Nice video. I recently pulled out that WFCO from my popup and replaced it with the Progressive Dynamic model for one important reason to me. The PD has LiFePo4 charging capability. Something to keep in mind for anyone looking to upgrade to the Lithium batteries. I now have a brand new WFCO 30amp because this swap was done in a brand new FR Flagstaff.
Do you know why the panel wouldn't charge a LiFePo4? Thinking of making the change to lithium and wanting to male sure my panel will allow charging of course. Thx
Thanks for your video and information along with tips to avoid a possible headache trying to figure out where things go. I will be replacing my elixir junk and put a better unit! Can't wait to go camping and enjoy my camper again!
Hi there! just came across your site, really loving it! We're from Wales, Uk.....Our pop up's tend to be canvas roofed...and called folding campers. It's really interesting seeing all the different take on equipment etc. It's like watching a parallel universe!! Looking forward to catching up on your past vlogs Cheers Steve
Thanks for this! I currently have a 12v power problem and thought it was the battery. Based on testing the leads at the battery with the battery disconnected I'm getting less than 2 volts! something isn't right and looks like I need to replace my WFCO.
My elixir is dead too. Will definitely install one of those unit. As per the other comment, will go with progressive as I have lithium batteries. Interesting no e of these unit a include a charge controller. Will try to figure out how to do that! Thanks
I'm replacing my 8735 P model with the AD auto detect model that's 40 amp instead of 35. This will work with LiPO batteries. After this I'm going to have to figure out how to install a Power Inverter. Can't find any videos on installing one of those in a popup camper.
Great video, i am assuming this wfco is universal? I just acquired a late 90s jayco popup and the converter system is in need of replacement. I would probably have to enlarge the opening for the replacement but it seems straight forward. No AC just just 15 amp
Are you referring to the pig-tail wire that comes from the converter itself? If so, the pig-tail is simply capped off if you don't need it. This is referenced in the installation instructions.
With this converter do you need an transfer switch to run the outlets? I’m looking at replacing the old one in my pop up that no longer works. Or does it automatically switch from 110 to battery power? Thank you.
When you are towing your camper, are there any switches on the camper that need to be off or on? If you could start from the connection from towing vehicle back to camper please!
Good morning...I’m out camping in the cold, in the rain, in Myrtle Beach this weekend...wanted to see what it would do without me using the propane...I’m a scaredy-cat when it comes to propane if you can’t tell...the reason I am bothering you again is because whenever I use the outlets, the fifteen volt breaker keeps going off...I can just use the switch to turn it back on but my family and I are going to be camping for a week in Florida this summer and I need to see if I can fix whatever is causing this...I have a small lamp, a small electric heater and the regular lights going, which are fine until I try to cook or boil water...should I be replacing my converter? Or might it be something else? I have a 2014 flagstaff Mac, which is pretty new and I am confused why it keeps doing this. Thank you again for all the info you put on here...you are the only one I understand most of what you are saying. Karra
Are you using an electric appliance to cook or boil water? If so, you are simply exceeding the maximum amperage on your 15 amp circuit. Try turning off the electric heater while you're cooking. Alternatively, run an extension cord (outdoor/ 15 amp rated) directly to the electric hookup for your space heater so your not running it through your pop up's electrical system.
It's Poppin' - Pop Up Camping Yes, its a little electric water kettle. Well crap..lol, I guess I just thought I could run anything in here while plugged up to shore power...is there anything I can do to upgrade it so that I can run a lot of things in here at once?
Yes, you could upgrade your converter and shore power cord to 50 amp and isolate outlets to their own breaker but then you would have to only camp on 50 amp sites. Try the extra extension cord trick like I mentioned in the previous comment first and see if it works for you.
Awesome video! I’ve got a new to me jayco 1206. The previous owners said they never used a battery just plugged into shore power? Would this cause any issues? Also have you ever seen a pop up that didn’t come with a battery? I’d like to add one and hoping it’s already wired.
Great video I had been wondering. I think my inverter is the original one and I was thinking of upgrading.. My camper is a 2000 camplite popup and I'm sure they didn't have the boost setting back then.. I was wondering if you think its worth the upgrade. We dont boondock for the most part but Im not saying we wont ever. We just usually get places with Hydro
Interesting to note: on a boat, you are not to use wire nuts because of all the movement of the boat, which may loosen the connections. It may also be that exposure to higher humidity may oxidize wires inside the wire nut. They recommend waterproof heat shrink butt connectors. Those do take up less space as well. Just an observation.
I don't recommend either. The butt connectors will also vibrate the crimped wire and break it. Had an old one I did break in the middle of our trip recently. I now just solder everything and heat shrink, or twist the wire together. At least on anything important or concealed.
So I am trying to install this same converter on my Jayco Jay Series 806 pup. On the old Elixir the 30a shore power hot (black) was connected to the breaker bar. On this new converter there is no such connection. Or am I missing that? Where do I connect the AC hot from the 30a shore to the converter?
Actually it looks like this new converter needs a dedicated 30am breaker for the hot line. My pup only has one breaker with 2 poles. I just ordered a dedicated 30a breaker.
I have a 2001 Coleman Elite , it has a stock 20A converter, the question I have is can I swap it out with a 30A converter? If not why? If yes, is there anything I need to do extra to make it work? Do I need to change the outlets?
Not an issue. 20a or 30a are both 120v. The 30a most likely has more branch outputs for dividing up the camper for more devices, etc. But like Poppin' said, you will need to change over to a 30a cord.
Fantastic video - thorough and clear. You’ve got a new subscriber! I’m about to tackle this project and plan to follow it pretty closely with the steps you’ve outlined - honestly a little intimidated to tackle it, so thanks for the great instructions and explanation. Quick question - Any performance issues with your WFCO converter? Still working alright? Thanks!
The instructions say to hook the hot wire to a main breaker but you only had one breaker. The old elixir had a place to hook the hot wire to the breaker bar but this one doesn't. Where did you hook it to?
Hi, I just bought a used 2005 Starcraft Centennial 3606, I'm have a heck of a time trying to find any original equipment parts. Do you have or know of a place that I can look to get some original parts. Thanks Tim.
Our Elixer in our 2005 starcraft pop-up completely melted last year. We were smelling a 'fishy' smell for the day, then at dusk the power went completely out. We weren't drawing that much - we replaced all our 12v lights to LEDs and don't have an air conditioner After investigation, we found that the main breaker had completely melted where it connected to the common bar at the top. The common bar was very tarnished so I surmise the heat generated by resistance due to the buildup of tarnish between the contacts caused heat enough to melt the plastic of the actual breaker. the fishy smell was the plastic getting hot and giving off that odour How it got tarnished? I really don't know - could be humidity or something, but the trailer was stored and maintained correctly for the years that we've had it. we basically gutted the entire trailer after that-ripped out the benches and the kitchenette, ripped out most of the electrical, and just spent this spring rebuilding the interior the way we wanted - removed the stove/sink/water storage as we never used them at all in the trailer--we always cook and stuff outside. we ordered the Progressive Dynamics PD4100 and installed it in the new setup. I've finished most of the wiring--the battery connectors are the final step. We kept the propane detector and the heater from the original installation, and hooked them up and tested. We also reconnected the 12 v lights. We added a USB charging station because we do seem to have lots of devices that always need charging and we replaced the 3 way fridge with a little 120v bar fridge - because of our 'occasional' camping, the 3 way fridge that came with the trailer always seemed too small, and always took too long to cool down after connecting--I would have to plug in the trailer at home the night before we left to go camping and make sure the fridge would be cold before we got to our site the next day. We've already tested everything on just shore power and everything works as expected. The only question left is 'will it charge the battery? - that's the test for next weekend - I just received my order for 10 gauge wire to connect the PD4100 to the battery. So important note - its not necessarily smoke or burning you would smell if you're converter is frying/melting - tho ours did get there. If you detect a fishy odour, check the breakers and verify they're not hot or melting.
My ELX-20 is giving me 110 but nothing on the 12v side so I bought a simple 110 to 12v converter to get my 12v but I'm going to cut the Red, Blue, Brown, Yellow & White wires coming out of the Elixer and just connect them to a fuse block to run my stuff, Not the fridge though. I'm going to leave the fridge on LG and AC. I've already set up a small solar panel that I put in a window to keep my battery charged which my 110 to 12v will also do when plugged in. I won't make a DIY video on it but will make a video when its complete. I've already rigged up a restroom heater with a thermostat that works great. I just unplug the A/C and plug in the heater... simple! ruclips.net/video/Y7gWkizBRvw/видео.html Keep your tips n tricks coming... I binge watch DIY videos all the time.
WFCO is crap! Probably the sorriest converter on the market. I replace more of those, more often than anything else. If you bought it on Amazon, it’s probably a counterfeit.
Thanks for watching! Subscribe for more pop up content!
Nice video. I recently pulled out that WFCO from my popup and replaced it with the Progressive Dynamic model for one important reason to me. The PD has LiFePo4 charging capability. Something to keep in mind for anyone looking to upgrade to the Lithium batteries. I now have a brand new WFCO 30amp because this swap was done in a brand new FR Flagstaff.
Do you know why the panel wouldn't charge a LiFePo4? Thinking of making the change to lithium and wanting to male sure my panel will allow charging of course. Thx
Thanks for your video and information along with tips to avoid a possible headache trying to figure out where things go. I will be replacing my elixir junk and put a better unit! Can't wait to go camping and enjoy my camper again!
Thank you I just finished up wireing that same converter in my pop up thanks for the helpful tips .
Hi there! just came across your site, really loving it!
We're from Wales, Uk.....Our pop up's tend to be canvas roofed...and called folding campers.
It's really interesting seeing all the different take on equipment etc. It's like watching a parallel universe!!
Looking forward to catching up on your past vlogs
Cheers Steve
Thanks for the heads up about the converter. Looks like a project but glad you got it done. Congrats! Just hope I don't have to do it anytime soon.
did you connect the black shore power wire to the breaker bar or directly to a breaker? ive seen both. thanks
Thanks for this! I currently have a 12v power problem and thought it was the battery. Based on testing the leads at the battery with the battery disconnected I'm getting less than 2 volts! something isn't right and looks like I need to replace my WFCO.
My elixir is dead too. Will definitely install one of those unit. As per the other comment, will go with progressive as I have lithium batteries. Interesting no e of these unit a include a charge controller. Will try to figure out how to do that! Thanks
Thank you so much that's what mine is doing no power no ac and churping
I'm replacing my 8735 P model with the AD auto detect model that's 40 amp instead of 35. This will work with LiPO batteries. After this I'm going to have to figure out how to install a Power Inverter. Can't find any videos on installing one of those in a popup camper.
Hey, thanks for the videos, you’ve been pretty quiet. hope all is well!
Does yours have a green light on next to the bottom 40amp?
Great video, i am assuming this wfco is universal? I just acquired a late 90s jayco popup and the converter system is in need of replacement. I would probably have to enlarge the opening for the replacement but it seems straight forward. No AC just just 15 amp
You’ll want to match the amperage of the new converter with the old converter.
At 15:40 you have black wire that’s splinter off where does that connection go , I didn’t have pic for that one
Are you referring to the pig-tail wire that comes from the converter itself? If so, the pig-tail is simply capped off if you don't need it. This is referenced in the installation instructions.
thanks going to replace mine starts chripping when my batt is low but never charges it
I’m so glad I found your channel. You are precise and informative. I have a 2007 Starcraft 2409 pop up. It looks similar to yours.
Thanks!
With this converter do you need an transfer switch to run the outlets? I’m looking at replacing the old one in my pop up that no longer works. Or does it automatically switch from 110 to battery power? Thank you.
When you are towing your camper, are there any switches on the camper that need to be off or on? If you could start from the connection from towing vehicle back to camper please!
Good morning...I’m out camping in the cold, in the rain, in Myrtle Beach this weekend...wanted to see what it would do without me using the propane...I’m a scaredy-cat when it comes to propane if you can’t tell...the reason I am bothering you again is because whenever I use the outlets, the fifteen volt breaker keeps going off...I can just use the switch to turn it back on but my family and I are going to be camping for a week in Florida this summer and I need to see if I can fix whatever is causing this...I have a small lamp, a small electric heater and the regular lights going, which are fine until I try to cook or boil water...should I be replacing my converter? Or might it be something else? I have a 2014 flagstaff Mac, which is pretty new and I am confused why it keeps doing this. Thank you again for all the info you put on here...you are the only one I understand most of what you are saying.
Karra
Are you using an electric appliance to cook or boil water? If so, you are simply exceeding the maximum amperage on your 15 amp circuit. Try turning off the electric heater while you're cooking. Alternatively, run an extension cord (outdoor/
15 amp rated) directly to the electric hookup for your space heater so your not running it through your pop up's electrical system.
It's Poppin' - Pop Up Camping Yes, its a little electric water kettle. Well crap..lol, I guess I just thought I could run anything in here while plugged up to shore power...is there anything I can do to upgrade it so that I can run a lot of things in here at once?
Yes, you could upgrade your converter and shore power cord to 50 amp and isolate outlets to their own breaker but then you would have to only camp on 50 amp sites. Try the extra extension cord trick like I mentioned in the previous comment first and see if it works for you.
@@ItsPoppin I will.. thank you so much!😀
Great video, thanks for all the great information. Will these converters you list here work with a 2006 Starcraft M-13 RT?
Probably, the important thing is the rated amperage being the same.
Great video, job well done!
Awesome video! I’ve got a new to me jayco 1206. The previous owners said they never used a battery just plugged into shore power? Would this cause any issues? Also have you ever seen a pop up that didn’t come with a battery? I’d like to add one and hoping it’s already wired.
No, that won’t cause any issues.
Learned something new - nver heard of a busbar before
I learned some new stuff doing this project too!
Sane terminology on Aircraft. A Bus "BAR" carries the current from a source with multi tie ins.
Great video I had been wondering. I think my inverter is the original one and I was thinking of upgrading.. My camper is a 2000 camplite popup and I'm sure they didn't have the boost setting back then.. I was wondering if you think its worth the upgrade. We dont boondock for the most part but Im not saying we wont ever. We just usually get places with Hydro
Tough call, for $125 that's something you would have to weigh the pros and cons on.
Great video. Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching!
Interesting to note: on a boat, you are not to use wire nuts because of all the movement of the boat, which may loosen the connections. It may also be that exposure to higher humidity may oxidize wires inside the wire nut. They recommend waterproof heat shrink butt connectors. Those do take up less space as well. Just an observation.
I don't recommend either. The butt connectors will also vibrate the crimped wire and break it. Had an old one I did break in the middle of our trip recently. I now just solder everything and heat shrink, or twist the wire together. At least on anything important or concealed.
So I am trying to install this same converter on my Jayco Jay Series 806 pup. On the old Elixir the 30a shore power hot (black) was connected to the breaker bar. On this new converter there is no such connection. Or am I missing that? Where do I connect the AC hot from the 30a shore to the converter?
Actually it looks like this new converter needs a dedicated 30am breaker for the hot line. My pup only has one breaker with 2 poles. I just ordered a dedicated 30a breaker.
What did you connect to the back busbar? I put a new one in and everything works but not getting any 12 v out the DC end?
Off the the top of my head, it should be the ground. Anyone feel free to correct this.
I have a 2001 Coleman Elite , it has a stock 20A converter, the question I have is can I swap it out with a 30A converter? If not why? If yes, is there anything I need to do extra to make it work? Do I need to change the outlets?
I don’t foresee a reason why you couldn’t. However you’d also want to make sure you change out the cord to a 30 amp rated cord.
Not an issue. 20a or 30a are both 120v. The 30a most likely has more branch outputs for dividing up the camper for more devices, etc. But like Poppin' said, you will need to change over to a 30a cord.
Fantastic video - thorough and clear. You’ve got a new subscriber! I’m about to tackle this project and plan to follow it pretty closely with the steps you’ve outlined - honestly a little intimidated to tackle it, so thanks for the great instructions and explanation.
Quick question - Any performance issues with your WFCO converter? Still working alright? Thanks!
We sold that camper last year, but as far as I know, so far so good.
The instructions say to hook the hot wire to a main breaker but you only had one breaker. The old elixir had a place to hook the hot wire to the breaker bar but this one doesn't. Where did you hook it to?
Are you replacing the elixir with a WFCO?
@@ItsPoppin yes, probably the same model as yours..
I get an chipping sound like you had and a very loud alarm
What size is the live that runs back up to the battery i am going through my wiring and notce a little line running from battery to back
Are you asking what Guage our battery wire is? I believe it is 8 ga.
@@ItsPoppin ya mine from battery back is like 14-16 i am redoing the wiring and i was like way to small for battery goimg back into camper
Yeah, you can never go wrong with putting a lower gauge wire in.
@@ItsPoppin think i will put a small one in
Hi, I just bought a used 2005 Starcraft Centennial 3606, I'm have a heck of a time trying to find any original equipment parts. Do you have or know of a place that I can look to get some original parts. Thanks Tim.
In our experience, it really just depends on the part. We've bought stuff from Amazon, Ebay, HannahRV, and eTrailer. What are you looking for?
What about the laud alram
I'm going to look at a westlake pop up today.. Im so excited!!!
Our Elixer in our 2005 starcraft pop-up completely melted last year. We were smelling a 'fishy' smell for the day, then at dusk the power went completely out. We weren't drawing that much - we replaced all our 12v lights to LEDs and don't have an air conditioner
After investigation, we found that the main breaker had completely melted where it connected to the common bar at the top.
The common bar was very tarnished so I surmise the heat generated by resistance due to the buildup of tarnish between the contacts caused heat enough to melt the plastic of the actual breaker.
the fishy smell was the plastic getting hot and giving off that odour
How it got tarnished? I really don't know - could be humidity or something, but the trailer was stored and maintained correctly for the years that we've had it.
we basically gutted the entire trailer after that-ripped out the benches and the kitchenette, ripped out most of the electrical, and just spent this spring rebuilding the interior the way we wanted - removed the stove/sink/water storage as we never used them at all in the trailer--we always cook and stuff outside.
we ordered the Progressive Dynamics PD4100 and installed it in the new setup. I've finished most of the wiring--the battery connectors are the final step.
We kept the propane detector and the heater from the original installation, and hooked them up and tested. We also reconnected the 12 v lights. We added a USB charging station because we do seem to have lots of devices that always need charging and we replaced the 3 way fridge with a little 120v bar fridge - because of our 'occasional' camping, the 3 way fridge that came with the trailer always seemed too small, and always took too long to cool down after connecting--I would have to plug in the trailer at home the night before we left to go camping and make sure the fridge would be cold before we got to our site the next day.
We've already tested everything on just shore power and everything works as expected. The only question left is 'will it charge the battery? - that's the test for next weekend - I just received my order for 10 gauge wire to connect the PD4100 to the battery.
So important note - its not necessarily smoke or burning you would smell if you're converter is frying/melting - tho ours did get there. If you detect a fishy odour, check the breakers and verify they're not hot or melting.
made a quick vid last fall showing the melted breaker and the Elixr 'badness'
ruclips.net/video/vgdwR5EV7Yc/видео.html
My ELX-20 is giving me 110 but nothing on the 12v side so I bought a simple 110 to 12v converter to get my 12v but I'm going to cut the Red, Blue, Brown, Yellow & White wires coming out of the Elixer and just connect them to a fuse block to run my stuff, Not the fridge though. I'm going to leave the fridge on LG and AC.
I've already set up a small solar panel that I put in a window to keep my battery charged which my 110 to 12v will also do when plugged in.
I won't make a DIY video on it but will make a video when its complete.
I've already rigged up a restroom heater with a thermostat that works great. I just unplug the A/C and plug in the heater... simple!
ruclips.net/video/Y7gWkizBRvw/видео.html
Keep your tips n tricks coming... I binge watch DIY videos all the time.
Thanks for the info, electric is scary. 😂
Yeah, no problem!
WFCO is crap! Probably the sorriest converter on the market. I replace more of those, more often than anything else. If you bought it on Amazon, it’s probably a counterfeit.
What would you recommend?
Too often video is out of focus!
Thank you so much that's what mine is doing no power no ac and churping