Interesting that the most basic of techniques comes out the nicest in appearance. I like adding a coat of olive - dried - as the first step on veg tan before a top coat... But that antique straight to the leather first came out beautifully.
Chuck, outstanding element. I’ve been dabbling with the neutral antique and acrylic paint. I discovered months ago to wait until the dying process is complete and dry then I punch the holes in the leather. I found that the white thread will pick up the dye in the holes if you punch prior to dying. It was so bad that I had to remove the white thread from my project and clean out each punch hole. Then go back and thread my project. What a mess. I definitely learned the hard way. Richard
That was almost as good as watching a detailed project video! Haha! I love it when you experiment with colors. It really gives me lots of ideas. 'Preciate it!!
Thank you! That was absolutely what I was looking for. To put the top coat first and THEN the antique 🙀🤩👍 I was wondering why all the nice insta vids always stayed so light even if using a very dark antique finish and mine got so so dark 🙀 now I know!!! 😘😘😘 thank you 🙏🏻☺️
Hi ! I learned a lot from you since i started leater work! Thanks for that. But, i am somewhat confused that you did not mentioned using resists exept your favorite leather balm! I had to much problems with dye and antique ruboff when using only leather balm on dyed pieces as a top coat. Keep up the great work!
Hi Chuck, great Element as always, thank you! If you are going to oil your project, (Neetsfoot, etc) that would be the 1st step, correct? Then then dye/paint, resist, antique, & finish (RTC, if you want to recondition at a later date, or Resolene/Angelis if you want to go acrylic). I keep confusing myself. Thank you, George
That’s a good question because the steps can be confusing but it’s a hard call because oil is hard to apply consistently and too much oil and it will resist everything. I would say dye first, then add a very small amount of oil, apply very lightly with a rag (See Santa Belt video for an example of this) then paint, or antique, or resist then the top coat.
I have some left over hypershift pigments from dipyourcar that I got to make soft plastic lures with. I'm hoping I can get them to mix well and work. They color shift and look amazing in the baits.
I have had some issues with mahogany turning out looking chalky. I think it only really works on undyed veg tan. Dark brown has not been giving me any problems though, dyed or otherwise.
Once again I am baffeled. I know what Antique is supposed to do and I have the black and the neutral here. What I did not know is that you can mix the neutral with acrylic paint. Seeing the gold/red-combination really blew my mind. The only thing I am a bit sceptical about is antiquing edges. Doesn't it rub off more colour than regular Pro Dye (I don't use special edge paint, just regular dye and Tokonole afterwards), for example?
@Weaver Leather Supply I read every other comment before I posted this so I know I'm not duplicating anyting, so here goes: can you mix dyes in with the neutral antique? I'm a big fan of oxblood and I can never properly mix the red paint in to look right.
Ooh. Idea: Get a bottle of neutral for each color and premix an antique for each paint and dye. Remove some of the neutral from each bottle and put it in a spare bottle of neutral. Then you have a matching antique for each color and a neutral as well.
We would recommend some type of top coat to seal in the paint. It's somewhat up to preference and what type of finish you want (glossy, matte, satin). Aerosol top coats like Fiebing's Leather Sheen are nice for painted items so you're not rubbing across the paint.
You can mix it with dye as well. You'll have to experiment with the ratio of dye to neutral antique a little bit but other than that it should work just fine!
There was no resist used in the video. The antique paste will add a hint of color to the leather without resist but it won't add as much as the gel. The gel is more like a dye and won't wipe off like the paste will. If you don't want any color added to the non-tooled area, resisting first is recommended. Hope that helps!
I tried comparing two antiques but both came out as the exact same color on the leather i used. My guess is that i accidentally used the same rag for both. Outside of the aforementioned mistake, is there other ways that this can happen?
If there’s no tooling or stamping the browns can be very similar when just used on the top grain. The mahogany and black are pretty noticeable but the browns can look very much alike.
I am making eyeglass cases and I need to smooth the back side so the eyeglass lens’ won’t scratch. When I apply the tokonole burnishing gum I invariably get it on the flesh side and mess up my ability to apply dye correctly. Can I dye the leather first and then apply the tokonole?
I’ve never met anyone who talk as fast and yet concise as chuck. I don’t think I’ve ever heard him like say um and have to think for a second ❤
I'm pretty sure you saved me a lot of heartache with that chisel tip at the end there
Great information would never thought to add paint to a neutral! Opens a lot of possibilities, thank you.
Interesting that the most basic of techniques comes out the nicest in appearance. I like adding a coat of olive - dried - as the first step on veg tan before a top coat... But that antique straight to the leather first came out beautifully.
Very good information and with no "Ehm" or something like that the fastest and best exlainer on this Planet🤷🏼♂️😂Go ahead☝🏼
Great video. God bless. From Glenn CATT in Massachusetts.
I need some of that neutral, eager to try it, thanks.
awesome vid! thanks again Chuck!
This video give me so many ideas. Thx Chuck !
Thanks for the video. Really like your positive attitude, stay safe!
Great video! Can't wait to get started
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for! Thank you so much!
Again fantastic info and an absolute joy to watch!
Chuck, you are a pleasure to watch. Thanks for the content.
Chuck, outstanding element. I’ve been dabbling with the neutral antique and acrylic paint. I discovered months ago to wait until the dying process is complete and dry then I punch the holes in the leather. I found that the white thread will pick up the dye in the holes if you punch prior to dying. It was so bad that I had to remove the white thread from my project and clean out each punch hole. Then go back and thread my project. What a mess. I definitely learned the hard way. Richard
That was almost as good as watching a detailed project video! Haha! I love it when you experiment with colors. It really gives me lots of ideas. 'Preciate it!!
Loved the video. Thanks for all the pointers.
Chuck thank you for making that very clear.
You are a great teacher Sir!
Thanks Chuck ! Here's yet another product that I'll have to procure. With foreknowledge, I'll have the skills necessary to create a better product.
Thank you so much for just getting right to it! It is appreciated👍🏼
Just love this video. So much information in so little time. Perfect.
Excellent information
Thank you
You are welcome! Thank you for watching. :)
Thanks 😁
awesome thank you
Super helpful, Chuck! This was an excellent explanation and one I will use for reference once I start experimenting with antiques. Thank you.
Thank you! That was absolutely what I was looking for. To put the top coat first and THEN the antique 🙀🤩👍 I was wondering why all the nice insta vids always stayed so light even if using a very dark antique finish and mine got so so dark 🙀 now I know!!! 😘😘😘 thank you 🙏🏻☺️
Good info Chuck.
Weaver had a Tuluene Free Barge Cement.
I don't have very good ventilation and smell of other Barge cement tear me up.
Guess should try and find out.
Hi ! I learned a lot from you since i started leater work! Thanks for that. But, i am somewhat confused that you did not mentioned using resists exept your favorite leather balm! I had to much problems with dye and antique ruboff when using only leather balm on dyed pieces as a top coat. Keep up the great work!
I bet that gold would look amazing on some blue dyed leather
It’s just too bad Chuck doesn’t get very excited…😂
Another good video - thanks. It’ll get me doing antique finishing again after years away.
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
Hi Chuck, great Element as always, thank you! If you are going to oil your project, (Neetsfoot, etc) that would be the 1st step, correct? Then then dye/paint, resist, antique, & finish (RTC, if you want to recondition at a later date, or Resolene/Angelis if you want to go acrylic). I keep confusing myself.
Thank you,
George
That’s a good question because the steps can be confusing but it’s a hard call because oil is hard to apply consistently and too much oil and it will resist everything. I would say dye first, then add a very small amount of oil, apply very lightly with a rag (See Santa Belt video for an example of this) then paint, or antique, or resist then the top coat.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thank you, much appreciated. Please keep up the excellent work!
I just ordered some of the neutral to try out and so glad you have shown how to mix it with any colour. That is just awesome!!
I have some left over hypershift pigments from dipyourcar that I got to make soft plastic lures with. I'm hoping I can get them to mix well and work. They color shift and look amazing in the baits.
I have had some issues with mahogany turning out looking chalky. I think it only really works on undyed veg tan. Dark brown has not been giving me any problems though, dyed or otherwise.
Спасибо
I love these videos. They never get old. Question: can you mix in the metallic paint with the neutral?
Brilliant 👌
Once again I am baffeled. I know what Antique is supposed to do and I have the black and the neutral here. What I did not know is that you can mix the neutral with acrylic paint. Seeing the gold/red-combination really blew my mind. The only thing I am a bit sceptical about is antiquing edges. Doesn't it rub off more colour than regular Pro Dye (I don't use special edge paint, just regular dye and Tokonole afterwards), for example?
It likely wicks into the unfinished edge.
Hey Chuck one question...how do I cut a circle out of soft leather like goat or lambs skin? Steve
Hi Chuck. I love your work. Is it possible for you to make me a custom holster?
@Weaver Leather Supply I read every other comment before I posted this so I know I'm not duplicating anyting, so here goes: can you mix dyes in with the neutral antique? I'm a big fan of oxblood and I can never properly mix the red paint in to look right.
Yes, you can mix dyes with the neutral antique!
Ooh. Idea: Get a bottle of neutral for each color and premix an antique for each paint and dye. Remove some of the neutral from each bottle and put it in a spare bottle of neutral. Then you have a matching antique for each color and a neutral as well.
Do you recommend leather balm on veg tan painted earrings? Or what do you recommend as finish?
We would recommend some type of top coat to seal in the paint. It's somewhat up to preference and what type of finish you want (glossy, matte, satin). Aerosol top coats like Fiebing's Leather Sheen are nice for painted items so you're not rubbing across the paint.
I’ve had issue with the top grain getting darker and darker and it’s very blotchy. Idk how to stop that from happening or what I’m doing wrong?
Can you color gum trag or tokonole? Or neutral edge kote. Like does adding food coloring work? Lol
yes, i have done tokonale and it worked great.
Does it have to be a paint mixed with the neutral antique or can you mix in a dye instead?
You can mix it with dye as well. You'll have to experiment with the ratio of dye to neutral antique a little bit but other than that it should work just fine!
What leather balm are you using? Does it have atomic wax? Thank you
Here is the link to what is used in the video... www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/leather-balm-with-atom-wax-neutral-4-oz It does have Atom Wax.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply what's the difference between Tan-Kote and Leather balm?
Did you use a resist on the first piece? If i dont it stains the leather with the gel. Have you tried the gel, should I switch to paste?
There was no resist used in the video. The antique paste will add a hint of color to the leather without resist but it won't add as much as the gel. The gel is more like a dye and won't wipe off like the paste will. If you don't want any color added to the non-tooled area, resisting first is recommended. Hope that helps!
I tried comparing two antiques but both came out as the exact same color on the leather i used. My guess is that i accidentally used the same rag for both. Outside of the aforementioned mistake, is there other ways that this can happen?
If there’s no tooling or stamping the browns can be very similar when just used on the top grain. The mahogany and black are pretty noticeable but the browns can look very much alike.
I am making eyeglass cases and I need to smooth the back side so the eyeglass lens’ won’t scratch. When I apply the tokonole burnishing gum I invariably get it on the flesh side and mess up my ability to apply dye correctly. Can I dye the leather first and then apply the tokonole?
We would recommend dyeing first and then applying Tokonole and burnishing with a bone folder, glass slicker or a piece of veg tan.
Roselene ✓
Pro resist✓
Antique ✓
Gloves✓
Video running✓
Ok I'm ready to go. 😊
You listed the order of finishing you left out where the antique went on and what final sealer you used if at all. Please help. 😢
How about a tutorial how to properly use edge kote
I was first finally!!!
Give yourself a pat on the back
@@carollane8694 I did. It was awesome.
@@timhubbard7656 haha bless you
Traduzcan al español
Not going to lie. I cringe every time Chuck pronounces Fiebings wrong. :)