Thank you for the demonstrations. That tooling is very beautiful Denny. I'm really digging those ostrich knees, especially that you have them available as "blank canvas". So many possibilities.
You did not tell us what you sprayed on after the antique dried. All I saw was a can snd you said ,"Masters". What is that? Is that lacquer, like SaddleLac?
If the paste dries, which is what I find my projects doing with multi tasking, I deploy Fiebing's Tan Kote to wipe off the dried excess. Do not apply too much pressure in wiping off the dried excess. Allow the Tan Kote to dry and buff lightly with a cloth or shoe brush. I really like the Fiebing's paste....great product!
Hi guys, enjoyed your videos. Question: did you just use regular red acrylic craft paint? I have a lot of craft paint I'd like to use up but wanted to know if the paint would crack? Or what paint would you recommend?
Rusty used Angelus paint for this project: springfieldleather.com/Paint-Angelus-Red-4oz Angelus is an office favorite, but we also recommend Fiebing's Acrylic dye. As far as using standard paint, we haven't really given it much of a try but from what we can tell, it'll do in a pinch. Acrylic paint made for leather should last longer and stick to your base better, however. Acrylic paint of any kind will crack if used too generously, so sounds like a test is in order.
Hi, Hunter! We like to use Master's Quick Shine: springfieldleather.com/Finish-Masters-QuickShine-13oz . Leather Sheen (springfieldleather.com/Finish-Leather-Sheen-Spray10oz ) or Saddle Lac (springfieldleather.com/Finish-Saddle-Lac-Spray-13oz ) also works well.
I had another question and decided I would go back to this previously answered question to post it. Especially since it involves the same topic of antique finishing. Kevin I wanted to ask you if you ever used any of the Gilders brand paste that you guys sell in your catalog and online? I have seen nothing but people using it for Metal projects etc. but wondered if it was any good for leather? I like the fact that it had some different colors available, although I have always used the Fiebings’s brand like you suggest here in this video and couldn’t be happier. I was just curious because I couldn’t find a video on it, that is “if” you had one available out there. Thanks again and you guys are always extra kind when I order from you. I appreciate it. Sincerely; Mark in Paducah Kentucky.
Hi there, Mark! Sorry for the delay. Gilder's paste is wonderfully versatile and can be used on just about any clean dry surface and has just about the same color pay off across the board when its first applied. The difference, however, is in the way that the paste adheres to the surface and seals. Since it is waxed based and hardly penetrates the surface it rests on, it's not the most ideal match with leather. With leather, we have had some folks use it a lot like antique paste by thinning it out with acetone. In that case it had a desirable look, but didn't seal very well, so we don't recommend it for projects like belts or wallets that would frequently come into contact with other things. I don't believe we have a video that we've used gilder's paste. That product is moreso one we sell on the Touchstone Beads side.
I wish you had completed your thoughts/ideas on using the paste to finish the edges,i.e. black or a two-toned contrasting. I would of liked your comments on that and the point at witch you would have used it, before during after slicking, while slicking to produce a fine edge etc.
Hello! Thanks for watching our video! If you apply paste to the edges, the process should go: 1) Oil your project, 2) Apply a clear coat (resist coat), 3) Apply antique paste on the front and edges of your project, 4) Burnish the edges, and 5) Apply a final clear coat. The natural veg color of the leather and the dark color of the paste create the two-tone contrast. I hope this helps! Thanks again for watching, and let us know if we can provide more help :)
Kevin Hopkins Not exactly my point but, i did understand. I was trying to make the point of black burnished edges and a contrasting color of antiquing pasteon the body of the work. or alternately just dye the edges before hand as many folk ive run into prefer a black slick burnushed edge over other colors even if it is the same as the paste.
Thank you for that awesome video! A question; how did you do that "bone-white"? I love that color! Was it white from the beginning or did you use white acrylic paint? My guess on the process: 1)white colored leather 2)Apply a clear coat (resist coat) 3)Black antique 4)Apply a final clear coat. Is this correct? Thanks!
Hello! So happy you enjoyed our video. :) The white ostrich legs started out white. They came to us as "crust," or unfinished leather. Then, we painted the crust red, applied a clear resist coat, and then applied the antique and a final clear coat (you were right!). Thanks for watching! Happy leather making. :)
Sorry I asked the exact same question prior to reading the others posts. Thanks again for the job you do. I’ve ordered from you guys recently for the first time and was thoroughly impressed. Keep up the good work. 👌😉
One question please ? Is the masters quick shine only a finished shine type product or can it also be used as a resist? Thanks very much guys. You rock!!!! 👌😉
Hi, Hunter! So sorry that your question slipped our notice! Thanks for watching, and so glad you were happy with your order. :) Yes, the Master's Quick Shine can be used as a resist. After tooling, apply a layer of neatsfoot oil to your project. Once that dries, apply any dye to your project and allow that layer to dry. Then, apply the Quick Shine. Again, allow that to dry, then apply your antique paste. After that dries, finish off with a last coat of Quick Shine! :)
Hey, there! In this video, we used antique paste to create an antique finish. Denny personally likes to use dark brown or cordovan--he says he likes the contrast these two colors produce! However, we would suggest experimenting and finding out what works best for you. Thanks for your question! Happy crafting :)
I have never had good luck using the fiebings paste. It always flakes out of the cuts and impressions. What am I doing wrong? Oil, Tan Kote, antique, Tan Kote.
After your wiping the antique off look and make sure there aren't any goopy areas. This gentleman recommended putting a thin coat of neatsfoot oil on and let sit for three hours. Never put neatsfoot oil on leather, it's made from boiled beef bones and offal. It is bad long term for leather as it rots it as many studies have shown, but they keep selling it. Dampen your leather lightly with plain water before antiquing and more of it will soak in instead of crusting on top. Make certain your oil based Fiebings Pro dye is dry, 24 hours! Antique is water based not oil and that's where the flaking is from or too much goop. I should have mentioned that the Pro dye is alcohol carried oil based ink and the ink doesn't dry with the alcohol. Oil ink and Water antique. Oil gets into the paste it dries and is dusty and flaky. I'm a retired biological engineer. lol
@@MountainFisher thanks much. I have done some review and believe it was a combination of what you mention. I think i had also missed oiling so will try that to see if that helps it bind. I was using Fiebings resist and super shene so perhaps that didn't help. Good to know about the Neatsfoot being basically rendered animal fat- i thought it was a plant . I also follow saddle makers (Mr Chaney & Mr Gonzales) and they always use olive oil so that's what i do too. Best, jj
hello again Kevin you and your team are awesome!!! iSorry to bother you guys with an other question bur i really trust your judgment I want to do things the right way,thats why I wanna to to ask you this: after i dye the leather i use tan kote some times the super schen, do i buff the leather work with (AUSSIE fiebings conditioner) in the very end after the tan kote or shell i do the buffing before the tan kote? thank you again and greetings from Germany
Hello, again! No need to apologize. We love questions. :) I would recommend using neatsfoot oil on top of the dye, then applying the tan kote. I'm afraid that the tan kote would not adhere to the leather if you applied the Aussie conditioner on before the tan kote. Hope this helps! Thanks for your question.
Hey guys, I just watched this video on using antique paste twice and nobody ever mentioned the name of the product or showed the container. What's with that?
Hi guy am after a leather sewing machine as my hands are no good to me but can use a machine I can't afford a super one but can get a machine as I have £800 uk cash please help what I can get used many thanks I follow the vid luv them .
Hi, superpete62! Thanks for watching our videos and for your question! The best way to determine what sewing machine fits your needs and how we can help with an order would be to call us at 1-800-668-8518 or email us here: springfieldleather.com/Contact-us . That way, we can ask more questions and get more information about the best fit for you. :) You may also find this video a helpful starting place: ruclips.net/video/mU4bLRelCtA/видео.html Thanks again for watching! Hope we can help! :)
That red and black came out super cool ❤
Thank you for the demonstrations. That tooling is very beautiful Denny. I'm really digging those ostrich knees, especially that you have them available as "blank canvas". So many possibilities.
You did not tell us what you sprayed on after the antique dried. All I saw was a can snd you said ,"Masters". What is that? Is that lacquer, like SaddleLac?
We don’t have the masters spray. Is there anything I can purchase similar here in the UK please ?
If the paste dries, which is what I find my projects doing with multi tasking, I deploy Fiebing's Tan Kote to wipe off the dried excess. Do not apply too much pressure in wiping off the dried excess. Allow the Tan Kote to dry and buff lightly with a cloth or shoe brush. I really like the Fiebing's paste....great product!
It would be nice to see some videos using the ostrich leg crust.
I don't have any ideas off hand. Wallet or a ??????
Thank you for all the info.
You guys are good, enjoyed!
I agree, would like to see the product.
Guys, thanks for a great video, wonderful job.
Thanks for watching! :)
What sealer did you use in the pressure pack can?
Great job! Thanks for sharing, I wanted to know the kind of colors you used for coloring & dyeing? Is it Acrylic..? Thanks!
Thanks! If you click "show more" in the description we have all the paints and color info listed. :)
@@SpringfieldLeather Thanks for your reply! Regards from Egypt! 🙂
Hi guys, enjoyed your videos. Question: did you just use regular red acrylic craft paint? I have a lot of craft paint I'd like to use up but wanted to know if the paint would crack? Or what paint would you recommend?
Rusty used Angelus paint for this project: springfieldleather.com/Paint-Angelus-Red-4oz
Angelus is an office favorite, but we also recommend Fiebing's Acrylic dye.
As far as using standard paint, we haven't really given it much of a try but from what we can tell, it'll do in a pinch. Acrylic paint made for leather should last longer and stick to your base better, however. Acrylic paint of any kind will crack if used too generously, so sounds like a test is in order.
Great job. Btw what brand products in the spray can used for finishing?
Hi, Hunter! We like to use Master's Quick Shine: springfieldleather.com/Finish-Masters-QuickShine-13oz . Leather Sheen (springfieldleather.com/Finish-Leather-Sheen-Spray10oz ) or Saddle Lac (springfieldleather.com/Finish-Saddle-Lac-Spray-13oz ) also works well.
I had another question and decided I would go back to this previously answered question to post it. Especially since it involves the same topic of antique finishing. Kevin I wanted to ask you if you ever used any of the Gilders brand paste that you guys sell in your catalog and online? I have seen nothing but people using it for Metal projects etc. but wondered if it was any good for leather? I like the fact that it had some different colors available, although I have always used the Fiebings’s brand like you suggest here in this video and couldn’t be happier. I was just curious because I couldn’t find a video on it, that is “if” you had one available out there. Thanks again and you guys are always extra kind when I order from you. I appreciate it.
Sincerely;
Mark in Paducah Kentucky.
Hi there, Mark! Sorry for the delay. Gilder's paste is wonderfully versatile and can be used on just about any clean dry surface and has just about the same color pay off across the board when its first applied. The difference, however, is in the way that the paste adheres to the surface and seals. Since it is waxed based and hardly penetrates the surface it rests on, it's not the most ideal match with leather. With leather, we have had some folks use it a lot like antique paste by thinning it out with acetone. In that case it had a desirable look, but didn't seal very well, so we don't recommend it for projects like belts or wallets that would frequently come into contact with other things. I don't believe we have a video that we've used gilder's paste. That product is moreso one we sell on the Touchstone Beads side.
I wish you had completed your thoughts/ideas on using the paste to finish the edges,i.e. black or a two-toned contrasting. I would of liked your comments on that and the point at witch you would have used it, before during after slicking, while slicking to produce a fine edge etc.
Hello! Thanks for watching our video! If you apply paste to the edges, the process should go:
1) Oil your project, 2) Apply a clear coat (resist coat), 3) Apply antique paste on the front and edges of your project, 4) Burnish the edges, and 5) Apply a final clear coat.
The natural veg color of the leather and the dark color of the paste create the two-tone contrast.
I hope this helps! Thanks again for watching, and let us know if we can provide more help :)
Kevin Hopkins Not exactly my point but, i did understand. I was trying to make the point of black burnished edges and a contrasting color of antiquing pasteon the body of the work. or alternately just dye the edges before hand as many folk ive run into prefer a black slick burnushed edge over other colors even if it is the same as the paste.
Thank you for that awesome video! A question; how did you do that "bone-white"? I love that color! Was it white from the beginning or did you use white acrylic paint? My guess on the process: 1)white colored leather 2)Apply a clear coat (resist coat) 3)Black antique 4)Apply a final clear coat. Is this correct? Thanks!
Hello! So happy you enjoyed our video. :) The white ostrich legs started out white. They came to us as "crust," or unfinished leather. Then, we painted the crust red, applied a clear resist coat, and then applied the antique and a final clear coat (you were right!). Thanks for watching! Happy leather making. :)
Thank you for your answer Kevin! Happy leather making to you guys too :)!
Hi...very nice!! What was the spray you're using? You mentioned Masters...but i don't see the spray on your website. Thanks!!
springfieldleather.com/Finish-Masters-QuickShine-13oz
Thank you!
Sorry I asked the exact same question prior to reading the others posts. Thanks again for the job you do. I’ve ordered from you guys recently for the first time and was thoroughly impressed. Keep up the good work. 👌😉
One question please ? Is the masters quick shine only a finished shine type product or can it also be used as a resist? Thanks very much guys. You rock!!!! 👌😉
Hi, Hunter! So sorry that your question slipped our notice! Thanks for watching, and so glad you were happy with your order. :) Yes, the Master's Quick Shine can be used as a resist. After tooling, apply a layer of neatsfoot oil to your project. Once that dries, apply any dye to your project and allow that layer to dry. Then, apply the Quick Shine. Again, allow that to dry, then apply your antique paste. After that dries, finish off with a last coat of Quick Shine! :)
Can either of you two Gentleman be contacted? I want to buy some product but I need some help with info...
Thanks,
Mike
Is it called antique finish or antique paste? And what is an all-around color to get cuz I see it comes in different colors?
Hey, there! In this video, we used antique paste to create an antique finish. Denny personally likes to use dark brown or cordovan--he says he likes the contrast these two colors produce! However, we would suggest experimenting and finding out what works best for you. Thanks for your question! Happy crafting :)
I have never had good luck using the fiebings paste. It always flakes out of the cuts and impressions. What am I doing wrong? Oil, Tan Kote, antique, Tan Kote.
The antique gel has been a lot more user friendly.
Camera on the face, not the project... wish you could of shown the products that you were using.. but thx for the info.. I'm learning alot..
I tried using fiebings antique paste on oil dyed veg tan and it flaked off. Any suggestions?
After your wiping the antique off look and make sure there aren't any goopy areas. This gentleman recommended putting a thin coat of neatsfoot oil on and let sit for three hours. Never put neatsfoot oil on leather, it's made from boiled beef bones and offal. It is bad long term for leather as it rots it as many studies have shown, but they keep selling it. Dampen your leather lightly with plain water before antiquing and more of it will soak in instead of crusting on top. Make certain your oil based Fiebings Pro dye is dry, 24 hours! Antique is water based not oil and that's where the flaking is from or too much goop. I should have mentioned that the Pro dye is alcohol carried oil based ink and the ink doesn't dry with the alcohol. Oil ink and Water antique. Oil gets into the paste it dries and is dusty and flaky. I'm a retired biological engineer. lol
@@MountainFisher thanks much. I have done some review and believe it was a combination of what you mention. I think i had also missed oiling so will try that to see if that helps it bind. I was using Fiebings resist and super shene so perhaps that didn't help. Good to know about the Neatsfoot being basically rendered animal fat- i thought it was a plant . I also follow saddle makers (Mr Chaney & Mr Gonzales) and they always use olive oil so that's what i do too. Best, jj
What was the spray you're using mistr?
springfieldleather.com/Finish-Masters-QuickShine-13oz
hello again Kevin you and your team are awesome!!! iSorry to bother you guys with an other question bur i really trust your judgment I want to do things the right way,thats why I wanna to to ask you this:
after i dye the leather i use tan kote some times the super schen, do i buff the leather work with (AUSSIE fiebings conditioner) in the very end after the tan kote or shell i do the buffing before the tan kote?
thank you again and greetings from Germany
Hello, again! No need to apologize. We love questions. :)
I would recommend using neatsfoot oil on top of the dye, then applying the tan kote. I'm afraid that the tan kote would not adhere to the leather if you applied the Aussie conditioner on before the tan kote.
Hope this helps! Thanks for your question.
Hey guys, I just watched this video on using antique paste twice and nobody ever mentioned the name of the product or showed the container. What's with that?
Shirley Malar they use mostly the ones you find in Tandy leather stores , i go there to buy some of my stuffs.
Probably Fiebing's Antique Finish. Try to avoid the Tandy Gel.
Hi guy am after a leather sewing machine as my hands are no good to me but can use a machine I can't afford a super one but can get a machine as I have £800 uk cash please help what I can get used many thanks I follow the vid luv them .
Hi, superpete62! Thanks for watching our videos and for your question! The best way to determine what sewing machine fits your needs and how we can help with an order would be to call us at 1-800-668-8518 or email us here: springfieldleather.com/Contact-us . That way, we can ask more questions and get more information about the best fit for you. :) You may also find this video a helpful starting place: ruclips.net/video/mU4bLRelCtA/видео.html
Thanks again for watching! Hope we can help! :)
Does anyone know who carries chicken leather?
I do, but it's cheap.