just purchased this wheel. Now im worried. Thanks for the advice.
wouldn't worry I have had mines just under two years quite hard use on dirt rally ac drifting and racing in general for it to have a similiar issues seems like it is something he was doing I used the clamp and its fine he either done something or was running it at 100% ffb or sumin as all his wheels had a similar sounds seems like he was either doing something to cause this
Doesnt matter but I never ran FFB at 100% and had the wheel base mounted on a wheel stand which is not much different from clamping it. I've said before that many, like you, never had any issues while many of us did, it's just how it goes with T300 bases I reckon...
@@DavyJonesSimRacing maybe bad batch or something I went through 4 g29s on RMAs before the t300 I wouldn't touch logitech now g29 is just a modified DF GT inside the bas and the peddles are what mines had issues with flickering throttle the thurstmaster from my point of view has been much better but do reckong they have bad batchs
I ordered this wheel and I'm looking forward test it.. I'm a bit worried too now. How's yours by the way after 9 months?
Iam about to buy the wheel next month t300,should i purchase it or move towards logitech?
My T300 Ferrrari edition used to abruptly turn hard left in-game (iRacing) and power off out of no where. Then it turns on after 15-30 minutes. This time it didnt turn back on at all. Would you know what might have caused this?
Not sure, Google search for hard reset or factory reset methods. And if you can get it back running try updating the firmware.
@@DavyJonesSimRacing I would do the hard reset but the base would need power first correct?
I assume so yes but if not responding at all then maybe it doesn't matter
Should be called trashmaster. Had 4 tx servo bases in 1 month. All had some problem and 599 rim starts to get lose and make noise. Returned it all to step up to fanatec for an extra $125 with tax and shipping so a way better deal and quality.
Its a good playing product for the money. your shiits tight:)
Thanks for this! Just got T248 and the Windows software for calibration just crashes, now they are making me go through a long process to test in games, upload pics, it is a week old so if they mess me about I will just return it to the retailer, looking on reddit TMs customer service seems lack luster
Issue im seeing is that your had the spring and Damper set 100 spring makes the wheel heaver even at only 75% you prolly burnt the motor out or over stressed it all 3 times based on my experience with the T300RS
I bought a brand new TS XW sparco package 3 months ago. It has just broken, and it is going to take at least a month for me to send it to their Canadian facility for repair and get it back. I'm REALLY not impressed with this company. As soon as I get it back I'm considering selling every TM product I have and just waiting for an opportunity to find a Fanatec system. If anyone is considering a TM product, don't go through with it! You should either get the budget friendly Logitec, or just save up to get a Fanatec or Sim Magic system.
Can you please please help me out .. I just bought the Thrustmaster T300 Alcantara, and playing Gran Turismo 7 on PS5 with it .
Problem Is that sooner or later it's like the Wheel losses it's feedback. I'll play a few Races n it's simply amazing, I feel each turn , each bump , each curb and especially when u or someone bumps u .. But after a couple of laps or in the next race it's like there's nothing happening. Wheel just has no resistance when turning , no feedback at all when driving over curbs and hitting something or someone..... What is this ?? Why is this happening?? Please any advice?? This is my first Wheel and when it's works it's amazing , I couldn't be happier, but always the same thing happens. Lap 1 and 2 will be with great feedback and u feel everything , but then laps 3 , 4 n 5 it's like it shuts down ... Once race it's all good , next nothing
Sorry not really sure, try connecting it to a computer and update the firmware if necessary support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t300ferrarialcantara-en/
@@DavyJonesSimRacing Thanks for such a quick reply, appreciate it.
Yeah so I did some looking around, and seems alot of ppl using this and even the Gran Turismo DD Wheel are having similar issues. They say it's the the Game itself ( Gran Turismo 7) no feedback on curbs , bumps and when hitting something... But I have not plugged it into my PC , so should I do that regardless with a new wheel ? Is it recommended?? Thanks again , I'll Sub for sure :)
You can always check it. If there is a software update it will most likely be to support connectivity of a new product like their upgraded pedal set, so there may not be any improvements to the performance of the wheel but no harm to check for an update anyway...
Hey do you know if i will be able to send my Thrustmaster wheel base for RMA from India as I am planning to buy one
There should be an RMA process for customers in India where you send the device to a service center in that region
Would you recommend buying this wheel or should I stay away from it?
If you mean the T300? Yes I would. I think that I was perhaps just unlucky or the quality has improved since the third T300 base appears to be okay. If you could afford it I would look at the Thrustmaster TS-PC racer as well as the base for that set includes some improvements. Note the TS-PC set doesn't come with pedals and neither is it sold as a separate base unit as far as I am aware. But it is good to be aware of it
The T300 alcantare edition is about the max I'm willing to spend on my first wheel. I was thinking to buy a fanatec CSL Elite with the loadcell pedals but that's a bit too expensive and I'm not sure if I will like racing with a wheel. So it would be stupid to invest a lot of money in something you won't use after a couple months. And the TS-PC comes close to the entry direct drive wheels. I will probably start with this wheel and upgrade to a direct drive when it's a bit cheaper. I just heard that people have lots of problems with the t300 from dead psu's to broken moters and squeaking. I don't want to be dealing with support all the time
Btw the issue you had is caused by the little tension wheel that's scratching agianst the plastic. Thrustmaster used too little grease or it becomes dry after a few months. I found a video on how to fix it yourself, not sure if this voids the warranty though. ruclips.net/video/Di5i0YXMi6Q/видео.html
That was a very useful video thanks. I don't think a TS-PC comes close to an entry-level direct drive set, if such a thing exists, maybe you mean the Feel VR thing. Anyway a different system. If this is to be your first wheel and you say "I'm not sure if I will like racing with a wheel" I would instead perhaps look at getting a used Logitech Driving Force GT to see if you like using a wheel and then go from there. Which is what I did.
zGamersNetworkz don't buy
Does anyone know with thrustmaster warranty do you have to ship the product back and then they send you a new one? Because it took about 3 weeks to be delivered
I think it depends on the cost of repair needed. If you are under warranty period you request RMA and they will pay for you to ship it and them sending it back. In most cases they will repair the device if they can or if it's beyond repair they will just send you a new one...
So hmm, t300 out of stock in my country (chile) bought second hand, originally bought in usa. So if it goes bad im screwed.
Well, I've had it for some months now and the only issue initially has been wheel not returning to perfect center after calibration (sometimes overshooting by quite significant margin) but now there's definitely a problem with a motor.
I plugged it in one day and ffb just felt wrong, not smooth and any bump in the road seemed to cause clipping. Question is, how do I record a video about that? The calibration thing was easy to record and it also persisted despite following instructions to recenter the wheel.
Funny. First it took a while to get used to ffb and now it feels shit all of a sudden.
Have you considered returning to retailer or an RMA? If RMA then Thrustmaster will want to see evidence of a problem of some sort. So you you would mount the base using the included clamp and take a video of it in operation while the issue is occuring.
mine start to get bad contact conection with games..as in a milde of a race it change to the main menu..foto session.. so, NO to Thrustmaster.
If no to thrustmaster then what else is there?
Logitech or Fanatec or get a Thrustmaster TS-PC based unit which price wise is up there with Fanatec anyway... TS-PC has stronger mechanism, cooling and power supply.
Is the TS-PC based unit compatible to use on the PS4
No but there is a version of it that does. I think its called the T-GT. Basically it has the same internals as a TS-PC and is for PS4 & PC and comes with pedals. Was listed as Thrustmaster's most expensive set ever I think, the price has maybe come down though. There are several reviews of it available
@@DavyJonesSimRacing Yes it could be that one then, they call it the T700 and was made for GT Sport. Video on here somewhere of Lewis Hamilton having a go. Yes it's very pricey and simracingirl on here done a review on it vs the Fanetic csl elite. Silly money though.
I was close to buy the t300 but watching this video and listen about dealer near in my place I've just given up.
In Brazil we dont have official dealer. If I have any problem issue w/ the wheel I can't do nothing to repair.
I will have to get the logitech g923 cause at least we have dealer :/
Very thanks to the video.
Friend. Its will be my first wheel. What about start w/ logitech 923 (fake g29 kkk) is it a huge difference between g923 to t300?
Sorry don't know. Go for the most popular model I would say.
Logitech G series and Thrustmaster T series are perhaps similar given that they are belt and gear driven and prices will perhaps also be similar. I would look at the most recent reviews that you can find and whatever model you pick make sure there is a way to return it for refund or replacement locally should you have any issues. Good luck!!
I have just upgraded to T300 from G29... BIG difference, but i had to teardown my T300 after first 2 minutes of use and modify the factory project in 3 places xD
That squeaking noise is one of the dumb engineering of this wheel but it's very easy to fix
Clicking noise is the effect of poor manufacturing of the gears
You mean the plastic gears on which the belt stand on ?
what if i dont have warranty or the purchase receipt? is there any other way
I think you could pay them for a repair but you would have to submit a support ticket first I guess
Hi, i have a question, should i buy a T300 RS, so far it seems it has a also bad reputation as a G29, i had 4 of those which made squeeling noises when turned left, i gave up on the Logitech so i am considering to buy a T300, now should i buy it or will it be also a Pain in the back?
I originally owned an old Logitech Driving Force GT (DFGT) which I bought used and it was a good product. It was released in 2006-08 so I cannot comment on the quality of the latest G29/G920. I did see one in a store recently though and I thought the wheel looked a bit small. Many would comment that if there was a choice between a G29 and a T300 they would get the Thrustmaster. Both brands have issues I believe but I have a feeling that the T300 is maybe just a bit better.
Hi, thanks for the anwser, i really got sick of the g29 because of the deadzone and weird ffb, soo im going to purchase a t300
@@elegy8202 Did you get a T300? What are they Like?
@@markweatherall7437 they are very good actually, the feel of the force feed back is unbelivable its perfect
My new g29 also squeaks a little when steering left, but it is not an issue, just a sound. Except this it works like a dream after downloading LUT tables from simracing forums. (no deadzone, powerfull feedback, no clipping)- It is also very robustly built inside, I have no concerns about it lasting many years...
Hi there, my secondhand t300 has started spinning continuously when I switch it on, only had it around 6 months, any idea how I fix it?
Try a hard reset, search the web for how to do it and also try and upgrade the wheel firmware if you have a PC to connect it to.
@@DavyJonesSimRacing ok, thank you, will have a hunt around 👍
@@jamboredbeard motor faulty
take it apart a lub the idle pully fixed mine for years now
Hi Davy! Please tell me, I also play wheel stand pro t300 alcantara and my base resonates very much during vibration. Do you have the same or normal? if I attach the base to the table then all the rules. if to wheel stand pro then constantly bzzzzz)
Hi, sorry I'm not sure exactly what you mean. Are you saying that the T300 base is vibrating a lot, the mechanism inside when it is in use or it moves around a lot when it is mounted to the Wheel Stand Pro? I have had no issues with the wheel stand, it is fairly solid I would say, the only thing I can say is that you must place the tightening screws reasonably tight and do not extend the upright part too far or the weight of the base may cause it to wobble a bit when you are driving. If there is an issue with your T300 base mechanism then you would indeed need to mount it to a desk to check it.
I just got the T300 GT last week, I'm now being paranoid by watching T300 problem videos 😂
I already have second one :D first one I had to return just in one week. Now with the second one I starting to hear those squaky noises
Hey, today I was having problems with my Thrustmaster TMX for Xbox One, with the left paddle shifter. when I pressed the left paddle it would usually not downshift or would shift down twice instead of only once. so if you know what's happening or how to fix it, maybe any websites or things that can help that would be great. Thanks!
Hi, sorry not sure I fully understand the issue, with what game on the Xbox were you experiencing the issue? Could it be that you need to re-calibrate your shifters in that particular title?
Hi guys, just sold my T150 after 16months of casual use on the PS4 with no issues. Now looking to upgrade to a T300. Question guys - T300RS or the T300 599XX edition?? Thanks.
Get the edition with the 599XX Evo rim or if you can upgrade to a TS-PC racer based option and get a set of pedals. I have had three 599XX Evo based sets and all three failed on me, the bases I mean
Wow 3 fail on you, that's a lot. I see in my local retailer that the standard T300 RS is at its lowest price at £229 british pounds. They also offer a 3 year unconditional replacement warrenty for a further £45 british pounds in any event they will replace it with no questions asked. Sounds much better than buying online. The T300 Ferrari Alcantara edition is much more money at £399 from the same retailer. That's a lot more money just for a ferrari rim and a clutch pedal. Which 1 do you recommend out of these 2 options 👍
Depends on whether you need a clutch pedal or not, I mean if the standard is 2 pedal set. If you don't plan on getting a separate shifter later then 2 pedal set is fine. Definitely buy locally if you can so you can return if needs be. You don't want to go messing around with warranty repairs. Perhaps take the base model and add the 45 for peace of mind and if you beat the hell out of the base drifting or playing a rally game you're covered. I don't know about T300 firmware updates when connected to a PS4 since I only use PC but if you can once you get the wheel try and make sure the firmware is up to date.
@@DavyJonesSimRacing Thanks. The firmware with T150 was great so I can imagine the 300 to be ok also. No i dont need a clutch, been advised to put some sponge or a sqaush ball behind the brake. Yes a local retailer sounds like a plan. Love the ferrari rim though.:)
If the pedal set included the "conical brake mod" you can use that. The latest firmware for T300 allows you to manually control the fan. For example with the 599XX evo set you press the Mode button on the wheel base and then use Button #8 on the wheel to turn on the fan, if you want it to be cooling the base all the time. It also auto runs of course. Good luck with your purchase then and enjoy 😀
My Thruthmaster t 300 rs gt its decallibrating during the game after just 1 month :( . I unplug the usb from ps4 after the reconection is calibrating good but not for long time...
If you are not sure then return it to the retailer for either a refund or replacement unit and if that is not possible request an RMA from Thrustmaster
I reckon your bearings are rusting in the damp. In every video there is rain in the background. And it really does sound like rusty bearings groaning. Did it feel like a gritty feel?
I've had my T300RS GT and had no issues with my setup at all for 2 years... it's unlucky that you've had issues with yours.
rusty bearings from rain the the background? 😂
@@DavyJonesSimRacing did the fault not develop after several months in your environment? Is there common cause? Is it possibly that the noise is from a bearing.
All valid questions. Replaced bearing in a G27 for rusty bearing due to storage in a shed where humidity caused surface rust all over the non soldered component legs on the PCB also.
Oh and you could also check that everything is tightened up inside. Apparently the belt assembly can loosen too.
You can laugh all you want mate. My wheel is fine.
I wasn't laughing. Just that you said in every video there is rain in the background, not sure what you meant by that. The wheel was stored indoors in a dry location so moisture was not the issue
How is the wheel today? Any issues with the third wheel?
Hi, all okay so far it seems, or at least I haven't notices any noises yet ;)
Davy Jones great, I am planning to get the GT Edition T300RS, do you use the default settings for the FBB?
Hi, well that depends on the game you are playing. But for example when using the wheel on a PC I pretty much use the default settings in the Thrustmaster settings which appear in the Game Controllers panel in Windows.
Another question is do you unplug the wheel to the pc when you are not using or you plug it in all the time?
The wheel base includes an AC power cord which if not plugged in turns off the wheel. So yes you can leave it connected to the PC if you like. I keep my wheel and pedals on a stand and then place it at the PC when I'm using it and remove again when I'm not. I depends on your own setup of course. There's a photo of the stand setup here davyjones.info/blog/2017/7/15/adventures-in-sim-racing
I think that noise when turning is easily fixed by just lubbing a part inside, but yeah opening loses warranty :(.
True... if you try to open and lubricate the part and it doesn't work and you then send it off for warranty RMA and they detect that you've opened the base they might charge you for it... not worth it at that point... Mind you after 3 fails at this point I kind of wouldn't care 😁
@@DavyJonesSimRacing , Do you still have the same wheel?
My G25 died last week, the wheel was actually working but getting a bit harder to turn, I opened up and was one of the motor that was harder to turn even though it was still working, I put it fully deep in WD40 and used a 9V battery to slowly turn it, the oil got completely full of black stuff from the brushes wearing material, then I used alcohol and then sprayed anti greaser and oiled the bearings, but didnt fix it...
Anyway I checked the encoder wheel and was broken again (I already had glued it a few years ago), I glued it again and now the optical sensor doesnt detect the wheel.
Now I want either a Thrustmaster T300 or a Logitech G29, but it seems both are garbage expensive devices that are probably mean to last 1000 hours and break :(.
Logitech G29 also has a lot of problems:
- 1st thing to die really super fast is the H-shifter pots (very low quality potentiometers);
- motors are brushed and wear out and even probably before wearing all the brushes the motor is already a bit harder to spin from all the junk inside like mine;
- G25/G27 encoder plastic wheel keep breaking, G29 seems to use a magnetic sensor but also seems to be constantly failing and needing cleaning;
- Not a single part can be bought from Logitech as far as I know, only the H-shifter that dies very fast.
They really do those things expensive and to keep blowing fast, theres is so much cheap technology that last forever that they could have used but no, they all still go with pots on the pedals, pots on the shifter... Even the community have made a mod for G25 pedals back then using light sensor so the more you press the pedal the more light it passes on a filter and the more the value goes up its super cheap and the shifter they could have used like 50 cent of magnetic switches just switch for each position and a small magnet that activate it easy and super cheap and last way longer than crap pots and are cheap to replace, FUCK THEM ALL...
I bought used Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer base off Ebay. It's the set they sell for PC only with base and rim no pedals. I bought the base only. They have only just made the TS-PC Racer rim available as a separate add-on. Anyway all okay for far and T300 base is stored away until I figure out a solution to get it working again. Thrustmaster offered only paid for RMA ~ €150, decided to get the used TS-PC base instead. Someone offered help with repairing the power supply inside the T300 base, since I think that is the issue, not sure if that solution is possible. Not in a hurry anyway... I would suggest you look at Fanatec or higher-end Thrustmaster like TS-PC..
@@DavyJonesSimRacing , Yeah I wish, but I cant afford them... its just a niche market they could have made them quite cheaper and even using other technologies but they seem to like using pots so that they wear out and you have to go buy a new full wheel or the accessory in case its not from logitech since they dont sell anything...
If they sold all parts at good price, then all those wheels would have an amazing value, like if the pots on the pedals wear out we just buy new ones at a good price, same for the motors, but the thing is none care for that, out of warranty = good luck.
We have to search quite a lot and try to find a motor that could be replaced in it and try to find random pots and modify them to fit the stuff and shit like that.
4:32 sounds like output shaft is loose (main shaft- where wheel is mounted)
my t300 has fried it seems like. Was playing dirt rally, a very bright light comes from the wheel, it desconnects from the game. Then I even feel the burned smell and it does not work any more... Should I try to fix it or just get a new. I should say that I have opened it up and think that I found the problem but im not sure. :D
If it's still under warranty request an RMA as described in the video or return to where you purchased it if that's still possible. Opening the base will void your warranty so be careful, if you get accepted for RMA and then once you've sent it to them they see that it had been opened (don't know if they can tell) you might have an issue :)
Kinda stupid but DiRT Rally I'm sort of paranoid about playing with my T300, feels like the more active use a rally game would require might damage the wheel. Billy Strange reckons he's never had any trouble though. I've come to the conclusion that a TS-PC racer unit might be a more durable system...
@@DavyJonesSimRacing ohh well... I just opened it, very carfully though. Dont think I left any marks. Anyway, there is a very small black box thing on the card that has broken off, dont know for sure if that is it though. Dont really know what to do from here. Do you think it is possible to order any spareparts so that I can fix it myself??
@@Blue-X might be possible to replace circuit board parts, perhaps from eBay. post question on sim racing subreddit (/r/simracing) or on racedepartment.com
@@DavyJonesSimRacing ok, I will look it up. Thanks!
Thanks i have a click inside only wen i turn the wheel left the wen the wheel returns to the middle it is not straith anymore 😤 good video thanks for all the additional infos.
UDC-CREW I have this issue for the second time. Gonna have to send it in again
@@David-zq3bv m2 sending tomorrow 😭 in Germany er have to give them 3 chances to repear my wheel is 3 months old darn
@@David-zq3bv no more risk while waiting for the wheel i have ordered fanatec csl elite :P
UDC-CREW mines pretty old. Waiting to hear if they’ll fix it. I may just crack it open and tighten the belt. See if that does the trick.
I’m considering the Fanatec but I have the Sparco pedal set with load cell...lots of money in those pedals. Don’t know if I want to lose all that.
@@David-zq3bv yeah i already invested in the v3 pedals at Black friday so it was easy to Go for csl elite. do sparco have a wheel?
Great Video Davey
i just got mine a week before and i got a clicking noise when i turn left. After seeing this video, im thinking it will be back for some days or weeks and then some issue is going to appear. Not gonna stay with thrustmaster very long i believe....
If you're not sure return it if you can, try the retailer first I mean and then if you can't get a refund or a replacement look into the RMA process...
The clicking is one of the belts (or both) skipping teeth you just have to open the wheelbase and tighten the belt*s the squeaking problem is almost normal on this base it is a belt holder on the bottom right corner ( just screw the holder off and grease it from inside and the squeaking should go away
@@lolmanque1394 only while turning left. I still had like 4 days with it. so i deliver it. People said bad things about this t300 pro, clicking noises, and that happened to me too.
Wondering if anyone has had an issue with the T300RS GT wheel. Everything is working perfectly except the right paddle shifter. It not registering in Thrustmasters program. I took it apart and clicked the clicker by hand, still nothing. So I know its not the paddle or spring at all.
Try and get it replaced or repaired if you are eligible for a warranty repair etc. Taking the unit apart is supposed to void the warranty though. I don't think I've come across such an issue before.
@@DavyJonesSimRacing I found one of the solder connections on the board inside for the right clicker has broken off. I will end up buying a new wheel as I bought it second hand, in very good condition. I will also buy a mini solder kit soon and attempt to solder it myself. (Mechanic by trade)
Good luck and let me know if you get it fixed 😉
My thrustmaster t300 gets really stiff when it is plugged into anything
But when I unplug it becomes real smooth
Are there any fixes for this?
Please it's an expensive piece of tech and I don't want to lose it so early...
Sorry can you outline the issue in more detail? What do you mean by when you plug it into anything, do you mean a game or just plugging it into the mains electricity so that it powers on?
@@DavyJonesSimRacing like when I plug into my computer (or any other computer)it becomes really stiff
It all happened after I was getting ready for a race in AC I got to the track and the wheel suddenly glitched out(it somehow 'reconnected' to the computer)and it became stiff there and there was nothing I could do to get it working again
@@atharvazodpe673 ok so it powers on but does not run the calibration routine when you first plug it in and is otherwise not usable?
@@DavyJonesSimRacing yes, that is what happens sadly :(
@@atharvazodpe673 is there any sign of power entering the base, does the power light come on at all?
It came back no more isues (but for how long) the belt of the moter was to tight the replaced it. Like i said no isues jet i will keep you updated wen something breaks
Ok got it 😉
And now I'm scared to buy this wheel. :P
You might be lucky and experience no issues at all, many have. In all cases buy locally if you can and return for refund or replacement the moment there is any sign of an issue.
Better a tgt or fanatec csl elite with p1 wheel almost same price
Yes, be afraid, be very afraid... I just grabbed one of these used. BIG mistake, it starts making a scary loud grinding/humming noise after just a few minutes of racing.... Previously had a G27 (also bought used), ran it for YEARS with zero issue. This was my first Thrustmaster purchase, it will also be my last.
You should be
I'm about a month away from buying this wheel, or at least that was the plan. This video is causing me a little concern. Its around $500 in Canada, which I feel is enough money to spend and expect real quality in return. The buying from a local retailer tip makes good sense. That puts Walmart at the head of the queue.
If I were you, although it doesn't include pedals as well, or at least the original did not, look perhaps at a Thrustmaster TS-PC racer instead. It's a more powerful motor and mechanism. The original TS-PC Racer came with a F1 style wheel and base only and was PC compatible only I think. There has since been another version released which comes with a Ferrari 488 wheel (and actual rim size I think) also the updated Thrustmaster wheel for the PS4 includes the updated TS-PC base style I think. Or it may be also that the T300 quality has improved over time. Whatever you buy and as I noted in the video check the warranty period, especially from the retailer, best of luck!
Thanks for the advise but the TS-PC racer with pedals is about twice the price of this T300 model. That takes it well beyond my means. If I buy from Walmart I get 90 days to return to store, or perhaps longer if I am persistent. Hopefully I get a good one and not a dud. Thanks again, great video, really good info.
Thrustmaster's global warranty is two years I think, retailer's base warranty should be at least a year, it will depend on the coountry/region and specific retailer of course... if you get the T300 make sure the firmware is up to date as well as making sure you're not force feedback clipping. I included some notes on clipping in my PC sim tutorials (RaceRoom, rFactor2, Assetto Corsa). The latest firmware for the T300 allows the internal cooling fan to come on automatically. As you said the TS-PC racer with pedals is a bit expensive so you'll probably be okay with the the T300. Not your warrantly and RMA options as a back of course, goes the same for any devices you buy, good luck and enjoy!
I'm buying a "lightly" used one with t3pa pedals and a th8a shifter in about 12 hours for 300$ wish me luck
Sounds like a good deal ;)
Thanks a lot for your great video! 🤩
Just order mine (also my first wheel ever), hopefully i don't have to deal with any of the issues.
I got mine recently like a week ago. It works ok , I’m just hesitant about it braking but works well
Uh just buy from amazon? if you have any problems with the wheel you can just contact them instead of having to deal with the bad thrustmaster support
Do they handle anything still under warranty? What were your experiences?
bruh i had my t300 for 3 years fucking about with it an its only now just started having issues but not that bad lol it could be ya settings your using or the way your using the wheel ?? i just have a psu problem or a ffb issue
literally just put my setup together and my wheel doesn’t even have any force feedback. and no other way of figuring out how to fix it unless i wait 15 days for them to email me how to fix it 😐😐😐
Plug it into the wall...
COULD BE THE GAME ALSO. .I WAS HAVING ISSUES WITH FORZA HORIZON 4 WITH NO FFB ON MY 150 PRO. INSTALLED MOTORSPORTS 7 . AND THEN IT WORKED. GUESSING IT WAS THE CONFIG FILE OR FFB FILE FOR THE GAME SOMETIMES T HATHAPPENS
Such an easy fix I get you ruin the actual warranty but if you opened it then wiped off the belt noise is gone I've met so many people with this issue and then do what I said and boom gone lol
Is the T300 considerable better than the DFGT (when it works) ?
Oh definitely yes, way better ;)
Yeah, i still have a DFGT(11 years old and still running) had a T300 for one year and it had the calibration issues.
Got a used T500 that's been on heavy use for years, my 9 months old son broke it, he climbs the cockpit using the wheel as climb point, so not a wheels fault after all.
Now i'm in doubt about the next wheel. I use it on PS4 and tje next gen consoles is a out to arrive. I don't know if i got a used T500 again or a new T300(almost the same price here in Brazilian). There's the TGT but its just too damn expensive here.
Hey guys, 13 months after the release of this video and I am about to order a new wheel and pedal set within this week. Been watching alot of reviews etc. and alot about the t300 series. I am in no way wanting to buy the G29 as its FFB system is really dated and the visuals are too "arcady".
Ive been using a TM Ferrari 458 wheel and pedal set for 4 years and have had no issues and also the reason I want to stick to TM.
Could the past issues have been batch related, has anyone bought this wheel and base set in 2019?
I am going to be buying the T300 RS GT edition.
Batch related or maybe manufacturing quality over time... When buying check retailer's warranty period and return policy. Local retail, I mean one that you can actually visit is best and Amazon I think will allow you to send items back for free within a certain period. And of course Thrustmaster's own RMA should be 2 years globally. Good luck and enjoy the new set 😉
@@DavyJonesSimRacing Cheers man for the reply +1 Sub!
Thanks and appreciated. I will always reply if I can no matter what the question.. I know the pain of a T300 failure and three times at this point 😂
Potjie Kos good luck with that
@@andrewarmstrong8651 One year down the road and the T300 GTE is am absolute gem of a FFB system. Good luck with what ever choice you make besides Thrustmaster in this price range.
I got no problem with t300 since 3 years of hard use.
Lucky you, just bought one and it broke after the second Dirt 2.0 session: lost FFB at first.Then after letting it to cool down it does not calibrate anymore. Even with the calibration software. All in all i played flawlessly about 3 to 4 hours.
My break pedal snapped in half.I got it for Christmas..oI break everything.Not intentionally.i just use it and then some use it some more.,I really don't know how your warranty stuff works.so I guess I'll see what's up ,then go from there.
Sorry can't comment. The uprights for the pedals are strong plastic so should not break and I've used mine with and without the brake pedal mod and never had an issue. If you apply for a warranty repair they will want an explanation of what happened to be convinced that it was a product fault, a quick video of it would help I guess
@@DavyJonesSimRacing I know what your implying.I race stock cars i dont go around stomping on my pedals.it just broke i heard the front break then the rest,one of the layers was just hold it together but i couldnt brake anymore.i fixed it with some screws.works great.
@@DavyJonesSimRacing thanks for taking the time.after looking at past user comments,im lucky i repair things myself.night
Mine just started clicking after 10 months of light use.....no very happy
Get a warranty return or repair if you can
Davy Jones - I started a support ticket today. Not sure how the support will go with the current global situation.
My Thrustmaster T300’s control scheme won’t connect anymore
Sorry can you be more specific? What do you mean by control scheme and it will not connect to what exactly?
Damn Davy... enjoying your first video (for me), but I am STILL am using the LDFGT. So yes, I am what's commonly known as "A Dinosaur" ha, ha,
Hi, heheh I saw your name and my first thought was to comment that I already knew the name because of Mike as SimRacin604 but of course you came via Mike etc ;)
Okay so you're still using a DFGT? My advice is KEEP IT!! and maybe also get the granturgismo.com paddle shifter mods. To be honest I often look at the T300 I have (#3 at this point as in the video) and think I should have kept the DFGT. I mean I am literally afraid to play DiRT Rally in case the T300 dies and most of my Dirt Rally play was using the DFGT and no trouble at all it seems... :)
Great to have you here and thanks for the positive comments, I really appreciate it.. make all the hours staring at a screen worth it, you'll know what I mean :)
hm i would say the 1st was badly assembled , but issues 3 time thats not coincidence...
What can be said? First of all, well done on this video it seems like a long and annoying process. What did you do with the wheel? Did you do some crazy Max Max Mad Super Super Max shitt? lol Not seriously, I've had this set for 6 years now and I can barely hear its fan and I drive non-stop for the most part 100% power. To me, it seems like serious misfortune, or are you a talented genius ?!
You tell me... 😁 No idea... Great comment, many thanks!
Purchased this wheel on march, already died loses FFB strenght and goes off center mid sessions
Hi, sorry do you mean on console or PC and in which sim in particular?
Set playback speed to x1.5. You’re welcome
before i finish the video, it sounds like a slipping/loose belt. i guess we will see
Second problem with Thrustmaster GT...calibration problems and pausing during game then to shared picture screen.
Sorry don't fully understand
Phantom button presses...
sounds like someone stuck a hungry baby animal making subtle 'notice me im hungry' noises inside your wheel.
Thats some rotten luck. I have one myself and know quite a few people who don't have issues with it. But yeah. Be sure to keep your purchase ticket. You can buy online and save a few bucks tho warenty issues will be a hassle. If you buy it in a local store they have to deal with it. Return it to them and its their problem, they are responsable for the products they chose the sell.
i get it, its making a bloody noise
My t300 has the calibration issues ...waste of money dont buy it !
Let's just admit thrustmaster makes shit products that look expensive. Really? A powersupply inside the wheel itself?! I smell burning all the time and now my wheel is totally dead. Fuck TM
I've recently bought a t300rs gt edition 8 weeks ago and in that 8 weeks I've had the wheel and the motor replaced 4 times. So the moral of the story is thrustmaster is nothing but a piece of shit.
Wheel and base replaced four times? By returning to the retailer I assume since sending to Thrustmaster for repair would not be quick enough in my experience 😁
And did you fine-tune the FFB setting or just used it as plug and play device?
@@vojtechnavratil6613 hey I just bought this today and 2 hrs in it’s started to squeak while turning the wheel near center. I’ve set ffb to only 75% in the thrustmaster control panel and 85% strength in project cars 2. Did I do something wrong to make it squeak with such less time played?
1000 subcriber 100 comment. Nice
Thanks :) it states 1K on the channel but on the backend 995 or something, I think there's some kind of subscriber sync issue ongoing...
Your to long screws damaged the base and this frustrated you, how dare you.
im a mechanic my friend its fine the base a speed and brake servos are fine
Keep the ffb setting low
I today bought it and plugged it in and regreat it xD
I will give back this piece of *****
It is not working in games. It is detected in windows and in Assetto Corsa but no buttons and axis work at all.
Wheel every 1-2 seconds just make small 1cm turns to left and right over and over again.
What a joke of a wheel.
Thrustmaster tech support suxs!
I know it well!!
The support in Europe is the best i've ever seen
FiveXS true, my pedals started squeaking a lot and they responded almost instantly with clear instructions on how to repair it myself!
if you want more views, why don't you stop showing us the wheel making noise, you don't have to turn it 50Million times... for this reason, I have no interest in this video... probably
This video should have been less than 5 minutes long. Electrical products breaks during warranty... Return it. Common sense no?
What? 😂 Its intended to help those who have issues with the same product and there are many. It's a complicated device, some break some don't...
I had a problem with my set but I can't send to france due to the covid-19. Can they send a new set for me if I prove everything that my wheel is broken ?
copy of invoice, serial number etc.
I doubt it, contact them and ask