Just did this on a 2013 escape with 2.0l. This vehicle had 2 turbo control solenoids, one on the valve cover, one by the turbo. Ok the valve cover one was 54 dollars from ford, they swore up and down that was causing my code. Guess what, I bench tested it while waiting for my new part and it worked fine, so I removed solenoid by the turbo and it was split and seized. Ok called Ford back and was told that solenoid was 284 dollars . Here's where it gets interesting, the manufacturer part number was the same on both solenoids, but the ford pn was different. Side by side same. Resistance of coil same. So I installed cheaper valve cover solenoid in turbo location, guess what?no more code and turbo worked perfectly. Called ford back, turns out turbo location solenoid comes with new hoses attached, thus the extra money! Who knew vacuum hoses cost so much?😂
I think sometimes the dealer price list has a genuine mistake - but there's no way to get the feedback to where it matters. That was great deductive reasoning and detective work on your part!
@@wolveric0 I would say it's because the "Part Only No Hoses" is what is normally packaged and provided FORD. Including the "Part With Hoses" (At FORDS request), is a separate operation, a new part number, requiring labor, different packaging, different routing, shipping and distribution.
Hi Ivan - Just a tip for you. A variable solenoid cannot be tested on a DC power supply (yes it did show you that the 2 parts performed very differently) but it will not allow the solenoid to open to a mid point, it will only ever fully open or close on a DC voltage. So the Pierburg/Chinesium might be fully working, you were just not able to prove it on the bench
@@michaelminauro4180With PWM, it pulses the power, which allows for it to "float" in a partially open state, vs straight DC which will result in full on or off.
When testing solenoids that are controlled by a PWM signal you should be using an actual PWM signal to test them. Something like a PWM signal generator that can handle at least a few amps of current or an injector tester with a variable or changeable "pulse width" (and frequency would be great) would work way better as a test than a variable voltage bench power supply that is supplying a constant voltage and not a pulsed signal.
A PWM signal generator for testing could be assembled for real cheap with a "DROK Signal Generator" from Amazon and one of the MOSFET kits from Amazon like "5PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET." Would work with injectors and PWM variable solenoids. You can also use a scope to compare control signals from a PCM/ECU/TCM.
Your a better man than I am Ivan! Answering all the questions in the comments section is getting to be a bigger headache than fixing the Ford EcoBoot! Jesus people, everybody is an expert!!!!
The aftermarket parts strike back 🙂 Great job, Ivan! Pierburg is a reliable manufacturer - if the part is legit, it should be as good as the Ford assembly that uses it. Something tells me the fuel pressure is getting ready to enter stage - Part 3 is going to be interesting 🙂 PS: Just a side note - when you power an electric motor or a solenoid, with variable DC voltage, it's not the same as powering it at a steady DC voltage (in this case 12V) with PWM. With PWM you always get max power / torque, only varying the time it is on, while with variable DC voltage, you get much less power / torque below the nominal DC voltage.
Ivan, I'm concerned about the oil on those connectors. You might want to unplug the pcm and other random sensors within the furl circuit. As a transmission guy I've seen so many bad connectors/sensors WICK UP oil through the harness and even fill a computer. Perhaps a oil sensor could be bad wicking oil. Just a thought. Oil in the pcm could be the random die out issue.
I've never seen that on a car sensor yet - but have on a machine tool, an optical position encoder - the casing half full of oil, wicked up from a connector resting in an oil pool, through two metres of cable! Very good point, I can certainly see it happening if one part has a bad seal.
You bring up the true down side of cheap ebay or amazon made in china aftermarket parts. As far as this Ford is concerned, these sort of dubious cheap parts were most likely installed by the shop which "worked" on this vehicle after its expensive, useless trips to the Ford dealership. A real racket that is going on at many, many shops is talking customers into replacing sensors, etc., and then installing the cheapest made in china parts, but charging these unsuspecting customers for OEM. In other words shops are making more money by price gouging customers on parts than on repairs. This is why any time you go to a shop and they replace any parts you should ask for the old ones, because there is an extremely good chance these cheap chinese parts will fail and or that there was nothing wrong with the parts that were replaced in the first place.
I had a boost control solenoid on a Ford wracking my brain. Turned out someone had already replaced it with a non OEM part. But then the lines were routed incorrectly. Eventually figured out the routing through deduction. But it was definitely a head scratcher.
I have the same solonoid in my Volvo gone bad about 3 times. Apparently quality ain't wait it used to be. The one I have now is a aftermarket but abit more heavy duty.
It’s always the worst right when you think you’ve solved a problem and the car just laughs and says “oh, you thought you knew what was wrong with me?”…..it’s a gut punch when that happens.
Love it. Ivan, one of my bandmates bought himself a brand new Jeep Rubicon in 2020 and I warned him that he was going to be plagued with electrical issues. Well, he blames me now for cursing him. That Jeep has spent more time at the dealer for dead battery issues than it has spent in his driveway. This week they told him they replaced the batteries, AGAIN, and that it was his aftermarket camera drawing several amps. He told them that they have been going rounds about this since before the camera was installed. So it looks like I am going to get a crack at it next week. He asked me at practice last night if I had a way to test for a draw. I said "Do fat babies fart? How am I gonna do my job without the proper tools?" Most of those dealership boys have been at this for a few years, a decade at most. I am almost 40 years into this career, and I watch PHAD. Bring it on. ;)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics A little (very little) research finds that the ESS systems on these things are garbage. We shall see if that is the culprit or not. ;)
@@HelicopterDad-u5b Yeah, well, I don't get to name them so I just call it whatever the label says. XD I have a customer with a 2000 LUMINA, and he took all the letters off the back and reversed them, so now he drives a Chevy ANIMUL. XD
The solenoid behavior is normal. The voltage is needed for the solenoid to do anything, the degree of opening and closing is controlled by the amount of current passing through, which is regulated by the PWM signal. So it not being perfectly proportional to the voltage is normal, the OEM would do the same. The hysteresis of the Dorman solenoid was probably causing the problem as it did not allow the ECU to maintain a smooth pressure control, it had to 'overcontrol' to see an effect. The big difference between OEM and aftermarket is the voltage and current characteristics and most ECUs are pretty sensitive about those. I had an aftermarket EGR valve which didn't move at all when I plugged it in while the OEM one was moving as it should when I tested it with bidirectional controls.
Ivan, a part costs what it costs. I know you have problems with that sometimes wanting to balance making money and charging the customer a reasonable price. GREAT VIDEO!
Your test method on the solenoid is wrong, but still shows a substantial difference between the crap part and the OEM part. Obviously the test drive showed this to be the case too.
Dorman supplies a lot of OE parts for Chrysler if not others such as the conductor plate in the 5 speed Mercedes automatic transmission that Chrysler used. The wheel speed sensor I bought from the dealer I'm convinced was also a Dorman part. It worked.
Pulse width can not be tested by a variable voltage, pulse width modulation is 0 volt 12 volt but changing the width of the pulse. with the pulses that could be up to khz in frequency. checking with a dc power supply wont work
Great stuff. The minute I saw Pierburg, me heart sank slightly. About mid 80's the US had already gone over to fuel injection we had "electronically controlled carburettors" and the Pierburgs on VWs and Audis (SEATS were still FIATS and Skodas were entertaining death traps) were a never ending pain. On a Leyland car you could remove the 'tronic bits from the SU carb easily but the Pierburg needed a Weber conversion which might work or might not. I don't think you can buy a Tranny Connect with a petrol engine in the UK, but worry not, the new ones are re-badged VW Caddys so they will be just fine with no problems at all. 😉
Ivan, you are like a young Doc Brown from the Back to the Future movies. You really dig into the new technologies and figure out how they work with DIY solutions and you are suspicious of dubious parts from the third world. 😅 Love it!
Pulse width is variable rate of pulse width we pulsed voltages at timed rate so it is very fast rates. The solenoid with wire and windings and material can make a difference with a lazy valve.
Without watching the rest of the video, it seems to me the boost control solenoid audibly pushed the blow-off valve off early during the prior video (you noted the noise at 34:50)
I've been dealing with garbage parts for last few years has gotten really bad .but I tried oem and 5 other brands but Dorman was the only oil sensor that lasted more than a few days or months over 2 years no problems
My one and only experience with a Dorman part was for a Ford Edge mirror motor. What a POS. It worked but was noisy and moved the mirror so fast that I couldn't control where the mirror was without going back and forth a bunch of times. It turned out to be a bad connection, so I replaced the original motor.
All aftermarket parts are NOT junk. You are actually firing an ZOEM parts cannon. Why not replace parts one at a time and check results rather than blame EVERY non oem part?
To test this correctly you would use a PWM DC controller and a flow meter on the downstream side, AND, it would have to agree with a known good OEM solenoid that you tested using the same method. It may be sufficient to just test it for open and close since the boost pressure sensor is supposed to control that pressure map.
IF YOU ARE A NEWBIE TECH JUST STARTING OUT IN SCHOOL --- You gotta find channels like this PHAD and set aside time to watch. Doing so will confirm: (-1-) You can't violate the laws of physics. (-2-) Diagnose rather than parts cannon. (-3-) Always SUSPECT new parts = N-ever E-ver W-orked. RE: "if it has wires and controls driveability ALWAYS choose OEM." (-4-) Just like doctors & medicine resolve that you gotta stay current with periodic retraining and constant learning. O M G Gotta take parts off the car to then BENCH TEST THEM ?? Y I K E S 😵 Remember -- Back to the Future?? Doc: "Well there's your problem. It's made in JAPAN!" Marty: "What ah ya mean Doc? All the BEST STUFF is made in Japan!" MORAL OF THE STORY -- China can really change their standing if they'd CONCENTRATE on Q*U*A*L*I*T*Y re: Deming Quality Control.
Oil inside of the ECT sensors is major sus to me. Obviously the oil pressure sender is leaking oil pressure into the wiring harness. I wonder if any of that made it back to the PCM? Sounds like PCM issues due to the random issues and intermittent fuel cut off at the rail. These pumps are mechanically driven so unless the lobe is plumb wore out, the solenoid is erratic, or the PCM driving it is. Gotta watch till the end to find out the real cause.
Depends on what it is. Think of an electric dc heater strip. That can be pulse width modulated by a controller without any detectable buzz. Think of alternating current circuits in the home. They are by default PWM. They all buzz. There is a 60 cycle hum. But you aren't necessarily going to hear it unless you have an amp and speaker to pick it up. Or if you have a habbit of hanging out near large transformer stations.
You need a signal generator to properly verify these parts as they open and close rapidly with a pulse width. Not the same as applying a constant voltage. Pulse width control applies full voltage but for only a millisecond then 0v for a millisecond the variable is the time between full voltage
These gate control and waste gate valves are identical to mazda cx5 😢they do the same thing 😢have to replace them quite often 😢and expensive...cheers ivan
Ford stealership charged my friend for a purge valve assembly that they didn't touch. The CEL came back on in a week and the "new" valve was leaking. Couldn't find an valve or oem assembly online, called Ford and they hadn't even started making that part yet. (This was covid era and the car was a 4 year old rare motor combo)
No you don't, these valves do not operate in a proportional mode. They are either fully open or fully closed, the average open time (which follows the PWM duty cycle) gives an averaged boost signal to the actuator.
@ If they are truly a pulse wave modulated valve then they vary the amount of pressure or vacuum allowed through. In ordered to do that the valve won’t just be fully open or closed. If it’s just an open or closed valve then it’s not PWM and doesn’t need PWM drive to test it.
I was really thinking this video would be about the coolant or oil ingress into the harness and or the ECU. Seems like a problem in the making. I remember when I worked at the VW dealer we discovered coolant temp sensors leaking internally driving coolant into the fan control module and ECU. Also given these engines have head gasket sealing issues I’m betting the A/F sensor died from coolant flashing off the sensing thimble of the A/F sensor when the ECU turned on the heater circuit. Again another problem in the making.
Your power supply is supplying a constant voltage and constant current to those solenoids. Supplying a pwm signal would cycle the solenoid on and off for short times depending on the frequency its modulated at.. talking speed in herts so they will flutter varying the output depending on the pwm pulse its given via the ecu..
PWM is just an easy way for a computer to produce a steady average voltage 0-12V range. Think of a PWM fuel pump driver: 50% duty cycle is exactly equivalent to supplying the pump with a steady analog 6V :)
It makes no difference, the PWM is quite a low frequency and the valve is driven to a fully on or fully off state. A PWM signal would have made diagnosing the huge magnetic hysteresis much harder compared to using the power supply.
PWM is voltage modulation, just binary rather than continuous. Makes no difference for testing as the valve is always fully on or fully off even when driven by PWM.
I always ask parts history and how much and where it was bought and if parts were thrown at it i have them bring oem parts they removed and go from that point on for diagnosing
Great video. It's crazy that they would put such a small engine in a van. Oh and I'm from just over the mountain from you in Lock Haven area. Love the channel.
_"such a small engine"_ It's not a particularly small engine, and its also a relatively small van. The 1.6 ecoboost makes 150bhp, more than enough for this vehicle.
@ferrumignis As long as it makes who purchased it happy then it's good. But for me, nothin smaller than a 6 cylinder would work for me. Preferably at least a 4 liter engine.
@@ferrumignis Not going to argue with you. If you like it, get it. But for me, I'll get something with a bit bigger engine. To use a small engine and then add a turbo, for more power, just works that smaller engine that much more. You can have the floor now, not going to argue with ya.
Just did this on a 2013 escape with 2.0l. This vehicle had 2 turbo control solenoids, one on the valve cover, one by the turbo. Ok the valve cover one was 54 dollars from ford, they swore up and down that was causing my code. Guess what, I bench tested it while waiting for my new part and it worked fine, so I removed solenoid by the turbo and it was split and seized. Ok called Ford back and was told that solenoid was 284 dollars . Here's where it gets interesting, the manufacturer part number was the same on both solenoids, but the ford pn was different. Side by side same. Resistance of coil same. So I installed cheaper valve cover solenoid in turbo location, guess what?no more code and turbo worked perfectly. Called ford back, turns out turbo location solenoid comes with new hoses attached, thus the extra money! Who knew vacuum hoses cost so much?😂
@@scottnusser6232 Amazing lol!
I think sometimes the dealer price list has a genuine mistake - but there's no way to get the feedback to where it matters. That was great deductive reasoning and detective work on your part!
The manufacturer that supplies the part assembly with hoses to FORD is the one making the $$ on that, not FORD.
@@additudeobx agree, i had the same idea in mind, most likely the one with the hoses attached is in more demand causing the high price.
@@wolveric0 I would say it's because the "Part Only No Hoses" is what is normally packaged and provided FORD. Including the "Part With Hoses" (At FORDS request), is a separate operation, a new part number, requiring labor, different packaging, different routing, shipping and distribution.
Hi Ivan - Just a tip for you.
A variable solenoid cannot be tested on a DC power supply (yes it did show you that the 2 parts performed very differently) but it will not allow the solenoid to open to a mid point, it will only ever fully open or close on a DC voltage.
So the Pierburg/Chinesium might be fully working, you were just not able to prove it on the bench
What is the difference between the voltage out of his variable meter and the voltage out of the computer on the car
Hince the pwm control. Which is a rapidly switching constant voltage.
You can buy cheap PWM drivers. that will allow you to test the solenoid.
You're RIGHT: the bench test showed a DIFFERENCE between parts...
@@michaelminauro4180With PWM, it pulses the power, which allows for it to "float" in a partially open state, vs straight DC which will result in full on or off.
Wishing Ivan and his wife a very merry Christmas 🎅 from UK 🇬🇧
🇺🇸
Good for you sticking with this problem. It is especially good that the customer stuck with you to repair the problem/problems.
Just when you think it's all over there's actually more excitement to look forward to!
When testing solenoids that are controlled by a PWM signal you should be using an actual PWM signal to test them. Something like a PWM signal generator that can handle at least a few amps of current or an injector tester with a variable or changeable "pulse width" (and frequency would be great) would work way better as a test than a variable voltage bench power supply that is supplying a constant voltage and not a pulsed signal.
Agree, I fried a solenoid using method Ivan used. You need s PWM modulator. You can buy or make one cheap
A PWM signal generator for testing could be assembled for real cheap with a "DROK Signal Generator" from Amazon and one of the MOSFET kits from Amazon like "5PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET." Would work with injectors and PWM variable solenoids. You can also use a scope to compare control signals from a PCM/ECU/TCM.
What's the difference? The solenoid just cares about the AVERAGE field. Doesn't matter if it's PWM or analog 😉
That's exactly what I thought too.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsit "buzzes" it on and off.. like a fuel injector.
Your a better man than I am Ivan! Answering all the questions in the comments section is getting to be a bigger headache than fixing the Ford EcoBoot! Jesus people, everybody is an expert!!!!
If it is a real Pierburg part, it's not Chinesium, maybe Pierburg also ships with bubble plastic, Pierburg is a respectable company.
Chinesium packaging
The aftermarket parts strike back 🙂 Great job, Ivan! Pierburg is a reliable manufacturer - if the part is legit, it should be as good as the Ford assembly that uses it.
Something tells me the fuel pressure is getting ready to enter stage - Part 3 is going to be interesting 🙂
PS: Just a side note - when you power an electric motor or a solenoid, with variable DC voltage, it's not the same as powering it at a steady DC voltage (in this case 12V) with PWM. With PWM you always get max power / torque, only varying the time it is on, while with variable DC voltage, you get much less power / torque below the nominal DC voltage.
For electric parts, such as MAF and o2 sensors and coils always use OEM or the. OEM brand (NGK, Denso etc)
That's good advice for pretty much any sensor or actuator.
Most boost solenoids are the on/off type.
The PWM is slow.... around 10 to 20 hertz
'Flakey Pastry' van.
I had a feeling that you wouldn't 'choux' it away so easily.
Looking forward to more served up slices.
Merry Christmas Ivan, love your content.
OEM only parts. As much as we hate to use them, they work. Not always, but better than Dorman junk!
On to part 3.
With you and others doing field testing for Dorman they might be very good at making replacement parts.
Ivan, I'm concerned about the oil on those connectors. You might want to unplug the pcm and other random sensors within the furl circuit. As a transmission guy I've seen so many bad connectors/sensors WICK UP oil through the harness and even fill a computer. Perhaps a oil sensor could be bad wicking oil. Just a thought. Oil in the pcm could be the random die out issue.
I've never seen that on a car sensor yet - but have on a machine tool, an optical position encoder - the casing half full of oil, wicked up from a connector resting in an oil pool, through two metres of cable!
Very good point, I can certainly see it happening if one part has a bad seal.
You bring up the true down side of cheap ebay or amazon made in china aftermarket parts. As far as this Ford is concerned, these sort of dubious cheap parts were most likely installed by the shop which "worked" on this vehicle after its expensive, useless trips to the Ford dealership. A real racket that is going on at many, many shops is talking customers into replacing sensors, etc., and then installing the cheapest made in china parts, but charging these unsuspecting customers for OEM. In other words shops are making more money by price gouging customers on parts than on repairs. This is why any time you go to a shop and they replace any parts you should ask for the old ones, because there is an extremely good chance these cheap chinese parts will fail and or that there was nothing wrong with the parts that were replaced in the first place.
Great video Ivan. We're lucky to have you work on cars, especially my exotics.
A friend of mine had that engine in his Ford and it was non stop issues. Great job Ivan keep it up.
When you think the case is solved, then dun dun dun... the EcoBoost bites back.
wow: at least 5 more episodes to get us to Christmas and possibly beyond?
Dorman hard parts as usually good, I've learned not to use any electrical parts for them.
just getting warmed up eh? ...... cool !
I like wings on the shame!
I had a boost control solenoid on a Ford wracking my brain. Turned out someone had already replaced it with a non OEM part. But then the lines were routed incorrectly. Eventually figured out the routing through deduction. But it was definitely a head scratcher.
I have the same solonoid in my Volvo gone bad about 3 times. Apparently quality ain't wait it used to be. The one I have now is a aftermarket but abit more heavy duty.
Bugs in December? You must be having a real easy winter.
Nope, he just needs an update. seems there's a bug in the scanner
It’s always the worst right when you think you’ve solved a problem and the car just laughs and says “oh, you thought you knew what was wrong with me?”…..it’s a gut punch when that happens.
Cars like that definitely make this job exciting 😁
Love it. Ivan, one of my bandmates bought himself a brand new Jeep Rubicon in 2020 and I warned him that he was going to be plagued with electrical issues. Well, he blames me now for cursing him. That Jeep has spent more time at the dealer for dead battery issues than it has spent in his driveway. This week they told him they replaced the batteries, AGAIN, and that it was his aftermarket camera drawing several amps. He told them that they have been going rounds about this since before the camera was installed. So it looks like I am going to get a crack at it next week. He asked me at practice last night if I had a way to test for a draw. I said "Do fat babies fart? How am I gonna do my job without the proper tools?" Most of those dealership boys have been at this for a few years, a decade at most. I am almost 40 years into this career, and I watch PHAD. Bring it on. ;)
Sounds like a fun diagnosis! Good luck! 😊
This is not a jeep
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics A little (very little) research finds that the ESS systems on these things are garbage. We shall see if that is the culprit or not. ;)
@@HelicopterDad-u5b Yeah, well, I don't get to name them so I just call it whatever the label says. XD I have a customer with a 2000 LUMINA, and he took all the letters off the back and reversed them, so now he drives a Chevy ANIMUL. XD
The solenoid behavior is normal. The voltage is needed for the solenoid to do anything, the degree of opening and closing is controlled by the amount of current passing through, which is regulated by the PWM signal. So it not being perfectly proportional to the voltage is normal, the OEM would do the same. The hysteresis of the Dorman solenoid was probably causing the problem as it did not allow the ECU to maintain a smooth pressure control, it had to 'overcontrol' to see an effect.
The big difference between OEM and aftermarket is the voltage and current characteristics and most ECUs are pretty sensitive about those. I had an aftermarket EGR valve which didn't move at all when I plugged it in while the OEM one was moving as it should when I tested it with bidirectional controls.
Dorman garbage to the rescue!!! Thanks Ivan.
Good video, can’t wait for the stalling problem diagnosis.
Ivan: "Is the stalling issue going to come back or not?"
Me: Um yea of course, because it's the multi-part Christmas special. Lol.
Ivan, a part costs what it costs. I know you have problems with that sometimes wanting to balance making money and charging the customer a reasonable price. GREAT VIDEO!
Your test method on the solenoid is wrong, but still shows a substantial difference between the crap part and the OEM part. Obviously the test drive showed this to be the case too.
I'm betting there is no Dorman sponsorship in your future.
My favorite part of this channel is that as of now, 5,748 people got to hear Ivan rip on Dorman!
Dorman supplies a lot of OE parts for Chrysler if not others such as the conductor plate in the 5 speed Mercedes automatic transmission that Chrysler used. The wheel speed sensor I bought from the dealer I'm convinced was also a Dorman part. It worked.
Eric o says about Dorman parts made by Van Halen
[4:47] After replacing the sensor, the lambda value still occasionally jumps up to 2. Isn't this an intermittent circuitry problem?
@@watchmakerful that's decel fuel cut 😊
STFT is still spiking quite high too, up near 30%. I bet we'll see Ivan digging into that before this is over.
Pulse width can not be tested by a variable voltage, pulse width modulation is 0 volt 12 volt but changing the width of the pulse. with the pulses that could be up to khz in frequency. checking with a dc power supply wont work
Dorman not a sponsor 😂
you go above and beyond...i love your vids.
Great stuff. The minute I saw Pierburg, me heart sank slightly. About mid 80's the US had already gone over to fuel injection we had "electronically controlled carburettors" and the Pierburgs on VWs and Audis (SEATS were still FIATS and Skodas were entertaining death traps) were a never ending pain. On a Leyland car you could remove the 'tronic bits from the SU carb easily but the Pierburg needed a Weber conversion which might work or might not. I don't think you can buy a Tranny Connect with a petrol engine in the UK, but worry not, the new ones are re-badged VW Caddys so they will be just fine with no problems at all. 😉
Your videos are always filled with such warmth and kindness! Thank you for your great sense of humor and ability to share your joy!🦖⚫️🎱
Fix Or Repair Daily; This van takes the cake!
Guessing early, leaky DI injector
I'm seeing a bit more oil around that turbo than I'd like.
The master has. Done it again 👊🏻
Ivan, you are like a young Doc Brown from the Back to the Future movies. You really dig into the new technologies and figure out how they work with DIY solutions and you are suspicious of dubious parts from the third world. 😅 Love it!
Pulse width is variable rate of pulse width we pulsed voltages at timed rate so it is very fast rates. The solenoid with wire and windings and material can make a difference with a lazy valve.
Without watching the rest of the video, it seems to me the boost control solenoid audibly pushed the blow-off valve off early during the prior video (you noted the noise at 34:50)
Curious about the oil in the connectors that are maybe caused by capillary action inside the wire harness.
Send doorman a thank you card for helping you pay the rent.
I've been dealing with garbage parts for last few years has gotten really bad .but I tried oem and 5 other brands but Dorman was the only oil sensor that lasted more than a few days or months over 2 years no problems
My one and only experience with a Dorman part was for a Ford Edge mirror motor. What a POS. It worked but was noisy and moved the mirror so fast that I couldn't control where the mirror was without going back and forth a bunch of times. It turned out to be a bad connection, so I replaced the original motor.
All aftermarket parts are NOT junk. You are actually firing an ZOEM parts cannon. Why not replace parts one at a time and check results rather than blame EVERY non oem part?
Dorman, Not a sponsor. 🤣🤣
Nice video Ivan.
Hey thanks is there any way to test the new one before putting it in
It’s 5 am here in Illinois early bird catches the worm get up early and go get it.
But the second mouse gets the cheese.
The third watches the first 2 get diabetes fighting over food and gets the fug outta there..
To test this correctly you would use a PWM DC controller and a flow meter on the downstream side, AND, it would have to agree with a known good OEM solenoid that you tested using the same method. It may be sufficient to just test it for open and close since the boost pressure sensor is supposed to control that pressure map.
👀🤔 Ivan that's not nice keeping me in suspense. 😅
You are the man and my favorite RUclips diagnostic guy. 😊
IF YOU ARE A NEWBIE TECH JUST STARTING OUT IN SCHOOL --- You gotta find channels like this PHAD and set aside time to watch. Doing so will confirm:
(-1-) You can't violate the laws of physics.
(-2-) Diagnose rather than parts cannon.
(-3-) Always SUSPECT new parts = N-ever E-ver W-orked. RE: "if it has wires and controls driveability ALWAYS choose OEM."
(-4-) Just like doctors & medicine resolve that you gotta stay current with periodic retraining and constant learning.
O M G
Gotta take parts off the car to then BENCH TEST THEM ??
Y I K E S 😵
Remember -- Back to the Future??
Doc: "Well there's your problem. It's made in JAPAN!"
Marty: "What ah ya mean Doc? All the BEST STUFF is made in Japan!"
MORAL OF THE STORY -- China can really change their standing if they'd CONCENTRATE on Q*U*A*L*I*T*Y
re: Deming Quality Control.
Rockauto has the Pierburg for $60
Ivan do not trust the data on your scanner,
I saw your scanner has a bug 😂😂😂
Saw that too😂
Pierberg are good people, German firm, I hope they still make their own stuff.
Oil inside of the ECT sensors is major sus to me. Obviously the oil pressure sender is leaking oil pressure into the wiring harness. I wonder if any of that made it back to the PCM? Sounds like PCM issues due to the random issues and intermittent fuel cut off at the rail. These pumps are mechanically driven so unless the lobe is plumb wore out, the solenoid is erratic, or the PCM driving it is. Gotta watch till the end to find out the real cause.
I thought pulse modulation "buzzed" it on and off like a fuel injector..
It does, though it's quite a low frequency PWM so more of a rapid clicking than a buzz.
Depends on what it is. Think of an electric dc heater strip. That can be pulse width modulated by a controller without any detectable buzz.
Think of alternating current circuits in the home. They are by default PWM.
They all buzz. There is a 60 cycle hum. But you aren't necessarily going to hear it unless you have an amp and speaker to pick it up. Or if you have a habbit of hanging out near large transformer stations.
You can get bad OEM parts also. Best thing to do is bench test all parts if possible before install.
Your videos are always so interesting and helpful! Thank you for your creativity and willingness to share your knowledge with us!😘🌏🌚
You need a signal generator to properly verify these parts as they open and close rapidly with a pulse width. Not the same as applying a constant voltage. Pulse width control applies full voltage but for only a millisecond then 0v for a millisecond the variable is the time between full voltage
Incorrect. The solenoid doesn't "buzz"at the PWM frequency... That would be physically impossible!
These gate control and waste gate valves are identical to mazda cx5 😢they do the same thing 😢have to replace them quite often 😢and expensive...cheers ivan
Every time I hear claims that none of the aftermarket MAF sensors will work, it tells me you have a fuel pump related problem.
This is a hundred times more interesting than drones and all the idiots trying to explain that cluster (thing) . Really enjoying this one Ivan. 👍👍🇺🇸
If Dorman gets shut down. The majority of the parts stores will be out of business 😂😂
Ford stealership charged my friend for a purge valve assembly that they didn't touch. The CEL came back on in a week and the "new" valve was leaking. Couldn't find an valve or oem assembly online, called Ford and they hadn't even started making that part yet. (This was covid era and the car was a 4 year old rare motor combo)
Sounds about right for a stealership, they strive to reinforce their terrible reputation.
I replaced the CPS in my 2002 Mercedes SLK 320 with a Hitachi instead of the OEM Bosh unit.
Funny how critical it is to replace oem parts that fail early with another oem part.
Will do..
About the waste gate actuater solenoïde maybe there are a few different values for different sized turbos. . Just got the wrong one. . 🤔
Would've been good to see if you could get better control of the solenoid with the bidirectional control
You need a PWM driver to test those valves, pretty cheap to pick a 12v one from ebay.
No you don't, these valves do not operate in a proportional mode. They are either fully open or fully closed, the average open time (which follows the PWM duty cycle) gives an averaged boost signal to the actuator.
@ If they are truly a pulse wave modulated valve then they vary the amount of pressure or vacuum allowed through. In ordered to do that the valve won’t just be fully open or closed. If it’s just an open or closed valve then it’s not PWM and doesn’t need PWM drive to test it.
I was really thinking this video would be about the coolant or oil ingress into the harness and or the ECU. Seems like a problem in the making. I remember when I worked at the VW dealer we discovered coolant temp sensors leaking internally driving coolant into the fan control module and ECU. Also given these engines have head gasket sealing issues I’m betting the A/F sensor died from coolant flashing off the sensing thimble of the A/F sensor when the ECU turned on the heater circuit. Again another problem in the making.
Use your differential compression tester .
Great result ,wishing you a Merry Christmas and all the best for 2025🎅🧑🏼🎄🤶
On No! Theres more?? Sorry Ivan.
Your power supply is supplying a constant voltage and constant current to those solenoids. Supplying a pwm signal would cycle the solenoid on and off for short times depending on the frequency its modulated at.. talking speed in herts so they will flutter varying the output depending on the pwm pulse its given via the ecu..
PWM is just an easy way for a computer to produce a steady average voltage 0-12V range. Think of a PWM fuel pump driver: 50% duty cycle is exactly equivalent to supplying the pump with a steady analog 6V :)
It makes no difference, the PWM is quite a low frequency and the valve is driven to a fully on or fully off state. A PWM signal would have made diagnosing the huge magnetic hysteresis much harder compared to using the power supply.
Love your channel. How the heck do you drive-film-adjust scanner pids all at same time? Been a subscriber for a long time :)
Nice. I hope the surge stays fixed.
I didn't hear any fat lady sing, so we know this isn't over.
The Fat lady owns the van😂😂
Ivan, did you get that scan tool updated to the old program? I had the same problem with mine, the update sucked, parked it and got a topdon.
Is it pulse width modulated or simply voltage modulated?
PWM is voltage modulation, just binary rather than continuous. Makes no difference for testing as the valve is always fully on or fully off even when driven by PWM.
All it takes is a lazy sesnsor or solenoid to set up an oscillation. Any component of a system can do this.
yep oem all the time
I always ask parts history and how much and where it was bought and if parts were thrown at it i have them bring oem parts they removed and go from that point on for diagnosing
All ecoboost engines are doomed to early failure.
Seems there's a bug in the scanner. Better get an update.
Great video. It's crazy that they would put such a small engine in a van. Oh and I'm from just over the mountain from you in Lock Haven area. Love the channel.
_"such a small engine"_
It's not a particularly small engine, and its also a relatively small van. The 1.6 ecoboost makes 150bhp, more than enough for this vehicle.
@ferrumignis
As long as it makes who purchased it happy then it's good. But for me, nothin smaller than a 6 cylinder would work for me. Preferably at least a 4 liter engine.
@@HayesTech 4 litre engine in a little van like a Ford Connect? This is why the US mindset on engines is so hilarious to Europeans.
@@ferrumignis
Not going to argue with you. If you like it, get it. But for me, I'll get something with a bit bigger engine. To use a small engine and then add a turbo, for more power, just works that smaller engine that much more. You can have the floor now, not going to argue with ya.
Officer 👮 states “Sir were you using scan tool while driving?”
Dorman
Doesn't Operate Reliably Modifications Are Necessary
How can Dorman still be in business?
Because of a very high percentage of very low IQ auto shop owners.