It's not "Just A STOCK 413"... We're Building a MOPAR STROKER!
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- Опубликовано: 20 янв 2024
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We've started working on @ScannerDanner 's 413 Wedge... but it's not going to stay a 413! Stay tuned as we begin the build series on a 483ci STROKER!
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#MOPARV8 #automotivemachining #jimsautomotivemachineshop 
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To try everything Brilliant has to offer-free-for a full 30 days, visit www.brilliant.org/JAMS The first 200 of you will get 20% off Brilliant's annual premium subscription.
would you be comfortable doing darton or la sleeves in a honda block?
Been a mopar racer / engine builder since ,late 70s. Don’t listen to all the crap you hear about what block is thicker and what block is thin. It’s all bull crap I’ve been building these motors for a lot of years. Sonic testing is always needed. I’m sure the cleaning guy will tell you knowledge and testing is all you need Always investigate your block and test it before you start any machining. All these mopar blocks myths are exactly that. Good job
Seems like it all depends on how the casting was that day . People don't realize that casting isn't an exact science ( especially not 50-60 years ago ) . The thicknesses vary greatly from.one engine to another . Enough so to make you have a bad day anyway as a machinist .
Agreed. I bought a thickness gauge many years ago and have tested a lot of 440, 413 and 360 blocks and none has been especially thick. You can tell by the numbers that the target thickness is around 0.250" and if it's thin on one side it will be thick on the other. I have found the later blocks to be more consistent than the '60s blocks but I have found a couple of the latest 400 blocks to have very thin spots for whatever reason.
Wise words sand casting will.always be 19th century technology the wall thickness can never be super precise.
I think you should have printed out the chart you made on the computer. All the numbers for that engine should go on the working chart, including the numbers you came up with digitally. You could have your work-up on a scratch paper taped or paper clipped to the chart. Would putting a sleeve in the cylinder with the bore shift have allowed you to keep the bore center in that hole in the same plane as the other cylinders? Doesn’t running the bore center off create an imbalance? Maybe this can be allowed for further on in the process, but that just seems like kicking the can down the road.Anyhow, thanks for the video. I’ll be watching the others in the series. Take care, and listen to the sweeper once in a while.
I use to play kick the can also played jug Ball.....we would turn the can sideways and stomp it run up and down the road sounds like a herd of horses attached a bicycle rim to a board and run around the mountain cow trails pretending to have a motorcycle till one day the wheel came off my brother's motorcycle....stick got one of his boys... From that day forward I tagged him as Stella.... AIN'T IT JUST AIN'T IT 😜 lols.... Anyway there should be an abundance of 413 out there as I worked on 100's of them...
Your Dad's comment about the hammer reminded me of what my grandfather used to say about his axe. "You can change the handle five times and the head twice, but it's still Grandpa's axe".
I still have it.
It UK, we call that Trigger’s Broom from the “Only Fools and Horses” comedy series.
Great content as usual nick. We're blessed to be from a generation where tools are available to properly check things prior to just boring the hell out of a block because someone heard a story at a car show in the 80s.
Hadn't really put that much thought into it, but you're right! Technology definitely helps guide decisions like this lol
It's crazy watching how good he is. I remember when he was born when I was working for you.
Hi Rob! How ya doing? He does a great job!!
I'm good. Feeling old lol that equipment is going to last longer then me
Love the content. Many hours of top notch machining to make it perfect, and taking the time to teach, film, and edit. Your hard work is very appreciated. Your videos are getting better and better. Thank you
Much appreciated!
A person that says, its only a engine built, is a person who doesn't want to learn, am 68, and have been building, restoring for many years, bikes mainly, and am still learning new tricks and ways, keep up the very good work and content
It's just an engine build. It's worth my time watching.
Agreed. The machining steps are the same for a stock John Deere or a 1,000 HP race engine. If you enjoy watching this type of content, it shouldn’t matter.
It’s worth watching because rebuilds to near stock with stock parts are far more common. That means you start at stock when you are a new builder.
That feeling before sending a cutter down your part, after doing all the math, double checking your fixture, machine, S&Fs, etc... its both exciting and scary, never gets old! Then finding out that the cut was perfect, double exciting. I think that is the feeling that hooks you into the trade. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Take care!
I'm with ya on that! That "nailed it!" feeling is rewarding although once in a while the "What the heck???" brings you down to earth!
It does not matter if the engine is from a tractor or a muscle car, a precision machine work is a must to have a solid foundation to a reliable build, nice work!😃
You guys are amazing! Its really hard to find a quality machine shop these days not to mention a shop that really goes the extra mile and gives you what you pay for, a finished product you can rely on!
Loving the youtube collaborations! Sarahntuned shouldve used you guys for her rebuild
She absolutely should have. They're lucky she has such a strict personal/moral code.
Love the custom cardboard chip controller. Reminds me of my father and his ingenuity. Cuts down on work for you apprentice.
It's nice but needs a little TLC haha
I watch your show with great interest ,I doubt if a lot of machine shops take the pains to get things right like you do your Dad taught you well and it shows .awesome content
100% and that is why Nic and Jim have my engine
I think there are a lot of shops out there who work to this level of precision and far exceed the level of precision we are capable of hitting. But unfortunately, there are also a lot of shops out there who do the bare minimum to make a quick buck.
Yea, just like I went through 14,000 later and 2 machine shops just for a 347 stroker. I already spent 7,632 on first shop to take it to a second shop $3,800 and had to take it back to the second shop for a second time, and I'm hoping on wendsday all goes well.
@@JAMSIONLINEI’d agree completely with every sentiment of this comment. The level of precision some equipment provides these days is staggering. Still really cool to see you guys doing solid work with way more budget equipment. plus for those of us who aren’t machinists, it’s cool to see how the bread is made!
I'm so grateful to live near Mooresvile NC and have amazing machinists at my disposal. Except during certain times of the Nascar season ofc! I'm back of the line then.
At 3:15 did I hear the guy that sweeps the floors laugh. I enjoy seeing the way you work with your Father!
Me too!
I knew a guy who worked in the engine room for one of the major NASCAR teams back in the 80s. He said they used the Chevrolet bow tie blocks that were designed for racing but spent several days making sure the geometry on those blocks was as perfect as possible...on a new block no less
Scanner danger is the man! Stoked you guys are collaborating on this!
😅 love auto correct but I definitely can be dangerous too thanks!
Hahahah whoops! Well that can be your new nickname!
Especially around airbags... Hi Paul...LOL
@@joshpean8527 😂 it won't be the first time I've heard that. I always loved ScammerDanner too
@@Blazer02LS😂😂 I was gonna say that too. My man
I like the high-tech dust shield made from cardboard😂. You guys are super clean with your work. I’m impressed.
All the best use high-tech cardboard shielding! One of the other channels I watch they use CAD for bracket manufacturing - that is Cardboard Assisted Design. I too love the professionalism and cleanliness of the working environment. Check out Cutting Edge Engineering channel for awesome machining and welding too... have a good day all......
@@brerobsym I’m familiar with the CAD, we may watch the same channel - John on farm craft?
@bill_p2074 nope! That one I heard on Bad Obsession Motorsport. A UK channel where their most infamous build is putting a 1984 Celica AWD engine and driveline into a 60s mini. Project Binky is the series and well worth the time.
I see Machinists apply the ICBM Missile Maintainer philosophy of "When in doubt, get the bigger hammer out." Very good.
If a bigger hammer can't fix it, it's an electrical problem.
This is an all-star RUclips collaboration that is just fricken awesome. They are the best of the best in there specific areas of expertise Scanner in engine diagnostics with son Caleb behind the camera and Jim and Nick on the machine shop with there machine shop wizardry. This is cool I hope that this is not the only collaboration. I am sitting here waiting for this automotive class to start and watching videos chomping at the bit to get started. God bless,
Tom L
Thanks so much Tom!
Yes! I discovered @ScannerDanner channel a couple of years ago when troubleshooting some drivability issues in a relatively new car (well, 2004, but that is newish to me). He is an awesome teacher. I discovered Jim's Auto Machine Shop channel a couple of months ago as I am in the process of rebuilding a 390 FE Ford engine (same engine I rebuilt 41 years ago!). I am so impressed with the knowledge and skills of the cleaner and the young dude and I have learned a ton from watching and listening to them. One good thing about modern times is that we have people like Jim's Auto Machine Shop and ScannerDanner who are experts in their fields and who share their knowledge. Thanks guys!!!
PS @ScannerDanner: I ended up buying a U-Scope after watching your videos.
@JAMSIONLINE thanks to you guys I will be much more knowledgeable when I go to the local automotive machine shop to have them check my old 390 block and plan the best course of action (has some rusty bores, may need sleeving)
Ed
@11:30 that was some pretty good math you did there Nic!
Lol you like that? I also did the math and found out that by shifting cylinder 3 over .025", that piston will now be .00003" lower than the rest at top dead center (obviously negligible), and that cylinder will hit TDC at ~.15 degrees retarded (also obviously negligible). (SOMEONE PLEASE CHECK MY MATH LOL 4.250 stroke 7.100 rod and bore shifted .025")
@@JAMSIONLINE that answers some questions! Thanks Nic! Those are insignificant for sure but that is also some amazing math skills lol
If you do the lifter bores, can you please show us. Even if you do it as a short. Thanks as always.
*_YES_* . . I'm very interested in that process as well.
Same, I've never seen lifter bores sleeved before but would like to.
I saw a video on Hagerty that featured lifter bore sleeving. They did it to a Ford 351C:
ruclips.net/video/y_WunKCClvk/видео.html
It starts around 11 minutes in.
i love the high tech chip shroud for the fly cutter! lol
ScannerDanner! I remember him from figuring out Bosch O2s were no good on Chrysler 3.5s
😊 nice! Yeah the pulse width modulated heater controls on the newer models didn't like the Bosch heaters that were designed to be on all the time
These are fun engines to build. About 30 years ago we started with a 400 Dodge block, offset ground (and cut down) .020 a 440-six-pack crank. BB Chevy rods, and 455 Buick pistons for the pin height. I remember annealing the 1/2" copper tube to drive down the lifter gallery so we could swage fit roller lifters to that block. I wish we had cylinder heads and bushed lifters then like they do now. Keep up the good work.
4.25 is a wise choice. Stock bore for a 426 Wedge, 426 Hemi, 383 wedge, and 454 Chevy. So pistons are available.
This is a true professional, highly accurate blueprint. It takes longer time , but this process , definitely,, is the only way to build a durable, reliable, dependable engine. Thanks, always
I’m having a Rain Man moment… I remember reading in an old issue of Car Craft which covered the NHRA Winternationals at Pomona, and A/GS was won by a ‘35 Willys powered by a blown 482 cubic inch big block Dodge. Pretty sure he got to 482 the same way.
How many toothpicks?
246
Almost 40 minutes! What a good weekend treat. I think shining a little light up the cylinder bore while you do the slow motion shots would look really cool. We would see the cut line and flying chips a little better.
Hey, I want to make this hole bigger but I need to move it over a little bit. Nick - "hold my beer, watch this"! Love it!!
😎
😂😂
I thought he was going to order an oblong piston. 😂
@@deanleonard7857 😆
Very common practice when working with stock blocks
I still have my Dad's favorite hammer. He passed in 1988. As a kid, I never understood what was so special about it, always thought, "It's just a stupid hammer." Having owned several over the years, That was the first time I truly understood what a good tool means. That hammer/lesson means a lot to me!
Wait you can bore the cylinder off its original center? Won’t that mess with alignment with the head? Also won’t it be 25 thou off center with the crank center?
Outstanding video showing how to work with core shift to make an overbore work.
Edit: is that a cardboard chip shield? That’s a good idea because it contains the mess and if a mishap should happen and the shield fouls the cutting works, all you get is a mess of cardboard around the machine.
Scanner Danner is a wealth of information himself.... He made a good choice for a machine shop as well... Looking forward to the completed project.
Thank you sir! It's funny how much I can be a so called expert in one area of this field and an absolute complete novice in another! Like right here. I'm as green as they come 😅
Not really, I know a lot of folks who are very proficient in one aspect of their field but not another. Look at doctors as an example. I know a surgeon who I would trust all day long to work inside my heart, but he is lost with pediatrics! Can't blame him, 25 years as a Paramedic and I never really got into little ones either, I think mainly because of communication issues. That teenager with a broken leg can tell you what hurts and where, the 4 month old, not so much.
@@Blazer02LS great comment thanks!
A lot of Mopar guys are now using the 400 B block because from the factory these have the largest bore out of all of the Mopar big blocks plus the crank main webs in the blocks are wider and stronger than the 413 and 440 and if your building a A body street or strip powered big block car the B block 400s deck height and physical size of the block is a little smaller so it makes it easier to work on in a A body Mopar. A real common stroker build for these 400 B blocks is the 451 stroker where you use a 413 or 440 forged steel crank shaft with the 440 rods and custom stroker pistons all balanced and these engines rev quick like a small block but make torque and HP like a built big block does .
that would be too easy and not address whats being done in the video
Thats all well and good, and if there's a better block for your application and intended use it would be a good choice. But we should also look at availability. These engines aren't made anymore and its been a minute since they were. So as the years go by more and more of the favored blocks have simply gotten too worn out our installed their ow inspection holes so became junk. So prices on good ones get crazy and people who want to build an original or just fix what they have gets more viable. Also, numbers matching matters. So maybe there is currently a glut of affordable better blocks now but its good to know what can be done with less desirable ones as one day they will be the only affordable ones to build.
@@BelowAmbient True but most don't know about the 400 blocks that can be used because of the larger bore to build stroker engines using them . They are more compact smaller in size than the RB or raised block engine like the 413 and 440 are and if your going big block in a A body car for the street or strip the 400 block gives you more room under the hood to work on them which makes things easier especially if it's not a full tube front chassis car with a mid plate . The 400 blocks also have thicker main webs than the 413 and 440 so they are technically stronger and don't have the problem of cracking main webs like the RB block will and that's another reason a lot of guys are using them because they can take more HP and abuse compared to the RB blocks . I've seen plenty of RB blocks once a certain HP is made that fail because the main webs cracked and once that happened the block is junk plus the 400 blocks are plentiful yet because they were used in cars truck and on some industrial applications and the industrial engines had even thicker main webs and block castings when sonic checked.
@@nickwarner8158 I get that on the matching numbers for a correct period restoration and that some they've been bored so many times that they are at the end of life but a good machine shop can do like we are seeing here and install new sleeves and basically start over again to a factory bore size if one wanted to go that route and I get that finding these RB blocks are getting high on prices and are harder to find but that's the way it is for everything Chrysler as far as prices which are through the roof because everyone thinks anything they have that's made by Chrysler Dodge or Plymouth thinks they are worth gold witch in ways they are just because there aren't as many left around compared to the GM and Ford stuff . Building any Chrysler engine compared to Ford or GM specifically a Chevrolet engine is much much more costly mainly because most of the engine machine shops have all the tooling to machine these engines compared to the Chrysler engines which they get fewer of these coming in for machine work compared to the Chevrolet and Ford engines . Buick Olds and Pontiac engines are also more expensive to either rebuild or build for racing applications just because not many people are racing them nearly as much as the Chevrolet and Ford and even the Chrysler engines and Cadillac is even worse . I worked at 3 different speed shops years ago before I retired and the one had a full machine shop and I used to build engines for some of the customers and when these engines were done they would go into the customers cars and then we would start the engines up to check for leaks and oil pressure then shut them down and restart again a couple times to heat soak the engine and once every was good it was chassis dyno time to make short pulls to break the engines in and to seat the rings fully which we could tell by looking at the dyno graphs sheets and once that was done it was full on hard pulls and tuning and jetting changes to make as much power as possible being most of the engines I built were for drag racing or used n dirt track cars and some road race cars . Once I retired and moved to a different state I got to know a guy who had a restoration shop that would restore cars and trucks but his specialty was doing Chrysler Dodge and Plymouth cars and I was wondering for him at times doing mechanical work on mostly the Chrysler muscle cars that were coming in to be restored for a few years until he died right after the covid pandemic from having to have surgery and died on the table unfortunately so the business is no longer so now I have a buddy and we build some muscle cars and rat rods to not only stay busy but to sell to make money to buy more old cars and trucks to restore and build them to stay busy and keep this going as long as our body's allow it which is getting harder because we are both beat up from all the years of wrenching and doing body work lol .
Those 400's were made to be luxury grocery getter engines for cars like the Cordoba and the Monaco. That means they are cheap... probably not for long as builders discover them. A lot of value in an overlooked engine.
So satisfying to watch the bores and surfaces clean up nice and with such precision and attention to details.top quality as always
Lifter bore bushings is a good idea on big block Mopars. The oil galley hole is huge and if the lifter clearance is high you bleed off a lot of oil to the mains. Really helps oil pressure at idle.
Yes and if your running a solid lifter flat tappet cam or even a hydraulic flat tappet cam if a lifter comes out of the right side lifter bore from over rev and bends a push rod and the lifter comes out the oil pressure drops to about 5 psi instantly because the lifter oil galley is on that side so it's always a good idea to sleeve the lifter bores so this doesn't happen especially at high RPM where lack of oil to the rod bearings will destroy the bearings and possibly lock up and turn a rod or crank bearing which is never good .
That sleeve pusher needs to have the top ground down, when it starts splitting like that you risk not just a sharp bur or a piece falling off, but of it fracturing off and getting sent into someone.
Moving the cylinder over to compensate for wall thickness is VERY COOL. Didn't know that could be done! Like The Cleaning Guy, I got a chuckle out of your 70's Chrysler looks good my equipment must be broken comment. ;)
What does that do to the alignment of the head gaskip?
Great video, well explained. Thank you.
Good stuff, I have actually worked on 100's of those Engines they are tough.... durable....
Love all of your videos! Very educational. Thank you!
I had no idea that you could bore a block "off center" like that. WOW! I thought you would simply make each hole bigger.
You learn something new everyday! :)
After working in a machine shop in high school. (28years ago) I always wanted to sleeve all cylinders on a 460. The sleeve material seemed much better than the block material. I always wondered if that was true.
I’m about longevity so it would be interesting years down the road how the wear would be.
The poor man stroker 460 I built before I left must have been okay on the machining for a high schooler. It has 370,000 on it and still doesn’t use oil 😂 it’s my back up truck at this point.
Keep up the great work and great videos!
(The poor boy stroker is we welded up the crank, offset ground it down, not sure on the rods and pistons but they were right from sealed power. 499ci)
Great video thanks for sharing
Informative and captivating. Thanks for sharing.
Jim I think your business will be in GREAT hands when you decide to full time farm! You should be very proud of your previous work and your sons now.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎🤓👴🏻
A Mopar build this is going to be interesting and some Math to boot...good content and thanks.
Don't forget, you are measuring coil bind at room temperature. With thermal expansion at operating temps, the binding issue could be worse!
Stupid question? You always find your worst hole and start from there. I am not much of a machinist but I have put a lot of stuff together . I understand sometimes shit bites you in the ass. Ya'll got a awesome channel ,keep up the good work! I wish back in the day we would have had all those fancy equipment Ya'll are great!
No stupid questions (well, maybe some)...
Yep, usually it's a good habit to start on the worst hole which in this case would've been cylinder #2 (the super rusty one). However, in my head I wanted to start on the bore I was shifting, to see if what I wanted to accomplish there was even going to work.
Typically the goal of starting on the worst one would be to see if it would clean up at a certain oversize. In this case, I already knew that the option was it would either clean up, or it wouldn't and it would need sleeved. So didn't make too much difference.
I don't know if that makes sense, but that was kind of my thought process. And as usual, sometimes your process changes or you pivot when you encounter something unexpected half way through!
Thanks for watching!
Great content thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video/info…
👍👍
I hope some day you'll be building a street HEMI from the 60's. 70's ?? 😊😊😊😊
Great machining! I'm looking forward to the next videos on this build
Been excited to see an update on this since the tear-down video dropped a few weeks ago. Glad to see you're using the 413 as it's a fantastic foundation and RBs are great candidates for stroker cranks with that tall deck, not to mention how easy it is to build easy torque and hp with an under-stressed big inch engine. Mild cam and compression should set this up for years of super reliable cruising. Pretty cool to see the additional strengthening ribs on the side of the industrial block, too. Hardly ever see those with 440's.
Dam what a process . Super sweet seeing u do all that cutting
Another awesome video. Always excited to watch new ones when they come out.
Cool I wanna see the process of lifter bushings
Lol I noticed the cleaning guy is keeping a close eye on you!!! Keep up the great work guys👍
Another terrific job. Always work for people that do it right!
You could do the old nascar trick, have a couple different sized cylinders to throw off the inspectors.
Love the content. In reference to wall thickness of casting you always get what you inspect, not expect. It's also almost always cheaper to inspect before you cut then find out your expectations were wrong.
Be absolutely terrible to open up to a water jacket just because the casting mold was a little fat that day
if u shifted the centerline of the bores by 0.025”, wouldn’t that shift the crank to bore angle? Does that have a consequence on the torque and vibration for that bank?
Paul is gonna be super happy with this engine!
Yes I am!
Big fan! Just a fun fact A 4.25 bore would have been the stock bore for the 426 max wedge block I think. The 413s big brother.
Wow, a lot of machine work on this block!
Nice work wish your shop was in my area, keep the videos coming
Thanks for your work.
I really enjoy your channel. I'm a Electrician/Millwright, so well versed in many things. Regardless I learn a lot from you guys.
Beautiful work as always, really wish I had a engine shop like yours I could trust to a 110% in my neck of the woods
As a Mopar lover I am enjoying this build you guys are very conscientious so in do your best and we'll see how good she runs
Nice job!
Just a 413 ? It will make Good HP ! Thanks for sharing !
Good job.
I can't wait to see the finished product on this.
Me too! Can't wait to drive the finished product!
We love scanner Danner 🎉🎉🎉
Scanner Danner ! must be his Orange Beast ! Power Wagon
I really enjoy your channel! Not being mechanically inclined this is so interesting
When I was a young boy, I was involved in boring out some cylinders, and we pre torqued some bolts to spec, and left them in there before we started any drilling, that way it was perfect when all was reassembled back on there. There was a plate and some sleeves on them screws.
Love your work!🤩
Smart and competent young dude.
So glad to see a Chrysler engine in the works. The 413 holds a special place of interest for me because I remember them when they were new as the 413 Max Wedge engines [I was 13] & with the long runner cross over Ram manifolds, produced absolute torque monsters. The 1950's & '60's was an awesome time for engine design & development.
My only big block engine was the 1959 DeSoto 361 that, as an 18 year old, I built up as a hot rod engine for my '33 coupe. [1968] Now, 55 years later, I am building a 1957 Dodge 325 Hemi for that same car after removing the most recent 360 LA engine from it. [The Hemi is the sixth engine that this chassis will see with two of them being flathead six's]
Yes, the 'nominal' 4.250" is the 426 bore size &, in my view, is the right choice for this block. The plus 5 thou is just a cleanup oversize.
Do this engine right, as I'm sure you will, & it will be an awesome stump puller as it was always meant to be.
As my father often said, horsepower sells cars, but torque wins races
For me, my Hemi is the perfect combination of size, both displacement & physical, as well as rarity, & design. Perfect all the way as Dodge was essentially a bunch of perfection driven engineers that designed great engines, & built cars to put them in, while Chev was a bunch of bean counting car makers that cobbled up engines. [Is my bias showing?]
Oh yeah, greetings from Australia.
I’m doing an early 354 Hemi for a friend right now. It’ll be going into a ‘49 Ford business coupe if plans stay the course.
@@MikeFL2TX Love your choice of engine. If I was to use a "Chrysler" Hemi, the 1956 354 engine would be my choice. however my 325 Dodge Hemi works better for me. I was a little disappointed, I must confess, that this beautiful piece of automotive art & history will be buried & hidden away in a late model car such as the shoebox Ford. Never mind, the one who pays the bills is the one calling the shots.
An early Hemi, in my humble view, belongs in something where it's superior design & beauty can be seen by all, such as in something up to about 1936 or so. ['37 to '42 Willys excepted]
I was doing a 351w for him, and came across the 354. It still has a while to go before I’m done with it and he fans it in. He doesn’t drive much, but will frequent car shows and stuff too.
Scanner Danner disciple here 👍
Outstanding Work on that engine block, kid !!!!
your dad (The Cleaning Guy) has taught you extremely well !!!!
You guys are very thorough. Camera or otherwise. Nice job
26:23 is there a name stamped on the sledgehammer? You can tell a difference between American and Chinese because American hammers have a good square face and the Chinese ones are rounded more which makes them slip off what you're striking alot more.
That Z axis safety is certainly a good idea. I wish I had had one when I put a fly cutter a couple millimeters to a cylinder head once. Not ideal for sealing, that.
Here in the SW finding any BB MOPAR is hard so you use any you can find. Like I said in the last video this one really interests me because I have a 413 that I need to rebuild! Just saw you also have rebuilt an odd fire V6 off to watch that one
Greetings: In the early 70’s I bought a Stage III 426 Chrysler engine over the counter at the local Dodge dealer. We purchased a Mickey Thompson .50 stroker kit complete with aluminum pistons And Rods..! Those aluminum rods always gave me some heartburn, but I eventually learned that they would need turbo or supercharging for failure to occur.
Anyways, in my 1972 Cuda it ran 11.70’s right out of the box, as a foot brake car (no special electronics). I found a rare NASCAR single 4 barrel manifold that matched the Stage III heads, and used a 950 Holley carb. with it.
Unfortunately the ‘gas crisis’ was in full steam in the 70’s, and I made numerous trips to the airport for high octane gas.
Keep up the good work..! Jim Dawson
I started swearing when you had your finger on the block at about 35:12ish or so. I lost a fingernail that way on our Berco, lol.
Nice work
Paul is one smart guy, I watch his videos. They are Gold standard for certain areas of diagnosis.
Thank you!
Enjoying this one, Mopar RBs have a soft spot in my heart! A bit of 5d chess required to handle the rust pitting and need to offset a bore and have it all come out nicely. Curious, does the wall thickness with the sleeved cylinders ever pose issues? Is there a rule of thumb for how much you can open up the parent bore when using sleeves? Hope that makes sense, I've never fully understood if the sleeve basically just cancels out the negative effects of the large parent bore/thin wall thickness required to use one.
Doesn't matter what motor it is. I'm fascinated by the technology and precision of the job. You guys explain it so well, like you're holding a clinic...
Impressive machine work. Trust your skills and knowledge ,it will never fail you.
Great video!
Lovely work as always. When you withdraw the tool on the boring mill, are you not worried that the tool scores the bore with the tool not rotating, or is the cutting head so rigid that there is zero spring / deflection in it?
You just answered my cam question about switching to a roller for Paul Danner. Also I know nothing about machining, but I thought those 2 cylinders would get sleeves. Well done.
Love these videos.
Mopar big block!
The other benefits of using a 413. All stock steel crankshafts & there r hundreds of them around. Stay with the steel stock crank. We bored it to4.25 which is stock hemi bore & u have a stock 426 ci. Just some reader information. Thanks for sharing
I haven't heard from Nic about changing the crankshaft yet, so I am assuming we are staying with the stock crank. In his engine tear down and clean up video he mentioned the crank being in good shape
@@1oldironboomer😂 this is out of my wheelhouse!
The transfer case is a part time NP208 but had the NP203 shift knob. After rebuilding the front end, during the initial test drive, I was wondering why 4H was actually 4L lol. So once I found out that it already had the part time transfer case out of an 80s model year, I immediately started looking for a locking hub set up
You cant get 482 cubes with a stock crank, unless you weld and offset grind it. Nobody does that anymore.
Update: Eagle has a forged 4.15" crank for $845, in my 2023 Competition Products catalog!
@@JeffKopisguess that means I have no idea what I'm talking about 😅