I ALMOST Gave Up On My Customer's CAT Exhaust Manifold!
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- What I thought was going to be an easy stud removal & thread repair turned into a nightmare! When the last guy does half the job, it makes it ten times more difficult! We didn't want to let this CAT manifold go to the scrap pile!
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One comment about the counter bore. It actually has a very important function. It increases the free length of the stud which clamps whatever part to that flange (I assume the turbo). More free length means the stud stretches more when torqued. More stretch means more preload remains after the gasket material inevitably settles some ten thousandths of an inch after a few heat cycles. And that makes the connection less likely to leak. The first repair and yours reduces the free length by however deep the counter bore is. I would strongly recommend the customer adds a spacer under the nut that is as thick as the counter bore depth to recoup the lost free length from the repair. If he does that it truly will be as good as new. I am a mechanical engineer for what it’s worth.
Thank you, I was wondering about that.
This is the cleaning guy. Thanks for the explanation. We didn't know the recess was there until after Nicolaus removed the first stud. The top of the recess with the existing stud gave us the illusion that there may be 2 more helicoils installed slightly below flush like the other 2 that protruded. After we found the recess, we discussed between ourselves why the stud was installed in that manner from the factory and assumed it had to do with the longevity of the stud itself. Since we did not have the means at the time to install a repair insert lower in the hole and considering we were fighting the remains of the old studs along with broken easy outs and drill bits in the bottom of the hole, we opted to install the inserts we had up higher eliminating the recess. I'm going to pass your explanation on to our customer. Thanks for the constructive input and advice!
@@JAMSIONLINE happy to help, I really enjoy your work and attention to quality!
Have you ever worked out how many degrees of rotation are needed to attain a specific amount of compression after attaining a snug tight condition in such a joint? It is a lot more accurate than torque, especially when working with gaskets. It let's you ignore variations in K factors, thread deformities, and gets tou the same load on all fasteners regardless of how hard it is or isn't to turn the threaded fastener.
@@gregorydiguido5078that makes complete sense now. Thanks for the explanation.
Im not a machinist, and I didn't sleep at a holiday inn, but I really like this video!!
Thank YOU JAMI!!!
Since you have a ridged machine and setup, try using a 2 flute carbide center cutting end mill at lower RPM and light feed. It will cut taps, easy outs and other hard material out. Good luck.
I'm with you. A milling machine does a much better job of holding a bit side to side. Drill bit is not the best method here.
My father was a machinists and in my youth days he had milled out many of the taps , extractors, drill bits I broke off in various parts, a end mill would be best, I have to agree with you
I was almost yelling at my screen "Use a carbide end mill" ! I always mill a flat on the broken bolt before drilling. I've also had to go full depth with the end mill to hog out a drill or tap. Easy Outs are evil and should be banned. However they too can be milled out with a cobalt end mill.
I agree completely. Standard drill bits are a bad choice for removing broken bolts in this situation. Why? It's simply that they flex too much and the cast iron around the hole will easily be cut away by that wandering drill bit.
Im not a machinist but my dad is, i was thinking the same thing about the end mill (I didn’t know thats what it was called untill i googled it, lol)
You know, I think you and your cleaner are the real machinist! So many shops will make fun of you guys because you don't have several million dollar CNC machines! But you guys try to fix stuff those guys would tell the customer to just junk that old stuff and put in a crate engine! I have a 1949 Studebaker Commander Sedan with its original 245 long stroke 6 with overdrive 3 speed and I would not trade that engine for a 500 hp SBC ever! If I wanted a drag racer I would just buy a Challenger RT Hellcat! I wish I could find a shop to rebuild the Crankshaft its rod bearings have been turned down as small as allowed! But the rest of that engine will out last me! Thank you for your excellent Service to keep old stuff running! You guys are awesome!
My experience of exhaust manifold studs is that you just take your time and warm up the casting and surrounds to a nice red colour. Let it cool right down and repeat. Put a couple of nuts on the stud and give it a good braying on the top of the thread with a big hammer. After that try to get it to move. If it doesn't move repeat the heat and cool and hammer, while you get someone else to get the tooling ready to drill it out. But START with lots of heat.
Cussing at ‘em don’t work but it makes you feel better!
heating the manifold jet hot, then immediately turn out the stud has always worked best for me.
💯
I used to work with an old timer and he would use the torch to liquify the stud while leaving the threads in the manifold in good shape. It was cool to see.
agree. And try pressure clockwise first before turning counter clockwise to remove.
Fun side-note, I've come to learn with a bit of trial and error, that the best way for me to make bolts that see high temps removable later, is to hit it with some copper anti-seize before install. The stuff turns into powder if it gets hot enough. I do have to re-apply after every reinstall though, or I've found out it can still be prone to seizing.
don't use the copper on exhaust fasteners use the nickel anti seize it's rated for higher temperature and is better on stainless
Yup the Nikal / Nickel-ease is the stuff to use on exhaust components it works way better than any of the Copper anti seize products in that application..
But RUclips mechanics say anti seize is evil.... For me it's like Franks Red Hot, I put that sh*t on everything. I'd rather be covered in anti seize glitter than rust dust from trying to get stuck fasteners un stuck.
@@truracer20 The stuff is amazing, the only downside is that it does make some bolts a little bit too easy to remove. The only ones so far though I think, that have given me issues, are the hardware securing the exhaust manifold to the engine.
As much as you hated doing this work, we greatly appreciated the video!!! Excellent and detail oriented work.
The factory studs on those manifolds are a taper lock. One end of them have an X stamped into them to dictate that end goes out. The other side has a taper at the very end. Many times I've seen them installed backwards and the side with the X will mushroom out when it hits the taper in the bottom of the manifold. The next time they get pulled out, they chew up the other threads on the way out. The studs actually call out for a torque spec on install (21' lbs i think). The manifolds are also available separately in 3 pieces. Just heat the slip joint and it'll either fall apart or need just a little persuasion.
I noted the recessed threads. Does the assembly rely on the length of the stud to maintain clamping force? The stud now has a reduced effective length from putting the Big Serts where they are, with threads going to the mating surface.
@@1djbecker i don't believe so. My only basis for that is that I've never seen one pulled out, but always broken close to flush with the head. It was always such a lousy job to do on international 8600's or Freightliner m2's. No room to work.
As a tip , Induction heaters are also a cleaner and easier way of removing broken bolts . Can't believe I was the first like as well . Love from Australia ...
What does an induction heater set up look like on a broken bolt or stud like the video showed for example just curious thank you.
Yes. I would have put an induction heater on the two studs still in the casting. I realize they get bigger when hot, but still breaks the rust loose.
I really love watching you guys, as I learn an awful lot from every single episode! Even though I got nothing to do with machine shops, for me it's mainly the right approach to problems and the attitude that brings me forward. Thank's a lot for teaching us viewers! Greets from Germany!
A spark eroder is great for removing broken drill bits etc.
We used to have one @ an engineering company I ran. Basically a copper tube through which you pumped coolant, attached to a power supply and mounted in drill press (or in our case a radial arm drill)
Agree, no risk of further damage.
Honest self reflection on RUclips? Love it! Thanks for being so genuine
Have you ever tried plunging with a center cutting carbide end mill? This would also be a good job for a disintegrator.
Kroil then wait then more Kroil, homemade Kerosene and Tranny fluid is an excellent rust buster but you have to allow time for any of these products, good luck 👍
Left-hand twist drills work pretty well.
Just wanted to pop by and say I got my mousepad today! Took a while getting it shipped all the way to Norway, got it just after I got my mechanics degree/certification! Love the design! Love the YT channel! Thanks for the entertainment and education, guys! Keep it up!
I actually work in a foundry (probably the one that made that exact casting) and we make manifolds almost exactly like that. It's insane the amount of physical abuse those ductile castings can take. We literally toss them fifteen feet into a metal bin and it does absolutely nothing to them. It honestly amazes me sometimes what they can take.
I'm sure the aircraft industry loves to hear that😮
@@tcmits3699 XD. Never seen an aircraft company in the computer. Ford is the closest thing to an aircraft that we make parts for. Ford Racing M-4033-F975 in case your interested.) but aside from that, it's mostly heavy duty equipment like CAT, John Deere, Eaton. And the occasional engineering company that needs something that will likely outlive you. Literally.
It's for a truck, there, Bunkey.
Nice repair guys.
Always difficult to repair something that someone else messed up in the first place.
You did great.
Have a good day.
the best penetrating oil i have ever used was a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF. they don't mix, and have a tendency to separate like salad dressing, so you have to shake it up before each use. i hit it with that, then wait 20 minutes. most of the time it will come right out, if not, then i heat it and reapply the acetone/ATF mixture and try again. not sure why it work, but it work better than anything else i have ever used. i was shone that trick by an old cleaning guy and i have used it ever since.
Does it work better than Kroil (formerly named Aerokroil) that stuff is the best penetrating oil I've ever used.
I love the little video clips you throw in there, hilarious 😂
Awesome video! Shows people what it's really like to deal with stuck and broken studs. I often find I have to drill a broken fastener as close to full size as possible and break or peel out the remnants with a tap. Glad to see a pro using the same methods.
Peal out- Never do what he did and just try to get a tap to pick p in the right place- He even said it did not feel right.- Because it was crossed.
@@mathewmolk2089 Meh I've had solid success. When there's not much left of a corroded fastener it tends to crumble and/or finally rotate and come out.
If you get a masonry drill bit with a tungsten tip & re-sharpen its tip to a high speed steel drill bit profile they will drill through just about anything including drill bits & taps.
yes I worked on something (don’t recall what it was) where the previous guy had work hardened the broken stud. A regular HSS bit couldn’t scratch it. So I bought a small mason army bit and cut through the stud like it was butter!
Another trick for your tool box. Take a can of air. Key board duster. Turn it upside down and you’ll get some very cold almost liquid air to come out and you can rapidly cool the stud while the housing is smoking hot. Just like everything it doesn’t work every time but sometimes it’s awesome.
Just water in a spray bottle is a millwright favorite, but I see the extra cold of the air can working even better
I had a nitrided crank checked out by a shop, for balancing, journal polishing, and to tap for threaded oil gallery plugs instead of factory aluminum peened plugs.
The crank came back to me with the threaded plugs already installed and loctited in place, when I certainly didn't ask for that. Took them out, and, of course, they left a broken-off tap in one of the holes....
Buy a induction heater. Works great when you have other heat sensitive parts on the vehicle. Heat cycle a few times. Red hot, then cold water, lubricant of choice. I believe your repairs will last the life of that engine. Love your channel.
One tip that has helped me is to get a slide handle breaker bar to use on it. Put it in the middle so that you are pushing and pulling on both sides. This way you are not pushing sideways on the stud or bolt. Similar to a tap wrench.
That was absolutely a great proper job.
Yes I used to take stuff like this and use a fine thread bolt and use that as a oversized type of plug, then I would just throw it out and for the right size stud or bolt. That was before they came out with all this fancy stuff. Works great with green sleeve compound.
The heat of manifolds and turbochargers (especially if waste oil or ATF has been added to the fuel) tends to harden carbon steel studs, but primarily, the heat promotes corrosion, which removes iron (in the form of rust - Fe2O3, I think...) and leaves carbon - very brittle - which is one reason they break, and almost un-drillable. I think that's a word...
I've been there behind the last person many times. At least you have lots of awesome equipment to help you repair those type of things! Thanks!
Get yourself one of those handheld induction heaters. They allow you to heat cycle the stud very quickly. Heat, penetrant, heat, penetrant... do that a few times; then grab the stud with vise grips, heat the manifold and twist out the stud.
My ritual: use induction heater to get the stud red hot, let it cool down for 15min. whack it with a hammer, weld a nut on, use impact driver back and forth until it starts to move
Lots better to use cold water instead of oil
Lots better to use cold water instead of oil
Love the videos. Thanks!
Nice repair, I'm a solid insert kind of guy, I have installed many helicoils in chainsaws but prefer the solid inserts if there is room.
When dealing with broke exhaust studs I skip the drill bit and go straight to the carbide end mill. Great salvage job Fellas!
I always had great luck heating the manifold up red hot and blasting it with cold water. Most often that does the trick of breaking it free. I never try try to move a heat-softened bolt.
That is what I learned in a shipyard. Steam is a beast!
Like you already said, the last guy may have been doing it out in the field with hand tools....Sometimes you do stuff like that, and the customer says "It's just until we finish this job, then we'll have it fixed right...but that day never comes...
I like watching this type of work. Talking bad about someone you don't know is not right. We don't know the circumstance of the previous work.
Geezz what a nightmare! Glad you saved the day.
Here is a trick for broken bolts and screws: Start drilling and keep drilling the bolts remnants out only using LEFT HANDED DRILL BITS. I have had lots of bolts and screws catch on the bit's flutes and back out that way. If you are a fraction of a smidge off center the remnants of the bolt collapse and the it catches on the bit and it comes out, and you can use the original threads. One of the local shops had a little old Vietnamese guy who burned out broken bolts with a tungsten rod. He had a very special gift for doing that.
And a old-timer came in our shop one time seeing us trying to pull out some bolts, he said go down and get some paraffin wax, it works better than knock her loose or WD-40 we tried it it was a miracle.
Been there done that. I've done hundreds of them. Now I can sit back and watch you guys do them. Isn't retirement great? NO!!! My doctor said that I am not allowed in my shop anymore. Grrrr!!!
Lovely work, solved it very well.
thank you guys for taking the time and effort to document a dying talent and profession
One thing you might consider are drill bushings. We use them all the time in aviation. You can center your drill bit quite well. Just another tool in your tool box.
Of course broken drill bits and easy outs are another thing . Good luck....
I love the logic and knowledge thrown down by Dad
i made my own "shake and break" (search "shake and break tool" if you're not familiar) style tool , but with 1/2 square on end for driving sockets . i'm thinking that after nut is welded to stud , the downward impacts of air hammer/shake and break attachment , combined with being able feel how much torque you're applying with other hand would work a little better . haven't tried it on studs yet , but judging by how well these work on screws (amazing) , i believe it'll work pretty well . for using on bolts , you'd need to make spacers for inside of sockets , or grind down sockets , so that impacts are striking top of head of bolt .
Great job saving the manifold and yes if the if the rust busting creeping oil doesn't work good old wax will penetrate with no problem....great content.
It looks when the “cleaning guy” one day decides to retire, the shop will be in good hands.
I liked it when he mentioned using Time-Serts for the repair. I won't use anything else unless there is no other choice
If you got a lathe you are a fool to use timeserts. - And just threaded rod can do the very same job if you are going to drill it anyway. - Think abuot it.
17:35 I had to repair a French horn rotor valve in the mill. Someone had broken w retaining screw off inside, and then just drilled the hole larger making it useless and then soldered the screw in.
When I went to drill out the old damage for an insert, I got about .075" in and the spindle I was drilling suddenly exploded, shattering out the side.
The previous guy had left a roughly #53 drill bit inside, and when my #47 drill bit made contact it caught and just blew out the side.
At that point, I called my supplier and luckily they had the VERY LAST rotor available for sale ever. Now the part is obsolete, and the French horn has a new rotor.
Over the years of taking out cat exhaust studs the ends are tapered and when the drill bit removes the stud, the very end seams to stay in the bottom of the hole, and people tend to not take it out. Had to take and dig out that little end peace to be able to tap to the bottom of the hole. Cat also had a great tool kit for broken stud removal.
We use carbide ball end mills or radius mills to take out broken taps, and other hardened items. Even then you have to lose a lot of oil and go slow. I’ve put in tons of helicoils over the years and even though they work I’m not really a fan. They have Issues built into them that, if you’re not careful during installation causes issues. The main ones I’ve seen are tangs that do not break off, but bend down in the way, and if they do break off sometime the very last thread that was connected to the tang pops out of the groove, that it was supposed to be in and moves down to the next groove. When either of these things happen, the bolt that is screwed into the hole, begins to interfere with the helicoil at the bottom of the hole which chews the bolt up. when you go to remove the bold, it sucks the heli coil insert out with it. I’ve used them in aluminum Mazda, heads to hold the camshaft bearing blocks into place without issue in the past. But if at all possible, I prefer keenserts. they use standard tap sizes so that you don’t have to have special helicoil taps, and they install with regular bolts. Even if you don’t have the installation tool to drive the tangs down it can still be done if you’re careful.
Been there, done this laying on my back under a tractor. Previous guy had begun drilling off-center, and then broke off the bit. After ruining a half a dozen bits, I finally got the remainder of the bolt out.
use a carbide masonry bit. I just did it to drill through a broken rethreader. worked like a charm
Have you ever used Kroil with graphite? It is made for high temp lubrication and is perfect for these type of removals where heating is necessary!
My usual order of operations is: hammer, heat, penetrant. If you heat the metal it becomes softer, which absorbs some of the energy of the hammer blows. And if you heat it then allow it to cool with the penetrant on it, it will tend to draw the penetrant into the thread. Wait until the metal is cool enough to keep from boiling/burning off the oil, then keep it wet until it's cool to the touch. I find this to be very effective.
Albright chucks are great chucks. I have two of them but I never use them for tapping. Reversing is pretty much an automatic release of the tap.
Been there, done that.
Unfortunately people who own a drill think they know how to drill out bolts and studs, wrong! Then when they give up they leave a terrible mess for the pro to fix, making a simple job a right P. I.T. A!
Absolutely. But in cast iron it is not that bad, actually, because you can torch out all the high carbon crap like easy outs, taps and drills without harming the cast iron. It takes guts and a lot of experience, though. Carbide bits in the Bridgeport work, too. But once you get the hang of torching, it is the way to go.
When you add oil right after the heat, you are quenching the metal and making it much harder to drill.
When you heat the manifold, it is compressing around the stud which heats much slower because the rust slows heat transfer. Heating the stud to cherry, and letting it cool a tiny bit allows the heat to sink into the casting (which retains the heat due to mass), and the stud will shrink.
A solid carbide center cutting mill is best for removing old junk, I recommend a a rough cut roughing mill so the bits of drill/extractor that break free have more room to wiggle without chipping the mill.
Lastly, time is money, if you are putting in 2 inserts, just go for all 4 and get it done. You would have saved a ton of time just breaking the 2 good studs off and drilling them exactly like you did from the get go.
Hi there I'm an electrician and I keep telling the young guys to think about the next guy who will attend the job but they mostly only think about now, it sad but satisfying when they have to go back and do something and have to ring me for advice. I do help but remind them
To protect the surface of cast iron or cast aluminum, you can use a brass adapter (homemade) as a pneumatic hammer attachment. 😉
Best I've found On the cat taper lock studs is heat stud cherry red weld a nut let cool use my weak 3/8 impact once it moves spray with penetrant. If you get real tuff one after stud has shrunk then heat manifold or head....
Removing broken studs is one of my pet hates. Easy outs are really hard outs, the like to break off and make the job 10 times harder.
I find left hand drill bits useful (usually hand butchered from a normal bit. With heat, penetrating oil and the dodgy bit the threads usually come out. Sometimes I can save the original thread.
In our workshop we had a spark eroder, used for removing many a broken tap
I'm a former Turbo Technician - For broken studs, bolts & whatever, here's my 2c worth.
Get a carbide masonry drill, sharpen it up like a 135' twist drill and use that to drill out the remaining material.
If it's a broken drill bit, use a centre cutting carbide end mill to work your way through.
If you manage to break the carbide, find your local toolmaker and ask about spark eroding or EDM to remove the material.
I fought broken turbo mount bolts on a Mack that were some special hardened steel. I used a carbide concrete bit to get a through hole and several hours with a carbide burr to get to where I could chase it with a tap. Some days a guy just wants to sit in the corner and cry
My first thought on the loose HeliCoil inserts was that they're basically springs after all, and maybe the exhaust temperatures made them loose their springiness
Pleasure as always to watch your videos 👍thanks for the upload
Back in my diesel mechanic days, whenever I broke a bolt, tap, easy-out, or stud off in a cast iron block or manifold, I would use a cutting torch to remove them. Heat the object to be removed to white hot, hit the cutting oxygen, no more problem.
Nicely saved! Thanks, it was interesting and informative.
Based on my experience, it is better to heat it more than enough than "just enough" or "not enough." I would have heated those corners to a dull-red before trying to reverse that first stud out of there. In fact, I would have heated that whole side until it was dull-red. My standard is to be able to see the dull-red with the naked eye. Not bright-red either. I use the heat to melt the rust and create expansion. Seconds sometimes count. After a few cycles of dull-red, I immediately get on the stud and work on it. The oil is good, the wax is good. I will continue watching for the rest of the video. Ok, the thread inserts are good! That is a good solution. If someone tried unsuccessfully to drill a bolt out, I expect it to be work hardened. Thats a pain. I try to grind a little off an area and then attempt to drill it again. Broken drill bits will sometimes let you use a pick and loosen them up. Sometimes tap on them with a punch. The situation is fluid. I have gone too fast many a times. I try to wait until I am in the right mood. Sometimes it is better I just stay away from stuff like this. Ha! I enjoy your videos.
I think the recessed threads are to prevent the machined surface from distorting around each stud after the nuts are torqued to spec. Better flange seal and longevity.
Yeah! Yeah! Yeah! Fire! Fire! Fire! Sorry, I just couldn't resist. Had a flashback to the Beavis days.
there is a thread locking compound called Rocksett that is ceramic based compound that is designed for high heat applications.
Never had a cat exhaust bolt play nice without making the stud cherry red for extraction
Cleaning guy saying “what was that ??” At the sound of a small metal object flying across the shop. Been there too many times 😂😂😂
I've always had a knack for drilling out bolts. My boss would have me go at it and I only broke 1 bit. Don't worry, I did get it out and was able to re-use the hole. I did break a few easy outs though and yes that was harder to deal with.
3:59 I'm a true believer that wax "goes to heat" oil "runs from heat"
I’m the guy in the shop who ends up doing all the broken billy stuff. I’m gonna try the candle wax trick. One trick you can try is taking the air hammer and penning the top of the studs if possible. Wish you could of did on the one stubborn stud. I had one give me so much trouble and once I did that it popped right out, would’ve liked to know if it was that or the welder, I did turn up the heat, but seemed to be getting good wells before on the nuts I was welding on. Idk.
Man, I am learning so much, and I really appreciate the knowledge you and your viewers have. 3 questions: what was the contraption that you used at the beginning of the video that looked like a socket that was able to grab a hold of the stud bolt? What are the best drill bits for drilling out material like broken off drill bits / easy outs (I'm assuming drill bits that are made of even harder material)? What are the best taps for trying to clean out threads that have bolt material still left in them after the majority of the bolt has been drilled out? If anyone can point me to specific makes / models I would be super thankful. Keep the videos coming!
Nice work! Heat cycle hardened bolts are the devil
We have had excellent results using cold mixed with heat, you can heat up both but ostensibly you would heat the manifold and chill the stud with a chiller like CRC Freeze Spray #14086. Remember, cold shrinks and heat expands the metals. If a stud could be welded to; weld a wide piece to it that you can turn with a wrench. The weld process gets it hot enough to change it's molecular relation to the rust and binds it ...then use the freeze spray on the wide piece you welded to it; use plenty, it will act as a heat sink and cold draws the heat from the bolt, thru the weld and into the welded piece, the stud gets cold. So, the stud expanded from applied heat and that makes it tighter but also changes the rust relationship and when you freeze the eff out of it you shrink it. Bon appetit!
They make drill bit guides to center a drill bit. Steel cylinder with a hole through it. Various inner and outer diameters. I think Grainger has them.
You are fine.
I sometimes have to this but not with a nice drill press at hand .
A vice and work bench & shop light. Lol
Good job
I have to admit I was cringing everytime I saw the tap jump out of the chuck! Many years ago this piece would have been taken to the EDM machine and removed instead of drilling! There are many that don't know or remember EDM. The advances in the field are truly remarkable!
An EDM machine has saved me Thousands in new cylinder heads motor cycle parts are f'n expensive.
Still today, They even have a ChiCom tap disintegrater that runs on 120 volts and can be taken into the field. Easy as hell to use too and it's fully automatic once yo start it.
5:27 LOL at the wax. Already wasted oil on it. Heat and shock are all you need.
Serves you right for rushing it and not using more heat. You also let the flame spill over onto the stud. Heat the metal cool the stud.
Use heat to remove the 2 studs i usually heat the studs cherry red, to break rust loose, let cool, and remove
You need to get the area around studs cherry red and don't let it cool off then the stud would turn right out. Living in the rust belt where they love to dump tons of salt on the roads the smoke wrench is our best friend and deal with bolts like this daily.
I've have luck a couple times drilling a small hole from the side to get oil to the threads a long with heating, I had to do that to get an AC compressor free from a plow truck where the shank of the bolt was seized to the hole through the compressor body. In that case the hole I drilled wasn't small as the compressor was bad and didn't have a core charge.
CAT oem thread repair kits are the only way to go!
That is something that always REALLY bothered me working in the repair trade, the other guys that routinely did and joked about leaving the problem, big problems like that for the next guy. "F the next guy", they would say, laughing and yukking it up. Even more, the same guys would say, "AMC, ain't my car". The boss wouldn't hear it, and the only relief was distance and never touch their work. Sucked, but it is what it is. Another black eye on the trade...
I just ran into the same thing on a dozer with a broken drill bit that was at an angle in the hole also a broken tap that was also at an angle. I also had to do the same thing you did and repair all 4 holes. What a mess.
I broke a tap off deep in the hole. I drilled it out by filling the hole with valve grinding paste diluted with cutting oil. Then chucked a piece of copper tube in a drill press set to warp speed….. I couldn’t believe how fast I was able to cut the center out of the tap.
Keen-Serts....in a variety of materials,usually stainless steel if gaulding is NOT an issue....they are solid sleeves with internal and external thread,Machining required,Carbide will usually cut any meatal less than 60 rocwell harness,i would also resurface the mounting face.Heat will warp areas it radiates to,great for breaking rust,terrible for FLAT mounting surfaces.
instead of pining the side you should heat and hammered in like a nai,l then it should come out . some times its luck .Keep up with the good work guys , say hello to the cleaning guy ..
It probably won't work for this but left hand drills can often remove broken bolts. Carbide drills will cut out broken easy outs.
I keep my tap and dies, and the subsequent repair kits at home. That way when I’m beep boppin along and something goes south, I can just cuss at it and walk away from that particular job. At least until the next day lol
Spent as much on repair as a new manifold. Sweet!